Coat the Bearing Assembly with a film of Float Fluid, then slide the air sleeve up onto the main air seal. Inject 2cc of Float Fluid into the main air chamber before threading the air sleeve into the eyelet clockwise. Tighten to 45 in-lb (5.1 Nm) torque by hand. This is the correct procedure 👍🏻👍🏻
If you don't already have a log book on your set up then record your pressure as well as the dial settings. It makes it easier to get you back to where you were at.
Aren't you meant to add 5cc of oil in the air cannister before screwing it back up? and not leave the stantion dry for when compression hits and only smeared up?
This is definitely not the 100h service, you do not touch the oil damper nor change any seal This is a very basic cleaning that is useful every 40-50h if you ride a lot or in tough condition but it is not a replacement for a proper service every 100h where you change every seal and purge the damper. Depending on the shock you need specific tools to presurise the internal floating piston so it might be a good idea to let it be done by a bike shop
@@lukaszj86 if it doesn't leak air or oil you don't need to replace it, on my previous bike I never changed the seals but had them as spare in case I do, just cleaned it every few months and put more than 350h of ride time on it without a problem.
note the valve requires a Torx 10 to undo to change the seal or to snug it up, just remove the valve first then you can insert the Torx 10. the valve core can be repalced, and is a Schrader valve core, so you can use a valve core tool to snug it up or remove it if needed. I worked on a bike recently where the valve was loose, but the shock requires a full seal kitt repalcement, possibly damaged internals. I did not mess with it more.
Removing the air can will be the hardest part for most people. I've have yet to come across a shock where the air can is removed just by hand. I've always needed to use a vise and a strap wrench to remove the outer sleeve. It didn't matter what brand. Fox, Rockshox, Cane Creek.
Thanks a lot, would love a dropper post easy service also, just got a bike with one and I could not even remove it from the frame 😅 too afraid to screw something
Ahaha.. they're not a mythical beast lol However there are a lot of different designs and internals and so the service procedure will differ dramatically depending on manufacturer and design, with some being far easier/ simpler for the home mechanic to service. What make and model do you have?
Hi Nice video! Just a quick question. Can I use SRAM Butter to service my Fox X2 or do I really need to buy the Fox Fluid? Thanks! Nice content you guys make
For the pos. air chamber you are supposed to use 2cc of 20 wt. Gold according to the Fox webpage (at least for float X and float X2 2021+). For the new seals though SRAM butter or slick honey might be fine (as 1spiders1 said)
It freshens the shock. It is an interim service to keep the seals healthy and gives you a chance to look over everything, making sure it is in good condition.
The problem with the videos on your channel is that you. Guys always use high-end components and parts that 90% of bicycle riders and enthusiasts cannot afford. Please give more focus on entry level parts or parts from the last 10 years so everyone can enjoy. Thanks for the video.
@@Full_Throttle_no_BrakesYou did not share what's on your bike. The procedure is same on all the standard shocks even as far back as the Fox I had on my old 2003 Specialized Epic.
Have you ever tried to service your own suspension? If not, are you going to give it a try after watching this video? Let us know 👇
I serviced a rockshox recon, lyric and Öhlins coil 36, rockshox is incredibly easy to service Öhlins not so much
Coat the Bearing Assembly with a film of Float Fluid, then slide the air sleeve up onto the main air seal. Inject 2cc of Float Fluid into the main air chamber before threading the air sleeve into the eyelet clockwise. Tighten to 45 in-lb (5.1 Nm) torque by hand.
This is the correct procedure 👍🏻👍🏻
You forgot to show that you have to put new oil in the chamber.
Wait do you?
@@Vetefanasså yes, you should put the rest of the blue oil bag in the air chamber at 4:24
This is typical of gmbn , they not interested in making proper videos
@@1spiders1 Fully agreed. Its hard to find good channels and just when you thought you found a good channel, they serve you bullshit like this.
WAIT A MINUTE, you forgot to add the rest of the fox fluid in loool
She also said Fox recommends 5cc of float fluid, then she said Fox recommends no more than half a pillow pack of float fluid. I pillow pack is 5cc.
She's a strong indeeeepandant whaaman. lol
If you don't already have a log book on your set up then record your pressure as well as the dial settings. It makes it easier to get you back to where you were at.
I missed the step when and how to add the oil. Or was the lubrication of seals and shaft it?
