Simplest Ryobi and Parkside battery connectors
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- Опубліковано 7 бер 2022
- I got the urge to make a battery connector that fits on my Ryobi or Parkside power tool batteries.
Thingiverse had lots of designs, but they all seemed quite complicated and would have taken a while to print, so I designed super minimalist versions that print in less than 15 minutes.
For both battery connectors the contacts are standard male spade-crimps. It was the easiest way to get a plated copper contact, and it turned out that they are a good fit in both designs.
The current rating should be good, but don't push things too far. An inline fuse is a good option if there is a risk of the powered device short circuiting.
The Parkside batteries are sold by Lidl, but may be available as a different brand outside Europe. Note that some battery packs do not have internal overdischarge protection, so care should be taken to avoid discharging the packs below around 3V per cell. For an 18/20V pack that's usually around 15V.
The Ryobi one is ugly but functional. I may revisit the design later to add a cup for gluing the terminals in more neatly.
The scripts are down below. Copy and paste them into openscad to create your STL files or use them as a base for your own version.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of UA-cam's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
Here's the Parkside openscad script:-
//Parkside battery mini adaptor
//Use with two male spade crimps
difference(){
union(){
//main block
cube([46,20,10]);
}
//side slides
translate([-1,5,5])
cube([6,21,6]);
translate([41,5,5])
cube([6,21,6]);
translate([4,5,-1])
cube([3.5,20,12]);
translate([38.5,5,-1])
cube([3.5,20,12]);
//Terminal cutouts
translate([8.5,1,1])
cube([6,18,10]);
translate([31.5,1,1])
cube([6,18,10]);
//terminal slots
translate([10.5,17,1])
cube([2,10,10]);
translate([33.5,17,1])
cube([2,10,10]);
//cable slots
translate([10,-1,4])
cube([3,10,10]);
translate([33,-1,4])
cube([3,10,10]);
//plastic and time saver
translate([15.5,1,1])
cube([15,18,10]);
}
Here's the Ryobi openscad script:-
//Ryobi adaptor
$fn=50;
height=20;
difference(){
union(){
//main block
cylinder(h=height,d=29);
translate([-14.5,0,0])
cube([29,20.5,height]);
}
//battery recess
translate([0,0,1])
cylinder(h=height,d=27);
translate([-13.5,0,1])
cube([27,19.5,height]);
//terminal slots
translate([-12.5,3.5,-1])
cube([2,7,5]);
translate([10.5,3.5,-1])
cube([2,7,5]);
//polarity markings
translate([-7,6.5,-1])
cube([5,1,5]);
translate([4,4.5,-1])
cube([1,5,5]);
translate([2,6.5,-1])
cube([5,1,5]);
}
//Pressure plates
translate([-14.5,3.5,0])
cube([2,7,14]);
translate([12.5,3.5,0])
cube([2,7,14]); - Наука та технологія
Can we all take a moment to appreciate the work this man is doing to educate and entertain us. Man thank you very much.
@Schwalbe_262 good way to cover your tracks .
@Schwalbe_262 And I thought I was experiencing yt deja vu.... Oh well, I'm not as in sync as I thought.
But every morning, at about the same time, i take a minute to thank Big Clive. It's part of my morning routine 🤓👍😁
@Schwalbe_262 you can appreciate their work too bro it's not that hard
@Schwubbles_262 it's the kind of comment someone posts to stroke their own ego by how many likes it gets, we all appreciate Clive's video's anyway, that's why we're here, we don't need to be told to do that or to affirm that his comment is so groundbreaking and true, but since it's kissing Ass of a video creator we all know and like, plenty of us will click the thumbs up like brainwashed automatons that do not posses free thoughts, lol. (When I say "us" I mean "them". as I try not to reward someone trying to make a name for themself off someone else's hard work, rather thumbs up the video than the comment! 💁♂️)
He does it for the beer 🍺
You really need to have a fuse in-line close to the battery, as these batteries can easily put out enough current to melt wires that thick. (The Makita 18V packs are internally protected by two 50 amp fuses in parallel!)
