It is possible to torque the big nut fairly accurately without a torque wrench. 350 nm is about 260 ft lb. I weigh about 175 lb so I would divide 260 by 175, which is about 1.5. So I would put my body weight on the breaker bar at 1 and a half feet from the centre of the socket and this will torque it almost perfectly.
Great video. Anti seize is the way to go. For easy replacement in future. The dust cover on the 200 series, looks to do a good job of keeping moisture and grime out. It came out with little effort.
I'm awaiting my new GXL 200. This is so timely it's uncanny. I'm a Nissan GU owner stepping over to the dark side (hopefully the more comfortable and less overheating side) and understanding how to do this is a big confidence boost for remote travel with my camper. The GU driveline is not something I worry about, but having done 3 auto rebuilds in 2 years and spent a lot on oversized radiators (3.0 converted to a TD42) I'm really looking forward to driving a new car! Needless to say a 12 point 39mm 1/2 inch socket and Toyota CV is on my shopping list.
Welcome to the dark side! The 200 is luckily one of the easier 4wds to change out the CV. The driveline is one of the best things about the GU, the TD42 kettle unfortuatley isn't.
Better to use a block of wood over the nut to hit at 4:30 . Had a worn cv on a Subaru many years back, being broke at the time, I just swapped them left to right and right to left. Got many more years out of them.
I have a clunking sound in the front end on my 200 driver side front more noticeable when pulling up a curb I grabbed the cv and it has a clicking sound
Great video. But how can you tell if the cv is all the way in? And is it possible to cross thread it? Any info on what to do if out bush and dont have a spare cv? Thanks!
You can feel it go all the way home. It's not possible to cross thread the inner as they're straight splines, the outer nut however can be cross threaded. If you don't have a spare, if just the inner cage breaks (this is what usually happens). Just remove the outer section that runs through the hub, lock the centre diff and just drive out in rear wheel drive.
Great video and channel, So if you didn't have a spare would it be possible to just remove the shaft than limp home with the broken bit left in the diff? Or would it eventually fall out and loose the diff oil?
It depends on the setup, if it's a two wheel drive, no, all the drive will go to the path of least resistance and you won't go anywhere. If you have a difflock, engage it and you'll be able to drive forward, just need some way to stop the oil from dripping out.
Thanks for the video. As a 200 owner I hope I don't need it 😬. What brand/type of CV was the broken on and what did you replace it with? What's your opinion on the highest quality/strength spare to use as a replacement? Had that CV broken before? How did he go driving out with a broken cv?
The car was purchased second hand (ex police), not sure what was in it. It was replaced with a genuine Toyota CV. Genuine CVs while probably the most expensive, seem to last the longest. Luckily he broke the CV right at the top of a nasty hill and was able to limp out without any winching.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing mine is ex police as well. Mine was Toyota serviced for its life so it was probably a genuine Toyota one in that case. Thanks for your perspective.
I've only had 200 for 10000kms and a few months and about to replace my second cv . Not a broken cv, but splits cv boots. One was 10,000kms ago and the other recently
@@ClaytonCookpanda in was speaking to another 200 owner the other day. He was saying that if you have the lift a little to high they tend to chew out the boots. Perhaps take it to a good suspension shop and get them to check the angles.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yes, inner cv. Ball bearings falling out and all. Using CRAWL. The problem is that the OEM CV angle is already too big, doing any kind of lift or upper control arm travel mods will cause them to travel down too much and the inner CV to snap. I don't think you can snap them on an OEM non-lifted 200.
Seems like the inner is predominantly the one that lets go. It's a shame someone like RCV haven't stepped up to the plate and made an aftermaket replacement.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yes, inner cv. Ball bearings falling out and all. Using CRAWL. The problem is that the OEM CV angle is already too big, doing any kind of lift or upper control arm travel mods will cause them to travel down too much and the inner CV to snap. I don't think you can snap them on an OEM non-lifted 200.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing The angle that those CV axles reach especially on the KDSS versions (increased travel) that are lifted is so severe. I don't think any after market can handle those angles. I think Toyota made the front differential sit higher than usual to increase ground clearance but that made the CV angle too steep. You also can't drop the front differential far enough because of the cross member.
Great video. Saved this in my Landcruiser folder of saved videos for future reference 😁 Any advice on how to drive the vehicle with a broken CV? I’m no mechanic but if a CV breaks on the track & not carrying spares, how do we get it home? Or is it a tow home job? Also is left & right CV same size? Thanks for your time. Look forward in your responses 👍🏽
In the 200, left and right are the same. To driving home, it depends on how it breaks. If the inner cup against the diff is still firmly attached in the diff and the outer section can be removed, I can't see why not. Though you'll have to drive in 4H with the centre differential locked, otherwise the car won't move!
Have you ever broken a major part on your 4x4?
It is possible to torque the big nut fairly accurately without a torque wrench.
350 nm is about 260 ft lb. I weigh about 175 lb so I would divide 260 by 175, which is about 1.5. So I would put my body weight on the breaker bar at 1 and a half feet from the centre of the socket and this will torque it almost perfectly.
Now that's thinking outside of the box!
Great video. Anti seize is the way to go. For easy replacement in future. The dust cover on the 200 series, looks to do a good job of keeping moisture and grime out. It came out with little effort.
Looked clean as a whistle under there and as far as I know, had never been removed.
