in case you haven't figured it out, its because the outer layer of plastic is cracking and peeling on a micro level, tiny cracks that diffuse the plastic and its caused by the sun. what you need is something clear and liquid that goes into the cracks and then hardens. the WD 40 simply washed off You should take some hot soapy water and clean the oils off the headlights and then do it properly.
Specifically what clearcoat spray do you use? I think this technique would work on stereo turntable dust covers. Filling the cracks that diffuse the light makes pretty good sense. Trying to reestablish that clarity by removing material would present a very vulnerable surface to the elements. I suppose. I'm no expert by any means.
Guess that's the price you pay for great weather? Issue with my car being on the North Coast of England... Seagull poo every day, I keep a bucket on the drive to clean it off😭
Plastic is made from oil. So to make things simple for people, any liquid that contains oil will rehydrate the dry plastic, hence making it relatively clear again. Not sure if true but someone told me you can use oil based polyurethane for lasting results. Again please do your own research because I personally never tried this method.
No matter what you use to clean your headlight lens, the trick is to scrub horizontally ONLY. The cloudiness is crazing cause by dust impact and UV deterioration. If you scrub round and round or both sideways and up and down, it aligns some of the crazing but scrubbing in one direction only leaves a clearer and longer lasting lens.
If the headlight manufacturers did their job properly nobody would have this problem! One could accept this happening after 20 years, but not a few years. Unacceptable!
Hey as long as they are pretty when you drive it off the lot! The excuse I get for Lexan vs good ole glass is weight and durability. Weight maybe but durability? Granted glass would require the lens to be ribbed on the inside and you would lose the clarity of a Lexan housing.
Mine is 22 and has very minimal fading. Slight spots here and there, but def. Not the whole headlight. I lived on a farm for 4 years parking in the sun, It might have happened over that time. I thought it was glass but it's also not the type of plastic on newer cars🤔... it's a Daewoo Lanos 1999.
What causes the headlight lenses to get cloudy like that is something called "crazing" - which is when the UV light from the sun attacks the outer surface of the plastic and causes a lot of microscopic cracks in the surface. This diffuses the light hitting the surface instead of letting it through and makes it look cloudy. Liquid products like OFF and WD-40 and even water, just fill in the cracks and make it look clear again. Of course, water evaporates quicker than oils, so it doesn't last as long, but even the oils will eventually wash away or evaporate and the headlights are still crazed like before. If you had washed that OFF off with soap and water, it would have looked like it did before. What actually works is plain old cheap buffing compound, a clean rag, and about 10 minutes of scrubbing in small circles all over the lens. The toothpaste will work some, but you need to scrub it on with a rag and not a toothbrush, plus you need to scrub a lot longer than five minutes. Buffing compound has a little more aggressive abrasive, so it works faster than toothpaste, but it still takes some time and elbow grease. It basically ablates the cracked surface and gets down to a new, smooth surface. It will stay clearer longer, but eventually will have to be done again due to continued crazing by the sun. My experience is that I have to do it every 12 to 18 months, depending on the car.
The most accurate description of what happened in the video! And the most underrated as i see it! People don't understand some basic things...it' common sense and logic thinking. In his case, toothpaste would have worked but you need to put some work into it- as in everything in this f** life! People are looking only for quick and wonder fixes that mostly don't exist. Things don't work this way. Most of the time you need to put a bit of effort into whatever you're doing to get good results; valid for most things in this world. Period.
If you use a fine sandpaper, like velvet almost, you get the yellowed oxidation off. Called wet sanding. Then after totally dry, spray lightly with a gloss, non-yellowing, UV top coat for plastic. You won't have to do it again.
@John Akston it might have to be done over, but not from the yellowing. The guy I watched on youtube put three coats of cleargloss on. It might last til you get a new car. I followed his directions and am quite happy with my car from 2000. The yellowing stained the driveway!
The absolute best way to clean these up. Start off with 600 grit sand paper sand it until the whole thing is hazy. Then go to 1000 grit. Then move to 2000 grit. Then get some good wax and a buffer. It will last a very long time. I do them all the time for people at work.
After the 2000 go to a 2500 or 3000 grit wet sand.Blow them off with some air/wipe them dry tape the trucks front off and spray them with clear coat. Then wet sand that with a 3000,dry and spray or wipe a thin layer of clear coat on and it will last for years. A friend taught me this and My trucks headlights after about 6yrs still look great.. Thats probaly the most permanent way to go..
I used OFF on my Tahoe headlights a year ago. Sprayed on and cleaned off, then sprayed on and let dry without rubbing it off. I was amazed and it still looks pretty good a year later.
If you want to clean your head light plastic, use a wet 3000 grit sand paper, keep the water hose dribbling on the plastic as you rub in circles. After you have cleaned the gunk off, Then use chrome polish and a buffer wheel to polish back to a shine. THEN MOST IMPORTANTLY SPRAY THE CLEAN HEADLIGHTS WITH UV PROTECTIVE CLEAR PAINT!!! You should be able to get all the necessary stuff at your local hardware store. This is a ONE TIME AND DONE FIX! At least for me it has been.
The toothpaste would probably have worked better if you worked it in with a rag. That way it would work much like a rubbing compound or wet sanding. Actually buffing is still probably the best option in my opinion.
Actually the toothpaste does work . Put the paste on with your finger rubbing in a circular motion once you cover the whole light use a clean damp rag and rub hard circular about 5 to 10 minutes rinse off throughly let dry then rinse off a second time then dry with clean cloth. Next step buy PPF .. 3M paint protection film and place this over your head lights film will last about 5 years . replace when needed .
Many year sago we traveled to a place where insect repellant was necessary, so we bought some stuff that had a very high content of DEET. Much higher than OFF! During the trip it leaked and the plastic cosmetics bag my wife had it in partially melted, so yes, DEET is a solvent to plastics.
Mother's brand mag and wheel polish. It is metal polish. Metal polish removes oxidation. Takes two minutes with microfiber cloth. Buff in hard with two fingers. Wipe off with clean part of cloth. 5 ounce container at Walmart in wax section. Works about 4 months. Buff again it gets better. It will not work if it is heat damage. Homeless guy showed me.
After 15 years on a used car lot, I used off on a lot of cars. You will have better luck by spraying the off on the rag (microfiber) first and apply it to the headlight in a fast swiping motion horizontally. If you get too much on the headlight, it WILL soften the plastic cover.
Yup, used some arm and hammer toothpaste on my old headlights before waxing it with some fancy ceramic wax and two years in they're looking good as ever. Probably get better results just using increasing grits of sandpaper and wet sanding though. (Albeit at $2 for a tube toothpaste makes a compelling quick fix that doesn't eat your clearcoat if you overspray.)
What I've done on my vehicles that works great and for years is, I sand the headlights or taillights fog lights etc whichever I'm doing with 1,000 fine sand paper until they're smooth smooth, then I wash em off and dry em, then I clear coat them with spray paint clear, let em sit a couple of hours then buff em, it works for years. This works for me just wanted to share
I used to work at a car parts place and someone showed me using Meguiar's Marine one step compound to clean (used to clean gel coats on boats, so it's gentle) the headlights. We used a regular wax applicator pad and went to work. Yep, you gotta apply some elbow grease. Once they are clean and shiny, you give the headlights a nice coat of the Meguiars wax to keep them protected which lasted a couple of months. Reapply the wax and it kept the headlights clear. I've also used the bug spray, it works, but over time it clouds up again. The clear coat spray idea is a good one.
Light rubbing compound works as well or better than any kit. The abrasive grit actually rubs off the surface of the plastic, which is what has become pitted and oxidized, leaving clear plastic below. A good polishing after using the rubbing compound really makes them clear and shiny, and this method will last as long as the original headlamp did because you are starting with new surface, not one that has just been filled in with an oily substance.
