You my friends have gained a new subscriber! I have a 2WD 1998 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5L myself, and I absolutely loved your tutorial to replace my power steering fluid! Such concise instructions and easy to follow, with this tutorial being no exception! I also love that you're still liking comments years later! Keep up the great work!
Some additional info from my job on a 2001 Mazda B3000 2WD, in case you were thinking they were the same: I have torsion bar suspension. The 13mm bolt for the calipers is a 14mm bolt. The 24mm bolt for the spindle nut is larger than 25mm, the biggest I have in metric. I am not exactly sure the size, but I was able to use a 1-1/16 in 6-point socket due to low torque value.
I installed the new camber kit when I put the new upper control arms in and wanted to know if the square hole on the camber needs to be at the 12:00 position or does it matter to make it easy for the alignment guy.
Gave Thumbs Up But I Got A Question: Dont I need to bleed the brakes or am I missing that? What should I do? Any non-legally binding advice...? Anyone? Either Way Thanks
Thank you for the support! No need to bleed the system when replacing the pads and rotors or shoes and drums. I know there's a few videos out there where they recommend loosing the bleeder screw when pushing the piston back and that is a very bad idea. Just crack the master cylinder reservoir cap to relieve any pressure build up when pushing the piston back and that's it. The only times a system should be bleed is when fluid you're working with the fluid such as replacing the calipers, wheel cylinders, lines, brake fluid flush, etc.
No problem, happy to help and thank you for the support too! I usually try to answer questions once a week depending on my schedule and I have new videos every week too :)
You did not mention anything about the races. Most new rotors come with new races pre installed. Is it ok to put a new wheel bearing into those pre installed races? I've always heard that you are supposed to put in a matched set. What's your thoughts? Thx
Generally this is a very good video and thank you for making it. My only complaint is that you don't show putting the pads on after installing the caliper bracket. On my ranger at least, there is a tab on two of the four pads. Do they go inner, or outer? Hmm
Check out some of my other brake replacement videos. Typically they are the same or very similar. Make sure you have the pad material facing the rotor, pushed fully against the rotor, have the piston fully pushed back into the caliper and it's ready to be reinstalled.
I have a 98 ford ranger that I inherited from my dad and just replaced the upper control arm and lower ball joints. It only has 105,000 miles on it and was not driven hard at all. I thought about replacing the inner and outer tie rods but did not want to put more money into it if not needed. I value your opinion on what you would do at this point and wanted to know how many miles I should expect to get before replacing them. Also I started to install my steering knuckle today and had problems. I put it on the lower ball joint first and then tried to jack up the lower control arm to lift it up to the upper ball joint. It got close but I was still about 2" away from the upper ball joint and the truck was very high compared to the other side and did not want to go any further. How do you get the steering knuckle to go up without the truck wanting to go with it. I do have both sides off with no tires or steering knuckle on either side.
If you have the coil spring front end, then the upper control arms do affect the alignment. I would recommend getting an alignment as you can cause handling issues and excessive wear on the tires. So with that being said, it would be a good idea to install outer tie rods, they're around $20 each. It's peace of mind and you won't have to pay double for an alignment. You can also check if they're bad by pushing a pry bar against the joint or rocking the steering when the wheels are on the ground and watching for play in the joint. The truck shown in the video will be getting new ball joints, upper control arms, and outer tie rods, it only has about 160,000km so around the same mileage. You should be able to jack that steering knuckle into place. Did you purchase the right control arms? There is a few different style apparently between the replaceable or non-replaceable upper ball joints and coil spring or torsion bar front suspension.
OK so you are replacing your outer tie rods which makes sense to spend a little money now and only one alignment. However, is there a reason why you are not replacing the inner tie rods or do they typically last a lot longer. If I put the new outer tie rods on do I simply count how many threads are showing on old one when I install the new one. I know I will have to get an alignment no matter what.
I just installed new lower ball joints on my 98 ranger and have the steering knuckle on the new ball joint stud and have it a little more then snug tight. However, there is about a 3/8" gap between the castle nut and steering knuckle hole where the stud of the ball joint fits in. I know I have to torque it down yet but don't think it will close that much of the gap up even at 100 ft. lbs. So is there suppose to be a small gap there even after torqueing. I thought maybe the stud is tapered and the gap is normal. Just want to make sure before driving.
hey, I don’t know if you will see this but I need to change my front brakes and rotors on my XLT 99 ranger manual in 4wd bit it also runs with the rear wheels. I'm not sure which rotors I need. One has just holes the other one has bolts in it and the middle thing. Which is the right one for mine?
Your best off asking the auto parts store or even going to the dealer and getting a part number. Being a four-wheel-drive, I highly doubt it’s a tapered roller wheel bearing. So you most likely need the rotor that mounts onto the hub, the one with the wheel stud holes.
