Are my arborvitaes dying? Signs of over watering, under watering, and transplant shock.
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- Опубліковано 28 чер 2024
- I wanted to give a status update on how my recently planted arborvitaes are doing so far, and give you all signs to watch out for when planting your own arborvitaes. Identifying if arborvitaes are over watered or under watered can be tough since both can appear the same on an arborvitae. Hopefully some of my own trees can help you to identify what's going on with your recently planted arborvitaes as well.
Soil Moisture Meter (Helps to identify over or under watering as well)
amzn.to/3RsTb8T
Green giant arborvitae, thuja, emerald green - Навчання та стиль
With how difficult it is to care for a tree, it amazes me that every forest is filled with millions of them just surviving on their own.
Because many more millions don’t make it
@@richardshansky3040 good point. I didn't think about it that way. We are only seeing the survivors.
Most likely in the woods or forest there's competition for sunlight also which is different for areas wider exposed to sunlight. Wooded areas also have their natural feeding ground/beds naturally occurring too, as long as there's rain it's all good.
Survivor bias. Plus- the soil in a forest is about as good as it gets
Plus in a garden you're generally wanting uniform foliage etc. That's not how it works in the wild. Go have a good look at wild arborvitae. Brown stuff everywhere.
Literally the questions I ask everytime I look at my trees.
I see so many people lose rows of arborvitaes and the number one reason is not shock, or watering etc. It's SPIDER MITES. Unfortunately, by the time most people suspect a problem, it is already too late and the entire shrub will go brown. That is why you should use a miticide every year (rotating different types so as not to encourage resistance).
As soon as you see any signs of stress - DO THIS.
(Note - spider mites are extremely small and hard to see).
Take a piece of plain bright white paper. Fold it in half. With one hand hold the paper close to - or even a bit inside - of the green foliage. Shake the tree with the other hand. Then take your open hand and rub it across the paper. If you see little brown or red streaks - those are the spiders mites you have crushed with your hand. One or two streaks - not much of worry. A bunch of streaks - quickly run out and buy a miticide ASAP and spray those shrubs thoroughly.
I have close to 80 arborvitaes on my property and I learned this the hard way. Spider mites can wipe out an entire row of arborvitae in short order.
Do this paper test about three times a season even if you don't see any signs of damage.
Like I said, most times, by the time you see evidence of mite damage, its TOO LATE, and no matter what you do, the shrub will go completely brown and die.
BTW - a lot of arborvitaes that come from the big box stores are already infested with spider mites. If you buy from these places (which usually have the best prices) assume they have mites and just use the miticide as soon as you plant. Even if they don't have them, the good miticides will offer your shrubs several months of protection.
Thanks for the great advice. 👍🏻
Ken B;
Didn’t know the white paper tip…thanks. I have a green weeping juniper that’s probably at least 30 years old and when I first purchased my place I watered and fertilized on a regular schedule. My first year here I used, a miticide fungicide
And just sprayed everything because the rhododendrons also looked liked they had issues as well as many other plants . Had repeated the process per instructions on bag. Everything greened up and in my mind I really didn’t know the juniper had spider mites, but I knew that the previous owners didn’t treat this high maintenance yard, they just had landscapers come in and keep it edged and tidy looking. Everything looked infected when I would examine various plant leaves. The neighbor across the street also has the same weeping juniper and towards the end of spring theirs was turning brown and mine was a beautiful blueish-green; I thought it was because I was watering and fertilizing.
The next year I did my regular routine but didn’t treat with the miticide and noticed it turned brown and the neighbors did as well…I couldn’t figure it out. The 3rd year I was cleaning the juniper dead needles/ branches and developed a itchy rash up and down my arms-that’s when I figured it out and sprayed immediately and sure enough it started looking healthy again. I am glad you brought this point up because it is so important as it is easy to think the browning is watering or fertilizing issues. I now treat early spring before it gets out of control and do a second application.
I just bought 40 and I haven’t planted them yet but this is a GREAT advice! If you have any other tips or suggestions when it comes to planting please let us know! And again thank you!
good advice, i just planted some similar trees
Very helpful and appreciated thank u.
Drainage and pH are very important as well as moisture. When planting in dry area, make sure the tree and that area both are well watered. The best time to plant them without problem and less work/no work is right before winter.
Great tips as well. 👍🏻
Totally agree with you. Planting trees in late fall helps them to avoid the stress of hot Summer heat and then they get the Spring rains while getting their feet in the ground. We planted 18 or so in late fall 2 yrs ago and so far so good. We have had to start watering this mid Spring and we did put in fertilizer spikes. Rule of thumb for us is to take the most care with your most expensive plantings. 🌲🌲🌲 Right before Winter planting has been the most successful for us with trees by far.
