Thanks dude. Considering this saw, appreciate you showcasing it and walking through the process of playing with it. I use saws every day but don't know much about them. Thanks for sharing your experience.
it is common with many manufacturers these days, they all tune their saws rich from the factory for break in but with no instructions to tune as it breaks in, I guess they probably want you to bring it in to an authorized dealer for that....
I run the 2511 as well on of the best upgrades in my opinion if a panther bar and switch to 1/4 pitch with low profile chain. Monkey beaver sells the kits 👌
I HAD to pull limiters on my 3510. Break in power increase was dramatic once the rings fully seated. Mine tended to get richer as time went on (assume more crankcase vaccum) Dialed it back to appropriate after 10 or 12 tanks, went to a stihl yellow chain, and it runs like a scalded dog for a 35cc saw. Echo does the power/weight ratio thing very well. Plasticky saw but its worth it for a brusher/trail saw/atv saw.
I run these daily. When the chain is right and not too grabby it’s awesome. I’ll keep using it probably too long. All limbs gone and chunking a log down at 10-12”. In a track lift most often so once to that point very easy to just come down and swap to a 201 with a 16”, or echo 620 if there’s a lot to do. We use the 620 because we put a full wrap handle on it so it hangs on the basket really nice. We throw the smaller saws into a mounted bar holder.
If i had to guess, the chain sharpening was the single biggest difference. And even with that, the cuts on the bigger log went from 6 seconds stock to 5 seconds with the muff mod, carb tune, and chain sharpen.
Awesome man, thank you, I do have some new stuff coming, actually a few that have already been filmed, just been a little crazy in my area with the winter storms lately and I been honestly too busy to sit down and edit.
Well that's kinda hard to answer since I used the grinder, if I had to put a number to it, using just a regular drill bit I would say the hole in the baffle is around a half inch. And as for the tuning, there definitely is no way to answer that, unless I get a tachometer. I just kept cutting with it and making tiny tiny adjustments on the carb until it seemed to be just right
"Dramastic", I love it am totally adding that to my vocabulary! "starts easily now" I'd LOVE any elaboration on this, I'm "an echo guy" and a big part of that is that they've always been zero-fuss startups for me, my polesaw / 355t / 590 have never ever been problematic w/ startup, but the 2511t I just got -- not even tuned yet, or muff altered yet -- it is weird/anomalous insofar as needing >1 pull for choked-turnover, and oftentimes >1 pull from there for true startup (fast-idle speed startup of course) This is *not* the case w/ the 355t/590/ppt266...I've gotta fathom this is tune&muffler but can't really tell (guess it's hard to tell much of anything b4 break-in is done, mine's on tank 3 still idling and mini-cuts only, echo's exhibit a TON of break-in gains and the 2511t muffler-mod-responsiveness seems nearly identical to that of the 355t (IE choked to open-can basically, sadly looks like little room for any real scavenging am hoping there is will see I'll have mine off to work on it today) Gonna need to check your library because that 440/660 w/ "pipe muffler" is totally one of my biggest interests right now (for my pair of chinesium 660's, maybe even the cs590 I mean if&when I can find a way to simply blueprint my pipes & go see a welder, I can't see any reason not to do every one of my groundsaws...is it true the noise-level of these "l-pipe" or 'bearclaw' pipe mufflers is not anomalous **compared-to** a modded OEM can? IE both are basically offering minimal muffling, but *some* muffling! This video was great, +1'd and subscribed, had to watch through nearly half-dozen 2511t videos to get "an idea" of what to expect when I go to remove & configure the muffler on mine, am hoping you have more 2511t vids it's always nice when you get something like a 660 and realize @Scott Kunz 's whole porting series uses it as-example, or to big-bore said 660's and get to watch Iron Horse's efforts & final triumph w/ them....hoping you have more 2511t content & definitely gonna go see what 44*/66* content you've got, thanks a ton!!