Also, be aware that most lithium tool packs don't have internal over-discharge/undervoltage protection, as this is usually done by the motor controller in the tool, so connecting to random loads could trash the battery if left to discharge too low,
Mike, Your telling a guy that heats up his bath with an unearthed kettle element on an extension lead to use a fuse 😂😂🤣🤣🤣 "Its elfunsaftee gawn mad"!!
While most batteries don't have over discharge protection every one I have ever opened does have a fuseable link basically just a super thin one inch trace that is basically a 30-60 amp fuse and I have blown them they work even the off brand China replacements I have opened have them. and on better brands like Makita Milwaukee and dewalt they have actual fuses or fuseable resistors
That's strange, my Ridgid batteries are great for this, protection is in the battery, I assumed this was standard. It has to be on at least TTI brand tools - Ryobi, Ridgid, Milwaukee, and AEG. The batteries are pretty much the same inside. Always shuts off at 15v, 3v per cell, perfect! Overcurrent protection too.
Most of these batteries are meant to be backwards compatible for old NiCD tools, obviously they never came with onboard protection, so protection *has* to be in the battery.
I do like to include a self resetting 30A breaker in adapters like this anyway, like $5.
How are we supposed to smoke our badly designed Chinese-made LED lights when we keep blowing the fuses? Mmmm?
@@ryanroberts1104 Spot on information. Dewalt Bosch Kobalt and most off brand "Dewalt style slider" 18v packs have No BMS, only fuse link and maybe charge level button indicator circuitry. One way to safely use Dewalt packs is to make a connector using an OEM Dewalt battery adapter designed to allow use of Lion on their older NiCad tools, which has protection circuit built in (only dewalt oem ; the cheap aftermarket adapters have no protection).
To prevent "elefant's foot" at the bottom of prints, I usually add a small chamfer at all the bottom edges of about 0.4mm in the actual CAD model.
Or enable elephant's foot compensation in your slicer which shrinks the first layer a bit.
Or you could, if you have no qualms about wasting a little bit of filament, use a raft. I found it helps with bed adhesion as well as making sure you don't get the elephant's foot deal.
@@sonosus Where do i find this in Cura?
@@pepethefrog7193 search for “Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion.” You can add a small negative value (try -0.01 and decrease by 0.01 every try). This will help offset any elephant’s foot. As you run your mouse over the “Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion.” text, you get a pop-up message relating to Elephants foot.
Thanks for these Clive; a nice simple solution, and really useful for me as I have a load of those Parkside battery packs. Thing to note: The Lidl/Parkside packs don't have any over discharge protection, as it is in the tools and not the battery pack. So if you use this with the Parkside batteries, make sure you add an over discharge circuit, or be careful not to let them get too low.
the 12v ones have a pcb in which i assume is the charge circuitry/protection.
To be more accurate - the battery does have protection sensing but doesn't have power mosfets for cutoff. Protection is thus split between the battery and the tool.
When battery gets low, the battery sends "alarm" signal over temperature connection to signal the tool to cutoff. External protection will not be ideal since you don't see all cell voltages (only battery does) and thus if one cell is lower than others external protection may cause damage/early failure.
To properly use Parkside 20V batteries you need to replicate what the tool does. Battery has 10K? (guessed value) NTC resistor across third "temperature" pin and GND pin - in normal state but if any alarm condition occurs (like cell undervoltage) battery disconnects NTC and thus creates voltage resulting in invalid temperature (around -20C) and this signals the tool to cutoff. The tool has pull up resistor on third pin creating voltage divider together with what battery has as pull down resistor, when battery signals alarm then third pin has around 4.5V with 10K pullup to 5V. Perhaps there is 100K? parallel resistor across NTC, this would explain why alarm isn't 5V when NTC is disconnected (100K pull down is always connected). Thus proper protection wound need to monitor third temperature pin with pull up and when voltage gets very high on the temperature pin then mosfets or relay need to be disconnected (for example if divider equates to >=4V with 10K pull up to 5V).
@@aeroflopper 12V team has complete protection inside battery. 20V team has also protection PCB inside the battery but major part is missing and it is included in every tool.
