My brake cable broke. While trying to find what length of cable to buy to replace it I came across this video and decided to upgrade the brakes. I followed your advice and got these brakes and I'm very happy I did. They are so much better than the factory ones. The tutorial was excellent. Thank you for the video and the recommendation for the brakes!
Absolutely one of the best tutorials I have seen. You saved me so much time and frustration. I would have never have thought about bending the rotor. Great video! Thanks so much! Outstanding!
I enjoy your extreme attention to detail and have passed your link on for reversing Lectric handlebars to one or two groups b/c it's such a big improvement in comfort for many. As I'm watching this video at 24:15+/- talking about the housing nearly bumping the spokes, someone in one of the forums mentioned a spacer costing $28 to prevent this rubbing.
I'm in the middle of completing this modification. First of all, great video! Second, the 2000mm brake cable that is suggested is too short for my 2.0xp rear brake by at least 2 inches. I found a 2300mm cable in the Amazon store from the company that was suggested. It will be here in a few days... we'll see how it works. Lastly, I used small washers on the bolts that hold down the rotor between the front rotor and wheel to avoid interference between the caliper and spokes.
I have an XP 2.0 on order and will most likely do this brake upgrade, thank you very much for the excellent tutorial! But now that I know about the rotor/pad clearance issue, I will try making a rotor shim first.
Thanks for watching, a thin shim might help! Just have to get the size right. I have a feeling that spacing tolerance won't be the same for every fork.
Good job! I have a friend who is on the very short side, and was uncomfortable with the long arm reach to the handlebars. Switching the stem reduced the reach by a good 6 inches and made all the difference. Thanks!!
I'm still researching to decide which folding ebike is best for me. At 5' 1" brands/models are limited. I tested a used Rad Mini a couple of days ago and like other T bar handlebars, I feel like I'm maxed out on the reach. Testing a 3.0 premium tomorrow morning to see if the overall size is too tall. I suspect no matter what I get I will be making handlebar and seat post mods. Also, brakes if I don't get one with hydraulics. What stem did your friend switch to?
My XP2.0 ST was manufactured in July 2022. The Juin Hydraulic Calipers units would definitely rub on the spokes. So it was a no-go for me. Loved the instructional video. My bike would need a different (thinner) manufacturer or larger diameter rotor.
I really liked your freewheel exchange video. This one is also great. I'm sure there are a million videos comparing hydraulic versus mechanical disc brakes. Maybe there is a spacer to position the new rotor a little further from the spokes so the hydraulic caliper can be installed further away too.
That was a great tutorial. Except I don't feel right about bending the rotor. How about installing spacers (washers) behind the screws when swapping the rotors?
@@PedalWithPower, your instructions including the specific tools was good to know. So many nuts can be overtorqued or bolts with Locktite that regularly used tools just strip the nuts and bolts!
Normally I would say I don't think you're supposed to bend the disc rotor like that but then again, I used a grinder to shave off metal from the brake caliper to stop the spoke rubbing.
Great job on the video. Very detailed with great lighting. I just purchased an Lectric XP 3.0. and want to ask you if these Juin M1 will work. Thank you.
Chris, it's been 4 months. Can you update us on how well the brakes are doing? M1 are 4x the cost of the x-tech or zoom most people use in videos. But reading reviews many of those leak! Brakes are important! The mechanical ones when adjusted might not be as smooth but do stop well. If I upgrade I would pay up for quality.
For the front wheel: why not use the old rotor as spacer? I mean, cut the old rotor in such a way that becomes a big washer with six holes and use this one behind the new rotor pushing the new one towards the break? This cutting can be done using a Dremel. Could another alternative be to install a 180mm rotor and the respective mount for the front Caliper?
If I’m not mistaken, the bracket on the rear caliper is the exact same as the one in the JuinTech box. They both have the same markings F180 and R160. The existing bracket on the bike is marked on the bottom instead of on the side. Please advise. Also I would clean the rotors with denatured alcohol or isopropyl if you have it. This is to make sure that there is no residue on them.
