Yes sir I want to thank you for this video because my truck is doing this couldn't get into gear bought a new clutch master cylinder a new slave cylinder bought a new starter but I haven't put it in yet my truck wouldn't start only sometimes I kept having to push started I think because the clutch wasn't engaging right then I watched the video I came across it I went underneath and I saw that nut you were talking about mine was all the way to the front so I turned it with my hand and so it got quite a bit in and then I use the wrench on it and now it's perfect shift real easy like it was when I bought it new I just want to thank you for helping out again thank you very much
I gotta try this. Doing the bleed by myself thing. It's terrible. Pump, pump, stick against the seat(probably not getting it all the way to the floor? I can get a firm pedal but can't get a gear. New carb idling high too. Let her sit up too long. Rebuilt it. She does sound good. If only we could go for a ride like we used to. She wants to go.....
I hope it works for you! I got brake bleeder pump (I think that's what it's called?!) They sell them at harborfreight real cheap! It made the process way easier!
Are you using the stock carb? I replaced mine with a Weber carburetor! Made everything much easier, more spacious and cleaner under the hood! It did away with all the vacume lines and the sensors for the stock carb!
That's just a jamb nut, the saddle on the clutch pedal is what actually turns. It looks like yours is backed off almost all the way already so I'd look into a new master
Thanks! I did end up installing a new one sometime after this video! When my nephew installed this one "in the vid" for me, it was never adjusted! It's why I had trouble getting into gear! The master started leaking brake fluid by the pedal! Installing a new master did give me a better understanding of how it works and how too properly adjust it! She's been shifting perfectly ever since!
@@brandonparker2416 sorry! I don't know what would cause that! I've had the same thing happen, but it's very rare! Too me it felt like the engine had accelerated too slow for that gear causing it too pop out into neutral!? But that's just a best guess!
That fluid can turn black because of the rubber parts disintegrating but then you can't hardly get into 1st and if you're messing with the hard line you probably need the parker copper flare seals Messing with the hard line is complicated it's gotta be a perfect seal 1 tiny scratch and you'll be leaking clutch fluid all over the place you won't be able to drive People use the copper washer for breaks and things to people
@@datalaforge that's the safety neutral switch! It lets the engine start when you're in neutral and pressing the clutch pedal! The clutch pedal presses that switch and completes the circuit! If you don't press the clutch while turning your ignition on, the engine won't crank over! It'll just click once! Same thing will happen if the switch is bad!
Yes. As long as the cause is the adjustment nut and the threaded rod the nut is on. There's a switch right in front of the clutch pedal. Closest to the driver. At it's resting position or when not in use, the clutch pedal should be pressed against that switch. If it's not loosen the nut so you have room to adjust the threaded rod. It's free flowing. You can easily turn it by hand. Turn one way, and the pedal will move towards firewall and away from that switch. This is what we don't want. This will keep you from going into any gear. Turn the rod the other way, you'll see the clutch pedal move towards you as the driver and the switch. Turn the rod until there's enough tension on the switch that it's button is fully pressed while the clutch pedal is at it's resting position. This should begine too engage the clutch the instant you press the clutch pedal and let you go into all gears.
@@guanajito13 k. If you remove the rubber boot from the stick. At the base where the stick and transmission meet. There's like a white plastic bushing type of piece around the stick. Since our trucks are old. That piece can become brittle and break apart and drop into the grooves and keep the stick from sliding into whatever gear it's in.
@@guanajito13 OK. Here's a link for video where you can see the white plastic piece I was talking about. Skip to the 6:30 minute mark "I think?! " 🤔 try looking at yours and see if it's what's causing your problem. If it is, it's an easy fix too replace.
@@concepciondeorienteeljorna67 are you able to record footage of your clutch, master cylinder and upload it too youtu.be? That way I can see what model you have and hopefully help you a bit better!
No! It changes the point at where the clutch is engaged! Before I remembered I had too adjust that nut, I was having too press the clutch pedal to the floor! And even then the clutch wouldn't always engage! Especially 1st and reverse! Now tho? The clutch pedal moves nice and smooth! I barely put much effort into it! Hope this helps!
Yes sir I want to thank you for this video because my truck is doing this couldn't get into gear bought a new clutch master cylinder a new slave cylinder bought a new starter but I haven't put it in yet my truck wouldn't start only sometimes I kept having to push started I think because the clutch wasn't engaging right then I watched the video I came across it I went underneath and I saw that nut you were talking about mine was all the way to the front so I turned it with my hand and so it got quite a bit in and then I use the wrench on it and now it's perfect shift real easy like it was when I bought it new I just want to thank you for helping out again thank you very much
Thank you! I'm glad the info could help you! And I'm glad you got your clutch working!!!
The firewall....lol... ... Thanks for the video man hopefully it helps me out...