I'm awaiting my new GXL 200. This is so timely it's uncanny. I'm a Nissan GU owner stepping over to the dark side (hopefully the more comfortable and less overheating side) and understanding how to do this is a big confidence boost for remote travel with my camper. The GU driveline is not something I worry about, but having done 3 auto rebuilds in 2 years and spent a lot on oversized radiators (3.0 converted to a TD42) I'm really looking forward to driving a new car!
Needless to say a 12 point 39mm 1/2 inch socket and Toyota CV is on my shopping list.
Welcome to the dark side! The 200 is luckily one of the easier 4wds to change out the CV.
The driveline is one of the best things about the GU, the TD42 kettle unfortuatley isn't.
from 7:00 that brake line was looking nice and stretched !
That's the reason we detached the mid support, to try and minimise the tension on the brake line. Kinda worked! :)
Better to use a block of wood over the nut to hit at 4:30 .
Had a worn cv on a Subaru many years back, being broke at the time, I just swapped them left to right and right to left. Got many more years out of them.
You definetly need to use something softer than end of the CV.
I have a clunking sound in the front end on my 200 driver side front more noticeable when pulling up a curb I grabbed the cv and it has a clicking sound
Is it worse when you're turning at full lock?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing no not noticeable I’m thinking upper control arms had a bar in between spring and arm and clicking sound evident
@@anthonybagnato7894 that sounds suspect, might need to check the bushes.
Why did you lift the breaker bar rather than push it down when tightening the nut for the shaft in the hub?
That's where the tripod was!
Excellent video mate.
Thanks!
Great video. But how can you tell if the cv is all the way in? And is it possible to cross thread it? Any info on what to do if out bush and dont have a spare cv? Thanks!
You can feel it go all the way home. It's not possible to cross thread the inner as they're straight splines, the outer nut however can be cross threaded.
If you don't have a spare, if just the inner cage breaks (this is what usually happens). Just remove the outer section that runs through the hub, lock the centre diff and just drive out in rear wheel drive.
Nice mate thanks for that ..hope I don't have to do it to soon but.
Me either!
Brilliant
Thanks!
Great video and channel,
So if you didn't have a spare would it be possible to just remove the shaft than limp home with the broken bit left in the diff? Or would it eventually fall out and loose the diff oil?
It depends on the setup, if it's a two wheel drive, no, all the drive will go to the path of least resistance and you won't go anywhere.
If you have a difflock, engage it and you'll be able to drive forward, just need some way to stop the oil from dripping out.
Hey guys I’ve blown a cv on my 200 series can I drive with the cv full removed or does the cv hold everything in place
You would need to plug the hole in the diff, otherwise all the oil would come out. Also you would have to lock the centre diff.
You can lay a piece of scrap copper pipe across a part & hit the pipe flat with a steel hammer.
Great advice, never thought of doing that!
Awesome Video, thanks.
Thanks mate!
Great video. Ever seen the road safe ones, they claim that have a raised/lifted lc200. Are they a better option if lift?
I haven't, I know RCV do one as well, though the price......
Thanks for the video. As a 200 owner I hope I don't need it 😬. What brand/type of CV was the broken on and what did you replace it with? What's your opinion on the highest quality/strength spare to use as a replacement? Had that CV broken before? How did he go driving out with a broken cv?
The car was purchased second hand (ex police), not sure what was in it. It was replaced with a genuine Toyota CV. Genuine CVs while probably the most expensive, seem to last the longest.
Luckily he broke the CV right at the top of a nasty hill and was able to limp out without any winching.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing mine is ex police as well. Mine was Toyota serviced for its life so it was probably a genuine Toyota one in that case. Thanks for your perspective.
I've only had 200 for 10000kms and a few months and about to replace my second cv . Not a broken cv, but splits cv boots. One was 10,000kms ago and the other recently
@@ClaytonCookpanda in was speaking to another 200 owner the other day. He was saying that if you have the lift a little to high they tend to chew out the boots. Perhaps take it to a good suspension shop and get them to check the angles.
@@neutronstorm Thanks - that does make sense - I'm running a 3/4 inch superior lift with diff drop. might need to come down a touch in the front.
CV on the 200 are garbage, I own a 200
Have you killed a few?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yes, inner cv. Ball bearings falling out and all. Using CRAWL. The problem is that the OEM CV angle is already too big, doing any kind of lift or upper control arm travel mods will cause them to travel down too much and the inner CV to snap. I don't think you can snap them on an OEM non-lifted 200.
Seems like the inner is predominantly the one that lets go. It's a shame someone like RCV haven't stepped up to the plate and made an aftermaket replacement.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yes, inner cv. Ball bearings falling out and all. Using CRAWL. The problem is that the OEM CV angle is already too big, doing any kind of lift or upper control arm travel mods will cause them to travel down too much and the inner CV to snap. I don't think you can snap them on an OEM non-lifted 200.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing The angle that those CV axles reach especially on the KDSS versions (increased travel) that are lifted is so severe. I don't think any after market can handle those angles. I think Toyota made the front differential sit higher than usual to increase ground clearance but that made the CV angle too steep. You also can't drop the front differential far enough because of the cross member.
Great video. Saved this in my Landcruiser folder of saved videos for future reference 😁
Any advice on how to drive the vehicle with a broken CV? I’m no mechanic but if a CV breaks on the track & not carrying spares, how do we get it home? Or is it a tow home job?
Also is left & right CV same size?
Thanks for your time.
Look forward in your responses 👍🏽
In the 200, left and right are the same.
To driving home, it depends on how it breaks. If the inner cup against the diff is still firmly attached in the diff and the outer section can be removed, I can't see why not. Though you'll have to drive in 4H with the centre differential locked, otherwise the car won't move!