1911 Hammer/Sear Interaction
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- Here are the various jigs I mentioned in the video:
-Ed Brown Sear Jig
www.brownells.c...
-Power Custom Stoning Fixture (Series 1 and Series 2)
www.brownells.c...
-True Radius Sear Jig
shop.harrisonc...
As a mechanical engineer by trade, Jay, i have to compliment you on not only a thorough and comprehensive explanation of the the critical relationship between the sear and hammer interaction, but your excellent drawings and commentary should allow even the novice to have a much better understanding before they attempt any type of trigger job. I wish I had had this explanation before I destroyed three sears on the way to getting trigger pull on my 1911.....GREAT JOB
Thanks for the kind comment, Arthur. I destroy lots of stuff while learning, so you're not alone. :)
@@jayphilipwilliams yeah, but I don't have any excuse!....
Nice work - fascinating how such a complicated interaction can be simplified by an excellent explanation. Well done.
Very nice trigger work with rounded sear on my Coonan 357! Now it is an 3 lbs trigger. Thank you very much.
Best explanation I've seen so far!
Thanks for producing this vid!
This is an awesome video! You did a great job of explaining the relationship between the sear and the hammer. I really appreciate the fact that you explained that as the sear moves, it moves in an angle. You really made everything very clear. Great job!
Thank you for the simple drawings explaining + - sear angles. Not a bunch of other junk in the video to distract me. 👍
great video good information about hammer and sear interaction in one place.
Thank you for producing this video . As an aside I learned what the secondary (half cocked) hooks are for on the trigger. And I learned about the correct sear engagement angles. Thank you!
Jay, thanks for the drawings. They were much easier to understand than text or video. Can't wait for your next 1911 video!
This is the video! Greetings from Brazil!
Very excellent tutorial on this topic. Your drawings make very clear the relationship between the sear and the hammer hooks. Thanks for that.
Really solid clear to understand info on sear hammer hook engagement thanks so much :)
Fantastic video, sir. I enjoyed it immensely.
Best video on this subject ever. Thanks for your effort!
Very good explanation. Thank you
AWESOME VIDEO BROTHER
excellent mr.jay...
Nice job!
EXCELLENT EXCELLENT EXCELLENT VIDEO
Legend, thanks for the tips
Thanks for describing hammer and sear operation. The diagrams are great. My question is, isnt the sear nose width so short that the change of 1st angle and 2nd angle through its travel so small in difference that it'd be imperceptible? If the hooks were long and the nose were equally wide, I can see the importance of matching the sear nose shape to the arc that it travels, but that would result in a creepy trigger I would think.
Hi. I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
You said "...it'd be imperceptible." That's exactly why there shouldn't be any creep! Because we're talking about such tiny distances (the drawings are GROSSLY exaggerated-I probably should've pointed that out in the video). And the secondary angle helps with that, too. The secondary angle means that the sear has to move hardly any at all before the secondary angle is reached and it pops out from under the hammer. Having a curved surface on the sear nose simply prevents it from a) "wanting" to pop out from under the hammer hooks or b) having to lift the hammer out of the way, both bad things.
However, the curved sear nose shouldn't contribute to creep, assuming you have a good secondary angle and the hammer hooks aren't too long.
Great job.Thank you
I have never had any difficulty maintaining a positive rake on the sear/hammer notch while achieving trigger pulls down in the ounces range. By having zero rake, you have a accidental discharge waiting to happen.
@@stevengibbons3845 Yeah, and I know I'm not explaining this correctly, but I thought the sear tip was supposed to have two angles and NOT be rounded!
My HK45 has a positive sear angle. The hammer moves back quite a bit, but if I release it before the hammer falls, the hammer cams back to it's original position. The weight is about 5-5.25 pounds with creep, but it's very smooth and has a crisp break.
That's the behavior I would expect. No problem if you don't mind creep.
good work
Which is the better to have a solid hammer liberation to competition , because sometimes is smooth
Based on your videos, I got the courage to do 2 trigger jobs on my 1911s. I had to dip into the Kimber and the Colt several times to achieve the success I was satisfied with. It is a micro and blind world that is difficult to make progress on, except by trail and error. IMO, go slow, error on safety's side, and learn to shoot what you ever improvement you achieve. I did purchase a used Colt XSE that had had a Wilson Trigger job done, and it is light and crisp, but not much better then I managed to do with a Brownell jig, a flat stone and some fine sand paper.
