Wish I would’ve seen this before I ordered mine… did not know there was a difference 😭 I had removed mine and when I went to install the “new” one I noticed right away
I thought I had done everything right. I checked the plate on the door to see where the car was manufactured. It indicated the car was manufactured in Japan, so I ordered the part accordingly. The correct part that I received on, as I recall my 3rd try was the same as the cars that were manufactured in Canada.
Sorry I did not reply sooner as somehow my notifications got accidently turned off. I thought no one was watching my channel anymore until I just figured it out. Thanks, I always hate working on Toyotas because they are manufactured in so many different locations around the world. Each location in many instances use different parts on the same model. As you may have noticed in the video it took me three orders to get the correct master cylinder.
Awesome video. I'm gonna tackle this on my 2010 Corolla. Did you have any issues after bleeding considering these cars are ABS? Did you just use the usual bleed techniques found on UA-cam?
Thanks for the question Brujo; I just used the normal 2 man bleeding procedure. I now own a power bleeder but at that time I did not have one yet. The biggest problem I had was getting the correct master cylinder. I suggest you remove the old cylinder first and take it with you to the parts store so they can match it up. Thanks for watching my channel.
I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla. In mine I am replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders. Engine is out of the bay; to do this I had to take off the master cylinder but I did so attached to the booster; I still have old break fluid on the reservoir as I plugged the lines and holes and sat the assembly level while doing the other job; the question is, if I do not empty the brake master cylinder and since I am not replacing it, not even disconnecting it from the booster, I do not need to do the bench bleed right? after the car is back together plan is to replace fluid via air compressed vacuum. I have been told to install both clutch master and slave dry as the system has to be bleed out of air with the vacuum kit does very well; while i would like and would not mind to just bench bleed the master like you show here I think if I am not replacing it this is not needed as the reservoir is not empty so the piston chamber has fluid on it. Nice for the master cylinder to come with the gauge; there is a tool sold by Baer BrakeSystems; Push Rod Depth Gauge, part# 6801279 that is helpful and recommended to have to properly adjust the push rods on both master cylinder and booster when replacing; looks like a "H" with short ends and long ends and a rod that secures by a screw; the price is $59.00; I got mine and they shipped fast had it in 2 days time but i will not be needing it at this time as I am not replacing the master cylinder but got it just in case; seems that after all I did not even need to have it but it is one of those things that you say for the price; why not? Great tutorial by the way. Thanks for sharing.
You sound a lot like me, sometimes I must have a tool, I do not have an immediate need for it and may never use it but I still must have it. if you are not replacing the master cylinder then I see no need to bench bleed it. Enjoyed reading about your project, keep in touch
Do I have to do the process with the new master cylinder in the vice? Can I install it and get all the air out the normal way with a person helping bleed the brakes out once it's installed on the car? Please let me know if it's possible to do install and then do the normal process of bleeding the brakes. Or do I need the bleed the air out of the master cylinder first? By the way I'm doing all this with another person so I'm hoping I can install everything and then do the normal bleeding process.
You must bleed the master cylinder first. You will never get all the air out bleeding it only at the wheels. However with a hepler you can install the master cylinder, then before you hookup the brake tubing, connect the bleeder tubing exactly as I did in the vice. Then have your helper slowly pump the pedal as you watch the air bubbles disappear. Once that is done you can hookup the brake lines and bleed as normal.
Thanks Manny for your question. I did that job around May of 2019 and I don't still have the part numbers. However I think I can still help. If your master cylinder looks like mine in the video there are only 2 choices. I purchased the first one that was incorrect on eBay. It was for a car with 4 wheel disc brakes and had 10 mm ports. The correct one for the car I was working on was for a car with rear drum brakes and had 12 mm ports. When you place the order make sure the vendor knows if you have 4 wheel discs or rear drums and you should get the correct one. Wish I could be of more help. Thanks for watching my channel.