Man am I stoked to see your other 2511 and/or 660(or 440, so similar) content, I KNOW you'll have *some* but not moving forward just yet, have to get my 2511t to 10 tanks (will take all day, with how fuel-efficient it is with OEM-tune, just spark-plug pulled, running low 40's:1 Red Armor in eth-free), once I do its muffler *and* finish top-end #3 for one of my clone-660's, *then* I can get to work on grander plans for the 2511t, I was VERY stoked to see upon re-watch that your gains seem to match "custom-built" mufflers for the 2511t IE nearly 20% or at least 15% HP gain over 10% torque gain, with some other work these things should scorch!! I suspect that, even if you only widened-up the OEM muffler outlets, and tuned it right & removed that screen, that you'd have gotten a good portion of the gains (I have to stress "widening up OEM", to me, means ensuring that my new, widened exit is not choked-off by an internal baffle that's smaller-than it, I'm very much like you in that I see too many going too-far with muff mods, I do not want to defeat scavenging or backpressure - or even sound-dampening, entirely - but with echo's the break-in, and subsequent leaning-out, and removal of OEM choke-points, seems to give a reliable >10% to their powersaws! Thanks again for the great vid it's awesome seeing someone legitimate calling it worthy of topping a tree despite not having that quarter-pitch conversion or even timing advance or anything further than muffler, and I've got a 355t for heavier cuts anyways I just wanted to see my 2511t be "more useful" so it can be used more, I'm a small guy so small climbsaws are a god-send for me, power//weight is everything and despite the fact that larger displacement almost always means better horsepower-per-CC, the 2511t at 25cc's actually slightly edges out the 355t (8lbs//2HP) which is very impressive, the 355t is nearly identical to 200/201t Re power//weight spec am surprised they're not far more popular, good to see Echo come crushing it with this 2511!!
Hi. I enjoyed the video. I'm a little unclear on some of this. I drill a hole into the baffle that is already there and I drill kinda diagonally upwards? Also for the tuning, you didn't show how to do this in this video. What did you do? You pulled out the two plugs? Then what do you do? Thanks I'm really new to all this. I really like my 2511 but it's bogging down far too easily.
Hey Max, I came across your video and really appreciate the content. Your before and after of the echoes change in power is probably the best I’ve seen yet. As an arborist I picked up a 2511 about four months ago when my 201 went down and had to go in for repairs. I’ve been wanting to get one for a while and always planned on modifying the muffler like everyone does. I went to get it returned and the first place it wouldn’t stay running, the other place tuned it and now it will stay running but if I shut it down and go to restart it no amount of pulls will get the Saw restarted until I opened up the throttle wide and then it starts on the first pull. Obviously this is a dangerous starting technique on a one-handed saw up in a tree. Do you have any ideas? I have taken the limiters off and could do some minor adjustments but have no idea whether Its starving itself out, Or getting too rich a mix. Open to any suggestions at this point
Jonathan Gantt not yet, just posted this morning..hoping for a simple fix. Maybe this is why the ignition timing has to be advanced..just a shot in the dark
Mine is exactly the same way now, and I haven't found a simple solution, but to be honest I haven't been trying that hard. For me starting it with the throttle cracked is not really an issue, I guess if one was worried about the safety of it you could start it with the chain brake on?
chainsawfaddiction Very interesting, I’d love to figure out what it is. I do start it now with the chain break. In the most precarious of balance situation‘s in Smallwood the top of the tree it’s nice to be able to not have to fiddle with just one more thing such as removing the chain break before running it. My plan has been to take a small screwdriver up and try reaching the low a little bit to experiment once it’s had a chance to get warmed up. I’ll keep you all posted
Yeah do let me know because I have spent literal hours trying to tune it in to where it would run properly and restart properly, and just finally gave in that I gotta goose the throttle to start it
A square grind gives you LESS material behind the leading edge, hence why it cuts better and is sharper, and why it blunts faster. More material behind an edge isn't sharper, I guess you misspelled. Happens.
Mr. Max, very nice delivery and great content. I subscribed. I appreciate the detail and ideas on how to make the CS2511 even better. Thank you. 🙂
Thanks dude. Considering this saw, appreciate you showcasing it and walking through the process of playing with it. I use saws every day but don't know much about them. Thanks for sharing your experience.
No problem 👍
Fantastic video! I have a 355T and you basically described my exact issue with breaking in, running rich, blocking the exhaust screen and stalling.
it is common with many manufacturers these days, they all tune their saws rich from the factory for break in but with no instructions to tune as it breaks in, I guess they probably want you to bring it in to an authorized dealer for that....
