The Jimmy Diresta Bandsaw Restoration, Part 5: The Battle of the Stuck Wheel Shaft - I WIN!
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Diresta Bandsaw Restoration -Part 5: The Battle of the Stuck Wheel Shaft - I WIN!
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The immovable object meets the irresistible Rucker.
Only one outcome is possible.
Well done Keith.
use your letter punch to indicate "left hand thread" on the hub. In a hundred years the next person (or AI robot) to fix this will be very appreciative.
Or use S for sinistro. Yes I have seen this. One of the benefits of a classical for metal worker.
Don't gas fittings have a groove around the hex to indicate left-hand threads?
Spelling it out is no help if the next being that services this is an alien from Planet Bxrftle. :-) You really need to take the long view.
It already has L stamped on the face, see 24:48
@@mayshack What makes you think we will still be using brake rotors in 100 years?
Seriously that would be very sad.
@@mayshack Not a problem. But I do really hope we are not. Friction
brakes just toss the energy out window.
Seriously given the work it takes to put these old machine tools right I sure hope it ends up in somebody's shop or a museum.
“I’ve gone up one size on the drill bit”
You and I have very different drill bit sets.
Indeed true 😄
I am jealous of his bits too. I'm one size up to 1/2".
I now have drill bit envy...
Drill bit envy here as well.. 😀
I have a HAND drill that takes tapered shank drill bits .. it is HUGE .. I have bits for it 1/2" to 1" by 32nd's , and a couple chucks too.
For everyone who wonders about the shallow taper:
The taper is there to make sure that the shaft an wheel will fit every time without complicated fitting process. Otherwise the manufacturer has to hit very tight tolerances to ensure no wobble and roundness/balance. A taper angle is easier to hit every time as a diameter. A little bit oversize/undersized in production is no problem.
The band-saw was most likely delivered in pieces and assembled in place. The taper ensures a perfect fit every time. This was also the reason to add a left hand thread. If the Machine was assembled in the factory a simple cross pin would have been enough to hold everything together. But with an on place assembly it's not a easy task to drill and ream a cross pin. So thread an nut was much more convenient.
Insightful...
I was thinking the thing might be threaded.
Thanks for your post.
Exactly right, and if the installer did not tighten the hub enough, the first time it caught in the work the hub tightened itself. Those early machinists, engineers and mechanics made the industrial revolution work.
Very good analysis. Although I never would have guessed this was a tapered fit it makes perfect sense for the reasons you stated.
Ding Ding Ding! The winner and still - champeen, Keith The Teeth Rucker and his bandsaw/drill combo!
You never know why you need a giant radial drill until you really need one.
Yes, Adam Booth would be proud.
And Keith's radial drill is the light duty model.
Any time you make a mistake and learn from it, it stops being a mistake and becomes a lesson. A good lesson and an excellent solution.
Edison commented along the way: "I know a thousand ways to NOT make a light bulb!"
@@tomtke7351, we’ll, at least he had a sense of humor when he said that, Lol
You will have to get the shaft out of the belt pulley too. I usually don’t drill all the way through, gives you something to knock against. Once you relieve the internal stresses it’s a piece of cake.
Incredible!! Do I need a radial drill🤔
Check out the amazing giant scale work Cutting Edge Engineering does on his DRO radial drill down under. Outstanding, amusing and heart warming videos on giant equipment and machinery.
Any question like that ends with a yes. An emphatic yes 🤣
No, just a horizontal mill. A shop I used to work at did paper machine roll repair. Rolls were typically 2' to 4' dia x 30' long with stub shafts each end. Shafts were around 2" to 6" dia with an interference fit of about .001" per inch of dia. So a 6" shaft would be .006" larger than the bore. The normal removal process for maybe a 6" shaft was to cut it off to the hub then bore a pair of 3" holes on 2-7/8" centers that overlapped in the center and left 1/8" of material near the bore wall. This made a hollow "8" shaped bore in the shaft. The uneven wall shape would collapse enough to relieve the interference fit. The piece would just about fall out. The work was done on a big G&L horizontal mill with spade bits. Putting new shafts in and finish machining is another story.
Question: Do I need *tool name*.
Answer literally 100% of the time: Obviously yes.