I'm trying to replace break power booster. But from driver seat, very hard to get to those 4 bolts. How do I remove the plastic cover panel under the steering wheel? I found 2 screw on left and right bottom and removed those. And used a flat screw drive try to ply open the plastic cover from top. But doesn't work. I can not find any youtube about this problem.
I would like to help but i have never attempted that job on a Corolla. I no longer have access to the car so i cannot investigate the issue you are experiencing.
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks for replying! Luckly I solved that problem. But I have a new problem. There are 4 bolts holding the break padel. I took out 3 bolts. But the last bolt is in a strange place that my normal rachet can not reach it. Do I need that electric power impact drill/rachet with a curved head to unscrew that bolt? I saw someone use it on a youtube video
@@kimballwang137 Quite possibly, this is what you may need. www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiampHKmrf5AhWHzcgKHZ6iAQcYABANGgJxdQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESa-D2Umnuxb0Vf7_jpxu7V9I8BQIXgLjMjeOFPirJBePIqIkD4QeCrOsTCqiM80VLNnHN6uB3V3XmHbFMgToTMxEt4PZRkzdbtE280DWCxu6JCvvxLsiVcSD9NlanT5AxWbOZBEfVQ_EO_X2Y&sig=AOD64_3FTUs_KChKemBOV9rIajZdY16LwQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwivkIjKmrf5AhUPhIkEHV-XBasQ9aACKAB6BAgCECI&adurl=
Thanks for your observation. I am always trying to improve. Could you explain a in a little more detail? It would be greatly appreciated, Thanks for watching my channel
Very helpful keep it up , watching from mongolia
Thanks for watching and thanks for the kind words. I am in Massachusetts USA. It is fun to hear from the other side of the globe.
Wish I would’ve seen this before I ordered mine… did not know there was a difference 😭 I had removed mine and when I went to install the “new” one I noticed right away
I thought I had done everything right. I checked the plate on the door to see where the car was manufactured. It indicated the car was manufactured in Japan, so I ordered the part accordingly. The correct part that I received on, as I recall my 3rd try was the same as the cars that were manufactured in Canada.
Thank you Richard, super helpful!
Sorry I did not reply sooner as somehow my notifications got accidently turned off. I thought no one was watching my channel anymore until I just figured it out. Thanks, I always hate working on Toyotas because they are manufactured in so many different locations around the world. Each location in many instances use different parts on the same model. As you may have noticed in the video it took me three orders to get the correct master cylinder.
@@richardspaulding5035 Well, you clarified it for me and I got the right part! Thanks!
@@michaelsalsaa4832 Thanks, by all means don't be a stranger.
Awesome video. I'm gonna tackle this on my 2010 Corolla. Did you have any issues after bleeding considering these cars are ABS? Did you just use the usual bleed techniques found on UA-cam?
Thanks for the question Brujo; I just used the normal 2 man bleeding procedure. I now own a power bleeder but at that time I did not have one yet. The biggest problem I had was getting the correct master cylinder. I suggest you remove the old cylinder first and take it with you to the parts store so they can match it up. Thanks for watching my channel.
I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla. In mine I am replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders. Engine is out of the bay; to do this I had to take off the master cylinder but I did so attached to the booster; I still have old break fluid on the reservoir as I plugged the lines and holes and sat the assembly level while doing the other job; the question is, if I do not empty the brake master cylinder and since I am not replacing it, not even disconnecting it from the booster, I do not need to do the bench bleed right? after the car is back together plan is to replace fluid via air compressed vacuum. I have been told to install both clutch master and slave dry as the system has to be bleed out of air with the vacuum kit does very well; while i would like and would not mind to just bench bleed the master like you show here I think if I am not replacing it this is not needed as the reservoir is not empty so the piston chamber has fluid on it. Nice for the master cylinder to come with the gauge; there is a tool sold by Baer BrakeSystems; Push Rod Depth Gauge, part# 6801279 that is helpful and recommended to have to properly adjust the push rods on both master cylinder and booster when replacing; looks like a "H" with short ends and long ends and a rod that secures by a screw; the price is $59.00; I got mine and they shipped fast had it in 2 days time but i will not be needing it at this time as I am not replacing the master cylinder but got it just in case; seems that after all I did not even need to have it but it is one of those things that you say for the price; why not? Great tutorial by the way. Thanks for sharing.