All the parts with the "pillow pack".
Aren't you meant to add 5cc of oil in the air cannister before screwing it back up? and not leave the stantion dry for when compression hits and only smeared up?
This is definitely not the 100h service, you do not touch the oil damper nor change any seal
This is a very basic cleaning that is useful every 40-50h if you ride a lot or in tough condition but it is not a replacement for a proper service every 100h where you change every seal and purge the damper.
Depending on the shock you need specific tools to presurise the internal floating piston so it might be a good idea to let it be done by a bike shop
I agree with you, for me such a service does not make sense if all seals are not replaced
@@lukaszj86 if it doesn't leak air or oil you don't need to replace it, on my previous bike I never changed the seals but had them as spare in case I do, just cleaned it every few months and put more than 350h of ride time on it without a problem.
Agree, if the seals do not leak then there is absolutely no reason to change them.
note the valve requires a Torx 10 to undo to change the seal or to snug it up, just remove the valve first then you can insert the Torx 10.
the valve core can be repalced, and is a Schrader valve core, so you can use a valve core tool to snug it up or remove it if needed.
I worked on a bike recently where the valve was loose, but the shock requires a full seal kitt repalcement, possibly damaged internals. I did not mess with it more.
Rebound should be on SLOW when you do this.
That is even what Fox say on their site.
It is easier to put aircan back on.
Removing the air can will be the hardest part for most people. I've have yet to come across a shock where the air can is removed just by hand. I've always needed to use a vise and a strap wrench to remove the outer sleeve. It didn't matter what brand. Fox, Rockshox, Cane Creek.
good tip on airing up after the shock is mounted - can't remember if I've ever thought about that before, but it makes good sense
Please don’t use an Allen to hold your shock while you open the air can. Do use a vise with soft jaws.
I wouldn't recommend putting a big Allen key tho the eye to undo the shock you will end up doing damage to the eye sooner or later
Thanks a lot, would love a dropper post easy service also, just got a bike with one and I could not even remove it from the frame 😅 too afraid to screw something
Ahaha.. they're not a mythical beast lol
However there are a lot of different designs and internals and so the service procedure will differ dramatically depending on manufacturer and design, with some being far easier/ simpler for the home mechanic to service. What make and model do you have?
#GMBN Tech
What is the sealed hex- Screw with the "M" in 4:55 for?
Great video Anna, very informative with just a touch of ASMR content :)
Glad you found this one useful! Who doesn't love a bit of ASMR? 😉
hundred hour service is changing absolutely all the seals and dust wipers where is all this in the video what kind of bullshit video is this
You didn’t need to touch the damper to do an air can service.
You are supposed to replace the seals.
Just had a rocky decent disaster and popped the shock and the valve has broken off.- new shock time I think
i have a question how much is one of those shocks
Hi
Nice video! Just a quick question. Can I use SRAM Butter to service my Fox X2 or do I really need to buy the Fox Fluid? Thanks!
Nice content you guys make
You can use sram butter around the new seals when you replace them but you do need fox fluid for the rest
For the pos. air chamber you are supposed to use 2cc of 20 wt. Gold according to the Fox webpage (at least for float X and float X2 2021+). For the new seals though SRAM butter or slick honey might be fine (as 1spiders1 said)
indiipeendant whaman
rock shox zeb please
I would if I could but i cant
2:23 please don't do that! using an allen key with nothing protecting it will damage the inside where the bushes go
what does this even achieve? seems like you didn't really do much
It freshens the shock. It is an interim service to keep the seals healthy and gives you a chance to look over everything, making sure it is in good condition.
It’s preventative maintenance
@OLI170 summed it up perfectly. 👍
Never use an allen key to discharge the air..Use a pump.....!!
The problem with the videos on your channel is that you. Guys always use high-end components and parts that 90% of bicycle riders and enthusiasts cannot afford.
Please give more focus on entry level parts or parts from the last 10 years so everyone can enjoy.
Thanks for the video.
But the process is literally the same when it comes to servicing.. the only thing that changes with price really is the tools and fixtures used..
This would be the same procedure for an older or cheaper shock. Your complaints are invalid
@@Calispeedboi completely different design
@@Full_Throttle_no_BrakesYou did not share what's on your bike. The procedure is same on all the standard shocks even as far back as the Fox I had on my old 2003 Specialized Epic.
this is park tool my guy they have standards
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