Yes! Yes you do!
Now you know when going to press out the other one have to start heating from the backside first for best chance of success.
A porta-band is one of the handiest tools ever made. Mine isn't battery powered. It's a Porter Cable that I have had for over 30 years and it's had a hard life, but it still works good.
Be happy about that. I started looking into buying a new one recently and they are all 85% plastic now. I'd rather buy an old used one.
Left hand threads get you every time.
Hi Keith! Great video! You did it! Hard work pays off! I also love the fact that you never gave up! Awesome job! Take care!
Love the Carlton action!
Need more of that in the future.
Cheers
Where I worked for many years I had to drill out a lot of shafts and you all most never get then to drill exactly in the center.
Always good to put one in the win list. Feel free to paint a tiny shaft with a circle slash threw it on the radial drill with honor sir.
That big radial drill is a great tool for a project like that shaft. Have had to drill out many parts that don't want to cooperate. You did win in the end.
So, what WAS that hole for? Just to drive future machinists crazy?
I always rely on the actual shaft rotation's direction to determine RH or LH thread.
What a beautiful drill press! This might be the best suited job that Keith has used this radial arm drill press for, it’s exactly what this machine was meant to do. Keith said he wins, yea, like that was ever in doubt! Nice job, looking forward to seeing the rest of this project.
Band saw not drill press
@@smashyrashy, Actually I never cared much for that bandsaw, there are others that are nicer and have more options such as self feeding and blade welders like some of the Doall saws out there. But I really enjoy the content of working on and restoring old equipment. So my original post still stands, I really like that drill press, it’s a perfect size and is in great shape. I wish I had one like it.
I got a solid chuckle out of your thumbnail for this one, Keith. "I WIN." 😂
Well done! Fascinating to see machines made 120+ years ago using many of the same methods we use today.
One thing you didn't mention, what was the little hole that was drilled into the shaft for? Did you have any ideas, it didn't seem to have a purpose?
The other shaft might be RH threads... since one shaft drives it's wheel and the other is driven by the wheel, thus to induce self-tightening the thread direction shifts. This is why on Bicycles with threaded bottom bracket (crank spindle) cups, the LH side is RH threaded and vice versa, yet why on oldschool threaded tandem/downhill rear hubs the RH side (freewheel gears) is RH threaded -while the LH side (drag brake) has LH threads.- Better check the threads if you can before you wrench on it!
Edit: My final analogy is wrong... Both sides of such hubs have the same thread direction RH... for the same reason I was trying to illustrate! Unlike a drive cog (which powers forward motion, a brake resists forward motion (like a non-ideal idler bearing), the self tightening reverses. But since the side/rotation flips (depending on which side of the wheel you're looking from), the flips cancel eathother out, hence why both sides of a such a hub are RH threaded. And in the case of the saw, since the side/direction did not flip (but one shaft drives while the other is an idler), the directions in theory should flip.
While it's worth a check, with the pulley driving the shaft and the shaft driving the wheel, I'd expect that the pulley nut is also left hand thread. That way any slip tightens. I think I have it right but could be wrong. For instance. a bench grinder will have left hand treads on one side but right on the other. It has to be that way because power comes from the middle.
The other should be LH too. Looking at the wheels from the nut side of the hub, both wheels are turning clockwise so both LH threads will tighten the nut.
@@josephcitizen4195 Correct. Assuming the retaining nuts are on the same side of the machine, which I have never seen a bandsaw that wasn't, each wheel has the same torque-force applied in the same rotational direction. In this case: clockwise INTO the nut. Assuming the shaft slips, the clockwise rotation of the shaft imparts a counter-clockwise force against the thread direction of the nut causing itself to screw INTO the nut, or in other words, the nut to self-tighten.
@@mikekellam365 See the edit I just made to my comment... I botched the analogy and I think a lot of us missed my point.
The second shaft appears to be a live axle idler... so the idler pulley is driving the axle against the drag of the bearing, which is the exact opposite of the drive pulley which is being driven by the axle against the drag of the saw band and what's being cut. Since the rotation and nut sides are identical, the thread direction to self-tighten flips from LH to RH.
