1st job I had back in the 70s was working for Carolina tool and equipment in travelers rest south Carolina. I built the hydraulic cylinders that controls the feed rate. They are really a tough built saw. I'm just starting my bus build and find your channel has easy to understand and follow information thanks
I had forgotten that l should be doing this closer to the start of the build. I had already planned for all the wiring systems to be placed. Thank for the reminder.
02:42 a) Stainless steel bolts are equivalent to Grade Two, approximately as strong as fasteners from the grocery-store. . b) How do you reduce galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals?
yep , and almost nothing worse than aluminium and stainless. Im a marine electrician . its ok to use stainless and aluminium .......sailboat masts are a prime example of stainless on aluminium .....Probably should have used a stainless washer ...THEN a nylon or delrin washer between the SS washer and the L bracket washer
Great video Chuck! When can we see you lift the bus by the solar rack? That would be amazing! But the splice with the self tappers might be a weak point. Just kidding and all joking aside, you are definitely making the most informative skoolie conversion videos on youtube. No doubt. Thanks.
Some Viewer Input: Your videos are excellent. I'm not even complaining, just giving feedback on how to improve (in my opinion). I take extensive notes as I watch and I am writing and pausing and drawing diagrams. You usually begin by showing us the materials and explain what they're used for, but we have no idea what you mean yet because we haven't seen you do it yet. Maybe it's just me, but I'd prefer an introduction to the product as you are using it so I can hear you explain and see it in its application. Then you can do a table spread of everything needed or a written power point list we can screen shot or whatever. I just find that you give info during the product introduction that pertains to the actual doing--then 30 min later in the video when you're at the doing part, you may not mention stuff you mentioned earlier..which requires watching an hour long video again or going back in my notes trying to combine what I wrote. Does that make sense? So on page one of my notes I have all this info about a process I haven't seen, then by the time you show us, I'm 30 min in and on page 5 of writing so now I have to go back to page one and combine what I said from page one in page 5. Just my personal way of doing things I guess. I like step by step which is why I love your teaching method..I just think it can get jumping around..ya know? Does anyone else think this while taking notes?
I like the system. Unfortunately I have an RV that is already built but I so have steel supports in the roof so I guess I could use sheet metal screws. Keep the good stuff coming.
On the Skoolie Planet group, I run into Jonathan Roberts frequently. I was surprised to hear you mention him when I watched the video again at 3:25. Thanks for being helpful, and I definitely need to check this out when I get around to the solar portion of my shuttle bus.
I haven't done mine yet. But I've planned to so 2x1 aluminum tubing perpendicular to the rails for support and wood planks across those. Hope that helps
Be aware the Hat Channels are different for each bus manufacturer. My International takes 3” bolts not 3 1/2”. If you order the L brackets know that they do not come with bolts as many catalogues wrongly picture them. To save some money, buy 1” stainless hex bolts and Stainless serrated nuts for half the cost of Iron Ridge’s fasteners.
I was planning on using Unistrut, but this seems affordable enough to be a great alternative. I’m going to contact my local distributor to see how much it is if I pick it up.
Bob Vila was hired as a showman based on comparatively limited experience and notoriety in 1979. I have yet to actually see Bob Vila do any on-camera carpentry work but he was great on-camera as a host, which he was hired for. Tom Silva has actual hands-on experience and real world know-how as a carpenter and contractor and has definitely grown into his on-camera persona. I wouldn't compare Bob Vila to Tom Silva, nor would I compare Chuck Cassidy to Bob Vila (I would consider that a step down for Chuck Cassidy who is much more than a showman), but I would credit Chuck Cassidy for his stellar integrity and genuine concern for his real-world craft and skill and talent, which I believe is on par with Tom Silva, as both men are true craftsmen/tradesmen in their respective fields. Just my two cents.
Chuck, your content is the best. Have you found a suitable cross bar and hardware and method to tie these rails together for attaching rooftop decking etc? I have a transit van and it has 10 mounting points. I was thinking about purchasing 10 extra l mounts and mounting them upside down and bolting cross rails out of rectangular aluminum tubing. Thoughts???
