The reason I run push pull on my rad is because I have it set as part of the case's intake and the extra airflow from the fans means more air for my other components
Yea I did push pull on my previous build and noticed that mine usually stayed 3-4 degrees C cooler. It never got overheated with the with just the push method. But I had two extra fans lying around and just wanted to try it. And it stayed cooler, run after run.
I just bought a Corsair AIO and surprisingly enough it came with 24 of the long standoff screws, meaning I could mount my old fans onto the other side of the radiator for a nice 6 fan push / pull on the intake. I've never seen cpu temps this low in my life lol.
I theorized that you need static pressure fans to push air through the radiator, and high airflow fans to pull air from the radiator. I am guessing this is the best configuration you can have. Also, having an aggressive fan curve keep your CPU cool in the long run as the heat rises, the fan velocity also reacts and push heat air faster. The faster you get rid of heat, the faster your fans would need to comeback to mean. What is limiting heat dissipation practice these days are putting sound levels limitations. "They don't want noise" If you are willing to accommodate momentary fan noise for 1 to 5 seconds, you won't need to deal with it for a longer time.
Im planning to Add 2 Push fan on my front 240mm rads (custom-loop set up of 360mm+240mm for CPU). But i will use Same exact Static Fans, PULL fan will be 15% higher RPM than PUSH fan since its located at the front Mesh To Create a Negative Air flow at the front ... Pull fans inside the case pulls air more efficiently while reducing noise since its Front Case Fan for Push Fan (obviously Push fan will get more restriction in a pull push config instead of push fan, push fan will help pull fan and higher pull fan RPM will be useless due to restriction of the fins will only increase noise while for nuetral same RPM push+pull will same effect push fan will is still restricted than pull so lowering push fan rpm will not really affect performance in terms of air going out of the rad but will greatly reduce noise). Just like this vid temp difference is within margin of error 2 degree's same w/ other test i watch .. I'm only doing so that front intake will get a lil bit boost of airflow going inside the case (rads reduces airflow after air passing through) its for the manually OC Samsung B-die RAM to increase cooling which is why i'm only uses 240mm rad+ 120mm w/o rad "3x120mm at the front" 1 120mm fan blows fresh air directly to the RAM to prevent error due to tight timings since samsung b-die are temp sensitive.
Always mounted my aio at the front with a push/pull and always see lower temps, than mounting up top. I have two fans as intakes also under my gpu. It all really depends on your case and what you have to work with. If I mount up top I get slightly better gpu temps, if I mount at front I get slightly better cpu temps.
I'm actually really curious about results with a smaller cooler if you tested. I have more fans than I know what to do with so I'd love to know if I'd benefit at all from ordering a second set of screws to do a push-pull config on my smaller radiator.
I installed a Corsair 360 mm AIO with the included ML120 fans and added 3 additional ML120 fans to create a push-pull situation and installed it at the top of the case. (5000D airflow) The additional fans were not installed on the AIO radiator, but rather on the outside of the top section of the case. This was to minimize the space taken by the AIO on the inside of the case to allow clearance for the dominator DDR5 modules which are pretty tall. Measuring the temps with the original 3 fan set up vs. the push pull set up, I noticed a 4 degree drop in temps across the idle-full load spectrum. All settings were left to "auto" to allow the system to do it's thing. Using a 12900-K i9, the idle temps were around 52 degrees in normal and47.4 with the push-pull. The CPU never surpassed 83 degrees with the push-pull and 89 degrees in normal installation. I'm using 3 ML fans in the front, 3 ML fans on the side, 6ML fans push-pull on the AIO (which also serves as exhaust) 2 ML fans on the back for exhaust and 2 SP elite fans on top of the PSU housing that blows directly into the GPU triple fans (Asus ROG Strix RTX 3080 OC white). (All white system) The temp read out on the motherboard (MSI Force Z690) indicates a steady temp of 27 degrees at idle and 39 degrees at full load consistently. When I bring my hand close to the case, I can actually feel the cool airflow around the front and bottom edges. Using a EVGA T-2 1000 PSU to provide enough power. Using it for video/photo editing and content creation with no gaming.
