All the Race Cars are Broken.,,. come see the carnage .
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- I’m this episode i’ll take you through what’s going on with the race cars cars at the shop. We have to come up with a plan.
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the thing i appreciate most about this is it gives an insight to what people can and do go through when pushing these engines to these levels. most people just see the cars at the track, and making hits, unaware of what we all go through to get there..
Always great content no matter how much carnage there is. Thanks Jamie and Brent for helping with Jack Black as well!
A box with a Made in Australia label... never been more proud of you Brent. Much love from down under 👍
It's awesome watching your kids get really good at engine building.
Been missing you guys !!! Let’s go Pfi speed Rocks !!! 😜👍🇦🇺
Heck yesssss!!! Ask and you shall receive! Brent you’re the best!
Racing.. Expensive sport but dang it's fun.. I still wish I had done some racing when I was younger.. Hat's off to you the crew and family.
Lets go Pfi team, ive been waiting for a new video upload.
Much love everyone ❤❤
Ps, Jamie could you please please please paint your value cover 🙏
Not gonna lie. As bad as the carnage is Brent still has a smile and is positive. This guy has the best attitude. Stay Rad Brent.
So amazing to see you guys work! Thanks for all the content!
Gosh that is some carnage!!! Hopefully the whole team can come together 1 by 1!
When it rains, it pours… As bad as we want to see Sho Nuff back out, take your time! Put only the BEST parts in it. If you gotta let it sit to make sum $$$ for those high dollar pieces. Personally, I’d scrap that crank or fix it and sell it. Knowing you have 100% confidence in your engine makes it easier in the entire project. Good luck you got this!
Guess yall got some long nights and days coming LETS GO 💪💯💪
Thanks for always smiling Brent!
Thank you Sir 👍God Bless
I agree with your idea that some of the fire extinguisher agent got into the engine causing the corrosion. I am an old racer and industrial mechanic and I have seen several engines and pieces of equipment destroyed by some one using a dry powder extinguisher for minor fires. When it was still available I carried a Halon extinguisher in my cars as it doesn't have the same corrosive properties as dry powder.
That dry powder cause far more damage than most realize. Always check where it ended up on anything near it was used and clean up the mess.
@@thatdudeinorange5269 @jerrypolk5909; @PFI Speed; @PFISpeed;
Halon is a gas, thus there is no reside. It simply snuffs out the fire, flames by simply replacing the oxygen, O2, thus stopping the combustion, burning. This is the reason, basis that a human must be removed, distant or at least used in an open area; thus if inside a closed room or space without air, oxygen, the human can suffocate. There are other advantages with Halon for a fire extinguisher both with a portable and within a system: the gas expands to engulf the flaming area, thus does not need to be as precise along with prevents the advancing flames, thus extinguishes, protects everything int he path of the gas spay, expansion via replacing, removing the oxygen, thus flames, burning, combustion, until the source of the burning is reached, thus extinguished. So, the Halon can be sprayed from a safe distance also into an advancing flame, effectively. Also the affects, effects, are actually quicker more efficient, since the flames are extinguished within the path of the gas which dry chemicals do not affect, but are more effective once reaching the source. The halon does not remove the heat within the flame source, nor prevent re-ignition after the gas, Thus, the source of the heat, flames, ignition must be stopped by other appropriate means, extinguishers, including water depending upon source of flames, burning, ignition. Thus with electrical fires, if the power is shut off, with fuel, oil, flammable liquids, gas fires when the source is removed, the flow is stopped or extinguished then there are no longer any means for continuation of burning, flames, combustion. If There are any items which burn as wood, fabrics, fibers, etc. then they may still have hot embers which can ignite within or other flammable items. Similar with very hot metals, the heat remains, thus can result in igniting, ignition, inflaming, burning of other flammable items, objects, solids, liquids, gasses. Thus, also the heat and embers must be extinguished via appropriate means, which often simple water, other non-flammable/in-flammable liquids, sometimes colder is better, even ice is effective if heat is sufficient to melt it, also foam type extinguishers which are not corrosive.
