Another great video. I’m a war game painter, but my son is getting into HO scale trains so a win win for both of us. Thank you for content that my 12 year old can watch. Subscribed
Fantastic video! Made me go right for the "subscribe" button. I will say i fast forwarded through the repeated steps e.g. painting bricks 5 different colors. I also agree with previous comments on sticking that brush into multiple colored bottles instead of dispensing a small amount. Love the joint compound for the mortar and will definitely be using this!
I am delighted with the time you take and comfortable approach you use to get me into the challenge of dealing with brick and weathering in general. Taking siding pictures.
You are truly an artist... I have aged a few brick buildings for my layout but the mortar joints always are difficult for me. I would have never thought of filling them with joint compound but it makes sense and is such a simple solution.
Nice video! I completely agree with NOT completely integrating the colors of paint. They should be mixed somewhat thoroughly but not completely! Very nice technique and finished result!
If you reverse the coloring steps (brick color and mortar color) you'll find the results quicker and less messy. Flood the brick wall with your chosen mortar color and let it dry completely (a hair dryer helps). Then come back with your multi-colored brick colors and use a sponge to apply the color to the brick surface (like a "dry-brush" technique, only with a sponge). Use a very light touch with the sponge and color all the brick surfaces. By doing this in the order described, you won't get that white haze over the top of all the bricks.
Thanks for watching and thank you for the suggestion but thats not the look I wanted. I like the wash over the brick. I feel it gives it more of an aged look. I have used the technique you mentioned on a brick building that was new looking. Thanks again for watching!!!
No matter how much of the grout color you try to remove, the brick face will always have some layer of color over it. I would recommend putting the grout material on FIRST, and then adding the brick color with the dry sponge technique. Besides looking better, you save the time and effort it takes to remove the grout color, and the clean-up inside door and window frames.
Wow! For once You Tube suggested something wonderful! The tutorial was very interesting, instruction was easy to follow, and the results were great. Your buildings you used as examples at the end were stunning! New sub. Gonna go, I have a lot of catching up to do. See ya next time.
i know im randomly asking but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb lost my login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me.
@Gunnar Jayden Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Thank you so much!!! I never put a clear on my modeled. Once they are on the layout, you never touch them so the weathering will not come off. Thanks for watching!!!
Thank you so much Ron!!! I really appreciate it! The gooseneck lamps are from Tichytraingroup.com and yes you have to weather them. Thanks for watching! 👍
Jason I can not tell you how much I appreciate your tutorials. They have helped me immensely. What is the "motar compound" you used? I have looked on line but haven't been able to find anything. Thank you in advance
Wow! another great video Jason! I assume you can adapt that technique to plastic/styrene kits/sheets as well. I wonder if adding some craft paint to the joint compound would work. Maybe give some variety to the mortar color. Regardless, I really enjoy your videos and structures. I'm looking into building my first laser-cut kit. To say I was inspired by you, is an understatement....keep up the great work!
I .think everything Jason works on (even if he makes a mistake] is so well explained. I have a question on the bricks,. I found 3 -10” x approx.30” sheets of brick from Holgate & Reynolds. I hate to waste them. The bricks look like the same height as HO but the length is almost doubled which scale should I use them on, HO or O I have worked in 1/4 scale (1/48). But want to try HO (if I can, Because I have Lupus)
Jason Jensen Trains You’re probably right but I think I will try making one little brick building to see if I can handle the size and I’ll be able to judge better to see if the brick would work on it at all. I’ve learned so much from you that I’m dying to try it on one size or the other anyway. Thank you for responding to my question. I can send you a piece the size you could use on something, I have a lot of it, each piece is 8x21”
I want to be able to do my brick walls without the weathering effect, just adding the grouting over newly painted wall and keeping that new building look?
That works.! You could just spray paint the wall a brick red color then let it dry for a full day and then apply the grout. Always let the paint dry for a long time so that the brick color doesn't bleed into the grout. Happy modeling!!!
I have considered this myself. I’m in the UK, and I’m in the process of building architecture for a period railway (railroad?) based around the 1920’s/30’s. I have weathered some of the buildings as I see them today, then later realised the buildings at that time would have been new, or still in the process of building., not looking 90-100 years old.
love the brick video, I noticed the brushes that you used are smaller and look a little stiffer, were the bought that way or did you make them from different size brushes. Again great video keep them coming.