For modern saws this isn't an issue since usually the idler pulley uses a dead axle with bearings in the pulley itself... not a live axle with external bearings. In such cases the nut isn't used to hold a press fit (and in fact, overtightening will kill the bearings), so thread direction doesn't matter and the nuts either are locknuts, castle nuts (with a cotter pin), and/or have keyed washers behind them.
If you examine the thread very carefully you can easily tell if it’s left or right hand.
I ain't got no giant radial drill.... I would have covered up that bitter end of the shaft with some of that putty stuff you use for making babbit bearings to insulate it, and then packed the shaft in dry ice for a few hours and kissed the hub with a rosebud... pretty sure the heat differential would have done the trick.
Even though this one is left hand thread, i would check very carefully that the other is not right hand.
The other should be LH too. Looking at the wheels from the nut side of the hub, both wheels are turning clockwise so both LH threads will tighten the nut.
If one were turning clockwise and the other counterclockwise, like on some heavy truck axles, you would be correct. I learned that the expensive way.
@@josephcitizen4195 My thinking is that one shaft will be driven by the motor, the other shaft will be driven by the blade going around the wheel.
Doesn't hurt to check anyway.
@@sparkyprojects "Doesn't hurt to check anyway."
100% correct. No downside to checking it out.
Actually this was the driven wheel? Or is that big "pully" looking thing a counter balance? If all this is a the case he would need to look at putting a different thread when he makes the new one? As it will be driven on the bottom wheel? Or I think that's what he said?
@@warrenholmar1129 The one he was taking apart has the flatbelt pulley on the otherr end of the shaft, so would be driven by the motor/engine.
I NEVER doubted your success Keith ! lol
for civilised viewers at 6:40 that measurement equates to 2 and a bit bananas
I’ll bet you bless that gantry crane every time you use it.
If it was electric driven it would have been so easy to use but mechanical gives a good exercise
@@Frank-Thoresen Mechanical: no cords, no batterys.
@@JimConnelley And more precise than electric, from experience.
Just a suggestion, my father taught me to not drill all the way through a shaft you want to push out. Leave a bottom that is just deeper then the hub that way you can easily punch it out or press it out without damaging the bore. Great video love watching your projects.
This is exactly how it should be done (leave the opposite end in place to drive the punch against). Driving (or pressing) against the opposite end has the effect of "stretching" the remaining slug, which in turn slightly reduces its diameter, causing it to lose its grip on the bore. I honestly sighed in disbelief when Keith did not use this technique and explain the benefit of leaving a hammering/pressing section in place instead of drilling completely through. But he still won and I do give credit for that.
@@larrywalker7759 but first ya gotta know it is a taper.
@@cadewey6181 Actually, it applies to straight shafts as well. The only time you would need to know if if was a taper would be if there was a possibility you were trying to move it against the taper. Of course Keith had already determined the shaft was larger on the side corresponding to the direction he wanted it to move in, and that pretty much proved he was moving it with the taper.
Having personally destroyed several things trying to take them apart I can properly appreciate your win getting this shaft removed without damage. Congratulations on a successful operation. Thanks for the video.
So what was the small hole? An air hole to let the taper fit better without an air bubble ?
Keith thank you for making the videos. I personally learn so much from you thank you again
My Shop instructor back in High School called those long twirling chips “Devils Hair”. Why? Just touch one and you will find out. Break them off before they get you.
Well I just want to say thanks! I was one of the ones who selfishly requested some radial arm drill action. Most of us have no capability to drill massive 2” holes like that and yeah, it was super fun to watch! That drill press pushed through there like it was nothing! Glad it worked out!
"It came out easy" says the guy with a half-million-dollar machine shop in his back yard. Keith, you kill me sometimes.
Hi Keith:
When it gets too tough for everybody else, its getting just right for Keith! .....Way to go!
Any guesses as to what the small holes were used for??
Best Wishes
Gary
Keith brings us armchair mechanics an insight into methods and designs of the past. I watched this shaft and hub separation with interest because I couldn't predict how it was assembled. I was voting for an unusual method of keying or pinning. I began to lean towards just a taper fit after Keith confirmed the shaft diameter variance on each side of the wheel hub. Keith has some fun toys. Few of us hobbyists can justify a radial drill or has the shop space to accommodate this class of machine. I cringed when Keith chose to drill the final pass with only .010" wall thickness margin. Fortunately he didn't destroy the hub, but he did damage it. His radial drill is an impressive machine, but drilling with that setup pretty much guaranteed failure. Fortunately he had expanding taper to compensate.