The residue may also damage other items within an engine as the wiring, electrical connections, relays, silicone, coil packs, ignition wiring, alternator [mostly the electronics within] or other type of electrical wires connections within the ignition, starting, charging systems. If the chemical reside is removed completely from other parts, there will not be any possible damage, corrosion to metal and such. However, the manufactures of the chemical fire extinguishers can verify if the chemicals have any corrosive affects upon metals and such. Certainly synthetics, plastics, and such are vulnerable. The known damage upon electronic circuit boards includes the board, including the insulation between layers, thus power, ground, connections mostly, possibly the thin metal traces also of the electronic components on the board too. my expectation is the chemicals within the dry chemical fire extinguishers are not corrosive to metal engine parts, nor harm the lubricants, at least not in the short term, and are rather easily removed. However, some items within the engine, engine compartment, including sensors, wires, ignition, starting, electrical and other components with electrical, electronics, also parts, components with synthetic materials, rubber including fuel pumps, diaphragms, blowout valves, waste gates, belts, flexible tubing, vacuum, fuel, brake lines, etc. Having searched for specific information there are recorded, reported detailed information, knowledge from extensive proper investigation, experimentation within actual science [physics, chemistry, engineering] which determined the corrosive affects of various foams capable of rapidly suppressing and extinguishing the class B pool fires, also dry chemicals capable of rapidly suppressing and extinguishing the class A, B, C fires. The affect, effects, harm, corrosion upon and removal of metal re tiny is the short term, more extensive with time, especially medium to longer term constant storage, which include the tank, components within the fire extinguishing delivery equipment, devices, canisters, tanks, tubes, valves, hoses, etc.
Hopefully these extensive, lengthy comments are helpful to You to, Brent, Jaime, Shane, Steven, all of the PFI Speed Team/Crew, friends and others
All The Best and Much Success in Your Quests, Health, Happiness and Well Being, Sincerely
@@thatdudeinorange5269 @jerrypolk5909; @PFI Speed; @PFISpeed;
Some basic, proper information, knowledge, principles with fire, fire safety, fire extinguishers is very helpful for everyone, especially within motor vehicles [combustion & electrical (Halos is far more important, useful, necessary, essential, vital - it seems from many of the posted reports many fire personnel are lacking proper training with extinguishing electrical fires, especially within electrical vehicles and equipment m- saw a posted report about new electric vehicle, BMW as i recall, which was inside the building on the showroom floor; a person, perhaps salesperson/man notices some smoke from the vehicle then called the local fire department along with the vehicle was removed from the building meanwhile (good idea). apparently, per the posted report, the fire department personnel did not locate the source of the smoke, possible burning, took the vehicle to another location, submerged the entire vehicle in water within a container for many hours to several days. This process clearly indicates the certain lacking within that fire department, personnel about electrical fires; they never located the source; placing the electrical items, equipment, vehicle which has very high voltage batteries, equipment actually increases the problem, fire, burning, etc.