As a professional who polishes everyday wet a towel apply the toothpaste. The abrasive is very fine it may take 3 applications. ( NO BAKING SODA ITS TO ABRASIVE IT CAN REMOVE TARNISH FROM SILVER ) Never use a toothbrush it will leave fine scratches of its own. The light grit in the toothpaste will polish the plastic lense surface to remove tiny surface cracks that diffuse the light and make it look foggy. If the surface has deeper crazing use lava soap the pumice in the lava soap is more aggressive than toothpaste and will polish the plastic smooth faster. Then finish up with toothpaste. After you make them as clear as possible seal them with a good car wax this will make them even more clear. Like when you use floor wax on an old scratched vinyl floor.
Old T shirts are great for hayfever or head colds. Ultra soft, easy on the nose, and washable. Don't want to use one that's been used for chemicals or oily stuff tho.
The problem with DEET is the chemical reaction softens the polycarbonate lens on the headlight. It will clear up the haze but the haze will comeback pretty quick. You need to apply a UV protectant to maintain the clarity.
What people fail to tell you is that toothpaste works like rubbing compound...you rinse your headlights and put a quarter sized amount on your buffing wheel and polish your headlights on high speed. Then make sure you follow up with headlight polish to prevent your shiny headlights from fading in the sun. Restoring headlights is basically removing the damaged top coat of plastic. The problem with all restore jobs is that you end up removing the hard factory finish so you keep having to polish with rubbing compound and polish it once a year to maintain it.
I’ve been having a really rough time lately but you not only gave me a smile but also a genuine laugh with your word “scratchly.” Thank you!! And great idea with the off, I never woulda thought of it
@@MusicGoodies- Any spray can of clear coat would work. Nu Finish or McGuires. In addition to looking incredible, they will easily stay in that condition for another 6 months.
Somebody may have already said this, but Crest toothpaste works really well, especially if you apply a thick layer of it (I use half a tube for each headlight), let it sit, scrub, then spray it off. Personally its my favorite method (the most effective for such a low price), and you only have to apply it every few months.
I used Evaporust. Bought it for the running rust on my car. It failed. Some of the Evaporust got on my headlight and Bam! The cloud came off the headlight. It actually worked. Just saying.
Spend about $15 for a bottle of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and a couple microfiber cloths and you'll only have to do it once -- no scrubbing...just enough pressure in small mellow circles with a dime-size blob of the compound on one of the towels, buff away with the other, and they'll be crystal clear...no need to repeatedly reapply. It also works really well on tail lights -- they'll look brand new. Keep the compound around for other similar cleaning needs, and of course detailing your car.
The correct way I use off for this !! First have a rag or baby diaper ,, the softer the better one that will not leave lint ... Spray entire headlamp , give it five seconds or it will melt the plastic ..rub lamp off in strokes only one direction only couple times . You will see fantastic difference but do only once in 24 hour period , then you can repeat if needed . The affects will last for long time , regardless of comments I have seen below . Have made many people very happy with this at my shop. free of charge
Hi. I used to ride motorcycles... the thing that was always recommended for exactly this for both fairing windshields and light covers is.... Meguires Wax Cleaner. Works like a charm. Just put it on, wait a minute or so, and then rub it off. Cleans up clear plastic amazingly
Monty King - That's what I use. It's a great product for slightly neglected paint surfaces. On a car with slightly foggy headlamps, it only lasts about a month if the car isn't usually garaged. I rubbed them with plenty of pressure for about 10 minutes each. They looked brand new for about 1 week and by 4 weeks, not so good. DuPont rubbing compound first, then DuPont polishing compound second, then Meguiar's Cleaner Wax worked better. Regardless, the lenses MUST have a durable UV protection applied or they will not look good for long after restoration.
I've used Ben's 30% deet and it actually melts the film off of the headlight vs cleaning or filling cracks as some people think it does. You can feel it start to get tacky, then see it start to remove the foggy layer altogether. Once it's looking clear, one last wet wipe to allow it to glaze over and you're set for 6-8 months or longer. Fastest, cheapest and easiest method to restore headlights imo.
@@LarissaNicole1 I sprayed it on a rag or sock flipped inside out, then smeared it across the headlight housing evenly. Sprayed the sock again and slowly wiped it side to side from the top to bottom until I felt and saw the hazy layer begin to dissolve. Repeat once or twice more and then with a clean part of the sock, spray it pretty wet so you can coat the entire headlight with a wet/gloss coat and let it dry. I spray the sock away from my car as to avoid getting it on the paint although it hasn't shown any bad reactions when I did get some on it.
Do the toothpaste, wash then use off or WD-40. It won’t last as long as just having it done professionally or using products designed for headlights. 😊
The toothpaste without baking soda works great. Use the Colgate cavity and worked great for only $1. I didn't use a a tooth brush, used a dish washing brush with short bristles. Don't use circular motions, but up down and left right. Let the toothpaste dry while you do the other headlight. Go back to the first headlight and buff the toothpaste off (I used a 6" electric buffer). Don't wash it off, buff it like with was. Then wash the headlight. Repeat on the other headlight. I did all this with no water hose at my apartment. You might have to do this 2 or more times, but it works. I did this on a 1999 Honda civic, 20 year old headlighrs that were totally yellow fogged. 2 applications and they are almost totally clear! For one dollar. 3rd application will get them totally done. Spend a bit of time with the toothpaste, then wax the headlights. Cheaper than the kits.
@@junehutchinson3658 check out the video link below. Believe it or not, high grit abrasives are used to polish surfaces like glass and stone & metals :)
@@briandesmondcouche sorry, I can't see any video link. Am I doing something wrong? Does the process work on both glass and the newer plastics being used? Tyia. 😎🙋🤔
I’ve tried W40 and its good as new and now I aso tried this OFF and man.....it dis a well done job too 👍. Liked all y’all videos including Kayak fishing’s as well.
The best way I’ve found to do head lights is to take 400 and 600 and 1200 wet sanding paper and buy you’re self a can of none yellowing and none fading clear coat in a raddle can, then take a garbage bag cut out for the headlight and tape it down and make sure that you tape the rubber around the headlight. And you want to soak the sanding paper for a half an hour in warm water, and start sanding with the 400 first, and as you sand you’ll see a milky film coming off that’s the clear coat from the factory. Then go to the 600 grit and sand the whole headlight now use the 1200 and and till the headlight looks smooth. And dry the headlight and if you have an air compressor blow out and standing water, then let dry and wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and let dry.. now start out with a lite coat of the clear coat let dry for 20 minuets then apply a second coat make it look wet BUT not to the point it wants to run or sag, and let dry for 25 minutes. Now put on the last coat and try to make it look wet and make sure to spray the whole headlight. This works really great mine has been done for two years now..
To clear the top layer of “yellow haze” off any headlamp assembly, you must remove the compromised clear coat that is sprayed onto the surface by the manufacturer. This can be done with sandpaper only. After you complete;y remove the old yellowed top layer, you must polish (buff out) the original plastic to a clear, high luster. Then you must spray a “non-yellowing”, high gloss, clear coat lacquer finish on those shiny new headlamps. Otherwise all the work you’ve done will quickly deteriorate. There is no quick, cheap solution.
I usually go from 2000 and finish it off with 8000 grit (I don’t recommend making that big of a jump in sand paper go from 2000 then 2,500 and go up from there. Also my best jobs were when I wet sanded it) and then polish it after (make sure it’s completely dry before you polish)
Great video. I agree that some of these restoration kits are expensive and they usually are a one-car application. So I'm curious, how long did the Off last?
@@simonethier5793 damn why not let him learn from his mistakes bro why be a ass to others who done nothing to you bro need to take that shit to whoever pissed you off not people on UA-cam stop bullying screen warrior
Hey, loved your inference of what works. Using the Off every weekend for a month might be even better for long term. Then once a month. The light assembly on my 2009 BMW 328i cost $1,200 apiece to have replaced. If I do it the assembly’s cost $1,900. I think it’s worth me cleaning them once a month with Off bug spray. I’m going to try the bug spray on my outdoor light fixture that has yellowed. Thanks.
