Remove the upper radiator support, overflow reservoir, passenger side cooling fan, serpentine belt. disconnect the 2 ac lines, power supply plug and 4 bolts holding the compressor, then lift the compressor out. Oh, pop the grill out so the radiator and condenser can go forward a couple inches. I just did this this morning in about an hour and 1/2.
@@factotumted Pretty much what I said except there are 2 10mm bolts that are a bitch to get to where the top mounting mounting brackets for the radiator attach on each side when you look down.
Just did mine without removing the radiator and bumper just loosened the radiator and removed the crossbar. Harder to work around but a lot less time and fluid
Hi George thanks for the video. I have a new compressor from amazon for my 2005 CRV. I got stuck at the point where I took the bumper and plastics off. I see now that I have to remove the condenser and radiator to do this job properly. Thank you for taking the time to produce this helpful video i appreciate it. It's a little tricky but definitely worth the cost savings.
Thanks for the great how-to video. The steps were very clearly explained and you took the time to show everything needed to do this job. Thanks for paying it forward!
2007 is not same as the 2004 if you take it out from the bottom on 2004 you will have to drop the sub frame and than squeeze it out and that is the only way to get it out from the bottom
Awesome vid! I really appreciate getting a front view of the engine with the radiator out of the way. My A/C lost its cooling ability a while back. I recharged the freon myself in which it only cooled for about an hour or so. Upon inspection I found my low-pressure discharge hose had started to rub up on my belt. I felt the area of contact and couldnt find a hole but there was a very clear depression in the hose itself. I plan to remove the hose tomorrow to have it refabricated. I was at Napa the other day to grab something really quick and left my car running with the A/C off. I ended up waiting for about 10-15mins in the store because the sales associate was occupied and when I had returned to my car with the associate my car began to over heat. I believe i saw some sizzle from the radiator cap as well as the reserve tank cap. I also lost about half a quart of coolant that leaked out onto the ground. The leak pooled just below the reserve tank it seemed. Do you think my A/C problem and overheating problem could be linked?
+4thcavalier I apologize for the late reply. My son was in a bad car accident and is in a coma. We are hopeful and faith driven people. In terms of the overheat I doubt they are linked. If the a/c compressor froze up not allowing the belt to rotate it would have burned off from the friction. If the depression in the hose did leak that would be my first stop in the troubleshooting journey. Otherwise there are a few other components as possible culprits. Thermostat, water pump, fans, or the fan relays may be to blame. I hope you have figured it out by now. As a diy this may be a reasonable fix if the motor did not get so hot to damage the head gaskets.
I just replaced a compressor on a 04 myself.Drained the system down then i took out the 4- 14 mm bolts in the front engine mount,put a jack centered under the front cradle . Removed the 4 front cradle to body bolts(17 mm heads).Then I removed the rt. front tire and removed the two mount bolts facing out towards the fender well. Removed just the two bolts on the right side with a swivel socket.Then disconnected the lines and wire from the compressor. Lowered the jack under the cradle, engine will only go down so far.Unbolted the compressor and removed it through the passenger side wheel well. Whole job under an hour! You may have to pry the cradle down and put a block between the cradle and the body to have a little more room.
No worries George. AutoZone was running a 20% off deal for Memorial day so i just ordered on there. Getting the 2-year warranty unit. A bit more, but wanted a "little" back up in case it goes bad again right away.
Yes you should be able to. That was my experience. Keep in mind that when you open up the system you will have to change the desiccant filter and be sure that the appropriate amount of pag 46 oil is in the system. Check out the comments for the oil charge information I discovered.
Here is the info on the charge. It was a little unclear but you should get the idea. I hope this helps. ""'Since it is going to be a new system, there is nothing left for you to flush. A/C REFRIGERANT OIL REPLACEMENT Recommended PAG oil: KEIHIN SP - 10: • P/N 38897 -P13 -A01AH: 120 m l (4 fl - oz) • P/N 38899 -P13 -A01: 40 m l (1 1/3 fl - oz) Add the recommended refrigerant oil in the amount listed if you replace any of the following parts. • To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils. • Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. • Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If it gets on the paint, wash it off immediately. Condenser. 25 m l (5/6 fl -oz) Evaporator. 40 m l (1 1/3 fl - oz) Line or hose. 10 m l (1/3 fl -oz) Leakage repair. 25 m l (5/6 fl -oz) Compressor. For compressor replacement, subtract the volume of oil drained from the removed compressor from 130 m l (4 1/3 fl - oz), and drain the calculated volume of oil from the new compressor: 130 m l (4 1/3 fl - oz) - Volume of removed compressor = Volume to drain from new compressor. NOTE: Even if no oil is drained from the removed compressor, don't drain more than 50 m l (1 2/3 fl -oz) from the new compressor.'""
Leanne Jones It is PAG 46 Compressor oil. I said PAG 40 at the end but it is PAG 46. The quantity is 4.50 oz. if the compressor is dry shipped. www.techchoiceparts.com/refrigerant-and-oil-capacities/honda
@@GeorgeJirout Thank you George. I live in NZ and doing this by myself. Never done this before...I'm sure I will do it...even if I get confused. I assume that the oil goes somewhere...lol...not sure where yet...not at this stage yet. Any tips I'd love to hear. Kia Kaha
Leanne Jones Well NZ is just stunning (pictures only as I have not had the privilege of visiting) When you receive the compressor It will have plugs in the holes where the lines attach ( this is where you add/remove oil) Invert the compressor and pour all the oil into a clean glass container and measure that to verify the correct amount. I purchased a small container of the PAG 46 oil and added the And out of the exact amount just to be sure. I’m certain there’s gonna be a large delay due to our geographic locations but I’d be happy to help.
@@GeorgeJirout I got the compressor and the starter for 220.00. from the wrecker. But i think the starter motor is the wrong one. I'll find out when I pull it out tomorrow.monday nzt Sunday your time.the compressor is the right one.i would like to take you up on your offer of help please......if I was a Megan or a Harry...I would send you a jet to pick you up.
George. Thank you for much for sharing this video. I'm gonna give it a go next weekend hopefully. Do you still have the links to the parts you purchased off Amazon? I'd like to get those on order right away.
How do you know if you need to replace everything or not? Am I just looking for signs of trash when i pull it or is there a shorter way of telling? Someone has done this before so if they replaced the compressor before wouldn't that aftermarket compressor be better than before?
Assuming the system is not under pressure there is a filter on the bottom right side of the condenser, a desiccant filter. A 10 mm hex will remove the cap which should provide you a glimpse of any debris traveling through the system. I hope that helps?
I do not have much info on the viability of the aftermarket compressors. I know that the one I used in the video is still working, Knock Knock Knock, as of today. The two OEM units previously installed both imploded, both done by Honda.
This is a very common question. If the impeller inside the compressor imploded (indicated by crunching metallic mayhem). Take out the desiccant filter located on the bottom right hand side of the radiator (10mm hex) and look for metal fragments. If present the whole thing needs to be replaced. I seem to remember someone in the thread changing out the clutch assembly (similar symptomatology as yours ) and they were back in business. Thats about all I have. The guy said he pulled the clutch without going to deep into the car, read through these comments and you may find what you are looking for. Sorry for the late reply. I started typing this earlier and the puppy came into my office and commenced a urinary relief procedure that sidetracked me to which I brain dumped the memory cache until heading back to the house for a coffee refill!
Oh wow. Sorry to hear about the urinary relief. So in trying to do the repair,though I know expensive, do you think a local Honda dealer or an auto parts store would carry those 10 sizes plastic push pins?
Perhaps, surely the parts can arrive in a day or so should you choose to use the dealer. They are fairly common ad the pins typically break during service work.
George you are the man! I've got everything off, but I've hit a possible catastrophic issue. I got down to that last bolt, underside of compressor, the passenger side bolt,(the bugger the as you say) used a 12mm box, and it's stripped.... Its like 100 today here in Charlotte, as it will be for the next 2 months, my very pregnant wife needs this car, and that bolt is now stripped..... I couldn't be more bummed.. I have no clue as to what tool I could even go buy to do this job...
I'll try to find a fix for you this evening, there is a way to get the bugger out of there stripped or not. I have severe weather heading our way and need to baton down the hatches.
George Jirout oh wow, so sorry to hear about the weather George. Yeah I'm at the point where I'm considering having AAA tow it to an auto guy all because of this bolt! All this time money and effort for diy, I don't want to admit defeat yet! I went and purchase needle nose vice grips and they were a no go. I'll be patiently waiting for a solution, and keep your weather in my prayers
+Alexander Davidson When ours went out there was a intermittent (2 per second) deep chirping sound resonating from the compressor area with and without the a/c activated. The sound would speed up with the engine. We did hear the knocking noise on a/c failure #2 back in 2008, however, that was only when the a/c switch was activated. The best case scenario, from what you describe, is an a/c clutch failure. This type of failure keeps the system "clean" and the clutch can be replaced. I seem to remember someone in this thread of comments talking about this repair. I hope this information helps.
Jud Covert I think I remember a person doing it when I did my research prior to this job. In my opinion it would be hard to get a puller in between the fender wall and the clutch pulley. I will look at my wife's car tonight and update if this opinion changes. I did this job last summer and I remember trying every which way to avoid pulling the whole system out. It was due to the clutch that I choose to do the whole system rather than have a failure and ruin the evaporator in the dash. Our clutch was "chirping" and when removed the bearings sounded crunchy and I was glad I changed it. I hope this helps?
George Jirout Thanks George! First I removed the bumper, I was able to get the clutch off, take out the snap ring... pulley was easy to dislodge. I had it completely loose but not enough room to get the pulley out. I loosened the condenser and radiator, removed the passenger radiator fan and coolant overflow tank and was able to take the top compressor bolts out. The bottom ones were easy with the bumper off. I moved the compressor over an inch or so and got the pulley out. I didn't have to break open the system and didn't have to drain the coolant! If I was replacing the compressor I don't think there would be anyway around removing the radiator. I'll look in the garage again tomorrow and get the compressor brand, I don't think it's original so who knows if that's a good or bad thing, car has 170k on it and I'm poor and cheap. Thanks for the helpful video!
