Oil pan Success! Jeep TJ 4.0l oil pan, rear main seal, and oil pan gasket on a 2005 Jeep Wrangler.
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2020
- About 2 years ago, I recorded a video where I tried to get the oil pan off of my 2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. And I gave up. Man, everything is in the way of the TJ 4.0l oil pan, and I gave it a little effort and just threw in the towel.
Well TODAY I've remedied that! In the last few videos, I've pulled the hood off the Jeep, the drivers fender, replaced the valve cover gasket, pulled the exhaust, dropped the trans skid and oil pan skid and now FINALLY! I pulled the oil pan off. I ended up replacing the oil pan itself, along with the rear main seal, and the oil pan gasket, of course.
Links: (amazon links are affiliate links)
The Oilpan I bought was from Rock Auto. ATP is the brand. Here's the link to the product:
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....
I also ordered replacement exhaust manifold bolts. The part numbers are:
The threaded clips that go on the manifold: 6506546AA
and the bolts that go through from the y-pipe: 6505178AA
Felpro valvecover gasket: amzn.to/3ue5hG9
Felpro rear main seal kit: amzn.to/2RBmX1n
Felpro oil pan gasket: amzn.to/3hIr9Hl
Hope you enjoy!
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Strong work, my man! I'm fixing to do the same job here in a couple of days. Thanks for taking the time and being so encouraging.
For us home mechanics it’s definitely a job! but it’s doable! I’m glad you found my video helpful! good luck and thanks for watching!
I have an 05 TJ sport and I replaced the muffler (cat back) a year or two ago. The bolts on the flange joint were exactly as shown on yours... I was so confused and ended up cutting the pipe a few inches back from the joint, to get it out of the way, and and then drilled the bolts. Thanks for the video - these gaskets are due soon!
Glad you found it useful! I'm having other issues that I think are cat related. Considering just replacing everything from the precats on back. Thanks for watching!
Good job on the video! I do mechanic work from home and you helped me judge how long it he job should take me and how to get it done faster thank you brother!
Thanks! i’m glad it helped you out! i really took my time on this one and kept the stress down by not giving myself a deadline. but since i didn’t need to drive the jeep daily i could do that. Not everyone’s in that situation. it’s been a few years now and it’s still not leaking! must have gotten it right! thanks for watching!
Did my 99 TJ on the weekend, have removed the oil pan without removing the Exhaust or any other parts, it's been tricky and a challenge but got there in the end, I think putting it back on is going to be the test for me, getting those last 2 bolts in that are in the very hard to reach areas is going to challenge me & my patience (I'm an Aries...we don't do patience well) but I'm a determined woman and I won't give up, I can't give up, I won't be able to drive Gertie until it's done so....
Well if you got that oil pan off without removing the exhaust, you must be doing something right! congrats! I hope you manage to get Gertie back together without too much trouble. These jeeps sure can be frustrating, but I think they're worth it in the end.
@@SWBCrawler Oh it took a bit and all the while all I could think of was how hard it was going to be putting it back...I'll let you know how I go Haha
Thanks for the info, fixing to do this on my 05 Lj and have been looking for one specific to the year and a wrangler. 😎✌️
I'm glad I could help! And thanks for watching!
i realize Im kinda randomly asking but does anyone know a good website to watch newly released movies online ?
@Connor Zavier flixportal :D
@Andres Brett Thanks, signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) Appreciate it !!
@Connor Zavier no problem :D
Nice job.. thanks. I need to have it done to mine. I'm too old to do it myself..
i really don’t blame you! it’s a pretty involved job in my opinion. thanks for watching!
I bought a very clean project jeep and found many surprises. But it is a jeep and I know jeeps.
Yea, getting a used jeep is sometimes a gamble, but at least in this era, they were still easy enough to work on at home. The newer they get, the harder that's becoming.
Okay, do I'm looking "pull the lever" today to help my 18 yr old daughter get into her first vehicle and she wants a 2002 Jeep Sahara with the 4.0l. I as a responsible dad am researching the potential issues of such a purchase and what it will take for us (me) to repair and maintain to alleviate her costs. While you're videos are awesome and very entertaining, I'm not feeling the love of being a TJ owner(or more of a mechanic, I guess). I pray I'm doing the right thing. I know these engines are bulletproof and all but patience is an absolute necessity. Lol. The one we're looking at her 134,000. Guy wants $8k. Keep up the videos. I'm sure I'll need them. Maybe she and I can check you guys of on discord if it's open membership.