It's good You may not see this comment due to being a two month old video, and you are even coincidentally talking of those "rushing to the comments" at 6:14, but my concern is more about something I don't believe you mentioned. The push-pull method may not be a considerably significant benefit for CPU temps in the majority of the population's use. However, there are times where this push-pull method will actually help everything else in the PC. I have three fans currently in the front intake of my airflow-oriented P400A. I have a fair strength CPU, 3700X and I don't even use it to it's max potential. I do use at the moment a single fan GTX1060 that only does well in my case because of the current high pressure airflow setup I have. Adding the radiator especially while changing the fans with those that came with the AIO, may suffocate the other components within the case. Such as the aforementioned GTX1060. I plan to also switch this out for a 3080. This 3080 will not only take in a lot of air, and will probably do so well with it's three fans, but it could easily heat up the other components in the PC if not the entire internal ambient temperature of the case. Push/pull method allows that lesser airflow to the case and rest of the components other than the CPU to be increased from the extra fans, whether that be to the same level as having three fans with no radiator, or even more which is the best case scenario. Cost of extra fans is not a factor for me though, and I can definitely attest to not seeing as much of a want to do push/pull if I needed to purchase more fans for it to be an option. My case already came with three fans, and they would be unused if I were not to use push/pull. Hopefully this is useful for anyone reading or for @TechteamGB Thanks for the video, love seeing the data.
Hahaha! I loved the editing and humor in this video. Great work! :-D And good info! Good to know. Rather than the hyper-details Steve gives, or extreme-overclocking and insane overkill like Jay might do (and don't get me wrong - I love those guys.) I love how you are more focused on info for the average and "casual enthusiast" users.
I think you underestimate how many people have extreme edition CPU's nowadays. My 10900k definitely needs 360mm setup. Loved the test though, it was the best one I've seen and gave me exactly what I needed.
@@thunkjunk For gaming it should be fine, but if using things like Cinebench etc it will rise above 95c pretty quickly and throttle the cpu, unless you delid the chip or go full watercooling, or both
@@thunkjunk It will keep it within safe operating limits at the very least. My friend has a 13900k on a older 360mm corsair cooler and hasnt had issues.
Great info and good video!! Seems like the only reason to go push pull is if you are running so hot you're in danger of losing performance from throttling, which I'm guessing is the vast minority of us?...
USing an ARCTIC LF II 280 AIO in a push-pull configuration. Agree that the reduced tempertures compared to only push or pull is small but it is present. I also do not notice the setup any more noisy then just push or pull. And they speed up for shorter periods to bring the temp down, etc. Overall, while it is not a essential mod, I am glad I added the two extra fans.
I use an Oversteel 120mm AIO (aka an ultra cheap Amazon jobby) with a 5800X, it idles around 35 and gaming load is around 65, give or take 5....it seems to be doing the job, well....but I see that Arctic monster and for no good reason I want a new case with space for that beast!
Push pull is superior and even his flawed logic confirms that. If you let pump and fans to slow down it’s not fair comparison like he himself noticed. Then aside it the push pull configuration should be side mounted to utilise the air temperature outside of the case… when you pumping warm air thought the radiator it kills the purpose of having the most effective cooling. The setups I did have run had complete radiator outside out the pc case so both sides of the radiator had a contact with colder air… You do completely ignore that the air is bounced back and pushed back trought the fans because the radioactive is restrictive to air flow, the turbulence of colder air on the radiator surface have better effect than any of those configurations you did have tested. My PC didn’t had any leds and it was old IBM BIG tower with hoses sticking out and a radiator screwed down outside, yes it was ugly but guess what? The OC was extreme on it, with the best possible configuration… For my current setup I do have Noctua because i don’t really care for the most effective cooling possible. And it’s often better than most aios.
I run a 280mm radiator and push and pull bec of my case maximum aio is 280 with 2 140 fans and in front i have 3×120 and the 2 fans are pulling on my aio and the 3 fans in front are sucking air to the aio and also my hardrives
My aio didn't come with fancy RGB fans. Even though it is mounted in the top of the case as exhaust, I still did a pull config so it will be easier to clean the rad when I need to. Also since the rad is what is hanging down and can be seen through the case door I think it is a cleaner look personally.
