My Kitchen Renovation Knock Through
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- Welcome to week 1 of my kitchen renovation - where we're demolishing load bearing walls, installing steel beams and trying not to cause too many structural cracks....
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0:00 Introduction
0:48 Disconnecting the Radiators
3:21 Temporary Kitchen
4:58 Project Run Through
5:49 Acrow Supports
8:19 Steel Beam Install
10:02 New Ceiling Joists
12:03 Subscribe to Me!
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#kitchen #renovation #DIY - Навчання та стиль
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Wow - immense project Charlie! Looking forward to following along. Cheers for the shout-out bud and see you soon! 👍😎
Cheers buddy. 👊
Great videos as always, but did anyone notice the dog at 5:28?
That is one for Jeremy Beadle!!
05:28 - Dog looks relieved! ;-)
Yes , I missed that 🤦🤣
Really enjoying this one. Looking forward to the next installment. Trying to update and reconfigure an old home is quite daunting but you seem to be holding up well. Having contractors that show up on time and know what they're doing is a godsend.
I've aged 10 years watching that, a mighty project for sure.
Yes it's mildly stressful I have to say!
Nice to see. I am doing this project right now and knocking through a kitchen and living room. Ive learnt a lot as well and now lopking at best ways to plan heating and electrics.
Great video and it looks like the builders got lucky having a job at yours, with the nice flow of tea/coffee and materials, just what every builder wants :D With the floors I've always done hardcore, sand, dpm, insulation, concrete, pipework and leveling screed, but there's many ways to do it, thicknesses of these would vary and it may need steel within the concrete depending on the ground.. I'm sure the local building inspector would advise
Looking forward to watching this progress. Great first instalment, Charlie. Thank you👍👍👍
Thanks, I really appreciate that. With all the work I haven't had the time I usually have to edit (spent most of the weekend doing it) so it's nice to hear positive feedback like that 👍
Great project Charlie, looks like you had a good work split with your builders, keeping your hands dirty and getting stuck in.
When we had our house extension we wanted flat ceilings as well, caused more work for the builders to hide the steels totally in the ceiling and we ended up with small protruding brick piers in the kitchen and lounge but it was worth it in the end. Our temporary kitchen was in the lounge which made for a cosy experience!
Surprising about the cracks, we didn’t have anything like that. Might be because of your house being older that it was more susceptible. More DIY filling !
Thanks for finding the time to share this Charlie, and good luck with the rest of the renovation !
Thanks 👊
Awesome video. Thank you Charlie.
Brilliant…..I love a kitchen renovation.
Thanks. It felt a bit botched together but I really wanted to get an update out before too much work has been done.
Wow, Charlie. Major respect. Nothing daunts you! I love watching your videos and benefiting from all your advice. Thanks so much for taking the pain in advance for the team :o)
Thanks, really humbled you enjoy my videos.. It would be a very lonely soleless job without you guys providing me such amazing encouragement in the comments 👊
Great info Charlie. Love your Lab photo bombing the bit where you’re explaining the steels… Class.))
Good video as usual. Reminds me of when we had our kitchen done.
Another superb video. Looks like an awesome project, looking forward to the next instalment
Nice work, well done.
Fave vid in a while! So much going on there and I really want to see the next episode 🙂
Great project and I love the idea of the temporary kitchen
Looking forward to this one 👌🏼 thanks for the videos man !!
Really excited about this charlie!
Thanks Darren 👊
Great video Charlie. Can't wait to see the other parts. Those cracks would terrify me, but I guess the structural engineer put your mind at ease.
Haha love the dog just going to the loo behind you at 5:30
Ah-ha. Looks like a very interesting series of videos, especially considering i'm looking to do this myself in the next 2 years. Looking forward to this, especially the underfloor heating bit..
well done charlie !
Off to a great start Charlie! Thank you For always sharing with us!💖👍😎JP
Thanks, I appreciate that 👊
Those cracks look pretty scary!
They do don't they. Largely cosmetic though and caused in part by the fact that wall is a bit of a patch work (I suspect infill maybe from an old doorway or window rather than a decent brick wall. 👍
Great video Charlie !!,,,,,best wishes going forward with your project !!
