I did this with less efforts than what you did. I used the same tool for valves springs compressor. I didn't lift the engine, i didn't remove the cam shaft chain gear, nor the front covers. I just removed the chain tensioners, removed it from cam shaft gear, and took all the cam shaft as one assembly. I just marked the chain position on the cam shaft. And used rope inside the cylinder and rotate the engine to compress it against the valves to hold it up. The last cylinder PIA to replace but it's doable.
Faris, that's genius if it really works! How did you get the Bank 1 tensioner out? So all you did was to mark the chain and sprocket tooth locations and then removed the tensioners and pulled the chain off the sprokets?
This is most useful video I've seen to remove the N62 valve cover, and I hope it was there last summer! It looks 100 times easier after removing the cables to the ECU.
I gotta do this on my 04 645 this summer. Any suggestions as to the best parts kit to make this job the easiest? I'm a diy mechanic and never did an internal engine job like this before, but i am capable. I can't afford to hire it out. It's not worth it.
Hello, I replaced the stem seal valve on my 2009 BMW 4.8 engine, I put the engine on time, I checked it with the timing tool kit, I turned it twice and I checked again and it was fine, then I put everything back together and tried to start it but it only stayed as if there was no gas and it gave me the code 2E6F
@@nathanielhuntley7875 I already solved the code 2E6F, after searching and searching, the scanner marked something from bank 2, I disassembled everything again, I checked the time with the tool to synchronize the time and I realized that from bank 1 the tool entered correctly on (exhaust and intake) but I put the tool on bench 2 and if it came in but only sat on one side and the other was about 1/16 to go down, I released the CAM phases again and adjusted until I had the tool that would sit on the block well without having to push it to sit, arm it back and it turned on the first time
@@ibrahimdelic8958 I needed to disassemble the head covers again and check the time of bank 1, the time tools entered by themselves without having to hit (bank one fine) but bank two the time tool, they entered but from one side if left flush with it I blocked the head as it should be but the other side was slightly raised, and I corrected that the tools of time have to enter and remain flush on their own without having to hit for them to enter, (then I armed myself back and turned on the first time) correct that and it will work (these were the codes that it gave me, 2E6F and P3497 cylinder system deactivation (bank 2) only one code but each one with a different scanner
Excellent, no BS video, thank you Chris !!!! I like your idea of jacking up the side of the engine you're working on. Does anyone think jacking the side might also make it a bit easier to get the valve covers off? I'm getting ready to start the valve stem seal job on my 2007 550i this weekend.
That’s exactly like how I did the passenger side timing. I just kept tensioner in bc you can’t even get special tool in on that side. But for valve seals I didn’t have air so I used a rope down the spark plug holes to hold valves up. Worked like a charm
1. How many PSI for the air line? 2. Remove only one spark plug and plugin the airline, the rest of spark plugs are still in, or doesn't matter, right?
Merci pour ce tuto, je suis entrain de faire cette opération sur ma BMW 650I V8 N62. J'ai pour ma part sorti le moteur sinon les valves sont inaccessibles. Bonne chance à moi pour ne pas faire tomber de petite pièce dans le moteur :)
There is a way to verify the stem seal had been replaced? I bought my 07 4.8i last summer. Don't see any blue smoke, need to add 1L oil for the whole year. Once I open the valve cover, is there a way to verify?
Update I just completed my N63 valve seals it was pain but well worth it. Hat off to you sir not using keeper tool to put back valve keepers. If I was doing this job I would invest money again to use AGA tools. They work very well 👍🏻 This is great video.
I did this with less efforts than what you did. I used the same tool for valves springs compressor. I didn't lift the engine, i didn't remove the cam shaft chain gear, nor the front covers. I just removed the chain tensioners, removed it from cam shaft gear, and took all the cam shaft as one assembly. I just marked the chain position on the cam shaft. And used rope inside the cylinder and rotate the engine to compress it against the valves to hold it up. The last cylinder PIA to replace but it's doable.
Hey, where abouts are you located? i'd like to get the same done on my 650i.
Faris, that's genius if it really works! How did you get the Bank 1 tensioner out? So all you did was to mark the chain and sprocket tooth locations and then removed the tensioners and pulled the chain off the sprokets?
