👋Hey there it's Wes. If you have a project or specific woodworking question you would like answered, I can send you a personalized video. Please go to www.woodworkingwithwes.com. I would love to help out...thanks.
I fasten the tight screws in the center of the panel and then elongate to each side. Either way works, just it’s half the movement from center to edge.
I have a quick question. I realize that the frame is underneath and won't really be seen but is there a reason that you didn't invert it so that the pocket holes would be up against the bottom of the solid wood top and, as a result, would then be completely hidden?
@@truckguy6666 if you look at my question, I acknowledged that it wouldn't be seen. However, since it would have been just as easy to invert it, I was wondering what the rationale was for not doing so. In other words, trying to learn something.
I really enjoy your videos, Wes. One of these days, I'm going to try a solid table or counter top ... don't have the 'guts' yet.🤣 One question for you ... this is the second time I have seen you use that electric sprayer. Are you really satisfied with its performance and is it REALLY easy to clean up after use? I want to get into spraying finishes on my work and don't want to mess with air. Thanks ahead of time for any counsel on this. Marty
Hi Wes, great video. On all of my panels I stain and finish all sides before assembly to minimize any possible stability issues. I really appreciate that you demonstrate most techniques with average shop tools showing us all that high quality work depends on quality workmanship and knowledge as much as anything. Sure the fancy tools do save a lot of time if you’re needing to go fast, but it’s not always a requirement. A question for you sir: when I utilize my thickness planer to clean up panels after glue up, I’ve found that my surface is very crisp and I can go straight to 120 or 150 grit sanding depending on the medium. So far it seems to be very effective and saves the effort. Am I missing something by not going to 80 grit first always?
I know what you mean. It’s so smooth, I just want to slap on finish. But then you’ll have the problem of softer grain rising. So we make it rise ahead of finishing then start with 80 grit. It’s one of those things most of us know and when reminded, are like “oh yea, duh”. 😂 like myself. Hope Wes replies to you. I might be missing something.
@johnwilliams1091 @kizzy3356 Hi...a quality planer would require less sanding. I include the extra step for those who need it. Thanks for watching, Wes
Hi...yes that design would work well for a countertop construction. Just make sure you have a waterproof finish. If you need personalized help with that go to my website: woodworkingwithwes.com/ Thanks for watching, Wes 😀
Hi Teacher Wes. Would you explain how you elongated the screw holes? I understand the principle but not the technique. Thanks again for all your advice and help. ✌🏽🙏🏽
After drilling the initial hole (and with the drill still running) I just rubbed the drill bit up and down until it created an elongated hole. Thanks for watching! Wes
Enjoy your stuff, Wes. Like this frame design. Will this method work for an L shaped bar top? two frames and tops joined with a 45 miter and dog bone fasteners.
We have hurricanes with power outages that last weeks. The humidity buckles the wood floors, makes the doors stick, and worst of all, causes the (even sealed) wood furniture to expand beyond what L brackets or figure 8 top attachments will allow. For me, this is brilliant. Powers out for more than two days, I’ll go under and loosen screws. May not save the finish but it’ll save the wood.
That Alder is really grey! Here on the west coast we always use Red Alder, and I have never seen any other variants. That grain is unmistakably Alder though. Really a nice wood to work with. It sands/machines/glues really well. Sorta soft but thats OK. The real bear was getting a blotch free stain finish. 10 years ago Alder was really really popular here in new homes, and "older" carpenters couldnt believe it when they heard we were building custom homes/kitchens/doors out of Alder because it used to be the wood of choice for pallets. So they thought it was garbage.
Question: Could you plane each individual board 1 at a time, and then glue them all up together at once? Would that give a satisfactory result? Great project! Thanks!
That’s a just wrong the top will expand and contract across its width. Screwing it to the frame is bad construction. Not just Alder all woods need this consideration. The color looks awful . Alder doesn’t stain well. But Looks great natural.
👋Hey there it's Wes. If you have a project or specific woodworking question you would like answered, I can send you a
personalized video. Please go to www.woodworkingwithwes.com. I would love to help out...thanks.
After the dark stain, you can really see the effect of the round over routing. Beautiful. Thanks.
I really wish you would write a book with all this woodworking knowledge it would be the best woodworking book out there
Haha....I really appreciate your confidence in me. Gotta say, I am a lousy writer. Thanks for the kind words! Wes 😀
I fasten the tight screws in the center of the panel and then elongate to each side. Either way works, just it’s half the movement from center to edge.
Great job on cutting the video down to just show the important things.
You are so welcome...glad you enjoyed it! 😀 Wes
I have a quick question. I realize that the frame is underneath and won't really be seen but is there a reason that you didn't invert it so that the pocket holes would be up against the bottom of the solid wood top and, as a result, would then be completely hidden?
When was the last time you looked underneath your countertops in your kitchen?
