Machining and Installing the Leveling Feet for the Cincinnati Horizontal Mill
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- My last video, I made a riser base for the Cincinnati 2ML Horizontal Milling Machine. I had a lot of comments about how I needed pads under the jacking screws. The plan was to make the pads, but the current workload didn't allow me to take the time.
For almost 2 weeks, the Cincinnati 2ML ran nearly continuously squaring up stock. I completed that big order and took a few hours to make the parts and video. So here it is in all of its glory. Leveling pads of my own design. Tested on the Lion lathe for the last year and a half, they perform beautifully.
If your interested in learning more about the GoStop or to purchase one, go to their website www.gomfg.com
If you are interested in trying out Anchorlube, here is a link to their amazon store.
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I don’t know why people get bent out of shape on product recommendations. Part of why I watch these videos is to find out which of these products work. There’s a difference between recommending a genuinely good product and just being a shill for whoever throws a freebie at you. Please don’t get sucked into the Vevor frenzy. 😁
They keep reaching out to me. They do have a couple products I would actually be interested in, but they don't want to send me those. Oh well, no vevor reviews from me. Lol
Best review of their stuff I’ve seen was Howees look at their crappy micrometers. But it’s true, they do have some good, budget stuff as well.
Same here. If something works, it helps me to know about that product. I have heard that if not wiped away it will stain.
Even sponsored product placement is fine in my mind, as long as it's clear every time the product comes up. It's the people who have sponsored stuff everywhere that isn't called out that make me feel gross.
But unsponsored product endorsements? Yes please.
Totally agree.
Band saw tip; Years ago I saw something I had to ask about on a band saw. The machine shop had added a small wire wheel to clean the blade. It was mounted at an angle, rotating on a small machine screw with the movement of the blade. The idea being to wipe the chips from between the teeth. He said that a cracked or broken tooth could go around and get lodged in the cut and wipe out the blade. He said it made blades last much longer. I like the your pads, they would spread out the weight.
I have the wire wheel on my saw, but it is due for replacement.
I really like the trick of putting the centerdrill hole in before plunging with the endmill. That's a SUPER effective way to help the counterbore process! 👍👍
Josh- The majority of people don’t understand the importance of proper machine height. I believe the majority of people adjust to their equipment rather than taking the time to make the machines work for you. Your mods were absolutely beautiful and much needed. I see a platform in the Johnson’s future as it looks like that machine was designed by dwarfs. 😂👍. Awesome show, Thanks!
Very true. Most people don't give a thought to such things. Forty years ago, while working on a welding assembly line, I noticed a young guy welding at a nearby station. I think he had been there a couple of weeks. In one operation, he was welding a part at about eye level, but horizontal. So he could barely see it and he had his arms up over his head. He did this repeatedly. So I went over to him, tapped him on the shoulder, asked him to step out of the way, and .... I pulled out a platform that was stowed under his work station, that was provided there for the operator to stand on when performing the high welding. The expression on his face looked like an emoji. 😯
Many of my machines have been elevated to a better working height. Loading heavy parts is nice when they are low but that is it.
Instant fan! Your episode on making an Internal Keyway Cutter brought me to you. My current project is to cut keyways in bronze gears on 5" naval gun sight adjusters for the Battleship Texas. The gears were manufactured in roughly 1910 and had the keys as an integral piece of the gear. Over about 114 years some of the keys sheared off so we're cutting keyways and installing key stock. My machines are so tiny compared to yours it's laughable but the problem solving is the same. Your information is as good as Joe Pie but your mannerism is just like me when I'm trying to figure out how to cut something. Making parts good again for something so historical as the only remaining Dreadnought battleship is intimidating bit a great way to spend my retirement years.
I like that stacked parallel trick for round objects.. so simple. But so effective
Time for some new wiper wheels for your bandsaw. Love your videos. Keep up the great content.
Still working.
Some very smart ideas there, Josh. Got them stored in da head. Thanks for showing.
Enjoy your videos, keep up the good work.