I run the 2511 as well on of the best upgrades in my opinion if a panther bar and switch to 1/4 pitch with low profile chain. Monkey beaver sells the kits 👌
I HAD to pull limiters on my 3510. Break in power increase was dramatic once the rings fully seated. Mine tended to get richer as time went on (assume more crankcase vaccum) Dialed it back to appropriate after 10 or 12 tanks, went to a stihl yellow chain, and it runs like a scalded dog for a 35cc saw.
Echo does the power/weight ratio thing very well. Plasticky saw but its worth it for a brusher/trail saw/atv saw.
Nice I’m ordering one tomorrow
I run these daily. When the chain is right and not too grabby it’s awesome. I’ll keep using it probably too long. All limbs gone and chunking a log down at 10-12”. In a track lift most often so once to that point very easy to just come down and swap to a 201 with a 16”, or echo 620 if there’s a lot to do. We use the 620 because we put a full wrap handle on it so it hangs on the basket really nice. We throw the smaller saws into a mounted bar holder.
Man I have the 620pw it's my favorite saw
@@leemorgan558 we had ours ported now dude. Talk about a beast!
If i had to guess, the chain sharpening was the single biggest difference. And even with that, the cuts on the bigger log went from 6 seconds stock to 5 seconds with the muff mod, carb tune, and chain sharpen.
Good stuff man. I've subscribed
Awesome man, thank you, I do have some new stuff coming, actually a few that have already been filmed, just been a little crazy in my area with the winter storms lately and I been honestly too busy to sit down and edit.
@@chainsawfaddiction5918 sounds good ... I know what you mean about footage piling up :)
Good job. Saw sounds great . What size hole did you drill on the baffle ? And whats ur tunning set at ?
Well that's kinda hard to answer since I used the grinder, if I had to put a number to it, using just a regular drill bit I would say the hole in the baffle is around a half inch. And as for the tuning, there definitely is no way to answer that, unless I get a tachometer. I just kept cutting with it and making tiny tiny adjustments on the carb until it seemed to be just right
"Dramastic", I love it am totally adding that to my vocabulary!
"starts easily now" I'd LOVE any elaboration on this, I'm "an echo guy" and a big part of that is that they've always been zero-fuss startups for me, my polesaw / 355t / 590 have never ever been problematic w/ startup, but the 2511t I just got -- not even tuned yet, or muff altered yet -- it is weird/anomalous insofar as needing >1 pull for choked-turnover, and oftentimes >1 pull from there for true startup (fast-idle speed startup of course) This is *not* the case w/ the 355t/590/ppt266...I've gotta fathom this is tune&muffler but can't really tell (guess it's hard to tell much of anything b4 break-in is done, mine's on tank 3 still idling and mini-cuts only, echo's exhibit a TON of break-in gains and the 2511t muffler-mod-responsiveness seems nearly identical to that of the 355t (IE choked to open-can basically, sadly looks like little room for any real scavenging am hoping there is will see I'll have mine off to work on it today)
Gonna need to check your library because that 440/660 w/ "pipe muffler" is totally one of my biggest interests right now (for my pair of chinesium 660's, maybe even the cs590 I mean if&when I can find a way to simply blueprint my pipes & go see a welder, I can't see any reason not to do every one of my groundsaws...is it true the noise-level of these "l-pipe" or 'bearclaw' pipe mufflers is not anomalous **compared-to** a modded OEM can? IE both are basically offering minimal muffling, but *some* muffling!
This video was great, +1'd and subscribed, had to watch through nearly half-dozen 2511t videos to get "an idea" of what to expect when I go to remove & configure the muffler on mine, am hoping you have more 2511t vids it's always nice when you get something like a 660 and realize @Scott Kunz 's whole porting series uses it as-example, or to big-bore said 660's and get to watch Iron Horse's efforts & final triumph w/ them....hoping you have more 2511t content & definitely gonna go see what 44*/66* content you've got, thanks a ton!!