The best process would be to first sprayed every item, component with halon gas in an open area, while assuring all electrical connections are disconnected, then if necessary surround the vehicle in halon gas inside the container, not with water as they did, to extinguish all inflamed items within electrical components, including the batteries, etc. As can be common within any battery powered electrical, electronic equipment, items device, electronics the batteries may overheat, thus melting, damaging other items, thus smoke, even flames may occurs; this has occurred, happened and can still occur, happen with portable and stationary electronics, computers, etc. The electric vehicles have other items, fluids, oils which are flammable, combustible via heat, as within the motors, oil cooling along with other items which may ignite, inflame due to spreading flames, heat, etc., as the seats, carpet, air bags, insulation, etc. especially with the passenger area, compartment; also within most electric vehicles, the majority of the batteries are underneath the floor of the passenger area; seemingly without significant design with flame retardation, heat resistance, etc.; a fully properly designed electric vehicle will have far more fire protection, detection, suppression designed, implemented, installed than currently exists; as within spacecraft especially since Apollo I fire within the command module during last day full rehearsal exercises prior to launch day; initiated by a spark from the electrical equipment within the cabin, then igniting the oxygen; the cabin was completely sealed with insufficient time to open the required seals, thus all three astronauts were quickly burned within the intense heat, burning oxygen; there were numerous changes within the NASA spacecraft, capsules with fire detection, prevention including each astronaut having an individual portable air/oxygen system used during launch; then shut off according to appropriate, proper, safe conditions with the designed air breathing system to fill the capsule; also military aircraft, especially jet aircraft, fighter, bombers, transports and similar which fly higher, have available air/oxygen breathing equipment which is initiated automatically, manually along with attached to the ejection seat, if and when necessary)
With my personal knowledge about fire safety, suppression, equipment, use, procedures, affects, effects, clean up, etc., have carried a halon fire extinguisher in my personal vehicles, in, around the kitchen and any location of fires, gas, etc. for nearly 40 years, since becoming aware of all of the benefits with halon along with the knowledge, practice with human affects, which require air or evacuation. Once while a passenger in the rear of a friend's vehicle, while travelling with a many other passengers, on the highway during our return home one evening, fire, flames from underneath the vehicle was noticed by a driver in an other, thus informed us. Our driver, my friend, quickly moved to the right lanes, to the side of the road, stopped, then we all exited the vehicle. While exiting, i asked my friend if he has a fire extinguisher, to which he replied yes, then proceeded to getting it, which was underneath the rear seat on which i was sitting. Then, we located the source flames which were with the engine compartment. Then opened the hood. The flames were significant, seemingly to me via fuel, apparently a fuel leak. Thus the halon was sprayed into the engine compartment to suppress the flames, extinguish the fire. The engine was already turned off. The halon extinguisher was very effective, but the container was not full, the size was small, thus the amount was insufficient to completely suppress, extinguish all of flames, fire. Another person also stopped to assist, who also had a similar small fire halon extinguisher, which we began using after my friend's was empties. However, that small one too was insufficient to extinguish the increased, increasing flames, burning. Perhaps the two used together earlier may have been enough, certainly more effective combined, but total result is unknown. Thankfully, meanwhile someone contacted the fire department, a truck appeared after some time, while the engine area continued to burn, while We all had exited safely, but in helpless despair until the truck arrived, then extinguished the fire. Thankfully, fortunately the entire vehicle was not engulfed in flames, was not burned, nor did the flames travel to the fuel tank either. There was damage but salvageable, repairable with all lives in tact, unharmed. This experience, event clearly indicated having the necessary, full, proper size fire extinguisher available within the vehicle. Even more so within performance, racing vehicles especially with use of more highly flammable liquids with ethanol, methanol, nitro-methane along with full and hybrid electric vehicles, in which the fire issues are actually more dangerous for the passengers, since the vast majority of the batteries, which may overheat, are commonly underneath the entire passenger area.
Hopefully these extensive, lengthy comments are helpful to You to, Brent, Jaime, Shane, Steven, all of the PFI Speed Team/Crew, friends and others
All The Best and Much Success in Your Quests, Health, Happiness and Well Being, Sincerely
I had an inline 4 on a dune buggy eat itself up like this. My issue ended up being the flywheel coming loose, which did the same thing and oblonged the holes. Its like putting a pound of weight on 1 blade of a perfectly balanced fan. It literally shook the engine to death. When you've got the flywheel shifting on the oblong bolts with the extra weight of the clutch on it, you've got all those terrible harmonics going directly into the rotating assembly through the crank. Then add 10,000 rpms and the fact that the imbalance is plugged directly into the crank via input shaft, and you've got this recipe for disaster.
Man, you guys are pushing those engines to the maximum limit
Damn Jamie has been eating good 😮
It's a great day when my favorite UA-camr posts! Love y'all.
