What was the point of oiling the rod bearings and installing the connecting rod on the crankshaft only to remove it so it can be installed on the piston?
Good question. We do this to ensure that the bearings are properly seated. We see at the shop that some customers skip this step and snap off their rod bolts or have a connecting rod failure. Since there parts aren't cheap and there's no warranty, we suggest this process. Thanks!
@@GoPowerSports finally someone who knows what they're doing. I like watching this stuff because always things are changing and different. All pretty much same but I keep up with everything. I do this stuff to pass time lol. God I have some 50s and 60s briggs I grew up with.
You have to seat the bearing with oil between the rod and crank no matter what to avoid scoring on initial start, it takes about 10 minutes to properly seat and check your clearance which will ensure the best dependability you can achieve with your new parts over the lifetime of the motor. I might oil my next one THREE times!!
He wanted to make sure it was well lubricated. You would be suprised. You have no idea how long that motor has been sitting in the warehouse with absolutely no movement whatsoever. That motor could very well seize up! So, again....he's taking extra precautions just in case! I hope this helps!
I would love to see back to back runs with the different cams on the stage 2 showing the different in how they make power at peak and down low for like the mod 2, the bp2, the hot 265, and so on. Maybe do like a graph over of all them
I can't believe this comment doesn't have more likes, this would be an incredibly informative video and aid alot of people in choosing the right cam for their application, no more needing to take this guys word or that guys word for it.
Ive watched this video 60 times to prepare myself for this project and it was very simple and straightforward! All the parts were exact and everything torqued properly! Turned my tilly into a monster!
@@waltwalt9632 I use to get the same questions when I was in high school assembling small blk Chevy v8. The answer, other human beings do it too.Take Your Time, Attention To Detail and Under Super Clean Conditions. It ran like a stripped ass ape and was very dependable. It was in the car 3yrs a lot of runs at drag strip. It was in car until I built something even badder.I asked a lot questions from people that knew. No one told me I couldn't do that. Roll your sleeves up, Attention to detail, never rush yourself.When that baby comes alive your neighbors might not like it LOL but can say I GOT THIS!
Hi!..Not sure who your guy is that made this video but he is thorough, precise,a great communicator and articulate! Give this young buck a raise AND A COMPANY CAR!!! This video is VERY precise and thorough....period! He does a great job and covers every detail! By far the best build video I have seen and being that I am 62 years old I have seen hundreds. Whoever owns Go Powersports needs to give this man a raise!!! A+++++++!
If you leave the rockers loose take the spark plug out and put some thin rope inside the cylinder you can torque that flywheel bolt to 65 ft lb if you don't have an adapter and then adjust your valves
Awesome work guys that’s a sweet engine build I need to get my hands on one of these engines look like they pack a punch be great for all these races I’m going to
I spent a full day adjusting, changing settings, rechecking, removing parts up to and including the engine from the frame, and more only to find out the Autolite sparkplug was defective (or just complete crap). Hopefully, if yout read this it will save you a day of pulling the start cable and some soreness.
Great explanation, but the one thing I will say is that Honda states and their service manuals not to tighten the coil down on the magnet with feeler gauges
The Tillotson 212 Engines already come with stiffer springs, no need to change them out. If you had a Predator 212 or 196 Clone equivalent, then you would need to swap out.
My Kit came with the wrong rod 3.303 instead of 308 it wasn't an option to choose the right one I still use it anyway. You got an estimate on power if you use the 26-pound springs that come in the kit with the hot 265 and 1.2 ratio heavy duty rockers
it's funny of all the engine mod videos i have watched this is the ONLY one that mentions the 12 point socket that you absolutely need to do anything with with the new rod.
Not a bad idea to drop a little oil around the cylinder while the piston is at the top and a few drops in the spark plug hole mainly because you don't know how long it has been sitting and even a bit more oil if it's going to sit awhile. Just to be sure, in most of the ones I have done I do break in first just to be sure the motor is good before I void the warranty. Yes, please don't use the $20 torque wrench of any type of work where accuracy is key. I see that a lot with twisted off bolts and stripped bolts from using a cheap torque wrench or a 50 year old wrench that has been dropped 500 times and never recalibrated
This is all tilitson but the video is listed under the predator 212 on GPS. Will stage 2 predator produce similar numbers? I just purchased the stage 2 for my 212 predator. Curious if I’ll net same tq and hp. Thanks
Any chance you guys could just get the filter adapters machined out a little more so a standard 3/8 socket could tighten the nuts? I have a small tool kit I keep with the bike and I can’t do anything with the filter adapter. Not even my 1/4 inch drive socket fits in there.