@@tomaskolinger Thanks for the info! I always wondered why there are 4 connector pins on the batteries. I think it makes sense for the circuitry to be in the tool, as it makes the spare battery packs cheaper to buy. Can't remember where I heard that the battery is not over discharge protected, but I think Julian Ilett probably did a tear down at some time.
@@tomaskolinger But if I want to use Parkside tool with Einhell or Makita battery, would tool work by just grounding Temp pin ?
Nice one! As a teenager (like 15 years ago) I played with power tool batteries to power all kinds of things, like PC speakers and connect them to an MP3 player for use on the go with friends. I speculated with ideas and designs how to properly connect to the battery without repurposing a power tool. 3D printing made this so much easier.
Your design is so neat. And all that in under six minutes. No BS, just the facts and how it was done.
Brilliant article. I think that if we all sat and thought about how much time/money we spent dealing with batteries then we'd be shocked.
This is the video I didn't know I needed. I have like a dozen batteries from the Lidl X20V team and I always wanted to be able to use them in my electronic projects for powering things up. It turns out I just need to print this little adapter and add a couple spade connectors and some hot glue and I have 20V at my disposal. Pretty neat. It is for things like these that I love your videos. Keep up the good work! ❤️
Nicely done! I've got a Ryobi generator and it's pretty well built, so I'm happy to see Ryobi staying alive.
I always think of Clive as a sort of superior BBC whose mission is " serve all audiences through the provision of impartial, high-quality and distinctive output and services which inform, educate and entertain", indubitably one of the best channels on UA-cam.
Very neat! I often poke bared wires into the terminals when I need to use a tool battery to temporarily power something, this is much more convenient!
I have been pushing bladed terminals into my power tool batteries for years.... did it one year to power my niece's power wheels jeep, that thing was doing donuts all over the driveway!
A real man connects one testicle to each terminal.
@@MattyEngland No, a real man would do it using the stun gun module which Clive has demonstrated before during a drinking session! ;-) Hahaha!
@@ericoppel5698 Wtf, Clive really tasered his own balls? 🤣🤣
Often use my DeWalt batteries to power up and down car windows when installing speakers and sound deadening like dynamat
Oh this is excellent, I did this a few years back almost the exact same way around, however I was trying to rescue a 'dead' pack and also used fork terminals with one half of the fork cut off to pop into the smaller between-cell terminals that were present on the pack to let my cell balancer do it proper, and not blindly. In the end it worked and my friend's battery pack lived to see some further use.
Oh wow! I am amazed at the ideas you come up with Clive. Never thought about making a simple battery adapter before. I also love the way you teach, like I think you're more street smart than book smart, but that's definitely NOT a bad thing! I wish they'd let people like you teach this stuff in schools, many useful things (we were one of the last few that were taught soldering in school (around 2005-2006) - imagine that these days!) :)
Thanks Clive, I have watch your videos for years. Some to satisfy my inner 8 year old (Haha), others are simply brilliant this one included. I immediately went to my box of spade connectors and found two that fit my Ridgid 18V pack.
For the Ryobi connector, you could design a cover cap that hides the glue shmoo. It could be like a slightly larger one that slides on top and you could have your exit holes wherever you want. It would printed just as quickly.
Used to work in a textile factory and did this to charge my phone and also made a super thin torch with led strip and a metal rod perfect for the job we needed.
I like to welde my terminals in with a 3D pen and the same filament used to print it. Also the full size connector print fast on resin printers set the pins in with a bit more resin and a blast of UV.
I've added a voltage converter or a 5v regulated usb port. Very useful.
I designed myself a connector too. For a client how wants to use these on the fly for a e-bike.
I used the lip of the battery to ensure it didn’t come off due to vibrations.
It was a nice project. Quit fun to make.
I have that first battery. I never realized I could check the status by pressing a little button. Saw you do it and thought: "Does my battery have that check button and leds?" and it did :) Thank you for that.
I make mine out of layers of plywood and chisel everything to shape by hand :)
I've even done this for HILTI batteries and Hilti's batteries are _male._ So I had to make female spring contacts on an anvil, anneal them, and carefully carve up a chunk of wood to make a female pinbus to put all of the pins into. (anvils and hammering are so much fun😁)
Hahaha, did the same to our Black&Decker electric weed trimmer. Made up a pack of 2x5 18650 LiPo's to replace the original dead NiCad pack. Made the connector with salvaged pins from a mains plug, melted into a block of nylon. And like you, a home made plywood form to fit the trimmer's profile.
