Huge bummer on the clutch...we were planning on this being a crazy ripping vid but that’s just how this stuff goes can’t complain too much. Anyways, we are going to be getting back to the turbo build in the coming weeks so stay tuned for that! As far as clutch troubleshooting goes we found that the clutch mechanism is shared with some KTM bikes, in particular the 76 Penton 400. I couldn’t find an exact diagram but I found on a forum that those used a ball between the two rods. Let us know if you think ours had one!
Maybe reach out to Barber Motorsports museum www.barbermuseum.org/plan-a-visit/contact-us/ These guys restore and have bikes from old steam wood bikes all the way up to a H2R. I'm sure they might could answer the question or maybe have a diagram. Couldn't hurt to ask.
Dudes use a hydralic set up from an old kz900/z900 and you can swap in hydraulic set up to push that rod in. That and may be able to modify z1enterprises needle bearing clutch "mushroom". At least then you can get parts and have hydraulics and yes there should be a ball bearing in between the rods so they dont sieze. I have a kz750 clutch rod that welded itself to the ball bearing so not uncommon
i know a few lathe masters on youtube that offer a dencent price on stuff like this. its a rare gem of an engine and I'd imagine ThisOldTony AvE or waterjet channel would be willing to help.
If there was a ball and you didn't remove it, it may still be in there somewhere. You may need to open the casing up to verify, else risk a FOD incident.
I googled in german and found some information about the clutch of the Herkules W2000. It apparently has the design flaw of having a too small movement overall. This leads to the clutch not properly disengaging(hard to put it gears) or slipping on the other hand. The cam easily wears, which makes this problem worse. Yes, there must be a small ball between the two rods, I got the same on my bike and I believe it's very common. You should be able to see a round dent in the two pushrods. Do not extend the rods, but use a ball instead. It acts as a bearing and seperates the non rotating cam from the rotating clutch. best regards DerKrawallkeks
@@BuildBreakRepeat No problem. Put a ball in it, see how it is. If you got any further question, I actually have a friend who owns this motorcycle fully restored, so I could ask him some stuff if really neccessary.
"It apparently has the design flaw of having a too small movement overall" If there is extra travel room for the clutch they could modify/make a new lever to get some extra movement and solve that problem.
THERES SUPPOSED TO BE A BALL BEARING BETWEEN THE TWO RODS.. IF YOU DIDNT PUT IT IN ORIGINALLY THE SHAFTS WILL WEAR INTO EACH OTHER CAUSING UR FAILURE.. GOOD LUCK GUYS.. LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND OUT...🤞.. THAT KART IS AWESOME..
I'm a machinist by trade but fair warning I'm only 16(osha cert and everything) However, I am pretty confident that I could machine a similar push rod given proper prints/dimensions of the rod. the disappointing part is that school just got out, assuming they still haven't found a replacement by the time I get back in school I would be happy to make one and ship it out to them. If they respond to this I can make an attempt at getting access to a lathe over break. No promises tho sadly.
Connor Pigeon they could easily buy stainless rod and de-burr the end with a dremmel, I think it just needs a ball bearing replacement. Machinist by trade ? You’ve done 10,000 hours of solid machining work? Machinist? I don’t doubt you have access to a tool shop and maybe that’s what you should say.
Lol no need for cnc. Looks to be just round stock. Can probably find close or exactly what you need online. At most it looks like you would need a manual lathe
Oscar Muffin yes you do need a lathe to make engine components, I don't think you want to use a dremmel when dealing with tolerances less than .001, I'm not saying a dremmel won't work but this is literally why I'm in school and going to be employed for..... precision machining, that would very much include any part of this engine or any other engine
My 78 Kawasaki had the clutch pushrod press in on a ball bearing that would engage the clutch basket. That ball bearing was supposed to be pretty much completely engulfed in high temp grease. Gig 'em!!
Definitely seen most shaft operated clutches like this one use ball bearings. I've seen them used at both ends of the rod. Measure the thickness of the rod & find ball bearings to match
I've definitely had a ball bearing in a clutch push-rod, may have been a Kawasaki or KTM....so I would have thought it's a strong possibility. But, where did it go ???