OK so I have cleaned my floating pins on the brake bracket. Do I put the rubber boot on the pin dry and crimp it into place on the threaded end and just put grease on the other half of the pin or should there be grease inside the rubber boot as well.
Here's a video specifically for sliding pins ua-cam.com/video/oODS9Iel2s4/v-deo.html Just apply a film of grease to the pins, doesn't have to be excessively thick as it'll push out anyway. There isn't a large amount of clearance for the pins anyway. Install the boot on the pin, then push into place on the carrier. No need for more grease inside the boot.
OK So I guess I was overthinking this. I was thinking about keeping as much grease away from the rotor as possible. I was going to slide the rubber boot on to the pin dry and then lube the end of the pin that goes into the hole rendering the boot completely free of grease. But you are saying to lube the pin first and then slide the boot on and then there will be a very small amount of grease inside of boot right.
The boot is intended to be a barrier from any foreign contaminants and expand/contract with the pins. The portion of pin under that boot can still slide in the carrier, therefore it should also have a thin layer of grease as well. As the pins move back and forth, the grease will eventually even out. So yes, there will be a light layer of grease under that boot as well.
Excuse me but why did you not Grease the shaft of the spindle? I just did a set of these and I greased the hell out of the spindle shaft. Please inform me of your reasoning on why you didn't not do the same.
Everyone has their own process, there was a very light amount on the spindle shaft. But I typically like avoiding it, debris can fall on the shaft during assembly and the grease just allows it to stick, more grease makes it harder to spot.
Why the hell does every video of this skip.iver putting the wheel bearings in the rotor? Does the extra metal piece that comes with the bearing just for hammering it in or am I supposed to put the bearing in it and them hammer it in the rotor? This is frustrating
Lol there are NO BOLTS!! literally!! Its just 2 long rubber filled metal "pins" with a small tab that keeps them from backing out, MOST of the time. Had a pin come out while driving and it jamed the caliper between the rim and bracket! truck is a 93, also my 91 (square body) has this design. single piston also
Holy that is a terrible design! I had an 89 truck, but I don't ever remember them having this. Then again that was over 10 years ago lol. I would considering having some special bolts machined for that instead.
You my friends have gained a new subscriber! I have a 2WD 1998 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5L myself, and I absolutely loved your tutorial to replace my power steering fluid! Such concise instructions and easy to follow, with this tutorial being no exception! I also love that you're still liking comments years later! Keep up the great work!
EASY, UNDERSTANDABLE AND CONCISE. THANK YOU FOR THIS TUTORIAL
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback :)
Wow! This is one of the best repair videos I've seen. A++ on video and lighting. A++ on narrative. Leaves no need for questions.
You have saved me $300, thank you
Happy to help!
Some additional info from my job on a 2001 Mazda B3000 2WD, in case you were thinking they were the same:
I have torsion bar suspension.
The 13mm bolt for the calipers is a 14mm bolt.
The 24mm bolt for the spindle nut is larger than 25mm, the biggest I have in metric. I am not exactly sure the size, but I was able to use a 1-1/16 in 6-point socket due to low torque value.
Yeah, the spindle nut on my 2000 Ranger is larger than 24 mm also.
Same:/ bought a 24 specifically for this. Turned out to be a 27 mm for anyone interested.
Needs to update for sure
I'm 4 years late, but thanks! I accidentally wore my breaks down way too far. A little nervous to work on my truck myself, but it's gotta be done
No problem, happy I could help!
If you have a friend that works on cars I definitely suggest having them walk you though it while you do the work so you gain the experience.
Thank you, straight to the point and easy to follow
Glad to help out!
Excellent tutorial, thanks. (Like that razzle dazzle at the end with the ratchet.)
Thank you :)
Extremely well done guide. Thank you.
Thank you for the feedback and glad to help out! Don't forget to subscribe for more Ranger videos ;)
I installed the new camber kit when I put the new upper control arms in and wanted to know if the square hole on the camber needs to be at the 12:00 position or does it matter to make it easy for the alignment guy.
My tire came off on my while driving today and my rotor is toast hopefully this will help
Best video ever thanks
You're welcome!
This beats paying $800 for someone else to do it!! Thanks man
No problem, happy to help! Always a pleasure hearing people save large amounts of money on auto repairs.
Do the floating pins on the brake bracket simply pull straight out and can I use Sil-Glide silicone brake caliber grease to lube them.
Yeah they do, here is a video specifically for that ua-cam.com/video/oODS9Iel2s4/v-deo.html
Excellent! Right down to business.
Thank you for the feedback and don't forget to subscribe for more Ranger videos :)
Do you know if 22-29 foot pounds is the right torque for a 1996? Haynes manual is saying 38 but I think its wrong.