Thank you! Planted in july....browning galore
Thanks for this video! I trimmed my Evergreen last year away from my deck area and the side that I trimmed has been browning ever since. I hope I can nurse it back.
I have this problem as well, trimmed trees and now I have browning.
All the same questions I ask my new trees.thanks !
I just transplanted 62, 4-ft Green Giants along the edge of hardwoods on a power easement facing south (6 hours of full sun). Only 5 have browning issues, probably from transplant shock and under watering initially. We've been in a drought recently in northeast Georgia. Thanks for the diagnostics!
Sweet! I have 52 in my backyard.
@@BiggCope , awesome! How big were they when you planted them and how big are they now after how many years?
Thanks.. we had to take a couple out last year and left one and I think it’s not doing so well. I’m sad about it
If you trim all the dead stuff off will it grow new green shoots and fill back in?
If your neighbor on the other side of the fence puts down some herbicide, it could adversely affect your trees. Mine had some dieback along the bottoms when my neighbor installed a vinyl fence but luckily the side facing me stayed green. He later added some larger evergreens so there's competition for light, water and nutrients. But so far all the trees seem to be co-existing. Yours look nice and straight. I randomly need to straighten mine out every once in awhile. Not sure if it's something I did wrong when planting or because the arborvitaes seem to hold onto snow which gets heavy. It's always an adventure working in the yard...
This was super helpful thank you 🙏
Great information
Thanks for this video!! First-time arborvitae planter and I'm experiencing random small browning inside my trees. Ugh!
Browning on the inside is normal. They do that to prepare for the winter. Mine are all browning a bit on the inside right now.
Very helpful. Thaanks
I planted mine two days ago and the leave (needles?) are getting hard. Are they going to make it?
I’m curious can recently planted arborvitae’s become sun burned? I’ve noticed the trees facing the sun don’t look as good as their backside. We are only watering them 2-3 times per week and I think they may need more water. They have been planted ~6-8 weeks.
I live in zone 2 in northern BC (canada), I have a Skybound cedar, supposedly zone 2, 5 feet tall. I planted it last May 1 yr ago, in a mix of native sandy soil, potting mix and bark mulch. I feed it weekly. It didn't grow at all last summer that I can tell, I wrapped it in burlap for winter, took that off in March. We had one snow after that that didn't last. I watered it as soon as the snow melt had dried on the ground surface, I didn't water it while outside temps were below freezing. And now, mid April, it has brown branches all over it. What did I do wrong!?! This is my second attempt to grow a cedar. First one was dead by this time in April.
I bought 10 1ft last year. They survived the winter and doing good now.
Bought 10 3ft, one is having trouble but 9 are good. The brown ones I water more then they come back. All 20 are alive n green now.
I live in Michigan, my arborvitae are about 20 y.o. Most of them died thsi year 2023, started lated 2022, due to spider mites? Some have survived. First time my whole neighborhood got hit with this pest?
Very nice video
are these trees planted in mostly shade? They look like they are doing great and I would love some on the corners of my house that may get 1-2 hrs of sun
Can you do the same review on yews? Or does this same situation applies to them too?
Unfortunately I’m not as familiar with yews.
I planted 11 arborvitaes in moist conditions and found out that clay underneath is not letting my soil drain correctly. Some are doing fine others have turned brown right away. Not sure why some tolerate the clay and others don't, leaving me to wonder if it really is the clay?. Anyways I asked Davey tree specialists to come by for free and they advised that its the clay as well as me not digging the holes big enough and putting good soil in so the roots have a chance to spread. in some places these things grow like weeds and others they are difficult to grow. Thanks for the video, Ill take any advice I can get.
Would adding gypsum help the clay soil??
@@davidcampbell4429 Yes it would, and does.
Best time to plant is either early spring or when it starts cooling beginning of autumn
Could someone in here please answer some of the questions?
What does the inside look like? I have a lot of brown inside and some on the outside. I think lack of water.
Right now since the weather is getting colder the insides of the trees naturally brown out. Mine are also browning on the inside currently in preparation for the winter. This should be normal, though excessive browning on the outside could be an issue. 10 gallons of water a week should be enough. Drill a hole in the bottom of a five gallon bucket and fill it twice for an accurate way to give water. Unless you have a lot of trees then drip irrigation would be better.
