Yea I was almost freaking out ab my camera. Even watched the old resource remap video to get hopes squashed. Then realized I could probably do this. And am watching videos after I bought it like a real smart guy. Good advice gonna see how the plugs handle because I have no hot air yet.
The side that the plugs are originally on have HUGE traces. Just scratch them wider and solder to that side. That’s what I would do on this board. But personally I wouldn’t run it because every “5A” EEW FET board I freestyle needs the FETs swapped regularly to keep it flying properly. And this one is just way too cramped and not only are the FETs placed at 90degrees but on both sides. That’s WAY too much work. My HM boards I can swap the FETs in basically the same amount of time it takes me to solder on the motors. This board would be too stressful and time consuming and when they need changing in a month I would just have to swap the whole board out, and I’m not about that. I even send back my destroyed and unrepairable boards to HM and they usually hook me up for free or a few dollars. Just don’t run 30k+ KV or turtle aggressively and it will last forever. Like you said it’s a racing board for low KV builds. Also in the future just cover the close pins with epoxy or clear nail polish and you won’t have this bridging issue… but I would just solder the other side to be super safe 😜
@@BoundlessFPV I coat everything. I like to fly in the snow, rain, storms, and at the ocean. Bare boards absolutely suck for durability. Only problem with conformal, compared to epoxy is that you can get flux underneath it (as it’s meant to be non-permanent) and it can cause weird behaviour and electrical noise at times. Never understood the people that don’t clean the flux off their boards and complain about their stuff having weird gyro noise and not flying properly. That’s why I use UV cure PCB epoxy at solder points most of the time. Cures in seconds under UV light and is really user friendly. Never had any issues with it. It’s designed for this purpose and bonds really well, but use it only where necessary OR if you want to make your board impervious to everything and super durable. The only issue is that when you have to replace a voltage regulator, CPU, or FET you have to scratch/grind off the epoxy. Which honestly if you have patience and a scalpel OR a PCB grinder is not a big deal… plus most people don’t repair electronics to begin with… so just pot everything in two part epoxy and be impervious 😜 Conformal is great away from solder connections OR after you wash the board super well and put it on after everything is completely soldered and together. That’s my experience anyway… hope it was mildly helpful or entertaining.
@@BoundlessFPV I mentioned clear nail polish, because most already have it in the house. Other than having to wait for it to dry and dealing with the smell, it actually works quite well. It’s a good bond, and if you have to remove it, it’s super easy.
Thank you for the video! I was just about to build one of these out with some webleedfpv 0702 Screamers. Thankfully, they have a PCB solder pad. Guess I have to place an order for some NBD motor plugs now.
Man that looks like half a dozen of my running whoops. I actually choose to take off the motor plugs, I didn’t hear why you did I assume bc you didn’t have the right connector some are like 1.0 some 1.25 and I never have the right two lol. My tbs aio I use for my custom 75’m is the BLV4 w the tbs reciver built in and it has both also, I didn’t cut those off tho prob should it’ll save a half gram or something. I gotta grab one and see but good video bud!
The intent here was to see how light the build could get. I direct solder my builds. I didn’t cut the plugs off until after I killed the board. Since the board was done already it was a good one see if a quick and dirty snip with side cutters would do anythin bad like lift a pad or trace etc.
I don't know if this adds to the discussion but I've heard stories of people breaking light weight aios because they were applying too much heat when soldering. I'm guessing that having components that close messes up with some of the nearby pads and the window of allowable Temperature/time to solder gets smaller and gets easier to mess up. kinda wanna use this actually cause the x12 - when the connectors were removed - the pads were extremely small but still managed to solder to them.....but then again i live in the opposite side of the world
Yeah I take the motor plugs off and use the dots for pads so if you can do that too your good! And with smaller boards imo you gotta watch more for solder smaller and the lil metal peices is what usually has come off my aios. But high heat quick is the best as you know I’m sure
The biggest heat risk is the negative battery lead because the heat goes out to the entire board. If the iron isn’t hot enough (or have enough heat capacity) you have to stay on it for a long time before the solder melts putting a lot of heat in to the board. The other pads are fairly easy to get on and off quickly enough that heat into other components should be minimal.
What is "totally incorrect" about this? BTW Thank you for the video, all of your content... the group I race with was talking about your "trash magic" video. I really do love taking these AIOs from the prebuilt hummingbird and changing out frame and motors. I'm running with the Cockroach V3 frame and 0703 16420 motors (only $25), with a meteor65 pro frame and 35mm props. So much precision I love it! Great for this racing NOOB. 4 minute flight times are a plus... Could you suggest a lightweight canopy for the bee-eye (NBD cam) to replace the Goober? I saw one in another video you had that looked super light. Or maybe the NBD racing canopy? I'm right around 20g...