Yep. Discord is open to all. Thanks for watching! I'll say that the tj is quickly becoming a model that only those who are not afraid to get their hands dirty should consider. They're not bad to work on, but if you're not one to enjoy working on vehicles you may end up spending a lot of time, frustration, or money. I try to cover the problems and pitfalls in my videos so folks can get an idea of what these jobs really take to solve. Your mileage may vary. ;) The wrangler is a great vehicle, but not for everyone. I'd give that sahara a good look over on the underside. If you see grimey oil all over the engine and or transmission, it could have a leak similar to the one I fixed in this video series. Check for dings and scrapes while you're under there as that could tell you if the Jeep has been seriously off-road. And the frame.... There are holes in the frame for access to different bolts. Get your fingers into them and see if you can feel flaky rust inside. Or sediment collected at the low spots on the frame. Usually where the frame turns up to go over the rear axle is where you'll find it the most. After a day of wheeling my frame will have half an inch of muddy sediment right at that bend in the frame. There should be an access hole right above there see if you can tell if the frame seems extremely rusty there, or weak. That's one of the most common places they rust out. Good luck!
@@SWBCrawler thank you for the response. I'm certainly not afraid to get dirty. My middle son got into motocross... Never rode a motorcycle my entire life but there we are breeding the shell on a crf250r to change the water pump seals. I love a challenge but... Don't want to deal with exhaust system to change oil pan gasket lol. I'm watching videos because I already saw the signs of oil under oil pan. It's in my future for sure. She really wants it and the guy had records of the 2k he spent on the frame from American Steel so, good body good frame, I can deal with the peripheral fives.
@@pjbarta3862 So, in 02 the exhaust may have been a different design. It still crosses the oil pan, but may be easier to deal with than mine was. Im almost certain that the pre-cat's i had to deal with were not a thing on the 02. Just food for thought.
That Y-pipe with the 2 cats and 2 flanges is ridiculous. I had to cut the bolts and replace them. Hindsight, I wish I just grabbed the acetylene torch first before even trying to unbolt flanges
Had a friend run over a dead deer with his 2008 Chevy HHR (yeah, it was nasty) and it pushed the exhaust up cracking the flange gasket (it was probably on it's way out anyway). When I tried to remove the flange bolts, same problem, welded! It was definately done when assembled at the factory. So yes, it seems that welding exhaust bolts is a common practice with some car makers! And yes, it sucks!
Thanks and nice work. Did you have any leaks after replacing the RMC?
So far no! It's probably been a little over a year now. So far no new oil leaks! Thanks for watching!
I just unoscrewed the two mini cats and unhooked the exhaust. Then lowered it with a floor Jack . Besides the skid, which I used another floor Jack to lower and roll out, I propped the tranny up and Jeep with other Jack stands. Easy peasy. Don’t separate the flanges keep it intact. Just lower it from the front drop downs.
My 2004 was not welded.
Thanks for the comment! Mine was not that easy. ;)
@@SWBCrawler not easy at all! It took me a week and a half to get the two screws off the starter. That was the beginning. Lol
I just put in a new radiator and two hoses just to have a leak. I just fixed it as we speak. I’m learning as I go.
@@felishiadarling it's definitely a journey. :P. These tj/lj's are getting up there in age. They have their problems. Still easier to work on that a jk though. ;)
"Cakes taste good when you're done....rtv does not" LMAO!! Great PSA!!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Right? :D Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your informative video! May I ask you why you put rtv before putting the seal in? Is it necessary?
on the rear main seal? it’s to seal the halves of the seal together.
My 2004 4.0 Sahara stock exhaust was not welded together like that, I've had it apart before I got a new exhaust and it came right off. It did look the same though, I would say someone welded those nuts as a Loctite replacement.
Yea. There's no way it came from the factory like this. I'll have to deal with it someday, but this time I got away without it. ;) Thanks for watching! And thanks for the comment!
Mine were not welded but someone has done work under there because it had a 40 series Flowmaster until yesterday
Yea, i have trouble imagining that they would have been welded from the factory. I think someone tack welded them at some point, god knows why. Thanks for the response! And thanks for watching!
5:40 I had to use a dremel + air hammer to get the welded rear shock bolts off my 2001 Cherokee.
Wore goggles and plastic face shield to protect eyes.
They put tack weld so you bring it to them reach in there with a Sawzall or a cut saw, cut them, and then work the studs out with the hammer and replace obviously for people reading not for you two years ago
They were not welded mine looked like it but it was just a lot of rust buildup. Hope this helps!