Sounds like the same thing is happening that happens with the KAWASAKI KZ 900/1000 clutch`s.pulling in the clutch after running hard heats up the components and welds the ball bearing and rod together...The fix for them is a needle bearing pusher stops the welding of the parts...
The ball bearing is there so the spin isn't transfered to the pushrod. Should also be a flat needle bearing between the clutch pressure plate and the clutch adjustment the pushrod goes into, which i can see you do not have, and that's probably why it welded itself together
Don't mind at all if it runs long on episodes. I love the work you guys are putting in. Keep up the good work. It's awesome the work you're putting in to all the builds.
I do not know that engine but is it possible to use a one piece push rod that makes up the entire length you need? If not, I would think the other posters ball bearing idea should work.
You guys got something SUUUPER unique here. Any content you post is more than welcome. You're right it is really interesting. Don't shy away from any sort of content involving this rotary kart. Your subs will let you know when enough is enough. Till then keep em coming and clean up that livery paint job! It's too cool to leave halfassed.
This schould be the Partslist you are looking for: Sachs Nr.: 338.6/3 D-E-F But i could not find any further information. Only a german onlineshop who sells this list for about 12 dollars. Greetings from Germany
You know what would be really sick especially once you guys get the clutch all dialed in. Turbo that thing... super simple set ignition timing. It'll be a little lazy when not in boost and have a draw through carburetor setup... that thing would haul ass.
We like to watch you drive things and watch you work on things. (I know; you would prefer the reverse order of my statement). The clutch failing does suck. You'll fix it!! Thanks for taking us on this wild ride!
Honestly they should make a kart racing class for this, like company's remake the rotary engine so it's more available and have karts with them it would be sick honestly
Awesome build! The 787 paint scheme is brilliant. Just one suggestion... flip your steering wheel. The flat bottom is to give you a little more leg clearance😊
We had a similar disengagement system on Speedway bikes and I was constantly working on them. So I believe you are correct regards a ball bearing (or hardened roller) between shafts. The other thing is to harden the shaft ends sufficiently, too hard they eat bearings and plates, too soft and they get eaten. Personally I found heating to a dull cherry color the quenching in oil worked best.
usually I adjust 2-stroke motocross engines, and they all have 2 rods inside and a ball between them that separates them, this serves to keep them from breaking, a single rod would be too long and could break due to the vibrations and torsion caused from the clutch basket. try to insert a ball between the 2 rods, surely you will not damage the motor and everything should work properly! Great work with the kart guys! (Sorry for my bad English)
Take a small ball bearing about the same size as the clutch shaft . You have lost the one that used to be in there. This will add the right distance to make things work again !
We had a similar issue on Our 1200 iron head sportster drag bike what ended up using a. “ Long ” Allen wrench And Buffing the ends Nice and round Guesstimate the Length and make a little bitLong at first and then shorten it till its perfect 👌 Alan ranches is already hardened steel You don’t have much to lose except for an Allen wrench have fun
Hey guys, just stumbled across your channel. I really like how your willing to dive into an engine, problem solve & make fast stuff. My hats off to both of you!!🎩🎩 New subscriber, stay after it 👍
I have a 1970 triumph 650. The clutch actuated very similarly. The rod might supposed to be one single piece, not two. The replacement rod might possibly be what is referred to as “drill rod”. It is a hardened , precision ground piece of steel. Ask a machine shop where you might get a length of “drill rod” that diameter. You just cut it to length. Also, my clutch failed when the rod on my triumph “drilled” through a hardened “button” that inserted into the clutch basket and released the clutch when the clutch cable actuated. My dad (a machinist) cut a new button out of cold rolled steel, heat treated it by getting it red hot and dropping it into some used oil, thus case hardening the button. It’s still in use today.