My theory was that the design was outsourced, and they found out after the fact the FET orientation was high risk for soldering. Kelvin reached out and corrected that the design is in-house for NBD and they plan to update the FET orientation with the next revision of the board. For canopies, if you have a printer, try my printed canopies. Free to download the file. They come in at 0.6 gm and have adjustable camera tilt.
I don’t think it matters tbh all 65/75mm aios have tiny pads you just need to use a lot of flux! I am going to do a better edited and detailed soldering and basic whoop diy builds.
@@stevefpv the bridge risk is not just a solder bridge, but if the end of the motor wire extends past the pad inboard it can touch the FET pins really easily. Notmally the FET pins are rotated away from the motor pads.
I'm not surprised this happened weith Newbeedrone. I got burnt repeatedly by their products, especially the Hummingbird line, back in 2020. They have no interest in the hobbyist/DIY market. They cater to new pilots who want to buy something and just fly it as-is. And not leave the NBD ecosystem. I'm repeatedly frustrated by their reluctance to listen to the experienced pilot market. For the longest time, they refused to address how heavy their products are. They finally make a reasonbly light board, but they're still using their forked Betaflight to support their OSD, non-standard motor plugs, and their tiny camera plug. They also refuse to ditch the PH2.0 battery pigtail. I know they were vehemently against BT2.0, but I had hoped that since the A30 connector is available, they would have gone to that instead. I almost bought one of these, but I think I'm glad I stayed away. I do like the new Cockoach frame though. I wish they'd make a "pro" version of this board that has no plugs and bigger motor pads. And don't pre-solder the pigtail so we can put on our preferred pigtail.
I'm building one of these today after my meteor65 died. Same exact situation with soldering direct and removing the proprietary plugs. I'll be looking very closely at that area. The meteor65 camera is plug and play at least
You can do that, but then it’s no longer going to be a light weight board. A high powered VTX will generate a lot more heat so you will need a lot more material to dissipate it.
now my NewBeeDrone HummingBird V3 won't lift off on full throttle
I feel you on not checking the whoops. I did that with some betafpv 1s boards. That video part is silly I’m glad you said that lol!
Yea I was almost freaking out ab my camera. Even watched the old resource remap video to get hopes squashed. Then realized I could probably do this. And am watching videos after I bought it like a real smart guy. Good advice gonna see how the plugs handle because I have no hot air yet.
The side that the plugs are originally on have HUGE traces. Just scratch them wider and solder to that side. That’s what I would do on this board.
But personally I wouldn’t run it because every “5A” EEW FET board I freestyle needs the FETs swapped regularly to keep it flying properly.
And this one is just way too cramped and not only are the FETs placed at 90degrees but on both sides. That’s WAY too much work.
My HM boards I can swap the FETs in basically the same amount of time it takes me to solder on the motors. This board would be too stressful and time consuming and when they need changing in a month I would just have to swap the whole board out, and I’m not about that. I even send back my destroyed and unrepairable boards to HM and they usually hook me up for free or a few dollars.
Just don’t run 30k+ KV or turtle aggressively and it will last forever. Like you said it’s a racing board for low KV builds.
Also in the future just cover the close pins with epoxy or clear nail polish and you won’t have this bridging issue… but I would just solder the other side to be super safe 😜
I didn’t think of scraping out the traces. I’ll check that out as an option.
Good idea on the nail polish. I have some acrylic conformal I'm going to paint the fets with prior to soldering
@@BoundlessFPV I coat everything. I like to fly in the snow, rain, storms, and at the ocean. Bare boards absolutely suck for durability.
Only problem with conformal, compared to epoxy is that you can get flux underneath it (as it’s meant to be non-permanent) and it can cause weird behaviour and electrical noise at times. Never understood the people that don’t clean the flux off their boards and complain about their stuff having weird gyro noise and not flying properly.
That’s why I use UV cure PCB epoxy at solder points most of the time. Cures in seconds under UV light and is really user friendly. Never had any issues with it. It’s designed for this purpose and bonds really well, but use it only where necessary
OR
if you want to make your board impervious to everything and super durable. The only issue is that when you have to replace a voltage regulator, CPU, or FET you have to scratch/grind off the epoxy. Which honestly if you have patience and a scalpel
OR
a PCB grinder is not a big deal… plus most people don’t repair electronics to begin with… so just pot everything in two part epoxy and be impervious 😜
Conformal is great away from solder connections
OR
after you wash the board super well and put it on after everything is completely soldered and together.
That’s my experience anyway… hope it was mildly helpful or entertaining.
@@BoundlessFPV I mentioned clear nail polish, because most already have it in the house.