How often are you supposed to water them? Are these cedars not drought resistant?
I water mine at 10 gallons per week using drip irrigation. They may be more drought tolerant once their roots are established.
If my tree is brown at bottom like the video( overwatering) section, do I trim the brown off or leave it alone?
Plus if I see aphids and spray them with water, dawn and or alcohol, do I cut off the dead parts they ate? Thanks so much.
From my experience if a part has gone brown then it’s not coming back, so yes trim it off so the tree can focus on what’s good.
Thanks for the video.I'm curious to see if the one the end with the dead spot eventually fills in as I have a potted one a similar size with the same problem.
Same. I’ll be fertilizing and trimming the dead branches in the spring and will do a follow up. Hopefully it can come back and fill in.
How are those trees now? I just planted 30 to replace the dead ones during this summer while we were out of town.
All are doing great except for the weak one at the end. It’s been hanging on for 2 seasons but I’m planning on replacing that one in the spring. I’m going to try to do an update video sometime this fall.
I’ve seen both positive and negative reviews on spike fertilizers for these trees. Do you reccomend them?
Do you see his trees.
@@22jdeeeI have 6 on my property line. I’ve used the fertilizers since this comment and the trees are all dark green and healthy. They do work.
What fertilizer?
So my trees are browning from the inside out and been watering them regularly. I live in Canada or zone 3 and we planted them in June. Is this the normal process of browning before winter?
Browning on the inside layers is normal as temperatures get colder and they prepare for the winter.
Hi. I have green giant arborvitae, some in full sun, some in part sun . I planted them about this time last year , 3 feet high. Texas. They were all doing great till 100 degrees . The full sun ones , 4 of the 6 have died. The other 2 doing quite well. The part sun ones doing ok , going a bit yellow.
We had a sprinkler ban so I installed drip system , I may have over watered , but my blue point junipers are all doing amazing. As are my Italian Cypress. Watering is my main question. How much ? and does the amount of watering change when temperatures get over 100 ? Also do I prune off any brown parts ?
Under or overwatering depends on the rate of your drip irrigation. I have some green giants as well and have been giving them 10 gallons per week. I actually do this once a week through drip irrigation, but you could split this up to like 5 gallons every 3 days as well. Having a moisture probe helps to identify under or overwatering as well. If I had to guess, I’d probably say you may have been under watering with the heat, but identify how many gallons you’ve been giving them each week and go from there. Trim back the dead stuff as it likely won’t come back and if the whole tree has turned you may have to call it a learning process and plant another.
You were definitely understanding them, I live in west Texas worst part of Texas and this summer was brutal! I transplanted 32 3ft at the beginning of July (I know I shouldn’t have) and they started browning in the bottom and on the Inside so I watered them every day not drip irrigation just a lot of water and they’re doing amazing under the full sun and 110 degrees and they even grew so if you ask me in the beginning they need lots of water I also recently bought the spikes fertilizer and I can already see a difference in color.
Any update on these emerald greens?
How fast do arborvitaes grow? Arborvitae updates 1 year later.
ua-cam.com/video/9-Znr5yI6Fg/v-deo.html
Just posted this 2 days ago.
can we cut off the top after a few years and lower it by a quarter or a third? Does the top then grow back and is the top also nice and green? I would like to have a hedge that is 10-20 years old and will only be 5-7 foot tall.
If you cut the top 1/4 or so off an arborvitae it may very well survive but probably won’t likely fill in the top with new green branches. Then you’ll be left with a potential bare spot. If your row of arborvitae are tall enough and you top them higher out of view you probably wouldn’t notice it and it wouldn’t be an issue. But for the height your wanting and the ability to shape the hedge and it grow back nicely I would recommend looking more into boxwoods.
I've got the exact same intex 10'x30" pool in my yard. Lol
How are the tree's?? Could you give us an update on your Emerald Green Arborvitae??
They are doing pretty well this year. One had a branch break off over the winter due to snow weight and the one that was struggling on the end hasn’t died and is showing some growth but I’m still considering replacing it. I have a lawn blog video from a couple months ago this year you could check out and may do another follow up video later this summer/fall for those interested.
Lawn Blog May 2023: Grubs, Sprinkler Repair, and Spring Seeding with GCI Cool Blue Grass Seed.
ua-cam.com/video/76S85yuLZrY/v-deo.html
I don't know if this is your issue, but just in case, here's my thoughts. Emerald Green arborvitaes are known for loving moisture. They should never be planted on a berm or on soil that is higher than the surrounding area. If you want something narrow that can handle drier conditions, look at the American Pillar arborvitae. They do bronze somewhat in the winter, but they are beautiful in the summer and are very fast growing.
