Eachine ET6 Hit & Miss - Changing O-Rings
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- Опубліковано 7 січ 2025
- Removing the head for access to piston ring o-rings and replacing the water jacket liner o-rings.
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Very nice videos, now I learned how to replace the old O rings. Thanks a lot !
Good video. Replacing the o-rings is a lot easier than I thought it would be.
So satisfying.
Thanks for the great content.
Keep up the good work.
בס״ד
Bonjour Ronald,
Thanks to your video, I see how my M92 is built, I would not have dared to open it !
Amicalement, Raphaël
You are welcome!
Thanks for watching.
Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel running.
Ron
Hello Ronald. Great YT channel and beautiful little engines. Bust I need al little help. I took crankshaft off because I had no compression. Thought one of the O rings on piston was broken. Was ok so put it back together again. ( intake valve did not close completely. A bit of a weak spring I think ) BUT have replaced crankshaft in another position. ( turned ) now the ignition and or valve timing is off. Won’t start and run. Can not find a manual about that. What should timing be and how can I set it right?
Hope you cannelloni me or point me to a manual.
Thank you
Arie
Netherlands.
Hello Arie,
I have a video on timing these 4-cycle engines.
The engine in the video is the ET8 (M93) but the timing is the same for all of these engines.
You want the spark to fire "Just PAST Top Dead Center" and this is explained in the video.
Loss of compression could be due to either valve. All it takes is a tiny piece of carbon or something else under the valve, which will keep it from sealing. Sometimes you can save yourself the trouble of disassembly by removing the spark plug and spraying WD40 into the head/exhaust/intake to see if you can flush things clean again... maybe the gentle use of compressed air. Too much oil (or the wrong type oil) in the fuel can cause a bit excess carbon.
Eachine 4 Cycle Engines - Ignition Timing
ua-cam.com/video/U8NZ33mijXI/v-deo.html
Good Luck... Have Fun!
Ron
Nice video, as all of your videos are.
Using rubber o-rings as piston rings, exposed to the fire of combustion, seems crazy to me. How long do they expect them to last during operation? Even sitting on a shelf, rubber will deteriorate, it's just a matter of time. Proper iron piston rings would be nice. It's probable a cost savings thing.
The green o-rings are FKM (fluorocarbon or fluoro-rubber) type material, resistant to oil, gas, water, alcohol solvents, high temperature and high pressure and seem to last a long time. And they are relatively easy to replace by most anyone. Some viewers say they get 4-5 hours on a set of o-rings running at no-load, and that is a lot of running for one of these little engines.
Shelf life is basically unlimited.
After a while, they start to get flat where they rub on the liner and then they need to be replaced.
The piston o-rings in this video still looked good. I put them back in and they are still running.
Being a hit & miss engine that does not fire all of the time helps prolong life as well.
These are demonstration, model, hobby engines and are relatively easy to work on. Anyone who purchases one of these engines should fully realize they are going to need to service and do occasional maintenance.
Thanks for watching!
Ron
Well done !
Great video! Thanks for sharing❗❗❗ 🙂🙂🙂 👍👍👍
Hi Banggood is still giving me the run around on the ET6 ign system that failed after 60 seconds. keep requesting video of engine running? their translator doesnt work very well. anyway i pulled the head and noticed it only had the upper piston ring... good thing i ordered a pack. ive seen this on other videos with replacement parts sent... same thing only upper ring. can you confirm it is designed for 2 even tho they build them with 1?
This has been covered several times in comments for various engine videos. Going back to ET1 they were using two o-rings. In order to slow down the engine (for a more realistic hit & miss run) they started using only one o-ring to lower the compression. Most of the engines only have one o-ring installed.
If you paid for your engine using PayPal you can file a claim against Banggood for a refund and that will get their attention (maybe).
Did you use one of my links to purchase your ET6? If so, give me your order number, date purchased, date received. Also I hope you saved the original packaging. They often want a photo of the shipping label and the bar code on the box. Go to my channel page... click on about... lower left corner and send me an email using that address with the above information and photos.
Mr. Walters, do you do trouble shooting/repairs? My ET6 stopped running after a total of about 3 hours of running, total. It has no compression and started spraying fuel out of the carburetor as it quit during the last time it ran.