To me it looks like adding 3 fans to the Arctic cooler is like upgrading from a 3080 to a 3090 for 1080p low gaming. Of course you won't see a real different and that's because the bottleneck isn't in the fans. I'd guess the bottleneck is probably the pump/block.
Love this review. You exactly provided a solid answer to what Gamers Nexus brought up in his EKWB AIO Elite review regarding Push-pull fans being needed use case in non EKWB AIO setups but he never went back to that point in his review. You did. So now I understand that due to the large massive 360 Radiator of the ARTIC as well as the EKWB ELITE, those thicker rads already provides the necessary benefit for reducing heat from the rad with just one sided set of fans versus a thinner 360mm, or smaller sized 240/120mm radiator. You helped me figure out how I am going to tackle my current 360mm AIO's inefficiency. See, I'm one of those crazy users that use a AIO on to cool a Ryzen Threadripper and thus I deal with the other end of this matter which is not having enough cooling. My rad being a MSI MAG CoreLiquid, it's radiator is much thinner than these from ARTIC and EKWB, so I think that radiator would best benefit from additional fans added for a push / pull setup.
great video. although I think given the extra thickness of the arctic radiator, the extra fans just make it insane, and even harder to find a case to fit it in. I think the more interesting/realistic scenario would be to see if you were to replace those low rpm/cfm fans that come with it, with something close to what you get on the EVGA CLC units. sure they're louder, but if you want to eek out all the thermal performance you can, then it would be interesting to see how much thermal improvement that buys you. I think linus or someone on youtube reviewed the corsair h80i v2 a few years ago, which not only came with a thicker radiator, but also dual fans. he tested that h80 with one fan, against a corsair unit with a thinner radiator that he put the h80 fans onto. the h80 with one fan outperformed the other unit with two fans.
I have done this exact test, and I found that the temperature difference between push and pull is negligible. The difference between push and push/pull was within tolerance, so basically nothing. I have push/pull on my front rad that is intake, but only because I wanted the RGB to be visible from both the inside and the outside, otherwise push/pull makes at most one or two C of difference, not enough to bother with unless you are trying for overclocking records or something of that nature. Anyone who claims a higher difference with push/pull, I would love to see your literature and measurements because I don't believe you. Maybe (just MAYBE) on a thick rad you might see a difference.
Going to be going with a push/pull 360 in the front of almost the same case as you (enthoo m pro, same case different front plate, better airflow) from a dual 120mm tower cooler. Upgraded to a 3080ti and it’s choking my cpu pretty bad right now.
This was awesome - Thank you! I have always done push pull setups on my 360 aios and was looking at a new case that did not have room for 6 fans - Nice to know I don't have much to worry about.
the 13xxx series processors are hot, I have i9 13900k with AIO Corsair H150I LCD XT 360mm and when I tested it in cinebench it passes 100 degrees in some cores and in games it rises to 75 in 2k in rendering up to 90
Lmfao 😂😂😂 if a cpu is 60-75c... do you think the temperature inside the case is that hott??? The ambient temp of the case is 30-50c.. the way radiators work as long as the temp is -10c then it will cool down. This also applies to car radiators and ac radiators
Awesome video! More fans ≠ more better. A simple way to think of this is fan rpm is directly related to air flow through it. So 1 fan spinning at 1000rpm moves the exact same amount of air as 2 of those fans lined up with each other at 1000 rpm. The only difference is pressure. You’ll see a minor improvement since it is overcoming the friction of the radiator better, but you won’t necessarily ever be able to run the double fan set up at a lower rpm Edit: not disagreeing with him at all, simply adding my thoughts
@@greggreg2458 yes, simply because it’s such a thick radiator that you overcame the friction. The air speed through the radiator is identical between setups when the temps are the same
@@storms13 Also fin density matters, not only thickness. More fans can be more better, not always, sometimes fully populate the case can ruin airflow patterns. My main rig, 4 rads push pull (around 30 fans, fan curve tops out a 750rpm) is more silent than my prebuilt with 3 fans (1200rpm max) i have them both in my room and i want to chance the case so bad ahahaha
Push/pull might make a difference if your AiO doesn't have much...err... headroom. On my old system with a puny OG Corsair H60, adding a second high pressure fan and mounting the rad in the rear to suck in fresh air through the rad did make a difference (OCed i5-4670K). On my current system, just removing the rather restrictive front-panel from my case for testing purposes (bequiet Pure Base 600) resulted in 3 - 5°C lower CPU temps under max load (OCed i5-12600K). I guess what I'm trying to say is that getting cooler air (and lots of it) onto your radiator is what you want to do - and I think the mounting spot and "ease of access to outside air" will be more important than the fan configuration. As much as I would like to top mount, I'm pretty sure that would bring CPU temps up no matter how many fans I'd use, since I'd be blowing warm air from inside the case into the rad.