Thanks for the advice. Hopefully with the drip irrigation installed being planted in an area that is a few inches higher won’t be too much of an issue, but it is definitely something I considered with water run off.
Arbs hate wet feet.
Planting in a low berm in best practice.
The roots are shallow (oxygen loving) and they swamp out very easily. They die in places that stay too wet. The roots die back and then when dry conditions come back they collapse because the root system has died back.
They die in summer after a very wet spring.
I am in Ohio.
That is not my understanding or experience. Emerald Greens do extremely well in dry conditions - it's kind of what they are known for - being very hardy and drought resistant. I've seen Emerald Greens in a city setting in nothing more than a big unattended pot of bone dry soil and they were green and lush. They also do very well in berms (in my experience).
American Pillars are nice, but they do not stay as compactly narrow and tight as the Emerald Greens, so people with small yards should probably stick with the Emerald Greens.
Please suggest a Juniper like tree to grow on hard laterite foothill in a coastal humid tropical climate with around 40% Sun ( beside 10-12 feet tall Boundary Wall facing higher side of land) for front yard privacy and decor. TYVM
PS: Though of different climate Similar Tall trees (guessing Cypres) found in Granada Spain seemed interesting
We have 34 American Pillars and they are on a level yard and doing great. BUT, spider mites been sucking the sap and turning leaves/branch brown. We spray twice in the summer. Zone 6a
i planted 17 arbovitaes 3 years ago some have grown an inch or two 2 died and the rest have not grown at all??? they look healthy green and bushy i live in Colorado they get sun all day and in the winter they are not as vibrant green , do you have an idea of why this might be happening. ? also the 2 trees that have died were both planted in the same spot. they are all 4 feet apart from each other . Thank you or anyone who might be able to help
There’s a saying in the planting world “sleep, creep, then leap.” The first year the trees are establishing roots. The second year or so they slowly start to grow and just “creep” along. After the third year or so is when they should take off or “leap”. Browning in the winter is normal and sounds like most of your trees are doing normal as well. As for the 2 that died in the same spot, if it’s a high or low spot it could be water/drainage issues. If that’s not the case maybe dig down and check the soil for obstructions like rocks etc. Just a thought. Good luck.
I just planted 8 arborvitaes (August, northern Utah) and the four that see more sun are starting to show slight duller green coloration and the leaves (leaves? Pines?) Are becoming slightly more firm and not as fluffy as the other four. Since planting them a month ago, I water them all about 3-4 days per week about half a gallon each. Please let me know if you think I should water them more or less. It's really hard to tell. Thank you!!
In the sun and dull sounds like you are under watering. They need about 10 gallons of water a week. From your description sounds like they are getting only 2 gallons a week. I would recommend a moisture meter as well but then either split your watering to 5 gallons every 3 days or all 10 gallons once a week. They need time to breath between waterings as well.
Thank you!! ill get started on that this morning!!
@@Type5Reviews
@@Type5Reviews so after some experimentations I've found that the best frequency for where I live (high desert) is about 2 gallons per tree per day. I've found that daily watering produces the best results by far. My trees are growing approximately .5 to 1.5 inches per week since mid May. Not surprisingly More sun=more water.
May I ask why you do not cut off all the yellow?
I didn’t at the time of making the video to show the effects that had happened to the trees. Since then I have trimmed off most of the branches that have gone brown and died.
I just planted some sugar and spice arborvitaes. The weather has been hot. I'm not sure how much water to give them. I turn the hose on and let the soil around each tree soak for 10 minutes. Daily. Is this too much?
For my emerald greens I do 10 gallons of water each week through drip irrigation. You can check out my drip irrigation video on how to set something like that up. You could also take a 5 gallon bucket and time how long it takes your hose to fill it up to identify how much water you are giving them. 10 minutes by a fully on hose daily could be too much. I would test that with a bucket and also get a soil moisture meter. You don’t want the roots to stay wet all the time. That can lead to rot. They need a chance to breathe between waterings. I would water a good amount less frequently. Check out this soil probe below.
amzn.to/3JNY6zn
hand waterinh
I have a Leland or some sort of cypress and I cannot get rid of bagworms. I have sprayed with a recommended spray and I also have picked everyone of them off, yes it took me 2 weeks to get rid of them strictly from picking them off. The bug spray did nothing. Advice?