Sorry, I do not work on these engines. You will need to do learn how to do that yourself.
Lots of small pieces on the ET6. Sounds like something is sticking and holding a valve open. That would cause a loss of compression as could a worn out piston o-ring.
These things vibrate and shake around a good deal. Things can loosen up including the flywheels and the magnet disk for the timing. Exhausting out the carburetor can happen if it backfires and is trying to run backwards. Maybe the timing disk has moved slightly. It should fire just past TDC (top dead center). If it fires before "AT or BEFORE TDC", it can backfire.
If the flywheel slips on the crankshaft it can change the timing of the valves. Regular maintenance, oiling and checking that things are still tight is required with these engines.
I go over a number of these issues in my videos. Next week March 26th I release a video on the timing of these engines.
Most of my engine related videos are grouped in a playlist on my channel.
Please subscribe so you will know when a new video is released.
Thanks for watching.
Ron
Where can I get O rings for this engine……mine has no compression….
Use this link: www.enginediy.com/?ref=V81L4uEO
Search for: SKU 33ED3201529 which is correct for ET6 or M92 (which are the same engine).
Ron
Nice engine! I am curious. This was 7 months ago.. What condition is the engine in today? Does it still run as good as the day you got it? I am thinking about buying one of these engines.. I definitely do like the extra complexity to this engine compared to most others the same size..
I do not run these engines all the time... but whenever I decide to run one or demonstrate it for someone, they run perfectly. I recommend Coleman lantern fuel with just a hint of Marvel Mystery Oil. Oil it and keep it clean. Empty the fuel, water and take out the batteries when it is not going to be used for a while.
ET1, ET6 & ET7 are my favorites of the larger size horizontal hit & miss engines. ET7 has the simplest governor mechanism and is the easiest to replace the piston o-ring. All three are visually easier to see the piston/crankshaft and time (when necessary). ET6 is a very nice engine but possibly (to me) a bit more fragile in terms of the complicated governor mechanism with the small pieces. But, if maintained (oil and keep it clean) should have a long life.
I would avoid the ET8 and the ET5. ETX is a good runner but overly complicated.
The newest EM2 vertical brass hit & miss seems a nice engine, but it is not strong enough to run anything else.
Hope that helps. I have videos on all of these engines. There are also videos on slowing them down a little.
Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel going.
Ron
hi, what material are the piston rings made of?
The green rubber o-rings are a high temperature rubber called FKM which represents fluorocarbon-based fluoroelastomer material. Sometimes called fluorine rubber or fluoro-rubber. If you are looking for the green o-rings on eBay look for FKM.
The black o-rings are primarily neoprene or Nitrile and are the most common general purpose o-ring color.
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
That is what keeps this channel going.
Ron
nice video, how long did you run the engine before you needed to replace piston rings?
This engine has a couple of hours on it. I stuck the old piston o-rings back in the engine as they still looked good. The point of the video was I needed to replace the o-rings on the liner.... not the piston.
@@RonaldWalters2010
Oh .ok may ask what fuel and oil your using on yours.iam currently using petrol with a.drop of 2 stroke oil
Hit & Miss Engines - The Correct Fuel
ua-cam.com/video/TvLziWCI7Oo/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching.
Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel running.
Ron
Where did you get the o rings?
They are listed in the description for the video. Same o-ring as the ET1.
@@RonaldWalters2010 do they have the water gasket one too? I only saw piston rings. Thanks
Sorry, I was not thinking about the liner o-rings.
Not yet... I am working on it.
Probably won't happen until AFTER the Chinese New Year... after Feb 17th.
@@RonaldWalters2010 those o rings that you mentioned the diameter. Is that the size of the water gasket?
Yes. The liner o-ring is 28MM OD x 1.5mm Wire Diameter x 25mm ID and I would suggest the green ones which are high temperature o-rings. You can probably find them on Ebay.
The "bearings" are a bit of a disappointment. Less so considering the price. I wish they at least provided an oiling hole for them.
An oil hole in the lower end of the connection rod would not put oil where it is b=needed. And the crankshaft runs on two roller or needle bearing assemblies and an oil hole would not get them oil either. A little oil before each run either side of the conrod and the crankshaft (and the piston wrist pin) seems sufficient.
i guess they never miss huh