Figure out. What length that you need. To make it work properly. Measure the diameter of the push rod . You might be able to use a piece of cold roll. If a solid one piece would even work at all . If it's a straight shot from the lever to the clutch. The kart is Awesome
Some clutches do have a bb like ball in the clutch rod assembly. I think it goes inside the clutch retainer thing to aid in its spinning. You can use a stainless steel ball bearing just gotta find the right size and make sure there's no way for it to escape into the gearbox
Lovely kart, I'd think the arm must have a ball/spring missing to provide pressure when engaging and disengaging.you might need try find a similar clutch to check or a diagram of it, you should be able to do a home DIY repair.
I could hear the clutch slipping when you were driving. Sounded like it was sticking. Convert the cam system to a hydraulic cylinder, wouldn’t take too much work.
No springs in the clutch basket? Can probably use a dry clutch from a Montessa, Ktm, puch, or check karting sites. Probably something can be adapted there.
find an assortment of different width ball bearings probably from vxb. or modify the clutch rods to 3 pieces and find a center rod that could be used like in a Harley Hummer. may have to use a brazing rod to take measurements on the clutch rod length if you go the 3 piece route.
Yea, I believe your smashed thing was the check ball. Only thing I could think of to roll on the cam lobe for the thing. You can try a metal checkball for a gm 4l60e transmission. But if you mic the tip of the rod and get the .000 size you can order the check balls on ebay. you just type in your .000 size you micd with a micrometer thing and order a set. If your clutches are still good and engaging then you probably just smashed the ball. I would assume from age it would be worn well.
yeah, for sure don't give up on the Wanker2000............I'm sure someone out there in youtubeland will throw you some assistance, good luck!!!...many love, much props
Just a thought are you able to buy a recluse clutch for it I'm not sure if they would make one for that engine but if they do you wouldn't need a clutch pedal or anything good luck guys
clearly need a ball between the two bars. one is spinning fast the other is fixed so it need a "point contact" only a ball can give to minimize the friction. without the ball the two bars heat a lot and start melt eachh other like it happens to you. refabricate the bars with the good materials and put a ball that's use in motorcycles, you must find something close enough to fit well. you get a nice piece of a motor here, don't garbage it for such small thing :) greetings from france !
these rods should be super easy to turn on a lathe, even an old crappy wobbly one. measure it with some calipers and see if you can find some round stock (hardened) in the right ball park. as has already been said, a ball certainly goes in the center, judging by how worn the rod is on that one end, im guessing it was lost before you guys got the engine. a hydraulic retrofit looks pretty easy, to do on this btw. ;)
You can use a piece of wire to go through the engine.to find the length needed,for the rod.I think that disc that fell out,may have been the ball,without grease.
Hey build break repeat look into the recluse clutch its retains the clutch but gets rid of the clutch pedal cable it automatically engages the clutch and might be easier then trying to fix this issue due to lack of parts
Most bike engines I have had apart, have a ball, like from a ball bearing, between the two rods. I forgot to put it back on one engine, and had similar problems. Won't do that again. Good luck, keep up the great vids.
Old German engines are comparable to the Japanese same year. in general, however, there are always two push rods in the clutch basket shaft AND there is always a very short pin between them. this is then about 10 mm long. Just test it. Only with maximum lever travel, and if this leads to slipping of the clutch, just continue cutting
Huge bummer on the clutch...we were planning on this being a crazy ripping vid but that’s just how this stuff goes can’t complain too much. Anyways, we are going to be getting back to the turbo build in the coming weeks so stay tuned for that!
As far as clutch troubleshooting goes we found that the clutch mechanism is shared with some KTM bikes, in particular the 76 Penton 400. I couldn’t find an exact diagram but I found on a forum that those used a ball between the two rods. Let us know if you think ours had one!
Maybe reach out to Barber Motorsports museum www.barbermuseum.org/plan-a-visit/contact-us/ These guys restore and have bikes from old steam wood bikes all the way up to a H2R. I'm sure they might could answer the question or maybe have a diagram. Couldn't hurt to ask.