Great video love watching buddy thanks for sharing
Absolutely love your user name. Lol
@@TopperMachineLLClol thanks I heard it on the tv show South Park and couldn’t resist using it lol it’s also funny when people are doing a live stream and I comment and then they say hello scrotie lol
That was interesting. Now the next one is your saw. The way I see it either you do the same or you buy some knee pads. The knee pads will cost less but the lifting will make a better video.
Saw stays low to the floor for stability. And it's easier to lift material a short distance than greater.
@@TopperMachineLLC That's good reasons not to fit a lift kit.
Well done Josh, hope it works for you.
It already has. Been working great for about 2 weeks.
Yep nice job ! Little john from the UK
Thanks for the video. You always do a nice job on both the video and the projects. I sure do miss working in steel fabrication and your videos sort of fill in the gap. I was just a button pusher on a laser for sheet metal but some of the same principles are the same for machining. I am glad that you were able to make your machine more user friendly. You make it look so easy but I know it took you time to develop your skills. Good to see you. Stay warm.
Great video as usual Josh 👍Greetings from Amsterdam 🇳🇱
Topper notch 😉
Great video thanks for sharing
Excellent! A few nice tips there for efficiently making multiple parts. 👍 I seem to always forget to zero my dials on the first part.
When I started out in the trade, that was the first thing I was taught. Your zeros are the single most important step in machining.
Excellent video Josh, well worth the wait.
You gave so many good tips it could be used as a teaching aid.
Thanks for sharing what you do with us.
Great video Josh, keep'um coming.
Absolutely love this channel Josh. Learned so much from you and applied it to my own projects.
Anchorlube is good stuff.. i'm kinda of diggin the green Monarch!!!
Good job josh
Thank you
Thanks for all the info Josh. Don't be shy about recommending products that work. There's a difference between shilling for the house and passing on good information--I like Anchor Lube too.
thanks for sharing
Nice to see some proper tried and tested machinists tricks.
Great job Josh, no back pain hopefully 🙏
Good one Josh !
Excellent.
Hockey pucks, from the great North. Nice tips re: the shims behind the parallels in the vise under the round part, and, the recessed center on the floor side of the pads.
I think I smell what you're stepping in with your hint about the coolant issue and the base design. 🧐
Great project and keep the endorsements coming if truely believe in them. A lot of us hobbyist can't afford to buy tons of products to find out they're crap so I appreciate a trusted source recommendation. 👍🏻
Yes I appreciate your honest feedback on new products you are using.
hello josh & it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks josh friends randy
Thx for answering. I guess I felt like it was more an issue of time and cutter wear that was concerning for me. I can’t wait until I buy a small lathe and mill! You and a few other UA-cam machinists are my inspiration.
I really like the design of the leveling feet and the way you made them. I learned a lot, thanks. I like that Gostop
Great video Josh, the risers and feet look great. Your back I'm sure will appreciate them. 🙂
Nice support and made right for sure. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Great video as always Josh, thank you for uploading! 👍👍
Don't worry about the idiots crying about you using Anchorlube, they're clearly not intelligent enough to understand the difference between _Recommending_ something and Shilling something. 🤷
That’s a pretty square cut straight off the bandsaw. Nice video.
Project Farm has built his whole channel delineating products that work. Find a good one, spread the word. I have noticed Adam Booth, Keith Rucker and others have been using the same product
You know your job, and it shows. Thanks for your time.
Man, Anchorlube is great even if just for the easy cleanup. A little goes a long way.
I’m learning a lot from your channel. As a non machinist I’m curious why your initial bandsaw cuts were so oversized. I understand they were meant to be turned to dimension. But they seemed excessively thick considering how much was turned off. Just curious.
Thanks. Mostly it was because I have serated jaws in the chucks. A smooth jaw would have less problem with holding the straightness on a shorter part. And the material was scrap, so I had no problem burning it up.
Thinking about the little Monarch height? You might take a side shot to show your ergonomics while operating to help determine if in fact, a back saving height change is in order.