Each of us has made similar poor choices when we just "don't know" what we will encounter. Sometimes we score a win and sometimes we suffer regret. This choice brought back the memory of a fight I had removing an OEM specific hydraulic cylinder from a one-of-a-kind critical milling machine in our shop. The repair was a simple rod seal leak, but access to the cylinder was extremely restricted. I spent hours removing the rod end but knowing full well that the threads were increasingly galling in the process. Limited access forced me eventually to shamefully hold the free spinning rod with a pipe wrench as I fought the increasing galling resistance with the rod end nut. I won the battle, but trashed a nearly 30 year old chromed rod surface with the pipe wrench teeth. Production demands required immediate repairs. We had no in house capacity to spray weld and regrind the rod and lead times to replace the cylinder were likely 6 months. I made the rod damage repairs with JB Weld or possibly an industrial product equivalent. The cheesey rod repair lasted many years and is likely still lasting. I retired in 2017 and cannot easily validate.
What was deeply humiliating after finally getting the problematic rod nut off was that it was locked in place with a set screw against the rod threads. The cylinder had run around-the-clock production for decades without failure. Its location warranted no PM and nearly 30 years of filth, funk, extremely tight service access, and OEM paint obscured the presence of the set screw. I was anticipating an "ahah" moment of a revealed pin in Keith's repair that brought deep regret for the oversight. Fortunately for Keith and his customer this was a win!
Mechanical design is an evolving dynamic. Mechanical assembly and application improvement changes over time. I was trying to explain vehicle wheel bearing design employing tapered roller bearings to a 13 year old grandson last night. He has grown up in the age of modern wheel bearing packs. My verbal description caused him some puzzlement.
The armchair reporting on why this taper assembly was employed revealed some very interesting suggestions. I like some of them, but we will likely miss guess. The engineers that designed it and employed it aren't around to correct us.
Our shop owned 2 MAS radial drill presses of the same class as Keith's. After using one of these has often made me dream of some day having my own. Kudos to Keith for owning it, owning tooling and knowing how to adequately run it!
When I saw the square nuts holding the wooden part to the spokeswas not allighned, I thought of Dave Engel of Engels coach shop allways clocking the bolts he tighten.
Love that radial drill, one awesome piece of equipment there
Glad you were able to play with those large drill bits!
Very well done by the master.......
I saw the giant wheel and my thought was - Engels Coach Shop doesn’t usually post this early?? But, Vintage Machinery is sit as enjoyable.
I'm on a phone and that was my first thought of my tiny picture as well.
Last resort would be to mig around the inside of the drilled out shaft, that would draw the metal and with luck the part would just fall out on its own.
This really shows the importance of that Carlson drill. The only other way you could have done this is on a VERY big lathe.
“I win” yea. We all win. So impressed.
Well done Keith - and very interesting about the LH thread. My Dad had a ‘66 Chrysler and I remember him changing over to snow tires in the driveway and busting a wheel stud off (I think on the driver’s side - but I was just a kid). He found that the studs on that side of the car had LH threads while the ones on the other side were right handed.
There ya go - a company answering a question that nobody had asked.
Chrysler did that on most cars for a long time, and yes, the left side is the one with the LH studs. This is still common on large truck and bus tires. Often (but not always) the end of the stud will have an L or R stamped in the end on wheel studs.
At 17 years old I learned that on grandpa and grandma's 1955 Plymouth Belvadere. Dad was around, so no busted lugs, but a lifetime lesson there.
These wheels are on the same side of the press (or car if you want to look at it that way) they should have the same LH thread.
I also made the LH/RH mistake on a truck axle at work one day. Learning the hard way is sometimes the best way. haha
Back in the day (1950's) Oldsmobiles also had LH threads on one side. Dad showed me that during the tire changing lesson.
We had an old ‘66 Dodge Polara that we used to run around the 100 acres my Dad bought as a wood lot that I learned about left hand threads on.