Dudes use a hydralic set up from an old kz900/z900 and you can swap in hydraulic set up to push that rod in. That and may be able to modify z1enterprises needle bearing clutch "mushroom". At least then you can get parts and have hydraulics and yes there should be a ball bearing in between the rods so they dont sieze. I have a kz750 clutch rod that welded itself to the ball bearing so not uncommon
i know a few lathe masters on youtube that offer a dencent price on stuff like this. its a rare gem of an engine and I'd imagine
ThisOldTony
AvE
or waterjet channel would be willing to help.
If there was a ball and you didn't remove it, it may still be in there somewhere. You may need to open the casing up to verify, else risk a FOD incident.
Google translate is your friend
I googled in german and found some information about the clutch of the Herkules W2000. It apparently has the design flaw of having a too small movement overall. This leads to the clutch not properly disengaging(hard to put it gears) or slipping on the other hand. The cam easily wears, which makes this problem worse. Yes, there must be a small ball between the two rods, I got the same on my bike and I believe it's very common. You should be able to see a round dent in the two pushrods.
Do not extend the rods, but use a ball instead. It acts as a bearing and seperates the non rotating cam from the rotating clutch.
best regards
DerKrawallkeks
DerKrawallkeks sweet, thanks for helping us. Yeah most w2000 info I’ve found is in german which isn’t too helpful for me lol
@@BuildBreakRepeat No problem. Put a ball in it, see how it is. If you got any further question, I actually have a friend who owns this motorcycle fully restored, so I could ask him some stuff if really neccessary.
"It apparently has the design flaw of having a too small movement overall"
If there is extra travel room for the clutch they could modify/make a new lever to get some extra movement and solve that problem.
ja moin^^
@@RCAddicted und dann auch noch n Modellbauer..
THERES SUPPOSED TO BE A BALL BEARING BETWEEN THE TWO RODS.. IF YOU DIDNT PUT IT IN ORIGINALLY THE SHAFTS WILL WEAR INTO EACH OTHER CAUSING UR FAILURE.. GOOD LUCK GUYS.. LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND OUT...🤞.. THAT KART IS AWESOME..
😨
There's hundreds of CNC UA-camrs. I'm sure someone would gladly take on that project.
I'm a machinist by trade but fair warning I'm only 16(osha cert and everything) However, I am pretty confident that I could machine a similar push rod given proper prints/dimensions of the rod. the disappointing part is that school just got out, assuming they still haven't found a replacement by the time I get back in school I would be happy to make one and ship it out to them. If they respond to this I can make an attempt at getting access to a lathe over break. No promises tho sadly.
Connor Pigeon they could easily buy stainless rod and de-burr the end with a dremmel, I think it just needs a ball bearing replacement.
Machinist by trade ? You’ve done 10,000 hours of solid machining work? Machinist? I don’t doubt you have access to a tool shop and maybe that’s what you should say.
Lol no need for cnc. Looks to be just round stock. Can probably find close or exactly what you need online. At most it looks like you would need a manual lathe
Why would you need a CNC lathe to make a rod?
Oscar Muffin yes you do need a lathe to make engine components, I don't think you want to use a dremmel when dealing with tolerances less than .001, I'm not saying a dremmel won't work but this is literally why I'm in school and going to be employed for..... precision machining, that would very much include any part of this engine or any other engine
My 78 Kawasaki had the clutch pushrod press in on a ball bearing that would engage the clutch basket. That ball bearing was supposed to be pretty much completely engulfed in high temp grease. Gig 'em!!
Needs mini turbo fans for the front wheels
I want to record the sound of that engine, put in on my phone, and wake up to it every day.
dude, you’ve got alot of subscribers.
holly fuck its fooligan!!! (m8 you NEED a rotary powered gram :D
Use a ball bearing are use it for my two stroke push rod clutch
I have found that most bike push rods have a ball bearing between the two this is factory fit
True, Am6 engines use it aswell... Although I put it in there, And when I tried to get it out a day later.. It was gone? But it shifts fine haha
Still puts steering wheel on upside down. Looks cool but the flat part is to give driver more leg room.
What I was thinking
Thats some good trivia right there... I did not know, but wondered..
You beat me to the punch...