The little monarch is consumed to the point of needing replacement. It's going to eventually be leaving the shop.
Looks like the little Monarch is the next one to do a lift kit on. I really think that we are considerably taller than out ancestors. I have a 1927 ATW 24" lathe that I have to stoop to reach the carriage handle and I'm only 5'8" ish. It will probably get lifted at some point.
The little monarch is the next one to get replaced. It has been consumed past it's useful limits. Maybe offer it for sale, but most likely scrapped.
I find it hard to believe no one would buy it, as is. Is there no hobbyist market around there?
@@dcraft1234 I'm sure someone would buy it. It's definitely worn out. It doesn't get used for precision work anymore. But it could be a hobby machine, for sure. As the 5th or 6th professional owner, I have consumed it to it's limit.
@@TopperMachineLLC That Monarch is too good to scrap. I'd love to have it, but I'm in Australia and in any case my shop is too small to fit it in. I'm sure someone will buy it.
Most excellent.
great video!
Morning Josh,
Ya did good again, another quick and easy and well explained vid. Ive been using Anchorlube for everything same as you but maybe for a bit longer....Great great product and results....BTW if you've never tried it, I took Stefan Gs hint and tried using pure IPA (isopropyl alcohol) as a lube to get super super finishes on 6061 and 7075 aluminum. Was impressed by that Go Stop you showed and mentioned and finally after searching a while, found them on their web site.....will be pulling the trigger for one prob on Monday. Honeydo's and last minute winterizing all week as we got dusted w that dreaded white stuff...ughhhh...deer season also opened and havent had the time yet to even think abt taking time to stand watch.....
Don
Your not getting a buzz from the alcohol boiling off and filling your shop air? I'm sure it works, but I'm more concerned about breathing that much wood alcohol. Just something to consider. Be safe!
Alls good w that only using a drop or two when needed, plus I have a ceiling fan that provides great heat and air circulation in the shop.... @@TopperMachineLLC
Could you post the website. I have not been able to find it.
@@stevesguitarworld4571 links in video description
I really need to do something similar for my Excello (not-Bridgeport). The base casting has 1" bored holes that only go about 2" through the base casting and then they open up into a "rough cast" pocket that is maybe 1-1/4" diameter that extends the other 3-4" to the bottom. My floor isn't remotely level and so I really need adjustment screws of some kind.
That lift kit turned out great. It might be time to put a lift kit on the Johnson and the Monarch now as well. They look too low for you.
OK, just reading through other comments and scrap that idea, with the Monarch departing and the Johnson staying low for stability and ease of lifting material into it.
The cores from using a trepanning boring tool would make nice pucks.
Sounds like a good plan for you to make some.
@@TopperMachineLLC Already used my cores for other jobs, but fortunately I don't need any levelling pads right now.
You sold me Josh, I gonna order some anchor lube. Does it mix well over ice? Just kidding - I really am going to try it.
Love this channel! May I ask why that beautiful old Monarch lathe is zombie green?
I liked the color, so I painted it. I prefer bright colors in the shop.
I would have left them thicker raising machine up off the floor a little more
When your in front of the monarch what is the lathe behind you. It never gets used .
It does get used, just not as much as it used to with the new Lion. That is another monarch. I had 3 of them at one time, but sold the biggest one to make room for the lion.
Josh, nice feet 😊 Really appreciate the master machinist tip about the center drill alleviating the workload on the center cutting endmill. That’s a keeper. The anchor lube and vice stop testimonials really means a lot coming from you. Thank you! Curious - why did you first sawed the feet length to over an inch if you wanted a finish size of .75? Was your original plan to make them thicker? Or did you make the bars longer so they would center up better in the 3-jaw chuck before you switch over to the soft jaws? Maybe because it’s easier to take decent cuts with carbide? You always have reasons 😂, I’m just not following this one? All the best to you…… 👍👍😎👍👍
Mostly it was for better centering in the chuck. Also I was planning on making them thicker to start with, but changed my mind.
