Several Model T suppliers carry the windshield slide knob for 1926-27 T's. But those models had the threaded part attached to the side of the windshield. But I imagine you could get a piece of threaded rod the same size as the threads on your existing knob and adapt the later knob. If you can't find an original. I'll see if any of my Model T friends have a spare.
On the starter. My pop has had a 27 Model T since the 60s. The starter speed always sounded like yours. Slow. And it has always worked fine. Regarding the missing windshield knurled knob, you might have luck at MTFCA forums. Those old guys have everything.
The contrast between the built and the updates is stark! In the updates you are self-assured, direct and to the point with what sounds like a well written script (but we know that's not the case). Fast forwarding is never used and the total production is so well done, it seems like it's your 5th shoot and edited to the T... but we know that's not the case, either. On the other hand, the builts are 90% fast forwarded and sometimes at lightning speed with little or no dialogue! The contrast is amazing! They are two entirely different forms of cinematogaphy yet you've mastered the art of fully communicating with your viewing audience. My guess is, 99% of your viewers are laser locked into your programing and full of anticipation of the next scene and vid! Very similar to expectant parents viewing an Ultrasound® of the unborn child and monitoring the progress each time they visit the doctor. They're locked in just like your vids! Bottom line is... don't change a thing...
I enjoy your updates on the car restoration projects, especially the model T. Kudos to you for doing all the work yourself! My thought about the slow starter was to check the ground. Lots of electrical faults can be traced to bad grounds.
Hi, this is Mike from Germany. 🇩🇪 Love your updates, love your content, so I subscribed! Being german I like the Porsche stuff most, but the Model T is also very inspiring.
I like what you have done, it will be a driver, don't worry about a museum piece, they already have those. Six volts are slower starters but ground is important and there is a lot of rust in between things after 98 years, a quick way to test would be to put a jumper cable on your ground post at the battery and then clamp onto a starter bolt or what ever near the starter which gives a direct path to ground. I had a model A turn over faster once I ran a separate cable. Could be issues with the starter as they have babbit material in them but you can hand prime with the crank first to save on it. Make sure the thrust washers are replaced when you get into the rear end, they are actually dangerous. Looking good!
When I first purchased my ‘27, it cranked real slow. New 6 volt battery and cables helped little. Sounded like the starter was dragging so I removed it. (Bendix has to come off first!) Wken I took the starter apart it literally fell to pieces! How it functioned at all I do not know. I showed it to a rebuild shop. They told me it was the original starter and was too far gone for them to rebuild! Exchanged it with Snyder’s and now it cranks fine. Not as quick as 12 of course but much faster than yours. This early starter was completely overbuilt. Large and incredibly heavy, all to turn over a 20 horse power engine!
Well mine used to be 6 volt and it cranked over slow . Going to pick up a trailer load of parts . May ha e the knurled knob in this haul . Guy said he had windshield frames . So may have a knob in the parts . Will let you know if I get one
My old Model A had a similar set up on windshield push out , but not exactly. It had a knurled nut that screwed onto a post that was part of the side windshield molding. Not sure if you could weld a piece onto the side molding and use an “A” nut or not. Probably wouldn’t be as good, but might work if nothing else available. Great video, as always!
To legally run it on the road you will need a wiper, and the hand crank one will be fine. I wondered what it would take to get one of those on the road, with all the Special parts, I'll just let you do it! Great video
A Model T never had a windshield wiper as standard equipment. They were never original equipment from the manufacturer, it is not needed unless the owner wants it. First offered as a Dealer accessory in 1926.
Unless you plan on doing a frame off restoration to make it a Concourse car, just leave the phillips head screws in the top, or dab it with some black paint to hide it. :-)
I see others have posted about the battery cable size, 2/0 or 00 is right, but what about your ground cable/strap? With a 6 volt system it is very important to have as much power coming and going. I have always had a new ground cable made out of the 00 size cable, not the original style strap I know, but it makes a world of difference. Check all of your ground connections again, clean-bright-and-tight, especially where the starter mates to the hogshead. If that does not help. time to look at the starter. As for your missing windshield knob, go over to the Model T Ford Club of America Forum and post an ad in the classifieds, one will pop up pretty quick. Good luck and keep up the good work.
the windshield thumb knob: Residential and motorhome movable awnings use somewhat similar thumb knobs. Also kitchen cabinet knobs have similar knob shapes. Actually anything that uses a thumb knob could be machined to work.