Thanks for the heads up Greg. Sometimes when I add links, the supply may vary. So I try to add more than one, in case they are out of stock. Just get whichever are the best deal.
Having mismatched rotors is a deal breaker for me. To bad there’s not a way to easily modify the rear caliper mount lower to enable full pad contact with the rotor provided. Maybe Tektro or TRP will design a more efficient option.
Hello Chris, thanks for making all your videos related to the Lectric XP! I have the 3.0 version with 180 mm rotors on front and rear... will the same Juinteks in your link to Amazon work with my new XP? Thanks for your feedback!
I’ve ordered a ST2.0 and a XP2.0, they don’t have the same brake, the ST has Tektro and the XP has Zoom…not sure if it’s just a supply chain issue or different quality? I would like to have more braking power on the XP2.0, so modifying to the hydraulic caliper would be a great start but what about installing a big brake kit with 203 mm rotors instead of 160mm? Have you ever done that?
Thank you for your videos!! Do you feel the kickstand on the xB 2.0 step through is sufficient or is there an upgrade to the kickstand that you recommend? Also did you happen to do a video or have any recommendations for how to best charge the battery for extending the life of the battery? In other words should it be charged after each use even if it's only used a little while three times a week or so? I understand the best way to store the battery for a long-term storage but more curious about daily charging or letting it run down to 20 or 30% before we plug it back in. Thanks for any insight and thanks again for your videos they are really helpful!
Why not just install complete hydraulic brakes? You still have a lot of problems when you leave the original mechanical cables in such as cable stretch, cables snapping, cables fouling (when dirty rain water gets in the inner tube and rust it). I brought another ebike a few months ago and it came with hydraulic brakes. I haven't adjusted it at all, it just works beautifully all the time, no more fiddling or adjusting at all. It stops much better than mechanical brakes. I realized how much I hate mechanical brakes after getting the new bike that I ordered a complete tektro hydraulic ebike brake kit and will replace the original lectric brakes setup when it arrives.
After you have installed the new brake set-up why would you not "Burn" in the brake pads ? Basically allowing the brake pads to wear into the rotors very evenly so they would not squeal upon minor brake applications ... That would be applying the brake lever slightly as you ride around , be it pedalling or using the motor ..... As long as you do not "Glaze " the surface of the rotors. Or heat them up in anyway !
I changed out the rear brake unit on my Lectric 2.0 without difficulty. The front brake was another matter. I was unable to adjust the caliper unit position to completely eliminate all spoke contact (still contacts one or two). Thinking of ever so slightly elongating the (2) mounting slots on the unit to allow it to be positioned outwards just a little more outward to clear the spokes. Bad idea?
Does that only work on that bike you're working on? Or would that work on any electric bike? I'm talking about the hydraulic brake setup you have ordered.
Hey Chris, I need to replace my front brake cable and housing and was wondering , What size cable thickness do I need and what length do I need. Are all cables the same diameter ? Just want to make sure I get the correct ones for my XP 2.0. Any help would be great
are there any brakes that you would recommend besides the stock brakes lecttic step thru choices with? the stock choice brakes only last 500 for me, but id like something that lasts 800-1000 without changing to hydraulics. thanks! i was able to fix my PAS problem by reconnecting the cable in the controller, shortly after it stopped working. should i reconnect it? should i wrap in electrical tape so this doesn’t happen?
Hi envikka, if you are talking about brake pads, you can use metallic brake pads -amzn.to/3uhYFJX - and these will last longer. However they can might make a lot of noise. As far as the controller issue, if electric tape helps, then totally go for it! If it's a controller issue, then contact Lectric and have them send you a new controller.
Bending the rotor makes me cringe. The proper method to reposition the rotor is to shim behind the rotor. There are even shims available specifically for this purpose.
Good question. The reason for bending the rotor is that the caliper needs to be positioned away from the wheel so that the spokes won't hit it. With the caliper positioned like this it rubs the rotor. So I just bent the rotor over a little, thus repositioning the rotor. This would still apply to the original rotor. This caliper is just wider than the original and the spacing is tight. But it works, you don't need to bend the rotor very much.
