Only way to improve this Trans video would be to wear Blue gloves ; sometimes the black ones stop one from seeing the parts being handled . Just a thought ! Well done Allen P.
I got a 2001 cuatromatic it didn't want to shift in to the third speed. I really think it has something to do something whit the cilenoides and conductor plate. what do u think. It hasn't run in 3 years😢.
Awesome job,I have a 2000 e320 wagon,my transmision shift hard and some gears take longer when it's cold, feels dry,feels like it needs fluid change,I have to let it warm up alot,when the car it's really hot transmision works fantastic!
Greetin, great video. Question: after replacing the conductor plate on my 1998-2003 Mercedes-Benz ml due a faulty output speed sensor, does my vehicle need be programmed?
Great video. love my 1998 W210 E320 but my 722.6 has been dumping hard into 3rd and sometimes (when cold) not going into 3rd at all. And once in a while sticking in 3rd. After it goes through the gears a couple times it works fine. This video was so informative, I know so much more about how my transmission works and I know to perform this service if I feel it will solve the issues. I'm off the Merc. mechanic to get a proper scan. And then hopefully I get to wrench on my transmission instead of replacing it. wish me luck.
Very informative video, thanks for posting! I have a ‘99 C230 Kompressor with 297k miles on the original transmission. Only issue I’m noticing is harder shifts when cold, especially 1-2. I’m planning to order the service kit you offer including the conductor plate, etc., but my question is with the high miles do you recommend getting fresh solenoids as well? What else is a good idea to refresh while in there? I do not know when the transmission was serviced last. Thanks!
Hi Colton! We love a good W202! Fluid, filter and conductor plate will generally be good as far as general preventative maintenance goes, assuming you don't have any codes at the moment. If you've noticed shifts flaring between gears, then you may want to consider adding on any/all of the overlap sleeve and spring upgrade kits for the valve body mentioned in this video. If the car is driving normally aside from that 1-2 shift, I wouldn't rush into doing the shift solenoids. The behavior you're noting is somewhat typical of a TCC lock-up solenoid (2402701700) showing its age in a colder climate, often resulting in a very hard feeling "shift" as the converter locks in first gear, followed by an actual shift to second gear moments later. This is an easy "while you're in there," and is relatively inexpensive, whereas replacing the solenoids can quickly tally up to a hefty bill. Hope this helps! Let us know how the car drives following your service. -Danny
Hi how are you ? Thank you for your beautiful, informative videos... I have a big problem. After changing the board, testing the solenoids without pressurizing, complete disassembly of the valves, installation of Sonnax, draining of new BVA and converter...connector to controller, my problem remains the same...box in degraded mode and not more than 3000 revolutions.... It goes from D to R with jerk and does not shift gears... I cannot pressure test the solenoids.... thank you for your help...
Great video, thanks for taking the time to post it. I recently ordered and received your kit to change out the conductor plate, filter, gasket, and Connector. I have not done it yet. I have a 2001 Mercedes E320 Sport giving me problems it has 156,000 miles on it. When checked the vehicle indicates a P0715 code "Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor A Circuit". The car was driving well, recently took a trip to Birmingham, AL, and back with no problems. Drove it to work Monday - Wednesday about 60 miles roundtrip. Got in it early that Thursday morning, backed out of my driveway, and started up the street, and I noticed that it seemed to only change out once. So when I got to the main highway I gave it more gas and the engine went into a high rev, and then would no longer pull. So I pulled over and noted that my car would not pull when placed in any gear. So I exited the vehicle to confirm there were no leaks. I turned the car off and cranked it again and nothing changed. So I parked it to later have the vehicle towed to my home. Upon removal from the tow truck, we cranked the vehicle and were able to place it in reverse drove it off the ramp, then into drive, and drove the vehicle down into my driveway. Since then it has been parked. However, I was able to notice that when cracked and the engine is cold the transmission pulls both in reverse and drive, but as the vehicle warms up it has less of a pull when moved to both reverse or drive. All the research I have found pointed me to replacing the conductor plate, input shaft speed sensor, shift solenoids, and a change of filter and fluids. I also found my TCM to be full of fluid. I cleaned it out with contact cleaner. What are your thoughts and what would you suggest I do please sir?
Hi there Paul! Sorry to hear that you got stranded. Sounds like you've got a solid plan to tackle the issue. We agree that it sounds like it may be time for a conductor plate and general refresh (and given your mileage, it would certainly be within the window for expected failure; unlikely to have been replaced previously, but also getting up there in age). In fact, you may not even "need" those shift solenoids; the speed sensing is done by the conductor plate, and unless you find metal debris or cause for greater concern when you drain the fluid and drop the transmission pan, the solenoids will generally be fine. Though, at 156,000 miles, it's never a bad idea to replace them "while you're in there" for peace of mind as they're a bit of a pain to get to! As your engine oil does, transmission oil gets more viscous with temperature; fluid that's hot and at operating temperature will look almost watery compared to fluid at room temperature. Add in the fact that fluid also thins with age, and you likely have your answer as to why the car is most unhappy at operating temperature; the fluid becomes so viscous the system isn't able to operate within the tolerances it was designed to. Freshening things up with a conductor plate replacement and a fluid/filter service will typically do the trick for something speed-sensor related, so you should be good to go with the parts you're planning to order (don't forget a 722.6 transmission dipstick as well! You'll need to order one for the filling process). Unfortunate that the TCM is full of oil, but certainly not uncommon. A lot of the time, cleaning it out as you did will do the trick, pending the amount of fluid that entered the module. If it's still having issues afterwards, a replacement can be done with a 1:1 match of the TCM and is relatively inexpensive. Definitely make sure you replace the pilot bushing during your service to keep any additional fluid from wicking into the TCM, though (if you ordered our 722.6 service kit, this will be included)! Best of luck!