This is most useful video I've seen to remove the N62 valve cover, and I hope it was there last summer! It looks 100 times easier after removing the cables to the ECU.
I gotta do this on my 04 645 this summer. Any suggestions as to the best parts kit to make this job the easiest? I'm a diy mechanic and never did an internal engine job like this before, but i am capable. I can't afford to hire it out. It's not worth it.
Hello, I replaced the stem seal valve on my 2009 BMW 4.8 engine, I put the engine on time, I checked it with the timing tool kit, I turned it twice and I checked again and it was fine, then I put everything back together and tried to start it but it only stayed as if there was no gas and it gave me the code 2E6F
The battery might need to be registered again.
@@nathanielhuntley7875 I already solved the code 2E6F, after searching and searching, the scanner marked something from bank 2, I disassembled everything again, I checked the time with the tool to synchronize the time and I realized that from bank 1 the tool entered correctly on (exhaust and intake) but I put the tool on bench 2 and if it came in but only sat on one side and the other was about 1/16 to go down, I released the CAM phases again and adjusted until I had the tool that would sit on the block well without having to push it to sit, arm it back and it turned on the first time
@@fabianparra3545i did the same work and it won’t start having same issue don’t know what to do im done with it
@@ibrahimdelic8958 I needed to disassemble the head covers again and check the time of bank 1, the time tools entered by themselves without having to hit (bank one fine) but bank two the time tool, they entered but from one side if left flush with it I blocked the head as it should be but the other side was slightly raised, and I corrected that the tools of time have to enter and remain flush on their own without having to hit for them to enter, (then I armed myself back and turned on the first time) correct that and it will work (these were the codes that it gave me, 2E6F and P3497 cylinder system deactivation (bank 2) only one code but each one with a different scanner
How can i find the compressor spring tool?
Excellent, no BS video, thank you Chris !!!!
I like your idea of jacking up the side of the engine you're working on.
Does anyone think jacking the side might also make it a bit easier to get the valve covers off?
I'm getting ready to start the valve stem seal job on my 2007 550i this weekend.
If you do all this work put new valve springs in also. PAC makes the best valve springs.
That’s exactly like how I did the passenger side timing. I just kept tensioner in bc you can’t even get special tool in on that side. But for valve seals I didn’t have air so I used a rope down the spark plug holes to hold valves up. Worked like a charm
Nylon rope? Or hemp? LOL. Pretty smart idea actually.
@@eddiefury i believe so. One of those yellow ones. Heat the end up before putting in Engine
How did you get the chain off the sprockets without removing the Bank 1 tensioner? Did it really work, or did it mess up the timing
Wow. That is attention to detail and thanks for explaining it all. This engine makes my N53 seem desirable!!
1. How many PSI for the air line? 2. Remove only one spark plug and plugin the airline, the rest of spark plugs are still in, or doesn't matter, right?
What's the otc# for that tool? Tia
Merci pour ce tuto, je suis entrain de faire cette opération sur ma BMW 650I V8 N62. J'ai pour ma part sorti le moteur sinon les valves sont inaccessibles.
Bonne chance à moi pour ne pas faire tomber de petite pièce dans le moteur :)
I will try pull the engine too. Did you loose anything under the car to move the engine?
There is a way to verify the stem seal had been replaced? I bought my 07 4.8i last summer. Don't see any blue smoke, need to add 1L oil for the whole year. Once I open the valve cover, is there a way to verify?
There is no way to verify that. 1l for the year is ok, nothing to worry about. If it does not smoke, its fine and i would not touch the thing :)
Update I just completed my N63 valve seals it was pain but well worth it. Hat off to you sir not using keeper tool
to put back valve keepers. If I was doing this job I would invest money again to use AGA tools. They work very well 👍🏻
This is great video.
if you plan on only doing this only once would you still recommend the aga tool? its over $1000 everywhere I've seen
This was beyond useful thanks 💪🏽
How much would you charge to do mines?
Holy not Toyota Batman, kudos!
Great video I have to do N63
This will help 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
was able to rent the valve stem seal kits from looking up Tony’s tool rental on google they saved me a ton of money and were very convenient!
Where you located and can you do mine?
where are you located
Thank you so much for your so professional skills
Where are you located
Good work!!!
What did you have your air pressure set at?
Buen trabajo anigo