Over here in the UK some of our earlier small motorbikes, including Japanese imports, were of the 6 volt variety and their bulbs were of that voltage. I'm sure that they are still available. How about American small bike sellers? are they the same. Probably have to look at bikes from the 60's early 70's or earlier. But i do know the early Honda 50's 75's and 120's were 6 volt.
What size cables do you have on the starter? With 6 volts you need 0 or 00 size cable. You can check the voltage drop to the starter by cranking the engine while measuring the voltage. The battery voltage measured at the battery should stay above 4.8 volts while cranking. The voltage at the starter should also be within 0.2 volt of what the measured battery voltage is during cranking. You should also measure the ground side. With the voltmeter connected between battery ground and the starter case, you shouldn't see more than 0.2 volts. A reading of more points to a bad connection between the starter case and the battery. If the cranking voltage at the battery is less than 4.8 volts, you either have a battery that is discharged or bad, or the starter is drawing too much current and needs to be rebuilt.
When a six volt car is hard to start, people always blame the six volt system. The fact is that when these cars were new they started with no trouble. If they were problematic they would've never left the show room. There's always a reason behind hard starting. The trick is to find that reason and correct it without resorting to the gimmick of changing to twelve volts to cover up the problem.
First thing to check is the battery cable. The ground cable should be attached to the frame without any paint behind it. It's a good idea to scrape off that area before attaching it. The cable to the starter switch from the negative post of the battery should be designed for a 6-volt car. You probably won't find that at your local parts house unless you ask for it specifically. A 12-volt cable just can't provide enough "juice".
It seems almost every part for the Ford type A is still made and available, I don't know if you can find the retain knob there that is similar as the windows system is globally the same as on the Ford model T.
I noticed in an earlier video the windshield came out in several pieces and was clearly not tempered safety glass. I hope you have or will be replacing that stuff with automotive glass. Flat panels are not that expensive.
Your battery cables are for 12 volt system! All my 6 volt vehicles don’t turn over slowly there’s something wrong and I always find people using 12 volt cables on 6 volt system they need to be bigger gage cables...
I am building the same model T myself, I got all the skins for it, I am just missing the wood. The wood is long gone. Is there any way you could measure the wood frame and floor boards and make me a diagram? Or do you know where I could find this information?
@@Jerod_Helt Can you suggest one, the one I asked said that he did not want anybody to have his diagrams in fear of competition. I'm about to try to just make it look right, I have drawings of what I need but not measurements, I might attempt to reverse engineer the measurements from the only one peace of wood I have. I enjoy your show, I save all your clips, I'm going to use them as reference when I start putting things together. I have a 23-25 body, a 1920, some odds and ends everything is sourced from different part across my state I am latterly building my car from scratch from left over parts.
I’m sure you will overcome all the problems, could you just pop over to Yorkshire, and have a look at my old Nissan ? ( stay safe thank you so much) Doug Yorkshire.
JW-Winco Knurled Shoulder Thumb Screws Global .Industries.. Precision Shoulder Thumb Screws / Knurled... "need to know the thread size." it's a common type should thumb screw. brass, black, stainless .or zinced
Several Model T suppliers carry the windshield slide knob for 1926-27 T's. But those models had the threaded part attached to the side of the windshield. But I imagine you could get a piece of threaded rod the same size as the threads on your existing knob and adapt the later knob. If you can't find an original. I'll see if any of my Model T friends have a spare.
On the starter. My pop has had a 27 Model T since the 60s. The starter speed always sounded like yours. Slow. And it has always worked fine. Regarding the missing windshield knurled knob, you might have luck at MTFCA forums. Those old guys have everything.
for the window retain knobs try looking for cupboard knob maybe you`ll find a similar thing there .
I like the hand crank wiper. It always makes people laugh.
The contrast between the built and the updates is stark!
In the updates you are self-assured, direct and to the point with what sounds like a well written script (but we know that's not the case). Fast forwarding is never used and the total production is so well done, it seems like it's your 5th shoot and edited to the T... but we know that's not the case, either.
On the other hand, the builts are 90% fast forwarded and sometimes at lightning speed with little or no dialogue! The contrast is amazing! They are two entirely different forms of cinematogaphy yet you've mastered the art of fully communicating with your viewing audience. My guess is, 99% of your viewers are laser locked into your programing and full of anticipation of the next scene and vid! Very similar to expectant parents viewing an Ultrasound® of the unborn child and monitoring the progress each time they visit the doctor. They're locked in just like your vids!
Bottom line is... don't change a thing...
Thanks buddy! I really appreciate the kind words
@@Jerod_Helt They're well deserved!
Good update.