Can u advice on the same topic for a 2011 for ranger 6 cylinder 4.0 2wd.
Gave Thumbs Up But I Got A Question:
Dont I need to bleed the brakes or am I missing that? What should I do? Any non-legally binding
advice...? Anyone?
Either Way Thanks
Thank you for the support! No need to bleed the system when replacing the pads and rotors or shoes and drums. I know there's a few videos out there where they recommend loosing the bleeder screw when pushing the piston back and that is a very bad idea. Just crack the master cylinder reservoir cap to relieve any pressure build up when pushing the piston back and that's it. The only times a system should be bleed is when fluid you're working with the fluid such as replacing the calipers, wheel cylinders, lines, brake fluid flush, etc.
@@4DIYers Damn it Brother!! Dude you answered my question in like under 5 minutes! This vids a few years old, too.
I just subscribed. Thanks Boss.
No problem, happy to help and thank you for the support too! I usually try to answer questions once a week depending on my schedule and I have new videos every week too :)
You did not mention anything about the races. Most new rotors come with new races pre installed. Is it ok to put a new wheel bearing into those pre installed races? I've always heard that you are supposed to put in a matched set. What's your thoughts? Thx
There is a little metal prong on one brake pad. How is this oriented?
Came looking for bolt torque for the brake calliper carrier. It seems you didn't cover this. ???
Great video. What lubricant do you recommend using for the slide pins?
Thank you. I've been happy with the stuff shown in the video, it's made by Permatex and is a synthetic brake grease #09125.
Nice i was gonna do the rotors too but the owner only wanted a pad slap.
Generally this is a very good video and thank you for making it. My only complaint is that you don't show putting the pads on after installing the caliper bracket. On my ranger at least, there is a tab on two of the four pads. Do they go inner, or outer? Hmm
My question also.
I need to see you place the pads into the caliper. I'm really struggling.
Check out some of my other brake replacement videos. Typically they are the same or very similar. Make sure you have the pad material facing the rotor, pushed fully against the rotor, have the piston fully pushed back into the caliper and it's ready to be reinstalled.
What about the slotted ABS sensor plate on the rotor? That has to be on the new rotor or the Anti Lock brakes will work.
Yes that is correct. Not all Rangers were equipped with front ABS brakes, someone had actually installed the wrong rotors on this truck.
Can u show a link of what that slot looks like, my abs light is on
thank you my friend
Thank you too!
I have a 98 ford ranger that I inherited from my dad and just replaced the upper control arm and lower ball joints. It only has 105,000 miles on it and was not driven hard at all. I thought about replacing the inner and outer tie rods but did not want to put more money into it if not needed. I value your opinion on what you would do at this point and wanted to know how many miles I should expect to get before replacing them. Also I started to install my steering knuckle today and had problems. I put it on the lower ball joint first and then tried to jack up the lower control arm to lift it up to the upper ball joint. It got close but I was still about 2" away from the upper ball joint and the truck was very high compared to the other side and did not want to go any further. How do you get the steering knuckle to go up without the truck wanting to go with it. I do have both sides off with no tires or steering knuckle on either side.
If you have the coil spring front end, then the upper control arms do affect the alignment. I would recommend getting an alignment as you can cause handling issues and excessive wear on the tires. So with that being said, it would be a good idea to install outer tie rods, they're around $20 each. It's peace of mind and you won't have to pay double for an alignment. You can also check if they're bad by pushing a pry bar against the joint or rocking the steering when the wheels are on the ground and watching for play in the joint. The truck shown in the video will be getting new ball joints, upper control arms, and outer tie rods, it only has about 160,000km so around the same mileage. You should be able to jack that steering knuckle into place. Did you purchase the right control arms? There is a few different style apparently between the replaceable or non-replaceable upper ball joints and coil spring or torsion bar front suspension.
OK so you are replacing your outer tie rods which makes sense to spend a little money now and only one alignment. However, is there a reason why you are not replacing the inner tie rods or do they typically last a lot longer. If I put the new outer tie rods on do I simply count how many threads are showing on old one when I install the new one. I know I will have to get an alignment no matter what.
Wait 'master cylinder'? That's what that one is? What fluid should I use to fill it back up to filled level?
Nice vid, thx!
+juha Thank you!
+4DIYers You forgot to tell them how many foot pounds to torque the bolt back on
cr1m1nalspeed I didn't mention it in the video, but I have included it in the video description ;)
4DIYers We're not here to read lol jk
LMAO... Times have certainly changed from reading those thick manuals.
I just installed new lower ball joints on my 98 ranger and have the steering knuckle on the new ball joint stud and have it a little more then snug tight. However, there is about a 3/8" gap between the castle nut and steering knuckle hole where the stud of the ball joint fits in. I know I have to torque it down yet but don't think it will close that much of the gap up even at 100 ft. lbs. So is there suppose to be a small gap there even after torqueing. I thought maybe the stud is tapered and the gap is normal. Just want to make sure before driving.
