I have some service tips for you about these two-valve setups. On the initial visit, the very first thing I check is the two-limit set in the back of the unit, near the HX tube. If that passes the test with my meter set on Low Z, then I look at the dual rollout assembly. If I don't have the voltage at the dual rollout, I check the molex connector that passes from the controls area into the burner area. The pins can get pushed out of position, or the female pins no longer grip the males. I carry replacement pins on my truck, and the release and crimping tools. At the igniter modules, I check the TH and Rollout input terminals for voltage using the low Z meter function, so that I know that enough current can make it though all of the various contacts to be seen by the module circuitry. Seeing the 24 volts when using the Low Z function means that none of the contacts have a high resistance, and have enough voltage under load to trigger the modules. After all of those checks, the modules must send power to the pilot operator in the gas valve, and gas must be released to the pilot tubing. You can check this with a manometer, but it is tight quarters. This is a high failure mode, where the pilot does not open. When I write up parts for a burner pull on these, everything gets replaced...any Blue Boxes there, the valves, the limits, the dual rollout, the igniter, flame sense, crossover, orifice...anything that was original. This is both a repair and deep maintenance, and helps ensure that there is NO callback. Those speed nuts get replaced with new hex nuts and star washers.
Those heat exchangers are such a pain to replace....especially up in the rust belt area....i remember working on these every winter in Buffalo....down here in Austin.....total 180° difference....not a ton of no heat calls...but we get enough. I get all the boiler calls, so i stay busy
I really appreciate your video, because it gave me alot of insight incase I ever have to (and I pray I don't, luckily in my area there's few york rtus) on how to do this. I'm sure you hate york as much as I do . Uff.
Great video and great knowledge you possess/ I appreciate how thorough your work is. I'm currently working on the same system but it's a single stage. I've assessed that the spark igniter and flame sensor are defected. I'm in Texas, Dallas to be exact, what would you say is a fair labor cost to replace those two components? And also do you charge diagnostic fees along with the labor cost?
Just a little tip. Those plug valves (gas cock) has a nut on the other side that you can loosen off a little bit to close the valve a lot easier. Obviously with it being outside it could of been seized up.
Brilliant video very good overview of service, top guy 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Love how you just toss shit around. I’m the same way. I’m more organized in chaos than following a plan
I have some service tips for you about these two-valve setups. On the initial visit, the very first thing I check is the two-limit set in the back of the unit, near the HX tube. If that passes the test with my meter set on Low Z, then I look at the dual rollout assembly. If I don't have the voltage at the dual rollout, I check the molex connector that passes from the controls area into the burner area. The pins can get pushed out of position, or the female pins no longer grip the males. I carry replacement pins on my truck, and the release and crimping tools. At the igniter modules, I check the TH and Rollout input terminals for voltage using the low Z meter function, so that I know that enough current can make it though all of the various contacts to be seen by the module circuitry. Seeing the 24 volts when using the Low Z function means that none of the contacts have a high resistance, and have enough voltage under load to trigger the modules. After all of those checks, the modules must send power to the pilot operator in the gas valve, and gas must be released to the pilot tubing. You can check this with a manometer, but it is tight quarters. This is a high failure mode, where the pilot does not open. When I write up parts for a burner pull on these, everything gets replaced...any Blue Boxes there, the valves, the limits, the dual rollout, the igniter, flame sense, crossover, orifice...anything that was original. This is both a repair and deep maintenance, and helps ensure that there is NO callback. Those speed nuts get replaced with new hex nuts and star washers.
I appreciate the tips, I'll definitely be adding this to my checklist.
Not sure how i haven't subbed yet. You put out great content. Looking forward to binge watch your channel. Happy HVACing 😁👍
Thanks for subbing
Nice vid Ryan !🔥💪🏼
Appreciate it!!
Nice work Ryan.
Thanks!
Good job Ryan
Appreciate it!
Great Video. Good Job and Nice Work. Thank you for sharing
Today is one of those days for me today
That sucks Jeff, thanks for watching
Nice job Ryan
Thanks Dan!
Like your bro. Keep emailing coming. So many people have no clue what us guys do in the world. 😊
Those heat exchangers are such a pain to replace....especially up in the rust belt area....i remember working on these every winter in Buffalo....down here in Austin.....total 180° difference....not a ton of no heat calls...but we get enough. I get all the boiler calls, so i stay busy
I’ve replaced a few myself, possibly the worst to replace! Thanks Jason
I liket good class 👍🏾
Good vid Ryan especially the attention to detail ... Thx Misfit
Thanks!
Amazing job buddy 👏
Thank you! Cheers!
I really appreciate your video, because it gave me alot of insight incase I ever have to (and I pray I don't, luckily in my area there's few york rtus) on how to do this. I'm sure you hate york as much as I do . Uff.
Thanks for watching!
Great video and great knowledge you possess/ I appreciate how thorough your work is. I'm currently working on the same system but it's a single stage. I've assessed that the spark igniter and flame sensor are defected. I'm in Texas, Dallas to be exact, what would you say is a fair labor cost to replace those two components? And also do you charge diagnostic fees along with the labor cost?
I forgot what size nuts you can use to replace those clips. Few guys have used nuts in place of those clips
I believe the same size nut used to mount condenser fan motors will work 🤔
11/32
#8-32 thread using a 11/32" size nut. Same as motor stud nut on many electrical motors.
Where did you get that thermal imaging camera?
TruTech tools .com
23 thumbs up
Thanks Steve!
So, more importantly, did you find the bit at home?
How many hours was this work quoted for?
I don’t remember, It took me about 2 hours
It’s usually a Friday that’s not my day
Just a little tip. Those plug valves (gas cock) has a nut on the other side that you can loosen off a little bit to close the valve a lot easier. Obviously with it being outside it could of been seized up.
Thanks for the tip!
I cringed a little only 5 seconds in when I saw that 2 stage yorkie and I knew in advance what you were going to do.
😂someone that knows☝️
Losing tools no doubt ruins my day
For sure! Thanks for watching
first. bahaha
🏆
that combustion blower is terrible
@@spymoocowgaming I wrote it up for replacement
Well i would say what you're working on is an piece of junk yard junk.
I would agree with you! Thanks for watching
Nice job Ryan
Thanks Steve