There's clearing with sanding or compound/polish, but then any work needs to be sealed to prevent oxidation from happening again with a few weeks. I coat with 4everClear by SafeTclear after sanding up to 2000 grit
Fun to watch. Thanks. Boy some other people have some anger/immaturity issues.... This fellow is providing information and entertainment. Anyway, keep it up.
Agreed! He is just like any of us folks who is trying to educate the public in a way that is cohesive and informative. I give him a thumbs up for just being plain truthful and honest. No tomfoolery here.
He should keep it up, like you said, for fun and entertainment. I actually found the comments more instructional and informative than the video. He yackety yaks too much more than he should.
Thanks for the video, Yak. After spending the evening watching video's and reading comments, I've sanded, wiped with mineral spirits, and clearcoated the front lenses. Looks great - so far (1 hour). Gotta say that the claims that the hazing comes from UV can't be the case. The rear lenses on my 2004 Lexus are very clear with no treatment. Hmmm... same sun, different end of the car. I suspect the highway-driving sand-blasting over the last 16 years and 190,000 miles are the cause of the front lense issue. The less one drives, the better it gets for everybody.
I was told it's where water 💦💧💦 or condensation gets behind them, n heat up all day, so plastic almost cooks, sounds reasonable but I'm grasping at miracle 😆🤣❣️... The kits do work for few months, but I have to do again for winter ❄️ n rain ☔❣️
My theory is that the motor oil residues on the roads, or the residue from the road itself, gets misted up onto your headlights when it's raining and you're getting misted by the person in front of you. I think the residue degrades the plastic. But that's just my theory.
There is a clear coat over front headlights. The front lens' have a different softer plastic so as not to crack or break when rocks hit them. The rear lights have a harder plastic lens.
OFF DOES eat away the plastic, thats how it works...just like the sandpaper does in the first step of headlight restoration kits. But after that top layer of plastic is gone, you need to seal the exposed plastic and then protect it from UV damage to keep the plastic clear long term
You did the toothpaste all wrong. Just put the toothpaste on a clean rag like an old t-shirt and rub the light for a minute. Then rub off all the toothpaste after it dries with the clean side of the t-shirt. It works for me! Good Luck
right, just because you're using toothpaste does not mean you have to use a toothbrush to apply. just use another hand towel, just ruin another one from your wife's set. ;-)
You missed my original post where I said use an old t-shirt! And make sure you use White toothpaste. I put it on with a dry rag, and take it off with a damp one. It cost me nothing as the toothpaste was expired, and about to be thrown out!
The "Off", like the WD-40, is only a temporary solution. If you don't want to replace the lights, you must sand them down using increasingly fine grit starting at about 800, then 1000 and finally 2500-3000, followed by a buffing compound, and then with a polishing compound. The entire process goes to increasingly finer abrasives. But you're not done yet. The original UV coating that was oxidized, degraded and crazed is now gone and must be replaced. There are a variety of permanent final UV coatings for headlamps to give them a clear coat. Without that, the micro-porous polycarbonate will degenerate and suffer UV damage within weeks or months. If that seems too much work, especially for very badly hazed and crazed lenses, the cost of replacing the headlamp assemblies may become attractive. Depends on the amount of work required and the value of your time.
@@lindademercer3832 My suggestion is replacing the lamp housing. Attempting to polish these is difficult at best, marginal results, and tend to fog back over quickly
I found that Automatic Manual Transmission fluid is by far the best for this as well as on mirrors a windows.Also backup light fluid works but it takes more time and scrubbing.🥴😱
What you want to use is brake fluid . Brake fluid will take off a thin layer . Use 1/2 cup on a rag rub in small circles then add more and smooth it out with even pressure straight across back and fourth. Brake fluid lasts for several months even years. It removes the layer that is oxidized or weathered or fogged up and creates a like new surface. The off looked good but didnt last long . Off only masks it with oil layer brake fluid removes the damaged layer of plastic and allows you to smoth out the new clean layer. Very easy no hard scrubbing only rubbing lightlyand very lightly to smooth it.
Watch the Chris Fix video on how to restore them. Wet dry sandpaper and some spray UV resistant clear coat. Did mine like two years ago and still going strong.
ncfishboy try scotty kilmer and it does work, i tried chrisfix and only last two months with crack paint. chris fix cost you around $20 compared to scotty cost u around $16. 😂🤣
Pure acetone (nail polish remover) works great. Just don't get the stuff with conditioners in it; get pure acetone. And don't get it on your paint (it is paint remover after all).
Is it a short lived fix or longer term fix ❔❔❔❣️... I'll try anything, I've contemplated 🆕🚗 lights but it happens every 🚗 I've owned near too, thank you for a fix 🤞😳❣️
Just my experience, but I used Deep Woods Off and my headlights stayed clear for a year and counting. I passed it on to a friend, and his headlights have remained clear for 8 months to date. Not sure about others, but Deep Woods Off is definitely working well for me.
I have had Off partially dissolve an old plastic watch I was wearing when hiking in the swamp years ago. I still wouldn’t use it on headlight covers. I just did my wife’s car with a Sylvania kit and it worked very well.
If you need to test cleaning products then the cleaning method must be the same, otherwise you do not know if the product or cleaning tool does the job.
I'm so tired of all these myths and hacks! The headlights come with a factory clear coat on the lenses!!! When it gets old it gets yellow and cracks..... It's why they look the way they do. Cheep fast and best fix is water sand the headlights with 1000 grit paper and spray them with a adhesive promotor then a few coats of clear coat! Done!!! Ok people get on with your lives already
Cheaper and easier than that.....plastic rubbing compound. It's made to do exactly that and can be foud just about anywhere. People are always trying to re-invent the wheel...
You asked for comments from scientists. I am a scientist [research chemist], and I am commenting that this video is about six times as long as necessary.
up till 3 years ago i was a tech at a toyota dealer . if you look close at your headlight you will see where the heat of the parking bulbs has melted the lens.. toyota dealers would replace them under warranty as a defect... go get new ones.....free
What I have to tell is the fix. 1. Use soap and water and clean headlights 2. U have to remove the factory sprayed on protective UV Clear Coat. Using the finest auto body wet sand paper and soap and water till old clear coat is remove. 3. Tape off all auto body parts like hood grills finders bumpers. 4. Go to auto body shop or local auto parts store ask for a spray can of UV protective clear coat for head lights. Follow directions.
Regular Crest Toothpaste, Flossing, Listerine Mouthwash. Brush up and down not across. Don't forget to clean the tongue. Daily 2-3 X That will keep an make your grill gleem
Years ago I used toothpaste and the results were excellent. I only used toothpaste. I let the toothpaste film set and dry. I rubbed the toothpaste off with a course cotton towel. The lens was still clear months afterwards.
I use a cleaner called Plastx cleaner polish. I use it about 3 times a year. It only takes a small dab and it takes about 3 minutes of polishing to do both headlights and it stays clean for about 4 months. I've had the same bottle for about 5 years as you only use a small dab each time. Note!! the left side of your vehicle is determined by the drivers view as he sits in the car.
I can't say thank you enough for what you wrote. It's bothered me for years about the whole left and right thing with cars. I always use the terms 'driver's side' and 'passenger side' to avoid any potential confusion. It's happened to me in the past, even with mechanics who have misunderstood which side someone was referring to when trying to fix something. Their left and the other person's left weren't the same and the mechanic couldn't find any problems. After a lot of stupid and unnecessary discussion, it's always figured out. But damn! Personally, I'm sticking to driver and passenger, but I'm so happy someone finally told me which end was up (so to speak). Thanks again!
Tape around your headlights with masking tape then start wet sanding with 400 Grit go to 800 Grit than a thousand grit... try and work with a hose and keep the light wet the whole time, or as much as possible while you're wet sanding. Then if you go to 2000 and then finish off with 3000 and then buy a glaze such as Meguiars and polish it up and they will look brand-new. It will last you quite a while I do headlight restoration and it's the best and longest thing out there... then just keep them waxed every couple of months like you would and should do with a new set of headlights. Take care...