Jud Covert Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience! I have been super busy in grad school so the reply times are lagging on my side! Glad to hear you are back on the road and saved some $$$ over the stealerships.
Great video, thanks for posting. About to dive into a complete A/C system replacement on my wife's CRV. Will shoot some video and post on my channel. Any last minute tips before I dive in?
Not really, check out the other comments as some have said there were other ways to avoid losing the coolant by removing the crossbar??? I wanted new coolant and did not see a way to do that in my situation. It was not to bad. Look at other videos about the evaporator under the dash (if you have to go all the way) as that was a step I was able to forego. I will answer any questions along the way if need be! Have fun :) you will be done in no time and will save a bundle of $$$$...
If it did it would sound like a bottle full of metal being shaken violently when the ac is engaged. Otherwise the clutches also have issues on our model year CR-V. If you change the compressor there is an accumulator/drier built into the condenser which has a desiccant bag inside (driver side with access from the bottom 14mm hex) that should be replaced whenever the system is opened. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7C21Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Depending on the amount of cash you want to spend will determine what else you may want to replace. I had it apart and decided to do the belt & tensioner www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2UKMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CHMMJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 When you start the project and want any help just let me know.
I couldn't get the message to deliver. You list of parts is good. Just get the o-rings at the local parts store. Thanks for the opportunity to be of service.
Honda is fully aware of their weak AC systems. The CRV line from 2002 - 2009 has had problems. Usually the clutch goes and next the compressor which then fouls the entire AC system. Honda offered a warranty extension and even had a Service Bulletin. The guy at Miller Honda in Vestal NY gave me a BS story such as he never heard of a problem, etc. I got a bit loud with them and even contacted Honda America. They wont do anything. I have 2 Hondas which will be the last I ever own. The fix on the '07 was $1100. I'm not waiting for the '05 to go, I'm getting rid of it. Honda....never again.
My 2003 CRV was just diagnosed with an imploded condenser. The estimate was $3600. I looked online and saw a kit for $600 that included 6 parts including the hoses. Is all that necessary and if so how much more difficult is installing that kit and are there any special tools needed. Do you know if there is a video that shows the complete install from start to finish?
You will need the evaporator, all lines, condenser w/desiccant filter, o-rings, expansion valve, compressor, coolant, trans fluid (automatic) and the pag 46 oil and r134a refrigerant. I could not find a complete s-f video. I pieced together enough to do mine and then posted what I learned. I think with basic tools in metric sizes you can remove and replace the whole system. Recharge will require a manifold gauge set for r134 and a vacuum pump (critical) to do it right. I found everything on Amazon for a good deal. The compressor from Universal AC had the best reviews and came with oil in it already (follow the directions in the box). With intermediate skill and a desire to save $$$$ you can do this! I can be of help if you need it. Research the many forums on CRV ac repair and scour UA-cam for as much as you can, you undoubtedly have started. I know it seems daunting but if they can do it so can you :) The evaporator is under the dash behind the glove box. It is a pain working under the dash and requires patience, but again a doable proposition. As for pricing on parts, just shop and shop some more. That is usually the pain
George can i ask one more question? this clutch stopped working a couple of days ago, and we stopped driving the car immediately. Is it posible that simply replacing the compresor/clutch will be good? The reason i ask is because i see a lot of people saying YOU MUST REPLACE THE WHOLE SYSTEM when your compressor blows..i can undertand why they say that, but to me that sounds ridiculous.. like this below, has a whole page dedicated to it on ebay: I am quoting ebay, below..... There is no simple way to repair the CR-V’s AC System. You MUST replace the following parts to remedy the problem: 1. Compressor 2. Condenser (with Drier attached) 3. Expansion Device 4. Evaporator 5. System Seal Kit 6. System Oil 7. Both low side and high side AC Hoses. i cannot simply replace the compressor???
Hi George and thanks for sharing this video! Few questions; is there any torque specification for bolts when you retighten them on the pipes for condenser, expansion valves etc? Is this doable in a single day if you have all the parts around ? I am considering to do this job this spring, not sure if I have to change the whole system, for now all I can say is that my clutch doesn’t engage. I will start to check the electrical stuff but I am pretty sure will ene up to replace the compressor at least. Any advice would be most welcome!
Hey Bob, you sure can do it in a day. I had to wait on parts, but if they are ready it goes rather quick. The vacuuming down the system takes about an hour (30-40min min.) to be sure it is free of moisture (vacuum pumps and manifold gauges are readily available and easy to use). The bolts are just about 15 ft lbs. or just good and snug. You are going into aluminum and the O-rings are doing to sealing not the torque on the bolt. When you pull the condenser take out the filter (10mm hex) look for metal fragments in the desiccant filter bag. If they are present, even the smallest of small the systems needs replacing. Otherwise you may get away from replacing the evaporator under the dash, or behind the glovebox. The messages below have all the parts from amazon with links. If I remember correctly. If not I would be happy to source them again as they are in my order history. This is a fairly easy one Bob. The fact that you are willing to give it a go shows you have the skills needed to get it done. I hope it is merely a minor electrical gremlin :) Let me know if you need any thing further. I hope this helps! Have a great weekend...
George Jirout I am back with the news... As I already have mentioned I changed the whole system: evaporator, condenser, compressor, the two hoses, expansion valve, dryer. The job took me a couple of days - started on noon - Saturday, finished Sunday afternoon. In my case, only the clutch was faulty, I measured the resistance of the coil and it is interrupted. There was no debris in the system, probably the clutch died well before the compressor would have die and contaminate the lines . But, having all the parts ordered I gone ahead and I replaced everything, my car being MY 2003 . A was able to pull the radiator together with the fans as a whole unit. A pair of long nose pliers is a must have to get all the wires disconnected without breaking the connectors. "Being there" I replaced the belt tensioner pulley and I cleaned the alternator as I had a leaking oil seal on crankshaft (that was fixed 2 days ahead) and everything was messy. Also, I cleaned the PCV valve and replaced few rusted hose clamps. The Evaporator was a fairly straight forward job - just needed to be carefully how the blower fan box came out. Moving back to the engine bay, I replaced the hoses, the condenser, the compressor, and I put everything back together preparing the field for vaccum. The vacuum pump that I bought is a Robinair 1.5 CFM with oil and an adapter for charging hose included and also i got the valve with the tapping pin and three 12 oz cans of R134 (pure, without oil or dye). I started to pull vacuum, and I reached easily at -28-29. After about an hour I closed the valves on the manifold gauge set and then I stopped the pump. The system started to lose vacuum and in about 1 min the atmospheric pressure was back. A big leak I thought?! I replaced some of the O rings, same result. Then I pulled vacuum again and disconnected the high pressure side hose (the red one) and having only the low side hose connected I had vacuum for long ... I reconnected the red hose, pulled vacuum again and started to charge the system with refrigerant. The first can went fairly quick and the compressor started to engage. Then, I used a digital balance to measure the quantity needed from the second can. All in all I added 18 oz to the system. Maybe less as I purged the yellow line two times to get the air out of it. I did the charging on idle, and the pressure on the gauges was 35 on low and 115 on the high . Ambient temperature was 62 F . The dash vent temperature was 41 F-42 F . Today I tested again the dash vent temp and is the same that was yesterday. I will do some tests again having the engine revved at ~2000 rpm to check the pressure on low side and high side. 35 on low and 115 on the high seems to be a bit lower than normal for 62F outside temperature. Now, the questions.... is the A/C manifold gauge set faulty? maybe a loose hose fitting going to it, or a hose seal ? I got an Harbor Freight (US General) set and mine came without O rings at the end of the hoses. Are they supposed to have O rings ? If anyone has the same set, can confirm please? I am not very confident that my work is a successfully one as long as the system didn't hold the vacuum with both hoses connected to the service ports on the car. On the other hand, testing the dash vent temperature and having the same temp as yesterday gives me some hope that the system is actually good and the A/C manifold gauge set is faulty. What do you think? Thank you again for all your assistance and for adding this video on UA-cam . You did a great job. This gave me the confidence to start this DIY. Bob
It sounds like you are a competent DIY after all that! I purchased my manifold set from Amazon and it did have o rings. Try pulling a vacuum on the gauges with the valves closed to see if the valves hold. If they do the next logical place for a leak would be the hoses without o rings on the female ends. I am proud of your courage and abilities! I am convinced that we can do much more together than apart! And the You Tube University continues to help all of us with these and other repairs encountered in life. I will try and post a picture of the hose ends later today, they may offer some insight into your vacuum loss. If the compressor comes on the system should be ok, I seem to remember it not being able to function without the refrigerant and oil under vacuum. A few searches can confirm this as I am not 100% certain. I want to add a farewell ada boy to your efforts! I appreciate the honor of being a small part of your experience.
George Jirout Hi George, thanks for the hint ! I will test to pull vacuum on the gauges with the valves closed. Moreover I will switch the hoses to see the behavior for each one. My hoses seem to be crimped with a white plastic, instead of having rubber washers or O rings. Thank you again for taking time to respond to my questions and for your nice words. Bob
Sorry to repeat a previous question, but I'm so paranoid right now after reading countless horror stories that I want to try and avoid this $3k service. Just bought a used 03 CRV. Should I just replace the AC Compressor as a preventative measure? Is this new one built differently to ensure it won't have the same problems?
