Consumer Slot Shadow Mask VS. Aperture Grille VS. Pro Slot Mask CRT / Sony / Ikegami /PVM / MiSTer
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- Опубліковано 18 січ 2022
- Side by side comparison of a
Shadow Slot Mask 14"af Toshiba consumer crt (Top)
An Aperture Grille sony 1344q PVM (Middle)
and a
Slot Mask Hitachi tubed Ikegami TM14-17R pro monitor (Bottom)
RGB through MiSTer FPGA, transcoded to the Toshiba with an Audio Authority 9A60 VGA to YPbPr Component Transcoder. ibb.co/d4SCkqp - Ігри
Side by side comparison of....
Shadow Slot Mask 14"af Toshiba consumer crt (Top)
An Aperture Grille sony 1344q PVM (Middle)
Slot Mask Hitachi tubed Ikegami TM14-17R pro monitor (Bottom)
RGB through MiSTer FPGA, transcoded to the Toshiba with an Audio Authority 9A60 VGA to YPbPr Component Transcoder. ibb.co/d4SCkqp
@@mortimore4030 sounds like there is no video decoder board for the signal type you have selected....
Like its set to pal but no pal decoder or ntsc with no ntsc decoder.
Thanks to the CRT Gaming subreddit, I discovered that my HD CRT is a slot mask shadow mask set. Plus that Super Mario Bros. 3 is so nostalgic! That’s my childhood!
Thank you sir! This this an amazing look at history, and a fantastic reference for me and other 3D artists who want to replicate these screens digitally.
I love the color accuracy of the aperture grill TV, by far my favorite.
Thanks for this, I believe I have a shadow mask.
Awesome comparison. I think I'm starting to dislike aperture grilles. Too sharp, not enough blend. The Sony was sharper than the rest but to the point where I may as well play on an LCD outside of motion handling. I have a Trinitron and a Panasonic Quintrix (i've had a Wega and a B&O too). Honestly the Quintrix is nicer than all of them, way nicer. I've been into CRT collecting for a couple years now and with that has come the realisation that Trinitrons are completely overrated. And anyone that says they like chunky scanlines (flat screen) on 3D titles is probably lying.
I agree, one of my fav tubes is an 800tvl panasonic tri dot, the other is a 36" slot mask rgb jvc. Sonys do have a certain look thats nice but I have to be in the mood for it. I did pick up a pvm 2030 and grabbing a 2530 this weekend... those are said to be the sweet spot of tvl count for retro gaming so we will see. I will need to recap both of them though. Im currently working on a 20m2u that does look pretty damn good but has sync issues Im trying to resolve. But I agree... People often pass on slot mask tubes that are awesome just because they arent trinitron.
I have a diamondtron 21 vga and a b&o 26" consumer crt. The diamondtron looks awesome, sharp and very bright. It has an high dynamic range and can be both bright and at the same time show black as black. Scanlines doesnt gets thicker if they are bright wich makes the black lines in between always be very thick. However for some reason I usually prefer my consumer tv. Its just more organic and hides graphic limitations better. I just wish it was as good dynamic- wise as the diamondtron.
@@vinnievincent85 Yeah I understand the feeling. Consumer sets are WAYYY easier to work on as well!
I have 21" Panasonic with Quintrix F tube connected to PS2 via RGB Scart and I'm amazed every time I turn it on. I wish I could watch movies on it, but 4:3 aspect ratio is not suitable.
Agree
Man, that's an awesome collection of displays!
Thank you for taking the time to make this comparison. I love that aperture grille.
Badass comparisons, thanks!
TV number 3 is the winner, I think it shows the pixel art and the white color better.
THANK YOU
This was an amazing comparison of the three and helped inform my purchasing decision!
Thanks! I have a few more 14 and 20" pro and consumer models now... I plan on doing another updated video soon
For what I see the bes combo is: Shadow Mask for Videogame Consoles like the SNES, Genesis/Megadrive, Turbografx/PC Engine and before. Aperture Grill for Arcade Systems, PSOne, Sega Saturn, N64, Dreamcast, PS2, OG Xbox, Gamecube & Wii.
nice comparison!! and i love ur commentary lol
Excellent showcase! That sony looks insane
Great video and very informative! Thanks!
Nice video, great job🎉
Your camera was playing a lot nicer with the sony than the other two. I think your right, the Sony had the contrast/brightness turned down compared to the other two and your camera had an easier time with it.
When I record crts I turn the brightness down. This seems to eliminate some of the moire pattern.
Your right, and ive gotten a little better now recording. I set the 60 shutter speed and iso as normal, but before i would keep focus on auto and it would focus in on the mask or grille and create bad moire..... Now i set it to manual, get it perfectly in focus and lock it in but then back the camera up an inch which gets it just out of focus enough to look good and get rid of the moire.
Its still never perfect and sometimes I get too lazy to go through all that. I wish there was a camera app for crts with shutter speeds adjustible by .1 of a frame and have the right amount of off focus.
Or hell... Just a way to save my manual phone settings as a preset lol.
I need to do another comparison, i got a 20" broadcast panasonic... 800tvl and its the most beautiful tube ive ever looked at.
Just finished a 36" jvc rgb mod as well and its stunning.