Thank you for the info was a huge help tonight. I am in proccess on a couple of the 212ee I bought from you guys with mega moto frames I did my friends engine tonight he will be so excited to see it we just need some carbs is all soon will a tct push one of these ok?
There wasn't a low oil sensor on this Tillotson, unlike the Predator, which is nearly identical. But the best method on a Predator 212 I've seen seemed to be: Simply cut the internal sensor wire & unbolt & remove sensor. No need to mess with the bolt, just leave that part as is.
There wasn't a low oil sensor on this Tillotson, unlike the Predator, which is nearly identical. But the best method on a Predator 212 I've seen seemed to be: Simply cut the internal sensor wire & unbolt & remove sensor. No need to mess with the bolt, just leave that part as is.
What push rod length is recommended for a stage 2 hemi 212 predator with the 265 hot cam im going to buy the kit but I’m unsure if I will have to buy new pushrods for the bigger cam lift
so I seen on the stage one kit with the predator 212 you set the valve lash to 0. I've ordered everything to make my predator 212 hemi a stage 2 minus the cam. Rod piston 18# springs. Stage 2 carb. My question is do I set the last back at 0 and when I get my hot cam set it a .003 or go ahead and set it at .003 when I install my new parts?
What’s a good clutch for this stage 2 motor for street cruising? I just ordered a rascal roller, and a stage 2 tillotson engine on your website today. Description says an upgraded clutch is recommended. I’m still new to mini bikes
the tuning of that intake manifold is leaving a lot on the table. The length of the runners has a direct correlation to the engines power curve. the longer the distance between the carb and valve the earlier the engine will want to make peak torque lower in the RPM range the shorter the runner the higher the rpm HP but less torque. This has to due with the "harmonic frequencies" reverberated back to the valve and forth. The easiest way to tune the proper length for that intake runner is to cut the center section out of the aluminum pipe and put radiator hose in there and run dyno sessions and cut it shorter until you have the optimal runner length. This is how Tunnel Ram was invented by the Ram chargers in the 60's. IMO you should also be running a PCV valve system for engine longevity as well, its an old myth that it robs power and dirtys things up, it actually saves engines by making sure there is always positive case ventilation and dirty air and un burnt fuel from Bowby doesn't settle in the case and mix with oil to eventually throw rods, it also makes sure the rings seal better and reduces windage from the crank. I even use them on my race car, and so does most of the race world (albeit specialized evac systems).
Why wasn't the governor sprocket removed from the crank? Is that crank balanced with that sprocket on it, and is that why he left it on? Can anybody answer these questions?
I have a 196cc Coleman ct200ex. I'm wanting to do some upgrades. Namely remove the governor. If I change the flywheel do I lose the headlight? Are there any other options for a higher rpm flywheel that retains the headlight?
Does that motor come with stiffer valve springs? I didn't see you change those... I was hoping to see how you did those... I had a devil of a time with those automotive-style keepers on mine!
This is the exact setup I bought from GPS. Put it in a Coleman BT200x with your juggernaut CVT. Only pulled to 6,900 rpm. Also have some belt slip. Stock 10/50 sprockets. Only ran 55 mph. Valve spring broke while at part throttle & bent a valve no other damage that we can find. GPS doesn’t know when they will get valves for the Hemi head. Thoughts?
I bought the stage 1 motor from GPS and added their stage 2 kit. I’m not a super experienced engine builder. Nothing was said online at parts order, with the parts, and nobody said anything about push rod length when I spoke with them at order. Appreciate you telling me. Also what sprockets might you suggest?