Hello. I just replaced my brakes and rotors on my 96 2wd along with bearings but I have vibration after that
Re tighten the axle nut with a torque wrench and make sure to back it off a 1/16 of a turn until the rotor spins with no dragging.
hey, I don’t know if you will see this but I need to change my front brakes and rotors on my XLT 99 ranger manual in 4wd bit it also runs with the rear wheels. I'm not sure which rotors I need. One has just holes the other one has bolts in it and the middle thing. Which is the right one for mine?
It's a 4.0 v6
Your best off asking the auto parts store or even going to the dealer and getting a part number. Being a four-wheel-drive, I highly doubt it’s a tapered roller wheel bearing. So you most likely need the rotor that mounts onto the hub, the one with the wheel stud holes.
I love my ranger but I hate working on this more than any vehicle, made extra difficult and painful
Thorough, I like it.
Thank you!
a c4 Do you have any video on brake pad replacement on a Ford ranger 4WD 2013-2016
fleet tech Should be quite similar, but rotor replacement will be different.
fleet tech I would be very interested also to find out how to change brake pads on a 2013 PX ford ranger 4x4
OK so I have cleaned my floating pins on the brake bracket. Do I put the rubber boot on the pin dry and crimp it into place on the threaded end and just put grease on the other half of the pin or should there be grease inside the rubber boot as well.
Here's a video specifically for sliding pins ua-cam.com/video/oODS9Iel2s4/v-deo.html Just apply a film of grease to the pins, doesn't have to be excessively thick as it'll push out anyway. There isn't a large amount of clearance for the pins anyway. Install the boot on the pin, then push into place on the carrier. No need for more grease inside the boot.
So the boots stay completely dry no grease
Just a light layer like the rest of the pin. Do not fill the boot with grease, it'll just push out.
OK So I guess I was overthinking this. I was thinking about keeping as much grease away from the rotor as possible. I was going to slide the rubber boot on to the pin dry and then lube the end of the pin that goes into the hole rendering the boot completely free of grease. But you are saying to lube the pin first and then slide the boot on and then there will be a very small amount of grease inside of boot right.
The boot is intended to be a barrier from any foreign contaminants and expand/contract with the pins. The portion of pin under that boot can still slide in the carrier, therefore it should also have a thin layer of grease as well. As the pins move back and forth, the grease will eventually even out. So yes, there will be a light layer of grease under that boot as well.
Which rotors would I suggest...seen thisCentric Parts 120.65082 Premium Brake Rotor with E-Coating
My lower control arm is grinding on the rotor after replacement
Did you install the inner bearing race?
Do you know if this is similar/the same for a 2004 Ford Ranger 2WD??
Yes it should be.
My dealership charged me 100$ for each rotor. Should rear ones not be cheaper?
Does anyone know what size rotors he used?? Asking for a friend
Excuse me but why did you not Grease the shaft of the spindle?
I just did a set of these and I greased the hell out of the spindle shaft.
Please inform me of your reasoning on why you didn't not do the same.
Everyone has their own process, there was a very light amount on the spindle shaft. But I typically like avoiding it, debris can fall on the shaft during assembly and the grease just allows it to stick, more grease makes it harder to spot.
What was the torque setting for the rotor?
Here is the torquing procedure for the wheel bearing ua-cam.com/video/iY-KsCo-rI0/v-deo.html
Wait so what like actually holds the rotor on just that one nut at 25 ft lbs??
Yes, it's also locked with a cotter pin. It's a lot stronger than it seems.
You didn't show how to take the abs ring off and transfer to new rotor.
You can't transfer it. Someone had installed the wrong rotors on this truck and the abs ring is an option when ordering new rotors.
Those rings are EASILY damaged. If you have ABS,but sure to get rotors with rings installed!!!!!
Why the hell does every video of this skip.iver putting the wheel bearings in the rotor? Does the extra metal piece that comes with the bearing just for hammering it in or am I supposed to put the bearing in it and them hammer it in the rotor? This is frustrating
Agreed
It’s not a 24mm nut.
My ranger has no caliper bolts! horrible design
Sure it wasn't rusted heads? The opposite side of this truck actually had that issue, I had to use vise grips to remove the bolt.
Lol there are NO BOLTS!! literally!! Its just 2 long rubber filled metal "pins" with a small tab that keeps them from backing out, MOST of the time. Had a pin come out while driving and it jamed the caliper between the rim and bracket! truck is a 93, also my 91 (square body) has this design. single piston also
Holy that is a terrible design! I had an 89 truck, but I don't ever remember them having this. Then again that was over 10 years ago lol. I would considering having some special bolts machined for that instead.