I'm just starting to learn these skills for painting miniatures. My question is...Did you start with the unpainted plastic walls as they were..right out of the box? Or were they sprayed with a primer or color before you started with the sponge?
very nice. I learn something different from every one of your videos. I've noticed you really like green and red for doors and windows on your buildings. is that something that was done a lot in older buildings? it looks really good but just wondering.
Nice video! Very interesting technique with the joint compound. I’ll have to try that. Also, wondering why you didn’t brace up the walls with 1/8” strips like in a recent video? Are the walls used here much thicker wood?
Thank you, and thank you for watching!!! The walls are pretty thick but you should still brace them. I used them just for the video so I didn't brace them but then decided to make a small structure with them. I recommend always bracing!
I dont buy signs. For example, if I want an old Coke Cola sign I do a Google search for vintage Coke signs. Tons of images come up and I pick the one I like and drag it on to my desktop. I then resize it to the correct size I need and print it. I then weather the sign to make it look old. I hope this helps!
@@JasonJensenTrains thanks....I literally just had samples cut for me i never thought of laser cut wall.....I work with 1:64 scale so I'll try some paint now.
Enjoyed the video, Jason. Where did you get the brick corners? Jimmy Simmons/Monster Model Works used to sell them, but I'm unaware of a source since he's not in business any longer.
Thank you!!! You could prime the walls if you want to. I recommend bracing the back of the walls so they dont warp. I should have showed that in the video. Sorry, next time I will.
Another great video. I’m a war game painter, but my son is getting into HO scale trains so a win win for both of us. Thank you for content that my 12 year old can watch. Subscribed
Thank you so much!!! I've always wanted to try painting table top gaming figures and buildings. It all looks awesome!!!
Fantastic video! Made me go right for the "subscribe" button. I will say i fast forwarded through the repeated steps e.g. painting bricks 5 different colors. I also agree with previous comments on sticking that brush into multiple colored bottles instead of dispensing a small amount. Love the joint compound for the mortar and will definitely be using this!
I am delighted with the time you take and comfortable approach you use to get me into the challenge of dealing with brick and weathering in general. Taking siding pictures.
I love being able to share my passion for this hobby with others. Thanks for watching Peter!!!
Awesome video Jason. I always get new ideas from your videos. Thanks, Russ from Oregon
Thank you so much Russ!!!! I really appreciate it! Happy modeling! 👍
Wow Jason, master model builder! Thank you for sharing your tips
Thank you so much Carl!!! I really appreciate it!
Superb modelling! Love the buildings!
I watched numerous videos on painting brick. Decided to go with your method and it worked out perfectly. Thank you for your videos you are the best!
WOW, Thank you so much Bruce!!! I really appreciate it! I'm so glad it worked out for you. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!!!
I am glad you mentioned using the back side of the blade because that helps me learn and saves the blade from going bad
You are truly an artist... I have aged a few brick buildings for my layout but the mortar joints always are difficult for me. I would have never thought of filling them with joint compound but it makes sense and is such a simple solution.
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!!!
Who could give this a thumbs down? I thought your work was fantastic!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!!!
Nice looking work! Thank you for sharing.
Very nice tutorial. I love the fact that you use pastels and charcoals for weathering. Great buildings as usual!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!!!
Thanks! I will be modifying your technique and trying it out on their laser cut Cement Block walls and corner posts using various grays.
Thanks for watching!!! I’m glad the video was helpful! 👍
Absolutely fantastic work. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching Scott!!! I appreciate it!
This was great! I was getting poor results with my old method. Your techniques are getting me MUCH better bricks. Thank you
Your welcome! Thanks for watching and happy modeling!!!
Hooray for Point Special!
Amazing work!
Thank you so much!!!
Great technique, thank you for your help with bettering our weathering.
Thanks for watching!!!!!
Nice video! I completely agree with NOT completely integrating the colors of paint. They should be mixed somewhat thoroughly but not completely! Very nice technique and finished result!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!!!
Sweet! Love your technique thx for sharing
Love your work, the brickworks awesome. The detail pieces and signage make the buildings really look amazing!!!!!!!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!!!
hi, Jason,
fantastic looks brilliant, as with all your videos a true pleasure to watch, stay safe, and well Al.😊😊👍👍👍
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!!!
Thank you for a great video. Do you have a video showing how you make and distress the signage? Your signs looked really good.