These very much appear to be welded. I can't imagine why, but they are.
Nice man! Looks like a pain in the ass to get to. I would have cut that exhaust off lol
Oh i was tempted! hack that crap off, and run open pipes. Im sure it'll be fine :P
im shure u have a shirt that has all the oil that drips off the cam lul it was a tough job but taught me lots of things mainly that patience is key if u try 10 or 15 longer u can always find a solution to the prob
Yea.. this project has definitely been an exercise in patience! I did the valvecover, and the disassembly of the fender in two other videos. Now i'm still waiting on those exhaust bolts to come. Jeep's been down for about a month! Thanks for watching! And surprisingly, i had very little drip on me, because I drained the oil about a week before starting, and then it took another 2 weeks before I actually took off the oil pan.
Is there a benifit to using the threaded clips on the Y pipe to manifold or will a nut and bolt do? I cant find those clips listed anywhere.
i think the clips just make it easier to keep the nut in place while you’re trying to get things attached. i don’t see why you couldn’t use normal nuts.
My 2006 had removable bolts on, never seen the welded version you have.
Guess I'm just lucky... Thanks for watching!
I ended up cutting my exhaust off right at the oil pan to do mine. Couldnt loosen precat bolts - which when it came time to weld the pipe back together i had to remove fender, and cut flange bolts anyways. Kinda regret, I traded an oil leak for an exhaust leak. Its a jeep though, i suppose its not allowed to all be in perfect order. Anyone considering the repair its easy. FYI its suggested to use Anaerobic RTV for the main bearing cap instead of copper (it cures in oxygen free environments where standard rtvs dont)
Thanks for the tip, I didn't know about the rtv. I'm in the process of replacing the exhaust now. As it turns out. The stock exhaust is 2 pieces. And the two are, at least in my case, welded together when installed. They must be installed at the factory before the axles because there's no way to remove it without cutting it up. Luckily, the aftermarket pieces come in smaller sections.
@@SWBCrawler Ill eventually have to replace the exhaust as mine is just a temporary fix - have you come across any good deals on anything aftermarket? Seems exhaust parts for these TJs gets pricey pretty quick
@@joshpasstheaxe I went factory equivalent. Flowmaster y pipe and precats and cat as one kit. Dynomax muffler and tailpipe. The tailpipe us the piece that's different between the tj and lj iirc, so that was the part I had the most trouble finding from a vendor I trust. Quadratec has one. So do 4wd and 4wp.
130k miles, you're replacing oil pan, while you have it all apart, go ahead and replace the whole cat system. We got the Flowmaster, $230. Cut those welded bolts off, punch out the studs and just use new bolts and nuts to reattach the cat to muffler.
Yea, i thought about getting a whole new exhaust honestly. Replace the cats and the muffler all at once while its all apart. but unfortunately this project's already over budget. Im going to replace those exhause bolts at the manifold, so hopefully they'll come out more easily later, when i get around to replacing the y-pipe.
website to buy the masterflow?
right now i have my 98 tj 5 sp tranny out for a clutch-pressure job..rear main seal will never be easier my exhaust is a lot simpler than yours..i have prolly 4 " between the pan and the cross over pipe..the pan looks like it will drop don and slide back im scared LOL how hard is it to push the top half of the old seal out..did you stagger the joint on re- assembly ?? ima going to lie under it for a while a see i inspiration hits me jeep is on 4 jack stands right now so i can see and reach almost everthing thanks for the vid !
Hey! sorry i didn't respond sooner. I didn't have trouble getting the old seal
out. getting the new one in you need to be careful not to damage it. If you've got so much apart already. I'd say go for it!
So I have to assume you started this journey due to oil leaks from the rear seal area onto the bell housing? I am in process of having a mechanic do my 01 TJ 4L Manual because there is no way I have the skills needed for this master level fix but thats why I needed to do mine. Persistent small leaks that even swathing Permatex around the outside of the oilpan to bell housing join wouldn't hold off forever. So long story short did your work fix the leaks? My mechanic had similar issues with exhaust and I just let him cut and reweld it. It will all be rusted again soon and in time I'll just replace the exhaust. It seems like this job just messes with everything in the damn Jeep but if you don't do it the leaks get bigger and bigger as the seals age. I already expect that it has bumped and busted a radiator housing since that now shakes in my hands.... Just got mine back today - 1600$ and 3 days and the seal busted after 1 day of light driving and some beach so its back to be redone... Still love my Jeep and will do whatever it needs.