I am a big guy and my bike stops really well with the stock brakes. I can stop much faster than is safe. Aside from blinging your bike and bragging rights whats the point of adding "hydraulic" brakes?
Because your brakes were out so fast I weigh 210 lb and I've gone 300 miles I live a lot of hills and they have worn out number two if you don't switch over to a hydraulic brakes that closes on both sides you will meet up and Warp
@@jasonjensen2779 Same here, that's why I'm here. Why re install same cheap brakes that wear out after 250 miles? Rear brake is almost completely worn out already. Nothing but hills around here
Someone has hacked your site and tried to offer a giveaway bike by having one pay for shipping. I have contacted the UA-cam administration over this scam and alerting you as well.
@@PedalWithPower These people are purporting to be you and saying that you have a free giveaway and that you are to text back to the number that they left in your "reply to comments". I did so and they told me that you were giving away a free Lectric 20. That gave me pause, the model number, but they also asked for a screen shot of the notification in Replies that I received. They did a great job of impersonating you, but asked me to pay for the shipping. It had to be expedited shipping to the tune of $159.00. They gave me a choice of UPS or FedEx and said it had to be expedited because you were going to call me tomorrow live from your UA-cam channel and announce me as a winner. The other requirement was that I had to do an opening of box video to send you to put on your channel. When I inquired as to how I was going to pay FedEX, they told me that they would use a shipping agent and it ended up being an email address. I immediately called Lectric to see if they had a shipment scheduled for me via you and they did not. They also said they knew of you, but that you had not placed an order on my behalf. I kept digging to determine their legitimacy and they kept saying that if I did not feel comfortable, I could forfeit the gift to another subscriber. Finally, when I pulled to plug on this scam, the called me dumb for not accepting the free gift that I had received. I have contacted directly UA-cam about this scam as well as forwarded this to the FTC. You may be contacted by YT. Be prepared.
What would you say are the best brakes money can buy for the lectric 3.0? I have experience with zoom brakes with escooters but they tend to require a lot of maintenance
I just installed these on my XP 3.0 with the OE 180mm rotors. Front rotors I used 1mm spacer but still had to lightly bend the rotor to accommodate the caliper space.
@@Leo.SKDXL05 Hey Leo, I have the Lectric 3.0 also and am planning on this same upgrade. I saw your comment about needing a 1 mm spacer? Could you provide some more detail about this issue. I really appreciate your feedback before I do my install. Many thanks!
My brake cable broke. While trying to find what length of cable to buy to replace it I came across this video and decided to upgrade the brakes. I followed your advice and got these brakes and I'm very happy I did. They are so much better than the factory ones. The tutorial was excellent. Thank you for the video and the recommendation for the brakes!
Absolutely one of the best tutorials I have seen. You saved me so much time and frustration. I would have never have thought about bending the rotor. Great video! Thanks so much! Outstanding!
I enjoy your extreme attention to detail and have passed your link on for reversing Lectric handlebars to one or two groups b/c it's such a big improvement in comfort for many. As I'm watching this video at 24:15+/- talking about the housing nearly bumping the spokes, someone in one of the forums mentioned a spacer costing $28 to prevent this rubbing.
Link to spacer?
Thanks Jay. I didn't need any spacer. I'm not sure what spacer you would use
@@PedalWithPower If you left the original rotor in the back, wouldn't it be better to leave the original in the front too?
I'm in the middle of completing this modification. First of all, great video! Second, the 2000mm brake cable that is suggested is too short for my 2.0xp rear brake by at least 2 inches. I found a 2300mm cable in the Amazon store from the company that was suggested. It will be here in a few days... we'll see how it works. Lastly, I used small washers on the bolts that hold down the rotor between the front rotor and wheel to avoid interference between the caliper and spokes.
I have an XP 2.0 on order and will most likely do this brake upgrade, thank you very much for the excellent tutorial! But now that I know about the rotor/pad clearance issue, I will try making a rotor shim first.