Another nice video , rack is 70 5/16 cxc apart , just wondering what is the size of solar panels length and witch and space you leave between panels also panel make and watts. thanks again .
Love the video and this system saves welding up a custom aluminum rack. Do know if iron ridge makes cross bars to connect the XR1000 across the bus. I may be able to mount more panels if I put them in pairs longways. Mine are 40" wide by 66" long so a pair is 80" across the bus and 66" long. So 4 panels up front and 4 in the back with a hatch in the middle. If I do them 66" across the bus they are tucked up away from the edge more but I get less. I'm trying to get at least 2k or more. My panels are 335w x8 would be 2680w.
Chuck, I meant to ask you this question during the solar racking premiere but you made it so dang interesting and informative that I completely forgot about the hvac question I have for my bus. As I was looking thru the pioneer systems on line earlier today, I came across one mini split system with a cartridge ceiling air handler that is like 12”x12” square that gets recessed into the ceiling and the other is a unit that mounts inside a bench at the dining table or under a bed or inside a couch and has 2 1/2” round duct that channels the heat/air where you want it. My question is, have you used either of these systems yet and how did you like them if you did? They look fantastic and you don’t have the big wall unit to deal with and it would be a much cleaner As I was looking at them, the question “What would Chuck do” kept running thru my mind so I was hoping you could tell me please. What Chuck would do!
The under bench units look super easy to install but they are not as efficient unfortunately.as for the ceiling unit, that looks awesome but it does stick up pretty high so I've never done one
@@ChuckCassadyYT you are correct about the height of the ceiling cartridge unit and it would be thicker than almost any ceiling you would put in but I do have a simple solution that would work great and I think I’m gonna try it in my bus. If you cut a hole in the roof for the cartridge to mount where it needs to mount, then make a sheet metal box on your fancy brake with a bolt or rivet flange running around the perimeter and put a strip of the butyl tape between the roof and the flange to seal, I think it would work well. Most of your subs are probly cringing about cutting a hole in the roof but it’s no different than a roof a/c unit or a roof fan penetration. Seal it properly with good materials and it will never leak.
Would you recommend anything different for installing a solar roof rack on a shuttle bus with a fiberglass roof? About to do mine and really don’t want to mess this up
Aren't school buses mostly made of steel. Wouldn't it be better to use steel brackets so that you don't get galvanic corrosions that occur from putting different metals together?
Yes. Steel would be a better choice especially due to dynamic loading that a rack on a bus would experience, since aluminum work hardens without a plateau like steel does. Galvanic corrosion might not be too bad but you will always get some because there's still a conductive path between the bracket and the roof via the bolt touching the bracket, and the nut touching the hat channel, which touches the roof. As I'm sure you know; doesn't matter how long the conductive path is, just that it's there
I am in the process of doing a solar rail installation on my skoolie using this video as a guide. I have run into areas where the rivets on the bus roof seams where the hat channels are get in the way of the mounting brackets need to be to be over the hat channel. The bulge of the rivet prevents the bracket from sitting flush. Did you encounter this? Any recommended solutions? Thanks for all your videos!
How many rolls of butyl do you usually use on a full size bus Solar racks? I’ve got less than a whole roll left and don’t wanna begin shorthand on butyl
Also have you ever put out a list of order for construction of building? Like in what order you do all of the jobs? Obviously l should have asked before but l just realized that I could have buggered myself up by failure to install roof racks at the right time.
Did you use rusty metal primer all across the inside of your roof? Looks clean, and I considered it, wasn’t sure how necessary it was with closed cell spray foam
What are the rub rail looking things on the roof? I don’t have them on my bus, but they don’t look like something you added so I’m curious what their function is/was? Thank you! Great video, I’m saving it and will follow along once roof work is happening.
when an L foot sits on top of some rivets, is the aluminum foot and the butyl enough to prop it up/insulate around the rivet? just wanna make sure they'll sit well on top of those bumpy rivets
Would this system work at all for those with the ceiling already installed? Any tips (aside from going back in time and doing it in the proper order 🥴)?