Euro team thanks so much for the reply. Here is my order number to confirm that everything needed except the solenoids. I do have a tranny dipstick. Can you send me a link to the solenoids please? Let me know if you need the vin #.
@@Kermit1910Kermit tak i przeciągała biegi, na początku czasem, ale potem już praktycznie cały czas, winowajca to płyta przewodząca mechatroniki sterownika w skrzyni, nowa wsadzona olej wymieniony i bangla
@@maxioking1508 u mnie jest taki problem ,ze jade i nagle przechodzi w tryb awaryjny nie ma kickdowna w pedale brakuje mocy musze ponownie odpalic auto ...szukam przyczyny co to powoduje
@@Kermit1910Kermit byczku, musisz sprawdzić kompem, bo tak to będziemy razem wróżyć z fusów, porządna diagnostyka i wtedy będziesz wiedział. Czytałem na amerykańskich forach, że ta płyta Czarna pada najczęściej, może też być oring na wtyczce skrzyni, podobne objawy, a oczywiście sprawdź czy są wycieki i ile jest oleju, ta skrzynia dostaje pierdolca jak ma mało oleju. Czekam na info
HI Danny. Both my rear speed sensors fail when I hit 3rd gear. I'm guessing it's the N3 sensor on the conductor plate that's to blame, you think? (SRT8) I've already changed the rear speed sensors and TCM, and it's not fixed the problem...
hey friend, id be really grateful if you can help me out. i was working on a w210 om606 with 722.6 transmission and i had it running for maybe 10 minutes without transmission fluid, which i didnt know at the time. it was in neutral almost the entire time, but i tried to put it in drive and revved it a couple times. it it possible that did some damage or does it have any kind of safety due to low pressure or something? i would really appreciate a response, thank you. cheers!
Last summer i changed the conductorplate on my 2009 W204 with 722.6 5G tronic but the gearbox still not working properly so i need to change the solenoids and the overlap sleeves to because i think thats the problem, have have two modes on the gearbox, C and S, it will not shift at all in mode C but it is possible to drive the car in mode S only if starting from zero very gently or else it will not shift to second gear. Once it shifts to second gear it works just fine in mode S, until i park and turn of the engine and start it up again, same thing, need to start from zero very gentle. No error codes at all. Once the second gear is in and the oil starts to get warm it works great with kickdowns and shifting properly i mode S. Only gear one seem to work in mode C. Question: Would i replace all solenoids and the three overlap sleeves, or just a few solenoids + all sleeves ?
Hi HearGear! For a 722.6, we'll always recommend double-checking the fluid level as a first course of action, just due to the strange characteristics these gearboxes can exhibit when slightly over- or under-filled. Make sure you're checking it at the Mercedes-recommended 80-deg C. We only got the 722.9 for the W204 here, so yours is a bit of an interesting case. When you replaced parts previously, did you find any debris in the transmission pan? Additionally, did you reset any existing codes when you replaced the conductor plate? I don't believe overlap sleeves are part of the equation in this instance, as issues pertaining to that part of the valve body will generally result in flaring between gear changes. Let me know! -Danny
@@fcpeuro There was no codes in the first place, the level is spot on at 80C, when i bought the car the previous owner had the car for oilchange at a Mercedes dealer car-repairshop so the level was good also before i changed the conductor plate. There was no debris in the pan, when it shifts from gear 1 to 2 its a slight delay like you mentioned in this video, as the engine coming up to temperature the gears in S mode shifts perfect when driving. Most i am thinking the Solenoids because the gearbox does not work at all in Comfort mode, only gear 1, if i am lucky i might get it to shift to second gear it i am super super gentle on the acceleration. Thanks
so what happens next if after changing the conductor plate and the 6 solenoid to brand new ones and yet the car does not shift to higher gears, what is the next step to check?? The selector switch??? I really am desperate for your technical advise!!! Thanks
@@1R1SHxSN1P3R In the same boat. From what I've read you need a certain scan tool like an icarsoft model to talk directly to the TCM for a reset and not just clear the codes. I've ordered the MBII scanner so we'll see if that's the case. Of course there could be a bunch of other things going on like fluid levels, ATF wicking up wires to the TCM, a bad 13 pin connector, etc etc etc...
excellent video, I have the same gearbox on the ml 270 TD, it works perfectly both hot and cold, no vibrations, 290 thousand km, I changed the oil, filter and plug, everything is ok but the only problem is between 3rd and 4th gear there is a delay grafting. sometimes it goes up by a few rpm, sometimes by 400/500, sometimes it goes well. They tell me it's a very common problem, what do you think?
I'd give the valve body a bit of love whenever you replace the conductor plate in the future! The 3-to-4 shift is the toughest one for these transmissions and will almost always flare a bit when these are tuned. What you're experiencing may very well just be typical behavior of an older 722.6, but replacing the overlap sleeves as we did in this video with the Sonnax kit can definitely help.
Absolute best transmission conductor plate replacement video and I’ve seen them all and done this job a few times on Mercedes and on Range Rovers. never had to change the conductor plate though you Will have to have the new conductor plate. Programed correct?
When I drive for 20 minutes in my car, then the gearbox starts to move and only from the third gear? What is that and how I can fix that? Thank you for answer.
Hi i have an mb 320 cdi whit 722.6 .300tkm on clock good service history i changed atf oil and now i imagen the gearbox slipping more i used fuchs oil 236.14 oil is it to thin?i have also tried whit factory reset
Hello from Greece ! I have MERCEDES E200 2008 w211 with 184ps and automatic transmission….i reached today over 450.000 kilometres…….i am servicing my automatic transmission every 60.000 kilometres ….oil , filter , sock …….everything was ultra smooth in all 450.000 kilometres…..3 days ago the car started making something weird at the 3rd gear …..something like stuttering and luck of speed up ……I’m giving power with the gas pedal and it stutters…….in the other gears seems to be good for now ……I think that something is wrong with the torque converter I assume ………any opinions for me to start seeing with a garage ?? Also is that symptom related to torque converter or conductor plate ? Thanks in advance ….