Thanks for watching, a thin shim might help! Just have to get the size right. I have a feeling that spacing tolerance won't be the same for every fork.
Good job! I have a friend who is on the very short side, and was uncomfortable with the long arm reach to the handlebars. Switching the stem reduced the reach by a good 6 inches and made all the difference. Thanks!!
Glad to hear it!
I'm still researching to decide which folding ebike is best for me. At 5' 1" brands/models are limited. I tested a used Rad Mini a couple of days ago and like other T bar handlebars, I feel like I'm maxed out on the reach. Testing a 3.0 premium tomorrow morning to see if the overall size is too tall. I suspect no matter what I get I will be making handlebar and seat post mods. Also, brakes if I don't get one with hydraulics. What stem did your friend switch to?
My XP2.0 ST was manufactured in July 2022. The Juin Hydraulic Calipers units would definitely rub on the spokes. So it was a no-go for me. Loved the instructional video. My bike would need a different (thinner) manufacturer or larger diameter rotor.
I hear you Mike, the spokes rubbing was an issue for me too. Most hydraulic calipers are on the wide side.
Just the best videos.
Cheers Chris!
Thanks Jerry, always appreciated 👍
Great video.
I'm ready to change my brakes out with confidence.
Thank you sir
I really liked your freewheel exchange video. This one is also great. I'm sure there are a million videos comparing hydraulic versus mechanical disc brakes. Maybe there is a spacer to position the new rotor a little further from the spokes so the hydraulic caliper can be installed further away too.
That was a great tutorial. Except I don't feel right about bending the rotor. How about installing spacers (washers) behind the screws when swapping the rotors?
I appreciate the Amazon links. Possibly, the brakes are cheaper when they have Prime Day in about 2 weeks.
Very good point! They may be. It's worth checking out 👍
@@PedalWithPower, your instructions including the specific tools was good to know. So many nuts can be overtorqued or bolts with Locktite that regularly used tools just strip the nuts and bolts!
Kick ass bro 👍
Thanks brother!
Normally I would say I don't think you're supposed to bend the disc rotor like that but then again, I used a grinder to shave off metal from the brake caliper to stop the spoke rubbing.
Great video as usual thank you.AKA GUMBALL BREATH
Great job on the video. Very detailed with great lighting. I just purchased an Lectric XP 3.0. and want to ask you if these Juin M1 will work. Thank you.
Chris, it's been 4 months. Can you update us on how well the brakes are doing? M1 are 4x the cost of the x-tech or zoom most people use in videos. But reading reviews many of those leak! Brakes are important! The mechanical ones when adjusted might not be as smooth but do stop well. If I upgrade I would pay up for quality.
The Juin Tech have worked great. Don't go cheap on brakes
@@PedalWithPower why not go full hydraulic?
For the front wheel: why not use the old rotor as spacer? I mean, cut the old rotor in such a way that becomes a big washer with six holes and use this one behind the new rotor pushing the new one towards the break? This cutting can be done using a Dremel. Could another alternative be to install a 180mm rotor and the respective mount for the front Caliper?
If I’m not mistaken, the bracket on the rear caliper is the exact same as the one in the JuinTech box. They both have the same markings F180 and R160. The existing bracket on the bike is marked on the bottom instead of on the side. Please advise. Also I would clean the rotors with denatured alcohol or isopropyl if you have it. This is to make sure that there is no residue on them.
Presently, the silver wire caps are $4.59 under the colored caps link for 100 and almost $7 for 100 in your first Amazon link.
Thanks for the heads up Greg. Sometimes when I add links, the supply may vary. So I try to add more than one, in case they are out of stock. Just get whichever are the best deal.
I use heat shrink on the cable end instead of a metal crimp. If I want to remove caliper again, I don’t have to cut the cable.
Excellent video clip. I like it
Hi Chris. Another great video. When it's time to replace brake pads on the Juin, what would you recommend? Thanks!
Having mismatched rotors is a deal breaker for me. To bad there’s not a way to easily modify the rear caliper mount lower to enable full pad contact with the rotor provided. Maybe Tektro or TRP will design a more efficient option.