Nope. Not on a kart. That's the way its supposed to be. Go figure, right?
thats what ive been saving
Definitely seen most shaft operated clutches like this one use ball bearings. I've seen them used at both ends of the rod. Measure the thickness of the rod & find ball bearings to match
Rotarys are 25% of time driving them 75% of time fixing them. Which is why I like them. You seem to be getting on top of fixing it good work.
I’m a machinist I’ll make you one on the lathe!
there should be a ball bearing between the push rod shafts.
I've definitely had a ball bearing in a clutch push-rod, may have been a Kawasaki or KTM....so I would have thought it's a strong possibility. But, where did it go ???
JulianRapp yeah that’s what I’m saying...it must have just completely welded itself
That's probably what was crushed on the pushrod when they removed it. Probably seized and just ate itself up
Sounds like the same thing is happening that happens with the KAWASAKI KZ 900/1000 clutch`s.pulling in the clutch after running hard heats up the components and welds the ball bearing and rod together...The fix for them is a needle bearing pusher stops the welding of the parts...
The ball bearing is there so the spin isn't transfered to the pushrod. Should also be a flat needle bearing between the clutch pressure plate and the clutch adjustment the pushrod goes into, which i can see you do not have, and that's probably why it welded itself together
@@BuildBreakRepeat the ballbearing was completely worn down over the years it may have even been the small piece you pulled out with the shaft
Ball bearing in. The middle of shafts. The top end a little rich. Sound like it's 4 stocking. AWESOME job GUY'S. 🇺🇸✌👍👍👍👍🇺🇸
So nice to see you guys taking karting life on the positive side. Life is full of sweet and sour notes for sure.
this is by far the the sickest shifter cart build
I clicked on this just to hear this engine run. Never heard one before. Not disappointed. Sounds awesome! Would love to feel that rotary power!
Grind hard just put an automatic clutch in their build . Get one of those things it worked bad ass.
Doubt they make one for that old engine. And they're pretty expensive!
@@wheeln24-79 maybe but they look very similar . And these kids are rich they can afford it 😉
Lol, Rekluse don't make auto clutches for this engine....
Hell yes. Perfect livery for this project.
Loved watching the build of this kart
It needs a ball bearing the same size as the rod. Good show, guys! Keep it up!
Don't mind at all if it runs long on episodes. I love the work you guys are putting in. Keep up the good work. It's awesome the work you're putting in to all the builds.
You guys should make a pushrod a quarter of an inch longer than what was left if there are no further issues
LOL use a ball bearing
I do not know that engine but is it possible to use a one piece push rod that makes up the entire length you need? If not, I would think the other posters ball bearing idea should work.
You guys got something SUUUPER unique here. Any content you post is more than welcome. You're right it is really interesting. Don't shy away from any sort of content involving this rotary kart. Your subs will let you know when enough is enough. Till then keep em coming and clean up that livery paint job! It's too cool to leave halfassed.
This schould be the Partslist you are looking for:
Sachs Nr.: 338.6/3 D-E-F
But i could not find any further information. Only a german onlineshop who sells this list for about 12 dollars.
Greetings from Germany
All I can say is that you guys show more perseverance than I would with this build awesome job boys
The 787 livery is nuts guys! So jealous of this build. Guys spend the money and get a faceplated gear set made for it. Flat foot shifts😁
I wanna see valsity's kart running with this one!
You know what would be really sick especially once you guys get the clutch all dialed in. Turbo that thing... super simple set ignition timing. It'll be a little lazy when not in boost and have a draw through carburetor setup... that thing would haul ass.
The 787b-inspired livery is a nice touch. Great job!
Great build!
hope you get it fixed soon, next time break it on the dyno then turbo it Hell yeah, but you probably should fit a roll bar
787b's paint job for a rotary engine, Well-seen😉
def the best cart on youtube.
We like to watch you drive things and watch you work on things. (I know; you would prefer the reverse order of my statement).
The clutch failing does suck. You'll fix it!! Thanks for taking us on this wild ride!
Dude, I could sleep to the sound of that!
That thing is awesome. Sounds great!!
Like watching this channel, you guys are doing great . I like watching you overcoming the challenges of unique projects you build.