I do not have a definitive answer either way. In our case the failures took place most often in California while my wife was commuting to Palm Springs (hot 110 degrees hot). I imagine the car humming along at 70 mph with the ac full blast and an ambient temp under the hood hovering in the 160 - 80 range. The first two failures were under those conditions. The last time the bearings went out, now in the opposite conditions of - 30 to 0 degrees in ND. The compressor did not implode but I replaced it in lieu of losing the whole system. I only have about 10k on the after market compressor, with no obvious issues during the summer (full blast ac in 90 degree humid) and it has been below 0 a couple times this year, but the real test is yet to come in Jan- March. I guess it would be a precautionary fix to try and beat it to the punch by changing the compressor, surely it would save a bundle of cash and flesh from your knuckles! Maybe a call to the ac distributor to get an idea whether they have changed the composition of the metal impeller in those units. I seem to recall a made in China label on the one I purchased, so it may be beyond the scope of the distributor to answer the question. See what I mean? I am sorry that I cannot give you a straight answer Mike. It surely is a waiting game. Honda of America worked with us on the first two and I seem to recall a class action settlement related to the issues with this ac. Dig around a bit in cyber space, you may find that with Honda kicking in a few nickels it may be worth it to wait it out ??? I understand the frustration, but the CR-V is a great car otherwise, I think :/
My friend had her 06 Honda CR-V flushed and recharged. They said she needs to replace the liquid line, but trying to buy the part nobody seems to know exactly what that is. There were 2 metal lines running across the compressor and he said the one has a filter in it and it's clogged from the particles of the broken compressor and has to be changed. Do you know the name of the part?
They are high and low pressure lines respectively. Look at the blue caps on the lines where one would add the refrigerant. They are marked "H" & "L" for high and low. Trace them to where the filter is and you will know which line it is. I think the High Pressure line is the filter side of the system. Here are some examples I found. www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-55262-Refrigerant-Hose/dp/B003YP3JQU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406568415&sr=8-2&keywords=06+honda+crv+ac+compressor+lines www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-55242-Refrigerant-Hose/dp/B003YP76RI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406568415&sr=8-4&keywords=06+honda+crv+ac+compressor+lines
As far as I can tell the filter is in the condenser, same as our 04. Look at the side of the condenser where it looks like a cylinder is attached, the filter/drier goes in there. Not sure why your friend received that info?? Most other cars do have the filter in the "line" or refrigerant hose, but not in the CR-V with our model years. Hope this helps :) www.amazon.com/Delphi-CF20033-New-Conditioning-Condenser/dp/B001UCAUU2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406568415&sr=8-3&keywords=06+honda+crv+ac+compressor+lines
Her compressor exploded. She had the compressor and condenser replaced then took it to another place to have it flushed and recharged. They said the liquid line needs to be replaced it was clogged. It does have a blue cap with and H on it. Is it the suction or discharge hose? I looked at both links to Amazon but her line was all metal and Amazons isn't does that matter?
The compressor should have 4oz of PAG 46 added if it came "dry." either way you should rotate the pulley and a/c clutch together 20 revolutions in both directions to be sure the inside of the compressor is completely lubricated. I added r134a with oil in it when I charged the system, 1oz oil 16oz refrigerant, it was in the can that way. The system only called for 4oz of oil (3oz in the compressor and 1oz in the charging). Here is what I found about the oil charge on a CRV forum. ""'Since it is going to be a new system, there is nothing left for you to flush. A/C REFRIGERANT OIL REPLACEMENT Recommended PAG oil: KEIHIN SP - 10: • P/N 38897 -P13 -A01AH: 120 m l (4 fl - oz) • P/N 38899 -P13 -A01: 40 m l (1 1/3 fl - oz) Add the recommended refrigerant oil in the amount listed if you replace any of the following parts. • To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils. • Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption. • Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If it gets on the paint, wash it off immediately. Condenser. 25 m l (5/6 fl -oz) Evaporator. 40 m l (1 1/3 fl - oz) Line or hose. 10 m l (1/3 fl -oz) Leakage repair. 25 m l (5/6 fl -oz) Compressor. For compressor replacement, subtract the volume of oil drained from the removed compressor from 130 m l (4 1/3 fl - oz), and drain the calculated volume of oil from the new compressor: 130 m l (4 1/3 fl - oz) - Volume of removed compressor = Volume to drain from new compressor. NOTE: Even if no oil is drained from the removed compressor, don't drain more than 50 m l (1 2/3 fl -oz) from the new compressor.'"" Hope that helps!
I have an 06 Honda CR-V and the AC Compressor blew up it exploded it has a hole on it. what other parts do you recommend replacing along with the compressor if any?
Assuming the entire system is contaminated you will need the evaporator, all lines (high/low pressure), condenser w/desiccant filter, o-rings, expansion valve, compressor, coolant and the pag 46 compressor oil and r134a refrigerant. I could not find a complete s-f video. I pieced together enough to do mine and then posted what I learned. I think with basic tools in metric sizes you can remove and replace the whole system. Recharge will require a manifold gauge set for r134 and a vacuum pump (critical) to do it right. I found everything on Amazon for a good deal. The compressor from Universal AC had the best reviews and came with oil in it already (follow the directions in the box). With intermediate skill and a desire to save $$$$ you can do this! I can be of help if you need it. Research the many forums on CRV ac repair and scour UA-cam for as much as you can, you undoubtedly have started. I know it seems daunting but if they can do it so can you :) The evaporator is under the dash behind the glove box. It is a pain working under the dash and requires patience, but again a doable proposition. As for pricing on parts, just shop and shop some more. That is usually the pain. I hope I did not miss anything. Take out the filter on the condenser and look for metal fragments of various sizes, if you see them the system is contaminated.
We had the A/C repaired for the second time in 2013 and it went down again just las September (2015). As summer approaches in Texas we are undecided as to weather or not we should fix our car. What do you suggest? Is this car worth fixing? I'm also considering a newer CRV, do you think I'll encounter the same problem?
In regards to the newer CR-V a/c i am not educated on the viability of the new a/c design. I do know that after I repaired our a/c in the video we have had no additional failures as of today and the a/c stills operates as well as it ever did. Our a/c failed 2 times as well :( As for options the idea of spending a few hundred and a small number of hours to repair proved to benefit our expenditures over the cost of monthly car payments. Our family has been getting used to the lack of car payments and like the idea, until of course it becomes an absolute necessity. Other than the a/c the CR-V has been reliable, efficient, and suited to our needs and thus we would probably consider another one after careful consideration of any potential defective engineering that is not to uncommon on any machine these days. I hope that helps? I would also pray over any decision and seek the advice of Jesus, this has been a great way to mitigate my shortcomings when faced with decisions such as these. :)
Johnathan Rozenboom The dryer is on the right side of the condenser, facing the car, accessed from the bottom. I only recall the one electrical switch being in the compressor unit. I will have to double check for you
I found the preasure switch its behind the headlight in the high preasure line . unfortunately this wasn't my problem.... My compressor is bad I finally got it to engage and it started knocking bad also cutting out intermittently, so I took the relay out so it couldn't be engaged , to avoid imploding if it hasn't already. Our Crv has over 200k miles so I'd have to assume the a.c had been done before at some point. Do you have any info or can you direct me to some info on how to tell if I need to replace the system or just the compressor and filter? Thank you Johnathan
I would start with depressurizing the system and checking the dryer filter for debris. If it is polluted with fragments then the whole system needs to be changed as it is near impossible to flush out all of the metal from the impeller disintegrating. I seem to remember the dryer comes out with w 10mm hex from the bottom, the filter will slide out. It appears to be a bag of desiccant material . I had two implode but the dealer did them before I did this video on the third one. I hope that helps Johnathan? I know this is a major pain! Our crv is still going at 211000 but she is eating oil now. I will keep feeding the beast until it dies or the a/c goes out again HAHA.... Thanks for allowing me the privilege to offer my help. I think this forum, UA-cam as a whole, has been super helpful for me in so many ways that I cherish the opportunity to be of service to others.
The compressors that failed, were they the same brand? or same as factory fitted compressors? Did you just have to replace the compressor, or replace the whole cooling system? I heard the compressor can fail and stuff the entire system up, needing replacement. Do you recommend an aftermarket compressor?
+sypher0101 I missed the last part of the question. I would say yes to aftermarket because 2 Honda OEM bot imploded within one year after the dealer replaced them. The Universal Air compressor I purchased from Amazon is still doing fine after the summer of a/c use.
Call Honda of America. Explain the situation and tell them the milage on the care. The second time our crv was at 111000K so they prorated the coverage to 50 % the first time the milage was at approx. 50K and they paid 100% We purchased the care used with 25k miles on it so it was never under the factory warranty. automobiles.honda.com/information/customer-relations
So sorry for the late reply! The life of a social worker :) www.amazon.com/UAC-CO-10663AC-C-Compressor/dp/B00FQ0T2XA/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=CR-V%7C754&Year=2004%7C2004&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive I could not find it in my archived orders, but here is the unit from United Air Conditioners. Ours is still blowing cold and no implosions after three years! Praise the LORD!
hey George, thanks very much for the video. I have a 2002 with damaged condenser (and radiator). am now rebuilding. thx for msg on type of oil, amount, and how to fill. gread vid. Bob B., AR
Thanks for the kind words! I replied to your last comment and it sounds like you are almost done, way to go Bob :) I still cannot believe the cost of this job at a shop or worst, the dealership :( Happy wrenching.
Hi george! Thank you so much we are all so grateful for your video I have watched it 5 times I was hoping you could help me out and possibly point me to the video you referred to from a guy named Carl? there is a specific reason why I asked, that really isn't relevant to discuss now, but is there any chance you could post a link to Carl's video, the one where the radiator is not removed??? I am doing this project this weekend. thank you and again I am very grateful for this video thank you so much! P. S. I honestly have no way of knowing when you reply but I will be waiting patiently hopefully my gmail will get notified or something. my project will wait until I hear from you
BTW George, i'm about to reassemble. replacement oil is PAG 46 per all sources, equivalent to SP-10 which is in manual spec. i'm going to try to find refrigerant with 1 oz oil, as you did.that's about how much lost, per your source as well as: www.johnsens.com/uploads/files/regulatory_lubricantguide4.pdf i think since this oil was lost from condenser and lines to/from condenser, it should be okay to add back thru low pressure line, after vacuuming system. i'm going to use vacuum and manifold from AutoZone or similar, plan to hook system up, vacuum to zero, then add refrigerant/oil mix. will replace seals where i can but not other parts right now, except maybe dryer if its not too expensive. any other suggestions?
