If you enjoyed the video, please give it a thumbs up 👍. Your support helps me create more content and is greatly appreciated . If you have any questions , comments , or suggestions for future videos, feel free to leave them below. I love hearing from you and look forward to your feedback !
Great videography. Great explanations. Great length. I can see what needs to be seen, with good lighting and in focus. You give tips and hints, but your video isn't longer than the time it takes to do the actual process. I wish every car mechanic video was like this!
This is one of the best videos for a Corolla oil change with cartridge oil filter. Using the correct tools and torque specs. So many others use an incorrect oil filter cap wrench that won't work without removing the retaining clip next to the filter cap. Great job. Only suggestion would be to not use a screwdriver or pick to remove the old o-ring per the instructions that come with the OEM oil filter I guess they think it could damage the plastic filter cap over time...?
I've seen some videos that say to let engine cool down for 4 hours so it doesn't burn you. You say to warm up the engine. Which is it? What am I missing here?
in the video you tightened the nut to 27 ft/lbs and the adapter wrench to 18 ft/lbs but I saw the range of the torque wrench from the link you left in the description and it is 30-150 ft/lbs, I want to buy it but I have that doubt, thanks great video
I don't know why they say that, and the manual too. I just tested it with a click-type torque wrench and 150in lbs (12.5 ft lbs), and it clicks when the electronic adapter reaches right around 150-160. So it seems quite accurate even below 30. It starts at 0, so you could even set it to 10 ft lbs. Very strange they would say it starts at 30, but it does allow setting to anywhere from 0 to 150 ft lbs. Thanks for the question!
Sure, See my Jacking up video description there are some links there: ua-cam.com/video/gkP_y6Hcclw/v-deo.html The heavy duty jack is a bit expensive but it has some of the best reviews and it's a 3ton which will work on heavier cars too, in case you have another heavier car. There's also a link to the 1.5ton like I'm using, it's a much lighter weight jack, I like it because it's easy to carry around. Be careful if you're raising it on a hot asphalt driveway the jack could dig into the asphalt,.. www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/tricks-to-keep-jack-and-jack-stands-from-sinking-in-asphalt.337546/
Around 3:10, there is a metal piece on the bottom left, near where the filter housing goes. In your case, there was no interference when you moved the wrench. However, in my case, that small metal piece got stuck on the wrench. That small metal piece eventually came off. Does it serve any purpose?
You should be able to push it back in.. the purpose is supposedly to prevent the plastic cap from unscrewing itself due to vibration for example..The manual says "NOTICE: Do not remove the oil filter bracket clip when removing the oil filter cap assembly."
Sure, they can do it in even less than 8 minutes.. it takes about 1 minute to drain out, 2 minutes to remove and replace the filter, and 1 more minute to refill it.. provided all the tools and everything is ready. Oil change places that do this all the time are very fast.
The difference in thickness is much more important than what's coated. When it's warm, it will let go and drain down, but when it's cold it sticks like maple syrup, especially in cold temperatures. Also, a little coating may be a good idea, for the next restart to help lubricate. A lot of engine wear happens in the first few seconds after the oil change. The filter is empty, so it takes a second or two until it fills, and oil flows to the engine.
My corolla after every filter change is impossible to release. I have the key but it will not release. When I first purchased the car I was able to change as the years went by the filter gets harder and harder to remove. I gave up on the last one and I was forced to go to the dealer. This year I am making another attempt and it seems the filter cap is welded on. Any reason why yours was so easy to release?
I torqued it when I put it back on... If it's tightened really hard back on, then it will be hard to remove later, that's for sure. Perhaps a new cap may help?? It's plastic, so maybe it has deformed a bit over time. That's the only possibility I can think of.. the other part is metal, so it will not change shape, and the o-ring is changed every time.
I read that it is important to replace brake fluid every 30k miles due to moisture contamination. My 2014 Corolla has 75k miles, I'm long overdue for it but not sure what the process looks like. Have you done this on your Corolla?