Bit of a pain taking the batteries out of the holder to charge, but works like a charm . And the extra 2 volts (20 now instead of the original 18) makes an amazing difference. Currently building a charger with BMS so I don't have to do that :-)
Cheers
Pete'.
@@Bristoll170 , ive tried ply and solid timber but i found plastic drainage parts cut to size and shaped with a hot-air gun work better for me.
I use a 110v wall plug and just bend the lugs with a couple pairs of pliers to get the spacing perfect. Just plug it it, sometimes whatever runs backwards if its pitch black out. So just unplug flip if over and away you go.c
Nice, glad to know that you managed to make a connector for these type of battery! I've seen the Parkside ones as we tend to use LIDL supermarkets quite a lot.
Parkside products are available here in a limited way, through eBay, but that's not to say that there aren't people here that buy them. Thank you for the video, Clive.
Very nice and clean, I would have potted the first one with JB weld only because I have a ton of it sitting around the house. I love your ideas.
Just ordered the new Parkside PABSP 20 Li C3 drill with a 4Ah battery and I remembered this video from last year. Will try the script tomorrow. Always nice to be able to use the battery for other useful things instead of it just sitting in the case with the drill between DIY projects.
Yeep in mind that these packs can only provide a signal when they are low and not shut their output off.
@@bigclivedotcom You mean it has to be nearly empty? Then what's the use of having an adapter?
Very good, I made a really rustic version for the ryobi battery using a short piece of pvc pipe with screws on either side for the contacts with the female version of your connectors slid around the screw heads. A rush job but did work!
A note in re suggestions to glue more than one part together: Some of the common 3D printing materials, notably PLA and the ABS family, are attacked by acetone such that they can be solvent-welded with it. Just moisten each face with a brush, and press them together for a moment (and then wait for the solvent to migrate out of course). Seems to make quite a robust joint.
Clever little Idea. I like using tool batteries for different uses. I took a connector out of an old broken tool to use with my ryobi.
When you went "Spade Connectors" at 0:42 I went "OOOOOOOHHHHHH !!!!!!!" I've wanted to fiddle with this stuff and always was hesitant because I didn't think of where to start with the connector pins. I don't know why I didn't think of something like that sooner... I kept thinking card edge connectors, but wasn't sure I wanted to make/have those made for a variety of reasons. Just wasn't thinking of the solution from the right angle. So happy to have seen this video.
Great idea actually. I have used the spade connectors before to use my drill battery in other products. I will have to look at the script and see how I can change to suit. Thanks Clive.
Bosch Professional battery
//Use with two male spade crimps
difference(){
union(){
//main block
cube([59.6,76,10]);
}
//side slides
translate([-1,17,6.2])
cube([61,60,6]);
translate([3,75,-0.1])
cube([1.1,1.1,7]);
translate([55.5,75,-0.1])
cube([1.1,1.1,7]);
translate([4,17,-1])
cube([51.6,60,8]);
//Terminal cutouts
translate([7,1,.5])
cube([6,15,10]);
translate([46.6,1,.5])
cube([6,15,10]);
//terminal slots
translate([9,15.9,1])
cube([2,10,10]);
translate([48.6,15.9,1])
cube([2,10,10]);
//cable slots
translate([8.5,-1,4])
cube([3,10,10]);
translate([48.1,-1,4])
cube([3,10,10]);
//plastic and time saver
translate([-0.1,-0.1,-0.1])
cube([6,10,11]);
translate([53.6,-0.1,-0.1])
cube([8,10,11]);
translate([15,2,1])
cube([29.6,13,10]);
//polarity markings
translate([2,13,8.5])
cube([3,1,2]);
translate([3,12,8.5])
cube([1,3,2]);
translate([54.6,13,8.5])
cube([3,1,2]);
}
Excellent video, Clive. I love disruptive technology projects like these. If only I had a 3D printer.