After figuring I’d learned enough trying to remove the lug nuts my Dad pointed out the L stamped on the studs and explained that that was the way it was done with the thinking it would prevent them from loosening as you drove.
I guess physics must have gotten an upgrade because they stopped doing it that way. 😂🤣
My 1966 Cub Cadet 122 had a stuck center pin in the front axle. I didn't even try to get it out, I took it to a local machine shop where the machinist had to drill the pin out. He then drilled the axle oversize and bushed it with brass the installed a grease fitting so it wouldn't seize again. I think he had the same smile as Keith when that pin finally came out.
this was a wheelie boring video
Great title, Keith! Congratulations!
Great Job Keith, You may want to check the key in the arm elevation screw, Looks like it's getting loose. It was moving a little bit when you were bringing the arm down @20:17.
Ding dong great work
With such a slight taper it was probably designed and manufactured for the shaft to never be removed from the wheel without destruction. Maybe Inversely to instint, the heavier the taper is, the ultimately easier it is to separate. Perhaps when the shaft and wheel were joined in manufacture, the hub was also preheated for a near permanent bond. It is doubtful that trying to turn the nut the wrong way, even to stripping the thread, after it had been set in place for more than a hundred years, would have been the main cause of the shaft still binding to the wheel against a 30 ton press. It was always going to be a b@$$er to separate with some destruction required.
Shows the ingenuity of people over 100 years ago.
Knowing about the taper and the left hand thread, this might have come apart easier 90 years ago using a gear puller.
@@alandaters8547 As the shaft never had any keyway or key to prevent rotation of the hub against the shaft, I very much doubt that any ordinary gear would have ever been capable of separating shaft and hub once assembled in the factory.
@@agomodern Sometimes one can wonder if considering the ordinary everyday common man, that as a species we have actually advanced or maybe we have gone backward. There are of course now as always brilliant people who have created brilliant things, but these are the elite of our species, and not the general populace. If these elite and their knowledge were suddenly lost, would the mankind of today survive or recover any better or any worse than some other time in the past.
In times past people like Keith would have been considered general knowledgeable and experienced tradesmen, maybe a little above the average, but definitely not unique or irreplaceable. But in today's world, how many others are readily available that could easily step into his shoes if such a position became available.
@@trevorkrause7220 Right, and today we need a functioning power grid to open a can of beans.
Instead of using that 2" drill bit, could you not have swapped it for a boring head, so you could tweak the set-up, to get it centred for boring?
I wouldn't want to battle with the shaft, I heard he's one mean mother....
Shut your mouth!
@@T_Hoog Then we can dig it.
it was a good plan, it worked out as planned. good work, liked it!
*- KEITH, have you ever tried using diesel starting fluid (ether) to cool a bored out piece so that it shrinks and drops out of a fitting more easily ? ? ?*
*- Blowing compressed air inside to make the starting fluid evaporate fast to better cool the metal fast helps.*
*- Acetone with it high rate of evaporation will work, too, or even Isopropyl rubbing alcohol, both with assisted compressed air evaporation will work, too.*
I asked a seasoned mechanic, what is you're secret? He responded persistence.
Carlton radial drill: Finally! A worthy opponent!
... love these 'fight to the death' struggles! ... (especially when you can pick the winner before hand)
So what’s the story with the hole? Is it blind or can you now see straight through?
Hi Keith I really enjoy your channel. I noticed a big letter "L" in the axle shaft when you stopped drilling and then another ""L" on the hub. Is that for left hand threads or is it the left side of the wheel
At what time (in the video) do you see those big letter "L"s ? I checked both times that you described and found 21:53 but I cannot imagine why they would have stamped that on the inside of the taper. I cannot find what you mean about an "L" on the shaft itself.
Check 24:14 - it is stamped on the face. Good catch! I think you're right
Thanks to your catch, looking carefully there maybe be 2 "L"s, about 90 degrees (4 spokes) apart.
@@johncoops6897 when Keith finished drilling out the shaft the camera was looking down at the piece left over. Where the drill bit cut through to the wall there was a capital “L” on the wall
@@johncoops6897 also.. ther was a capital L on the hub
Keith, I never tire of watching you work, and those two words " I Win!" says everything I need to know! Can I start calling you Uncle Keith?