@@vernlochtefeld1626 I just looked at the stage 2 hemi tilly kit from GPS, looks like it comes with 26lb springs however doesn't include any of the supporting mods to run 26lb springs, such as chromoly pushrods, stainless steel valves, billet retainers, keepers and lash caps. If all you did to your head was install 26lb springs then this could be your problem, combined with the fact that the kit includes a .010" head gasket and if you used the exact set up in the vid then that means a .265 lift cam as well. Increasing the lift to .265 from stock and running a .010" head gasket which is .042" thinner than stock, means you have reduced your piston to valve clearance (also potentially rendering your pushrods too long which is problematic as well, stated by Lee). Did you check your piston to valve clearance? If you would've checked then you might have seen that you did not have enough clearance with such a set up to accommodate for valve float. And the hemi heads are much more prone to pistons touching valves then the non hemi heads. Just some food for thought.
We are currently holding off on the Stage 2 Racer Kits for the Tillotson Engines. Looking to modify the valve springs to add to this kit but waiting on springs to show up.
I bought an electric start 212 Tillotson with the intention of eventually building it. I have been told that I would have to do some heavy modification to a billet flywheel in order to use it withelectricstart. Can I use a billet flywheel if I'm not worried about the electric start? Or would it just not work? Also what mods can I do with the electric start without getting in over my head? Thanks!
Hey GoPowerSports, I want to go stage 3 on my Tillotson 212 hemi but have encountered a few problems and would like your opinion. I know you carry a valve train kit for the Predator 212 hemi, and I know that most of the parts are interchangeable between the hemi pred and hemi tilly, however the Tillotson has a 24mm exhaust valve while the Predator's is 25mm, meaning the valve train kit for the predator is not 100% compatible with the Tillotson. Wondering what can be done in this case? also will ratio rockers made for the hemi pred also fit on the hemi tilly? thanks and looking forward to your response.
What was the point of oiling the rod bearings and installing the connecting rod on the crankshaft only to remove it so it can be installed on the piston?
Good question. We do this to ensure that the bearings are properly seated. We see at the shop that some customers skip this step and snap off their rod bolts or have a connecting rod failure. Since there parts aren't cheap and there's no warranty, we suggest this process. Thanks!
@@GoPowerSports finally someone who knows what they're doing. I like watching this stuff because always things are changing and different. All pretty much same but I keep up with everything. I do this stuff to pass time lol. God I have some 50s and 60s briggs I grew up with.
You have to seat the bearing with oil between the rod and crank no matter what to avoid scoring on initial start, it takes about 10 minutes to properly seat and check your clearance which will ensure the best dependability you can achieve with your new parts over the lifetime of the motor. I might oil my next one THREE times!!
He wanted to make sure it was well lubricated. You would be suprised. You have no idea how long that motor has been sitting in the warehouse with absolutely no movement whatsoever. That motor could very well seize up! So, again....he's taking extra precautions just in case! I hope this helps!
I have a sneaking suspicion that he meant to PlastiGuage it. Whoops,
I would love to see back to back runs with the different cams on the stage 2 showing the different in how they make power at peak and down low for like the mod 2, the bp2, the hot 265, and so on. Maybe do like a graph over of all them
I can't believe this comment doesn't have more likes, this would be an incredibly informative video and aid alot of people in choosing the right cam for their application, no more needing to take this guys word or that guys word for it.
Red beards garage did something similar to this in the road to horsepower series on UA-cam
Ive watched this video 60 times to prepare myself for this project and it was very simple and straightforward! All the parts were exact and everything torqued properly! Turned my tilly into a monster!
Great job!
How is this simple? If you have to follow every one of those intricate details how would anybody ever complete this with no mistakes
@@Gone_rn because he doesn’t have to explain things lol he knows how to do it an can just get it done
@@Gone_rn my father did one with me when I was twelve and I could do them myself after the first time. It's not complicated, just follow the steps.
@@waltwalt9632 I use to get the same questions when I was in high school assembling small blk Chevy v8. The answer, other human beings do it too.Take Your Time, Attention To Detail and Under Super Clean Conditions. It ran like a stripped ass ape and was very dependable. It was in the car 3yrs a lot of runs at drag strip. It was in car until I built something even badder.I asked a lot questions from people that knew. No one told me I couldn't do that. Roll your sleeves up, Attention to detail, never rush yourself.When that baby comes alive your neighbors might not like it LOL but can say I GOT THIS!