So just to confirm the dipstick that you sell for the 722.6 isnt an actual dipstick but a tool to check the fluid level? I need to do a trans service on my 02 c230k as its throwing a couple transmission codes and shifts poorly if it isnt getting stuck. I was given this car and i dont know if the trans was ever serviced
That's correct, the dipstick (FEB-38023 on our site) is solely for checking fluid level and gets removed once you've got your level situated. If the dipstick cap has never been touched before, you may have to break off the red locking pin to remove the transmission tube fill cap to insert your dipstick (though the black tube cap pops right back on top of the tube without the locking pin if you're just checking the level, and our kit includes a new locking pin if you're servicing). As Mercedes generally coins these as "lifetime fill," I wouldn't be surprised if it's due for fluid and a filter as many 722.6 cars are. Don't forget to clear the transmission codes following your service and before you go for the first drive!
Good day, I have a 2008 Mercedes Benz.. brought it to the shop for a service, oil change etc.. one day after the service the car slams into reverse and drive gear, additional the transmission won’t shift out, it’s just driving in 1st gear.. brought it back to the shop, they said it’s the transmission valve body..
5 місяців тому
Hi! Someone before me already described a similar error, if the shift between 1st and 2nd gear is harder when cold, and when rolling slowly sometimes it seems to suddenly shift down and up, could the TCC lock-up solenoid be at fault?
Having a code P2107 for Modulating Control Solenoid valve after replacing conductor plate. Does that mean it needs replaced, or could that be a pilot bushing issue?
Thanks a lot for this fantastic video! I have one question: does the solenoid upgrade also work in a 722.9 transmission? It is a 7G Tronic, not 7G Tronic Plus. Thanks a lot!
I have a 1989 Mercedes 300E gasoline vehicle that shakes when in reverse and brakes are applied. Forward gears work normally. Do you think the repair is DIY? If so, please advise parts and instructions.
hello, if my torque converter slips in basically any speed what yoy think would be the issue? TQ changed with another one and does the same....does not llock up and the car is mooving decently at high rpms... thanks
There is no link to the overlap sleeve , like all the other parts. Great video , well explained . You make it look easy like Mario Lemieux played Hockey Thanks !!!
Hello I just recently did my conductor plate service but I feel liKe I put the brown tips in the wrong location because the code that I’m still receiving is a pressure solenoid B code. Is there anyway you can help me with information? I see that the serial says B1 & B2 on the parts, but which one would be the defective/misplaced one ?
Hello A paper towel should not be used when checking the automatic oil. Always check with a piece of leather. (a leather, for example, with which the car is leathered after washing)
So pretty much all these transmissions including say from a 2003 SL500 would require 2 solenoids to be changed. if were looking to improve shift time correct?
Yes, one of the best videos on 722.6 on UA-cam if not the best ;). Thank you very much. Are the blue top solenoids for AMG models only? I have Vito with V6 and I wonder if they will make a difference or is it waste of money? Thanks
Thanks for the kind words Petr! We'll generally recommend these blue tops for the "W5A580" variants of the 722.6 typically used in AMG cars, as they have a torque limit that will generally behave better/safer. As the solenoids aid shift pressure they'll always make a difference, but you'll want to do the research to be certain that they'll work on your application smoothly and safely. As for the overlap sleeves and shift solenoids, those will definitely be effective services on your Vito as well! Especially if its showing any of these indications of aging/wear. -Danny
Hi there Spidepig09! Pending the frequency of fluid/filter services and driving style, the conductor plate can be good for as long as 200,000 miles in some cases (~320,000km). Yours has been serviced a good deal more than the vast majority of these "lifetime-filled" transmissions which bodes very well for its longevity. This being said, the worst way to figure out that it's time for a conductor plate replacement is when you're trying to drive somewhere and it isn't cooperating. I'd generally recommend replacing the conductor plate every 100,000-120,000 miles (160,000-190,000km) to be sure that it doesn't leave you stuck on the side of the road. Additionally, check to make sure you don't have transmission fluid entering the TCM through the pilot bushing! It's unfortunately very common on the original factory pilot bushing, and can also strand you. The kit containing everything you need for the service is in the video description. -Danny
I have a 2009 3.0CRD Grand cherokee that is slipping a little if cold started and put straight into reverse. If I wait 15 seconds it's fine. First second shift is hard when warm. Any ideas?
Hello Troy. What mileage is your Jeep at, and have you ever had the transmission fluid/filter replaced? Often, odd shift behavior on a 722.6 is a byproduct of the "lifetime fluid" losing lubricity/viscosity over time. A fluid and filter change may work wonders here. -Danny
Hi, i have ml55 amg, cold and also hot has not nice, harsh shift when stopping, transmission is downshifting from 2 to 1 gear. What you suggest to replace?
Hi. I have a problem with mi W203 Mercedes 220. I have a problem with the 722.6 gearbox, namely a 2nd gear remains blocked (error P2561). I changed the conductor plate, the oil, the filter, I measured the resistance of the solenoids and they are within the parameters, but the problem persists. The oil level is ok. What else could I check? I'm from europe.
Hello, I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2007 WH (European model) with DGU 5-Spd Auto W5J400 transmission. I have a problem switching gears from 2nd to 3rd only, it hesitates doing it and when is doing the rev ramps above 3500 rot/min. That is the only symptom. Any idea what might be? the 2-3 shift solenoids? thank you!
FCP, we appreciate your time and work, thank you very much... Am driving a w203 Mercedese Year 2001, but am still confused on how many liters of oil do i have to put in my transmission. I did my gear box service, changed the oil, oil filter, seal and the Automatic Transmission Conductor Adapter Plug and now my car does not change gears. What could be the problem ? Thanks for your support.