You sound like you are right on track. Sorry for the late reply for some reason UA-cam spammed your comment??? I agree with the low pressure line charge. That is the typical route to add oil to the system. I would let the vacuum pump run for a 30-60 min cycle to boil off the moisture in the system. It should pull to -28 hg or so as a perfect vacuum is like -30 hg which is theoretical :/ I digress. The important thing is to have new desiccant to pull any remnant of moisture during operation. I recently learned all this from my research. Our system is running great since this video. No issues at all. I hope you have the same outcome Bob. How's the weather in AR? Have a great Day!
Robert BBriggs Hi Bob and George As per the document you have had attached the oil shall be added to the compressor before starting the vacuuming process. On the other hand seems that you added the oil thru the yellow (charge) line after the vacuuming ? I am still confused how can I add the oil after the vacuuming process without losing the vacuum in the lines. Or with other words, will that vacuum pump sucks the oil form the compressor? I am planning to buy a Robinair 1.5 cfm . Will that do the trick ? Not too many options here in Ontario... Thank you !
Bob Sorry for the delay! Add the oil, I think its like 4 oz, from the sealed pag 46 bottle into the port side on the compressor before you attach the line. spin the entire clutch assembly to pre lube the new compressors guts. 15 revolutions in both directions. After you pull the Vacuum, the oil and refrigerant combo can will pull both in through the manifold valves center or yellow hose. This is done during the charging stage. After you have a vacuum on it for an hour or so, this boils off the moisture and gets the system ready for charge, take note of the degree of vacuum after you close the valves and let it sit for a half hour. If you do not see change in the number, say from -28 to -20 or less, you have no leaks! Yay! Then you are set to charge.. If you are adding just oil pour it all in the compressor. Mine came wet, with oil, so I pour it off into a measuring cup to see how many oz. were in there, I was then able to calculate the correct number of fluid oz with my oil, refridge/oil charge can and go from there.
Bob I think your pump is fine. Just let it stay on there awhile. I think mine was a 3 cfm, its in the shop and I will check later. Be sure the pump has oil, the vacuum pump! They get hot and need oil to work properly. It will only vacuum out the air. no worries! If you need any more help I will be working on a paper today so my computer will be in my face after an hour from now 10:50 CST. I can talk to you over the phone if you want. Let me know either way it is only stressful due to the unknowns, after this you will be a Honda a/c Master! lol...
George Jirout Thanks again for your assistance. Now, I am at the cross roads as here, in Canada, the refrigerant R134a is hard to find. So I might have the recharge part of the job done by a shop. Will search more for refrigerant suppliers and will decide :(
I have the 2004 CRV you did way to much work. Loosen the radiator cross support and set aside/pull out of the way. Pull out the radiator over flow bottle, it's tight but will come out. Support right side sub-frame with floor jack Remove 3 sub frame bolts and loosen the 4th closest to the drivers feet. remove the center front lower motor mount bolt. Lower the sub frame with floor jack. Unbolt compressor hoses and compressor. Easy peazy, flat rate it!
@@GeorgeJirout how is that amazon rebuilt compressor from Miami working now or is that where you got it. the compressor I replaced was number 99,xxx from the same place as the new one in the 260,000 rebuilds number. I have no idea how long it was in the car as I just bought the car for my daughter a few months back. Either way the AC compressor clutch blew/seized and broke the belt. Not sure I trust these rebuilds, than again a new factory is priced through the roof and the latest parts I got from the Honda dealer said made in China so why bother paying 4 times the price. the new amazon CV axle at $70 worked out great. for those wondering, I am a retired Mercedes tech and also a Honda tech with full tooling working out of my garage. I also have a refrigerant/AC lisence so George's method might work better for your tooling/skill level.
The Custom Crafter That Amazon compressor is fully functional and have not had a lick of trouble with the internals, clutch, or bearing. I am super happy as the repair was not terrible, but more a pain with the wife complaining about a sweaty bra! That CRV is at my sons house hauling the grand baby with 265,000 miles. A few minor oil leaks but otherwise humming along.
You made that job 1000 times harder for yourself you remove the sub frame disconnect, four bolts disconnect, the serpentine belt and she’s out I don’t know why in the hell would you take the whole front end of coding the radiator you just like working hard good job though
jacob here is the link to the video you requested: ua-cam.com/video/SShJy8sj-fI/v-deo.html I did not see the reply button in your comment so I trust you will get this message. You are most welcome! I appreciate the fact that everyone shares information and we as a collective are able to do so much when we help each other with the knowledge we gain as we go through life :)
Lol thanks George! Yeah, it's people like you that bring good to the world,and in turn the good Wil come to you for helping us all. FYI my sitch is I just moved to NC from Buffalo ny, I know not 1 soul. I've never experienced 104 ° Temps and then of course my ac dies, and all the quotes I got were over $800 all the way to $1675. In the end, the only thing we KNOW Is the clutch isn't engaging. I evacuated with manifold, and have no leak. Even the slightest freon fill boosts the low side to 90+!!! This issue started after a freon top off. Instantly the clutch kept engaging and engaging repeatedly, like every few seconds. Then it stopped engaging, and blows warm. What's weird is, it's not locked up,it spins. Checked fuses and they're good. I'm hoping replacing this assembly tomorow will do the trick. My wife is 6mo preggo and she can't leave the house in this heat wave... I'm no auto repair expert, but I'm extremely mechanically inclined, engineering background, I repair the smallest of things like microprocessors in cell phones, build laptops from scratch, and have done many decent sized auto repair jobs. So I'm hoping this won't be rocket science, especially with how logical your tutorial is....
Kevin Caudill No worries! If you would share the procedure it would help others save some time. I am an average joe and that was the only way I saw it would come out. I learned a ton and had plenty of room to work in there (both of my arms are messed up and do not work properly). I would love to learn how to perform the 123 method, sure would save time. Thanks for sharing!
Kevin Caudill Hi Kevin, I saw your comment regarding removal of the ac compressor (honda crv) from the bottom, without the need to rip half the car apart. I've tried doing it the long way but realized I don't have the tools to get into tight places. How do you remove the compressor from the bottom? Are there any tools that make it easier? I only have wrenches and a socket set (basic). Your help would be greatly appreciated, I'm learning a lot about this. Cheers, Roy
Once upon a time Young lady buy Honda auto. Later becomes Menopause lady Hot flashes, Honda AC not work. Lady buy Heavy Chevy with Heavy Duty AC. Honda Executive meditate in sweat lodge, how to fix Honda AC. Computer glitch, Electronics, thermostat? Watch George Jirout video on youtube?
Honda knows the 2nd Gen CRV ACs (and probably other models) are crap....have you priced OEM parts lately? Getting ready to tackle this and do not look forward to it. Why not offer the parts at cost as a good will gesture? Silly me, that's logic getting in the way? Might be time for a Toyota 🙂
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Remove the upper radiator support, overflow reservoir, passenger side cooling fan, serpentine belt. disconnect the 2 ac lines, power supply plug and 4 bolts holding the compressor, then lift the compressor out. Oh, pop the grill out so the radiator and condenser can go forward a couple inches. I just did this this morning in about an hour and 1/2.
Seriously? Please tell me more, I'm getting ready to take on this adventure. Did you have to drop the subframe? Thanks
@@factotumted Pretty much what I said except there are 2 10mm bolts that are a bitch to get to where the top mounting mounting brackets for the radiator attach on each side when you look down.
@@factotumted And no, don't drop the subframe.
@@timthemechanix thanks Tim! 😊
Thank you, I watch so many video and nobody explain detail like you. Every clip was cut without detail. Keep up the good work!!
Just did mine without removing the radiator and bumper just loosened the radiator and removed the crossbar. Harder to work around but a lot less time and fluid
Thank you for sharing you experience. I am sure it will help another person down the road as this seems to be common issue for us with the CR-V... It
Hi George thanks for the video. I have a new compressor from amazon for my 2005 CRV. I got stuck at the point where I took the bumper and plastics off. I see now that I have to remove the condenser and radiator to do this job properly. Thank you for taking the time to produce this helpful video i appreciate it. It's a little tricky but definitely worth the cost savings.
Carleone Alleyne Thank you for your kind words! You will be happy and proud of your work. Have a great weekend! We have lots to do around here!!
@@GeorgeJirout I got the new compressor installed yesterday, definitely a good sense of achievement :-) take care.
Thanks for the great how-to video. The steps were very clearly explained and you took the time to show everything needed to do this job. Thanks for paying it forward!
Thank you for the kind words!
just did a 2007 crv. compressor can be replaced with only removing bottom plastic splash guard..takes about 30 min
jim bean I am glad to hear that. I am sure that will help another diy with this job in the future. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Ha great! I need to do my 2007. Thanks.
2007 is not same as the 2004 if you take it out from the bottom on 2004 you will have to drop the sub frame and than squeeze it out and that is the only way to get it out from the bottom
Awesome vid! I really appreciate getting a front view of the engine with the radiator out of the way.
My A/C lost its cooling ability a while back. I recharged the freon myself in which it only cooled for about an hour or so. Upon inspection I found my low-pressure discharge hose had started to rub up on my belt. I felt the area of contact and couldnt find a hole but there was a very clear depression in the hose itself. I plan to remove the hose tomorrow to have it refabricated.