Honestly they should make a kart racing class for this, like company's remake the rotary engine so it's more available and have karts with them it would be sick honestly
One of the best projects you guys built
Awesome build! The 787 paint scheme is brilliant. Just one suggestion... flip your steering wheel. The flat bottom is to give you a little more leg clearance😊
“Down here in Mexico” 😂 I’ll meet you for a 20 roll lol.
Great paint job. Glad to see you guys know your rotary history:)
Love when it braps when idling
The flat part of the steering wheel should be on the bottom.
Not on karts, the way he has it is right.
Nope, it's on right
Flat on top so you can see
On karts and old LM cars the top was flat
This thing sounds insane
We had a similar disengagement system on Speedway bikes and I was constantly working on them. So I believe you are correct regards a ball bearing (or hardened roller) between shafts. The other thing is to harden the shaft ends sufficiently, too hard they eat bearings and plates, too soft and they get eaten. Personally I found heating to a dull cherry color the quenching in oil worked best.
usually I adjust 2-stroke motocross engines, and they all have 2 rods inside and a ball between them that separates them, this serves to keep them from breaking, a single rod would be too long and could break due to the vibrations and torsion caused from the clutch basket.
try to insert a ball between the 2 rods, surely you will not damage the motor and everything should work properly!
Great work with the kart guys!
(Sorry for my bad English)
That gokart is badass
That is hands down the greatest go kart of all time. Bummer about the break down but fix it and keep braaap'ing!
Rotary engines love boost. You should boost it. Get on that. I need to see it !
Take a small ball bearing about the same size as the clutch shaft . You have lost the one that used to be in there. This will add the right distance to make things work again !
It’s like a baby 787 haha I love it
i love the livery
le mans intensifies
Fantastic Project !!!
Nice 787B paint job 😍
We had a similar issue on Our 1200 iron head sportster drag bike what ended up using a. “ Long ” Allen wrench And Buffing the ends Nice and round Guesstimate the Length and make a little bitLong at first and then shorten it till its perfect 👌 Alan ranches is already hardened steel You don’t have much to lose except for an Allen wrench have fun
Something always has to break, but that’s how it goes. I love the Chevy truck
You are living dream n doing job how it must be done i hope that you can grow n develope your garage n start makin bigger projects
falta so regular direitinho e ja era...👍👍👍ta top!!!
Nooooooo!!
Sick video still. It was good to see and hear it run.
Hey guys, just stumbled across your channel. I really like how your willing to dive into an engine, problem solve & make fast stuff. My hats off to both of you!!🎩🎩
New subscriber, stay after it 👍
You sounded drunk in the intro LOL no offence u guys awesome
I have a 1970 triumph 650. The clutch actuated very similarly. The rod might supposed to be one single piece, not two. The replacement rod might possibly be what is referred to as “drill rod”. It is a hardened , precision ground piece of steel. Ask a machine shop where you might get a length of “drill rod” that diameter. You just cut it to length. Also, my clutch failed when the rod on my triumph “drilled” through a hardened “button” that inserted into the clutch basket and released the clutch when the clutch cable actuated. My dad (a machinist) cut a new button out of cold rolled steel, heat treated it by getting it red hot and dropping it into some used oil, thus case hardening the button. It’s still in use today.
Figure out. What length that you need. To make it work properly. Measure the diameter of the push rod . You might be able to use a piece of cold roll. If a solid one piece would even work at all . If it's a straight shot from the lever to the clutch. The kart is Awesome
Some clutches do have a bb like ball in the clutch rod assembly. I think it goes inside the clutch retainer thing to aid in its spinning. You can use a stainless steel ball bearing just gotta find the right size and make sure there's no way for it to escape into the gearbox
i love this projeckt, thumbs up
That thing is still badass, broken or not lol, great job on the build guys, hope to see it up and running again soon.
yo that paint job is dope
Lovely kart, I'd think the arm must have a ball/spring missing to provide pressure when engaging and disengaging.you might need try find a similar clutch to check or a diagram of it, you should be able to do a home DIY repair.