I have that exact cooler on alder lake, the 12900k, and it runs hot! I can easily hit 100c and throttle when running cinebench. And at that temp the cooler is loud. I've downvolted as best I can so it no longer throttles but i'm still at 95c. So saving a couple of degrees here would be worth it to me. It's fine at idle, it's fine when gaming, but my main use case is video encoding for hours on end with the CPU maxed so I need more cooling here.
Hi, just replying as you commented recently. The fans on my Radiator are not running at all. One of them runs on boot up, but then will not kick in, was hitting 83c when playing RDR2 after 2 hours, and I don't like it (I5 10600k). Any thoughts?
@@Sum41rthe1 check the fan curve in the bios. It could be disabled. And of course check the connections. Both to the board as well as the fans on the radiator itself.
@@sagerdood checked it many times. Are you running Cinebench r23 to check temps under load. It’s a pretty common issue. Alder lake just runs really hot.
@@fandibus I changed the wiring. It was a pre build as that was the only way to grab a RTX3070, PC is 1 yr old. It was plugged into a modex at the back which should have had it running full RPM. I plugged both into MOBO headers, only 1 started. Swapped the other fan and now both are working. Thanks for the reply though :)
Did I understand correctly that the push/pull config on the 360mm Freezer II has a reduced noise level because I can let the fans rotate to e.g. 500 instead of 700?
Great analysis. Generally I've preferred a push configuration mounted in the front. That was because I though a pull configuration was not as effective. I have done push/pull thinking, again, it had to be much more effective, but apparently it's not, so that is good to know. I do appreciate the more nuanced analysis showing how this might be different for different sized AIOs. Generally I would not recommend or would avoid a 120 AIO, but it's good to know that one in push/pull would likely be more effective. I usually stick with a 240 minimum and it's good to know that push/pull, while it might be a bit more effective with a 240 than a 360, it's only by a degree or two, easily margin of error. Thanks gain, great video. Just goes to show that evidence often confounds out speculative or logical notions.
I have an i7-12700k @ 4.8GHz / 1.18v on the core. I run push pull up top with an H100i elite capellix and I don't get above 70 Deg C in Cinebench R23 stress test. Room ambient temp is 68F / 20C. I may at some point go to a 280 up top (would need low-profile RAM) to get even more surface area, also in push-pull. I do wish though, I could convert my RTX 3080 Ti STRIX to a hybrid GPU. This way I could really work on lowering the GPU temps and get some more boost out of the GPU.
My custom water cooling push-pull is cooler by 10c, was expecting about 5c cooler. My rad needs a lot of pressure, its got a lot of small fins and is thicker than normal rads. Maybe this helps move air better through the rad. What is ignored here is the fan types. People state a different fan type for the push or pull side. One type of fan that is for air flow on one side and one for high static pressure on the other.
You're using a radiator designed to optimize a 1 way fan setup. There's a reason fat cpu Air coolers make a huge difference with push/pull. A more interesting video would be testing push/pull liquid cooler radiators at average (the one used here) thickness, then incrementally increasing only radiator thickness. Then discuss/compare results. This data would be much more useful.
So I'll buy a thermalright aio with fans but the rest of my case will be the artic p12 so should I just remove the thermalright ones or should I just mount them on the top
I have a Thermaltake Core P1, so the push pull configuration helps exhaust more warm air from the compartment containing my HDD, which becomes quite hot. I'm also tired of listening to my PC ramp up to run process hogging background apps while idle. Asus' Armoury Crate constantly throttles my system, and it's annoying hearing the fans spin while listening to quiet music at night.