I'm at 75k miles and I did it once. It should be done, and yes moisture will contaminate it, and then it will rust from the inside out. Moisture can rust the caliper bores on the inside, and even the brake lines. I filmed it and I have the video somewhere, but playing with the bleeder screws can cause issues.. #1 they can be rusted and they'll break off. #2 people overtighten, then they'll break off next time #3 if by some chance they're not tightened properly, the car won't have any brakes! .. They DO have a torque rating, however, it's so small, and I don't really trust my torque adapter for it, because it's that small.. So I guess I could do a video for it, using a properly rated torque wrench, that can measure that low. That is the basic part of bleeding really, a helper is also needed to push the pedal down. I don't like the "vacuum bleeder" tools, I tried and it doesn't work well, because the bleeder screw allows air in through the threads, and makes it seem like there's air coming from the line even though it's not.
That's actually not too bad really, they put so much salt in the winter here that all cars rust. I've started trying to spray undercoating on some steel components to slow it down.. I should've done it when it was new, or gave it a second coat of paint. The paint they use on steel is almost useless, it just rusts right through.
Very useful video :) I have a small problem, if you can help me I would appreciate: I have an Corolla from 2017, 1.6, valemantic, 132hp, 45.300 km on ODO. I bought this car second hand, from Germany. Recently I've made oil change - 5w-30 they put me. They said that this is the correct oil viscosity for car age and km on ODO I've seen that the owner manual preferred is 0w-20. I can used 5w-30, but after that to switch back to 0w-20. I'm living in Romania. Temepratures during the winter can go to -10 Celsius, to +35 Celsius in the summer Theoretically, they put correct oil for these conditions, but owner manual is recommending something else. Questions and concerns: They put the correct oil after all giving weather conditions? If I have right now 5w-30 it will affect my car? Should I switch back to the 0w-20 at the next oil change?
Just make sure the oil is synthetic!! There is a big debate if 5W-30 is OK or not. I just use the 0W-20 because that's what recommended. I wouldn't worry about problems from using 5W-30 it should be fine. 0W-20 helps with fuel economy.
@@bratarilanturi280 Here are some benefits of 0W-20: www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/68847-why-0w-20-synthetic-oil-explanation-inside.html#:~:text=So%20why%20would%20you%20use,high%20as%20205%20degrees%20Celsius. "0W-20 oil provides the best lubrication under all temperature conditions, reduces engine combustion chamber deposits, reduces vehicle emissions and improves fuel economy. That’s a lot to ask of engine oil, but 0W-20 synthetic is up to the task." Also keep in mind that 0W-20 is always synthetic.
I used to unscrew oil filter bare hands with the 2005 ones. I'm not sure I'll be able to do it with these kind of filters... the worst thing is I'll have to do a short bike trip to canadian tire to get the tool
@@CleverFix LOL I did 4 trips to canadian tire cause first of all the guy didn't know what I was talking about, and then I got the wrong size adapters. I finally ended up getting a random filter plier that I'm not sure it's supposed to be used on these kind of filters, but it works... But it just seems like they're trying to make it more difficult to change simple things so people end up going to a garage or the toyota dealer. No dipstick for the transmission, brake fluid reservoir not easily accessible.... But anyways, thanx for your response.
@@Hide_and_Tweak Ah, I was gonna give you an amazon link, but I know Canadian Tire has a good price because I've seen it there so I thought you'd find it easily. I'm quite sure this is it: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-toyota-lexus-cap-wrench-6-cut-64-mm-0283579p.html You can ask for the Item # and they should locate it for you in the store. As for the brake fluid, there's a plastic lid on top of the reservoir(above it) to get to it, just in case you didn't figure that out, I show it in my Brake Pad Change video. Once the lid is off you can access the reservoir very easily.
@@CleverFix oh that's weird I tried the 64 mm and it was too small, and I found somewhere on internet it needs 64.5 mm. But seriously with the pliers it works fine.
@@Hide_and_Tweak It is bigger than 64, I checked mine it's 64.8mm on the inside. Well as long as it doesn't get damaged.. Sometimes it gets super tight on me, and even with the tool I have to put some force into it.
@@imtiyazbaig6439 VVTI which is written on the engine, means the engine has Variable Valve Timing with Intelligence , it has nothing to do with the transmission type. The car is a 2014 Corolla with CVT Transmission. This video shows how to change the engine oil, not transmission oil.
@@imtiyazbaig6439 Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/oR7N6tahsGs/v-deo.html it shows you how to identify if you have a CVT or not at the beginning.