Hi!..Not sure who your guy is that made this video but he is thorough, precise,a great communicator and articulate! Give this young buck a raise AND A COMPANY CAR!!! This video is VERY precise and thorough....period! He does a great job and covers every detail! By far the best build video I have seen and being that I am 62 years old I have seen hundreds. Whoever owns Go Powersports needs to give this man a raise!!! A+++++++!
32:14 is my take away (crankshaft stop). Thanks!
Thank you go powersports! For showing me all the cool sh*t my daddy never did! Lmaooo 🎉🎉😂
Awesome video. the proof is in the results on the dyno. 15 HP (50% increase) is impressive for bolt on parts.
Wouldn't it be closer to 101% increase? I know the predator 212 was 6.5hp and this makes 15hp. I may be wrong.
@@repnatl your probably right. Math is hard. ; )
@@tonyd7164 you must have used used common core that explains everything 😂😂😂😂😂
If you leave the rockers loose take the spark plug out and put some thin rope inside the cylinder you can torque that flywheel bolt to 65 ft lb if you don't have an adapter and then adjust your valves
Hey Taylor, how about a making video on custom length pushrods? Measuring, cutting and assembling.
I'm so excited I'm getting one like this in the spring.i bought my daughter a coleman so I'm going have to get something she can keep up with.
Can't wait to get my claws on a Tillotson 😍🦖
You Won't Regret it' I luv mine' even Stock it has great power/Torque an even sounds mean Stock'
Are you still looking for an engine to buy
Aww man.....You and me both!!!! Fully worked out!!!!
This whole video is quality. Very well done.
Awesome work guys that’s a sweet engine build I need to get my hands on one of these engines look like they pack a punch be great for all these races I’m going to
Right on! This is our go-to engine out here.
@@GoPowerSports heck at it’s a good one I need one to review on my channel just don’t have the funds for one yet but soon hopefully
THANK YOU!! For this you guys HIT all the important points that are WAY overlooked by the youtubers build it RIGHT!!(=
I spent a full day adjusting, changing settings, rechecking, removing parts up to and including the engine from the frame, and more only to find out the Autolite sparkplug was defective (or just complete crap). Hopefully, if yout read this it will save you a day of pulling the start cable and some soreness.
I can’t wait to get one of those Engines.
that was some fast work you made of that fine job
Great explanation, but the one thing I will say is that Honda states and their service manuals not to tighten the coil down on the magnet with feeler gauges
We use business cards :)
For a quick clarification, at 14:03 you're looking for 1.180
+/- 0.0005 aka 5 tenths or 5 ten thousands
So 1.1795 to 1.1805
.0005", Thanks!
@@GoPowerSports If you go on ARCs website it says +/- .0005
The total oil clearance is only .003
.005 is a lot of clearance. .0005 seems more realistic
Thank you for the catch!
Didn’t install the included valve springs that come with the stage 2 kit?
The Tillotson 212 Engines already come with stiffer springs, no need to change them out. If you had a Predator 212 or 196 Clone equivalent, then you would need to swap out.
For those looking for even more Horse Power Gain out of their Tillotson Engine, pick up our Stage 2 Performance Kit.
They have good power/Torque right out the box' an even sound mean Stock'.
My Kit came with the wrong rod 3.303 instead of 308 it wasn't an option to choose the right one I still use it anyway. You got an estimate on power if you use the 26-pound springs that come in the kit with the hot 265 and 1.2 ratio heavy duty rockers
@@leebrown6153 26lb springs shimmed to the correct spring height, hot 265 and 1.2 billet roller rockers should yield around 17hp
Wish they would make a billet flywheel with a steel ring gear for us that want to keep the electric start. In my application electric start is a must.
it's funny of all the engine mod videos i have watched this is the ONLY one that mentions the 12 point socket that you absolutely need to do anything with with the new rod.
Not a bad idea to drop a little oil around the cylinder while the piston is at the top and a few drops in the spark plug hole mainly because you don't know how long it has been sitting and even a bit more oil if it's going to sit awhile. Just to be sure, in most of the ones I have done I do break in first just to be sure the motor is good before I void the warranty.
