It's a little late now, but they announced a newer updated version that will now take 50voc from the panels instead of the 25voc. Hopefully they sorted the PV/Alternator charge switching issues as well that was violently reducing charge current.
The system limits alternator current input to 25 amps to protect the Alternator.. Unless you like buying new Alternators every 6 months. As most factory alternators only produce 110 amp at full load. Which gets them screening ass hot.. While they run everything else to keep the vehicle running. And yes both the new ones are 50 volt now for solar panels. which allows Series connections. But I doubt anybody is going to stuff 800 watts on a Van. Unless they start laying them out on the ground..
Good video 👍. You can never have to much battery or solar panels. That's a nice clean install. My panels are rated for 150 volts but I have seen them at 157 volts. I don't remember the specs Now on the whole system. It's been a year so I will be looking through my paperwork tomorrow to see what the specs are. I seldom use the dc to dc charger. 👍
Great Video, I purchased this controller (60 AMP essentially the same) for my boat and am OK with it. I use it to keep 400 AH lithium batteries charged, monitor with the BT2. My energy consumers use relatively low amperage except for the 12 volt fridge and that is somewhat low. My only issue is the Load terminals, they do not output voltage they are in the off mode all the time. It seems like the design is to output voltage when the panels are not powered (night), this makes no sense to me, unless you are simply using it for a timer after the panels stop producing. I thought the purpose of load is to use surplus energy when the batteries are topped off, that would be a great idea since the solar panels would not have any use for the solar energy after the batteries are at 100%+.
The load terminals are there to provide up to 20 amps of SWITCHABLE power for lights, fans, or whatever you want to power up. You use the BT-2 to switch on or off the load terminals with your cell phone. I have 4 different Rovers of 30, 40, and 60 amp. One turns on my workshop 12 volt light fixtures, another turns on a 12 volt fan directed at some electronics for when the area gets high ambient temperature. But my favorite one turns on a 12 volt ceiling fixture in my camper van so Ma can get her meds in the middle of the night without having to stumble around and find the switch.
Use a voltage reducer. My solar panels were 30 volt. The reducer made the output 24 volt. I bought the Bluetooth to see what the dc-dc charger/mppt is doing. Everything works great.
@@phillipcocks4794 ANMBEST Constant Current CC CV Buck Converter Module DC 6-40V to 1.2-36V 20A 300W Adjustable Step Down Voltage Regulator Power Supply Module with Short Circuit Protection Function from Amazon. There are several like this but this is the one I chose. Used 2 in parallel so they would handle 40 amps. Working great.
The Epever Tracers have a setting for lithium and also an Android App for lithium. It's possible that yours didn't output current because it was on the wrong battery setting and saw the battery as fully charged.
Yeah I saw that. I like to avoid being on my phone. I like to have a nice visual in the van. There is s monitor you can add but like I said it's an additional $50. As far as the panels go I have one 300 watt panel that is rated for 36V so it's just to strong for the unit. A 25V PC input is pretty disappointing for such an expensive unit.
Yeah but then you are paying for the MPPT as well. I just got a Renogy DC to DC charger instead with the rover this solved my problem. required more wiring but works as advertised.
I'm not sure how your meter works for your batteries, but I had to put in a shunt between the neg bus bar and the neg battery terminal. Then it worked great.
@@Vankookz Question - did you run a neg battery cable to the neg bus bar at the back from the starting battery or did you ground your system at the front to the chassis. I ran the cable, but was told later as long as my bus bar was grounded to the frame as well as the coach battery that was ok too. I believe my front was already grounded to the frame through the starter neg and onto the frame Don't know for sure. That was the early days of my diy wiring.
If anyone is setting up a system and want to use dcc50 that didnt work for him, use 2-160 watt 12 volt solar panels max. 2-150 watt, or 3-100 watt would work well, also.
Hey Matt! It's been awhile. Thanks dude! Also we see you are doing pretty well with your one man band. Lots of gigs! Way to go! We are very impressed with your skills.
