I sure wish I would have found this video sooner. I did a 12" roof raise on my 97 AmTran 78 passenger... used 18ga steel for the siding (etched and primed before install to hopefully halt some of the corrosion) but I butted them up and welded the seams between the sheets. In retrospect, overlapping just makes WAY more sense and feel dumb for not having done so.
Funny the music and the demeanor at the end reminds me of an old Canadian PBS show called The Red Green Show and for anyone who loves fixing stuff that's definitely the funniest thing you'll ever watch and you'll never look at a roll of duct tape the same way again.
You know - I will never build a bus. Never had any inclination to head out on the road in an RV, etc. But I have to say - Chuck, you are an amazing presenter. Extremely skilled at bus craft and great at explaining the whats and whys of bus building. I am absolutely mesmerized watching you and the guys work on this bus. Thanks for the entertaining content. I do, however, have a question. Do you and the team build buses for customers? Thanks again!
Love how you take pride in doing quality work. Looking forward to seeing how this bus comes together to make an awesome home on wheels. Your videos are wonderful, and I’m really enjoying them. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@ChuckCassadyYT thankyou sir i appreciate that. Ive been planning on that going into my build but i was unsure if it was possible, ur vids are fantastic btw. New sub. Can you do a video on installing windows into the bus? I have a bunch of rain textured double paned Insulated glass i want to install as windows but im unsure how to go about doing so
I was actually that little kid that watched This Old House and your music is making me smile with the memory! Love all the info, it's really detailed and I'm loving it!!!
The end bloopers lol “WELL DO IT LIVE” thank you for showing so much detail, I didn’t know how rivets works and I never thought about drainage! I can’t wait to come back when I’m doing my rig
Honestly, I believe if these rivets you showed on the back piece were straight as rulerline it wouldn’t look “original” but like “something isn’t quite right. At least that’s how I look at restauraties / modifications. But you don’t use paneling sealant just the rivets? But last but not least, whopping great job, great team you have right there Chuck, Greeting from Haarlem, the Netherlands!
If anyone anywhere ever asks why it costs what it does to raise a skoolie roof, just show this video. If you want it done right, this is how to do it. Excellent video - excellent work!
thanks for watching ronald, i couldnt afford a bus unless i built it, ill tell ya that. and this build is very slow because i sure dont make enough to go fast when im spending my own money!
Been looking for a year, and found the bus I want - 1997 Thomas flat nose rear engine 38’. Big thanks to suggestions from Ben. Cummins/Allison. Air brakes.
I'm already feeling so much smarter. Building know hows/what nots all awhile learning another language(skoolie building biz terms). Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Love love love the bloopers.
I can tell you watch Vice Grip Garage as well. Looks great! I am learning a good deal. I am still three years out till I start my skoolie project. Greetings from Nashville, Tennessee.
Beautiful work Charlie as usual my friend I've been using the closed end rivets for 25 years it's what make the difference between doing it right or a leaky pig forever just my opinion. Great video keep them coming.
@@ChuckCassadyYT it's kinda funny how some people don't even think of such a simple product be used will save hundreds of hours resealing the wrong rivets.
Hear hear! I've been an aircraft sheetmetal guy for the last 16 years and yeah... watching so many people do amazing things with their buses but still use hollow pop rivets instead of cored fasteners like Cherrymax always makes me cringe a little!
For the welded parts, I'm thinking about "brush electroplating zinc" to re-plate the steel prior to paint. Basically a sponge covering an electrode, some zinc plating solution, and a DC power supply. They have kits online with electroplating wands and solution, or they can be made from common materials... It could have other cool uses too, like plating your own parts, especially undercarriage steel parts like water tank frames. I think there is a dip galvanizing place close by I could use for larger parts.
I would love for you to raise the roof on mine 12”, move the rear door panel forward 8’ but leave the roof over the 6’ section of floor but still want the oem windows back in it instead of a full side skin like that. That 8’ rear section will be for a gooseneck ball and golf cart, scooters or bikes when going camping
do you have any tips on replacing these structural blind rivets? I messed up on a few and had to take them out, but now the hole is bigger so I cant put in another 1/4" rivet. Thanks boss man your videos have helped tremendously with my roof raise and sheet metaling.