Yes, please don't use the $20 torque wrench of any type of work where accuracy is key. I see that a lot with twisted off bolts and stripped bolts from using a cheap torque wrench or a 50 year old wrench that has been dropped 500 times and never recalibrated
I will definitely buy the prebuilt engine in November and my bike with out the engine im hyper
Very informative. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Hell yeah. I'm building a stroker motor
Taylor got that skill though!!!!! Lov ur company.....just bought this kit and got a 26mm mikuni.....cant wait! Keep makin all this cool content!!!!!!
Don't use synthetics for a break in .You can if you don't want your engine to properly bed in.Cheers from that winning country NZ
Jesus, this is a lot of work for someone thats not good with their hands. hope you sell these engine with the kit installed.
😂😂😂
Fire it up, fire er up, Fire er up fire er up😮
??? Would valvoline vr1 high zinc 10w30 race oil be a good alternative to 4t oil ???
Or if 4t oil is not an option what is a solid alternative oil???
Been out of stock for a year tho. Big problem, keep your items in stock!
Need to look into doing this to two of these on 1 kart
Can you make a list of tools and everything needed to complete this kit?
Yes, we can do that!
Will the 1/4 inch self tapping bolts fit in the governor holes and the oil sensor hole on a 224cc predator
Now do a predator 212 stage 2 install video!
It’s basically the same thing
@@kevinmiller5765 still would be a good video
Awesome video. I just put the stage 2 in my Tilly with the same carb.
I want to go stage 4 but it was out of stock.
What all do I need from here?
This is all tilitson but the video is listed under the predator 212 on GPS. Will stage 2 predator produce similar numbers? I just purchased the stage 2 for my 212 predator. Curious if I’ll net same tq and hp. Thanks
Any chance you guys could just get the filter adapters machined out a little more so a standard 3/8 socket could tighten the nuts? I have a small tool kit I keep with the bike and I can’t do anything with the filter adapter. Not even my 1/4 inch drive socket fits in there.
Outstanding video 👍 excellent
Thank you very much!
Thank you for the info was a huge help tonight. I am in proccess on a couple of the 212ee I bought from you guys with mega moto frames I did my friends engine tonight he will be so excited to see it we just need some carbs is all soon will a tct push one of these ok?
I just ordered a212 With the air cleaner kit and trumpet header for my doodle bug does the air cleaner come with the bigger jet
Great video! Hope to come buy a TIllotson 212 from y’all and hop it up!!!!!
I see the kit comes with a new head gasket to help compression. Why was it not installed in the video?
I am also curious. i just ordered this kit.
May I suggest that while the crankshaft is out remove the press fit governor gear. ?
Right on, we removed the governor gear.
Everything's OK, but I think the front fender needs to be raised higher.
You have an interesting channel, there is a lot to learn.
Hello from Russian.
Hello Russia! What's good in your neck of the woods?
@@GoPowerSports Everything is the same as always in Russia, I think there is no need to explain.
Do you have two seaters? Me and my wife loved it .reminds of when we were youngsters
You used x2 self tappers for governor but what about oil sensor hole?
There wasn't a low oil sensor on this Tillotson, unlike the Predator, which is nearly identical.
But the best method on a Predator 212 I've seen seemed to be:
Simply cut the internal sensor wire & unbolt & remove sensor.
No need to mess with the bolt, just leave that part as is.
There wasn't a low oil sensor on this Tillotson, unlike the Predator, which is nearly identical.
But the best method on a Predator 212 I've seen seemed to be:
Simply cut the internal sensor wire & unbolt & remove sensor.
No need to mess with the bolt, just leave that part as is.
What kind of compressions been rings does the tilton 212 hemi have in its stock are they 22 lb valve springs or 18 lb valve springs😊
What push rod length is recommended for a stage 2 hemi 212 predator with the 265 hot cam im going to buy the kit but I’m unsure if I will have to buy new pushrods for the bigger cam lift
stock length
Love the channel
Aww thanks!
1:40 if I have stage 1, and want to replace the air filter, can I take out the whole evaporator system and be fine
That black box may be discarded and your engine will run fine.
so I seen on the stage one kit with the predator 212 you set the valve lash to 0. I've ordered everything to make my predator 212 hemi a stage 2 minus the cam. Rod piston 18# springs. Stage 2 carb. My question is do I set the last back at 0 and when I get my hot cam set it a .003 or go ahead and set it at .003 when I install my new parts?