Nice work, but if you had not drilled all the way through the shaft you would have had something to hit against
Taper-fits can be a bit of annoyance. I remember detatching a bronze propeller from a stainless steel shaft on a traditional type of boat from Sweden. I tensioned the propeller as far as I dared to, (a very hard and strong tensioning), useing a modifyed gear-puller. No action. Then I heated the propeller with a Propane-torch, up to perhaps 200°C. No action. I then re-tensioned the screw of the gear-puller and smacked the screw with a substantial blow from a hammer... Action :)
The ring in the ears... lasted for five minutes at least... Like something from the movie: "The Ringer of Notre Dame" :)
It came off beatifully though, so I could work forward in servicing the boat properly by extracting the propeller shaft, modify it (shorten), and install a so called "Aqua-Drive" with advanced axle-joints and soft engine paws. Greatly reducing noice and vibrations. An extremely effective modification. Also, I installed a different, way more advanced propeller-shaft seal, called "Black Jack", made out of rubber only, water-lubricated against the axle + grease-lubricated and water-sealing lips from Volvo Penta.
No leakage of oil into the bottom / tramson or keel of the hull any more, from the sealing device. The former called "köl-svin" in Swedish: Keel-Swine
in English :)
Now one could actually sit in the back-cabin, without hearing-protection, just hearing a soft humming noice from the engine and the waves splashing sound against the hull.
No clegg or grime in the tramson / keel anymore either.
So, what is the presumably dead-end hole on the inside of the hub for?
To run "chart speed" you need flood cooling. LOL....I learned this the hard way....too
I'll confess that I know next to nothing about what you're doing. My dad was an apprentice machinist at White Motor Company in Cleveland, Ohio before WW2. He was drafted in '42 and eventually wound up working on, among other things, the very trucks he had been helping to build, just behind the front lines. After the war he went back to White and studied engineering at night on the GI Bill. In '66 he got a job offer from Lithonia Lighting in Conyers, Georgia, doing what he'd been doing in Cleveland for half again as much pay in a place with a lower cost of living. That's why I came south a week shy of my 15th birthday and despite a couple 1.5 or 2 year's sojourns elsewhere I've always come back to Georgia's piedmont. You are doing what my dad loved to do. Your accent is music to my ears. Your attitude mirrors his very closely. You have a new sub. I ain't gonna do nothing but admire your skill and, perhaps, learn something.
Very good feeling to see the inside of that hub with no significant damage. I was asking myself,
" Keith why do you even have a radial drill anyway?" Fun to watch this one - kinda drives home why it's so cool to have a nicely equipped machine shop!
The possibilities where the metal planer are concerned are interesting. Someone Named Acheson has reworked some Bridgeport tables on their sizeable metal planer.
*QUESTION= since large hunks of steel or cast iron are so dang expensive, could a guy clamp down a piece of wood to check an angled setup on the planer to check ballpark angle?
Maybe the indicator could tell us the same thing thing? Cool video.
The Acheson's planer is super tuned, with an air powered tool lift on the reverse stroke. He's also a master of tool sharpening. When working cast iron, he takes neat shavings, not chips or dust.
thanks for this video (mistery solved ;))
Just remember when you look back on this video for dimensions . Be sure to like and subscribe. Lol. The devil made me say that. 😆 🤣😅
Great video Keith.
Hey Keith, can you give some details on that gantry. Did you fabricate it? Or did you buy it? If so what did you pay for it? Thank you
Thank you! My love for mechanical learning has been a love since I can remember. A machine working the way it was intended to? Is like music to my ears. Watching this is show, and Almost any good Video, On Machining and machines working in Unisys, is very relaxing to my mind. Good job.
Nice work Keith. Best of the Holiday Season to you and those whom help you. Anxious to see the new shaft being machined.
Keith, this is something you may already know but I'll throw it out there. One person you may have as a resource on the replacing of the wooden wheels on the saw is Dave Engels of Engels Coach Shop. He certainly is a resource for possibly supplying the wood and almost definitely bending it.
Dang Keith! You got medieval on that thing!
Instead of tapering the shaft by 1/100th thousand why not bore the center to a continuous diameter? Do you sharpen your own drill bits? If so, have you or will you do a video on that? It is an instructional pleasure watching you work through an issue! Thank you.