Thanks, I appreciate that 👊
Can’t wait to watch this develop. We are going to be doing something similar but smaller in the coming years. Already taken out a pillar that was supporting the bathroom above and fitted two RSJ but for the time being we are now living with some exposed ceiling and occasional brick dust. Love your channel and you’ve helped me out on many small projects since we moved in two years ago. 👍🏼
Do everything the opposite of what he does
@@dgmclar Why’s that? What did Charlie do wrong? Genuine question
Hello, when I did underfloor heating we combined it into the slab, 100mm concrete use a393 mesh to tie the underfloor heating to. you don't need a screed, and that will save you 50mm. We placed on 100mm insulation. We had natural slate flooring on top which ranged between 20 and 30mm thick. the heat came through well. By the way I am a chartered surveyor, knew what I was doing!!!
Really interesting video Charlie
Thanks, and apologies for that comment, which was spam from someone using my logo 😩
For our subfloor after excavating, we had plastic sheeting, hardcore (40mm roadstone) compacted (40-60mm), sand compacted,(30mm), cement (80-100mm), 100mm PIR, plastic sheeting, pipework, pumped in screed.
Waited 20 days (last summer in the 40-degree heat), then had the top 3mm ground off, applied primer, decoupling matting, then tiled. Massive undertaking but well worth it in the end
Looking forward to watching your progress
Why does the screed needed to be sanded 3mm and apply a primer? Could you not tile directly?
@@aleixingleselias3882 scrapes off all the water, dust and crap that floats to the top. Leaves a really shinny none adhesive layer
DIY kitchens seems to be great. They’ve got good reviews. I went with magnet as we haggled hard with them and got everything slot cheaper. Only problem was, their measuring was pants, and a few things had to altered afterwards. But good luck with the kitchen. Always a hard time to deal with a temporary kitchen!
Really interested to see this one Charlie. I'll be doing something similar, though a smaller span @3M. Trying to figure out if it's a job I can tackle myself or if I need a builder. Like you, I want to recess the beam in and appreciate it adds complexity. If i wasn't doing that I'd be pretty confident doing a standard RSJ install.
Well done Charlie keep it up great video looking forward to the next one ❤
Thanks, I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 👊
Inspirational. Such a great channel 👌
Thanks so much, humbled you like it 👊
We used Diy-Kitchen I can definitely recommend them.
I liked the dark scenes; a real war correspondent feel to them.
Well done Charlie, as a DIYer like yourself it was hard getting the builders in. I also had that fibre board in my house, and wondered if it was a) asbestos for fire safety, or b) to stop noise transmission. We'd probably both prefer if it wasn't the former!
Hi Charlie, looks like mayhem! We did our kitchen renovation a few years ago which included fully digging out the old floor, built back up with 100mm type 1/sand, dpm, 100mm oversight concrete sub, 100mm celotex on top, another dpm (different grade), underfloor pipes then liquid screed & finish flags. Expensive but well worth the effort and the underfloor wet heating system is so good with a constant low level heat. Good luck this looks like a big one! 💪
That's really helpful, thanks. As you say, everyone thinks you're mad at the time but it will be worth all the pain. Kingspan have a good u value calculator on their website. I think I might be able to get away with 50 or 60mm insulation. 🤞
@@CharlieDIYte obvious i know but more is better and if you are there for the long haul you only want it done once. we only had 75mm as our builders poured the oversite too high meaning there wasnt enough space for 100mm of insulation, screed incl pipes and floor covering. it's fine but if i did it all again I would be going way past building regs to 150mm as it will give you a slab that stays warm for so much longer.
Wow Charlie.😀👍
👍👍👍Thanks
Hi Charlie, starting question is the heat source for your underfloor, if there is any possibility that it may become heat pump, you’ll want a much closer mesh of pipes, as the circulation temperature is likely to be around 50-55° rather than the 65-70° from a gas boiler. We retrofitted underfloor in our studio, as the ceiling height is 4m it was a no brainier to fit a special insulated pipe guide with thick foil between the pipes raising the floor level by about 50mm. The laminate flooring went straight on top of this. For the first year we had a regular thump every 10 minutes when the thermostat recalculated and shut off the circulation momentarily, we had to get the installers back to create a partial bypass to relive the shock
@Charlie DIYte Great vid. With the cracks upstairs I'd say it was most definitely due to not supporting the brick wall that rests on the steel adequately and only relying on the propped floor joists to take the load while prepping for the steel. Its hard to see from the video exactly how your house is configured but from what I gathered the wall upstairs ( Brick? )in your daughters bedroom rests on the steel? and its this wall that has likely dropped a little causing all the cracks.