I was at Napa the other day to grab something really quick and left my car running with the A/C off. I ended up waiting for about 10-15mins in the store because the sales associate was occupied and when I had returned to my car with the associate my car began to over heat. I believe i saw some sizzle from the radiator cap as well as the reserve tank cap. I also lost about half a quart of coolant that leaked out onto the ground. The leak pooled just below the reserve tank it seemed.
Do you think my A/C problem and overheating problem could be linked?
+4thcavalier I apologize for the late reply. My son was in a bad car accident and is in a coma. We are hopeful and faith driven people. In terms of the overheat I doubt they are linked. If the a/c compressor froze up not allowing the belt to rotate it would have burned off from the friction. If the depression in the hose did leak that would be my first stop in the troubleshooting journey. Otherwise there are a few other components as possible culprits. Thermostat, water pump, fans, or the fan relays may be to blame. I hope you have figured it out by now. As a diy this may be a reasonable fix if the motor did not get so hot to damage the head gaskets.
Great descriptive video. God bless you for taking all that time.
Thank you for your kind words of encouragement.
I just replaced a compressor on a 04 myself.Drained the system down then i took out the 4- 14 mm bolts in the front engine mount,put a jack centered under the front cradle . Removed the 4 front cradle to body bolts(17 mm heads).Then I removed the rt. front tire and removed the two mount bolts facing out towards the fender well. Removed just the two bolts on the right side with a swivel socket.Then disconnected the lines and wire from the compressor. Lowered the jack under the cradle, engine will only go down so far.Unbolted the compressor and removed it through the passenger side wheel well. Whole job under an hour! You may have to pry the cradle down and put a block between the cradle and the body to have a little more room.
Thank you for sharing your experience as it will undoubtedly help out someone in a similar situation with this issue.
No worries George. AutoZone was running a 20% off deal for Memorial day so i just ordered on there. Getting the 2-year warranty unit. A bit more, but wanted a "little" back up in case it goes bad again right away.
Wow that's no average, that is skilled job! Well done. Thumbs up from Ireland !:)
We have an 07 CRV. Just replaced compressor and plan to replace it again. Damn thing gets too hot.
Do u kno anything bout car stereos have an aftermarket and can't get to power on tripled checked all connection
My 2004 Honda CR-V was making a big loud noise. Finally went out yesterday sucks
Mouse Gipson that’s a bummer. There’s good insight on the repair in the comments as well.
Excellent info. I'm planning on repairing my ac. Is there anything I should replace besides the ac compressor? Condenser?
If the system "imploded" it is a must. All the parts are on amazon for a fair price. Did it implode?
if it did not implode. can I get by just replacing the compresser?
Yes you should be able to. That was my experience. Keep in mind that when you open up the system you will have to change the desiccant filter and be sure that the appropriate amount of pag 46 oil is in the system. Check out the comments for the oil charge information I discovered.
Here is the info on the charge. It was a little unclear but you should get the idea. I hope this helps.
""'Since it is going to be a new system, there is nothing left for you to flush.
A/C REFRIGERANT OIL REPLACEMENT
Recommended PAG oil: KEIHIN SP - 10: • P/N 38897 -P13 -A01AH: 120 m l (4 fl - oz)
• P/N 38899 -P13 -A01: 40 m l (1 1/3 fl - oz)
Add the recommended refrigerant oil in the amount listed if you replace any of the following parts.
• To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils.
• Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption.
• Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If it gets on the paint, wash it off immediately.
Condenser. 25 m l (5/6 fl -oz)
Evaporator. 40 m l (1 1/3 fl - oz)
Line or hose. 10 m l (1/3 fl -oz)
Leakage repair. 25 m l (5/6 fl -oz)
Compressor. For compressor replacement, subtract the volume of oil drained from the removed compressor from 130 m l (4 1/3 fl - oz), and drain the calculated volume of oil from the new compressor: 130 m l (4 1/3 fl - oz) - Volume of removed compressor = Volume to drain from new
compressor.
NOTE: Even if no oil is drained from the removed compressor, don't drain more than 50 m l (1 2/3 fl -oz) from the new compressor.'""
George Jirout thanks
What is the oil you put into the compressor pump?
Leanne Jones It is PAG 46 Compressor oil. I said PAG 40 at the end but it is PAG 46. The quantity is 4.50 oz. if the compressor is dry shipped.
www.techchoiceparts.com/refrigerant-and-oil-capacities/honda
@@GeorgeJirout Thank you George. I live in NZ and doing this by myself. Never done this before...I'm sure I will do it...even if I get confused. I assume that the oil goes somewhere...lol...not sure where yet...not at this stage yet. Any tips I'd love to hear. Kia Kaha
Leanne Jones Well NZ is just stunning (pictures only as I have not had the privilege of visiting)
When you receive the compressor It will have plugs in the holes where the lines attach ( this is where you add/remove oil) Invert the compressor and pour all the oil into a clean glass container and measure that to verify the correct amount. I purchased a small container of the PAG 46 oil and added the And out of the exact amount just to be sure. I’m certain there’s gonna be a large delay due to our geographic locations but I’d be happy to help.
@@GeorgeJirout I got the compressor and the starter for 220.00. from the wrecker. But i think the starter motor is the wrong one. I'll find out when I pull it out tomorrow.monday nzt Sunday your time.the compressor is the right one.i would like to take you up on your offer of help please......if I was a Megan or a Harry...I would send you a jet to pick you up.
That oil is expensive here.
George. Thank you for much for sharing this video. I'm gonna give it a go next weekend hopefully. Do you still have the links to the parts you purchased off Amazon? I'd like to get those on order right away.
Great video.Thanks for posting
Jeff Pettitt Thank You! Have a great day Jeff!!
How do you know if you need to replace everything or not? Am I just looking for signs of trash when i pull it or is there a shorter way of telling? Someone has done this before so if they replaced the compressor before wouldn't that aftermarket compressor be better than before?
Assuming the system is not under pressure there is a filter on the bottom right side of the condenser, a desiccant filter. A 10 mm hex will remove the cap which should provide you a glimpse of any debris traveling through the system. I hope that helps?
I do not have much info on the viability of the aftermarket compressors. I know that the one I used in the video is still working, Knock Knock Knock, as of today. The two OEM units previously installed both imploded, both done by Honda.
This is a very common question. If the impeller inside the compressor imploded (indicated by crunching metallic mayhem). Take out the desiccant filter located on the bottom right hand side of the radiator (10mm hex) and look for metal fragments. If present the whole thing needs to be replaced. I seem to remember someone in the thread changing out the clutch assembly (similar symptomatology as yours ) and they were back in business. Thats about all I have. The guy said he pulled the clutch without going to deep into the car, read through these comments and you may find what you are looking for. Sorry for the late reply. I started typing this earlier and the puppy came into my office and commenced a urinary relief procedure that sidetracked me to which I brain dumped the memory cache until heading back to the house for a coffee refill!
Oh wow. Sorry to hear about the urinary relief. So in trying to do the repair,though I know expensive, do you think a local Honda dealer or an auto parts store would carry those 10 sizes plastic push pins?
Perhaps, surely the parts can arrive in a day or so should you choose to use the dealer. They are fairly common ad the pins typically break during service work.
George you are the man! I've got everything off, but I've hit a possible catastrophic issue. I got down to that last bolt, underside of compressor, the passenger side bolt,(the bugger the as you say) used a 12mm box, and it's stripped.... Its like 100 today here in Charlotte, as it will be for the next 2 months, my very pregnant wife needs this car, and that bolt is now stripped..... I couldn't be more bummed.. I have no clue as to what tool I could even go buy to do this job...
I'll try to find a fix for you this evening, there is a way to get the bugger out of there stripped or not. I have severe weather heading our way and need to baton down the hatches.
George Jirout oh wow, so sorry to hear about the weather George. Yeah I'm at the point where I'm considering having AAA tow it to an auto guy all because of this bolt! All this time money and effort for diy, I don't want to admit defeat yet! I went and purchase needle nose vice grips and they were a no go. I'll be patiently waiting for a solution, and keep your weather in my prayers
What did the noise sound like? I have a compressor that is knocking without the ac even being on.
+Alexander Davidson When ours went out there was a intermittent (2 per second) deep chirping sound resonating from the compressor area with and without the a/c activated. The sound would speed up with the engine. We did hear the knocking noise on a/c failure #2 back in 2008, however, that was only when the a/c switch was activated. The best case scenario, from what you describe, is an a/c clutch failure. This type of failure keeps the system "clean" and the clutch can be replaced. I seem to remember someone in this thread of comments talking about this repair. I hope this information helps.
I have a 2002 CRV with a bad clutch bearing. Is it possible to replace without evacuating the system?
Jud Covert I think I remember a person doing it when I did my research prior to this job. In my opinion it would be hard to get a puller in between the fender wall and the clutch pulley. I will look at my wife's car tonight and update if this opinion changes. I did this job last summer and I remember trying every which way to avoid pulling the whole system out. It was due to the clutch that I choose to do the whole system rather than have a failure and ruin the evaporator in the dash. Our clutch was "chirping" and when removed the bearings sounded crunchy and I was glad I changed it. I hope this helps?
George Jirout Thanks George! First I removed the bumper, I was able to get the clutch off, take out the snap ring... pulley was easy to dislodge. I had it completely loose but not enough room to get the pulley out. I loosened the condenser and radiator, removed the passenger radiator fan and coolant overflow tank and was able to take the top compressor bolts out. The bottom ones were easy with the bumper off. I moved the compressor over an inch or so and got the pulley out. I didn't have to break open the system and didn't have to drain the coolant! If I was replacing the compressor I don't think there would be anyway around removing the radiator. I'll look in the garage again tomorrow and get the compressor brand, I don't think it's original so who knows if that's a good or bad thing, car has 170k on it and I'm poor and cheap. Thanks for the helpful video!
Jud Covert Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience! I have been super busy in grad school so the reply times are lagging on my side! Glad to hear you are back on the road and saved some $$$ over the stealerships.