Very cool idea, I think I can adapt the Parkside one for my Makita 18V packs. To clean up the Ryobi adaptor I would print a top cap having the same footprint, with holes and wells inside to hold the crimped cable ends. Then glue them back to back.
Here's my implementation of your idea!
//ryobi top hot glue assembly
$fn=50;
height=12;
union(){
difference(){
union(){
//main block
cylinder(h=height,d=29);
translate([-14.5,0,0])
cube([29,20.5,height]);
}
//battery recess
translate([0,0,1])
cylinder(h=height,d=27);
translate([-13.5,0,1])
cube([27,19.5,height]);
//terminal slots
translate([-12.5,3.5,-1])
cube([2,7,5]);
translate([10.5,3.5,-1])
cube([2,7,5]);
//polarity window
translate([-7,4,-1])
cube([14,6,5]);
}
//hot glue basin
difference(){
translate([-14,1,0])
cube([28,12,height]);
translate([-14,2,-1])
cube([28,10,height+2]);
}
}
You could probably just print the top bit solid with holes. The holes are small enough that they should bridge with no issue.
I was thinking exactly the same thing. :)
There is a UA-cam channel for someone called Serendipity Sue who has all sorts of Ryobi battery uses. Here is a link to his Ryobi 18V battery basic connector that has higher current capacity than what Clive has in his: ua-cam.com/video/1IQI03h1Svc/v-deo.html
EDIT: the above video refers to this other video to make the part that clips onto the Ryobi 18V battery: ua-cam.com/video/MTZdvhf6cB4/v-deo.html
If you visit the Serendipity Sue UA-cam channel, you will find some Ryobi 40V stuff too.
Excellent, thank you Clive. The Parkside looks like the Australian ALDI garden tool battery. I had designing a 3d print a connector for it so I could use it for “other things”….
Brilliant, love the simplicty and what a great idea to use spade crimps.
I was broke down with a dead truck battery one day out in the middle of nowhere. I used my 20v lithium pack from my Bauer (Harbor Freight) the only battery pack that had a full charge, and set of old leads from a multimeter. Had no expectation for it to work, but was able to jump start my truck with it. This would have been a great little thing to have because the first one you made looks a lot like the battery I used. Also looks a lot like a Milwaukee battery too.
To reliably glue in the spade connectors, putting in some shmoo before putting in the connectors would result in a more rigid connection.
Two-part epoxy would probably be even more resilient.
However, taking care not to put it where it doesn't belong is even more essential in that case.
Given that the alternative is to C&C mill a part at the expense of the energy it took and the material waste of the milling process this is a fantastic idea. Even if you make it out of delrin it's still more expensive than the PTFE filament and whatever power your 3D printer used during the print. It's chuffing brilliant mate.
Using spade connectors is brilliant. I love it.
For the Ryobi, may I suggest you bring out the perimeter wall to make a sort of cup you can fill with glue.
The current bottom touching the bed plate would be printed as bridges with no support.
The new cup will have a crappy bottom, but gets filled with hot glue (tangled in bridge filaments).
I bought one "shame on me", for my Makita BL batteries and use a buck converter to bring the voltage down to 12 volts that I use for ongoing stuff that needs powering. All those batteries that folks keep charged and no way to get to the power. Now you can. Great video btw. Thank you kind sir.
Thank you very much for sharing this, I think this is just what I needed to repurpose my parkside battery with different projects ;)
This is a brilliant design, Clive. It would also be geat to see a larger one that the battery can clip into the same way it would for one of the electric tools. I can see myself using something like this to power a DIY Bluetooth speaker or similar.
I did a useful print last year. It lets me use 18v Makita batteries on my Accubird rivet puller. Made in three pieces because the batteries are wildly different shapes.
I'm not currently useing Parkside, I'm useing Stanley fatmax, but thanks for your video time and help, hat goes off to you, love your videos, thanks Clive keep it up 👌🏻
Nice job.
I had an old Hilka 6volt drill which was powered by 5 "C" sized Ni-Cads,1.5 a/h, which were very poor, what with the memory effect as well.
I bought a sealed rectangular 6v, 4a/h lead acid battery (£8, I think), and fixed it to the top plate of the old battery case having cut off the housing below, because the new battery would not fit in.