Pulling cool air from the top through the radiator just seem logical and push the hot air out of the from and or back. Case maker put the smallest fans in the back for some stupid reason so that will always be limited
Is a Push Pull config compatible with Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 for 360mm and 420mm in a Fractal Torrent Case up front(intake) while the tubing is on the bottom? I need an official confirmation on this info! I need my AIO to last long and be efficient! even if running at low RPMs since im planning to get the 420mm rads Disclaimer: The Fractal Torrent case does not have any headroom for AIOs at top mount only at front and the bottom which people commonly wouldn't even recommend putting AIOs at the button so the only option i have is the front as an intake. CPU: Ryzen 5 5600x GPU: XFX RX580 8GB GTS XXX CASE: Fractal Torrent System Fans: Arctic (140mm) P14 x7 + 3 for Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 420mm I'm worried that the included screws might be not long enough to fit a push&pull config on a 420mm rad in a fractal torrent case up front.
Here's a curveball that I'm looking for someone to answer. I have a 280mm AIO in the front of my case for my CPU and also just got a 3080ti LC that is 240 MM. I can only fit the GPU radiator on the top of my case therefore it is in exhaust and I feel like due to the 280 rad in the front, the case and GPU radiator is not getting enough cool air. So in this kind of scenario, would a push/pull on the front 280mm rad bring more cool air into the case and therefore keep the GPU rad cooler because of it? Or is it just a waste of money? Thanks!
You can't just subtract the difference in ambient temperature to correct for it. Test it yourself, a 5 degree rise in ambient can product say 7 degree higher cpu temps. In your graph you'd subtract 5 degrees instead of subtracting 7 degrees.
wouldn't the fans spin slower with the push pull if you just left the fan speeds on the same configuration as the push? so, if you turn up the fan speed on the push pull to match then it should gain better tempts although be at a louder db level.
@@itsyoboig3325 Does not really matter. Front = gets cool and fresah air. Top = gets warmer "used" air from the other components. Id put it on top to make the GPU as cool as possible, as Im a gamer and my GPU is more important.
@@itsyoboig3325 Yeah, I actually have a watercooled GPU with that AIO in the front. Its only after hours of gaming the GPU AIO starts to affect the CPU AIO. We are talking a few degrees so its nothing to worry about really. But you you mainly game, put the CPU AIO on top as exhaust
The more effective use for the space would certainly be simply a thicker radiator. You might consider push pull if you have already exhausted the option of upgrading the size of your Aio for maybe an i9 139000k as those are known to actually be thermally performance limited as they suck alot of Watts and have generous OC capabilities even beyond that. Maybe you would want the improved airflow with a front mounted configuration, or you might want more RGB possibilites on both sides of the Radiator. I recommend using the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 420mm AiO, as it has been proven to be the most capable Aio water cooler out there and comes at a fair price. Also the Arctic P14 ARGB are great value just the same and perform excellently as both Radiator fans and for case air flow purposes also, making them perfectly suitable for a push-pull configuration.
Well i have this thing on my r5 3600. Mostly because of noice. Fans are running at 350ish rpm until 60°C, so i can idle it as quiet as possible. If you buy something with a radiator, might aswell be the biggest that fits. Especially because the II 360 costs less than other 240s while being a lot better.
Nice video . The only Thing i see is the cooling radiator mountet with the hozes high endstead of low . Its actually a Thing how u mount the radiator. Fittings should be Down not up. Check varius vids on UA-cam. Talking about the small clip with the corsair Cooler :)
Hose mounts can be up or down, that doesn't really matter. What matters is what the highest point in the cooling system is. If your CPU is lower than the mounts on the radiator (if they're on top) then you're all good. Air stays at the top of a liquid, and almost no AIO pump is strong enough to suck that air into the pump
Never have the hoses at the top of a vertically mounted AIO cooler. Those systems have air in them, and you want to be sure the air is at the top of the radiator, and not being pulled towards the pump. It can have a catastrophic effect on cooling, depending on the cooler.