Other than having to wait for it to dry and dealing with the smell, it actually works quite well. It’s a good bond, and if you have to remove it, it’s super easy.
Thank you for the video! I was just about to build one of these out with some webleedfpv 0702 Screamers. Thankfully, they have a PCB solder pad. Guess I have to place an order for some NBD motor plugs now.
i did that to my f7 hakrc that way measure measure measure measure and d check
Man that looks like half a dozen of my running whoops. I actually choose to take off the motor plugs, I didn’t hear why you did I assume bc you didn’t have the right connector some are like 1.0 some 1.25 and I never have the right two lol.
My tbs aio I use for my custom 75’m is the BLV4 w the tbs reciver built in and it has both also, I didn’t cut those off tho prob should it’ll save a half gram or something.
I gotta grab one and see but good video bud!
The intent here was to see how light the build could get. I direct solder my builds. I didn’t cut the plugs off until after I killed the board. Since the board was done already it was a good one see if a quick and dirty snip with side cutters would do anythin bad like lift a pad or trace etc.
I don't know if this adds to the discussion but I've heard stories of people breaking light weight aios because they were applying too much heat when soldering. I'm guessing that having components that close messes up with some of the nearby pads and the window of allowable Temperature/time to solder gets smaller and gets easier to mess up.
kinda wanna use this actually cause the x12 - when the connectors were removed - the pads were extremely small but still managed to solder to them.....but then again i live in the opposite side of the world
Yeah I take the motor plugs off and use the dots for pads so if you can do that too your good! And with smaller boards imo you gotta watch more for solder smaller and the lil metal peices is what usually has come off my aios. But high heat quick is the best as you know I’m sure
The biggest heat risk is the negative battery lead because the heat goes out to the entire board. If the iron isn’t hot enough (or have enough heat capacity) you have to stay on it for a long time before the solder melts putting a lot of heat in to the board. The other pads are fairly easy to get on and off quickly enough that heat into other components should be minimal.
What is "totally incorrect" about this?
BTW Thank you for the video, all of your content... the group I race with was talking about your "trash magic" video. I really do love taking these AIOs from the prebuilt hummingbird and changing out frame and motors. I'm running with the Cockroach V3 frame and 0703 16420 motors (only $25), with a meteor65 pro frame and 35mm props. So much precision I love it! Great for this racing NOOB. 4 minute flight times are a plus... Could you suggest a lightweight canopy for the bee-eye (NBD cam) to replace the Goober? I saw one in another video you had that looked super light. Or maybe the NBD racing canopy? I'm right around 20g...
My theory was that the design was outsourced, and they found out after the fact the FET orientation was high risk for soldering. Kelvin reached out and corrected that the design is in-house for NBD and they plan to update the FET orientation with the next revision of the board. For canopies, if you have a printer, try my printed canopies. Free to download the file. They come in at 0.6 gm and have adjustable camera tilt.
So all it would have taken is an extra 0.5mm of PCB around the edges to make this a good DIY board?
They didn’t even need to do that, just rotate the offending FETs 90 degrees and that would take care of it.
I don’t think it matters tbh all 65/75mm aios have tiny pads you just need to use a lot of flux! I am going to do a better edited and detailed soldering and basic whoop diy builds.
@@stevefpv the bridge risk is not just a solder bridge, but if the end of the motor wire extends past the pad inboard it can touch the FET pins really easily. Notmally the FET pins are rotated away from the motor pads.
I'm not surprised this happened weith Newbeedrone. I got burnt repeatedly by their products, especially the Hummingbird line, back in 2020. They have no interest in the hobbyist/DIY market. They cater to new pilots who want to buy something and just fly it as-is. And not leave the NBD ecosystem. I'm repeatedly frustrated by their reluctance to listen to the experienced pilot market. For the longest time, they refused to address how heavy their products are. They finally make a reasonbly light board, but they're still using their forked Betaflight to support their OSD, non-standard motor plugs, and their tiny camera plug. They also refuse to ditch the PH2.0 battery pigtail. I know they were vehemently against BT2.0, but I had hoped that since the A30 connector is available, they would have gone to that instead. I almost bought one of these, but I think I'm glad I stayed away. I do like the new Cockoach frame though. I wish they'd make a "pro" version of this board that has no plugs and bigger motor pads. And don't pre-solder the pigtail so we can put on our preferred pigtail.
I'm building one of these today after my meteor65 died. Same exact situation with soldering direct and removing the proprietary plugs. I'll be looking very closely at that area. The meteor65 camera is plug and play at least
Wish someone would add a better higher powered vtx to this board
You can do that, but then it’s no longer going to be a light weight board. A high powered VTX will generate a lot more heat so you will need a lot more material to dissipate it.