Great video, thanks for posting. About to dive into a complete A/C system replacement on my wife's CRV. Will shoot some video and post on my channel. Any last minute tips before I dive in?
Not really, check out the other comments as some have said there were other ways to avoid losing the coolant by removing the crossbar??? I wanted new coolant and did not see a way to do that in my situation. It was not to bad. Look at other videos about the evaporator under the dash (if you have to go all the way) as that was a step I was able to forego. I will answer any questions along the way if need be! Have fun :) you will be done in no time and will save a bundle of $$$$...
Not sure if it did. It's 2004 with 120,000 miles. The ac just stopped working in April.
If it did it would sound like a bottle full of metal being shaken violently when the ac is engaged. Otherwise the clutches also have issues on our model year CR-V. If you change the compressor there is an accumulator/drier built into the condenser which has a desiccant bag inside (driver side with access from the bottom 14mm hex) that should be replaced whenever the system is opened.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7C21Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Depending on the amount of cash you want to spend will determine what else you may want to replace. I had it apart and decided to do the belt & tensioner
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2UKMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CHMMJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When you start the project and want any help just let me know.
I couldn't get the message to deliver. You list of parts is good. Just get the o-rings at the local parts store. Thanks for the opportunity to be of service.
no need for the kit with expansion valve unless you are changing the evaporator under the dash.
George Jirout If its just my compressor, do I need to change the condenser?
WoodpekaPekahead No. Just the desiccant filter in the condenser.
Honda is fully aware of their weak AC systems. The CRV line from 2002 - 2009 has had problems. Usually the clutch goes and next the compressor which then fouls the entire AC system. Honda offered a warranty extension and even had a Service Bulletin. The guy at Miller Honda in Vestal NY gave me a BS story such as he never heard of a problem, etc. I got a bit loud with them and even contacted Honda America. They wont do anything. I have 2 Hondas which will be the last I ever own. The fix on the '07 was $1100. I'm not waiting for the '05 to go, I'm getting rid of it. Honda....never again.
My 2003 CRV was just diagnosed with an imploded condenser. The estimate was $3600. I looked online and saw a kit for $600 that included 6 parts including the hoses. Is all that necessary and if so how much more difficult is installing that kit and are there any special tools needed. Do you know if there is a video that shows the complete install from start to finish?
You will need the evaporator, all lines, condenser w/desiccant filter, o-rings, expansion valve, compressor, coolant, trans fluid (automatic) and the pag 46 oil and r134a refrigerant. I could not find a complete s-f video. I pieced together enough to do mine and then posted what I learned. I think with basic tools in metric sizes you can remove and replace the whole system. Recharge will require a manifold gauge set for r134 and a vacuum pump (critical) to do it right. I found everything on Amazon for a good deal. The compressor from Universal AC had the best reviews and came with oil in it already (follow the directions in the box). With intermediate skill and a desire to save $$$$ you can do this! I can be of help if you need it. Research the many forums on CRV ac repair and scour UA-cam for as much as you can, you undoubtedly have started. I know it seems daunting but if they can do it so can you :) The evaporator is under the dash behind the glove box. It is a pain working under the dash and requires patience, but again a doable proposition. As for pricing on parts, just shop and shop some more. That is usually the pain
George can i ask one more question? this clutch stopped working a couple of days ago, and we stopped driving the car immediately. Is it posible that simply replacing the compresor/clutch will be good? The reason i ask is because i see a lot of people saying YOU MUST REPLACE THE WHOLE SYSTEM when your compressor blows..i can undertand why they say that, but to me that sounds ridiculous.. like this below, has a whole page dedicated to it on ebay:
I am quoting ebay, below.....
There is no simple way to repair the CR-V’s AC System. You MUST replace the following parts to remedy the problem:
1. Compressor
2. Condenser (with Drier attached)
3. Expansion Device
4. Evaporator
5. System Seal Kit
6. System Oil
7. Both low side and high side AC Hoses.
i cannot simply replace the compressor???
Hi George and thanks for sharing this video!
Few questions; is there any torque specification for bolts when you retighten them on the pipes for condenser, expansion valves etc?
Is this doable in a single day if you have all the parts around ?
I am considering to do this job this spring, not sure if I have to change the whole system, for now all I can say is that my clutch doesn’t engage.
I will start to check the electrical stuff but I am pretty sure will ene up to replace the compressor at least. Any advice would be most welcome!
Hey Bob, you sure can do it in a day. I had to wait on parts, but if they are ready it goes rather quick. The vacuuming down the system takes about an hour (30-40min min.) to be sure it is free of moisture (vacuum pumps and manifold gauges are readily available and easy to use). The bolts are just about 15 ft lbs. or just good and snug. You are going into aluminum and the O-rings are doing to sealing not the torque on the bolt. When you pull the condenser take out the filter (10mm hex) look for metal fragments in the desiccant filter bag. If they are present, even the smallest of small the systems needs replacing. Otherwise you may get away from replacing the evaporator under the dash, or behind the glovebox. The messages below have all the parts from amazon with links. If I remember correctly. If not I would be happy to source them again as they are in my order history. This is a fairly easy one Bob. The fact that you are willing to give it a go shows you have the skills needed to get it done. I hope it is merely a minor electrical gremlin :) Let me know if you need any thing further. I hope this helps! Have a great weekend...
George Jirout I am back with the news... As I already have mentioned I changed the whole system: evaporator, condenser, compressor, the two hoses, expansion valve, dryer. The job took me a couple of days - started on noon - Saturday, finished Sunday afternoon.
In my case, only the clutch was faulty, I measured the resistance of the coil and it is interrupted. There was no debris in the system, probably the clutch died well before the compressor would have die and contaminate the lines . But, having all the parts ordered I gone ahead and I replaced everything, my car being MY 2003 . A was able to pull the radiator together with the fans as a whole unit. A pair of long nose pliers is a must have to get all the wires disconnected without breaking the connectors. "Being there" I replaced the belt tensioner pulley and I cleaned the alternator as I had a leaking oil seal on crankshaft (that was fixed 2 days ahead) and everything was messy. Also, I cleaned the PCV valve and replaced few rusted hose clamps.
The Evaporator was a fairly straight forward job - just needed to be carefully how the blower fan box came out. Moving back to the engine bay, I replaced the hoses, the condenser, the compressor, and I put everything back together preparing the field for vaccum.
The vacuum pump that I bought is a Robinair 1.5 CFM with oil and an adapter for charging hose included and also i got the valve with the tapping pin and three 12 oz cans of R134 (pure, without oil or dye).
I started to pull vacuum, and I reached easily at -28-29. After about an hour I closed the valves on the manifold gauge set and then I stopped the pump. The system started to lose vacuum and in about 1 min the atmospheric pressure was back. A big leak I thought?! I replaced some of the O rings, same result. Then I pulled vacuum again and disconnected the high pressure side hose (the red one) and having only the low side hose connected I had vacuum for long ...
I reconnected the red hose, pulled vacuum again and started to charge the system with refrigerant. The first can went fairly quick and the compressor started to engage. Then, I used a digital balance to measure the quantity needed from the second can. All in all I added 18 oz to the system. Maybe less as I purged the yellow line two times to get the air out of it.
I did the charging on idle, and the pressure on the gauges was 35 on low and 115 on the high . Ambient temperature was 62 F .
The dash vent temperature was 41 F-42 F . Today I tested again the dash vent temp and is the same that was yesterday. I will do some tests again having the engine revved at ~2000 rpm to check the pressure on low side and high side. 35 on low and 115 on the high seems to be a bit lower than normal for 62F outside temperature.
Now, the questions.... is the A/C manifold gauge set faulty? maybe a loose hose fitting going to it, or a hose seal ? I got an Harbor Freight (US General) set and mine came without O rings at the end of the hoses. Are they supposed to have O rings ? If anyone has the same set, can confirm please?
I am not very confident that my work is a successfully one as long as the system didn't hold the vacuum with both hoses connected to the service ports on the car. On the other hand, testing the dash vent temperature and having the same temp as yesterday gives me some hope that the system is actually good and the A/C manifold gauge set is faulty. What do you think?
Thank you again for all your assistance and for adding this video on UA-cam . You did a great job. This gave me the confidence to start this DIY. Bob
It sounds like you are a competent DIY after all that! I purchased my manifold set from Amazon and it did have o rings. Try pulling a vacuum on the gauges with the valves closed to see if the valves hold. If they do the next logical place for a leak would be the hoses without o rings on the female ends. I am proud of your courage and abilities! I am convinced that we can do much more together than apart! And the You Tube University continues to help all of us with these and other repairs encountered in life. I will try and post a picture of the hose ends later today, they may offer some insight into your vacuum loss. If the compressor comes on the system should be ok, I seem to remember it not being able to function without the refrigerant and oil under vacuum. A few searches can confirm this as I am not 100% certain. I want to add a farewell ada boy to your efforts! I appreciate the honor of being a small part of your experience.
George Jirout Hi George, thanks for the hint ! I will test to pull vacuum on the gauges with the valves closed. Moreover I will switch the hoses to see the behavior for each one. My hoses seem to be crimped with a white plastic, instead of having rubber washers or O rings. Thank you again for taking time to respond to my questions and for your nice words. Bob
Sorry to repeat a previous question, but I'm so paranoid right now after reading countless horror stories that I want to try and avoid this $3k service. Just bought a used 03 CRV. Should I just replace the AC Compressor as a preventative measure? Is this new one built differently to ensure it won't have the same problems?
