Visually my stock mil-spec trigger had machine marks and the pull measured 5.7 lbs on a digital trigger gauge. ...not bad actually. I placed 2000 grit paper on a smooth flat SS plate and made several flush passes to the sear and disconnector notch. Its easy to see if your truly flat by the witness marks on the black paper. It took less than one minute to dress those features and even with the stock springs, the trigger was smooth as a babies bottom and consistently measured 3.1 lbs.
i personally use ceramic that is so smooth and flat it takes a couple hours to do a mil spec trigger set up, but it comes out as smooth as a literal mirror with the absolute minimal of material removed.
Used 1500 grid paper and went around the sharp edges as well to remove the "scraping" effect. Without compromising the shape in any way, I found that I had an even better, smoother trigger pull.
Thanks for keeping us informed. I just got a chiapps PAC 9. Working on getting it set up. Thanks for letting us know what kind of scoped you us. I enjoy your videos they are very informative. Will be watching you more.
5 grit? Do you mean 500 grit? My Arkansas stone set (all 3 are Arkansas stones) is 600 grit (course), 1,000 grit (medium), and 2,500 grit (extra fine).
@rsh4599 No, don't do that on a trigger. You need a straight edge that is perfectly flat in all directions. This can only be achieved by using flat stones/diamond stones. If you use a buffing wheel, or anything soft, you will then round off the edges and that is the danger zone!
@rsh4599 Yes, this works.....I have done Q-tip with polish for years and it does an amazing job, you just have to make sure it's even across the surface.
why would you do the sandpaper after the stone? Isn't the sandpaper more abrasive then the stone? I'm wanting to do this and never done it before but it just seams backwards. Help me understand
Wait.. I threaded my lower to add in that overtravel stop with a bobbed hammer and light weight springs for a few years before it would follow on reset.... Can I buy that in NiB for cheaper than a cartridge drop in trigger?
Can you show how to do trigger polishing on the Hammerli Tac R1 please. I have installed the trigger spring kit but the trigger pull still feels heavy. Could you look into this please, would be much appreciated.
For better results, after the 400-500 grit sandpaper move to 1000-1500 grit sandpaper, followed by 2000 grit, followed by 3000 grit. There's no need to fill voids in the steel with polishing compound if you remove the voids properly. The polishing compound step is for beginners that don't know what they're doing, and it'll require regular maintenance as the compound wears off.
That's not how polishing compound works. Polishing compound is an abrasive, the same as sandpaper. It doesnt "fill" voids in metals, it removes the metal around a void/nick/scratch to bring the surface finish to a uniform state.
I know this is old, but I want to bump it anyway. Plain and simple, you dont know what you are talking about. Compound is not a filler, it is a liquid form abrasion "compound" that removes material by cutting or polishing the surface. There are varying gradient compounds just like there are grit sandpaper.
I've seen a million of this exact same type video, a few show trigger pull weights before and after. BUT NO ONE shows shot groups before or after! Why? cuz its all a Placebo and won't affect accuracy. Prove me wrong if you can?
It will only improve accuracy if you jerk the trigger. The real reason you want a lighter pull is to prevent your hand from pulling one way or the other..at a certain point in time you really don't want it to be super light either though. Especially in pistols. It's going on your belt after all
or when done correctly, if that's what you were aiming for 👌shall not be infringed. or say you're building your own non-registered firearm and are not bound by those "laws" which are of course unconstitutional anyways
@@KeterMalkuth I agree but people need to understand that it is perfectly legal and lawful to do so instead of believing what CNN says. It's perfectly legal and lawful to buy, sell, trade, manufacture or operate tactical nukes or dirty bombs for that matter. That is what the constitution says.
Visually my stock mil-spec trigger had machine marks and the pull measured 5.7 lbs on a digital trigger gauge. ...not bad actually. I placed 2000 grit paper on a smooth flat SS plate and made several flush passes to the sear and disconnector notch. Its easy to see if your truly flat by the witness marks on the black paper. It took less than one minute to dress those features and even with the stock springs, the trigger was smooth as a babies bottom and consistently measured 3.1 lbs.
i personally use ceramic that is so smooth and flat it takes a couple hours to do a mil spec trigger set up, but it comes out as smooth as a literal mirror with the absolute minimal of material removed.
Used 1500 grid paper and went around the sharp edges as well to remove the "scraping" effect. Without compromising the shape in any way, I found that I had an even better, smoother trigger pull.