Your process is totally correct buddy, but as a caveat with all due respect every set of headlamps can be tainted to different degrees, and 4-8 may be too abrasive if there is only a little pitting. I would always start closer to the minimum, something closer to a 1000, and a bit more elbow grease, as many people trying this for the first time will be expecting a quick fix, and imo if people are unsure of what they are looking for as a base wet sand, they will generally over rub, and the scratches on the outer headlamp that result can be just as bad if not worse than the original fogging issue. I think the 'glaze' you intimate is definitively a 'clear coat spray' which may somewhat confuse some if they are unsure
I use to own a car lot. I used warm/hot soapy water and a 2000 grit sand paper. Then hand buffed with a polishing compound (NOT a buffing compound). Sometimes repeated this a time or two more and you wont believe how well it does. Lasts a lot longer than anything else I tried and a whole lot cheaper than buying restoration kits.
I did power steering fluid. Put on a thick layer and let it dry. Buff it off and repeat as needed. Worked for a few weeks the first time and 6 months the second time. Cost a whole dollar from the dollar store
The deet in the off will react with the plastic in the lens, and will leave it tacky feeling. The big issue is, the UV protection is gone, and that is why they fog up after time.
Bestnuggz The, oxidation is the cause of the foggy headlight. But, once that oxidation is removed by sanding, you need to put a fresh coat of clear on the light to prevent further oxidation. The clear coat has uv protection that prevents the oxidation of the headlight.
pretty fun "experiment" if I do say so! Disregard the haters. The comment below helped inform me too, so many thanks to them, but +1 for the sheer experiment you took the time to do. It was fun. I hope the passenger side headlight suffered fewer mosquito bites and the right had less cavities.
Hi Mr. Motley. Do you know what would really happen if you were to use the same methods of application to both items? the Off and the toothpaste with baking soda. If you applied the Off woods with a towel and in circular motion you should apply the toothpaste mix the same way; ***also the application should be for the same time, meaning that if you rubbed the Off woods for 5 minutes you should also apply the toothpaste mix for the same amount of time..there will be your comparison real results! I know I am going to try it! These ideas are great! Thanks.
What happens if you mix all 3? Seems like the paste & soda take the place of the sand papers, & the Off is the chemical that cuts through the crazy & fills in the uv deterioration...just a Social Worker observation...
If you ever wondered what would happen with WD- 40 vs Mono Fishing line CHECK this video out: ua-cam.com/video/434DGmf2EfM/v-deo.html
this is bullshit
Dude just get over it, get some clear coat spray and be done already...
Mr.goofie
in case you haven't figured it out, its because the outer layer of plastic is cracking and peeling on a micro level, tiny cracks that diffuse the plastic and its caused by the sun. what you need is something clear and liquid that goes into the cracks and then hardens. the WD 40 simply washed off
You should take some hot soapy water and clean the oils off the headlights and then do it properly.
Specifically what clearcoat spray do you use? I think this technique would work on stereo turntable dust covers. Filling the cracks that diffuse the light makes pretty good sense. Trying to reestablish that clarity by removing material would present a very vulnerable surface to the elements. I suppose. I'm no expert by any means.
Back in the day, our headlights were made of real glass. Never had to worry about it.
the Off didn't really help clear my headlight lens, but there have been no mosquito bites anywhere on the grill for the past month.
Hahahahahaha funny
Jim Keogh 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@Damien Har!!!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I am so putting off on my car! I live in BUGLAND!
If only the headlamps were still made of heavy glass, this wouldn't be an issue.
THEY USETO BE.BUT THE CAR COMPANIES FOUND ANOTHER MULTIMILLION DOLLAR INDUSERY TO RIP US OFF
I wish there were aftermarket glass alternatives at least!
CAFE standards killed the glass headlight.
Yes, so true but you know its all about the money for car manufacturer's!?!?
Guess that's the price you pay for great weather?
Issue with my car being on the North Coast of England... Seagull poo every day, I keep a bucket on the drive to clean it off😭
I’m gunna start brushing my teeth with Off!
😆
I knoooo 😂😂😂😂
Uh no please don’t!
“Toothpaste isnt meant to clean and restore”
Plastic is made from oil. So to make things simple for people, any liquid that contains oil will rehydrate the dry plastic, hence making it relatively clear again. Not sure if true but someone told me you can use oil based polyurethane for lasting results. Again please do your own research because I personally never tried this method.
No matter what you use to clean your headlight lens, the trick is to scrub horizontally ONLY. The cloudiness is crazing cause by dust impact and UV deterioration. If you scrub round and round or both sideways and up and down, it aligns some of the crazing but scrubbing in one direction only leaves a clearer and longer lasting lens.
This is true when polishing anything especially metal, i.e. aluminum & brass. It’s the aligning of the base that makes it shiny. 😊
If the headlight manufacturers did their job properly nobody would have this problem! One could accept this happening after 20 years, but not a few years. Unacceptable!
Hey as long as they are pretty when you drive it off the lot! The excuse I get for Lexan vs good ole glass is weight and durability. Weight maybe but durability? Granted glass would require the lens to be ribbed on the inside and you would lose the clarity of a Lexan housing.
Mine is 22 and has very minimal fading. Slight spots here and there, but def. Not the whole headlight. I lived on a farm for 4 years parking in the sun, It might have happened over that time. I thought it was glass but it's also not the type of plastic on newer cars🤔... it's a Daewoo Lanos 1999.
The reason why the lenses get that way is bc it's made of plastic. When we had glass lenses that didn't happen.
Yea fr like wtf
planned obsolescence
They knew what they were doing.
What causes the headlight lenses to get cloudy like that is something called "crazing" - which is when the UV light from the sun attacks the outer surface of the plastic and causes a lot of microscopic cracks in the surface. This diffuses the light hitting the surface instead of letting it through and makes it look cloudy.
Liquid products like OFF and WD-40 and even water, just fill in the cracks and make it look clear again. Of course, water evaporates quicker than oils, so it doesn't last as long, but even the oils will eventually wash away or evaporate and the headlights are still crazed like before.
If you had washed that OFF off with soap and water, it would have looked like it did before.
What actually works is plain old cheap buffing compound, a clean rag, and about 10 minutes of scrubbing in small circles all over the lens. The toothpaste will work some, but you need to scrub it on with a rag and not a toothbrush, plus you need to scrub a lot longer than five minutes.
Buffing compound has a little more aggressive abrasive, so it works faster than toothpaste, but it still takes some time and elbow grease.
It basically ablates the cracked surface and gets down to a new, smooth surface. It will stay clearer longer, but eventually will have to be done again due to continued crazing by the sun. My experience is that I have to do it every 12 to 18 months, depending on the car.
The most accurate description of what happened in the video! And the most underrated as i see it! People don't understand some basic things...it' common sense and logic thinking. In his case, toothpaste would have worked but you need to put some work into it- as in everything in this f** life! People are looking only for quick and wonder fixes that mostly don't exist. Things don't work this way. Most of the time you need to put a bit of effort into whatever you're doing to get good results; valid for most things in this world. Period.
Thanks for this educational comment.
If you use a fine sandpaper, like velvet almost, you get the yellowed oxidation off. Called wet sanding. Then after totally dry, spray lightly with a gloss, non-yellowing, UV top coat for plastic. You won't have to do it again.
@John Akston it might have to be done over, but not from the yellowing. The guy I watched on youtube put three coats of cleargloss on. It might last til you get a new car. I followed his directions and am quite happy with my car from 2000. The yellowing stained the driveway!
Well put Lazy D.
Best description yet.
That bathroom towel will
Never be the same again
I bet Samantha did not like you using that nice towel!
lol
You’re in big trouble when she sees that towel! And who’s toothbrush is that?...
The bottom
The toothpaste,brush,towel and the can of OFF was his wife's LOL
The absolute best way to clean these up. Start off with 600 grit sand paper sand it until the whole thing is hazy. Then go to 1000 grit. Then move to 2000 grit. Then get some good wax and a buffer. It will last a very long time. I do them all the time for people at work.