Very nice build, have subscribed, all the best Garry
Thank you!!!
Hello Jason, very interesting idea for painting brick, might try this for our BuildCrew 2.0 build project we are working on
Hi! Hey, I like the way your plaster technique works. I've also tried wood putty
Thank you so much!!!
Really nice tutorial Jason, the brick work looks really good, thanks for sharing!...Bill
Thank you so much!!!
Great work, can you do this on plastic buildings?
@@carltesh9612 Thank you so much Carl!!! You can definitely use this technique on plastic.
Great video!!
Thank you!!!
really nice result......thanks for the tip!!
Thanks for watching!!!
If you reverse the coloring steps (brick color and mortar color) you'll find the results quicker and less messy. Flood the brick wall with your chosen mortar color and let it dry completely (a hair dryer helps). Then come back with your multi-colored brick colors and use a sponge to apply the color to the brick surface (like a "dry-brush" technique, only with a sponge). Use a very light touch with the sponge and color all the brick surfaces. By doing this in the order described, you won't get that white haze over the top of all the bricks.
Thanks for watching and thank you for the suggestion but thats not the look I wanted. I like the wash over the brick. I feel it gives it more of an aged look. I have used the technique you mentioned on a brick building that was new looking. Thanks again for watching!!!
Very nice..
No matter how much of the grout color you try to remove, the brick face will always have some layer of color over it. I would recommend putting the grout material on FIRST, and then adding the brick color with the dry sponge technique. Besides looking better, you save the time and effort it takes to remove the grout color, and the clean-up inside door and window frames.
Wow! For once You Tube suggested something wonderful! The tutorial was very interesting, instruction was easy to follow, and the results were great. Your buildings you used as examples at the end were stunning! New sub. Gonna go, I have a lot of catching up to do. See ya next time.
i know im randomly asking but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb lost my login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me.
@Franklin Jaziel Instablaster =)
@Gunnar Jayden Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Gunnar Jayden it worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my ass !
@Franklin Jaziel Happy to help xD
Great video Jason. really going to help me on my next project. New Sub.
Thank you so much!!! 👍
Very Inspirational video, convinced me to have a try. Would you recommend any way of protecting the finish. A coat of varnish or pva glue, perhaps ?
Thank you so much!!! I never put a clear on my modeled. Once they are on the layout, you never touch them so the weathering will not come off. Thanks for watching!!!
You absolute monster. How dare you use a dirty brush to dip back into clean colours! MAKES ME SCREAM.
LOL, Thank you so much!!!!!
The brickwork came out great. How do you treat the corners to get a true 45 degree angle where the walls meet?
Thanks for the video. Wondering why you unscrew the bottle cap to dispense paint instead of using the spout? Other than that, good content.
These videos help me out a ton!!! Thanks for making them! Where do you get your gooseneck lights? Did you weather them yourself? They look great too.
Thank you so much Ron!!! I really appreciate it! The gooseneck lamps are from Tichytraingroup.com and yes you have to weather them. Thanks for watching! 👍
Looks amazing, btw
Thank you so much!!!
Jason I can not tell you how much I appreciate your tutorials. They have helped me immensely. What is the "motar compound" you used? I have looked on line but haven't been able to find anything. Thank you in advance
What are you talking about Justin its not perfect that looks awesome i love your builds and look forward to the next
Thank you!!!
Wow! another great video Jason! I assume you can adapt that technique to plastic/styrene kits/sheets as well. I wonder if adding some craft paint to the joint compound would work. Maybe give some variety to the mortar color. Regardless, I really enjoy your videos and structures. I'm looking into building my first laser-cut kit. To say I was inspired by you, is an understatement....keep up the great work!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!!!
I .think everything Jason works on (even if he makes a mistake] is so well explained. I have a question on the bricks,. I found 3 -10” x approx.30” sheets of brick from Holgate & Reynolds. I hate to waste them. The bricks look like the same height as HO but the length is almost doubled which scale should I use them on, HO or O I have worked in 1/4 scale (1/48). But want to try HO (if I can, Because I have Lupus)
I'm leaning towards O scale.
I dont know with out seeing it. But like I said, I'm leaning towards O scale.
Jason Jensen Trains You’re probably right but I think I will try making one little brick building to see if I can handle the size and I’ll be able to judge better to see if the brick would work on it at all. I’ve learned so much from you that I’m dying to try it on one size or the other anyway. Thank you for responding to my question. I can send you a piece the size you could use on something, I have a lot of it, each piece is 8x21”
Question: before you apply the compound, and after the paint is dry should you spray a dull clear?