You have a video to bleed them?
Chris, great video. Do you know if it is possible to mod the front wheel to a quick release?
One question, are the brakes you put there one for the front and one for the rear or are the two that you see for the front tire?
I want to add new handles, which ones do you recommend?
Hello Chris, thanks for making all your videos related to the Lectric XP! I have the 3.0 version with 180 mm rotors on front and rear... will the same Juinteks in your link to Amazon work with my new XP? Thanks for your feedback!
EXCELLEN VIDEO. QUESTION, WILL THIS WORK ON THE XP 1.0 AS WELL?
great video, can I just add the M1 brakes without replacing the brake cables? It sounds like I can also leave the rotors on my current XP 2.0?
I’ve ordered a ST2.0 and a XP2.0, they don’t have the same brake, the ST has Tektro and the XP has Zoom…not sure if it’s just a supply chain issue or different quality?
I would like to have more braking power on the XP2.0, so modifying to the hydraulic caliper would be a great start but what about installing a big brake kit with 203 mm rotors instead of 160mm? Have you ever done that?
Thank you for your videos!! Do you feel the kickstand on the xB 2.0 step through is sufficient or is there an upgrade to the kickstand that you recommend? Also did you happen to do a video or have any recommendations for how to best charge the battery for extending the life of the battery? In other words should it be charged after each use even if it's only used a little while three times a week or so? I understand the best way to store the battery for a long-term storage but more curious about daily charging or letting it run down to 20 or 30% before we plug it back in. Thanks for any insight and thanks again for your videos they are really helpful!
Why not just install complete hydraulic brakes? You still have a lot of problems when you leave the original mechanical cables in such as cable stretch, cables snapping, cables fouling (when dirty rain water gets in the inner tube and rust it). I brought another ebike a few months ago and it came with hydraulic brakes. I haven't adjusted it at all, it just works beautifully all the time, no more fiddling or adjusting at all. It stops much better than mechanical brakes. I realized how much I hate mechanical brakes after getting the new bike that I ordered a complete tektro hydraulic ebike brake kit and will replace the original lectric brakes setup when it arrives.
I'm assuming you got the Tektro HD-E350 kit? I'm thinking about doing the same, could you give an update on how it worked out on your Lectric?
After you have installed the new brake set-up why would you not "Burn" in the brake pads ?
Basically allowing the brake pads to wear into the rotors very evenly so they would not squeal upon minor brake applications ...
That would be applying the brake lever slightly as you ride around , be it pedalling or using the motor .....
As long as you do not "Glaze " the surface of the rotors. Or heat them up in anyway !
Yes, bedding in new brakes is always important
Instead of bending the rotor out for the front to get it away from the spokes wouldn't it be better to just use washers as spacers?
I changed out the rear brake unit on my Lectric 2.0 without difficulty. The front brake was another matter. I was unable to adjust the caliper unit position to completely eliminate all spoke contact (still contacts one or two). Thinking of ever so slightly elongating the (2) mounting slots on the unit to allow it to be positioned outwards just a little more outward to clear the spokes. Bad idea?
Does that only work on that bike you're working on? Or would that work on any electric bike? I'm talking about the hydraulic brake setup you have ordered.
Can we shim the front disc so we don't have to bend it?
Are cables really hydraulic? Or is it mechanical disc brakes?
would these calipers work with 203mm rotors?
Hey Chris, I need to replace my front brake cable and housing and was wondering , What size cable thickness do I need and what length do I need. Are all cables the same diameter ? Just want to make sure I get the correct ones for my XP 2.0. Any help would be great
are there any brakes that you would recommend besides the stock brakes lecttic step thru choices with? the stock choice brakes only last 500 for me, but id like something that lasts 800-1000 without changing to hydraulics. thanks!
i was able to fix my PAS problem by reconnecting the cable in the controller, shortly after it stopped working. should i reconnect it? should i wrap in electrical tape so this doesn’t happen?
Hi envikka, if you are talking about brake pads, you can use metallic brake pads -amzn.to/3uhYFJX - and these will last longer. However they can might make a lot of noise.