After the 2000 go to a 2500 or 3000 grit wet sand.Blow them off with some air/wipe them dry tape the trucks front off and spray them with clear coat. Then wet sand that with a 3000,dry and spray or wipe a thin layer of clear coat on and it will last for years. A friend taught me this and My trucks headlights after about 6yrs still look great.. Thats probaly the most permanent way to go..
Very true... This is the way
Yep. I bought a little portable sander just for headlights.
Yes but for those not wanting to deal with the clear coat, just end it with a synthetic wax, reapply every 6 months (or sooner if you drive a lot).
I sprayed. Mine with clear coat it fills in the scratches
I use an electric grinder on mine, and it ground all the plastic off, no plastic no problem
😂😂
I used OFF on my Tahoe headlights a year ago. Sprayed on and cleaned off, then sprayed on and let dry without rubbing it off. I was amazed and it still looks pretty good a year later.
just got me a tahoe 👀and will do as you said. THANKS😃👋
faithlilis - Don't spay bug repellant anywhere on your truck or car. It will ruin the paint. Spray it onto a rag and carefully wipe your headlights.
If you want to clean your head light plastic, use a wet 3000 grit sand paper, keep the water hose dribbling on the plastic as you rub in circles.
After you have cleaned the gunk off,
Then use chrome polish and a buffer wheel to polish back to a shine.
THEN MOST IMPORTANTLY
SPRAY THE CLEAN HEADLIGHTS WITH UV PROTECTIVE CLEAR PAINT!!!
You should be able to get all the necessary stuff at your local hardware store.
This is a ONE TIME AND DONE FIX!
At least for me it has been.
The toothpaste would probably have worked better if you worked it in with a rag. That way it would work much like a rubbing compound or wet sanding. Actually buffing is still probably the best option in my opinion.
Actually the toothpaste does work . Put the paste on with your finger rubbing in a circular motion once you cover the whole light use a clean damp rag and rub hard circular about 5 to 10 minutes rinse off throughly let dry then rinse off a second time then dry with clean cloth. Next step buy PPF .. 3M paint protection film and place this over your head lights film will last about 5 years . replace when needed .
Many year sago we traveled to a place where insect repellant was necessary, so we bought some stuff that had a very high content of DEET. Much higher than OFF! During the trip it leaked and the plastic cosmetics bag my wife had it in partially melted, so yes, DEET is a solvent to plastics.
Mother's brand mag and wheel polish. It is metal polish. Metal polish removes oxidation. Takes two minutes with microfiber cloth. Buff in hard with two fingers. Wipe off with clean part of cloth. 5 ounce container at Walmart in wax section. Works about 4 months. Buff again it gets better. It will not work if it is heat damage. Homeless guy showed me.
I bet your wife was impressed when she saw the dirty bathroom towel! 😁
She probably unalived him!😂
And he probably used her toothbrush too!
you talking about "I'm too cheap to go buy another headlight" lmaoooooooo ME TOOOOOO
From what I see buying new costs a ton, I'd rather try something more affordable..
" Remember, I'm not a scientist. I'm just a dude spraying OFF on some headlights". Absolute gold. Haha
9
What if you cover it with the protective film immediately after polishing ?
What does off is suppose to be is it like a miskito killer??
😆 I was reading this comment just as he was saying it in the video
After 15 years on a used car lot, I used off on a lot of cars. You will have better luck by spraying the off on the rag (microfiber) first and apply it to the headlight in a fast swiping motion horizontally. If you get too much on the headlight, it WILL soften the plastic cover.
Dude, use a towel or rag and use that with the toothpaste. You gotta scrub man...you ain't fightin cavities you're buffing a headlight.
Classic comment .... you ain't fighting cavities you're buffing a headlight !
Lmaooo
Lol
Yup, used some arm and hammer toothpaste on my old headlights before waxing it with some fancy ceramic wax and two years in they're looking good as ever. Probably get better results just using increasing grits of sandpaper and wet sanding though. (Albeit at $2 for a tube toothpaste makes a compelling quick fix that doesn't eat your clearcoat if you overspray.)
i know...i thought the exact same thing...lol...tiny little brush...
Tooth paste totally works. But you have to apply it with a tiny piece of cloth, not a toothbrush.
I thought that was the case.
Yeah, I didn't think the tooth brush was a fair comparison!
What I've done on my vehicles that works great and for years is, I sand the headlights or taillights fog lights etc whichever I'm doing with 1,000 fine sand paper until they're smooth smooth, then I wash em off and dry em, then I clear coat them with spray paint clear, let em sit a couple of hours then buff em, it works for years. This works for me just wanted to share
All you need is toothpaste and towel .Rub until clear. Works
I have done the same thing and it does work well. Make sure you use spray paint with UV protection or it will start to turn yellow.
What kind of vehicles do you have?
@@frankbama3684 I've had different years makes trucks over the years, right now I currently drive my 07 Silverado Classic and my 99 Yukon
I have a 2003 Honda CRV. Did both headlights about 2 years ago and still looks good.
I used to work at a car parts place and someone showed me using Meguiar's Marine one step compound to clean (used to clean gel coats on boats, so it's gentle) the headlights. We used a regular wax applicator pad and went to work. Yep, you gotta apply some elbow grease. Once they are clean and shiny, you give the headlights a nice coat of the Meguiars wax to keep them protected which lasted a couple of months. Reapply the wax and it kept the headlights clear.
I've also used the bug spray, it works, but over time it clouds up again. The clear coat spray idea is a good one.
O.k.
Compound and if you have buffing wheel definitely makes a difference than seal it with a good polish to prevent future damage
Light rubbing compound works as well or better than any kit. The abrasive grit actually rubs off the surface of the plastic, which is what has become pitted and oxidized, leaving clear plastic below. A good polishing after using the rubbing compound really makes them clear and shiny, and this method will last as long as the original headlamp did because you are starting with new surface, not one that has just been filled in with an oily substance.
Can you give me the name of a rubbing compound and polishing compound to get please. Thx
@@kathymaclaren2711 you can used jewelry polish as well I’m sure. Auto Zone has that compound as well. Should look like thick lotion
As a professional who polishes everyday wet a towel apply the toothpaste. The abrasive is very fine it may take 3 applications. ( NO BAKING SODA ITS TO ABRASIVE IT CAN REMOVE TARNISH FROM SILVER ) Never use a toothbrush it will leave fine scratches of its own. The light grit in the toothpaste will polish the plastic lense surface to remove tiny surface cracks that diffuse the light and make it look foggy. If the surface has deeper crazing use lava soap the pumice in the lava soap is more aggressive than toothpaste and will polish the plastic smooth faster. Then finish up with toothpaste. After you make them as clear as possible seal them with a good car wax this will make them even more clear. Like when you use floor wax on an old scratched vinyl floor.
What wax do you recommend?
@@natenowicki1426 something approved for clear coat finishes
Is Lava soap still made?
Don't use a tooth brush jeezus!! An old t-shirt and some elbow grease.
Old T shirts are great for hayfever or head colds. Ultra soft, easy on the nose, and washable. Don't want to use one that's been used for chemicals or oily stuff tho.
The problem with DEET is the chemical reaction softens the polycarbonate lens on the headlight. It will clear up the haze but the haze will comeback pretty quick. You need to apply a UV protectant to maintain the clarity.
So use off then suntan oil? Got it!!
What people fail to tell you is that toothpaste works like rubbing compound...you rinse your headlights and put a quarter sized amount on your buffing wheel and polish your headlights on high speed. Then make sure you follow up with headlight polish to prevent your shiny headlights from fading in the sun. Restoring headlights is basically removing the damaged top coat of plastic. The problem with all restore jobs is that you end up removing the hard factory finish so you keep having to polish with rubbing compound and polish it once a year to maintain it.
I asked my dentist (who is a big car nut) about the toothpaste. He said the reason it wasn't too good is that you didn't floss after.
Lol stop it!