Hi there! A couple of possibilities here, but a good first step would be scanning the transmission to see what codes exist. A first step would be to use your 722.6-specific oil dipstick to check your fluid level (we have a video about how to check the fluid level on your 722.6 with Kyle if you're uncertain), as a low fluid level will almost always result in either an inability to move forward or a "limp mode" when trying to gain speed. Fluid on refill can vary from several liters if you do a full drain like I did with the CTA tool, to around 4 if you did not. From there, I'd recommend backtracking. Make sure the plug for the transmission computer is fully seated and the TCU itself doesn't have any fluid inside of the plugs. If all of these are done and the car still won't drive, you may want to consider dropping the pan again to make sure that the shifting dowel pin is slotted back into the shifter bracket. Most commonly though, the cause of this is too little fluid. It's very common for owners to complete the service, refill the transmission, start the vehicle and go for a drive. With each time the vehicle shifts and the converter engages/disengages, fluid will circulate and the level will drop. This is why there's a recommended procedure to the fluid refill. Hope this helps! -Danny
Hi Ahmed! While we don't have a conductor plate replacement video for the 722.9 just yet (the transmission computer being integrated into the conductor plate and requiring coding after replacement makes it a bit trickier) we do have a comprehensive 722.9 fluid/filter service video published! Just search our channel to find Kyle's DIY guide. -Danny
trans fluid migrating through the wires to the insides of the remote trans computer? serious engineering there... overlap sleeve failed again? need to polish OD and bore
I HAVE JUST RELACED MY CONDUDTOR PLATE AND DISCOVERED THE PLACTIC HOODS OVER THE SOLENOIDS ARE MISSING! this is on a T1N sprinter. Is this a problem and does anyone have a part# for the hoods? Thx gb
My pilot bushing lined up straight away, all 100 times I tried, but the amount of force needed to push it on, would have definitely not been safe on jack stands. Lucky I had the rear wheels up on a ramp.
Thank you so much!! I have big favor to ask... I am a week away from this project and wondering if it is mandatory to purge the system? Should I buy the 7650 kit? Thank you again.
It isn't mandatory, but it's definitely a good idea to make sure you get any old/dirty fluid out of the system! Other angles if you don't have the CTA-7650 tool can be to drain the torque converter (removed more fluid from the system than draining from the pan) or adding another fluid/filter change into the mix a little while after your service, to get any of the residual dirty fluid flushed out.
Only way to improve this Trans video would be to wear Blue gloves ; sometimes the black ones stop one from seeing the parts being handled . Just a thought ! Well done Allen P.
Thank you for the note; something to consider for sure!
I got a 2001 cuatromatic it didn't want to shift in to the third speed. I really think it has something to do something whit the cilenoides and conductor plate. what do u think. It hasn't run in 3 years😢.
@@joseg.8589change the whole gearbox! It costs less to replace than repair!
Absolutely priceless clip, thanks for uploading this!
This guy is a Master mechanic with a HUGE capital "M"!
My 2004 CLK320 had 9 bolts holding the plate. And 4 liters of oil was more than enough. Very good video though - it took me through it step by step.
I was just looking at doing this to my C32 AMG, you guys are the best in the business!
just did some videos on my C55
Lol same :)
Im also gonna do this on my c32 but i have a feeling the tcc might be cooked bc it had so much slip under load bc it went into limp
Thanks this is super helpful! At the advice of some forum members I am doing this to my 2001 Jaguar XJR which thankfully uses the same transmission.
Nice work!
Awesome job,I have a 2000 e320 wagon,my transmision shift hard and some gears take longer when it's cold, feels dry,feels like it needs fluid change,I have to let it warm up alot,when the car it's really hot transmision works fantastic!
Finally a 722.6 Service video from a company I can trust!
Greetin, great video. Question: after replacing the conductor plate on my 1998-2003 Mercedes-Benz ml due a faulty output speed sensor, does my vehicle need be programmed?
Ohh my... Thank you!!! I'm just about to do some work on my 2001 E320 with this same transmission 🥳🥳🥳👍
Good luck, Hajile! Let us know if you ended up staying cleaner than I did!
-Danny
just did some videos on my C55
Great video as usual from FCP and the gang.
Excellent 🎊 methodical and comprehensive
Thank you 🙏
Learned a lot
I am planning to do this.
Great video. love my 1998 W210 E320 but my 722.6 has been dumping hard into 3rd and sometimes (when cold) not going into 3rd at all. And once in a while sticking in 3rd. After it goes through the gears a couple times it works fine. This video was so informative, I know so much more about how my transmission works and I know to perform this service if I feel it will solve the issues. I'm off the Merc. mechanic to get a proper scan. And then hopefully I get to wrench on my transmission instead of replacing it. wish me luck.
Best of luck with this endeavor, Adam!
Very informative video, thanks for posting! I have a ‘99 C230 Kompressor with 297k miles on the original transmission. Only issue I’m noticing is harder shifts when cold, especially 1-2. I’m planning to order the service kit you offer including the conductor plate, etc., but my question is with the high miles do you recommend getting fresh solenoids as well? What else is a good idea to refresh while in there? I do not know when the transmission was serviced last. Thanks!
Hi Colton! We love a good W202!
Fluid, filter and conductor plate will generally be good as far as general preventative maintenance goes, assuming you don't have any codes at the moment. If you've noticed shifts flaring between gears, then you may want to consider adding on any/all of the overlap sleeve and spring upgrade kits for the valve body mentioned in this video.
If the car is driving normally aside from that 1-2 shift, I wouldn't rush into doing the shift solenoids. The behavior you're noting is somewhat typical of a TCC lock-up solenoid (2402701700) showing its age in a colder climate, often resulting in a very hard feeling "shift" as the converter locks in first gear, followed by an actual shift to second gear moments later. This is an easy "while you're in there," and is relatively inexpensive, whereas replacing the solenoids can quickly tally up to a hefty bill.