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I've watched this video several times to understand the hammer hooks/sear action. Excellent. I know that the later episode with the True Radius jig, the final result is a 2# ??? trigger pull. Which for me (retired LEO) is way to light for my taste. If the sear nose is positive (not radius cut) will I get a 4# + trigger pull, which is more of my liking for a CCW piece?. It seems like the Brownells sear jig (a copy of the Ed Brown) would be more useful to me.
Hey, John. The True Radius PRO jig will give you the best quality trigger pull in combination with being safe. It doesn't HAVE to be only 2 pounds. I agree that that is very light, at least for my purposes. You can make it heavier by simply increasing how hard the triple spring is pushing forward on the trigger bow.
I thought a flat 90 degrees to a 45 break was the perfect sear
Be careful, folks
Great video. I’m preparing for my first home trigger job, and this helped put a lot of concepts together.
Regarding the Brown Sear Jig/Fixture, how does one properly position the set screw to get the correct angle?
I didn't touch it. I left it at its factory setting. However, adjusting it should change the angle of the sear nose, thus changing how easily the sear comes out from under the hammer hooks, as I show in this video.
However, I would recommend using the True Radius PRO sear jig rather than the Ed Brown jig. I have a video on that here:
ua-cam.com/video/bzLi7NErYmg/v-deo.html
Jay Philip Williams|||| Yeah, I’ve researched the TR Pro. It looks like the way to go, but I’m on a budget and it’s a big expense for a guy who may only do 2 or 3 trigger jobs in his lifetime.
@@jimm244 I totally understand, Jim. Let me say something else. I'm just a hobbyist, too, not a professional gunsmith. I would recommend you hop on over to forums.1911forum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=18 and ask this kind of question there (not that I mind trying to help). There are a few professional gunsmiths there and they'll definitely be able to answer any questions you may have.
I'm guessing, however, that the screw you asked about will simply help you adjust the primary sear angle between positive, neutral, and negative. I think you'd need to try it as is, put it in the gun and see if the sear pops out on its own, or lifts the hammer when you pull the trigger, or if it's neutral. Then, adjust it from there.
One other thing, I just read today that you really want more like .100" (or a little more) on the shim for the secondary angle. That will keep the sear nose from sinking too deep under the hammer hooks, thus requiring more effort to get the sear to pop out from behind the hammer hooks.
Nice video Jay!
I look forward to seeing your next video on using the True Radius jig and what you think about the results. Can you feel a difference in the trigger break with a radius on the sear?
Not sure I'll be able to feel a difference, but I'll let you know. Maybe a professional competitor could.
Why not use a 3000 grit sand belt and push into the rolling belt? It should give you the arc on the sear.
You need way more precision than you could get that way. A jig and a stone will give you that.
Is it possible to buy a sear and hammer already done, so that will make it easy for us shooters .” Drop in set”-
I believe most if not all of them would drop in and function fine. I would recommend calling Brownell's or Midway (or wherever you buy parts) and ask them, though. You'll usually get a better trigger if you do some work on it, but I don't think it's usually a requirement.
hey ,can someone here reccomend any engineering book on trigger mechanism , want to create one for a ug project i am working on !
.i am basically looking for kinematic /dynamic analysis between sear,trigger,and hammer . and how different geometries effect the break of the trigger mechanism .(i did see the video , but i am looking to quantify the design , that mean finding the ratio and numbers between geometries of the design of sear and hammer ).
I would ask on 1911Forum, or someplace like that: www.1911forum.com/forums/gunsmithing-troubleshooting.18/
Lets say if you fuck up and the sear fails to hold the hammer, the 2nd bigger notch on the hammer will still catch on to the sear on its way down and will not hit the firing pin correct? assuming the trigger isn't pulled.
That's correct. The triple spring will still be applying pressure to the sear, holding it against the hammer, and so it (the sear nose) will fall into that notch, stopping the hammer from striking the firing pin. Colloquially, it's called the "half-cock notch," although I don't believe that's the technical name for it, and I don't have my books handy.
@@jayphilipwilliams for some modern 1911, they also have a firing pin block. unless the trigger is pulled, the firing pin will not hit the cartridge even if they hammer happens to strike the firing pin. Good to know an 100 year old design 1911 has a lot of fail safe in place.
If your gun fits likebthebpictures it is time for a new gun