O was wondering about that. I have 1000 grit up to 20000 grit. Can't I use those to get a noticeably better finish without removing alot of material
Thanks for keeping us informed. I just got a chiapps PAC 9. Working on getting it set up. Thanks for letting us know what kind of scoped you us. I enjoy your videos they are very informative. Will be watching you more.
5 grit? Do you mean 500 grit? My Arkansas stone set (all 3 are Arkansas stones) is 600 grit (course), 1,000 grit (medium), and 2,500 grit (extra fine).
He said, "Fine grit" Not "Five grit." I thought the same thing and was like WTF?!? Lol.
Just wondering why would you use the stone first, before the 400 grit paper?
The stone is more abrasive and removes burrs more quickly before polishing.
A buffing wheel is the wrong tool for this. You can easily see how much it has rounded of the edge at 4:02
@rsh4599 No, don't do that on a trigger. You need a straight edge that is perfectly flat in all directions. This can only be achieved by using flat stones/diamond stones. If you use a buffing wheel, or anything soft, you will then round off the edges and that is the danger zone!
@rsh4599 Yes, this works.....I have done Q-tip with polish for years and it does an amazing job, you just have to make sure it's even across the surface.
why would you do the sandpaper after the stone? Isn't the sandpaper more abrasive then the stone? I'm wanting to do this and never done it before but it just seams backwards. Help me understand
Bobby Diminnie my guess would be that it removes the burr from the previous step.
I would F this up for sure.
If you don't have a buffing wheel can you use a dremmal tool?
yes you can
That's what I use and it works great.
i agree just use a 1000 grit or hight stone then polish...
Are JP triggers cut out o A2 tool steel and Rockwell hardened ?
What is a sear prep grease and where can I get it?
Wait.. I threaded my lower to add in that overtravel stop with a bobbed hammer and light weight springs for a few years before it would follow on reset.... Can I buy that in NiB for cheaper than a cartridge drop in trigger?
Can you show how to do trigger polishing on the Hammerli Tac R1 please. I have installed the trigger spring kit but the
trigger pull still feels heavy. Could you look into this please, would be much appreciated.
For better results, after the 400-500 grit sandpaper move to 1000-1500 grit sandpaper, followed by 2000 grit, followed by 3000 grit. There's no need to fill voids in the steel with polishing compound if you remove the voids properly. The polishing compound step is for beginners that don't know what they're doing, and it'll require regular maintenance as the compound wears off.
That's not how polishing compound works.
Polishing compound is an abrasive, the same as sandpaper. It doesnt "fill" voids in metals, it removes the metal around a void/nick/scratch to bring the surface finish to a uniform state.
I know this is old, but I want to bump it anyway. Plain and simple, you dont know what you are talking about. Compound is not a filler, it is a liquid form abrasion "compound" that removes material by cutting or polishing the surface. There are varying gradient compounds just like there are grit sandpaper.
I've seen a million of this exact same type video, a few show trigger pull weights before and after. BUT NO ONE shows shot groups before or after! Why? cuz its all a Placebo and won't affect accuracy. Prove me wrong if you can?
It will only improve accuracy if you jerk the trigger. The real reason you want a lighter pull is to prevent your hand from pulling one way or the other..at a certain point in time you really don't want it to be super light either though. Especially in pistols. It's going on your belt after all
I used some clp and all the red started bleeding off my spring, is that necessarily a bad thing?
no...
nice video and great info.
My teeth started to hurt when i saw that pick.
Mine too and I didnt realize that's what it was until I read this lol
It didn't bother me... thank GOD I'm 43yrs old and I've NEVER once had a cavity (in my mouth...lol) or a filling. I'm truly blessed.
Thank you!!!
Thanks
It is okay to watch this . I never touch it all. I would rather pay some professional gunsmith ,gunshop
Done incorrectly and you have a burst fire rifle.
or when done correctly, if that's what you were aiming for 👌shall not be infringed. or say you're building your own non-registered firearm and are not bound by those "laws" which are of course unconstitutional anyways
@@KeterMalkuth I agree but people need to understand that it is perfectly legal and lawful to do so instead of believing what CNN says. It's perfectly legal and lawful to buy, sell, trade, manufacture or operate tactical nukes or dirty bombs for that matter. That is what the constitution says.
@@jhanks2012 Nut-job