@chuck 20:06 is there any kind of tool, like a counter sink, that could de-burr right after the hole gets made? I googled it for you :P Looks like Freer sells one, SKU: FTS-BB75CCH2650
Chuck I'm converting a shuttle bus and had to discard (from the inside out) fiberglass interior wall, plywood/ insulation, and exterior fiberglass skin (and roof) due to water damage. Now we're considering how to skin it, and we're thinking metal roof... Any reason I can't skin the roof and sides in metal directly on the steel ribs? Do you put any sealant/ glue where you're riveting together? Love your videos.
I'm super OCD, and I have to ask, do pop rivets really match the solid OEM rivets visually?? How about the potential of water ingress through the center portion of the rivet? I'm considering solid rivets, but I know I'll regret that once I'm actually doing it.
I see on the full sheets along the sides, you rivet vertically through the hat channel flanges, and horizontally through the rub rail holes, but I didn't see anything horizontal along the top of the sheets. Did I just miss that or are you relying solely on it being wedged in under the j channel on the top of the sheets? Thanks Chuck, I really appreciate you.
How wide do you get your precut skins? I'm trying to figure out what it'll take to skin a 91' Bluebird that already has a 20" roof raise. 😁 Your videos are awesome btw, you've definitely saved us from a lot of "well now we have to tear things apart and re-do them" moments!
Love the content but id make a cheap pointing stick with a foam finger or something at the end... The camera keeps refocusing on your finger when you're trying to highlight a feature :)
@@ChuckCassadyYT Thank you! We're thinking of using self-tapping screws to attach the delete to the post so the vibrations don't pull from the vertical plane. Have you tried this before?
@@mznix1971 screws will vibrate loose over time and will actually back all the way out. Don’t try and reinvent the wheel here! It’s not rocket science and we have one of the best bus guys trying to show you the best way to do all this so just take notes and follow the riven methods that will last the life of the bus and and provide a safe vehicle for you!
I didn’t see you de-burr the holes, did you do that off camera and then started filming when you set the rivets, or did you just skip that part? Or is the demurring done on the inside? I’m not trolling you, I just want to understand the process.
I only deburr holes when they need it. Luckily Ty who was doing the drilling is good at clearing the burrs from the inside with his drill technique so I only have to deburr a few
Charlie! BX here . . . Glad to find you on your new vid chapter with joy and pride! Awesome. Found a F-E450 w/ Power Stroke 7.3 Liter Turbo Diesel Short just like Alyssa's!!! Any chance I can reach you? (My e-mail is not working . . .)
When you apply the epoxy primer do you need to sand the newly applied sheet metal for proper adhesion? If so is their a certain grit that will avoid biting into the coating
What are your thoughts on sealants between the rivets along the rivet line? I’ve seen a lot of people go overboard with sealant, but didn’t seem like you used any for the skin?
Have you released the video for that process yet?^ doing my raise next week and was planning on sealing the seams and wet riveting but absolutely open to whatever Chuck says
Chuck, why do you guys not seal the sheets? I’m sure you use caulking where it overlaps and where it talks under the rub rail and under the drip edge. We’ve always used sealant on every sheet and I just wondered why you guys do not?
Could you adapt your galvanese (sp?) steel to horse trailers? So many horse trailers on the road that rust out, so aluminum becomes the alternative. Just throwing out an idea. Thank you!!
love the videos, great information. Wondering what type of metal for the rivets youd recommend? looks like they have aluminum, stainless, etc. so many choices. thank you sir
Anyway we can get a tour of that green bus. I NEED a roof raise on my 1967 GM TDH-4519 city transit bus, I'm 6 foot 5 inches tall and I want a lot of insulation for when I move to Alaska
Do you scoot the side panels as high under the window gutter as possible? I have a 01 international 3800 full length and the distance from the window gutter to above the first rib actually varies. Thank you for the video, it's very helpful!
Really appreciate the video. Did you put any sealant between the panels at all? I saw that you had to remove sealant but didn’t see you put any back. Im concerned about being watertight as I live in a really wet climate. Any issues without sealant?