I do not have a definitive answer either way. In our case the failures took place most often in California while my wife was commuting to Palm Springs (hot 110 degrees hot). I imagine the car humming along at 70 mph with the ac full blast and an ambient temp under the hood hovering in the 160 - 80 range. The first two failures were under those conditions. The last time the bearings went out, now in the opposite conditions of - 30 to 0 degrees in ND. The compressor did not implode but I replaced it in lieu of losing the whole system. I only have about 10k on the after market compressor, with no obvious issues during the summer (full blast ac in 90 degree humid) and it has been below 0 a couple times this year, but the real test is yet to come in Jan- March. I guess it would be a precautionary fix to try and beat it to the punch by changing the compressor, surely it would save a bundle of cash and flesh from your knuckles! Maybe a call to the ac distributor to get an idea whether they have changed the composition of the metal impeller in those units. I seem to recall a made in China label on the one I purchased, so it may be beyond the scope of the distributor to answer the question. See what I mean? I am sorry that I cannot give you a straight answer Mike. It surely is a waiting game. Honda of America worked with us on the first two and I seem to recall a class action settlement related to the issues with this ac. Dig around a bit in cyber space, you may find that with Honda kicking in a few nickels it may be worth it to wait it out ??? I understand the frustration, but the CR-V is a great car otherwise, I think :/
My friend had her 06 Honda CR-V flushed and recharged. They said she needs to replace the liquid line, but trying to buy the part nobody seems to know exactly what that is. There were 2 metal lines running across the compressor and he said the one has a filter in it and it's clogged from the particles of the broken compressor and has to be changed. Do you know the name of the part?
They are high and low pressure lines respectively. Look at the blue caps on the lines where one would add the refrigerant. They are marked "H" & "L" for high and low. Trace them to where the filter is and you will know which line it is. I think the High Pressure line is the filter side of the system. Here are some examples I found.
www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-55262-Refrigerant-Hose/dp/B003YP3JQU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406568415&sr=8-2&keywords=06+honda+crv+ac+compressor+lines
www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-55242-Refrigerant-Hose/dp/B003YP76RI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406568415&sr=8-4&keywords=06+honda+crv+ac+compressor+lines
As far as I can tell the filter is in the condenser, same as our 04. Look at the side of the condenser where it looks like a cylinder is attached, the filter/drier goes in there. Not sure why your friend received that info?? Most other cars do have the filter in the "line" or refrigerant hose, but not in the CR-V with our model years. Hope this helps :)
www.amazon.com/Delphi-CF20033-New-Conditioning-Condenser/dp/B001UCAUU2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406568415&sr=8-3&keywords=06+honda+crv+ac+compressor+lines
Her compressor exploded. She had the compressor and condenser replaced then took it to another place to have it flushed and recharged. They said the liquid line needs to be replaced it was clogged. It does have a blue cap with and H on it. Is it the suction or discharge hose? I looked at both links to Amazon but her line was all metal and Amazons isn't does that matter?
luckycharmed65 Have her get both. Mine had rubber on them too. When the system explodes everything needs to be replaced, unfortunately .
sir,. do I need to add ac oil on other system other than only comressor? if so how much I need for
The compressor should have 4oz of PAG 46 added if it came "dry." either way you should rotate the pulley and a/c clutch together 20 revolutions in both directions to be sure the inside of the compressor is completely lubricated. I added r134a with oil in it when I charged the system, 1oz oil 16oz refrigerant, it was in the can that way. The system only called for 4oz of oil (3oz in the compressor and 1oz in the charging). Here is what I found about the oil charge on a CRV forum.
""'Since it is going to be a new system, there is nothing left for you to flush.
A/C REFRIGERANT OIL REPLACEMENT
Recommended PAG oil: KEIHIN SP - 10: • P/N 38897 -P13 -A01AH: 120 m l (4 fl - oz)
• P/N 38899 -P13 -A01: 40 m l (1 1/3 fl - oz)
Add the recommended refrigerant oil in the amount listed if you replace any of the following parts.
• To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils.
• Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption.
• Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If it gets on the paint, wash it off immediately.
Condenser. 25 m l (5/6 fl -oz)
Evaporator. 40 m l (1 1/3 fl - oz)
Line or hose. 10 m l (1/3 fl -oz)
Leakage repair. 25 m l (5/6 fl -oz)
Compressor. For compressor replacement, subtract the volume of oil drained from the removed compressor from 130 m l (4 1/3 fl - oz), and drain the calculated volume of oil from the new compressor: 130 m l (4 1/3 fl - oz) - Volume of removed compressor = Volume to drain from new
compressor.
NOTE: Even if no oil is drained from the removed compressor, don't drain more than 50 m l (1 2/3 fl -oz) from the new compressor.'""
Hope that helps!
How did you get Honda to pay for the compressor? My compressor went out recently.
Can this same method be applied to the 03 model
donovan renteria From what I read and viewed it does apply to the '03 model.
How long would u say it took u
If you have all the parts 5 hours. I took extra time, but in total about 5 hours if you stay after it.
Ok thx
I have an 06 Honda CR-V and the AC Compressor blew up it exploded it has a hole on it. what other parts do you recommend replacing along with the compressor if any?
Assuming the entire system is contaminated you will need the evaporator, all lines (high/low pressure), condenser w/desiccant filter, o-rings, expansion valve, compressor, coolant and the pag 46 compressor oil and r134a refrigerant. I could not find a complete s-f video. I pieced together enough to do mine and then posted what I learned. I think with basic tools in metric sizes you can remove and replace the whole system. Recharge will require a manifold gauge set for r134 and a vacuum pump (critical) to do it right. I found everything on Amazon for a good deal. The compressor from Universal AC had the best reviews and came with oil in it already (follow the directions in the box). With intermediate skill and a desire to save $$$$ you can do this! I can be of help if you need it. Research the many forums on CRV ac repair and scour UA-cam for as much as you can, you undoubtedly have started. I know it seems daunting but if they can do it so can you :) The evaporator is under the dash behind the glove box. It is a pain working under the dash and requires patience, but again a doable proposition. As for pricing on parts, just shop and shop some more. That is usually the pain. I hope I did not miss anything.
Take out the filter on the condenser and look for metal fragments of various sizes, if you see them the system is contaminated.
what a good teacher. thanks for sharing
+Mary Xiong Thank you Mary! I appreciate your kind words :)
George Jirout do i need a pulley to take off the ac clutch ...
Have you ever replaced your evaporator when you did this?
enveng427 No I did not. I do know it is behind the glove box inside the car. Sorry :(
We had the A/C repaired for the second time in 2013 and it went down again just las September (2015). As summer approaches in Texas we are undecided as to weather or not we should fix our car. What do you suggest? Is this car worth fixing? I'm also considering a newer CRV, do you think I'll encounter the same problem?
In regards to the newer CR-V a/c i am not educated on the viability of the new a/c design. I do know that after I repaired our a/c in the video we have had no additional failures as of today and the a/c stills operates as well as it ever did. Our a/c failed 2 times as well :( As for options the idea of spending a few hundred and a small number of hours to repair proved to benefit our expenditures over the cost of monthly car payments. Our family has been getting used to the lack of car payments and like the idea, until of course it becomes an absolute necessity. Other than the a/c the CR-V has been reliable, efficient, and suited to our needs and thus we would probably consider another one after careful consideration of any potential defective engineering that is not to uncommon on any machine these days. I hope that helps? I would also pray over any decision and seek the advice of Jesus, this has been a great way to mitigate my shortcomings when faced with decisions such as these. :)
What an awesome video. Thanks!
Thank you for the kind words!
where is the dryer and low preasure switch located?
Johnathan Rozenboom The dryer is on the right side of the condenser, facing the car, accessed from the bottom. I only recall the one electrical switch being in the compressor unit. I will have to double check for you
I found the preasure switch its behind the headlight in the high preasure line . unfortunately this wasn't my problem.... My compressor is bad I finally got it to engage and it started knocking bad also cutting out intermittently, so I took the relay out so it couldn't be engaged , to avoid imploding if it hasn't already. Our Crv has over 200k miles so I'd have to assume the a.c had been done before at some point. Do you have any info or can you direct me to some info on how to tell if I need to replace the system or just the compressor and filter?
Thank you Johnathan
I would start with depressurizing the system and checking the dryer filter for debris. If it is polluted with fragments then the whole system needs to be changed as it is near impossible to flush out all of the metal from the impeller disintegrating. I seem to remember the dryer comes out with w 10mm hex from the bottom, the filter will slide out. It appears to be a bag of desiccant material . I had two implode but the dealer did them before I did this video on the third one. I hope that helps Johnathan? I know this is a major pain! Our crv is still going at 211000 but she is eating oil now. I will keep feeding the beast until it dies or the a/c goes out again HAHA.... Thanks for allowing me the privilege to offer my help. I think this forum, UA-cam as a whole, has been super helpful for me in so many ways that I cherish the opportunity to be of service to others.
thank you very much for your help. God bless :)
Thanks bro. that was very help full God bless you!
Prestige Motors 2k309 Joselito thank you! God Just blessed me with your comment✝️
God bless U more and more bro. So U can help more and more.
what r the bags for
Sasha Brown to keep contamination out of the system.
The compressors that failed, were they the same brand? or same as factory fitted compressors?
Did you just have to replace the compressor, or replace the whole cooling system? I heard the compressor can fail and stuff the entire system up, needing replacement.
Do you recommend an aftermarket compressor?
+sypher0101 First two were Honda OEM. We are in to the aftermarket one year with no issues. Hope that helps!
+sypher0101 I missed the last part of the question. I would say yes to aftermarket because 2 Honda OEM bot imploded within one year after the dealer replaced them. The Universal Air compressor I purchased from Amazon is still doing fine after the summer of a/c use.
How did you go about getting Honda to cover it?
Call Honda of America. Explain the situation and tell them the milage on the care. The second time our crv was at 111000K so they prorated the coverage to 50 % the first time the milage was at approx. 50K and they paid 100% We purchased the care used with 25k miles on it so it was never under the factory warranty.
automobiles.honda.com/information/customer-relations
great video !!! thanks very much; very good well done . now I know what I am get into..