This is in the manual "NOTICE: Do not remove the oil filter bracket clip when removing the oil filter cap assembly." Normally it should back off on it's own while removing / installing the cap, but I'm guessing some people have theirs bent. It's not a very good system in my opinion.
The filter cap wrench actually presses back against this clip so as to allow movement, so if you're having trouble, you may not be using a filter cap wrench that is same as the Toyota OEM one.
@@CleverFix interesting, I always have removed this clip, it takes 5 seconds and gives you total freedom to put filter tool over filter cap, remove filter tool, and to turn ratchet undoing or tightening..everyone criticizes this cartridge and cap system, but providing you use the proper filter tool i have never had one jammed on, the normal type of screw on filter however, i have had many absolutely so tight and unmovable ive had to pierce the filter with a hammer and screwdriver to remove it, absolute nightmare!!
If you enjoyed the video, please give it a thumbs up 👍. Your support helps me create more content and is greatly appreciated . If you have any questions , comments , or suggestions for future videos, feel free to leave them below. I love hearing from you and look forward to your feedback !
Great videography. Great explanations. Great length. I can see what needs to be seen, with good lighting and in focus. You give tips and hints, but your video isn't longer than the time it takes to do the actual process. I wish every car mechanic video was like this!
This is one of the best videos for a Corolla oil change with cartridge oil filter. Using the correct tools and torque specs. So many others use an incorrect oil filter cap wrench that won't work without removing the retaining clip next to the filter cap. Great job.
Only suggestion would be to not use a screwdriver or pick to remove the old o-ring per the instructions that come with the OEM oil filter I guess they think it could damage the plastic filter cap over time...?
Thanks!
Thanks for showing us a close-up of where to put the o-ring! Most of the other videos don't do that.
No problem, glad it helped !
Thank you ! Straight to the point. Not too fast.
I love your channel. I'm so glad we have the same car, you're very informative!
Awesome! Thank you!
The video de i was looking for, now i can do oil changes by my own 👍🏻😎✨
Thanks for watching!
Very straight forward video. Thank you
Great video. Some videos don’t show how to take out filter. 👍
Thanks ! Glad it helped!
Brilliant video!!! Thanks.Michael Einkamerer.
I've seen some videos that say to let engine cool down for 4 hours so it doesn't burn you. You say to warm up the engine. Which is it? What am I missing here?
Straight to it.
in the video you tightened the nut to 27 ft/lbs and the adapter wrench to 18 ft/lbs but I saw the range of the torque wrench from the link you left in the description and it is 30-150 ft/lbs, I want to buy it but I have that doubt, thanks great video
I don't know why they say that, and the manual too. I just tested it with a click-type torque wrench and 150in lbs (12.5 ft lbs), and it clicks when the electronic adapter reaches right around 150-160. So it seems quite accurate even below 30. It starts at 0, so you could even set it to 10 ft lbs. Very strange they would say it starts at 30, but it does allow setting to anywhere from 0 to 150 ft lbs. Thanks for the question!
can you tell me more about the jack and stand you used in this video? I'm not sure which one to buy. thanks
Sure, See my Jacking up video description there are some links there: ua-cam.com/video/gkP_y6Hcclw/v-deo.html The heavy duty jack is a bit expensive but it has some of the best reviews and it's a 3ton which will work on heavier cars too, in case you have another heavier car. There's also a link to the 1.5ton like I'm using, it's a much lighter weight jack, I like it because it's easy to carry around. Be careful if you're raising it on a hot asphalt driveway the jack could dig into the asphalt,..
www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/tricks-to-keep-jack-and-jack-stands-from-sinking-in-asphalt.337546/
Around 3:10, there is a metal piece on the bottom left, near where the filter housing goes. In your case, there was no interference when you moved the wrench. However, in my case, that small metal piece got stuck on the wrench. That small metal piece eventually came off. Does it serve any purpose?
You should be able to push it back in.. the purpose is supposedly to prevent the plastic cap from unscrewing itself due to vibration for example..The manual says "NOTICE:
Do not remove the oil filter bracket clip when removing the oil filter cap assembly."