The 25 volt limit for solar panel input is a really bad design. I have 400 watts in panels on my van that are in series and produce about 90 volts open circuit. The 40 amp Renogy Rover MPPT is limited to 100 volt solar input. This works very well and will charge the 300AH Chins battery very well even under cloudy skies. I may eventually put in my old DC-DC 30 amp Renogy unit in the van but it hasn't been needed so far. The new DC-DC unit with MPPT sits on the shelf unused for now. It was a disappointment and I would not have purchased it knowing that it can't take more than 25 solar volt input.
I have the same setup, but Renogy tech support has said not to run 2 charging inputs at the same time (ie alternator+solar). Have you had any issues - I suspect maybe some funkiness as the battery bank reaches 90-95% SOC and the current should be tapering?
You know what... for a while I wasn't but a of recently I had to unplug my change controller because it was turning off due to over voltage disconnect. Maybe this is the problem here. 🤔
@@Vankookz Thanks ... They did say that it might result in one of the sources "shutting down". I don't have the panels up yet so no actual experience to share. I have a manual switch on the dcdc charger, for times I don't want to tax the alternator, and/or prioritize solar.
Hey guys thanks for another great video! I'm not sure what kind of fan you have in your van, but in researching my build I went with a Max Air fan but have noticed in reviews that if it receives voltage over 13.6 the circuit board can fry out and start getting blinking green lights and not working. Have you noticed any issue since switching over to Lithium batteries because the voltage can reach up to 14.6 while it is being charged from the solar panels? If so there is a good video on how to install a Buck Converter to control the voltage the fan receives so this will not happen.
A Rich Solar is the same units as the Renogy Rovers etc but cheaper. HQST seems to have a new 40a unit with built in Bluetooth for VERY good prices The Renogy/Rich Solar use presets for all but User. That's the only values that can be custom set. Really should be for your Lithium
Hi, you've wired up those batteries incorrectly, with parallel battery configurations you should take the +ve feed from one battery and the -ve feed from the other battery. You will end up with unbalanced batteries when taking the feeds from the same battery.
@@Vankookz No, you connect the batteries together as you have, +ve to +ve and -ve to -ve i.e. in parallel. But you connect the battery "array" to your external systems as I describe i.e. you connect your external +ve busbar to the +ve terminal on one end of the battery array but you connect your external -ve busbar to the -ve terminal on the other battery. This equalises the voltage drop over the battery array and gives you a balanced system.
Volts has nothing to do with it. Unless you're building a huge Solar Array.. As the MPPT DC-DC charger is meant for an RV with less then 4 panels. So you buy the 12volt Solar Panels.
Not understanding why you went with a dc2dc charger for a solar panel.kkk Dc2dc is designed for basically alternators. I have the rover 40 with 600 watts of solar. Check-out my videos. Nice clean setup You got. I've gained a liking for SOK batteries.
@@Vankookz I never would have thought it to be for solar as well. Technically if panels were under 25v and in parallel then this would've worked. Very neat!
If you want this technology that's what you're going to pay at the moment. Luckily prices keep going down and the tech gets exponentially better every year
It's a little late now, but they announced a newer updated version that will now take 50voc from the panels instead of the 25voc. Hopefully they sorted the PV/Alternator charge switching issues as well that was violently reducing charge current.
That’s awesome
I just bought one and the label on it says max 50 volt solar input.
The system limits alternator current input to 25 amps to protect the Alternator.. Unless you like buying new Alternators every 6 months. As most factory alternators only produce 110 amp at full load. Which gets them screening ass hot.. While they run everything else to keep the vehicle running.
And yes both the new ones are 50 volt now for solar panels. which allows Series connections. But I doubt anybody is going to stuff 800 watts on a Van. Unless they start laying them out on the ground..
Good video 👍.
You can never have to much battery or solar panels.
That's a nice clean install.
My panels are rated for 150 volts but I have seen them at 157 volts.
I don't remember the specs Now on the whole system.
It's been a year so I will be looking through my paperwork tomorrow to see what the specs are.
I seldom use the dc to dc charger.
👍
True! We may need more panels. 😆 🤣 😂 yeah we never used our old batty Isolator set up. We are excited to have some new batteries.