It works really well, with the extra power and life between charges, and the retained top plate, with nose of the original battery pack can be used with the original charger.
For the first battery I came across a charger unit that was dead and modified the battery connector similar to yours.
I get battery packs from friends " it's dead " Okay dismantle and use the batteries for Rc cars magic. Keep up the great work clive.
Awesome quick 3D printer project! I suspect that no battery manufacturer would ever object to someone killing their batteries in some other device :-) Milwaukee make a cheap ($25) power bank that is very hack-able. I add an XT60 to mine so I can use my TS100 soldering iron and run my robotics. I love that these quick prints are more adaptable to a custom design!
Not sure what I just watched, but thoroughly enjoyed it.
Excellent Clive - For the Ryobi battery, you could print a separate part that acts as a wall that fits over the terminals and would be held in place with the hot glue. Probably unnecessary, but might look a little neater without having a load of support.
This is exactly what I need, I've 3D printed a ryobi battery receiver for a black & decker chainsaw, but getting decent contact on the terminals has been very difficult.
This is great - thank you! I use the Aldi batteries a lot (printed an adapter to retrofit an old wickes drill that was a 21st birthday present, so had sentimental value) and unfortunately it appears Aldi/manufacturer has purged many of the adaptors previously on thingiverse
Love it. :) Mod tip. first power: Angle spades 90 degress , remove the plastick cover on the spade, and solder it directly to an XT60(XT90 placed in the middle if your adapter with the opening facing the same way your wires are exiting today... solder spades to XT60/XT90. Hotmelt it down and you have an solid mass in the middle with an great XT60/90 outlet.
Ryobi mod idea: Same principle, Angle spade 90 degrees sideways facing the straight side of the battery. Add another jacket with an XT69/90 connector that slides over the adapter you made, where you put the XT connector facing up from the battery. It will again give you an great and solid outlet for differet outlets. The new jacket might also be an USB 2/4 way module integrated into this new jacket. :)
Love your design so far tho. Great start :) Thank you :)
I'm a huge fan of hot glue, I dump it into DB-15 solder cups and similar all the time to keep my deadbug projects from shorting out.
I have something similar for my Ryobi batteries, I use them as field charging batteries for R/C planes and drones. Ryobi batteries are especially convenient, because they have an internal low voltage disconnect while most if not all others put that inside the tool. This is probably so they can be put inside older tools meant for nicad packs. It also simplifies and thus reduces the cost of the bare tools in many cases, further feeding the "printer and ink" model of power tools and batteries.
For the Ryobi battery version, you could print the connector support part as a separate piece that'd get glued on after. Makes it easy to print and still relatively simple.
Mr. Clive. I have had good luck making contacts using solder wick. It is handy to fish through slots in 3d prints and it allows nice sliding connection.
My solution for blade connectors (for laptop batteries at least) are ATO/ATC car fuses. They're solderable so I just chop up the fuse, solder the wire and add some heatshrink tube for insulation. I like using laptop packs since they already include a smart BMS that I can query for capacity and charge state.
Ye are a man of many talents Clive.
I 3D printed connectors for my Bosch batteries. They snap on in a really satisfying way with a loud click. The connectors I made from stainless steel that folded to make a smooth edge. Then I go over to XT-30 connectors which I have plenty of adapters for, including my laptop. My batteries are 100 Wh each which is 3x my laptop so perfect for long excursions.
That's a good idea... Are you just plugging the tool battery direct to the laptop DC input? Is it a 18v tool battery and 19v laptop input?
@@tin2001 Yup pretty much. I suspect that it works well between 15 to 20 volts. Probably even a bit higher but without taking it apart and inspecting the circuit I wouldn't chance on higher voltages. The low end voltage is based on the guess that it probably works as long as the voltage is a few volts over the battery. I should test if it has some under voltage lockout circuit some day. (The battery packs have that which is good though).
But I would not recommend anyone else doing this unless they were pretty sure it wouldn't become fry anything.
I've found using a machinist's deburring tool (dirt cheap and the blade lasts forever on plastic) works amazingly well for removing brims, trimming back elephant's foot, and just general breaking of edges. Since it cuts instead of a abrades, there's no clogging of files or sandpaper, and far less airborne plastic dust.