As far as the controller issue, if electric tape helps, then totally go for it! If it's a controller issue, then contact Lectric and have them send you a new controller.
@@PedalWithPower Thanks! i dont have their warranty, but would they send it free or?
@@envikka Typically, wear and tear stuff like brake pads are not a warranty issue. Just a part of general maintenance
@@PedalWithPower sorry! i meant the controller. i assume I would have to pay for that?
@@envikka I would reach out to Lectric for a controller issue. I've heard of many folks getting a replacement controller because of a bad one.
Can’t you just add some thin washers under the rotor instead of bending it?
Bending the rotor makes me cringe. The proper method to reposition the rotor is to shim behind the rotor. There are even shims available specifically for this purpose.
i wonder if the original from rotor would of worked with no need to bend...is it orig thinner than after market?
Good question. The reason for bending the rotor is that the caliper needs to be positioned away from the wheel so that the spokes won't hit it. With the caliper positioned like this it rubs the rotor. So I just bent the rotor over a little, thus repositioning the rotor.
This would still apply to the original rotor. This caliper is just wider than the original and the spacing is tight. But it works, you don't need to bend the rotor very much.
Couldn’t you add a spacer rather than bend the rotor?
I have the lines on both ends. I never fold my bike. My Ancheer 26" has Teflon lined cables to hydro brakes. Very good video😎👌
Why would you bend the disc? Just use a rotor spacer¡
I am a big guy and my bike stops really well with the stock brakes. I can stop much faster than is safe. Aside from blinging your bike and bragging rights whats the point of adding "hydraulic" brakes?
You about nailed it
Because your brakes were out so fast I weigh 210 lb and I've gone 300 miles I live a lot of hills and they have worn out number two if you don't switch over to a hydraulic brakes that closes on both sides you will meet up and Warp
@@jasonjensen2779 Same here, that's why I'm here. Why re install same cheap brakes that wear out after 250 miles? Rear brake is almost completely worn out already. Nothing but hills around here
Chris, /great
Someone has hacked your site and tried to offer a giveaway bike by having one pay for shipping. I have contacted the UA-cam administration over this scam and alerting you as well.
Thanks for letting me know. I just reported it too and blocked them 👍
@@PedalWithPower These people are purporting to be you and saying that you have a free giveaway and that you are to text back to the number that they left in your "reply to comments". I did so and they told me that you were giving away a free Lectric 20. That gave me pause, the model number, but they also asked for a screen shot of the notification in Replies that I received. They did a great job of impersonating you, but asked me to pay for the shipping. It had to be expedited shipping to the tune of $159.00. They gave me a choice of UPS or FedEx and said it had to be expedited because you were going to call me tomorrow live from your UA-cam channel and announce me as a winner. The other requirement was that I had to do an opening of box video to send you to put on your channel. When I inquired as to how I was going to pay FedEX, they told me that they would use a shipping agent and it ended up being an email address. I immediately called Lectric to see if they had a shipment scheduled for me via you and they did not. They also said they knew of you, but that you had not placed an order on my behalf. I kept digging to determine their legitimacy and they kept saying that if I did not feel comfortable, I could forfeit the gift to another subscriber. Finally, when I pulled to plug on this scam, the called me dumb for not accepting the free gift that I had received. I have contacted directly UA-cam about this scam as well as forwarded this to the FTC. You may be contacted by YT. Be prepared.
I’m lazy can I just pay you to put them on.😅
What would you say are the best brakes money can buy for the lectric 3.0? I have experience with zoom brakes with escooters but they tend to require a lot of maintenance
Will this work on a 3.0?
I just installed these on my XP 3.0 with the OE 180mm rotors. Front rotors I used 1mm spacer but still had to lightly bend the rotor to accommodate the caliper space.
@@Leo.SKDXL05 Hey Leo, I have the Lectric 3.0 also and am planning on this same upgrade. I saw your comment about needing a 1 mm spacer? Could you provide some more detail about this issue. I really appreciate your feedback before I do my install. Many thanks!