You sound a lot like me, sometimes I must have a tool, I do not have an immediate need for it and may never use it but I still must have it. if you are not replacing the master cylinder then I see no need to bench bleed it. Enjoyed reading about your project, keep in touch
Do I have to do the process with the new master cylinder in the vice? Can I install it and get all the air out the normal way with a person helping bleed the brakes out once it's installed on the car? Please let me know if it's possible to do install and then do the normal process of bleeding the brakes. Or do I need the bleed the air out of the master cylinder first? By the way I'm doing all this with another person so I'm hoping I can install everything and then do the normal bleeding process.
You must bleed the master cylinder first. You will never get all the air out bleeding it only at the wheels. However with a hepler you can install the master cylinder, then before you hookup the brake tubing, connect the bleeder tubing exactly as I did in the vice. Then have your helper slowly pump the pedal as you watch the air bubbles disappear. Once that is done you can hookup the brake lines and bleed as normal.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching the video. I hope you found it helpful. By all means if you are doing this job yourself let me know how it goes.
Hey Richard, can you please where did you order yours and model number of the master cylinder? I have a 2009 matrix. Thank you!
Thanks Manny for your question. I did that job around May of 2019 and I don't still have the part numbers. However I think I can still help. If your master cylinder looks like mine in the video there are only 2 choices. I purchased the first one that was incorrect on eBay. It was for a car with 4 wheel disc brakes and had 10 mm ports. The correct one for the car I was working on was for a car with rear drum brakes and had 12 mm ports. When you place the order make sure the vendor knows if you have 4 wheel discs or rear drums and you should get the correct one. Wish I could be of more help. Thanks for watching my channel.
I'm trying to replace break power booster. But from driver seat, very hard to get to those 4 bolts. How do I remove the plastic cover panel under the steering wheel? I found 2 screw on left and right bottom and removed those. And used a flat screw drive try to ply open the plastic cover from top. But doesn't work. I can not find any youtube about this problem.
I would like to help but i have never attempted that job on a Corolla. I no longer have access to the car so i cannot investigate the issue you are experiencing.
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks for replying! Luckly I solved that problem. But I have a new problem. There are 4 bolts holding the break padel. I took out 3 bolts. But the last bolt is in a strange place that my normal rachet can not reach it. Do I need that electric power impact drill/rachet with a curved head to unscrew that bolt? I saw someone use it on a youtube video
@@richardspaulding5035 Is Universal joint or Swivel what I need for those hard to get places?
@@kimballwang137 Quite possibly, this is what you may need. www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiampHKmrf5AhWHzcgKHZ6iAQcYABANGgJxdQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESa-D2Umnuxb0Vf7_jpxu7V9I8BQIXgLjMjeOFPirJBePIqIkD4QeCrOsTCqiM80VLNnHN6uB3V3XmHbFMgToTMxEt4PZRkzdbtE280DWCxu6JCvvxLsiVcSD9NlanT5AxWbOZBEfVQ_EO_X2Y&sig=AOD64_3FTUs_KChKemBOV9rIajZdY16LwQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwivkIjKmrf5AhUPhIkEHV-XBasQ9aACKAB6BAgCECI&adurl=
@@kimballwang137 Try a ratchetting wrench
I like the video 👍
Thanks for the thumbs up and thanks for watching
what model is this corolla?
It was the base model.
@@richardspaulding5035 I might do mine in the near future. Mine is a 2016 S, it has 65k miles. At what mileage did yours give out?
Too much cutting shit unnecessarily.
Thanks for your observation. I am always trying to improve. Could you explain a in a little more detail? It would be greatly appreciated, Thanks for watching my channel