70 5/16" width between rails - how wide are your panels?? Wondering how much overhang I should leave for the sides of my panels, I got 72" wide panels and im thinking about 6"-12" overhang on each end?
Hi Chuck :) Do you have any thoughts/experience with the flexible solar panels that are attached directly to the roof with adhesive? I'd like my solar to be as incognito as possible 😎
Again, I could have used this video months back. 🤷🏼♀️ I used unistrut mounted with 3/8” bolts into rivenuts on my roof. I laid the rails on top of hockey pucks that were set into a bed of dicor tape, with sikaflex (evil cousin of 5200) around edge & dollop on top. We just went through the eye of hurricane Ian in the bus. The 155 mph sustained winds & gusts of the first eye wall didn’t do any damage, we had our bow just off the wind. But the second eye wall hit us broadside with 170 mph gusts before I could get her fired up and moved. The first whomp had me running to the drivers seat and starting the bus, the second whomp took 2 of my solar panels and tossed them 100 ft away, the third whomp took the last 4 panels and all my mounting rails & hardware and laid them on top of first 2. All within what seemed like seconds but was actually a couple of minutes. The bad news ….. I have to replace the panels & hardware. The good news …… I have a wind rating for my mounting system and it’s higher than any speed I’ll ever drive 🤣🤣 I am going to beef up the racks with larger bolts and rivenuts. Unfortunately my bus is already built out inside so I can’t go back and through bolt, but the rivenuts into the roof channel are a strong mount and will be fine, especially with being beefed up a bit, and no more hurricanes. 🤣😁👍🏻
Three questions! 1) Why antiseize if the solar mounting interior nuts will be inaccessible? Wouldn't SS cold weld be a good thing? 2) Any tips on how you might modify your technique with an intact already-converted nice ceiling? e.g. PlusNuts? 3) Have you done a video on the plumbing system yet or is that coming up? Thanks for this video and any answers you can help with.
1) it will gall and seize before its tight. No good 2) def use plus nuts and not rivnuts, and I'd shoot for ribs or places where it's doubled, the skins on roofs is very thin sometimes 3) you can always search my videos, but I have not done a plumbing video. They are released in chronological order as I build
@@ChuckCassadyYT Good to know, thanks! I will be following your build videos with interest. I had searched but didn't find a plumbing video, but sometimes it's hard to remember that even though you've done so many conversions you didn't video them!
ACK! I stand by my assertion that men NEVER put enough (or big enough) windows in the design. Show me a skoolie, and I'll tell you the sex of the designer! 🙄
Using epoxy to glue aluminium will eventually fail. Oxygen will get under the epoxy and the aluminium will oxidise creating aluminium oxide which will break the epoxy. If you want to glue aluminium with epoxy you need to chemical etch the surface and then anodise. This is how Lotus cars are made.
@@ChuckCassadyYT It does, but the oxidation continues. With anodising the oxide layer is built up relatively thick. I've known people who have glued aluminium with epoxy in this way and it's stood up for quite a while and then fails - almost always. It's not just Lotus who etches and glues, aluminium aircraft are built this way also and they do it for a reason. Chuck, I like your channel a lot. I'm going to do a truck conversion in the future and you've both confirmed a lot of the design decisions I've already made and also given me a lot of information I didn't know, so big thanks. I can see the quality of your work is very high and you're a clever guy. Actually, you're the only channel I've seen that has got proper control of thermal insulation. So many I see are doing it wrong or badly and it's just a big waste of time and money. No fun living in either a cold or a a damp truck. Anyway, on this issue I think you need to do a bit more research.
Thanks for taking the apprehension out of drilling holes in my perfectly water tight roof...
understandable!
1st job I had back in the 70s was working for Carolina tool and equipment in travelers rest south Carolina. I built the hydraulic cylinders that controls the feed rate. They are really a tough built saw. I'm just starting my bus build and find your channel has easy to understand and follow information thanks
I was about to buy a bevel box when I remembered my phone can do the same thing with the Measure app.
