An excellent vid for us new Pro V Bass owners. Thanks! It would have been really helpful if you also showed how you removed the floor/side panels to open up the wiring channels and the exact route you took when fishing your wires through the boat. For newb's ... little stuff like that helps greatly. Got a new follower here being an Ontario angler. ;)
In my experience running dedicated power wires is unnecessary on newer Lund ProVs, along with their other higher end models. They run typically 8ga wire direct from the battery to a fuse panel under the helm, with open fuse slots for a chart plotter at the helm and then from there they also run 12ga wire up to the bow for bow electronics. In the event someone is running 3+ screens or live scope we will occasionally run new bow power, but the cables from the battery to the helm on a Lund proV are actually completely overkill and extremely well designed.
I learned the basics of boat rigging this Spring installing a Helix 7 and 5 on my 1993 Smokercraft (my first boat).. it's been a learning process and i still have some dialing in to do but it all works how it should; Except when i have to switch my starting battery with the trolling motor battery to get enough juice to start my boat lol.
Very cool video showing how to get it done and why wire gauge and run length have an impact on ampacity. Today's electronics are many orders of magnitude more demanding, and more sensitive to voltage sags or surges, than the old-school stuff. The one thing I expected to see was a dedicated electronics battery mounted near the bow. That's what I did in my boat and it eliminated any value in using the odd-ball 16v battery configuration. I hate how those are only good for that singular purpose and require a dedicated charger. I'd much rather run a more capable 12v battery, with right-sized wiring, to avoid any issues with voltage sag. The 16v batteries are just "magic beans", from everything I've seen and read on them.
Thanks Jason. I have two 16V 60 AH batteries mounted in the bow; I showed it in the previous video. The 16 V battery is the same price as the 12V battery AH to AH and allows more power in a small space; which is what allowed me to run 120 AH @ 16V in a single location in the bow. Other than the charger, which you would have to add for a 12 V anyway; there really isn't a reason not to use one IMO
@@jamiebrucefishing - Given that your livelihood could literally depend on a battery solution delivering the best possible power to your electronics, I can understand going to this extreme. For the vast majority of folks, the math really doesn't add up, but you're showing what you're doing in your boat, so that's cool.
Brucey, where do you order your parts such as buss bars, perko switches and even wire? Is there a hot spot for this that you like. Never too late to clean up my old mess in the back.
Hey bud - most of it is in stock at LOTW sports in Kenora , not 100% on the perko switch stock but the buss bars and wire is stocked heavy in Kenora . Talk soon!
An excellent vid for us new Pro V Bass owners. Thanks! It would have been really helpful if you also showed how you removed the floor/side panels to open up the wiring channels and the exact route you took when fishing your wires through the boat. For newb's ... little stuff like that helps greatly. Got a new follower here being an Ontario angler. ;)
In my experience running dedicated power wires is unnecessary on newer Lund ProVs, along with their other higher end models.
They run typically 8ga wire direct from the battery to a fuse panel under the helm, with open fuse slots for a chart plotter at the helm and then from there they also run 12ga wire up to the bow for bow electronics.
In the event someone is running 3+ screens or live scope we will occasionally run new bow power, but the cables from the battery to the helm on a Lund proV are actually completely overkill and extremely well designed.
I learned the basics of boat rigging this Spring installing a Helix 7 and 5 on my 1993 Smokercraft (my first boat).. it's been a learning process and i still have some dialing in to do but it all works how it should; Except when i have to switch my starting battery with the trolling motor battery to get enough juice to start my boat lol.
haha - definitely been there! Gotta start somewhere!
Very cool video showing how to get it done and why wire gauge and run length have an impact on ampacity. Today's electronics are many orders of magnitude more demanding, and more sensitive to voltage sags or surges, than the old-school stuff. The one thing I expected to see was a dedicated electronics battery mounted near the bow. That's what I did in my boat and it eliminated any value in using the odd-ball 16v battery configuration. I hate how those are only good for that singular purpose and require a dedicated charger. I'd much rather run a more capable 12v battery, with right-sized wiring, to avoid any issues with voltage sag. The 16v batteries are just "magic beans", from everything I've seen and read on them.
Thanks Jason. I have two 16V 60 AH batteries mounted in the bow; I showed it in the previous video. The 16 V battery is the same price as the 12V battery AH to AH and allows more power in a small space; which is what allowed me to run 120 AH @ 16V in a single location in the bow. Other than the charger, which you would have to add for a 12 V anyway; there really isn't a reason not to use one IMO
@@jamiebrucefishing - Given that your livelihood could literally depend on a battery solution delivering the best possible power to your electronics, I can understand going to this extreme. For the vast majority of folks, the math really doesn't add up, but you're showing what you're doing in your boat, so that's cool.
Thanks
Great job, Great information.
Thanks Norm
Brucey, where do you order your parts such as buss bars, perko switches and even wire? Is there a hot spot for this that you like. Never too late to clean up my old mess in the back.
Hey bud - most of it is in stock at LOTW sports in Kenora , not 100% on the perko switch stock but the buss bars and wire is stocked heavy in Kenora . Talk soon!
Are you worried about interference with a fuse block? I just wired my 16v up in the bow and I used a fuse block instead of in line fuses and buss bar
I'm sure they're fine, not much difference I wouldn't think
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