Lol, stop it
Lol
Mac Sterling 😂🤣😂🤣
I’ve been having a really rough time lately but you not only gave me a smile but also a genuine laugh with your word “scratchly.” Thank you!! And great idea with the off, I never woulda thought of it
I used Off to remove sticky glue on a window from a privacy film. Worked great even though I thought I'd die from the fumes.
Apply a protectant after cleaning the lights. No matter the cleaning method, the finish won't last long without it.
What protective product would you suggest?
@@MusicGoodies- Any spray can of clear coat would work. Nu Finish or McGuires. In addition to looking incredible, they will easily stay in that condition for another 6 months.
Somebody may have already said this, but Crest toothpaste works really well, especially if you apply a thick layer of it (I use half a tube for each headlight), let it sit, scrub, then spray it off. Personally its my favorite method (the most effective for such a low price), and you only have to apply it every few months.
What kind of Crest? Regular or one with whitening? Thats interesting.
@@cardinaldriver mi
I used Evaporust. Bought it for the running rust on my car. It failed. Some of the Evaporust got on my headlight and Bam! The cloud came off the headlight. It actually worked. Just saying.
WD40, OFF is a cheap fix. You just have to apply it often or after each car wash. Not too bad for the price.
Spend about $15 for a bottle of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and a couple microfiber cloths and you'll only have to do it once -- no scrubbing...just enough pressure in small mellow circles with a dime-size blob of the compound on one of the towels, buff away with the other, and they'll be crystal clear...no need to repeatedly reapply. It also works really well on tail lights -- they'll look brand new. Keep the compound around for other similar cleaning needs, and of course detailing your car.
@@TroyaJamilyn n my m
X
@@TroyaJamilyn?
@@elnewbie2611 Yes?
Need to add two more steps to the OFF option, 1. put polish and 2. clear coat for UV protection, will make it last longer
The correct way I use off for this !! First have a rag or baby diaper ,, the softer the better one that will not leave lint ... Spray entire headlamp , give it five seconds or it will melt the plastic ..rub lamp off in strokes only one direction only couple times . You will see fantastic difference but do only once in 24 hour period , then you can repeat if needed . The affects will last for long time , regardless of comments I have seen below . Have made many people very happy with this at my shop. free of charge
Nice, I’ve started using “off” instead of toothpaste, my teeth are brilliant but my gums have melted
Hi. I used to ride motorcycles... the thing that was always recommended for exactly this for both fairing windshields and light covers is.... Meguires Wax Cleaner. Works like a charm. Just put it on, wait a minute or so, and then rub it off. Cleans up clear plastic amazingly
Monty King - That's what I use. It's a great product for slightly neglected paint surfaces. On a car with slightly foggy headlamps, it only lasts about a month if the car isn't usually garaged. I rubbed them with plenty of pressure for about 10 minutes each. They looked brand new for about 1 week and by 4 weeks, not so good. DuPont rubbing compound first, then DuPont polishing compound second, then Meguiar's Cleaner Wax worked better. Regardless, the lenses MUST have a durable UV protection applied or they will not look good for long after restoration.
OMG! I see where you get the “Yak” moniker. This could have been three minutes long at most.
No matter what method is used to clean and clear the Haze, doesn't it need some protective layer to keep it clear for some time?
Yes, that's what I figured out. Found Cerakote Headlight restoration on Amazon and eBay.
I've used Ben's 30% deet and it actually melts the film off of the headlight vs cleaning or filling cracks as some people think it does. You can feel it start to get tacky, then see it start to remove the foggy layer altogether. Once it's looking clear, one last wet wipe to allow it to glaze over and you're set for 6-8 months or longer. Fastest, cheapest and easiest method to restore headlights imo.
Do you just spray it on and let it sit?
@@LarissaNicole1 I sprayed it on a rag or sock flipped inside out, then smeared it across the headlight housing evenly. Sprayed the sock again and slowly wiped it side to side from the top to bottom until I felt and saw the hazy layer begin to dissolve. Repeat once or twice more and then with a clean part of the sock, spray it pretty wet so you can coat the entire headlight with a wet/gloss coat and let it dry. I spray the sock away from my car as to avoid getting it on the paint although it hasn't shown any bad reactions when I did get some on it.
Dang, imagine what that does to your skin
@@BlackVibeBallsack so toxic. Use Avon Skin So Soft for mosquitos.
@@jugmothafukr you should do a video! 👍for the info and step by step
After you clean it with oFF use a spray can of clear paint to protect it and it will last way longer and look way cleaner.
Does that really work?
@@bamaangel7146 yes it works
Yea, it works, but when you spray on the Off, wait about 15 or 20 sec before wiping it off.
Do the toothpaste, wash then use off or WD-40. It won’t last as long as just having it done professionally or using products designed for headlights. 😊
Use brasso it's what we used in the Navy to clean jet canopies, works great on the small cracks.
Been using colgate for years to buff scratches out of CDs. Don't use a toothbrush though use paper towel or soft cloth. Elbow grease a must
What's elbow greas?
@@lauratorres6453 physical work, especially vigorous polishing.
I used off. It worked for two years ( a couple times), but eventually it started to lightly melt the plastic. Of course I live in Florida, it’s hot.
I'm retired. I don't drive at night. No headlight problems. 😁
Me too.
Yup, because everyone knows when you are going for a polished clear glass finish, making your compound extra gritty is the way to go....
The toothpaste without baking soda works great. Use the Colgate cavity and worked great for only $1. I didn't use a a tooth brush, used a dish washing brush with short bristles. Don't use circular motions, but up down and left right. Let the toothpaste dry while you do the other headlight. Go back to the first headlight and buff the toothpaste off (I used a 6" electric buffer). Don't wash it off, buff it like with was. Then wash the headlight. Repeat on the other headlight. I did all this with no water hose at my apartment.
You might have to do this 2 or more times, but it works. I did this on a 1999 Honda civic, 20 year old headlighrs that were totally yellow fogged. 2 applications and they are almost totally clear! For one dollar. 3rd application will get them totally done. Spend a bit of time with the toothpaste, then wax the headlights. Cheaper than the kits.
Colgate also works for buffing out scratches in CDs.
How long did it last before going bad again or are they still looking good ?
Use 3000 grit sand paper instead of a towel or tooth brush. The results will amaze you. Thanks for the tip :)
Really? Cleaned the glass without permanent scratches? Would have loved to see a video...
Or extra fine grade steel wool, maybe.
@@junehutchinson3658 check out the video link below. Believe it or not, high grit abrasives are used to polish surfaces like glass and stone & metals :)
@@briandesmondcouche sorry, I can't see any video link. Am I doing something wrong? Does the process work on both glass and the newer plastics being used? Tyia. 😎🙋🤔
@@junehutchinson3658 it's not glass !! Plastic, keep using finer grades of sandpaper and change directions of sanding.
I’ve tried W40 and its good as new and now I aso tried this OFF and man.....it dis a well done job too 👍. Liked all y’all videos including Kayak fishing’s as well.
The best way I’ve found to do head lights is to take 400 and 600 and 1200 wet sanding paper and buy you’re self a can of none yellowing and none fading clear coat in a raddle can, then take a garbage bag cut out for the headlight and tape it down and make sure that you tape the rubber around the headlight. And you want to soak the sanding paper for a half an hour in warm water, and start sanding with the 400 first, and as you sand you’ll see a milky film coming off that’s the clear coat from the factory. Then go to the 600 grit and sand the whole headlight now use the 1200 and and till the headlight looks smooth. And dry the headlight and if you have an air compressor blow out and standing water, then let dry and wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and let dry.. now start out with a lite coat of the clear coat let dry for 20 minuets then apply a second coat make it look wet BUT not to the point it wants to run or sag, and let dry for 25 minutes. Now put on the last coat and try to make it look wet and make sure to spray the whole headlight. This works really great mine has been done for two years now..
I seen it done in a video.
I've been told to wet sand with super fine grain sandpaper, then spray with polyurethane.