I just had my oil changed on my 2014 Toyota Corolla and it took them less than 8 minutes. Is that enough time for a standard oil change?
yes
8 minutes from when you pulled off the plug or 8 from when you started jacking up the car😭
Sure, they can do it in even less than 8 minutes.. it takes about 1 minute to drain out, 2 minutes to remove and replace the filter, and 1 more minute to refill it.. provided all the tools and everything is ready. Oil change places that do this all the time are very fast.
Great video, what is the torque adapter you are using ?
Check out the video description, there's a link to it there.
Running the engine to warm oil makes it flow more easily, but doesn’t it recoat all of the engine components with the oil you want to replace?
The difference in thickness is much more important than what's coated. When it's warm, it will let go and drain down, but when it's cold it sticks like maple syrup, especially in cold temperatures. Also, a little coating may be a good idea, for the next restart to help lubricate. A lot of engine wear happens in the first few seconds after the oil change. The filter is empty, so it takes a second or two until it fills, and oil flows to the engine.
Can i use all of these on a 2011 corolla?
Hi, how can I get the torque wrench that you are using. Thanks again for the video.
Hi, I added a link to it in the video description.
great video!!!
Thanks, glad you liked it.
Thank you!!
great video
Thanks
My corolla after every filter change is impossible to release. I have the key but it will not release. When I first purchased the car I was able to change as the years went by the filter gets harder and harder to remove. I gave up on the last one and I was forced to go to the dealer. This year I am making another attempt and it seems the filter cap is welded on. Any reason why yours was so easy to release?
I torqued it when I put it back on... If it's tightened really hard back on, then it will be hard to remove later, that's for sure. Perhaps a new cap may help?? It's plastic, so maybe it has deformed a bit over time. That's the only possibility I can think of.. the other part is metal, so it will not change shape, and the o-ring is changed every time.
@@CleverFix I gave it one more try. I used a breaker bar. And ot turned a tiny bit. Then I used my ratchet to release the cap.
@@cameranmanner4701 Nice, glad it worked.
I read that it is important to replace brake fluid every 30k miles due to moisture contamination. My 2014 Corolla has 75k miles, I'm long overdue for it but not sure what the process looks like. Have you done this on your Corolla?
if you open all the bleeder screws and the cap under the hoodyou can drain it by yourself, just be sure to keep the fluid reservoir full.
I've never changed the brake fluid in any of my vehicles and they lasted over 200k miles with no issues
I'm at 75k miles and I did it once. It should be done, and yes moisture will contaminate it, and then it will rust from the inside out. Moisture can rust the caliper bores on the inside, and even the brake lines. I filmed it and I have the video somewhere, but playing with the bleeder screws can cause issues.. #1 they can be rusted and they'll break off. #2 people overtighten, then they'll break off next time #3 if by some chance they're not tightened properly, the car won't have any brakes! .. They DO have a torque rating, however, it's so small, and I don't really trust my torque adapter for it, because it's that small.. So I guess I could do a video for it, using a properly rated torque wrench, that can measure that low.
That is the basic part of bleeding really, a helper is also needed to push the pedal down. I don't like the "vacuum bleeder" tools, I tried and it doesn't work well, because the bleeder screw allows air in through the threads, and makes it seem like there's air coming from the line even though it's not.
That car is not old and still there is decent rust below the car.
Toyota cars are great but shame they still like to rust a lot.
That's actually not too bad really, they put so much salt in the winter here that all cars rust. I've started trying to spray undercoating on some steel components to slow it down.. I should've done it when it was new, or gave it a second coat of paint. The paint they use on steel is almost useless, it just rusts right through.
What side of the crush washer goes next to pan?
doesnt matter both sides have the blue sealer on it. if you have the oem one.
Very useful video :)
I have a small problem, if you can help me I would appreciate:
I have an Corolla from 2017, 1.6, valemantic, 132hp, 45.300 km on ODO. I bought this car second hand, from Germany.
Recently I've made oil change - 5w-30 they put me. They said that this is the correct oil viscosity for car age and km on ODO
I've seen that the owner manual preferred is 0w-20. I can used 5w-30, but after that to switch back to 0w-20.
I'm living in Romania. Temepratures during the winter can go to -10 Celsius, to +35 Celsius in the summer
Theoretically, they put correct oil for these conditions, but owner manual is recommending something else.
