LED Upgrade - Nicelite LED for Bicycle Dynamo Lamp
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- Опубліковано 3 сер 2024
- Nicelite LED bulb cycle lamp upgrade. The hub-dynamo powered headlamp on my Pashley Sovereign was rather underwhelming - so I decided to improve matters. Later, I decide to add a rectifier to reduce flicker. See the difference between a filament bulb, a LED working on AC, and a LED on rectified DC current.
LED bulb was a "Nicelite" 1w device.
Nicelite LED Bulbs - www.reflectalite.com/LEDpage.html
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Thank you much. I now know how to adjust the chain tension, the shifting, and how to upgrade the headlamp. You've done a pretty good job on your presentation. Much appreciated. My sovereign is in pretty good shape, and will be nice to set everything correct
Thank you for your kind comments, hope your Sovereign gives you many years of pleasure.
@@noble_wolf shifting from 2nd to 3rd results in 3rd gear skipping. Shifting from 4th to 3rd results in 3rd gear acting normal. I believe the cable is a little bit too tight. I hope you can verify. In second the little yellow line is just passed the blindspot. Shall I back it off a little bit.?
Actually a good video no annoying music and explaining what and how you did it 👍
Thank you
Impressed with your electrical knowledge, it’s something I can never grasp , well done.
Thanks, it's just basic stuff - I used to work in electronics and it was a hobby for a while fixing TVs and VCRs, I've forgot loads over the years but I still dabble every now and then.
Brilliant. I was idly thinking to do this with my Pashley and darned if there isn't your video right here!
Thank you. It made a big difference to visibility, but I'd use extra lighting on unlit roads/paths.
Or drill a hole in my Basta units reflector and wire in a 3mm led the opposite way round so both LEDs work alterately as the AC wave changes
Thanks for the info on led conversion, will keep to refer to at a later date. Happy night riding, take care
Thank you for watching. I try to avoid night riding if possible - but when I have to ride in poor light, I like to make sure I'm seen.
Thanks for the video. I have previously looked at nice light and was planning a similar project but just haven't got around to it yet. I'm planning a similar project but with a simple battery backup circuit. Its not that I particularly need battery backup but it will make an interesting project.
Thanks for your comment. Battery backup should indeed be a nice project, particularly if you regularly ride at night.
Excellent video and I might do this to my Sovereign, which has been fitted with a front battery LED lamp for some reason. Will have to see if the hub dynamo works first (it is minus wires so will need some investigating).
I've already replaced the Sovereign's seat post with an alloy version and fitted alloy bars also. Currently awaiting the GC1 grips. Interestingly the Raleigh Trekking Comfort roaster bars I used have a tad more relaxed angle to them and are a shade longer (nothing you'd notice visually) but certainly makes for a more comfortable ride and are less prone to steering wobble.
Thank you for your support. There are certainly a few areas where weight can be saved, and as the 'bars can make such a big difference to how a bike "feels" they're well worth experimenting with. Good luck with the hub dynamo, hope it's working OK (should be, they're usually pretty robust)
Im tempred to rectify mine but the flicker acts like a strobe and helps wake the driving dead up to see me so i may leave it.
Real video, a hero respect !!!
Thank you for your kind comment
I like how your light has the reflector around the light...but is it a spot right??!
ahhhh i didnt realise the pash got 700c, the raleigh got 28"
ive just bought the sister bike, the raleigh superbe 125th ani, could a wire be run to the rear light and earthed to the frame from there, or would you have to return the ground back to the dyno?
Do you think adding a capacitor to the dynamo would help the light stay on for a bit while not cycling? I have an led dynamo that doesn’t flicker when riding. But I’ve been pondering on the idea of doing this to my setup for when I’m riding at night.
I think a 1 Farad capacitor (sometimes used in computers) might work, without messing with battery backup, that might be an experiment for later in the year.
@@noble_wolf I've done a 1F capacitor before, on an old sturmey archer dynohub. Famous for being 2W instead of 3 and being much lower frequency than a tyre dynamo, the result was it took 20 seconds or so before the cap was charged enough for there to be enough current to light the LEDs. After a few minutes riding I'd park up and they'd die in five seconds. I think a tyre dynamo might work out better.
Wow this is the video i needed, i was trying my hardest to follow the bridge recifier, but you cut the soldering where you attached the capaciter so got a bit lost. Do you have a link to a video of someone making one.
Thanks for your comment. The capacitor can go anywhere, as long as it's across + and - , it's usually easiest at the rectifier but it could even go across the bulb terminals. The negative - is marked on most electrolytic capacitors, and higher capacity will give smoother output. Without the capacitor, there will still be flicker but at twice the frequency, so in theory should be tolerable at half the speed. Hope this makes sense ? If not, let me know and I'll find a suitable link
@@noble_wolf Just nervous with anythink electric as dont want to damage the light. this seems quiet detailed ua-cam.com/video/LD6RFOhJf68/v-deo.html
Ser. What the volts of diode .
Good afternoon, I have that lamp and I also have a Shimano dynamo. The lamp arrived without cables and I don't know how to connect it to the dynamo.
If the lamp has no cables, and it's the same model, there should be a pair of terminals where the bracket attaches (I think on mine, they are to provide feed for a rear lamp). If you're just feeding the lamp AC direct from the hub, just connect to those. If you're converting to DC for a LED though, then you'll have to isolate the lamp to make sure it doesn't "ground" to the frame, and be a bit creative where you fit the rectifier (I'd try to fit it inside the headlamp shell for neatness, then run the DC wires to the terminals).
sir do a video of night road test with your upgrade led headlights.
It's summer here, and light until after 10pm, so I might have to wait until later in the year for some darkness. It is certainly brighter, but the light seems to be designed more "be seen" than to see where I'm going on unlit roads.
What the volts of the 4pcs of diode you used in bridge rectifier?
The diodes were Germanium type, which allow a 0.2v drop across them (as opposed to silicon, which needs about 0.6v), allowing a higher dc voltage output.
From memory, I think their maximum voltage rating was 25v, but as long as they are rated higher than the dynohub's peak output, any standard diodes should be fine
Sir diode number
I can't remember the exact ones I used, but 1N400x silicon diodes would be fine to start with, very robust but you will lose a bit more voltage compared to Germanium.