@@truckguy6666 if you look at my question, I acknowledged that it wouldn't be seen. However, since it would have been just as easy to invert it, I was wondering what the rationale was for not doing so. In other words, trying to learn something.
He could have flipped it either way. I probably would have put the pocket hole side against the top. But I thinks it’s just a matter of preference.
I really enjoy your videos, Wes. One of these days, I'm going to try a solid table or counter top ... don't have the 'guts' yet.🤣 One question for you ... this is the second time I have seen you use that electric sprayer. Are you really satisfied with its performance and is it REALLY easy to clean up after use? I want to get into spraying finishes on my work and don't want to mess with air. Thanks ahead of time for any counsel on this.
Marty
Hi...I can't be more pleased with the performance and ease of clean-up. I think you would enjoy it! Thanks, Wes
I like the idea of the frame. Thanks!
Great...thank you for watching, Wes
Hi Wes, great video. On all of my panels I stain and finish all sides before assembly to minimize any possible stability issues.
I really appreciate that you demonstrate most techniques with average shop tools showing us all that high quality work depends on quality workmanship and knowledge as much as anything. Sure the fancy tools do save a lot of time if you’re needing to go fast, but it’s not always a requirement.
A question for you sir: when I utilize my thickness planer to clean up panels after glue up, I’ve found that my surface is very crisp and I can go straight to 120 or 150 grit sanding depending on the medium. So far it seems to be very effective and saves the effort. Am I missing something by not going to 80 grit first always?
I know what you mean. It’s so smooth, I just want to slap on finish. But then you’ll have the problem of softer grain rising. So we make it rise ahead of finishing then start with 80 grit. It’s one of those things most of us know and when reminded, are like “oh yea, duh”. 😂 like myself. Hope Wes replies to you. I might be missing something.
@johnwilliams1091
@kizzy3356
Hi...a quality planer would require less sanding. I include the extra step for those who need it. Thanks for watching, Wes
Enjoy woodprix woodworking instructions.
Fantastic explanation...welll done!
Thank you, I appreciate it! Wes
I really enjoy watching your videos. You encourage me to do more wood working. Would something like this work as kitchen counter tops?
Hi...yes that design would work well for a countertop construction. Just make sure you have a waterproof finish. If you need personalized help with that go to my website:
woodworkingwithwes.com/
Thanks for watching, Wes 😀
Hi Teacher Wes. Would you explain how you elongated the screw holes? I understand the principle but not the technique. Thanks again for all your advice and help. ✌🏽🙏🏽
After drilling the initial hole (and with the drill still running) I just rubbed the drill bit up and down until it created an elongated hole. Thanks for watching! Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes Thank you so much. ✌🏽🙏🏽
Cool video Wes...🤘🤘🤘
Thank you...I appreciate the comment! Wes
The worktop looks fabulous and a great technique for making it! Another great video Wes🔥🔥🔥🔥👌👌👌👌
Glad you like it! Thanks, John
Enjoy your stuff, Wes. Like this frame design. Will this method work for an L shaped bar top? two frames and tops joined with a 45 miter and dog bone fasteners.
Yes it will...good luck! Thanks for watching, Wes
We have hurricanes with power outages that last weeks. The humidity buckles the wood floors, makes the doors stick, and worst of all, causes the (even sealed) wood furniture to expand beyond what L brackets or figure 8 top attachments will allow. For me, this is brilliant. Powers out for more than two days, I’ll go under and loosen screws. May not save the finish but it’ll save the wood.
Thank you so much for your comment....I am glad this will help. Wes
That Alder is really grey! Here on the west coast we always use Red Alder, and I have never seen any other variants. That grain is unmistakably Alder though. Really a nice wood to work with. It sands/machines/glues really well. Sorta soft but thats OK. The real bear was getting a blotch free stain finish. 10 years ago Alder was really really popular here in new homes, and "older" carpenters couldnt believe it when they heard we were building custom homes/kitchens/doors out of Alder because it used to be the wood of choice for pallets. So they thought it was garbage.
Sorry the camera angle did not show the true alder wood color. Thanks for your comment. Wes
Question:
Could you plane each individual board 1 at a time, and then glue them all up together at once?
Would that give a satisfactory result?
Great project! Thanks!
Hi...yes, the boards can be planned individually, you would just have more seams to sand. Thanks for watching, Wes
Why didn't you use a wood conditioner before staining?
Hi...wood conditioner blocks the ability of the wood to fully absorb the stain color, so I am not a fan. Thanks for watching, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes Ok cool. That has never been my experience using wood conditioner.
I'm curious as to why you leave the comment section open but you don't respond to questions.
Not enough glue
How much is enough? As long as there’s a little squeeze out when you clamp it up.
That’s a just wrong the top will expand and contract across its width.
Screwing it to the frame is bad construction. Not just Alder all woods need this consideration.
The color looks awful .
Alder doesn’t stain well. But Looks great natural.