I'm guessing here but I assume all the floor joists were sat in beam pockets and there was brickwork in-between each joist before the wall was removed. That little bit of brickwork was what transferred the load to the downstairs wall. When the wall was removed the load was transferred temporarily on to the propped floor joists which is where the problem is caused, this is because unless there is no gap between the top of joist and the upstairs wall it will settle. There should have been Acro props also directly supporting the wall upstairs either by removing the wall in sections or by using strong boy adapters until Acro can be placed directly underneath. So many people mess this up its a joke.
Then when you go to put the steel in you switch the Acro's that are directly underneath to Acro's with Strong boys (to allow room for the steel) and only take them out when the steel is packed adequately and any brickwork has gone off (Usually a couple days after)
Your alternative of using needle steels would have also worked but is far more invasive and would require much more rebuilding of brickwork upstairs (due to the pockets) and making good. All that was required was to take a bit more time when knocking the wall down to ensure it was propped correctly.
Also when you drain your heating if you close all the rad TRVs then you won't need to wait for the whole system to drain and just the pipework. Saves a lot of time.
Sorry for the ramble, hope it helps and makes sense.
Thanks for that. Great bit of advice. Yes I suspected they missed a step! and the cracking has happened in part because the wall upstairs has areas of infill from doors, windows and the like so was lacking the structural integrity of interlocking bricks. Oh well, it's reasonably cosmetic and at least it's all propped up and packed now. Good tip on the rads. The upstairs rads are all on smart TRVs which automatially close at the end of a program , except from in the bathroom which I should have closed. A good point I should have mentioned 👌👊
Hold tight! Are we about to see a youtube crossover during your u/f heating install ? 😁😁 Good luck btw Charlie!
oo I'm here first! I like to see a kitchen reno..
Nice one, really appreciate the quick comment 👌👏👊
100mm (min) road stone
Membrane 1200 gauge
100mm concrete
Membrane 500 gauge
100mm to 150mm PIR
Membrane 500 gauge
Underfloor heating pipes
Flowscreed 50/60mm
Finished floor choice 👍
Thanks, really helpful 👊
Been doing a lot of research on the underfloor heating question. Seems to come down to whether you want a low profile system which heats up fast and sits on routed insulated panels (but is still more efficient than rads as its at a lower flow temp) or go the whole hog digging out a floor with as much PIR as you can get away with and the pipes in 50mm of screed with the screed acting as a huge thermal mass. It seems to come down to "how much can I be arsed to take the concrete up and what will I gain if I do" and in your case it looks like you might as well.
Thanks. That's exactly what I'm thinking. 👊
Loved this! Looking forward to the next one. Is the temporary kitchen meeting requirement?
Thanks 👊 It will be when the oven's in and I've plumbed in the dishwasher in the porch next door. It also needs some more shelving.
OH yES!!!!
Great job Charlie and brilliant, useful Vid as always :-) With those cracks; As you didn't needle the wall at FF level and were just supporting it by supporting the floor joists and hoping they supported the wall (not always the case as often there's a gap between top of joist and masonry above), but then you notched out the top of the joists to make space for the Steel, maybe I've missed something but, what was now supporting the wall?.... maybe the cracks were caused because nothing was supporting the wall properly so it 'Arched' back to the nearest remaingin supporting walls?....
Always better to use a private Building Control company rather than the local council as council inspectors seem to have different guidelines/opinions for example mine told me that i could not seat the timber joists in the web of the steel beam as this was no longer allowed. Instead i had to bolt a timber in each face of the web and then use joist hangers to support the timber joists from the face of these additional timbers. Since then i’ve had someone else contradict that so now i use a private company
Yes that's the conclusion I've come to. Thanks for sharing 👊
I would be using Limecrete, Glapor for your UFH slab, Charlie
Thanks Simon, invaluable advice. I'll look into that. 👊
Hi Charlie, have a look at nu-heat under floor low build system I’ve been using them for about 30 years
I used Nu-Heat in my house here, Abergavenny, for system 17 years ago and then our Twickenham house about ten years ago and it all worked well each time.