Hope this helps! Let us know how the car drives following your service.
-Danny
Just threw a p0720 code in my C240, planning on changing the conductor plate. Thanks for the help guys!!
Good luck, you got this!
09:38 - The 2 guys in the background looking on in awe.😂😂
Enjoyed the Tutorial. I always get good info from you guys..
Thanks, this was very helpful!
Thank you. Was double checking if the valve body was 8 Nm
Great info ..engine must be running when checking the fluid level.
Exactly
Hi how are you ? Thank you for your beautiful, informative videos... I have a big problem. After changing the board, testing the solenoids without pressurizing, complete disassembly of the valves, installation of Sonnax, draining of new BVA and converter...connector to controller, my problem remains the same...box in degraded mode and not more than 3000 revolutions.... It goes from D to R with jerk and does not shift gears... I cannot pressure test the solenoids.... thank you for your help...
Hello did you find out what it was your problem?
@@Στεφανος-σ7λ its indispensable to way by Mercedes Box.... thanks
Great video, thanks for taking the time to post it. I recently ordered and received your kit to change out the conductor plate, filter, gasket, and Connector. I have not done it yet. I have a 2001 Mercedes E320 Sport giving me problems it has 156,000 miles on it. When checked the vehicle indicates a P0715 code "Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor A Circuit".
The car was driving well, recently took a trip to Birmingham, AL, and back with no problems. Drove it to work Monday - Wednesday about 60 miles roundtrip. Got in it early that Thursday morning, backed out of my driveway, and started up the street, and I noticed that it seemed to only change out once. So when I got to the main highway I gave it more gas and the engine went into a high rev, and then would no longer pull. So I pulled over and noted that my car would not pull when placed in any gear. So I exited the vehicle to confirm there were no leaks.
I turned the car off and cranked it again and nothing changed. So I parked it to later have the vehicle towed to my home. Upon removal from the tow truck, we cranked the vehicle and were able to place it in reverse drove it off the ramp, then into drive, and drove the vehicle down into my driveway. Since then it has been parked. However, I was able to notice that when cracked and the engine is cold the transmission pulls both in reverse and drive, but as the vehicle warms up it has less of a pull when moved to both reverse or drive.
All the research I have found pointed me to replacing the conductor plate, input shaft speed sensor, shift solenoids, and a change of filter and fluids. I also found my TCM to be full of fluid. I cleaned it out with contact cleaner. What are your thoughts and what would you suggest I do please sir?
Hi there Paul! Sorry to hear that you got stranded.
Sounds like you've got a solid plan to tackle the issue. We agree that it sounds like it may be time for a conductor plate and general refresh (and given your mileage, it would certainly be within the window for expected failure; unlikely to have been replaced previously, but also getting up there in age). In fact, you may not even "need" those shift solenoids; the speed sensing is done by the conductor plate, and unless you find metal debris or cause for greater concern when you drain the fluid and drop the transmission pan, the solenoids will generally be fine. Though, at 156,000 miles, it's never a bad idea to replace them "while you're in there" for peace of mind as they're a bit of a pain to get to!
As your engine oil does, transmission oil gets more viscous with temperature; fluid that's hot and at operating temperature will look almost watery compared to fluid at room temperature. Add in the fact that fluid also thins with age, and you likely have your answer as to why the car is most unhappy at operating temperature; the fluid becomes so viscous the system isn't able to operate within the tolerances it was designed to. Freshening things up with a conductor plate replacement and a fluid/filter service will typically do the trick for something speed-sensor related, so you should be good to go with the parts you're planning to order (don't forget a 722.6 transmission dipstick as well! You'll need to order one for the filling process).
Unfortunate that the TCM is full of oil, but certainly not uncommon. A lot of the time, cleaning it out as you did will do the trick, pending the amount of fluid that entered the module. If it's still having issues afterwards, a replacement can be done with a 1:1 match of the TCM and is relatively inexpensive. Definitely make sure you replace the pilot bushing during your service to keep any additional fluid from wicking into the TCM, though (if you ordered our 722.6 service kit, this will be included)!
Best of luck!
Euro team thanks so much for the reply. Here is my order number to confirm that everything needed except the solenoids. I do have a tranny dipstick. Can you send me a link to the solenoids please? Let me know if you need the vin #.
Chłopie, życie mi uratowałeś tym filmem, dzięki tobie naprawiłem sobie skrzynie !
Równy z ciebie gość, oby tak dalej, z fartem
Miales problem ,ze skrzynia przechodzila w tryb awaryjny?
@@Kermit1910Kermit tak i przeciągała biegi, na początku czasem, ale potem już praktycznie cały czas, winowajca to płyta przewodząca mechatroniki sterownika w skrzyni, nowa wsadzona olej wymieniony i bangla
@@maxioking1508 u mnie jest taki problem ,ze jade i nagle przechodzi w tryb awaryjny nie ma kickdowna w pedale brakuje mocy musze ponownie odpalic auto ...szukam przyczyny co to powoduje
@@Kermit1910Kermit byczku, musisz sprawdzić kompem, bo tak to będziemy razem wróżyć z fusów, porządna diagnostyka i wtedy będziesz wiedział. Czytałem na amerykańskich forach, że ta płyta Czarna pada najczęściej, może też być oring na wtyczce skrzyni, podobne objawy, a oczywiście sprawdź czy są wycieki i ile jest oleju, ta skrzynia dostaje pierdolca jak ma mało oleju. Czekam na info
@@Kermit1910Kermit kom mi się nie opublikował, teraz zobaczyłem, wybacz
Do all 722.6 transmissions use the same conductor plate? Ie would the CL600 trans use the same conductor plate as an ML 270 D ?