Great Video, I purchased this controller (60 AMP essentially the same) for my boat and am OK with it. I use it to keep 400 AH lithium batteries charged, monitor with the BT2. My energy consumers use relatively low amperage except for the 12 volt fridge and that is somewhat low. My only issue is the Load terminals, they do not output voltage they are in the off mode all the time. It seems like the design is to output voltage when the panels are not powered (night), this makes no sense to me, unless you are simply using it for a timer after the panels stop producing. I thought the purpose of load is to use surplus energy when the batteries are topped off, that would be a great idea since the solar panels would not have any use for the solar energy after the batteries are at 100%+.
The load terminals are there to provide up to 20 amps of SWITCHABLE power for lights, fans, or whatever you want to power up. You use the BT-2 to switch on or off the load terminals with your cell phone. I have 4 different Rovers of 30, 40, and 60 amp. One turns on my workshop 12 volt light fixtures, another turns on a 12 volt fan directed at some electronics for when the area gets high ambient temperature. But my favorite one turns on a 12 volt ceiling fixture in my camper van so Ma can get her meds in the middle of the night without having to stumble around and find the switch.
Use a voltage reducer. My solar panels were 30 volt. The reducer made the output 24 volt. I bought the Bluetooth to see what the dc-dc charger/mppt is doing. Everything works great.
Thanks, Rush. This is why I make these videos that's pretty cool I didn't even know that was a thing. I wish I still had the unit.
Can you recommend which voltage reducer you used? And could you just use the other epever mppt to do the same thing. Turn the extra volts into amps
@@phillipcocks4794 ANMBEST Constant Current CC CV Buck Converter Module DC 6-40V to 1.2-36V 20A 300W Adjustable Step Down Voltage Regulator Power Supply Module with Short Circuit Protection Function from Amazon. There are several like this but this is the one I chose. Used 2 in parallel so they would handle 40 amps. Working great.
The Epever Tracers have a setting for lithium and also an Android App for lithium. It's possible that yours didn't output current because it was on the wrong battery setting and saw the battery as fully charged.
I know this one has a user setting. It is an older unit maybe 4 years old so I don't think it did yet.
I don’t know what wattage your panels are but if you hook them up in parallel, you can keep the voltage below 25 V.
Yeah very true I have a 32V 350W single panel.
That dcdc charger has a Bluetooth module and a very cool app. One has to wire the solar panels in parallel up to 600W
Yeah I saw that. I like to avoid being on my phone. I like to have a nice visual in the van. There is s monitor you can add but like I said it's an additional $50. As far as the panels go I have one 300 watt panel that is rated for 36V so it's just to strong for the unit. A 25V PC input is pretty disappointing for such an expensive unit.
You should still be able to use the DC to DC aspect right? Just not the Solar input?
Yeah but then you are paying for the MPPT as well. I just got a Renogy DC to DC charger instead with the rover this solved my problem. required more wiring but works as advertised.
I'm not sure how your meter works for your batteries, but I had to put in a shunt between the neg bus bar and the neg battery terminal. Then it worked great.
Yeah, I just recently added a shunt. It definitely helped
@@Vankookz Question - did you run a neg battery cable to the neg bus bar at the back from the starting battery or did you ground your system at the front to the chassis. I ran the cable, but was told later as long as my bus bar was grounded to the frame as well as the coach battery that was ok too. I believe my front was already grounded to the frame through the starter neg and onto the frame Don't know for sure. That was the early days of my diy wiring.
Nice solar setup, Greetings from Jamaica.
Awesome! Thanks 🙏
If anyone is setting up a system and want to use dcc50 that didnt work for him, use 2-160 watt 12 volt solar panels max. 2-150 watt, or 3-100 watt would work well, also.
Great video. You're gonna love having lithium batteries.
Hey Matt! It's been awhile. Thanks dude! Also we see you are doing pretty well with your one man band. Lots of gigs! Way to go! We are very impressed with your skills.
The 25 volt limit for solar panel input is a really bad design. I have 400 watts in panels on my van that are in series and produce about 90 volts open circuit. The 40 amp Renogy Rover MPPT is limited to 100 volt solar input. This works very well and will charge the 300AH Chins battery very well even under cloudy skies. I may eventually put in my old DC-DC 30 amp Renogy unit in the van but it hasn't been needed so far. The new DC-DC unit with MPPT sits on the shelf unused for now. It was a disappointment and I would not have purchased it knowing that it can't take more than 25 solar volt input.