I’m curious about this also. I seen him comment on another saying he adds sealant after, but I am curious as to how. Would it be better to do one panel at a time adding Sikaflex?
Great videos, mate! They've been helpful. I just picked up my galvanneal and I'm about to try and hang it. I was wondering about priming/painting the galvanneal. It seems like there will be parts that are inaccessible after it's riveted, why don't we prime/paint the sheets before hanging?
I sure wish I would have found this video sooner. I did a 12" roof raise on my 97 AmTran 78 passenger... used 18ga steel for the siding (etched and primed before install to hopefully halt some of the corrosion) but I butted them up and welded the seams between the sheets. In retrospect, overlapping just makes WAY more sense and feel dumb for not having done so.
Funny the music and the demeanor at the end reminds me of an old Canadian PBS show called The Red Green Show and for anyone who loves fixing stuff that's definitely the funniest thing you'll ever watch and you'll never look at a roll of duct tape the same way again.
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
Red Green
You know - I will never build a bus. Never had any inclination to head out on the road in an RV, etc. But I have to say - Chuck, you are an amazing presenter. Extremely skilled at bus craft and great at explaining the whats and whys of bus building. I am absolutely mesmerized watching you and the guys work on this bus. Thanks for the entertaining content. I do, however, have a question. Do you and the team build buses for customers? Thanks again!
Thank you! We did, but we are closing down for the time being
Love how you take pride in doing quality work. Looking forward to seeing how this bus comes together to make an awesome home on wheels. Your videos are wonderful, and I’m really enjoying them. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
thank you nancy! means a lot to share this with you
@@ChuckCassadyYT do you think it would be possible to extend the upper roof over the windsheild a few feet and create an rv style nook bed?
I've seen it done!
@@ChuckCassadyYT thankyou sir i appreciate that. Ive been planning on that going into my build but i was unsure if it was possible, ur vids are fantastic btw. New sub. Can you do a video on installing windows into the bus? I have a bunch of rain textured double paned Insulated glass i want to install as windows but im unsure how to go about doing so
@@beansbulletsandbandages891 it's coming
Beautiful Work! You make it look so easy but that is because you and your team are experienced.
thank you phillip, we do our best!
Loved the O’Reilly reference at the end. 😂😂
Definitely one of the best roof raises I've seen.
Brilliant! Stellar! Really appreciate these step-by-step guides. The Bill O'Reilly reference at the end killed me! 🤣
Hahahaj glad you liked that one!
Great video you can tell that you've maybe done this once before. Nice step by step guide.
How do you prepare the galvanized metal for paint? BTW... you are the best and most generous builder!
I was actually that little kid that watched This Old House and your music is making me smile with the memory! Love all the info, it's really detailed and I'm loving it!!!
Thanks! Im that kid, too!
Am I really the only one to say that was absolutely riveting chaps!?!?!?! (tee hee)
glad someone said it!
Gotta say I super impressed with your attention to detail
Great job BUT... why no goopy sealant between the seams? I noticed you removed sealant from the original seams but didn't use any on the new seams.
The end bloopers lol “WELL DO IT LIVE” thank you for showing so much detail, I didn’t know how rivets works and I never thought about drainage! I can’t wait to come back when I’m doing my rig
Absoutly love the humor and the bloopers
Honestly, I believe if these rivets you showed on the back piece were straight as rulerline it wouldn’t look “original” but like “something isn’t quite right. At least that’s how I look at restauraties / modifications. But you don’t use paneling sealant just the rivets? But last but not least, whopping great job, great team you have right there Chuck, Greeting from Haarlem, the Netherlands!
thanks, Chuck I don't know what I would do without your knowledge I would be lost lol
Glad to help!
Another awesome video packed full of information. You guys make it look so easy! Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
You bet! its not always this easy ;) thank you!
Awesome, thanks! I just finished my roof raise and this will basically be my next step!
Glad I could help!
Hi there and I will never do a bus but it has been so enjoyable watching these videos. It truly was interesting. Thanks for sharing us.
Funny, I saw a team lift the top on a bus, finished it. But when they went to pull it out, didn't fit through the door... lol
Hey, stop making me fall in love with buses
hahaha sorry!