You just saved me $40
Can you be more precise on this app?
Thank you for what you are doing. Building out a Chevy Astro and I come away from every video with a nugget of gold I can apply to my build.
I had forgotten that l should be doing this closer to the start of the build. I had already planned for all the wiring systems to be placed. Thank for the reminder.
02:42
a)
Stainless steel bolts are equivalent to Grade Two, approximately as strong as fasteners from the grocery-store.
.
b)
How do you reduce galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals?
yep , and almost nothing worse than aluminium and stainless. Im a marine electrician . its ok to use stainless and aluminium .......sailboat masts are a prime example of stainless on aluminium .....Probably should have used a stainless washer ...THEN a nylon or delrin washer between the SS washer and the L bracket
washer
Great video and information. Do you know if the company created the angled ‘L’ brackets yet?
Thank U so much for all the free content. It is so helpful
Great video Chuck! When can we see you lift the bus by the solar rack? That would be amazing! But the splice with the self tappers might be a weak point. Just kidding and all joking aside, you are definitely making the most informative skoolie conversion videos on youtube. No doubt. Thanks.
hahah man, people would click on that video
Hi, Chuck. Could you post a link for the angled L brackets you mentioned? Thanks
Almost always entertaining. This one is. Thanks.
Some Viewer Input: Your videos are excellent. I'm not even complaining, just giving feedback on how to improve (in my opinion). I take extensive notes as I watch and I am writing and pausing and drawing diagrams. You usually begin by showing us the materials and explain what they're used for, but we have no idea what you mean yet because we haven't seen you do it yet. Maybe it's just me, but I'd prefer an introduction to the product as you are using it so I can hear you explain and see it in its application. Then you can do a table spread of everything needed or a written power point list we can screen shot or whatever. I just find that you give info during the product introduction that pertains to the actual doing--then 30 min later in the video when you're at the doing part, you may not mention stuff you mentioned earlier..which requires watching an hour long video again or going back in my notes trying to combine what I wrote. Does that make sense? So on page one of my notes I have all this info about a process I haven't seen, then by the time you show us, I'm 30 min in and on page 5 of writing so now I have to go back to page one and combine what I said from page one in page 5. Just my personal way of doing things I guess. I like step by step which is why I love your teaching method..I just think it can get jumping around..ya know? Does anyone else think this while taking notes?
Love your channel! Especially the "This Old House" vibes in the opening and ending bits! ❤
you should do more videos of solar installs
just go watch a real solar builder.
I like the system. Unfortunately I have an RV that is already built but I so have steel supports in the roof so I guess I could use sheet metal screws. Keep the good stuff coming.
On the Skoolie Planet group, I run into Jonathan Roberts frequently. I was surprised to hear you mention him when I watched the video again at 3:25. Thanks for being helpful, and I definitely need to check this out when I get around to the solar portion of my shuttle bus.
Hi Chuck. I've been looking for a video of how to install your wall board and how to cut out outlet and wire holes spot on.
have you made a video of you installing the panels using this system?
Ive done this and now trying to figure out good horizontal supports/joists to use for decking. Anyone figure out a good solution?
I haven't done mine yet. But I've planned to so 2x1 aluminum tubing perpendicular to the rails for support and wood planks across those. Hope that helps
Chuck can you show how to attach decking with the IronRidge system?
Was looking at this system, your video confirmed everything. Ordered and picking up tomorrow while I'm traveling to MA. Thanks..
What system is it
cool looking sunrader can't wait to see ya work on that one....
Be aware the Hat Channels are different for each bus manufacturer. My International takes 3” bolts not 3 1/2”. If you order the L brackets know that they do not come with bolts as many catalogues wrongly picture them. To save some money, buy 1” stainless hex bolts and Stainless serrated nuts for half the cost of Iron Ridge’s fasteners.
That is a nice solid mounting system and great execution.
Thanks!
Hi Chuck. I've been hunting for a video on installing the walls and how to put holes in for out let's and wiring.
another awesome and informative video
Very informative, Chuck.