Is a advance timing key really going to help anything? Could it hurt power or is that like a special use case
how many lbs are the valve springs on a stock tilly 212?
Around 24lbs
Awesome Video!! Is it best to Break In the motor before installing any performance kits?
We personally like to install the new parts and then break in the motor with Break In Oil for atleast 30 minutes.
How fast can you get up too on a mini bike with this set up ?
Love it Taylor you help me build mine up here in Canada. Eh
What are those pink tubes for or were do they connected ?
Uh oh, you weren't supposed to see those.
Jk, those are vent tubes for the carburetor.
do i follow this video to installing the non hemi cruiser kit on predator 212cc? or do you have another video if not can you make a video?
What’s a good clutch for this stage 2 motor for street cruising? I just ordered a rascal roller, and a stage 2 tillotson engine on your website today. Description says an upgraded clutch is recommended. I’m still new to mini bikes
Just broke rod bolt, following all directions and well used 1/4 " torque wrench 😩
Ughh that's tough.. what was the remedy 😕 how do you get it out??
Can I use the vent filter kit from stage 1 on stage 2 also ?
You sure can!
Is for predator engines too? The website page for this kit for the predator leads me to this video. Thanks
why oil the crank case cover bolts?
I use ethanol free premium for my tilitson stage 1. What do you guys recommend?
We too use Ethanol Free Gas on all our engines. Unless they are drag minibikes, then we use methanol.
@GoPowerSports sweet thanks for the reply
Do you do this on the side? Could someone send you an engine with the kit and you assemble it?
the tuning of that intake manifold is leaving a lot on the table. The length of the runners has a direct correlation to the engines power curve. the longer the distance between the carb and valve the earlier the engine will want to make peak torque lower in the RPM range the shorter the runner the higher the rpm HP but less torque. This has to due with the "harmonic frequencies" reverberated back to the valve and forth. The easiest way to tune the proper length for that intake runner is to cut the center section out of the aluminum pipe and put radiator hose in there and run dyno sessions and cut it shorter until you have the optimal runner length. This is how Tunnel Ram was invented by the Ram chargers in the 60's. IMO you should also be running a PCV valve system for engine longevity as well, its an old myth that it robs power and dirtys things up, it actually saves engines by making sure there is always positive case ventilation and dirty air and un burnt fuel from Bowby doesn't settle in the case and mix with oil to eventually throw rods, it also makes sure the rings seal better and reduces windage from the crank. I even use them on my race car, and so does most of the race world (albeit specialized evac systems).
Why wasn't the governor sprocket removed from the crank? Is that crank balanced with that sprocket on it, and is that why he left it on? Can anybody answer these questions?
Can you have a stage 2 setup and still keep the electric start?
You can go up to the Stage 1.5.
www.gopowersports.com/stage-1-5-tillotson-performance-kit/
Is that oil there good for billet cam and for fast built motors?well it work for a 212cc predator
This oil will work for your application as well
I have a 196cc Coleman ct200ex. I'm wanting to do some upgrades. Namely remove the governor. If I change the flywheel do I lose the headlight? Are there any other options for a higher rpm flywheel that retains the headlight?
Great video would love on in metric
Does that motor come with stiffer valve springs? I didn't see you change those... I was hoping to see how you did those... I had a devil of a time with those automotive-style keepers on mine!
Yes, around 24lb valve springs.
@@GoPowerSports got any vids showing how you install those on the ducar\tillotsons?
Do you have to have a governor removed if you got a mikuni carburetor on a 224 or 212
Yes. Governor removed with Mikuni Carbs.
Cool thank you for that info
how many business card did you use on the coil ?
3. But all cards have different thicknesses
So after all this do you have to upgrade to a 40 series torque converter?
Do you need to add torque converter too or C. Clutch enough for it?
Can I use this video to installl my stage 2 racer kit onto my pred 212
why do we have to do that grinding compound thingy with the flywheel ?
It helps the 2 surfaces mate and join better. You don't want them to be off or you'll have a terrible wobble.