To clear the top layer of “yellow haze” off any headlamp assembly, you must remove the compromised clear coat that is sprayed onto the surface by the manufacturer.
This can be done with sandpaper only. After you complete;y remove the old yellowed top layer, you must polish (buff out) the original plastic to a clear, high luster.
Then you must spray a “non-yellowing”, high gloss, clear coat lacquer finish on those shiny new headlamps. Otherwise all the work you’ve done will quickly deteriorate.
There is no quick, cheap solution.
What grit paper? What do I use to buff the plastic before clear coat?
Exactly - there’s nothing that’s going to stop the abrasion from driving.
@@shillbillythekid3105 I would use a very fine grit and of course make sure you tape off the rest area when spraying. ❤
I usually go from 2000 and finish it off with 8000 grit (I don’t recommend making that big of a jump in sand paper go from 2000 then 2,500 and go up from there. Also my best jobs were when I wet sanded it) and then polish it after (make sure it’s completely dry before you polish)
Great video. I agree that some of these restoration kits are expensive and they usually are a one-car application. So I'm curious, how long did the Off last?
I suppose you like to waste your time a lot ..
@@simonethier5793 damn why not let him learn from his mistakes bro why be a ass to others who done nothing to you bro need to take that shit to whoever pissed you off not people on UA-cam stop bullying screen warrior
"HONEY WHERE'S MY DAM TOWEL"!?
Laughed, I said oh, she'll be looking for that towel when she gets back home
at 0:28 I got distracted by the impression of Will Ferrell's impression of Harry Carey.
Hey, loved your inference of what works. Using the Off every weekend for a month might be even better for long term. Then once a month. The light assembly on my 2009 BMW 328i cost $1,200 apiece to have replaced. If I do it the assembly’s cost $1,900.
I think it’s worth me cleaning them once a month with Off bug spray.
I’m going to try the bug spray on my outdoor light fixture that has yellowed.
Thanks.
Did you melt your headlight plastic off yet? Thats what using spray long term can do
This recent video showed "Repel" working very well. Will try it. WTHeck.
There's clearing with sanding or compound/polish, but then any work needs to be sealed to prevent oxidation from happening again with a few weeks. I coat with 4everClear by SafeTclear after sanding up to 2000 grit
Fun to watch. Thanks. Boy some other people have some anger/immaturity issues.... This fellow is
providing information and entertainment. Anyway, keep it up.
Agreed! He is just like any of us folks who is trying to educate the public in a way that is cohesive and informative. I give him a thumbs up for just being plain truthful and honest. No tomfoolery here.
He should keep it up, like you said, for fun and entertainment. I actually found the comments more instructional and informative than the video. He yackety yaks too much more than he should.
Harmless fun and entertaining! Thanks ~ all the way from New York!
Thanks for watching !
Thanks for the video, Yak. After spending the evening watching video's and reading comments, I've sanded, wiped with mineral spirits, and clearcoated the front lenses. Looks great - so far (1 hour). Gotta say that the claims that the hazing comes from UV can't be the case. The rear lenses on my 2004 Lexus are very clear with no treatment. Hmmm... same sun, different end of the car. I suspect the highway-driving sand-blasting over the last 16 years and 190,000 miles are the cause of the front lense issue. The less one drives, the better it gets for everybody.
I was told it's where water 💦💧💦 or condensation gets behind them, n heat up all day, so plastic almost cooks, sounds reasonable but I'm grasping at miracle 😆🤣❣️... The kits do work for few months, but I have to do again for winter ❄️ n rain ☔❣️
My theory is that the motor oil residues on the roads, or the residue from the road itself, gets misted up onto your headlights when it's raining and you're getting misted by the person in front of you. I think the residue degrades the plastic. But that's just my theory.
There is a clear coat over front headlights. The front lens' have a different softer plastic so as not to crack or break when rocks hit them. The rear lights have a harder plastic lens.
OFF DOES eat away the plastic, thats how it works...just like the sandpaper does in the first step of headlight restoration kits. But after that top layer of plastic is gone, you need to seal the exposed plastic and then protect it from UV damage to keep the plastic clear long term
You did the toothpaste all wrong. Just put the toothpaste on a clean rag like an old t-shirt and rub the light for a minute. Then rub off all the toothpaste after it dries with the clean side of the t-shirt. It works for me! Good Luck
Same here. I cleaned my lenses with toothpaste and it worked fine. Just need to apply wax afterwards.
That's how I did it too. It works pretty good.
right, just because you're using toothpaste does not mean you have to use a toothbrush to apply. just use another hand towel, just ruin another one from your wife's set. ;-)
You missed my original post where I said use an old t-shirt! And make sure you use White toothpaste. I put it on with a dry rag, and take it off with a damp one. It cost me nothing as the toothpaste was expired, and about to be thrown out!
@@billg7492 you have expired toothpaste? Your not brushing often enough
Why not use rag w the toothpaste. Add pressure get it clean.
The "Off", like the WD-40, is only a temporary solution. If you don't want to replace the lights, you must sand them down using increasingly fine grit starting at about 800, then 1000 and finally 2500-3000, followed by a buffing compound, and then with a polishing compound. The entire process goes to increasingly finer abrasives. But you're not done yet. The original UV coating that was oxidized, degraded and crazed is now gone and must be replaced. There are a variety of permanent final UV coatings for headlamps to give them a clear coat. Without that, the micro-porous polycarbonate will degenerate and suffer UV damage within weeks or months. If that seems too much work, especially for very badly hazed and crazed lenses, the cost of replacing the headlamp assemblies may become attractive. Depends on the amount of work required and the value of your time.
That's the best, most thorough explanation and solution I've seen. I completely concur!
What is your suggestion for a permanent final UV coating?
@@lindademercer3832 My suggestion is replacing the lamp housing. Attempting to polish these is difficult at best, marginal results, and tend to fog back over quickly
@@Sparks68 tyvm.
That was the best thing I've seen all day. Thank you for proving me right! 😎
After cleaning the damn thing, spray a clear coat on it and it will last way longer
Yeah anytime you wet something it's going to remove the flaws, depending on the depth of the damage no different than cleaning your silver set
That's what she said
I use copper cleaner and polish.
I found that Automatic Manual Transmission fluid is by far the best for this as well as on mirrors a windows.Also backup light fluid works but it takes more time and scrubbing.🥴😱
Backup light fluid????? Just thought you might appreciate that someone actually read your comment. LOL
Hahaha, but it only works while you're backing up in first gear. Love your comment.
Can't believe you used that beautiful hand towel!
What you want to use is brake fluid . Brake fluid will take off a thin layer . Use 1/2 cup on a rag rub in small circles then add more and smooth it out with even pressure straight across back and fourth. Brake fluid lasts for several months even years. It removes the layer that is oxidized or weathered or fogged up and creates a like new surface. The off looked good but didnt last long . Off only masks it with oil layer brake fluid removes the damaged layer of plastic and allows you to smoth out the new clean layer.
Very easy no hard scrubbing only rubbing lightlyand very lightly to smooth it.
Watch the Chris Fix video on how to restore them. Wet dry sandpaper and some spray UV resistant clear coat. Did mine like two years ago and still going strong.
ncfishboy try scotty kilmer and it does work, i tried chrisfix and only last two months with crack paint. chris fix cost you around $20 compared to scotty cost u around $16. 😂🤣
😂🤣 so chrisfix is way smarter than the people who make the product that scotty Kilmer have tried? yap chris is smart😂🤣
btw ur chisfix is hiding from scotty kilmer 😂🤣
ncfishboy and soapywater
Is this a super fine sandpaper that you used? Do you remember which number? I heard that works miracles.
Pure acetone (nail polish remover) works great. Just don't get the stuff with conditioners in it; get pure acetone. And don't get it on your paint (it is paint remover after all).
Is it a short lived fix or longer term fix ❔❔❔❣️... I'll try anything, I've contemplated 🆕🚗 lights but it happens every 🚗 I've owned near too, thank you for a fix 🤞😳❣️
No six packs were harmed in this video 😂. Thanks man! My entertainment for the night!