If anyone anywhere ever asks why it costs what it does to raise a skoolie roof, just show this video. If you want it done right, this is how to do it. Excellent video - excellent work!
Thank you!
Another awesome video. You guys do great work. Gotta be hard to break up the dream team? Thanks for sharing.
Love the bob villa music intro and outgoing comments. Just love your work. Only wish I could afford this but would love to build a bus
thanks for watching ronald, i couldnt afford a bus unless i built it, ill tell ya that. and this build is very slow because i sure dont make enough to go fast when im spending my own money!
@@ChuckCassadyYT very true buses are expensive when built right but they last a hell of a lot longer that any other RV out there.
Great job. I can see the pride you put into your work. Can’t wait for the next video. You do amazing work. 👍👍👍👍👍
Been looking for a year, and found the bus I want - 1997 Thomas flat nose rear engine 38’. Big thanks to suggestions from Ben. Cummins/Allison. Air brakes.
I'm already feeling so much smarter. Building know hows/what nots all awhile learning another language(skoolie building biz terms). Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Love love love the bloopers.
happy to help nancy! Im flattered ;)
Is there not a sealant that goes behind the panels on seems or rivet holes to prevent ingress?
Thanks for sharing your how to's. Great tips, keep'em coming!
Hey Charlie. I found you by following Regretlyss but you sir are a natural storyteller. Loving the series and looking forward to more.
Welcome aboard! Ill do my best to fill her shoes :)
That is amazing such an incredible craftsman.
Definitely better now it’s bigger! Loving the series Charlie, great work 👍🏻👍🏻
id agree paul! thank you
So professional. You should be proud of your work!
Thanks William!
High quality information, well made video.
Thanks for another one Chuck. I’m skipping the roof raise, still enjoy the videos though and learn something. Cheers!
Finally... some actual build video... Love It!!! Excellent work!
Glad you like it! gonna have a lot of it coming!
We're building a skoolie right now. This channel is saving our bootys. Thanks braddas! Keep makin these great instructional videos .. Thomasbuslife...
More to come!
I can tell you watch Vice Grip Garage as well. Looks great! I am learning a good deal. I am still three years out till I start my skoolie project. Greetings from Nashville, Tennessee.
VGG is one of my heroes, that guy is so cool and cracks me up. And you can tell he's a great person
increible trabajo, sigo cada uno de tus videos, gracias por compratir el árte de tu trabajo y conocimientos, saludos
Great video again. Great content. I cant see how your channel wont get crazy amounts of subscribers.
Thank you! I'm hoping!
The buses with a roof raise have a look of a shuttle bus since the metal over where the windows use to be look a lot larger.
Impressive process! Great job. I can see you take great pride and satisfaction on a job super well done. :-)
we try, thanks for noticing :)
Beautiful work Charlie as usual my friend
I've been using the closed end rivets for 25 years it's what make the difference between doing it right or a leaky pig forever just my opinion. Great video keep them coming.
ah brian, a fellow riveteer! yes, theyre awesome fasteners!
@@ChuckCassadyYT it's kinda funny how some people don't even think of such a simple product be used will save hundreds of hours resealing the wrong rivets.
@@briandavis9975 1000%
Hear hear! I've been an aircraft sheetmetal guy for the last 16 years and yeah... watching so many people do amazing things with their buses but still use hollow pop rivets instead of cored fasteners like Cherrymax always makes me cringe a little!
You only make that mistake once
Another great video Charlie! So glad to see Ben and Ty.
working with them is the best! thank you
Looks great new to Chanel!
Thanks so much for these videos This information is invaluable
For the welded parts, I'm thinking about "brush electroplating zinc" to re-plate the steel prior to paint. Basically a sponge covering an electrode, some zinc plating solution, and a DC power supply. They have kits online with electroplating wands and solution, or they can be made from common materials... It could have other cool uses too, like plating your own parts, especially undercarriage steel parts like water tank frames. I think there is a dip galvanizing place close by I could use for larger parts.
sounds like a good plan if you can!