Thanks, and Woof to Walter.
Beautiful. Amazing work. I have restored 5 Corvairs myself and the Model T looks harder in many ways. Great work, I love the patina.
I enjoy your updates on the car restoration projects, especially the model T. Kudos to you for doing all the work yourself! My thought about the slow starter was to check the ground. Lots of electrical faults can be traced to bad grounds.
Hi, this is Mike from Germany. 🇩🇪 Love your updates, love your content, so I subscribed! Being german I like the Porsche stuff most, but the Model T is also very inspiring.
I like what you have done, it will be a driver, don't worry about a museum piece, they already have those. Six volts are slower starters but ground is important and there is a lot of rust in between things after 98 years, a quick way to test would be to put a jumper cable on your ground post at the battery and then clamp onto a starter bolt or what ever near the starter which gives a direct path to ground. I had a model A turn over faster once I ran a separate cable. Could be issues with the starter as they have babbit material in them but you can hand prime with the crank first to save on it. Make sure the thrust washers are replaced when you get into the rear end, they are actually dangerous. Looking good!
Can’t wait for the test drive. Great updates. Thanks...
Rain-X all you need for the windshield, forget wipers.
6 volt battery cables should be O size or OO. Makes a large difference.
I ordered the new cables from Snyder’s. They’re the same as the stock cables 👍
You may look at using original type braided ground cable new stranded type ground cable will not carry the load
Could be the brushes in your starter motor if you take it apart again check the brushes for sure or replace them.
@@Jerod_Helt Snyder’s should have the bulb you need for the dash. That’s where I got mine.
Happy Estern and thank you for this Video. I love this pretty Automobile , I can't wait for the next Video.
i know I am kinda randomly asking but does anyone know of a good place to watch new movies online?
When I first purchased my ‘27, it cranked real slow. New 6 volt battery and cables helped little. Sounded like the starter was dragging so I removed it. (Bendix has to come off first!) Wken I took the starter apart it literally fell to pieces! How it functioned at all I do not know. I showed it to a rebuild shop. They told me it was the original starter and was too far gone for them to rebuild! Exchanged it with Snyder’s and now it cranks fine. Not as quick as 12 of course but much faster than yours. This early starter was completely overbuilt. Large and incredibly heavy, all to turn over a 20 horse power engine!
Well mine used to be 6 volt and it cranked over slow . Going to pick up a trailer load of parts . May ha e the knurled knob in this haul . Guy said he had windshield frames . So may have a knob in the parts . Will let you know if I get one
You’ll do good on the seats. Looking forward to the next video.
My old Model A had a similar set up on windshield push out , but not exactly. It had a knurled nut that screwed onto a post that was part of the side windshield molding. Not sure if you could weld a piece onto the side molding and use an “A” nut or not. Probably wouldn’t be as good, but might work if nothing else available. Great video, as always!
Try Egge Machine Shop there in Los Angeles . These Guys have or can make that Nut for the Windshield Glass Sweep . Happy Easter !
To legally run it on the road you will need a wiper, and the hand crank one will be fine. I wondered what it would take to get one of those on the road, with all the Special parts, I'll just let you do it! Great video
A Model T never had a windshield wiper as standard equipment. They were never original equipment from the manufacturer, it is not needed unless the owner wants it. First offered as a Dealer accessory in 1926.
I'd look around for an upholstery shop to help you out with the seats. They have special equipment and tools to put that together for you.
Unless you plan on doing a frame off restoration to make it a Concourse car, just leave the phillips head screws in the top, or dab it with some black paint to hide it. :-)
I see others have posted about the battery cable size, 2/0 or 00 is right, but what about your ground cable/strap? With a 6 volt system it is very important to have as much power coming and going. I have always had a new ground cable made out of the 00 size cable, not the original style strap I know, but it makes a world of difference. Check all of your ground connections again, clean-bright-and-tight, especially where the starter mates to the hogshead. If that does not help. time to look at the starter. As for your missing windshield knob, go over to the Model T Ford Club of America Forum and post an ad in the classifieds, one will pop up pretty quick. Good luck and keep up the good work.
the windshield thumb knob: Residential and motorhome movable awnings use somewhat similar thumb knobs. Also kitchen cabinet knobs have similar knob shapes. Actually anything that uses a thumb knob could be machined to work.
Looking forward to seeing the next stage in your resto.
You can do the seats! I know You can!
Over here in the UK some of our earlier small motorbikes, including Japanese imports, were of the 6 volt variety and their bulbs were of that voltage. I'm sure that they are still available. How about American small bike sellers? are they the same. Probably have to look at bikes from the 60's early 70's or earlier. But i do know the early Honda 50's 75's and 120's were 6 volt.