Thanks guys !!
I was planning on using Unistrut, but this seems affordable enough to be a great alternative. I’m going to contact my local distributor to see how much it is if I pick it up.
its worth it!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
The Bob Vila of School Bus Conversions
Bob Vila was hired as a showman based on comparatively limited experience and notoriety in 1979. I have yet to actually see Bob Vila do any on-camera carpentry work but he was great on-camera as a host, which he was hired for. Tom Silva has actual hands-on experience and real world know-how as a carpenter and contractor and has definitely grown into his on-camera persona.
I wouldn't compare Bob Vila to Tom Silva, nor would I compare Chuck Cassidy to Bob Vila (I would consider that a step down for Chuck Cassidy who is much more than a showman), but I would credit Chuck Cassidy for his stellar integrity and genuine concern for his real-world craft and skill and talent, which I believe is on par with Tom Silva, as both men are true craftsmen/tradesmen in their respective fields. Just my two cents.
@@lifeisagift.cherisheverymoment rest info, I just more meant his opening and voice sounded similar so it reminded me of him
Chuck, your content is the best. Have you found a suitable cross bar and hardware and method to tie these rails together for attaching rooftop decking etc? I have a transit van and it has 10 mounting points. I was thinking about purchasing 10 extra l mounts and mounting them upside down and bolting cross rails out of rectangular aluminum tubing. Thoughts???
Great video, incredible content and Chuck is a perfect presenter. I was wondering about using aluminum and SS together, any future corrosion problems?
Ok Chuck do you have a list of products and or brand names of everything you would use in your bus ? Even the screws you use to secure your paneling
Another nice video , rack is 70 5/16 cxc apart , just wondering what is the size of solar panels length and witch and space you leave between panels also panel make and watts. thanks again .
Love the video and this system saves welding up a custom aluminum rack. Do know if iron ridge makes cross bars to connect the XR1000 across the bus. I may be able to mount more panels if I put them in pairs longways. Mine are 40" wide by 66" long so a pair is 80" across the bus and 66" long. So 4 panels up front and 4 in the back with a hatch in the middle. If I do them 66" across the bus they are tucked up away from the edge more but I get less. I'm trying to get at least 2k or more. My panels are 335w x8 would be 2680w.
Chuck, I meant to ask you this question during the solar racking premiere but you made it so dang interesting and informative that I completely forgot about the hvac question I have for my bus.
As I was looking thru the pioneer systems on line earlier today, I came across one mini split system with a cartridge ceiling air handler that is like 12”x12” square that gets recessed into the ceiling and the other is a unit that mounts inside a bench at the dining table or under a bed or inside a couch and has 2 1/2” round duct that channels the heat/air where you want it.
My question is, have you used either of these systems yet and how did you like them if you did? They look fantastic and you don’t have the big wall unit to deal with and it would be a much cleaner
As I was looking at them, the question “What would Chuck do” kept running thru my mind so I was hoping you could tell me please. What Chuck would do!
The under bench units look super easy to install but they are not as efficient unfortunately.as for the ceiling unit, that looks awesome but it does stick up pretty high so I've never done one
@@ChuckCassadyYT i have a friend who didn’t go through the hat channel but just through the skin. Is that a issue or a major concern?
@@ChuckCassadyYT you are correct about the height of the ceiling cartridge unit and it would be thicker than almost any ceiling you would put in but I do have a simple solution that would work great and I think I’m gonna try it in my bus.
If you cut a hole in the roof for the cartridge to mount where it needs to mount, then make a sheet metal box on your fancy brake with a bolt or rivet flange running around the perimeter and put a strip of the butyl tape between the roof and the flange to seal, I think it would work well. Most of your subs are probly cringing about cutting a hole in the roof but it’s no different than a roof a/c unit or a roof fan penetration. Seal it properly with good materials and it will never leak.
Also do you have an actual collapsible deck video hanging around? Thanks. P.S. have you thought to sell instructional videos??
Thank you, very helpful indeed!