Hey George what brand compressor did you buy off Amazon and has it still held up?
So sorry for the late reply! The life of a social worker :)
www.amazon.com/UAC-CO-10663AC-C-Compressor/dp/B00FQ0T2XA/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=CR-V%7C754&Year=2004%7C2004&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive
I could not find it in my archived orders, but here is the unit from United Air Conditioners. Ours is still blowing cold and no implosions after three years! Praise the LORD!
George Jirout thank you buddy
hey George, thanks very much for the video. I have a 2002 with damaged condenser (and radiator). am now rebuilding. thx for msg on type of oil, amount, and how to fill. gread vid. Bob B., AR
Thanks for the kind words! I replied to your last comment and it sounds like you are almost done, way to go Bob :) I still cannot believe the cost of this job at a shop or worst, the dealership :( Happy wrenching.
Hi george! Thank you so much we are all so grateful for your video I have watched it 5 times I was hoping you could help me out and possibly point me to the video you referred to from a guy named Carl? there is a specific reason why I asked, that really isn't relevant to discuss now, but is there any chance you could post a link to Carl's video, the one where the radiator is not removed??? I am doing this project this weekend. thank you and again I am very grateful for this video thank you so much!
P. S. I honestly have no way of knowing when you reply but I will be waiting patiently hopefully my gmail will get notified or something. my project will wait until I hear from you
To be clear, we aren't having any issues at the moment, but it seems this is a ticking time bomb...
BTW George, i'm about to reassemble. replacement oil is PAG 46 per all sources, equivalent to SP-10 which is in manual spec. i'm going to try to find refrigerant with 1 oz oil, as you did.that's about how much lost, per your source as well as:
www.johnsens.com/uploads/files/regulatory_lubricantguide4.pdf
i think since this oil was lost from condenser and lines to/from condenser, it should be okay to add back thru low pressure line, after vacuuming system. i'm going to use vacuum and manifold from AutoZone or similar, plan to hook system up, vacuum to zero, then add refrigerant/oil mix. will replace seals where i can but not other parts right now, except maybe dryer if its not too expensive. any other suggestions?
You sound like you are right on track. Sorry for the late reply for some reason UA-cam spammed your comment??? I agree with the low pressure line charge. That is the typical route to add oil to the system. I would let the vacuum pump run for a 30-60 min cycle to boil off the moisture in the system. It should pull to -28 hg or so as a perfect vacuum is like -30 hg which is theoretical :/ I digress. The important thing is to have new desiccant to pull any remnant of moisture during operation. I recently learned all this from my research. Our system is running great since this video. No issues at all. I hope you have the same outcome Bob. How's the weather in AR? Have a great Day!
Robert BBriggs
Hi Bob and George
As per the document you have had attached the oil shall be added to the compressor before starting the vacuuming process.
On the other hand seems that you added the oil thru the yellow (charge) line after the vacuuming ?
I am still confused how can I add the oil after the vacuuming process without losing the vacuum in the lines. Or with other words, will that vacuum pump sucks the oil form the compressor?
I am planning to buy a Robinair 1.5 cfm . Will that do the trick ? Not too many options here in Ontario...
Thank you !
Bob Sorry for the delay! Add the oil, I think its like 4 oz, from the sealed pag 46 bottle into the port side on the compressor before you attach the line. spin the entire clutch assembly to pre lube the new compressors guts. 15 revolutions in both directions. After you pull the Vacuum, the oil and refrigerant combo can will pull both in through the manifold valves center or yellow hose. This is done during the charging stage. After you have a vacuum on it for an hour or so, this boils off the moisture and gets the system ready for charge, take note of the degree of vacuum after you close the valves and let it sit for a half hour. If you do not see change in the number, say from -28 to -20 or less, you have no leaks! Yay! Then you are set to charge.. If you are adding just oil pour it all in the compressor. Mine came wet, with oil, so I pour it off into a measuring cup to see how many oz. were in there, I was then able to calculate the correct number of fluid oz with my oil, refridge/oil charge can and go from there.
Bob I think your pump is fine. Just let it stay on there awhile. I think mine was a 3 cfm, its in the shop and I will check later. Be sure the pump has oil, the vacuum pump! They get hot and need oil to work properly. It will only vacuum out the air. no worries! If you need any more help I will be working on a paper today so my computer will be in my face after an hour from now 10:50 CST. I can talk to you over the phone if you want. Let me know either way it is only stressful due to the unknowns, after this you will be a Honda a/c Master! lol...
George Jirout Thanks again for your assistance. Now, I am at the cross roads as here, in Canada, the refrigerant R134a is hard to find. So I might have the recharge part of the job done by a shop. Will search more for refrigerant suppliers and will decide :(
Thanks George...great vid man...
I have the 2004 CRV you did way to much work. Loosen the radiator cross support and set aside/pull out of the way. Pull out the radiator over flow bottle, it's tight but will come out. Support right side sub-frame with floor jack Remove 3 sub frame bolts and loosen the 4th closest to the drivers feet. remove the center front lower motor mount bolt. Lower the sub frame with floor jack. Unbolt compressor hoses and compressor. Easy peazy, flat rate it!
The Custom Crafter thanks for sharing your experience! I’m sure it will help someone else! Have a great weekend...
@@GeorgeJirout how is that amazon rebuilt compressor from Miami working now or is that where you got it. the compressor I replaced was number 99,xxx from the same place as the new one in the 260,000 rebuilds number. I have no idea how long it was in the car as I just bought the car for my daughter a few months back. Either way the AC compressor clutch blew/seized and broke the belt. Not sure I trust these rebuilds, than again a new factory is priced through the roof and the latest parts I got from the Honda dealer said made in China so why bother paying 4 times the price. the new amazon CV axle at $70 worked out great.
for those wondering, I am a retired Mercedes tech and also a Honda tech with full tooling working out of my garage. I also have a refrigerant/AC lisence so George's method might work better for your tooling/skill level.
The Custom Crafter That Amazon compressor is fully functional and have not had a lick of trouble with the internals, clutch, or bearing. I am super happy as the repair was not terrible, but more a pain with the wife complaining about a sweaty bra! That CRV is at my sons house hauling the grand baby with 265,000 miles. A few minor oil leaks but otherwise humming along.
You made that job 1000 times harder for yourself you remove the sub frame disconnect, four bolts disconnect, the serpentine belt and she’s out I don’t know why in the hell would you take the whole front end of coding the radiator you just like working hard good job though
"It's really not that difficult"
The front of the car is missing !
jacob here is the link to the video you requested:
ua-cam.com/video/SShJy8sj-fI/v-deo.html
I did not see the reply button in your comment so I trust you will get this message. You are most welcome! I appreciate the fact that everyone shares information and we as a collective are able to do so much when we help each other with the knowledge we gain as we go through life :)
Lol thanks George! Yeah, it's people like you that bring good to the world,and in turn the good Wil come to you for helping us all. FYI my sitch is I just moved to NC from Buffalo ny, I know not 1 soul. I've never experienced 104 ° Temps and then of course my ac dies, and all the quotes I got were over $800 all the way to $1675. In the end, the only thing we KNOW Is the clutch isn't engaging. I evacuated with manifold, and have no leak. Even the slightest freon fill boosts the low side to 90+!!! This issue started after a freon top off. Instantly the clutch kept engaging and engaging repeatedly, like every few seconds. Then it stopped engaging, and blows warm. What's weird is, it's not locked up,it spins. Checked fuses and they're good. I'm hoping replacing this assembly tomorow will do the trick. My wife is 6mo preggo and she can't leave the house in this heat wave... I'm no auto repair expert, but I'm extremely mechanically inclined, engineering background, I repair the smallest of things like microprocessors in cell phones, build laptops from scratch, and have done many decent sized auto repair jobs. So I'm hoping this won't be rocket science, especially with how logical your tutorial is....
Thanks for the video
You are most welcome!
Jacob ahern. The reply button did not allow me to reply to you comment. here is the link:
ua-cam.com/video/SShJy8sj-fI/v-deo.html
I hope this helps?
sorry to tell you this it comes out the bottom of car like 123 no need to remove all that stuff thats the long way ...sorry
Kevin Caudill No worries! If you would share the procedure it would help others save some time. I am an average joe and that was the only way I saw it would come out. I learned a ton and had plenty of room to work in there (both of my arms are messed up and do not work properly). I would love to learn how to perform the 123 method, sure would save time. Thanks for sharing!
Kevin Caudill Hi Kevin,
I saw your comment regarding removal of the ac compressor (honda crv) from the bottom, without the need to rip half the car apart. I've tried doing it the long way but realized I don't have the tools to get into tight places.
How do you remove the compressor from the bottom? Are there any tools that make it easier? I only have wrenches and a socket set (basic).
Your help would be greatly appreciated, I'm learning a lot about this.
Cheers,
Roy
HONDA HIDES BASIC PARTS DOESNT MAKE SENSE FOR PARTS THATS NEEDS REPLACING AFTER CERTAIN MILEAGE
Once upon a time Young lady buy Honda auto.
Later becomes Menopause lady Hot flashes, Honda AC not work.
Lady buy Heavy Chevy with Heavy Duty AC.
Honda Executive meditate in sweat lodge, how to fix Honda AC. Computer glitch, Electronics, thermostat? Watch George Jirout video on youtube?
+George Africaner Love it!!! That is about the long and short of it! Thanks for the laughter!!!
Honda knows the 2nd Gen CRV ACs (and probably other models) are crap....have you priced OEM parts lately? Getting ready to tackle this and do not look forward to it. Why not offer the parts at cost as a good will gesture? Silly me, that's logic getting in the way? Might be time for a Toyota 🙂
intro 5 hours churos 20 hours refrain 100 hours ...............gay
I appreciate your feedback Ramil :) God Bless you!
BORING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What, you want him to crack jokes and sing show tunes while doing the video?