6:10 Dog is like : Holy shit what a mess :)
looks like the builders didn't put enough of a 'crank' on the acrows.... I've just done almost exactly the same and not had cracking like that, my steel was not in place for over a week
You might be right. The trouble is that section of wall is a bit of chaotic infill - it's not proper interlocking bricks so there was no structural integrity when the wall was removed. But bottom line, the cracking wouldn't have happened with decect builders!
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks for the reply Charlie, it makes a difference when UA-camrs do reply, really enjoying your channel, makes me whish I had documented all my projects as like you I do all my own work including a 2 bedroom loft conversion.
Thanks charlie, with all the work youve had to do on this house, i think it would have been easier and cheaper just to buy another house 😂😂😂. Thanks all the same, take care
Thanks. Yes a few people have said that 🤣🤦
Yeah, but that wouldn't be as fun lol
First of al, great project, great job and great video.
I love to watch people work so your videos are always a success to me hehehe (been there done that so I now how it feels to do the job myself so it's double fun watch people work)
Now I am following you for quite a while now and enjoy it very much and see you work giving you and us pleasure and the results are great.
Also you being honest about the mistakes you make on the job and warn people to pay attention when they would pick up a similar project.
But ..... since you live in country and the you probably own the ground, have you ever calculated what the total renovation would cost you in the end (when you started) compared to what it would cost to tear it all down and start new. (if it's not a monumental building)
Maybe for you it is a strange comment but I have seen people here living in the country tearing down a well looking house and build a new one, so curious as I am I approached them and we start a nice conversation and it happened that all the renovation work including removing of old asbestus was more expensive that building a complete new house with the latest isolation technologies and what not, all in consultation with the architectural rules of that village of course.
So I am curious about your comment.
Thanks Charlie and heads up, it's gonna be great in the end, no doubt !!!
Yes you're not the first person to have said that. You're probably right. The issue I have is 1) planners are a nightmare here and unlikely to agree (they rejected an extension a couple of years ago as being out of character with the house) and 2) the works over the years were motivated as much as anything by not having the budget to do anything more dramatic. Same goes now really. If we were to knock it down we'd be saddled with a hefty new mortgage.
What jointing compound did you use. Having some right trouble getting one compression to seal. Used ptfe in end
Rather than notching the floor joists for the flange of the 203UC, could you have not bolted a timber beam to each side of the web and used joist hangers ? Looking forward to the next video :)
Yeh what's holding the joist to the beam connections
@@kiwibird8441 The timber gets bolted to the beam and the floor joists are then connected to this bolted timber via joist hangers. This happens a lot in loft conversions. It depends on what the building inspector wanted.
@@Brown969typically yes, I've done this myself. Can't see it in this video yet
@@Brown969 I was asking about the video joist beam connection. not a description of op comment
Hi Charlie You never know what you will find when doing major projects like this , but it would seem in this case your being able to adapt your design which will improve the final product . I’m sure you will find a buyer for the RSJs , unless you decide to keep them for a future project 😂 . Best wishes and kind regards as always 😀👍👍👍
Thanks, I appreciate that. If I had really thought about it I might have realised the chimney was decorative possibly also by comparing upstairs and downstairs plans but I did that assuming thing, and also relied on what the structural engineer said. Yes I'll see if I get any interest on FB market place. 👊
With a decorative bread oven!! There should be clues in the loft or in roof if there ever was a chimney.
Should tell the boys to put on their steel toe boots, trainers are asking for something to break their feet
5:28 when a dog's gotta go...
Yes, I missed that 🤦🤣
Thanks for the video but this toilet seat comes with 4 different kinds of screws plus the washer I did get the washer in but the rest omg I don't know 😕
Maybe it's not compatible with your toilet pan...
@@CharlieDIYte yes that's possible Charlie thanks for replying back to me 🙏🤗
And second 😂
council inspecters!!!! - Nightmares!
That's partly why I'm paying extra for a consultant. 😉👍
Yay first
👌👏 Great work!
Sorry, I can't help chuckling at your dog at 5.30!