Nice 787b paint scheme.
Check the gearbox for the ball.Got to be inside somewhere. I wouldn't fire it back up till you find it.
I could hear the clutch slipping when you were driving. Sounded like it was sticking. Convert the cam system to a hydraulic cylinder, wouldn’t take too much work.
Nice classic chevy pickup truck btw.
Looks like the exact same design as the clutch in my yamaha blaster. Ball and pushrod. It's worth a look into those parts might work in that clutch
This thing is so badass lmao
Thats a sweet old truck man...
No springs in the clutch basket? Can probably use a dry clutch from a Montessa, Ktm, puch, or check karting sites. Probably something can be adapted there.
Reali good Custom Go kart
Imagine making a water cooled, smaller version of this and put on one of those 50cc bikes
Bottoms out a lot, Handles great! That's the #LowLife boys.
find an assortment of different width ball bearings probably from vxb. or modify the clutch rods to 3 pieces and find a center rod that could be used like in a Harley Hummer. may have to use a brazing rod to take measurements on the clutch rod length if you go the 3 piece route.
the truck is awesome
Just throw in a small bearing ball between the two pushrods, and flame harden the pushrod ends!
Yea, I believe your smashed thing was the check ball. Only thing I could think of to roll on the cam lobe for the thing. You can try a metal checkball for a gm 4l60e transmission. But if you mic the tip of the rod and get the .000 size you can order the check balls on ebay. you just type in your .000 size you micd with a micrometer thing and order a set. If your clutches are still good and engaging then you probably just smashed the ball. I would assume from age it would be worn well.
Livery is pronounced like you were saying the word liver (the organ) Liver-ee.
thank you, someone noticed. driving me nutz hearing that.
yeah, for sure don't give up on the Wanker2000............I'm sure someone out there in youtubeland will throw you some assistance, good luck!!!...many love, much props
Just a thought are you able to buy a recluse clutch for it I'm not sure if they would make one for that engine but if they do you wouldn't need a clutch pedal or anything good luck guys
Dang nothing is better than a rotary idling...
clearly need a ball between the two bars. one is spinning fast the other is fixed so it need a "point contact" only a ball can give to minimize the friction.
without the ball the two bars heat a lot and start melt eachh other like it happens to you.
refabricate the bars with the good materials and put a ball that's use in motorcycles, you must find something close enough to fit well.
you get a nice piece of a motor here, don't garbage it for such small thing :)
greetings from france !
these rods should be super easy to turn on a lathe, even an old crappy wobbly one.
measure it with some calipers and see if you can find some round stock (hardened) in the right ball park.
as has already been said, a ball certainly goes in the center, judging by how worn the rod is on that one end, im guessing it was lost before you guys got the engine.
a hydraulic retrofit looks pretty easy, to do on this btw. ;)
You can use a piece of wire to go through the engine.to find the length needed,for the rod.I think that disc that fell out,may have been the ball,without grease.
I think the bar you pulled out first,was supposed to be in the clutch.It does have a groove for a C-clip...
Hey build break repeat look into the recluse clutch its retains the clutch but gets rid of the clutch pedal cable it automatically engages the clutch and might be easier then trying to fix this issue due to lack of parts
Most bike engines I have had apart, have a ball, like from a ball bearing, between the two rods. I forgot to put it back on one engine, and had similar problems. Won't do that again. Good luck, keep up the great vids.
The old Yamaha Fs1 had a bearing ball in between two pushrods in the gear axle to eliminate the rotating action on the pushrod lever. maybe do that :)
Can u cut a piece of hardened screwdriver stem as a replacement ?
Old German engines are comparable to the Japanese same year. in general, however, there are always two push rods in the clutch basket shaft AND there is always a very short pin between them. this is then about 10 mm long. Just test it. Only with maximum lever travel, and if this leads to slipping of the clutch, just continue cutting
Sounds bizzare, idle it's a rotary. On power sounds like a 2 banger. Still awesome though👌
You need a stop on your foot clutch. Your foot can put a lot more force on that clutch arm than a hand clutch!