Is there a way to make fluid go into the adapter for the flush instead of air?
at 23:00 you talk about at cold weather jerk with 1-2 shift that is the torque converter locking up. I have this happening. What is the solution?
The best video in UA-cam thank you
To check the level you don’t need to introduce completely the stick?
HI Danny. Both my rear speed sensors fail when I hit 3rd gear.
I'm guessing it's the N3 sensor on the conductor plate that's to blame, you think? (SRT8)
I've already changed the rear speed sensors and TCM, and it's not fixed the problem...
Just got My 722.6 out of limp mode shifts okay but can’t use manual shift mode what gives?
To remove the adapter plug to the connector to the conductor plate, do the transmission pan need to be removed first,
You'll want to drain the fluid first so as not to make a mess, but the pan can stay on
hey friend, id be really grateful if you can help me out. i was working on a w210 om606 with 722.6 transmission and i had it running for maybe 10 minutes without transmission fluid, which i didnt know at the time. it was in neutral almost the entire time, but i tried to put it in drive and revved it a couple times. it it possible that did some damage or does it have any kind of safety due to low pressure or something? i would really appreciate a response, thank you. cheers!
Last summer i changed the conductorplate on my 2009 W204 with 722.6 5G tronic but the gearbox still not working properly so i need to change the solenoids and the overlap sleeves to because i think thats the problem, have have two modes on the gearbox, C and S, it will not shift at all in mode C but it is possible to drive the car in mode S only if starting from zero very gently or else it will not shift to second gear. Once it shifts to second gear it works just fine in mode S, until i park and turn of the engine and start it up again, same thing, need to start from zero very gentle. No error codes at all. Once the second gear is in and the oil starts to get warm it works great with kickdowns and shifting properly i mode S. Only gear one seem to work in mode C. Question: Would i replace all solenoids and the three overlap sleeves, or just a few solenoids + all sleeves ?
Hi HearGear! For a 722.6, we'll always recommend double-checking the fluid level as a first course of action, just due to the strange characteristics these gearboxes can exhibit when slightly over- or under-filled. Make sure you're checking it at the Mercedes-recommended 80-deg C.
We only got the 722.9 for the W204 here, so yours is a bit of an interesting case. When you replaced parts previously, did you find any debris in the transmission pan? Additionally, did you reset any existing codes when you replaced the conductor plate?
I don't believe overlap sleeves are part of the equation in this instance, as issues pertaining to that part of the valve body will generally result in flaring between gear changes.
Let me know!
-Danny
@@fcpeuro There was no codes in the first place, the level is spot on at 80C, when i bought the car the previous owner had the car for oilchange at a Mercedes dealer car-repairshop so the level was good also before i changed the conductor plate. There was no debris in the pan, when it shifts from gear 1 to 2 its a slight delay like you mentioned in this video, as the engine coming up to temperature the gears in S mode shifts perfect when driving. Most i am thinking the Solenoids because the gearbox does not work at all in Comfort mode, only gear 1, if i am lucky i might get it to shift to second gear it i am super super gentle on the acceleration. Thanks
Very well done!!! A Very Informative video! Thank You FCPeuro))
Thank you, Besik!
so what happens next if after changing the conductor plate and the 6 solenoid to brand new ones and yet the car does not shift to higher gears, what is the next step to check?? The selector switch??? I really am desperate for your technical advise!!! Thanks
Hello did you find out what it was the problem?
Because I am in same situation.
Thanks
@@Στεφανος-σ7λsame. Reset codes and still stuck in limp mode.
@@1R1SHxSN1P3R In the same boat. From what I've read you need a certain scan tool like an icarsoft model to talk directly to the TCM for a reset and not just clear the codes. I've ordered the MBII scanner so we'll see if that's the case.
Of course there could be a bunch of other things going on like fluid levels, ATF wicking up wires to the TCM, a bad 13 pin connector, etc etc etc...
Great explanation but after replacing the conductor plate for 2007 Chrysler 300C 5.7l do you need to program the TCM??
Thank you
Love this video felt like I was in school question got a 2000 e320 station wagon can I up grade to blue tops with out a tune 🗽🇹🇹
Is that will work on sprinter van with that transmission
excellent video, I have the same gearbox on the ml 270 TD, it works perfectly both hot and cold, no vibrations, 290 thousand km, I changed the oil, filter and plug, everything is ok but the only problem is between 3rd and 4th gear there is a delay grafting. sometimes it goes up by a few rpm, sometimes by 400/500, sometimes it goes well. They tell me it's a very common problem, what do you think?
I'd give the valve body a bit of love whenever you replace the conductor plate in the future! The 3-to-4 shift is the toughest one for these transmissions and will almost always flare a bit when these are tuned. What you're experiencing may very well just be typical behavior of an older 722.6, but replacing the overlap sleeves as we did in this video with the Sonnax kit can definitely help.
Just for clarity, the CTS tool only pushes fluid from the valve body, not the torque converter?
Whats the part number and where can i find the new overlap sleeves?
Absolute best transmission conductor plate replacement video and I’ve seen them all and done this job a few times on Mercedes and on Range Rovers. never had to change the conductor plate though you Will have to have the new conductor plate. Programed correct?
When I drive for 20 minutes in my car, then the gearbox starts to move and only from the third gear? What is that and how I can fix that? Thank you for answer.
Hi i have an mb 320 cdi whit 722.6 .300tkm on clock good service history i changed atf oil and now i imagen the gearbox slipping more i used fuchs oil 236.14 oil is it to thin?i have also tried whit factory reset
Hello from Greece !