What size cables do you have on the starter? With 6 volts you need 0 or 00 size cable. You can check the voltage drop to the starter by cranking the engine while measuring the voltage. The battery voltage measured at the battery should stay above 4.8 volts while cranking. The voltage at the starter should also be within 0.2 volt of what the measured battery voltage is during cranking. You should also measure the ground side. With the voltmeter connected between battery ground and the starter case, you shouldn't see more than 0.2 volts. A reading of more points to a bad connection between the starter case and the battery.
If the cranking voltage at the battery is less than 4.8 volts, you either have a battery that is discharged or bad, or the starter is drawing too much current and needs to be rebuilt.
Thanks for the good info. The cables came from Snyder’s they’re the same as the original cables.
Muy buen proyecto, esta quedando hermoso👏🏼👏🏼. Saludos desde Argentina❤🇦🇷
Happy Easter!
When a six volt car is hard to start, people always blame the six volt system. The fact is that when these cars were new they started with no trouble. If they were problematic they would've never left the show room. There's always a reason behind hard starting. The trick is to find that reason and correct it without resorting to the gimmick of changing to twelve volts to cover up the problem.
First thing to check is the battery cable. The ground cable should be attached to the frame without any paint behind it. It's a good idea to scrape off that area before attaching it. The cable to the starter switch from the negative post of the battery should be designed for a 6-volt car. You probably won't find that at your local parts house unless you ask for it specifically. A 12-volt cable just can't provide enough "juice".
It seems almost every part for the Ford type A is still made and available, I don't know if you can find the retain knob there that is similar as the windows system is globally the same as on the Ford model T.
Sure, cant help waiting next video
I noticed in an earlier video the windshield came out in several pieces and was clearly not tempered safety glass. I hope you have or will be replacing that stuff with automotive glass. Flat panels are not that expensive.
I replaced it with modern Saftey glass 👍
Your battery cables are for 12 volt system! All my 6 volt vehicles don’t turn over slowly there’s something wrong and I always find people using 12 volt cables on 6 volt system they need to be bigger gage cables...
Wouldn’t happen to be associated with Lang’s model t parts ?
I ordered the new cables from Snyder’s . They’re just like the original cables
That's strange the engine has to go before the headlights turn on but this car has them on when the engine doesn't run.
Nice car
Try a 8 volt battery my wife's uncle uses them his model ts he has a 12,26,and a 27 model t
Thanks, nice to to see you make a “talkie”. Twelve dislikes, they probably drive Yugos.
I like the originaly watch!
🤩🥰 Groetjes uit Holland 👋🏼✊
There's an issue between restored and unrestored. New headlight bulbs aren't "restored."
Make sure you are running 6volt battery cables not 12v ! This may be part of your slow cranking issue.
thank you for this Video.
I can post you a video of mine spinning over on the starter for a reference
I am building the same model T myself, I got all the skins for it, I am just missing the wood. The wood is long gone. Is there any way you could measure the wood frame and floor boards and make me a diagram? Or do you know where I could find this information?
Several venders sell full wood kits, maybe they have a diagram👍
@@Jerod_Helt Can you suggest one, the one I asked said that he did not want anybody to have his diagrams in fear of competition. I'm about to try to just make it look right, I have drawings of what I need but not measurements, I might attempt to reverse engineer the measurements from the only one peace of wood I have. I enjoy your show, I save all your clips, I'm going to use them as reference when I start putting things together. I have a 23-25 body, a 1920, some odds and ends everything is sourced from different part across my state I am latterly building my car from scratch from left over parts.
Buen video maquina
I’m sure you will overcome all the problems, could you just pop over to Yorkshire, and have a look at my old Nissan ? ( stay safe thank you so much) Doug Yorkshire.
JW-Winco Knurled Shoulder Thumb Screws
Global .Industries.. Precision Shoulder Thumb Screws / Knurled... "need to know the thread size."
it's a common type should thumb screw. brass, black, stainless .or zinced
Christus resurrexit! Resurrexit vere! Alleluia! In Germany The roof inside the car is called heaven (Himmel)!
Felicidades muy bien hecho.desde la ciudad de México Abril del l2021
How match H.P. in this car?
About 20
Unrestored when you received it.
👍👍✌️
I can see their argument, though. You made your car drivable.
La renovation intérieure n'est pas faite !
Tried posting a link but not seeing it. Do a search on 16-26690-1.