Would you recommend anything different for installing a solar roof rack on a shuttle bus with a fiberglass roof? About to do mine and really don’t want to mess this up
Nice hat chuck 👌
Aren't school buses mostly made of steel. Wouldn't it be better to use steel brackets so that you don't get galvanic corrosions that occur from putting different metals together?
The aluminum of the bracket doesn’t touch the steel of the roof because it’s painted. Maybe in 100 years it would cause an issue
Yes. Steel would be a better choice especially due to dynamic loading that a rack on a bus would experience, since aluminum work hardens without a plateau like steel does. Galvanic corrosion might not be too bad but you will always get some because there's still a conductive path between the bracket and the roof via the bolt touching the bracket, and the nut touching the hat channel, which touches the roof. As I'm sure you know; doesn't matter how long the conductive path is, just that it's there
did you had problems with the front wind for your solar panels?
Awesome informative video as always.
Glad you think so!
I am in the process of doing a solar rail installation on my skoolie using this video as a guide. I have run into areas where the rivets on the bus roof seams where the hat channels are get in the way of the mounting brackets need to be to be over the hat channel. The bulge of the rivet prevents the bracket from sitting flush. Did you encounter this? Any recommended solutions? Thanks for all your videos!
Did you find a solution to this?
So what do you use to glue the spacer you put on the L bracket and how thick is that spacer?
What about stick on flexible panels?
How many rolls of butyl do you usually use on a full size bus Solar racks? I’ve got less than a whole roll left and don’t wanna begin shorthand on butyl
Love your content Chuck! What size square bolts did you use to attach the bus to the racks? Thanks again
those bolts are included with the iron ridge system
@@ChuckCassadyYT Ah ok, thanks for confirming Chuck!
Also have you ever put out a list of order for construction of building? Like in what order you do all of the jobs? Obviously l should have asked before but l just realized that I could have buggered myself up by failure to install roof racks at the right time.
My videos are my list;)
Hey Chuck! What was your decision with sikaflex or diecorp lapse(?) and why? Are those the 2 choices to decide between for the most part?
This is like if Bob Vila and Martha Stewart had a baby (I love both of them)
and Pythagoras
How long are the "through bolts" that connect to ribs ?
Got that they are 3/8 but what length
Why were the wheel wells removed?
Where's the links to products?
Did you use rusty metal primer all across the inside of your roof? Looks clean, and I considered it, wasn’t sure how necessary it was with closed cell spray foam
What are the rub rail looking things on the roof? I don’t have them on my bus, but they don’t look like something you added so I’m curious what their function is/was? Thank you! Great video, I’m saving it and will follow along once roof work is happening.
great questions, i dont know! it drives me nuts and most thomases have them. Im sure its got to do with the metal seam there
when an L foot sits on top of some rivets, is the aluminum foot and the butyl enough to prop it up/insulate around the rivet? just wanna make sure they'll sit well on top of those bumpy rivets
i actually grind the rivet flat when that happens
Would this system work at all for those with the ceiling already installed? Any tips (aside from going back in time and doing it in the proper order 🥴)?
That's a nice system and great video on how to install it. So how many watts of solar will you have on the roof?
Thanks! I'll have 5, 440 watt solar panels
Hope you don't mind my asking what brand sealant do you use after all the metal changes and rivets?
it is 3m seam sealer
@@ChuckCassadyYT Thanks
Did you share the cost of the system in this video?
Where did you buy your xr 1000 rail? Greentech wants me to have a licensed installer just to order
I'm in the St. Louis, MO Greentech market. I was able to purchase rails without an issue.
Chuck do you have a link to the guy making curved L brackets. I was thinking of welding the L brackets to prevent all the holes, etc
The brackets are aluminum, you couldn't weld them to the steel roof
70 5/16" width between rails - how wide are your panels?? Wondering how much overhang I should leave for the sides of my panels, I got 72" wide panels and im thinking about 6"-12" overhang on each end?
Is chrome yellow a Huxley reference? Or is that the color of paint buses use?
Color of buses!