Im honestly getting burnt out on editing vids for yt though 😔
@@LameGaming I do something similar with recording however I utilize the camera's auto adjust to eliminate the rolling bar. Once the camera auto adjusts the iso, shutter etc to eliminate the rolling bar I lock it in and then I adjust the focus to eliminate moire. I do some extra boo shit but that's the general idea.
My understanding is that only certain camera's/phones are capable of adjusting shutter by.1. I believe there are some "DSLR" apps capable of adjusting by .1 but I don't have a phone capable of utilizing the app. My dad's fancy Canon camera can adjust shutter by .1 increments but I have to use really clunky software (magic lantern) to get it to work and that camera has other issues with recording CRTs. Recording CRTs is a fun challenge for me. I'm working on recording Tate and 480i light gun games right now.
Burn out huh. I'm not there yet. I usually shoot like 3 or 4 episodes in a weekend or two and then release 1 a month. Trying to stave off the burn out. I got enough content lined up for probably another year and by then I might start running out of shit to say. Probably just upload playthroughs for fun at that point.
@@riggel8804 I bought a thousand dollar camera and think my phone does a better job 🤣
To be fair I havnt looked into it much.
I wish I knew of an app on android that would let me pick shutter speed with smaller increments or auto adjust to get rid of rolling bar.
great comparison, it's always interesting to see different monitors side by side. what's a "shadow slot mask" though? i've only heard of shadow mask and slot mask, respectively.
You should also take a look at JVC's Liquid Crystal Color Shutter (LCCS) tech.
Whoa... Thats cool! I knew about sony and canons SED crt tech but never knew about this shutter tech.
Would be cool to see this color shutter applied to a super high TVL count black and white pvm!
Do you know what would be the most typical type of shadow mask for an early 90s arcade cabinet (Capcom, Konami...). I'm trying to configure Mister FPGA on my lcd monitor to look as realistic as possible, but there's a zillion of shadow masks to choose from.
I havnt updated mister in a while, I heard theres all sorts of shadow mask filters now but ive yet to check them out.
Id like to get an oled and check these out and see how they compare.
@@LameGaming Thanks, I'll be following
if you want it to look "realistic" you need to avoid CRT shaders entirely. realistically, you do NOT see scanlines on a CRT except for the "high end" ones using shitty aperture grills. the average shadow mask CRT just looks like a smoothed out image similar to bilinear filtering. i find the gaussian blur and chromatic abberation shaders in resahde to be the best at simulating an actual CRT look.
Bro, what are you using to output to all of the displays and for sound? I'd be happy with either one of the crt's btw!
The pvms have rgb in and out, the last out going to 9a60 transcoder
How are you conecting 4 monitors at once? Thanks, the Hitachi looks very nice!!
The mister fpga system im using outputs digital and analog signals simultaneously so the digital out is using hdmi to the lcd.... Most pro crt monitors have signal inputs and outputs so the analog from fpga is sent to one monitor and the output is sent to the next monitor, the output from the 2nd pro monitor is converted from rgbs to ypbpr through a transcoder and sent to the little consumer set.
I think that top display is the best out of all because it does the job of proper pixel blending and saving the concept of what these pixel sprites are trying to look like. I've played on these type of 15khz displays in arcades back in the 80's, so when I look at the way this community tries to go over making it sharp as possible or running filters, half the time they miss the point. Only few folks I'm seeing get it and post the proper representations of them.
One of the ultimate games to place the bar is the KoF series. If you're looking at Mai and you're seeing pixels, you're not seeing Mai correctly.
Heya. i have same monitor ikegami 14-17R, the colors are beautiful but the image with snes looks worse with the rgb plugs, am I missing something?
Do you have termination caps on the monitors video outputs? They need 75Ω termination or this image will be way overdriven.
You dont mention what model snes or rgb cables your using.... If i remember right in Europe the rgb out lines in the console were attenuated but in the US you have to add resistors to your rgb cable. I bought rgb cables from aliexpress for my snes and it looked way too bright and overblown, found out i needed to add resistors or caps to the cable, cant remember exactly now.
@@LameGaming i buy a SNES cable rgb on Aliexpress and dont know if have 75 ohm, color is beautiful but no sharpes
@@LameGaming thank you for info😉
@@PDumitru you need 75Ω termination caps for this ikegami. They are little metal plugs with 75Ω resistors built in. They need to go in the rgb bnc video output ports on the back of the monitor.
The snes rgb cables on aliexpress are questionable quality and probably dont have the right resistors added to make the image signal output the right voltage.
Look into modding your cables or order some from a reputable cable supplier
the old CRTs are with round holes on the shadow mask
Tri dot?
@@LameGaming exactly 😊
@@intel386DX I have a 19" Panasonic BT-M1950 which is a 800tvl tri-dot but did not have it at the time I made this vid
Too bad, you haven't a THOMSON/VIDEOCOLOR PIL Tube (on saba TVs for example).
Shadow/slot masks are more natural.
Aperture masks are for brighter images with less natural filtering.
The only Thomson tube I have is in a 36" jvc from before the D-series era.
I recapped the board and RGB modded.... Its one of my most used crt's now.
Geometry on it is top notch for such a huge tube.
"Lame" gaming? That's a name no one would self-apply where I come from
Retro games are seen by younger generations as "Lame" . Its just kind of sarcastic humor.
By the way... Where are you from?