I gotta try this. Doing the bleed by myself thing. It's terrible. Pump, pump, stick against the seat(probably not getting it all the way to the floor? I can get a firm pedal but can't get a gear. New carb idling high too. Let her sit up too long. Rebuilt it. She does sound good. If only we could go for a ride like we used to. She wants to go.....
I hope it works for you! I got brake bleeder pump (I think that's what it's called?!) They sell them at harborfreight real cheap! It made the process way easier!
Are you using the stock carb? I replaced mine with a Weber carburetor! Made everything much easier, more spacious and cleaner under the hood! It did away with all the vacume lines and the sensors for the stock carb!
I've watched so many hardbody videos all my UA-cam ads are in Spanish.
Man, I'd like too just get rid of any adds on my vids. I don't like them.
That's just a jamb nut, the saddle on the clutch pedal is what actually turns. It looks like yours is backed off almost all the way already so I'd look into a new master
Thanks! I did end up installing a new one sometime after this video! When my nephew installed this one "in the vid" for me, it was never adjusted! It's why I had trouble getting into gear! The master started leaking brake fluid by the pedal!
Installing a new master did give me a better understanding of how it works and how too properly adjust it! She's been shifting perfectly ever since!
My 4th gear is popping out, any thoughts?
@@brandonparker2416 sorry! I don't know what would cause that! I've had the same thing happen, but it's very rare! Too me it felt like the engine had accelerated too slow for that gear causing it too pop out into neutral!? But that's just a best guess!
That fluid can turn black because of the rubber parts disintegrating but then you can't hardly get into 1st and if you're messing with the hard line you probably need the parker copper flare seals Messing with the hard line is complicated it's gotta be a perfect seal 1 tiny scratch and you'll be leaking clutch fluid all over the place you won't be able to drive People use the copper washer for breaks and things to people
What I'd it's not going in reverse?
Perfect
Glad the info could help!
What does that little switch do? I just looked at my 1991 Nissan pickup and I also have a switch.
Do you mean the switch that the clutch pedal is pressed against when not engaged?
@@almagam2099 At 1:33 when you're pointing at the bolt, there is a switch or a button a couple of inches to the right.
@@datalaforge that's the safety neutral switch! It lets the engine start when you're in neutral and pressing the clutch pedal! The clutch pedal presses that switch and completes the circuit! If you don't press the clutch while turning your ignition on, the engine won't crank over! It'll just click once! Same thing will happen if the switch is bad!
Is the same process for reverse?
Yes. As long as the cause is the adjustment nut and the threaded rod the nut is on.
There's a switch right in front of the clutch pedal. Closest to the driver. At it's resting position or when not in use, the clutch pedal should be pressed against that switch. If it's not loosen the nut so you have room to adjust the threaded rod. It's free flowing. You can easily turn it by hand. Turn one way, and the pedal will move towards firewall and away from that switch. This is what we don't want. This will keep you from going into any gear.
Turn the rod the other way, you'll see the clutch pedal move towards you as the driver and the switch. Turn the rod until there's enough tension on the switch that it's button is fully pressed while the clutch pedal is at it's resting position.
This should begine too engage the clutch the instant you press the clutch pedal and let you go into all gears.
Mine is a 95 and it doesn't want to go in reverse.
All other gears work as they should
@@guanajito13 k. If you remove the rubber boot from the stick. At the base where the stick and transmission meet. There's like a white plastic bushing type of piece around the stick. Since our trucks are old. That piece can become brittle and break apart and drop into the grooves and keep the stick from sliding into whatever gear it's in.
@@guanajito13 OK. Here's a link for video where you can see the white plastic piece I was talking about. Skip to the 6:30 minute mark "I think?! " 🤔 try looking at yours and see if it's what's causing your problem. If it is, it's an easy fix too replace.
@@guanajito13 ua-cam.com/video/Lfs1ucfq2fw/v-deo.html
I replaced the slave and master, I can't even get my truck into reverse
Me friends is the same process for 1993
If it's got the 5 speed manual transmission?!...then yes! It should be the same process!
@@almagam2099 me friend I don't see a bolt nut at there
@@concepciondeorienteeljorna67 are you able to record footage of your clutch, master cylinder and upload it too youtu.be? That way I can see what model you have and hopefully help you a bit better!
@@almagam2099 me brother the only thing you got to do is lose that nut or you need to turn the bolt
If i do that will it make the clutch alot stiffer?
No! It changes the point at where the clutch is engaged! Before I remembered I had too adjust that nut, I was having too press the clutch pedal to the floor! And even then the clutch wouldn't always engage! Especially 1st and reverse! Now tho? The clutch pedal moves nice and smooth! I barely put much effort into it!
Hope this helps!
@@almagam2099 thank you! So if i unscrew towards firewall, it will have less travel on the clutch??
Yes! Exactly!
@@almagam2099 you just thought me something new. I appreciate you, happy new years, & god bless you & your family.🙏
@@mauiboy96768 thank you! Same too you!