It just dawned on me that you guys have enough broken aluminum rods you could melt them down and make cast parts. Like oil pans and other random things to hold things. 😂
You Honda guys have to enjoy the grind, it's unreal the amount of struggle y'all go through to push these cars like this.
Hope you get it all sorted out!! Let’s go!!!
How far the boys have come they have great mentoring 😂
Love this kind of videos always something to learn listening to you guys talk!
Let’s goooo! Another banger from this great channel!
They all in good hands caint wait to see some passes let’s goooooo
Hell yeah world cup, LETS GOO!!!!
Flywheel came loose which caused the crank pulley to take all the harmonics causing all the damage
One time we had a truck catch fire and 3 months later came back in and everything was rusted and binding up cause of the fire extinguishers we used. It was really bad really quick
Wow , I’ve always had problems with stock
Honda diffs. They were always breaking on my b series engines. Especially the cable trannies
Maybe when the fire happened it steamed water up into Shonuffs block. Or fuel system steamed into it some how.
Let’s go bro 😎
I was introduced to harmonica by a guy named glue in Colorado Springs, CO Circa 2001.
PFI rocks! 🤙🏼🤙🏼
The timing chain locked up like you showed and it caused the keyway to snap then the both came loose and the rest his history.
Oliver Anthony, It's a dam shame what the world has come to! I hear ya Brother!
Curious as to what cylinder heads you guys favor for the K24s and a stock emergency option. Cant remember which video the guy brought Brent a stock head to use or i would go back and see what it was. In that video he was going faster than my goals 4-450whp anyway
❤️👊🏼🔥🔥🔥 Doing is Learning, and Learning is Living ❤️👊🏼🔥
Boy oh boy I have been waitin for this shit here.....😮👍👍👍👍👍👍
Good luck
Missed you guys
Takes Time to get it Right an We Know this, Goofys an Jamie's an Sho Nuff will be back up running 👽👍🏻✨
PFI Speed Let's Go!
The crew is hard on stuff, but that just means everyone is having fun and pushing the limits, keep going fellas!
Hi , you must do a best off vidéo PFI engine breack ^^ Force to rebuild !
Call off the search party.
Let's go pfi crew 🤜👍
Loving the content guys as always!!!
Keep grinding
That fire was allot more damaging than we originally thought
Damn that was a long 10 days 😂
Do you guys send your lower assembly out for balancing the crank the rods and balancer n clutch. Maybe that will help if you don’t do that but if you do right on.
✌️🤙 so much destruction, ouch!! Race break fix repeat👍👍
Do work 💪 keep 😁... See you at wcf!
sho nuff thats some damage!
I have a spare AP1 crank if thats what you need
Could the damper bolt have been over torqued causing it to crack
Hang in there…the economy is never going back to the better days. Hope biz picks up and we see PFI dominate.
jamies car is hard on engines!
Lol I’ve split one block and thrown one rod out now, I think I have a pretty good success to engine failure rate at this level with these setups 😂
all the vibration, all your engines coming apart maybe you need to start going to another machinist balancing is so crucial I won’t even replace a single rod with the exact same rod, same manufacture, same brand, same size unless it has exact same weight as the part I’m replacing and I mean exactly I don’t mean within plus or minus 3/10 of a gram I mean exactly all the horsepower you squeeze out the little four cylinders. Do you know everything’s gotta be spot on
What's in the made in Australia box? Maybe it was made near me
PFI fa life.
@pfi is there a video on doing timing with that timing wheel
We're gonna have to confiscate the up key till you guys complete 2 race meets without breaking anything.
id love to come over and help man!
What’s going on with the Freedom Civic?
Love you guys, you're all so badass. Keep staying positive, and having each other's backs you guys know, team work makes the dream work baby. Still love every video you guys, keep it up. I wish with all my heart that I could be able to work on engines like you guys.
Is that why they pin the crank ?
Something nasty ended up on them cams.