Questions and concerns:
They put the correct oil after all giving weather conditions?
If I have right now 5w-30 it will affect my car?
Should I switch back to the 0w-20 at the next oil change?
Just make sure the oil is synthetic!! There is a big debate if 5W-30 is OK or not. I just use the 0W-20 because that's what recommended. I wouldn't worry about problems from using 5W-30 it should be fine. 0W-20 helps with fuel economy.
I'm in Canada by the way, -30C to +30C and 0W-20 is ok!
@@CleverFix
Thank you for details. I really appreciate it
@@bratarilanturi280 Here are some benefits of 0W-20: www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/68847-why-0w-20-synthetic-oil-explanation-inside.html#:~:text=So%20why%20would%20you%20use,high%20as%20205%20degrees%20Celsius. "0W-20 oil provides the best lubrication under all temperature conditions, reduces engine combustion chamber deposits, reduces vehicle emissions and improves fuel economy. That’s a lot to ask of engine oil, but 0W-20 synthetic is up to the task."
Also keep in mind that 0W-20 is always synthetic.
@@CleverFix
Thank you again for details provided
I used to unscrew oil filter bare hands with the 2005 ones. I'm not sure I'll be able to do it with these kind of filters... the worst thing is I'll have to do a short bike trip to canadian tire to get the tool
I wouldn't bother trying, it's always tight, even if you have the proper tool. Get the tool first, it's a must.
@@CleverFix LOL I did 4 trips to canadian tire cause first of all the guy didn't know what I was talking about, and then I got the wrong size adapters. I finally ended up getting a random filter plier that I'm not sure it's supposed to be used on these kind of filters, but it works... But it just seems like they're trying to make it more difficult to change simple things so people end up going to a garage or the toyota dealer. No dipstick for the transmission, brake fluid reservoir not easily accessible.... But anyways, thanx for your response.
@@Hide_and_Tweak Ah, I was gonna give you an amazon link, but I know Canadian Tire has a good price because I've seen it there so I thought you'd find it easily. I'm quite sure this is it: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-toyota-lexus-cap-wrench-6-cut-64-mm-0283579p.html You can ask for the Item # and they should locate it for you in the store. As for the brake fluid, there's a plastic lid on top of the reservoir(above it) to get to it, just in case you didn't figure that out, I show it in my Brake Pad Change video. Once the lid is off you can access the reservoir very easily.
@@CleverFix oh that's weird I tried the 64 mm and it was too small, and I found somewhere on internet it needs 64.5 mm. But seriously with the pliers it works fine.
@@Hide_and_Tweak It is bigger than 64, I checked mine it's 64.8mm on the inside. Well as long as it doesn't get damaged.. Sometimes it gets super tight on me, and even with the tool I have to put some force into it.
That was great
Thanks!
thanx
You're welcome!
Is this a cvt transmission??
Yes
@@CleverFix but it says vvti on engine cover I have same car and I'm confused that's why asking, Thanks for your response 😊
@@imtiyazbaig6439 VVTI which is written on the engine, means the engine has Variable Valve Timing with Intelligence , it has nothing to do with the transmission type. The car is a 2014 Corolla with CVT Transmission. This video shows how to change the engine oil, not transmission oil.
@@imtiyazbaig6439 Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/oR7N6tahsGs/v-deo.html it shows you how to identify if you have a CVT or not at the beginning.
wrong, you didnt remove the locking clip bottom left hand side of the filter first!!
This is in the manual "NOTICE:
Do not remove the oil filter bracket clip when removing the oil filter cap assembly." Normally it should back off on it's own while removing / installing the cap, but I'm guessing some people have theirs bent. It's not a very good system in my opinion.
The filter cap wrench actually presses back against this clip so as to allow movement, so if you're having trouble, you may not be using a filter cap wrench that is same as the Toyota OEM one.
@@CleverFix interesting, I always have removed this clip, it takes 5 seconds and gives you total freedom to put filter tool over filter cap, remove filter tool, and to turn ratchet undoing or tightening..everyone criticizes this cartridge and cap system, but providing you use the proper filter tool i have never had one jammed on, the normal type of screw on filter however, i have had many absolutely so tight and unmovable ive had to pierce the filter with a hammer and screwdriver to remove it, absolute nightmare!!