This was SO funny! And educational. Thanks to your research, think I'll buy the kit.
😅😅
Just my experience, but I used Deep Woods Off and my headlights stayed clear for a year and counting. I passed it on to a friend, and his headlights have remained clear for 8 months to date. Not sure about others, but Deep Woods Off is definitely working well for me.
i just use clear coat spray works very well ,you could use off then clear coat
What’s elbow grease
Rubbing vigorously
I have had Off partially dissolve an old plastic watch I was wearing when hiking in the swamp years ago.
I still wouldn’t use it on headlight covers. I just did my wife’s car with a Sylvania kit and it worked very well.
If u hit that clean lens with a couple if coats of UV resistant clear coat itll prolly stay clear
Just because it’s toothpaste doesn’t mean you use a tooth brush. Use a cloth and buff it off. It works perfect.
Yes Andrew, I just came to say the same thing!
If you need to test cleaning products then the cleaning method must be the same, otherwise you do not know if the product or cleaning tool does the job.
Just as well he wasn't using milk to clean the headlights. They'd have been polished with a bowl of corn flakes.
I'm so tired of all these myths and hacks! The headlights come with a factory clear coat on the lenses!!! When it gets old it gets yellow and cracks..... It's why they look the way they do. Cheep fast and best fix is water sand the headlights with 1000 grit paper and spray them with a adhesive promotor then a few coats of clear coat! Done!!! Ok people get on with your lives already
Cheaper and easier than that.....plastic rubbing compound. It's made to do exactly that and can be foud just about anywhere. People are always trying to re-invent the wheel...
antonio mendo
antonio mendoza why don't you stick a headlight up your ass with the grit sandpaper!! cheap, fast and best fix!! Bwahahahahaa!!
antonio .. i'm so tired of all you rude fucktards........be polite n get on with YOUR life already.
@@sharlae8838 22223 isi iikioxss z car jo s7i88
Saw a youtube video where baking soda and water is used to make a paste. Probably the abrasiveness is what restores the headlight.
Solved my headlight problem on my old dog van by never driving it at night. :-)
must be nice to have no life .... lol.
Mike S I drive the Acura at night, only use the van for a pickup and taking the dogs to the park and back.
You asked for comments from scientists. I am a scientist [research chemist], and I am commenting that this video is about six times as long as necessary.
Sun Rise does this dude get more money becuase it’s longer?
Cool story mr "scientist"
Just because you have a.d.d doesn't mean the video is long.. it means you have attention issues 😂
Brasso and a clean cloth and you wont use anything else I guarantee it PLUS you can use it to buff up metal as well.
up till 3 years ago i was a tech at a toyota dealer . if you look close at your headlight you will see where the heat of the parking bulbs has melted the lens.. toyota dealers would replace them under warranty as a defect... go get new ones.....free
His idea that deet dissolves the top layer is correct kinda. I'm a nail tech and I have had deet bug spray corrode my acrylic nails.
What I have to tell is the fix.
1. Use soap and water and clean headlights
2. U have to remove the factory sprayed on protective UV Clear Coat. Using the finest auto body wet sand paper and soap and water till old clear coat is remove.
3. Tape off all auto body parts like hood grills finders bumpers.
4. Go to auto body shop or local auto parts store ask for a spray can of UV protective clear coat for head lights. Follow directions.
So, which one works best on teeth?
Entertain us...
Mechanical picking of the plaques. Only to have to go back a few months later to repeat the procedure!
Regular Crest Toothpaste, Flossing, Listerine Mouthwash. Brush up and down not across. Don't forget to clean the tongue.
Daily 2-3 X That will keep an make your grill gleem
. aa
Uncle Fidel f
@Uncle Fidel - LMFAO 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Years ago I used toothpaste and the results were excellent. I only used toothpaste. I let the toothpaste film set and dry. I rubbed the toothpaste off with a course cotton towel. The lens was still clear months afterwards.
For the toothpaste you are supposed to buff a generous amount over headlights and let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes and then buff it off
i used toothpaste n baking soda n scrub it with a cloth then wash it off, then I polish it, it stayed clear for 6mths
I use a cleaner called Plastx cleaner polish. I use it about 3 times a year. It only takes a small dab and it takes about 3 minutes of polishing to do both headlights and it stays clean for about 4 months. I've had the same bottle for about 5 years as you only use a small dab each time. Note!! the left side of your vehicle is determined by the drivers view as he sits in the car.
I can't say thank you enough for what you wrote. It's bothered me for years about the whole left and right thing with cars. I always use the terms 'driver's side' and 'passenger side' to avoid any potential confusion. It's happened to me in the past, even with mechanics who have misunderstood which side someone was referring to when trying to fix something. Their left and the other person's left weren't the same and the mechanic couldn't find any problems. After a lot of stupid and unnecessary discussion, it's always figured out. But damn! Personally, I'm sticking to driver and passenger, but I'm so happy someone finally told me which end was up (so to speak). Thanks again!
Tape around your headlights with masking tape then start wet sanding with 400 Grit go to 800 Grit than a thousand grit... try and work with a hose and keep the light wet the whole time, or as much as possible while you're wet sanding. Then if you go to 2000 and then finish off with 3000 and then buy a glaze such as Meguiars and polish it up and they will look brand-new. It will last you quite a while I do headlight restoration and it's the best and longest thing out there... then just keep them waxed every couple of months like you would and should do with a new set of headlights.
Take care...
I use Griots Garage. Done with Meguires stuff
Your process is totally correct buddy, but as a caveat with all due respect every set of headlamps can be tainted to different degrees, and 4-8 may be too abrasive if there is only a little pitting. I would always start closer to the minimum, something closer to a 1000, and a bit more elbow grease, as many people trying this for the first time will be expecting a quick fix, and imo if people are unsure of what they are looking for as a base wet sand, they will generally over rub, and the scratches on the outer headlamp that result can be just as bad if not worse than the original fogging issue. I think the 'glaze' you intimate is definitively a 'clear coat spray' which may somewhat confuse some if they are unsure
I wouldn't wax them I use a uv protection clear coat and pit 2 light coats on and last me here in Colorado1 yr before I have to do it again
I use to own a car lot. I used warm/hot soapy water and a 2000 grit sand paper. Then hand buffed with a polishing compound (NOT a buffing compound). Sometimes repeated this a time or two more and you wont believe how well it does. Lasts a lot longer than anything else I tried and a whole lot cheaper than buying restoration kits.
Thanks for sharing
I did power steering fluid. Put on a thick layer and let it dry. Buff it off and repeat as needed. Worked for a few weeks the first time and 6 months the second time. Cost a whole dollar from the dollar store
The deet in the off will react with the plastic in the lens, and will leave it tacky feeling. The big issue is, the UV protection is gone, and that is why they fog up after time.
Drew Rischbieter it's oxidation not lack of UV protectant. Rubbing compounds work best, especially those for marine paint jobs.
Bestnuggz The, oxidation is the cause of the foggy headlight. But, once that oxidation is removed by sanding, you need to put a fresh coat of clear on the light to prevent further oxidation. The clear coat has uv protection that prevents the oxidation of the headlight.
pretty fun "experiment" if I do say so! Disregard the haters. The comment below helped inform me too, so many thanks to them, but +1 for the sheer experiment you took the time to do. It was fun. I hope the passenger side headlight suffered fewer mosquito bites and the right had less cavities.
Hi Mr. Motley. Do you know what would really happen if you were to use the same methods of application to both items? the Off and the toothpaste with baking soda. If you applied the Off woods with a towel and in circular motion you should apply the toothpaste mix the same way; ***also the application should be for the same time, meaning that if you rubbed the Off woods for 5 minutes you should also apply the toothpaste mix for the same amount of time..there will be your comparison real results!
I know I am going to try it! These ideas are great! Thanks.
What happens if you mix all 3? Seems like the paste & soda take the place of the sand papers, & the Off is the chemical that cuts through the crazy & fills in the uv deterioration...just a Social Worker observation...