I'm gonna need some more business cards! 🤣
Pro tip - Put anti-seize on steel bolts going into aluminum parts
This is the exact setup I bought from GPS. Put it in a Coleman BT200x with your juggernaut CVT. Only pulled to 6,900 rpm. Also have some belt slip. Stock 10/50 sprockets. Only ran 55 mph. Valve spring broke while at part throttle & bent a valve no other damage that we can find. GPS doesn’t know when they will get valves for the Hemi head. Thoughts?
Change your gears and cvts don't rev high as regular clutches centrifugal clutches so you won't get the miles per hour unless you check your gears
And if you broke a spring your pushrods are too long
I bought the stage 1 motor from GPS and added their stage 2 kit. I’m not a super experienced engine builder. Nothing was said online at parts order, with the parts, and nobody said anything about push rod length when I spoke with them at order. Appreciate you telling me. Also what sprockets might you suggest?
@@vernlochtefeld1626 I just looked at the stage 2 hemi tilly kit from GPS, looks like it comes with 26lb springs however doesn't include any of the supporting mods to run 26lb springs, such as chromoly pushrods, stainless steel valves, billet retainers, keepers and lash caps. If all you did to your head was install 26lb springs then this could be your problem, combined with the fact that the kit includes a .010" head gasket and if you used the exact set up in the vid then that means a .265 lift cam as well. Increasing the lift to .265 from stock and running a .010" head gasket which is .042" thinner than stock, means you have reduced your piston to valve clearance (also potentially rendering your pushrods too long which is problematic as well, stated by Lee). Did you check your piston to valve clearance? If you would've checked then you might have seen that you did not have enough clearance with such a set up to accommodate for valve float. And the hemi heads are much more prone to pistons touching valves then the non hemi heads. Just some food for thought.
Hey guys.......what did u do for the valve cover vaccum tube???
Typically let it hang down under the engine since oil will spit out from it.
Are you using differential oil as the assembly oil??
So I'm planning a 26 mm carb and strate pipe on a 5hp tecumseh looks like carb exhaust and valve springs I could get maybe 7.5 put of er?
Someone needs to make and oil pump the can use the governor drive gear and fit where the governor drivin was
Someone has already made that couple years ago. It was a mini oil pump that ran off the crank gear.
What torque wrench are y’all using ?
Don't you wish you had a better fitting socket for those rod bolts 😮
Can these motors be ordered with these kits, or no?
They most definitely can, give us a call 866.846.5278 or email Paul@Gopowersports.com, thanks!
when you want to go fast but you know you're going to ruin your engine. He made it look easy!
Zoom zoom
whay did you change the fly wheel? is it positive? more Hp??
Higher rpms on a cast flywheel can result into explosion failure, so its best to switch to an ARC billet flywheel for safety.
Can stock head work for this exact build ?
I have a 212 it run and idols but it has to have the the back tire has too be off the ground and when I put it back on the ground it dies
I want to buy a stage 2 racer kit for my tillotson but when I go on your web site it isn’t there
We are currently holding off on the Stage 2 Racer Kits for the Tillotson Engines. Looking to modify the valve springs to add to this kit but waiting on springs to show up.
I bought an electric start 212 Tillotson with the intention of eventually building it. I have been told that I would have to do some heavy modification to a billet flywheel in order to use it withelectricstart. Can I use a billet flywheel if I'm not worried about the electric start? Or would it just not work? Also what mods can I do with the electric start without getting in over my head? Thanks!
Stock flywheel is rated for 10k rpm I believe so just get rod gaskets and carb
Who makes the tillotson motor???..is it the same as the predator??
The Predator and Tillotson manufacturers are different. Tillotson is much higher quality.
What size is the 1/4 inch 12 point socket for the bolts on the billet connecting rod? Is it 7mm?
Hey GoPowerSports, I want to go stage 3 on my Tillotson 212 hemi but have encountered a few problems and would like your opinion. I know you carry a valve train kit for the Predator 212 hemi, and I know that most of the parts are interchangeable between the hemi pred and hemi tilly, however the Tillotson has a 24mm exhaust valve while the Predator's is 25mm, meaning the valve train kit for the predator is not 100% compatible with the Tillotson. Wondering what can be done in this case? also will ratio rockers made for the hemi pred also fit on the hemi tilly? thanks and looking forward to your response.