You were right to pick off all the bags. That is unfortunate. From what I’ve read, you will want to spray an insecticide like Bifen IT late May / early June for the next few years to kill any new ones before they get into their bags. But once they’re mature Bifen doesn’t work as well and a product like Orthene may have better luck at killing the current ones. But Orthene smells really bad, so be aware of that. Just passing on what I’ve found as I haven’t had to deal with them myself. Hopefully this will help in your own research. Good luck.
Soil application of acephate in May.
Repeat for two seasons.
Bagworms will be completely gone.
If Orthene smells bad, then it is likely that acephate is the active ingredient.
@@josephjones5070 I could not take it any more, they came back while we were gone.... most of my cypress was brown, with these buggers all over. I chopped her down as to try to save my other two cypress. I will treat the other two with the acephate. My husband hates to treat our lawns and greenery with chemicals. But we have learned if we do not use on st Augustine grass and other critter loving things around the yard we would have nothing that looks good.
@@Lyndeejo88
I'm in Ohio.
I'm not sure what month to treat bagworms in the south.
Most universities have extension services with websites that have better info for treatment timing in your area.
@@josephjones5070 Thank you .. I will look into that.
Plants/tress go into shock when they are planted or handled too much. Plants that are in shock don't drink water. Now if you plant when it's hot ...that plant/tree will be in dire straights
Dry winter cold winds will cause "the browning".
Should the brown leaves & branches be trimmed away… or leave them?
They should be trimmed, though since it’s so close to the end of the season now I’m waiting until the spring to see what stays brown and needs to be trimmed. I did trim a few back though during the summer that had completely died off. And now going into the winter the trees will start to brown on the inside which is normal as well.
@@Type5Reviews thank you for the advice…we live in the Dallas TX area… we may have a couple more months of warmish weather… do you still think I should wait until spring? I planted this early 2019… it’s never had any brown on it before…any special fertilizer may help?
@@Mom-pp5yn
Esponoma Plant-Tone in the brown and white bag. It is awesome for Arborvitae’s, boxwoods, flowerbeds.
I would only use half strength this time of year. It comes in a granulated form. Just spread a dusting around the drip line of your soil and don’t worry about working it into the soil it will work itself in.
@@tinaknutsen thank you! I will get some 👍
@@Mom-pp5yn Hello! I'm in the Dallas area too. I'm so curious how you have managed to grow Emeralds here. I'm on round 3 and once again they are dying. What soil did you use? Are they planted in the shade?
Rabbits chewed our 2 foot American Pillars. So we bought fencing and wrapped them. Expensive! They are four years old now. Now we don’t know if the rabbits still want to chew them. It’s a dilemma for us
That’s unfortunate. I had rabbits in my yard recently as well. However, they were attracted to the clover in the grass. Killed the clover this past week and the rabbits moved on to my neighbors yard. Good luck.
@@Type5ReviewsHi, our American Pillars that were chewed by rabbits, are actually growing like crazy. The bark healed and all 8 trees are beautiful. 3:14
I have 4 Taylor junipers, should I wrap them for winter
While I personally will probably not wrap my trees there could be some benefits to doing so. If you are afraid of having deer eat your trees, wrapping the bases could help. Also if your area is susceptible to heavy snow or ice storms you may want to wrap them. I had a 15 foot arborvitae last year have a branch weighted all the way down to the ground due to snow. That tree could have benefited from wrapping the branches together to keep them from falling. Good luck with whatever you decide.
Do I cut the brown spots off?
Yes you can trim off the brown dead spots.
@@Type5Reviews thank u
Plant transfer with the letter "r" in the month.
I hate cedars. Where I live the climate has changed so much over the last 3 years that cedars wont even grown without turning brown. Replacing mine with juniper bushes instead. More drought and cold resistant.
Needs more watering.
Don't you think you are the one who damaged the roots by hitting and cutting hard through them?
The first tree you show. The deer eat them.
You pool needs a new pump . Do a video on that
Intex Sand Filter Pump Complete Setup and Review
ua-cam.com/video/69atemJSmZw/v-deo.html
So what you are saying is, you don't really know
your green giant thuja are way too close. when they get bigger, and the roots overlap eachother, some might not make it
I gave up on arborvitae’s. I’ve tried 5 times to plant 6 trees. They always turned brown and died.
The reason is the arborvitae’s are grown in another zone and then shipped to nurseries across the country. These trees go into shock.
That tree has had too much water. Arborvitae’s can not take a lot of water.
Chemtrails.
Green Giant arbs the only choice...Emeralds waste of time and money.