Very nice brother
I would love for you to raise the roof on mine 12”, move the rear door panel forward 8’ but leave the roof over the 6’ section of floor but still want the oem windows back in it instead of a full side skin like that. That 8’ rear section will be for a gooseneck ball and golf cart, scooters or bikes when going camping
Learning quite a lot from these vids!! Thanx Chuck and essential team!!!
thank you for watching!
I was wondering if there was anything behind the sheets at the joints for water proofing?
I add sealer before exterior paint
do you have any tips on replacing these structural blind rivets? I messed up on a few and had to take them out, but now the hole is bigger so I cant put in another 1/4" rivet. Thanks boss man your videos have helped tremendously with my roof raise and sheet metaling.
i found the answer, put a washer on the backside and it will grip
@chuck 20:06 is there any kind of tool, like a counter sink, that could de-burr right after the hole gets made? I googled it for you :P Looks like Freer sells one, SKU: FTS-BB75CCH2650
We do deburr holes after we drill them but only if there is a dangler
Buna sunteti tare deste fan multam vb❤❤❤❤❤❤
Nicely done, very instructional in a way that was easy to follow along. Hope to convert a school bus someday soon. Thanks for the awesome channel.
Looks great, you all make it look way to easy. Awesome job.
Chuck I'm converting a shuttle bus and had to discard (from the inside out) fiberglass interior wall, plywood/ insulation, and exterior fiberglass skin (and roof) due to water damage. Now we're considering how to skin it, and we're thinking metal roof... Any reason I can't skin the roof and sides in metal directly on the steel ribs? Do you put any sealant/ glue where you're riveting together? Love your videos.
What did you end up doing?
Great video as always...
Very well done.
Killin it! Looks great!
Thank you so much!
Love your quality work brother. Glad you’re doing videos.
Much appreciated!!
Very cool really informative 👍
Hey Charlie.
When you're hanging the sheets on the side. How do you know where the rivet holes are. Do you drill out from the inside of the bus to make your mark?
wondered the same thing - maybe they don't show that to hide the "tricks of the trade" Seems like how they would do it like you said.
Quality content, thanks Chuck.
Thank you! Means a lot to me
Did I miss the sealant you use at the joints, between the sheets and between the rivets?
The Norm Abrams of the Schoolie world. Is there a reason you don't use sealant under the lap joints besides that it's messy?
Where are you guys located ??? Great work.
I'm super OCD, and I have to ask, do pop rivets really match the solid OEM rivets visually?? How about the potential of water ingress through the center portion of the rivet? I'm considering solid rivets, but I know I'll regret that once I'm actually doing it.
Another awesome video, Charlie! Can’t wait for more.
I hope this isn't at stupid question. But those black strips on the bus. Can those be removed or no
where do you get electro galvanized sheeting in western Washington?
Wouldn't it be a good idea to add a seam sealer between all of the overlaps where all the rivets are? Or are the rivets really all that's needed? 🤔
you certaintly could. I add the seamsealer after. its in my next video!
Hi Chuck, some great advice and tips here.
Would you mind sharing a supplier for the 18g galvannealed sheets?
Thank you!
I get them locally from a company called h & h. They are not national
I see on the full sheets along the sides, you rivet vertically through the hat channel flanges, and horizontally through the rub rail holes, but I didn't see anything horizontal along the top of the sheets. Did I just miss that or are you relying solely on it being wedged in under the j channel on the top of the sheets? Thanks Chuck, I really appreciate you.
I’ve been wondering this as well. Might need to ask during one of his live streams
How wide do you get your precut skins? I'm trying to figure out what it'll take to skin a 91' Bluebird that already has a 20" roof raise. 😁 Your videos are awesome btw, you've definitely saved us from a lot of "well now we have to tear things apart and re-do them" moments!
Thomas was always first on my black ball list. Thomas bases are narrower at the top than the floor, meaning none of the walls are straight.
Love the content but id make a cheap pointing stick with a foam finger or something at the end... The camera keeps refocusing on your finger when you're trying to highlight a feature :)
thank you! thats a great and hilarious idea
what kind of adhesive should be used between the sheets?
How would you delete a single window on a bus without a roof raise? Is the technique the same?
Amazing videos! I love your attention to detail!!!
It's nearly the same! Skoolie.com sells custom window deletes just for that!