I know! I missed that until you all started pointing it out 🤣🤦
5:28 Dog's the star 🤣💩 💩
Ha! She's always by my side or thereabouts. I hadn't seen that, typical 🤦👍
High Charlie.
Question about knocking through in old buildings.
I have a small 150 year old cottage witj thick stone and brick walls. Id say the external walls are about 600mm thick.
Im looking at gettong 2.5m bifold doors installed innthe kitchen. Last all inclusinve quote i got (doors, knocm througj, RSJ, structural engineer, install, finish ready for paint) was £14k.
Does that sound about right considering im in Somerset?
He also said lazy boys wont work because of the weight of the wall.
I dont know what a good or bad quote at the moment.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
That sounds in the right ball park - maybe at the higher end but IF the builders are good you'll always pay a premium for that and of course you could be in for a lot more if you get it done badly and then have to get someone else in to remediate - plus it's not the most straight forward knock though. So I'd say first off make sure you've got a decent company quoting. Difficult admittedly but word of mouth recommendations or checking other work they've done would be ideal. A decent set of bi-folds - you want triple glazed really - will set you back £4k to £6k again, don't go cheap as you'll regret it. I used a company called IDS Systems. A couple of steels will set you back say £1500k and the external steel will need modifying to provide the detail that can support the outer layer of bricks. Building work should take no more than 2 weeks at £220 per builder per day up here or fixed fee if you can get it. Structural report £350 or so. I'm slightly guessing these figures but it gives you an idea. I agree strong boys won't work with that wall. Are they putting needles through above instead?
@@CharlieDIYte Hi Charlie
They said they will be inserting 4 needles along the 3m section of the wall. The price also includes a gutter to collect water for the low threshold on the bifolds. The door manufacturer is BifoldShop. I'm not sure on their standing in the market.
I'm wondering whether it's worth using the budget for other work on the house, move bathroom upstairs, relocating the staircase, new glazing etc, then coming back to the Bifolds in the kitchen.
@5:28 dog in background
Couple of weeks?? Are they taking the piss mate?
You've lost a lot of weight Charlie, hope you're well mate.
Hi mate. Appreciate the concern. I'm good. I think the weight is more about the exercise than anything. 🤞😬
5:28 When you've got to go, you've got to go. 😃
I hadn't seen that 🤦🤣
5m 29 sec - your dog thinks your plan with the RSJ's is just sh!te.
nothing shocking about that soldering ..
Just very messy for a supposed pro job, but I think there was an apprentice doing a lot of it. Still, it's never leaked.
@@CharlieDIYte
my parents had CH installed in 1972 all copper pipe and soldered like that it has never leaked and still works perfectly only replaced the boiler once in all that time
can't beat copper imho
Charlie...I thought using anything other than copper pipes in a central heating system was a huge no no ?
All modern Barratt boxes have the same speed-fit pipes all over.
Nothing wrong with plastic pipe if properly designed and installed. Often it isn't.
As @Swwils says nothing wrong with it per se, but the upstairs is 15mm and the downstairs micro bore, and arguably the downstairs needs a greater flow rate as it's typically colder.
@Charlie DIYte Charlie...been meaning to ask. If I need 2 radiator TRS valves replaced....do I need to drain the whole system?
@@superamario6464 yes, depending on the type of system it's often easier to bleed from scratch. Hope this helps.
5m29s haha 🐶💩
🤣
Comment from dog at 5:28 is a bit unfair
Fortunately, you live in a not seismic region. Otherwise, your house would have the same fate as thousands in Turkey. From my point of view, that steel beam resting on brick pillars is just a joke.
Is this a joke, you pay builders to come in but then you decide you need to remove the radiators when it should be them ? If I was a builder I would be running a literal mile from you.
They won't be able to touch anything before you stop them telling them they are doing it wrong and you could do it better.
Why? The builders have been contracted to do a specific job. It's no different to various trades doing different work on site.
Think you've missed the fact that Charlie is the paying customer, and the builders/tradesmen are paid to do his bidding!
@@markmiwurdz202 that’s not the way it works mate, builders regularly walk off jobs. It’s a builders market because there’s a lack of the, the pick the jobs they want
@@dgmclar depends if removal of rads was in the contract they agreed with Charlie, their client. If it wasn't priced into the job then why would the builder want to spend the additional time and effort doing it for free?!