Rode hard put away wet... did the methanol attract water causing that rust on the cams?
Was looking for this comment. Just watched a video on running regular fuel for one heat cycle. Along with an oil change just to remove any moisture caused from the methanol.
@@nessie42786 More obvious, certain, common ignorance from these comments about ethanol and methanol !!
A. They DO NOT attract water; rather they absorb and continue to burn with more water than higher carbon hydrocarbon fuels
B. See all professional, amateur racing vehicle which use ethanol, methanol including within NHRA/IHRA/PDRA/NPK, NASCAR, NTT IndyCar, F1,2,3,4, IMSA, FIA, TransAM, Time Attack, Slalom, Road Racing, Pikes Peak, Speed-Flats, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 Mile, 1 Mile, etc.
C. There are issues with rust via the potential increased moisture within ethanol, methanol which remains stagnant, especially within more humid air, environments, thus adverse affects upon steel, iron, some other metals, but much less upon aluminium.
D. Steve Morris notes some damage to the valve springs, which led to breakage within SMX and other engines which sat, unused, not properly, completely flushed from methanol, ethanol use.
Those which attempt to make their claims need to have proper knowledge, thus properly based ideas, concepts, principles before making such claim attempts; these just clearly show their ignorance as plain as their face, like wearing on their sleeves for ALL to SEE.
All The Best, Sincerely
I've been so excited to see Sho'Nuff get down the track. If it was mine, I'd just put a fresh, stock K20 w/ a baby turbo setup in it, dial in 400hp and get some final passes(and logs) on the mountain with it, just to say it ran.
Wth happened to the cams! Whoa
he looks at the gauge with his head in different positions, and I went along with it for a good while and noticed some things... Something tells me they're off 2-3 degrees, I'm only trying to help save you guys cam shafts, honestly. 😰
I would love to see more details about how the degreeing cams is done. Never really understood the process.
@@TurboWorld its not as hard as they make it seem here.
Theres my buddy!!
Jamie finally going k series?!?!
Have you started counting how many engine mishaps have happened in the brother in law? Lol its literally legendary how much hardware pfi goes through 🤘
It split one block and has thrown one rod out of it. Broken 2 cams and dropped a couple valves, not a bad failure rate compared to most in this level of xfwd racing
And keep in mind that’s over 4 years
This was the same engine all year the head had some problems and broke the cams but that was a casting issue with the aftermarket heads, changed the turbo and it unloaded and spun and stretched the rod, to be expected making that much more power with a turbo change
@jamiepfispeed i view broken parts as a right of passage and i respect the grind. Thank you so much for taking the time to respond.
Please share these videos. 🙏
What happened to shonuff
3 dead engines and still smiling
You should have thrown a stock motor in sho’nuff early in the season and just tested the chassis on 3-400hp for a while.
Hey Brent!
Why do u trust in King Engine Bearings? Theyre not good as u think. Never had issues with ACL Race Hx and Mahle Race HX Bearings. I prefer Mahle Race
I only use ACL bearings, never had a single problem with any of them. I did have some kings, got 2 uses out of them… first and last lol. I’m going to use ACL race bearings when I build the bottom end of the jdm k20a in my em1.
@@Ontheregz my friends with gtr r32 Skyline(rb26) had the same issue with King. The coating isnt holding at highboost. King bearings are Made in Isreal. My B18 2l Darton with King Race Bearing was holding only 1 month. Clearence was everytime 0.04mm-0.050mm at rod and Main.
That corrosion has got to be from the fire extinguisher
Ignorance is obvious from this comment !!
I blown my k20a2 this year too doing roll racing my waste gate
Line melt so it over boost 😢😢
they using a honda dampner or a ATI??
Yeah, powder extinguishers are life savers, not equipment savers....
that corrosive cam rust is methonol and e85 in the oil buddy wd40s everything end of the season
More obvious ignorance from these comments !!
Where you burning Alcohol the last time the engine was ran? Was there alky in the oil? That would rust the cams.