The truth is the 4.0 is hard to keep dry. You can do it if you keep up with these seals and whatnot, but there's a reason the 4.0l has a reputation for marking its territory. I did all of these seals because my engine has over 100k miles on it, it seemed like it was really due to have these seals replaced, AND it was seeping oil everywhere, the whole engine block was just a dry caked on oily mess. I'm glad I did it all because of the oil pan issue I found when I removed the oil pan and cleaned it up. In all I do not regret taking the time to do this work, but I also expect that even with as few street miles as I put on my LJ, the leaks won't be gone forever.
Did it leak?!
How many miles do you think a manual clutch would last for in a 2005 TJ?
so far so good! no leaks since i did this. and clutch life depends heavily on the driver. i’ve seen them last 100k.
I am working on my 1999 right now and I can’t get those back to rear bolts off any tips?
Just light it all on fire...
No seriously though. They're a pain. I had to get the wire loom/conduit pulled up and out of the way. Then you more or less need to get to it by feel. It's a real pain to get to.
what did you lubricate the upper main seal with to get it back into position? (the one you have to use a punch to get out)
things were so oily that i didn’t. but i would probably use motor oil.
@@SWBCrawler perfect okay. thank you for getting back to me!! very much appreciated. tackling this job 2 weekends from now
HOLY COW! Look how dirty under your Jeep. How can you do anything with that thick of a crust??
Your entire oil pan gasket must have been leaking as well as your rear main.
Yea, the leaky rear main really made a mess down there, i've cleaned it up a bit since.
I have a 2005 jeep wrangler and my mechanic told me he had to movethe transmission back to get to the RMS. I dont think he knows what he is talking about or trying to over charge me. What do you think?
i didn’t have to move the transmission back. but i know on some cars you do. so maybe your mechanic isn’t familiar with the tj? if you’ve got a 4.0l it should be the same as mine. they use a two piece rms. which means you don’t need to separate the engine from the transmission to get the rms out.
Dude your starter...
... is covered in layers of grime and oil. Yes :P
What front bumper are you running?
I built it, loosely based on crawltek, but 100% built by me. I did a few videos on the build. It starts here: ua-cam.com/video/5_6t6cVG_a8/v-deo.html
My 05 has nuts on the other side. I was amazed when I saw yours . Ugh
Right? Who the heck does that?! Thanks for watching!
One suggestion...Pressure clean FIRST
Lol. Noted.
What a pain, I think I will just put out a drip pan underneath the jeep in my garage.
this is also an option! thanks for watching!
Is your ring made of wood? It looks similar to mine lol. My buddy made me a ebony wedding band for my wedding.
Nope. It's a rubber ring from enso rings. I have a nice wedding band but this one is much safer for when I'm working with my hands. It's also not expensive to replace if I damage it.
That thing needs a pressure wash for step #1 lol
Yea. I try to do a good job of keeping the mud at Bay. But the oily grime is another case. Thanks for watching!
That is not normal. Mine is not welded.
I ended up replacing everything from the manifold on back. Had to break out the plasma cutter.
Thanks for watching!
And then the most important part of the video you don’t even record you talk your way through it😂
I don’t think you should be clamping on the machine surface of the side of the bearing cap😂
1. work with what ya got man. 2. its not like the bearing rides on the SIDE of the cap. 3. It wasn't in there all that tight. It wasn't marred or anything. Thanks for watching!
"One of the best jeeps ever was designed by morons" - This is what I was thinking when I replaced my heater core and AC core on my 2000 TJ. I have to do this procedure as I have a leak between my oil pan and transmission. Idiots didn't even think of putting a drain hole in the damn transmission for fluid swaps.
yea i'll never understand why the trans doesn't have a drain plug. seems common on auto transmissions though.
That’s about the filthiest undercarriage I have ever seen.
It was slowly leaaking oil for about 2 years. It's much better now
Engineered for ease of construction, not for you to work on.
Ain't that the truth.. Thanks for watching!
Dude. What a mess.
right? this is a messy job
Can you please just like show how to do it without all the griping.
It's not welded on, you just don't know what you're doing
Thanks for the constructive feedback. I'll admit there are plenty of cases where I'm learning on the fly. But I assure you. The nuts on my exhaust were in fact tack welded to the flange. I ended up having to cut them to get the exhaust off. I don't know who welded them there, but they were. Thanks for watching.