I have MERCEDES E200 2008 w211 with 184ps and automatic transmission….i reached today over 450.000 kilometres…….i am servicing my automatic transmission every 60.000 kilometres ….oil , filter , sock …….everything was ultra smooth in all 450.000 kilometres…..3 days ago the car started making something weird at the 3rd gear …..something like stuttering and luck of speed up ……I’m giving power with the gas pedal and it stutters…….in the other gears seems to be good for now ……I think that something is wrong with the torque converter I assume ………any opinions for me to start seeing with a garage ?? Also is that symptom related to torque converter or conductor plate ? Thanks in advance ….
So just to confirm the dipstick that you sell for the 722.6 isnt an actual dipstick but a tool to check the fluid level? I need to do a trans service on my 02 c230k as its throwing a couple transmission codes and shifts poorly if it isnt getting stuck. I was given this car and i dont know if the trans was ever serviced
That's correct, the dipstick (FEB-38023 on our site) is solely for checking fluid level and gets removed once you've got your level situated. If the dipstick cap has never been touched before, you may have to break off the red locking pin to remove the transmission tube fill cap to insert your dipstick (though the black tube cap pops right back on top of the tube without the locking pin if you're just checking the level, and our kit includes a new locking pin if you're servicing). As Mercedes generally coins these as "lifetime fill," I wouldn't be surprised if it's due for fluid and a filter as many 722.6 cars are.
Don't forget to clear the transmission codes following your service and before you go for the first drive!
Will this work on the 722.6 non amg
Good day, I have a 2008 Mercedes Benz.. brought it to the shop for a service, oil change etc.. one day after the service the car slams into reverse and drive gear, additional the transmission won’t shift out, it’s just driving in 1st gear.. brought it back to the shop, they said it’s the transmission valve body..
Hi!
Someone before me already described a similar error, if the shift between 1st and 2nd gear is harder when cold, and when rolling slowly sometimes it seems to suddenly shift down and up, could the TCC lock-up solenoid be at fault?
thanks for the video!
Having a code P2107 for Modulating Control Solenoid valve after replacing conductor plate. Does that mean it needs replaced, or could that be a pilot bushing issue?
How common is it for the solenoids to go bad , my car would slip a lot before it went into full limp mode so maybe the TCC Any benz wizards?
Thanks a lot for this fantastic video! I have one question: does the solenoid upgrade also work in a 722.9 transmission? It is a 7G Tronic, not 7G Tronic Plus. Thanks a lot!
Why did nt you knock the over flow tube over with a screw driver?
I have a 2005 c230
What kit do you offer for that car?
Current symptoms; very slow to shift at cold, between 1 , 2, and 3
What is the upgrade, what does it improve?
idk
If I get all new Silinoids do they have to be programmed at the end ? I ask since you said the old ones have to go back in the same spot
I have a 1989 Mercedes 300E gasoline vehicle that shakes when in reverse and brakes are applied. Forward gears work normally. Do you think the repair is DIY? If so, please advise parts and instructions.
hello,
if my torque converter slips in basically any speed what yoy think would be the issue? TQ changed with another one and does the same....does not llock up and the car is mooving decently at high rpms...
thanks
There is no link to the overlap sleeve , like all the other parts.
Great video , well explained . You make it look easy like Mario Lemieux played Hockey
Thanks !!!
It's a kit from Sonnax (Part 68942-05K). I don't think FCP Euro sells it. I got mine from another online vendor.
All very easy when you have a vehicle lift, and a modern fully equipped workshop which hardly anyone has
Hello I just recently did my conductor plate service but I feel liKe I put the brown tips in the wrong location because the code that I’m still receiving is a pressure solenoid B code. Is there anyway you can help me with information? I see that the serial says B1 & B2 on the parts, but which one would be the defective/misplaced one ?
Hello
A paper towel should not be used when checking the automatic oil.
Always check with a piece of leather.
(a leather, for example, with which the car is leathered after washing)
I use coffee filters
So pretty much all these transmissions including say from a 2003 SL500 would require 2 solenoids to be changed. if were looking to improve shift time correct?
Good job
What’s the average cost of this job
Yes, one of the best videos on 722.6 on UA-cam if not the best ;).
Thank you very much.
Are the blue top solenoids for AMG models only? I have Vito with V6 and I wonder if they will make a difference or is it waste of money? Thanks
Thanks for the kind words Petr! We'll generally recommend these blue tops for the "W5A580" variants of the 722.6 typically used in AMG cars, as they have a torque limit that will generally behave better/safer. As the solenoids aid shift pressure they'll always make a difference, but you'll want to do the research to be certain that they'll work on your application smoothly and safely.
As for the overlap sleeves and shift solenoids, those will definitely be effective services on your Vito as well! Especially if its showing any of these indications of aging/wear.
-Danny
@@fcpeuro Thank you Danny
At what mileage would you recommend changing the conductor plate? Mine has 184000km, and trans has been serviced at 61000km and 150000km
Hi there Spidepig09! Pending the frequency of fluid/filter services and driving style, the conductor plate can be good for as long as 200,000 miles in some cases (~320,000km). Yours has been serviced a good deal more than the vast majority of these "lifetime-filled" transmissions which bodes very well for its longevity. This being said, the worst way to figure out that it's time for a conductor plate replacement is when you're trying to drive somewhere and it isn't cooperating.
I'd generally recommend replacing the conductor plate every 100,000-120,000 miles (160,000-190,000km) to be sure that it doesn't leave you stuck on the side of the road. Additionally, check to make sure you don't have transmission fluid entering the TCM through the pilot bushing! It's unfortunately very common on the original factory pilot bushing, and can also strand you. The kit containing everything you need for the service is in the video description.
-Danny
@@fcpeuro thanks for the detailed answer!
My conductor plate speed sensors failed after 107,000 km and 17 years.
Hello how do I test this 2001 320 slk 😅
Superb video!
I have a 2009 3.0CRD Grand cherokee that is slipping a little if cold started and put straight into reverse. If I wait 15 seconds it's fine. First second shift is hard when warm. Any ideas?