Anchorlube is approximately £30 ($37) for 227ml (or 8Oz) her in the UK. I’m sure it’s a fantastic product and I have no issues with product reviews on any Channel. My usual cutting fluid is half the price and I’ve been using it for a long time. $37 for 8Oz? I’d rather 💩 in my hands and clap…
It is expensive, but the benefits have outweighed the cost. It really doesn't take much either. But to each their own. BTW, when you crap in your hands and clap, do it in a crowded room, preferably with a few fans. Share it with everyone. Lol.
Hi
Josh were you able to get in on the Zepher rebuild?
Yes. I have done most of the electrical engineering so far. I made most of the truck parts needed. I've done the planning and prep work for the propulsion. I will be doing all of the electrical engineering for the new drive system and all of the air brake design and install.
Please forgive me if you've already addressed this question, but I'm curious: how tall are you? I haven't met someone who was too tall for a milling machine. I'm not familiar with the brand of machine you're using, but it seems odd that such a short machine would be in mass production.
This question will be addressed in my next video.
I don’t ascribe to the idea of tightening up to one end of the jaws. I would have put another disk on the other side.
😎👍😎
There is a big difference between a product recommendation and reading a sponsor’s marketing copy. I see plenty of videos where the creator says “I’m not sponsored, but I love this stuff,” and plenty where it’s a product that has a so nothing to do with the channel.
What was the rpm set at for the lathe? Reason for asking is the use of the file at that rpm. I have always slowed the lathe to 200-250 rpm on 1-1.5 dia stock. Thinking maybe i can significantly increase the rpm (aka sfm) when doing similar file work. Yes a noob . Self teaching how to run a lathe.
I was running at 900 rpm. Just a reminder, a file is a consumable. It wears out and needs replacement.
@@TopperMachineLLC thank you for the reply. My dad Nicholson file might be worn out? It's a favorite.
@@larryblount3358 if it was your dad's, it's time to replace it. I replace at least one a month.
Nice as always But it looks like your Lathe needs to be a bit higher as
well, How tall are you
That lathe will probably be retired before it gets lifted. It is mostly consumed and needs replacement.
is there a reason why most you guy use a dial indicator stop guide rather than a solid stop?
Ridgid stops should never be used unless you have a feed disengage associated with it. A dial indicator gives you reaction time and fine tuning if you need it.
Why start with such thick pieces of material your making a lot of waste everybody seems to complain about material cost?
Longer piece holds straight in the chuck, I changed my mind on length half way through, and the material was scrap left over from a job that was already billed out.
That's a pretty big Johnson you have
That's what she said
It's big but needs a lift kit too. 😂
@@ilikec most of the sawing is done from a chair.
@@TopperMachineLLC 😂😂😂
The comment section is prime place for viewers to display their ignorance.
It sure is! Lol
looks to me like every machine you own is to close to the ground. or maybe you are too tall.
Hey Josh. Thanks for the heads up on the Anchor Lube. I haven't tried it yet for two reasons, but maybe you can help me with my skepticism. First, it looks so thick that I would guess that it's hard to get it placed where you want it. I've seen people struggling with that a bit in videos, as opposed to just spraying or squirting cutting oil. Second, it looks like it would make a mess with green goo everywhere. What does it take to clean it up? Wiping? Solvent? Does it leave a film? Is it sticky? I've been following the advice of another great UA-cam machinist, David Wilks, youtube@userwl2850
Of course he uses coolant on the huge jobs he does, but for drilling, cutting, tapping, threading, he thinks that WD-40 is best. I'm sure it's controversial, but I like it very much. Works, easy to spray on the tool and parts at the same time, and it goes where you need it. It will run down into holes and runs down drill bits and end mills to go right where you need it. Thick lube just can't do that. But as I said, I haven't tried it. I don't want to spend $20 to experiment when what I see in videos doesn't look like the best product for the job.
Thanks. Regards.