In the US Ridgid batteries are without question the best for this sort of thing. They come with a lifetime warranty, which they honor with no headaches. Make a phone call and you get a new battery within a week! We all know batteries will die of old age at some point, but they still replace 8 year old batteries just 'cause they got old. No other brand will do this. They are hoping you will forget after 8 years but I keep that number handy! ;) They have very high quality Sony cells inside.
They also have all the protection/control circuitry inside the battery, not the tool, as apparently others have. I have bought a bunch of battery connectors from china-bay, I use these to power so many random things. Before 3D printers I just used some alligator clips...
I am disappointed to find they discontinued the big brick 9AH battery...good thing I got a 6 pack with the warranty. :) I don't think they offer this on AEG batteries outside the US, even though they are the same thing.
thanks for this little adaptor! i was able to make a proper cable to charge an old HP laptop with a parkside battery without just shoving wires into the contacts
Make sure you keep the battery topped up. These ones don't have over discharge protection built in.
You might want to add a passthrough for the thermistor too, depending on what you're using it for. I'm going to make one for Black and Decker to Bauer and it requires it (I was waiting on contact springs which finally arrived). I'm also planning on adding a small usb 5V output module.
thanks Clive, finally a use for my dead parkside vibration-cutting wiggly noisy thing, i will chop off the connector and make something useful :)
Haha I have loads of these Makita/Dewalt batteries from work, for those I don’t/can’t open up for the batteries this will be great! 👍🏻
This would make a great portable power source for a soldering iron like the pinecil.
I plan on tinkering with the Ryobi….
Thanks, Clive!
Another day LIDL was selling 20v soldering iron that uses parkside batteries. I bought one, I think I paid £19.99 or so.
That's part of the reason I did it. The Pinecil also has programmable low voltage shut-off.
Hi Clive, I made one of these for parkside batteries using stacked 5mm plywood, glued and stapled. Added a buck converter to the top and now have a handy little power supply!
Another day I saw someone on youtube making an adapter for the parkside using an old chopping board. It worked.
I had my eye on the Parkside battery for powering an ebike 12v lighting setup but I decided against it because 1 battery didn't have enough capacity and I didn't have space for more than 1.
This is a nice design, much more compact than the Thingiverse one I had intended to use, might have been able to fit 2 batteries if I used this.
Quick tip Clive - many slicers have "elephants foot correction" where you can specify that the first layer is shrunk in xy coords to combat the elephants foot. Prusaslicer has it enabled by default on newer profiles 2.4.0+ afaik
for the Ryobi one, ifyou want to have a way to fix the spade terminals on top, just draw those supports in, and use support material (10%) for the print. Works like a charm
I love that Ryobi hot glue gun. I also purchased the smaller one too.. it heats up quick. Nice not being tethered by a cord.
This is a good start for what I'm thinking of doing. I'd like to take one of these batteries, I have a few from the Rigid brand from Home Depot, and have a belt-mountable power adapter to give me some extra runtime on my VR headset without needing to be plugged into the wall with a 10-foot cord, as I currently do.
Clever idea. I'm in the DeWalt battery ecosystem and I think the same overall topology with the spade crimps would work with its connector too.
I too would use a Dewalt adapter.
The connector and latch look almost like they could be DeWalt clones.
Clive that Parkside battery looks like one for a Black & Decker battery !
i just bought one of these for a makita battery one of the most important things IMO is the locking mechanism would be cool to see you make a full version that's made to be modular
Couple of remarks: the designs on thingiverse often have the goal to be a wall mount for the batt or be part of an adapter, so you want that clip-in action altough it rarely snuggly fits.
Adapters are to be done with caution, as some makers have the battery protection in the tool (Dewalt, Makita) and some have it in the battery (Most others I think). But generally the adapters and mods I do are my middle finger to the tool makers and their battery pricing. You can grid away a plastic rib in the parkside 12V and use it in einhell 12V (common here too).
I am working on an adapter that is very compact an uses folded copper sheet or can be made from pipes to use my dewalt batts in all the chinese Makita-Knock offs.