Hello Troy. What mileage is your Jeep at, and have you ever had the transmission fluid/filter replaced? Often, odd shift behavior on a 722.6 is a byproduct of the "lifetime fluid" losing lubricity/viscosity over time. A fluid and filter change may work wonders here.
-Danny
Where can I get all these parts in Europe? Great video - thanks!
please do one for 722.9!
I have a 06 e350 4matic what is the correct shift rpms when in s mode. Mine seems a little long before shifting
i have a 2006 200cdi om646.963 and a 722.6 will this upgrade work on that?
Also could you tell me were to get that sleeve you replaced on the valve body?
I saw an other video from your Chanel about checking the level with another tech and he did that with engine idled so now I’m confused
Hi, i have ml55 amg, cold and also hot has not nice, harsh shift when stopping, transmission is downshifting from 2 to 1 gear. What you suggest to replace?
Hi. I have a problem with mi W203 Mercedes 220. I have a problem with the 722.6 gearbox, namely a 2nd gear remains blocked (error P2561). I changed the conductor plate, the oil, the filter, I measured the resistance of the solenoids and they are within the parameters, but the problem persists. The oil level is ok. What else could I check? I'm from europe.
Hello.why will this transmission not comunicate with my obd2 tool? My reader is a snap on solus.but it can not comunicate with the transmission.
Hello, I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2007 WH (European model) with DGU 5-Spd Auto W5J400 transmission. I have a problem switching gears from 2nd to 3rd only, it hesitates doing it and when is doing the rev ramps above 3500 rot/min. That is the only symptom. Any idea what might be? the 2-3 shift solenoids? thank you!
FCP, we appreciate your time and work, thank you very much... Am driving a w203 Mercedese Year 2001, but am still confused on how many liters of oil do i have to put in my transmission.
I did my gear box service, changed the oil, oil filter, seal and the Automatic Transmission Conductor Adapter Plug and now my car does not change gears.
What could be the problem ?
Thanks for your support.
Hi there! A couple of possibilities here, but a good first step would be scanning the transmission to see what codes exist.
A first step would be to use your 722.6-specific oil dipstick to check your fluid level (we have a video about how to check the fluid level on your 722.6 with Kyle if you're uncertain), as a low fluid level will almost always result in either an inability to move forward or a "limp mode" when trying to gain speed. Fluid on refill can vary from several liters if you do a full drain like I did with the CTA tool, to around 4 if you did not.
From there, I'd recommend backtracking. Make sure the plug for the transmission computer is fully seated and the TCU itself doesn't have any fluid inside of the plugs. If all of these are done and the car still won't drive, you may want to consider dropping the pan again to make sure that the shifting dowel pin is slotted back into the shifter bracket.
Most commonly though, the cause of this is too little fluid. It's very common for owners to complete the service, refill the transmission, start the vehicle and go for a drive. With each time the vehicle shifts and the converter engages/disengages, fluid will circulate and the level will drop. This is why there's a recommended procedure to the fluid refill.
Hope this helps!
-Danny
Is it necessary to reprogram when replacing the electronic board?
Must be year of conductor plate going out or just me??? Very informative video thank you FCP euro
I’m having delayed shifts and and not as smooth and powerful shifting in like 2nd gear what could that be I have a 2013 dodge charge se 3.6
Would this solenoid upgrade be beneficial for a non amg car?
Mine is a 2004 E500 4matic sedan with the 722.6 five speed.
Hi does this kit fit c180 2003 w203 Kompressor 271??
Great video
hey guys !! I would like to upgrade my 722.626 ... what is the reference of each solenoid?? can you tell me? thanks!!
Hi David! Check the description for everything we used in this video!
-Danny
722.6 has hard time staying locked up when cold and harsh lock up between 1st and 2nd. P0741 code. Fluid is clean. Valve body issue ?
Can u make video for 722.9
Hi Ahmed! While we don't have a conductor plate replacement video for the 722.9 just yet (the transmission computer being integrated into the conductor plate and requiring coding after replacement makes it a bit trickier) we do have a comprehensive 722.9 fluid/filter service video published! Just search our channel to find Kyle's DIY guide.
-Danny
trans fluid migrating through the wires to the insides of the remote trans computer? serious engineering there...
overlap sleeve failed again? need to polish OD and bore
What size are the T30 Bolts used to hold the valve body to the bottom or transmission?.... i striped 2 bolts and needed to order new ...
What is the technical name for that part that you changed for the “overlap piston”??
I need the link for the kit please
just did some videos on my C55 valve body parts supplied by FCP Euro
Where can i find these overlap sleeves? I don’t recall seeing a part number listed
Hi there! The Sonnax overlap sleeves I used in this video can be found on their site under the part number 68942-05K.
-Danny
I HAVE JUST RELACED MY CONDUDTOR PLATE AND DISCOVERED THE PLACTIC HOODS OVER THE SOLENOIDS ARE MISSING!
this is on a T1N sprinter.
Is this a problem and does anyone have a part# for the hoods?
Thx
gb
Not a problem.
My pilot bushing lined up straight away, all 100 times I tried, but the amount of force needed to push it on, would have definitely not been safe on jack stands. Lucky I had the rear wheels up on a ramp.
I like to warm the o rings in the sunshine for a few minutes , then use a smear of vaseline on the o rings and it should go in easier.
Thank you so much!! I have big favor to ask... I am a week away from this project and wondering if it is mandatory to purge the system? Should I buy the 7650 kit? Thank you again.
It isn't mandatory, but it's definitely a good idea to make sure you get any old/dirty fluid out of the system! Other angles if you don't have the CTA-7650 tool can be to drain the torque converter (removed more fluid from the system than draining from the pan) or adding another fluid/filter change into the mix a little while after your service, to get any of the residual dirty fluid flushed out.
This is a great video. FCP should start offering in house services like this.