YES!!!
@@JasonJensenTrains Thank you Jason..
I want to be able to do my brick walls without the weathering effect, just adding the grouting over newly painted wall and keeping that new building look?
That works.! You could just spray paint the wall a brick red color then let it dry for a full day and then apply the grout. Always let the paint dry for a long time so that the brick color doesn't bleed into the grout. Happy modeling!!!
I have considered this myself.
I’m in the UK, and I’m in the process of building architecture for a period railway (railroad?) based around the 1920’s/30’s.
I have weathered some of the buildings as I see them today, then later realised the buildings at that time would have been new, or still in the process of building., not looking 90-100 years old.
love the brick video, I noticed the brushes that you used are smaller and look a little stiffer, were the bought that way or did you make them from different size brushes. Again great video keep them coming.
Thank you so much George!!! I made those. Thanks for watching!
I'm just starting to learn these skills for painting miniatures. My question is...Did you start with the unpainted plastic walls as they were..right out of the box? Or were they sprayed with a primer or color before you started with the sponge?
The walls are laser cut wood. You might want to prime them first.
@@JasonJensenTrains thanks for the quick reply...I appreciate it.
very nice. I learn something different from every one of your videos. I've noticed you really like green and red for doors and windows on your buildings. is that something that was done a lot in older buildings? it looks really good but just wondering.
Thank you so much!!! Green just looks good with brick. Not sure if that was done on older buildings or not. I just like it. Thanks for watching!!!
Will the grout work with a plastic kit also ? Or is the wood more defined.
Good question! I think I would mix Elmers glue with it before applying it. Maybe 20 or 30 percent glue.
Nice video! Very interesting technique with the joint compound. I’ll have to try that. Also, wondering why you didn’t brace up the walls with 1/8” strips like in a recent video? Are the walls used here much thicker wood?
Thank you, and thank you for watching!!! The walls are pretty thick but you should still brace them. I used them just for the video so I didn't brace them but then decided to make a small structure with them. I recommend always bracing!
How do you pick the different colors of paint to combine?
Jason, will this method also work on styrene?
Yes! You may want to watch my video Sci-Fi diorama part 3
where did you get the old signs? this is a totally different technique than your newest
I get all of my signs from Google. Just do a search for the ones you want.
@@JasonJensenTrains ok let me rephrase.. Who do you order them from? what company makes them?
I dont buy signs. For example, if I want an old Coke Cola sign I do a Google search for vintage Coke signs. Tons of images come up and I pick the one I like and drag it on to my desktop. I then resize it to the correct size I need and print it. I then weather the sign to make it look old.
I hope this helps!
@@JasonJensenTrains awesome! Thank you so much Jason. (btw I'm AvocadoKids & Marks_colors)
Great video! One question though: Shouldn't wiping of the compound also remove some of the brick paint?
What are you applying the chalk with?
Just a regular paint brush.
nice
I tried this on my HO scale model using the grout wash but it came out kinda white and I can't see the bricks I painted
Any tips ?
Stupid question....what scale is this
Its HO scale. But this could be applied to any scale.
@@JasonJensenTrains thanks....I literally just had samples cut for me i never thought of laser cut wall.....I work with 1:64 scale so I'll try some paint now.
Your work looks amazing
I think you do follow me on Instagram @king_kustoms77
Enjoyed the video, Jason. Where did you get the brick corners? Jimmy Simmons/Monster Model Works used to sell them, but I'm unaware of a source since he's not in business any longer.
Thanks for watching!!! All brick in this video is from kcworkshop.com email the owner Kenny if it's not on the website.
Why does most of the brickwork in a model train layout have to be red brick. I have seen bricks that are other colors including a light medium brown.
Jason I enjoyed the video but could only find a reference for the kcworkshop brick walls; could you please list the other products used
Bad news! Americana seem to have discontinued "Heritage Brick"...
I am still finding it...
Too bad you couldn't do this in N Scale...
Thank you Jason for another very informative video! Would it make sense to prime both sides of the wood first to avoid any warping?
Thank you!!! You could prime the walls if you want to. I recommend bracing the back of the walls so they dont warp. I should have showed that in the video. Sorry, next time I will.