Man am I stoked to see your other 2511 and/or 660(or 440, so similar) content, I KNOW you'll have *some* but not moving forward just yet, have to get my 2511t to 10 tanks (will take all day, with how fuel-efficient it is with OEM-tune, just spark-plug pulled, running low 40's:1 Red Armor in eth-free), once I do its muffler *and* finish top-end #3 for one of my clone-660's, *then* I can get to work on grander plans for the 2511t, I was VERY stoked to see upon re-watch that your gains seem to match "custom-built" mufflers for the 2511t IE nearly 20% or at least 15% HP gain over 10% torque gain, with some other work these things should scorch!! I suspect that, even if you only widened-up the OEM muffler outlets, and tuned it right & removed that screen, that you'd have gotten a good portion of the gains (I have to stress "widening up OEM", to me, means ensuring that my new, widened exit is not choked-off by an internal baffle that's smaller-than it, I'm very much like you in that I see too many going too-far with muff mods, I do not want to defeat scavenging or backpressure - or even sound-dampening, entirely - but with echo's the break-in, and subsequent leaning-out, and removal of OEM choke-points, seems to give a reliable >10% to their powersaws!
Thanks again for the great vid it's awesome seeing someone legitimate calling it worthy of topping a tree despite not having that quarter-pitch conversion or even timing advance or anything further than muffler, and I've got a 355t for heavier cuts anyways I just wanted to see my 2511t be "more useful" so it can be used more, I'm a small guy so small climbsaws are a god-send for me, power//weight is everything and despite the fact that larger displacement almost always means better horsepower-per-CC, the 2511t at 25cc's actually slightly edges out the 355t (8lbs//2HP) which is very impressive, the 355t is nearly identical to 200/201t Re power//weight spec am surprised they're not far more popular, good to see Echo come crushing it with this 2511!!
Hi. I enjoyed the video. I'm a little unclear on some of this. I drill a hole into the baffle that is already there and I drill kinda diagonally upwards?
Also for the tuning, you didn't show how to do this in this video. What did you do? You pulled out the two plugs? Then what do you do? Thanks I'm really new to all this. I really like my 2511 but it's bogging down far too easily.
Put a 12in bar and chain on it night and day differnce
Hey Max, I came across your video and really appreciate the content. Your before and after of the echoes change in power is probably the best I’ve seen yet. As an arborist I picked up a 2511 about four months ago when my 201 went down and had to go in for repairs. I’ve been wanting to get one for a while and always planned on modifying the muffler like everyone does. I went to get it returned and the first place it wouldn’t stay running, the other place tuned it and now it will stay running but if I shut it down and go to restart it no amount of pulls will get the Saw restarted until I opened up the throttle wide and then it starts on the first pull. Obviously this is a dangerous starting technique on a one-handed saw up in a tree. Do you have any ideas? I have taken the limiters off and could do some minor adjustments but have no idea whether Its starving itself out, Or getting too rich a mix. Open to any suggestions at this point
Having same issue with 1…. Did you figure yours out?
Jonathan Gantt not yet, just posted this morning..hoping for a simple fix. Maybe this is why the ignition timing has to be advanced..just a shot in the dark
Mine is exactly the same way now, and I haven't found a simple solution, but to be honest I haven't been trying that hard. For me starting it with the throttle cracked is not really an issue, I guess if one was worried about the safety of it you could start it with the chain brake on?
chainsawfaddiction Very interesting, I’d love to figure out what it is. I do start it now with the chain break. In the most precarious of balance situation‘s in Smallwood the top of the tree it’s nice to be able to not have to fiddle with just one more thing such as removing the chain break before running it. My plan has been to take a small screwdriver up and try reaching the low a little bit to experiment once it’s had a chance to get warmed up. I’ll keep you all posted
Yeah do let me know because I have spent literal hours trying to tune it in to where it would run properly and restart properly, and just finally gave in that I gotta goose the throttle to start it
A square grind gives you LESS material behind the leading edge, hence why it cuts better and is sharper, and why it blunts faster. More material behind an edge isn't sharper, I guess you misspelled. Happens.
Just take 2 drywall screws and back out the carb blockers .remove them?
That would work as well yes, but be careful tuning, makes it pretty easy to lean it out to far.
mod everything including your can opener
Where did you find a square file ?
My local Stihl dealer has them, but only if you ask, they are not on the shelf. I bought a dozen of them on Amazon, Pferd brand.
Is that a 14 or 16 inch bar and chain?
That is a 14" bar
You talk alot. 90 percent of your video is wasted talking with no information