@@ChuckCassadyYT Thank you! We're thinking of using self-tapping screws to attach the delete to the post so the vibrations don't pull from the vertical plane. Have you tried this before?
@@mznix1971 we use rivets for that kind of thing
@@mznix1971 screws will vibrate loose over time and will actually back all the way out.
Don’t try and reinvent the wheel here! It’s not rocket science and we have one of the best bus guys trying to show you the best way to do all this so just take notes and follow the riven methods that will last the life of the bus and and provide a safe vehicle for you!
HI there! I think this part I should hired some one to do it. How much some one will ask for this job?
I didn’t see you de-burr the holes, did you do that off camera and then started filming when you set the rivets, or did you just skip that part? Or is the demurring done on the inside? I’m not trolling you, I just want to understand the process.
I only deburr holes when they need it. Luckily Ty who was doing the drilling is good at clearing the burrs from the inside with his drill technique so I only have to deburr a few
Could you possibly show the ones you want to redo and why? Were they damaged and not sitting flush? or are you having to weld material to patch?
Charlie! BX here . . . Glad to find you on your new vid chapter with joy and pride! Awesome. Found a F-E450 w/ Power Stroke 7.3 Liter Turbo Diesel Short just like Alyssa's!!! Any chance I can reach you? (My e-mail is not working . . .)
Welcome aboard! email is the only way im really reachable
Do you use a panel bond between the new and old paneling?
Any sealant between the sheets/lap joints?
Curious why you don’t use any sealant/silicone on the panels to prevent vibration noise? Looked like they had it before… love the vids.
the spray foam insulation will take care of that! great question though
When you apply the epoxy primer do you need to sand the newly applied sheet metal for proper adhesion? If so is their a certain grit that will avoid biting into the coating
What are your thoughts on sealants between the rivets along the rivet line? I’ve seen a lot of people go overboard with sealant, but didn’t seem like you used any for the skin?
I'll seal the seams from outside before paint!
Have you released the video for that process yet?^ doing my raise next week and was planning on sealing the seams and wet riveting but absolutely open to whatever Chuck says
This is beautiful but do you use any sealant on your seams?
Prior to paint the seams will get sealed
Chuck, why do you guys not seal the sheets? I’m sure you use caulking where it overlaps and where it talks under the rub rail and under the drip edge. We’ve always used sealant on every sheet and I just wondered why you guys do not?
Lemme know
Could you adapt your galvanese (sp?) steel to horse trailers? So many horse trailers on the road that rust out, so aluminum becomes the alternative. Just throwing out an idea. Thank you!!
i dont see why not, but then again, i dont know much about horses or trailers haha :)
love the videos, great information. Wondering what type of metal for the rivets youd recommend? looks like they have aluminum, stainless, etc. so many choices. thank you sir
Avdel Interlock SSPI-08-06
Anyway we can get a tour of that green bus. I NEED a roof raise on my 1967 GM TDH-4519 city transit bus, I'm 6 foot 5 inches tall and I want a lot of insulation for when I move to Alaska
It's coming!
Maybe I missed it but is there anything between sheets of metal ? For weather proofing
I should explain better lol, where you rivet the skins to the hat post? Is where I was thinking
it will get seam sealer prior to paint!
@@ChuckCassadyYT so nothing actually goes in between the sheets ?
Nope
Do you scoot the side panels as high under the window gutter as possible? I have a 01 international 3800 full length and the distance from the window gutter to above the first rib actually varies. Thank you for the video, it's very helpful!
Really appreciate the video. Did you put any sealant between the panels at all? I saw that you had to remove sealant but didn’t see you put any back. Im concerned about being watertight as I live in a really wet climate. Any issues without sealant?
I’m curious about this also. I seen him comment on another saying he adds sealant after, but I am curious as to how. Would it be better to do one panel at a time adding Sikaflex?
On the sheet metal roof raise. What sealant are you using? Thanks
Great videos, mate! They've been helpful. I just picked up my galvanneal and I'm about to try and hang it. I was wondering about priming/painting the galvanneal. It seems like there will be parts that are inaccessible after it's riveted, why don't we prime/paint the sheets before hanging?
No real reason to paint something that is already galvanized but it wouldn't hurt