Looks like you got your ears lowered son!! Sorry for the southern inflection but I find myself talking like you when I watch you.. iam a northern guy. Wisconsin to be exact..always love and learn from your videos.. my guess it a taper of some sort oe threaded shaft.
Smell of success … combination of metal and cutting oil! Portable band saw surely made short work of that shaft. Is there anything fancy/challenging about the shaft where it runs through the pulley?
You have a highly customized Redbull can as a souvenir for your effort
You gotta love a left hand thread. I was just a kid doing a brake job on my fathers VW Dasher. It was probably 1977 or so there abouts. The front brake caliper had a left hand thread banjo bolt on the break line into the caliper. Like a typical kid I thought I knew everything so I continued tightening the banjo bolt while believing I was removing a really tight prick of a bolt. Finally it snapped it off in the caliper. I went to the parts store looking for a replacement bolt and now the caliper because I had beaten the caliper to death trying to remove the threaded section of the bolt. Back then the guy behind the counter had vast knowledg and pointed out the groove in the hex designating a left hand thread. Did I feel like a dumdass buying a new break caliper and bolt. Not long after that I went to a local trade high school and graduated as machinist through the tool and die program. I love the videos on this channel they remind me of the time before computers were all the rage. When welding a bandsaw blade was a necessary skill. Thanks for sharing your shop with UA-cam
Keith, one way you can work with a stuck shaft like that is to leave a stub on the bottom side, outside of the hub, then leave the hole blind or with a substantial shoulder with which to drive the shaft out: the principle being that pulling a shaft tries to shrink the diameter, and pressing or driving a whole shaft tries to expand or mushroom the shaft. In other words, Drill the shaft from the top, then press or knock the shaft out from the top.
I learned this replacing BMW valve guides and driving them out undrilled didn't work -- they galled the hole.
Congratulations Keith! About the top wheel, I would suggest not to assume it is the same. The bottom wheel is the driven wheel, transferring torque. The top wheel is an idler wheel, really no reason to have left hand nut or tapered shaft there. Double check and be careful.
Good Job! I would of given you a thumbs up, but since U-Tube has taken away the dislike, no sense in leaving anything.
Well, IF you don't narrate the entire process, you might have actually hit the correct hole concentrically.
Awesome video, as always. If it gets to where you need to drill out the other wheel, try a few hammer blows before you go to the biggest drill. It might just break lose from all the heat of drilling and reduce the chance of hitting the hub.
Keith it came out easily because you had a radial drill and all those large twist drills 2" Twist drill $150.00 £131.00
“The witless destroy what they don't understand.”
― Loretta Chase, Dukes Prefer Blondes
Nice job sir, same way in our shop, it either gives or breaks😉😂😂😂😂
If I built me a shop a radal arm drill would be a machine that I would have.They are the best machine for drilling holes,
For the love of machinery, great work
Check the oil level in your drill press, Keith. From my view of the sight glass, it looks like it might be a little low.
It shows the level just barely under the marks. What is the issue?
What messes people up sometimes with bicycles is the ones with a one piece crank. Everything on the left side of the crank is left hand thread.
The hub cone, locknut and even the pedal. All to keep them from working loose .
You are a very knowledgeable guy I will say. I've seen you do alot of different work..always inspired me to spread my wings and to keep learning.
Radial Drill... to the rescue !
Good job. I admire your knowledge, persistence and skill at solving this problem. I'm enjoying this series.
24:41 the way that washer before the nut was kinda made it obvious from the start. And because it's such a shallow taper, any amount of crud/rust would've made it nearly impossible to remove.
IMO, you did the only thing, that was sensible, possible to remove it. Prolly could've worked with a torch, but that's a lot work and gasses.
I absolutely love the way you make a plan and just go for it!
Way to go.
Threaded into the hub??? What you talking about?the pokes just slide into hub holes. No reason at all for them to be threaded.
I have worked with left hand threads for some time now. I don't belive you neither had too much heat on the nut or too much torque trying to remove it. There is a good possibility that it was damaged from the original installation
Just started watching the video, but I'm going to guess the wheel spun on the shaft and galled/solid state welded itself to the shaft.