But I do like what Huxley was on about so that is just a bonus 🤙
Hi Chuck :) Do you have any thoughts/experience with the flexible solar panels that are attached directly to the roof with adhesive? I'd like my solar to be as incognito as possible 😎
My last video is just about this
@@ChuckCassadyYT I'll check it out. Thanks!
Again, I could have used this video months back. 🤷🏼♀️ I used unistrut mounted with 3/8” bolts into rivenuts on my roof. I laid the rails on top of hockey pucks that were set into a bed of dicor tape, with sikaflex (evil cousin of 5200) around edge & dollop on top. We just went through the eye of hurricane Ian in the bus. The 155 mph sustained winds & gusts of the first eye wall didn’t do any damage, we had our bow just off the wind. But the second eye wall hit us broadside with 170 mph gusts before I could get her fired up and moved. The first whomp had me running to the drivers seat and starting the bus, the second whomp took 2 of my solar panels and tossed them 100 ft away, the third whomp took the last 4 panels and all my mounting rails & hardware and laid them on top of first 2. All within what seemed like seconds but was actually a couple of minutes. The bad news ….. I have to replace the panels & hardware. The good news …… I have a wind rating for my mounting system and it’s higher than any speed I’ll ever drive 🤣🤣 I am going to beef up the racks with larger bolts and rivenuts. Unfortunately my bus is already built out inside so I can’t go back and through bolt, but the rivenuts into the roof channel are a strong mount and will be fine, especially with being beefed up a bit, and no more hurricanes. 🤣😁👍🏻
now THAT is one hell of a story! glad you're ok!
Three questions! 1) Why antiseize if the solar mounting interior nuts will be inaccessible? Wouldn't SS cold weld be a good thing?
2) Any tips on how you might modify your technique with an intact already-converted nice ceiling? e.g. PlusNuts?
3) Have you done a video on the plumbing system yet or is that coming up?
Thanks for this video and any answers you can help with.
1) it will gall and seize before its tight. No good
2) def use plus nuts and not rivnuts, and I'd shoot for ribs or places where it's doubled, the skins on roofs is very thin sometimes
3) you can always search my videos, but I have not done a plumbing video. They are released in chronological order as I build
@@ChuckCassadyYT Good to know, thanks! I will be following your build videos with interest. I had searched but didn't find a plumbing video, but sometimes it's hard to remember that even though you've done so many conversions you didn't video them!
“Spooging out”.? This must be a technical term? 😅😊😂
ACK! I stand by my assertion that men NEVER put enough (or big enough) windows in the design. Show me a skoolie, and I'll tell you the sex of the designer! 🙄
Using epoxy to glue aluminium will eventually fail. Oxygen will get under the epoxy and the aluminium will oxidise creating aluminium oxide which will break the epoxy. If you want to glue aluminium with epoxy you need to chemical etch the surface and then anodise. This is how Lotus cars are made.
The aluminum oxidizes almost instantly with air contact already though?
@@ChuckCassadyYT It does, but the oxidation continues. With anodising the oxide layer is built up relatively thick. I've known people who have glued aluminium with epoxy in this way and it's stood up for quite a while and then fails - almost always. It's not just Lotus who etches and glues, aluminium aircraft are built this way also and they do it for a reason.
Chuck, I like your channel a lot. I'm going to do a truck conversion in the future and you've both confirmed a lot of the design decisions I've already made and also given me a lot of information I didn't know, so big thanks. I can see the quality of your work is very high and you're a clever guy. Actually, you're the only channel I've seen that has got proper control of thermal insulation. So many I see are doing it wrong or badly and it's just a big waste of time and money. No fun living in either a cold or a a damp truck. Anyway, on this issue I think you need to do a bit more research.
Trying to figure out why is this for idiots) is it because of the cost?)
It’s a joke my friend
Love me some butyl squeeze
why not use rivnuts in the hat channels instead of plain nuts?
Roughly 1k of these views is me rewatching
I'm dizzy after watching this terrible camera work video, just saying, hard fro the viewer with lot of motion,
I’m really sorry sweetie, we are working on it. Maybe consider donating to me so I can hire a real videographer