This is actually a really good idea as the replacement charges for the older 16v range are about £35 and delivery is around £15!!!
So much easier going to have to give this a try
Don't try recharging it through this connector though as the charger needs a control signal when the first cell hits 4.2V.
@@bigclivedotcom you should definitely do a teardown of the battery next!
I take it this is more for using the batteries as an energy source for leds, mini motors etc
I've jumped a car with one of these with 18v Makita lol. Discontent immediately when doing this. Also used it as a backup for my internet router when power went out using a boost converter. Thankfully coax still works even with power outages. Had home internet for 4 hours with that method.
Biltema in Sweden uses the same battery design as that Parkside one for their own brand. Worth noting.
This is exactly what I've looking for. An adapter to use my Parkside battery to power my router during power outages.
Printed in 30 min on my ender 3.
Perfect fit. Great
Since, like most things these days, products are only made by about 4 different factories then manufacturers slap their brands all over it, meaning quite a few batteries are actually compatible with each other or only need minor modifications to the case to allow them to fit, so it's worth searching along the lines "are Ryobi 18v compatible / interchangeable?"
For example, I have a Greenworks mower and I found an article from smartfamilymoney about battery compatibility, it was quite nice of them to do all the work for me figuring out that several batteries from Kobalt, Snapper, Powerworks, etc were all the same and thus I found some Snapper batteries sold as "not working" for just $20, they only needed to be brought up to 3v per cell, so the charger would recognize them and have worked great.
I made a connector for the battery from an old broken flashlight that used the same battery. You can also use the port on a charger if you have an extra one. Also there's this polymer called Insta-Morph that is heat softened and reusable. It can be drilled and tapped, it's very strong and takes minute details. Just warm it up and push it onto the battery with wires in place and you're the nephew of Bob. Or niece
I have previously just stuffed spade connectors into the battery slots. Will be setting up my printer later.
Looking forward to the new Parkside batteries and charger based on 21700 Li-ion batteries.
Yeah, I have to get a set of those, even if just for the cells.
Nice a new battery video ! You rock Clive!
One of the first things I made with my printer I like your file thank you BigClive
thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world!
Thank you so much! I have that exact model of battery (for my very good Lidl/Parkside 3-in-1 cordless drill)
Good idea and not very expensive .Good idea to connect a variable buck boost power supply to them .
For the Ryobi, you could put a rectangle post in the middle with _- +_ and mount the connections to it, which would double as a pull tab.
Some snap-in clips might be a good alternative to hot glue, but if you're printing with a thick layer height they might need some sanding to go in smoothly
This is very entertaining and educational!
Very nice! I'd be using much thicker conductors though unless it was fused down. Those battery packs DON'T hold back when it comes to kicking out current!
A very good Wednesday morning to you sir from Wellington Somerset
For a Ryobi batterys there are two types of pre wired "DIY Power Wheel Adapters" for $10 each that can include the whole battery catch plate, or just enough to push onto the center post contacts. (there are three contacts in the adapter with two wires hooked up)
There is also now an official Ryobi $20 "portable power source". (battery adapter with two USB ports)
Any links to those connectors priced at $10? I have only seen stuff priced higher.
Makes it worth my Patreon many times over, the files. Of course, I would also just fuse it and use for discharge.
Those little Parkside batteries deliver excellent value for money. They are produced by the brand Scheppach, who also produce under their own name.
knowing us makers, ill almost be someone has made modifications that lock the clips into place, i think that because i was mentally modifying your version. this is a great idea for easily to obtain and charge packs. now to figure out a good full mounting system for buck/boost modules.
absolutely inspired Clive.This makes me want to dust of the 3d printer after a shamefully long time
For the Ryobi adapter, consider printing it with a dome shape on the top surface. The overhangs created by the curve shouldn't be so extreme as to require support, and it'd give you room to put wells for the hot glue.
That's pretty clever. I made something similar for Ryobi 40v packs, but I might need to rethink the design...
I also use spade terminals on my DeWalt batteries. The plastic bit will make it even better.
Great idea. I'm going to try to create a similar project for some 8.4 volt batteries salvaged from cable modems.
I could use one of those for a Porter Cable battery. Great idea, thanks. 👍