Yeah it’s a real limitation I sent mine back
"Happiness is an Inside Job," Sounds like a Kooky Conspiracy Theory!
Haha! Conspiracy Kookz... Dropping truth bombs one video at a time.
Great presentation. Vern, Australia.
Thanks Vern! I spent a year in Australia and loved it!
Nice vid and welcome to the wonder world of Lifo batteries (my wonder twins) Van Kookz😁😁❗
Herman! We've missed you. How are you doing? Yeah we are excited to finally upgrade this system. 🙌
@@Vankookz awwhhh I miss you guys too. I am doing fine thank you for asking😉
I have the same setup, but Renogy tech support has said not to run 2 charging inputs at the same time (ie alternator+solar). Have you had any issues - I suspect maybe some funkiness as the battery bank reaches 90-95% SOC and the current should be tapering?
You know what... for a while I wasn't but a of recently I had to unplug my change controller because it was turning off due to over voltage disconnect. Maybe this is the problem here. 🤔
@@Vankookz Thanks ... They did say that it might result in one of the sources "shutting down". I don't have the panels up yet so no actual experience to share. I have a manual switch on the dcdc charger, for times I don't want to tax the alternator, and/or prioritize solar.
Hey guys thanks for another great video! I'm not sure what kind of fan you have in your van, but in researching my build I went with a Max Air fan but have noticed in reviews that if it receives voltage over 13.6 the circuit board can fry out and start getting blinking green lights and not working. Have you noticed any issue since switching over to Lithium batteries because the voltage can reach up to 14.6 while it is being charged from the solar panels? If so there is a good video on how to install a Buck Converter to control the voltage the fan receives so this will not happen.
I've never had this problem. I also don't have a Maxx air fan.
Just parallel the panels & the solar should work with the MPPT
The problem is that that solar panel is one 350 Watt panel @ 32V
@@Vankookz ah damn. Forget about my comment then
A Rich Solar is the same units as the Renogy Rovers etc but cheaper. HQST seems to have a new 40a unit with built in Bluetooth for VERY good prices
The Renogy/Rich Solar use presets for all but User. That's the only values that can be custom set. Really should be for your Lithium
Ok I did not know this. Thanks for the great information. On the next project I will look into this.
Hi, you've wired up those batteries incorrectly, with parallel battery configurations you should take the +ve feed from one battery and the -ve feed from the other battery. You will end up with unbalanced batteries when taking the feeds from the same battery.
What you are explain is how you wire in series not parallel. You will double your volts not your ah
@@Vankookz No, you connect the batteries together as you have, +ve to +ve and -ve to -ve i.e. in parallel. But you connect the battery "array" to your external systems as I describe i.e. you connect your external +ve busbar to the +ve terminal on one end of the battery array but you connect your external -ve busbar to the -ve terminal on the other battery. This equalises the voltage drop over the battery array and gives you a balanced system.
Did you go in the settings and hit the powerlifting option? Usually stuff like that will work, but only if you power lift it.
This unit only accepts 25V max. To my knowledge there is no powerlifting option. Honestly not a lot of options on this particular unit.
Volts has nothing to do with it. Unless you're building a huge Solar Array.. As the MPPT DC-DC charger is meant for an RV with less then 4 panels. So you buy the 12volt Solar Panels.
Renogy definitely has some better products currently
Yes they do. The new DC to DC MPPT look pretty slick!
Not understanding why you went with a dc2dc charger for a solar panel.kkk Dc2dc is designed for basically alternators. I have the rover 40 with 600 watts of solar. Check-out my videos. Nice clean setup You got. I've gained a liking for SOK batteries.
It's a DC to DC charger with a built in MPPT all in one unit. It's pretty cool
@@Vankookz I never would have thought it to be for solar as well. Technically if panels were under 25v and in parallel then this would've worked. Very neat!
Um…. Change the panels to parallel 🤦🏻
I have a single 350W panel that’s 35 volts
A thousand dollars for any 12v battery is fking outrageous
If you want this technology that's what you're going to pay at the moment. Luckily prices keep going down and the tech gets exponentially better every year
Thanks for the shout out Kooks ✌🏻🫶🏻
Yeah dude! Thanks for helping me figure that out. I was stumped until you showed me that.
@@Vankookz You can Count on me anytime