Clearly Your attempted claims are not consistent, along with being incorrect, invalid, improper, baseless.
A. As WE know, Brent, Jaime, Shane, Steven, etc. use racing E-85/C-85, not methanol - if You have been following along
B. The possible issues with both ethanol and methanol are with moisture more easily absorbed into stagnant fuel, thus within an engine may result in rust, corrosion developing with iron, steel, not aluminum
C. also both ethanol and methanol fuels which are thinner, have less viscosity than the typical 'gasoline' mixture of many hydrocarbon fuels, have issues with some fuel becoming mixed into the engine oil during operation, cycles from within the cylinders, especially during starting, shut down, without complete ignition, combustion
1. thus the oil become thinner, appears as 'milky'; this occurs more much more with methanol than ethanol as these fellows use
2. The result is not "alky" or alkaline as claimed in the comment
3. Also the oil with the mixture of fuel within does not rust the metal, iron, steel either, because of the high petroleum or synthetic oil base which remains on the surface within these parts, due to the surface tension properties of the oil, as lubrication
D. moist, open air upon the parts, metals, iron, steel is the more common source of moisture that results in oxidation of iron into iron-oxide, rust; not with aluminium;
E. It is helpful to actually know the proper, correct, valid information, knowledge, principle prior to attempting such comments which clearly reveal ignorance, confusion, falsehood thus baseless nonsense; certainly Brent, Jaime, Shane, Steven, etc. know much more than You, as a 'viewer' which are nearly all ignorant 'armchair' mechanics at best and most.
All The Best, Sicnerely
9:29 easter egg...
Ohhhh nooooo 😩😩2023 was mean to the race cars 🙃
Honda's are not designed to go this fast they will always break easy. get a v8!
I can't remember...do y'all run methanol? Leaving that sit can cause some corrosion, but not THAT much. Maybe a combo of that and the fire extinguisher?
was that engine with the rusty cams running on methanol?
Would you build an lsx for me?
Wtf do it yourself buddy
@@MotorSwapDan Don't know how my boy
What happened to all motor phong ?
🤪
There only running car is Samantha smart car. Time for a smart car project 🤓?
shonuff need billet block
That on methanol ?
There's your moisture
They actually use racing E-85/C-85 fuel;
FACTS:neither ethanol or methanol have moisture: Ethanol=C2H6O=Ch3-CH2-OH ; Methanol=CH4O=CH3=OH
These hydrocarbons do absorb more moisture and still ignite compered with common 'gasoline' which is a combination of many forms of hydrocarbon fuels from refined petroleum oil, including some small amounts of methanol, ethanol, many higher order carbon content molecules.
Also why would there be this oxidation, rust on the cam shafts which are outside, above, in the cylinder heads ?? !! It seems there has been significant amounts of moisture in the air there in Colorado since the ICC Event in NE, perhaps including there too during the many rains, especially since the engine was last operating, flowing lubrication oil over these OH-Camshafts; perhaps specifically since the engine was dismantled, removed, sitting in the open air ?!
@PFI Speed; @PFISpeed;
If there are any recorded videos which show the state, status of the cam shafts when the valve covers were first removed post the engine failure, there may be some useful evidence for comparisons => Thus, some information to use with guidance, process, methods regarding stagnant parts which are removed from a previously operating engine, so there will not be such oxidation, iron-oxide, rust development
Am aware that You'All use some type of synthetic engine oil, perhaps transmission, gear oil, bearing lubrication, etc.
Perhaps You will consider using, proving for Yourselves the benefits with the Best available= Amsoil; or at least among the upper level with RoyalPurple,JoeGibbs,Shaeffer's,et al ?
With Amsoil besides the highest quality, durability, reliability, You also have the benefit with becoming a distributor, thus purchase at wholesale and sell with profit too.
All The Best, Sincerely
I wish you’d go back to posting everyday.. I’m being selfish. At least once or twice a week.