No, this is an absolute fallacy. When you vertically mount your AIO, hopefully it's a 360. If it's a 280 for instance you want to mount it high. But I digress. If you mount a 360 RAD vertically and the hoses run to the top of the RAD, IF the pump is located at the CPU/Cold Plate at not like the very few that have the pump in the hose or the RAD even, but in the cold plate/CPU, you are absolutely fine. The highest point is still the top of the radiator, NOT the pump. I cannot think of any motherboard where the CPU socket. hence the pump would be as high or higher than the top of the radiator. Thats what counts. It's not whether you run the tubes down low or up top, just be sure the pump is definitely NOT the highest point. The top of the RAD should be the highest point and the air bubbles would collect there.
tghere is NO SUCH THING as a ambient corrected char. 20c cools better then 25c you cannt just takes them temp and sibstract ambient and call it a day. it does not work that way. in summer my room temp is 10c higher as in winter but my cpu temps is 24c hotter! Hot air cools worse. sop for every degree the ambient goes up you lose more then 1 degree of cooling capacity.
I also bought the liquid freezer II 360 AiO and unfortunately I cant fit it in a top mount push configuration because there is not enough clearance to the Motherboard on my Corsair 5000D Airflow Case. I need to place the fans above the top panel in a pull configuration so it's nice to know that it doesn't effect my cooling performance by much. It's still a bit sad that I cant see the rgb fans inside the case 😔
I have the artic 360 also. I couldn’t top mount it because the fan was hitting the mother board power cable. I ordered the slim low profile artic fan for 8$ and it’s just fine. I see no difference in the heat at all. CPU runs 51c on my star citizen all day.
@@Loady420 I have bought same case and I have mounted arctic 360 on Corsair 5000d, I scratched my head like yourself but if you notice the top of the case you can offset and screw the radiator on side only and use mini cable ties to fasten the other side, enough clearance for motherboard. Let me know if you need a picture to see it.
I have bought same case and I have mounted arctic 360 on Corsair 5000d, I scratched my head like yourself but if you notice the top of the case you can offset and screw the radiator on side only and use mini cable ties to fasten the other side, enough clearance for motherboard. Let me know if you need a picture to see it.
Fans should be 100%. Methodology should include varying thicknesses of radiators. Noise should not be considered as it is irrelevant to performance as it is like considering the noise a car makes when running 1/4 mile.
The reason I run push pull on my rad is because I have it set as part of the case's intake and the extra airflow from the fans means more air for my other components
And.... I was rushing to the comments to reeeeeeee about the thermal mass in the THICC radiator... you got me bud
In some cases a push/pull works extremely well. For example as an intake from the front.
my push/pull setup improved temps by 5c lowered, not huge, but its something
What size aio
If it’s 100 to 95… that is a big dif
Yea I did push pull on my previous build and noticed that mine usually stayed 3-4 degrees C cooler. It never got overheated with the with just the push method. But I had two extra fans lying around and just wanted to try it. And it stayed cooler, run after run.
5c is a lot. it's the difference between 100c throttle and 95c just fine temps
@@MsFearcoyes, but if you are running at 95-100 C, you have bigger problems with your set up than a few extra fans
I just bought a Corsair AIO and surprisingly enough it came with 24 of the long standoff screws, meaning I could mount my old fans onto the other side of the radiator for a nice 6 fan push / pull on the intake. I've never seen cpu temps this low in my life lol.
Keep up the good work! 👏
I switched my 280mm AIO from front mount pull to top mount pull, temps are about the same and I was able to fit a larger GPU in my system. Win win.
I theorized that you need static pressure fans to push air through the radiator, and high airflow fans to pull air from the radiator. I am guessing this is the best configuration you can have. Also, having an aggressive fan curve keep your CPU cool in the long run as the heat rises, the fan velocity also reacts and push heat air faster. The faster you get rid of heat, the faster your fans would need to comeback to mean. What is limiting heat dissipation practice these days are putting sound levels limitations. "They don't want noise" If you are willing to accommodate momentary fan noise for 1 to 5 seconds, you won't need to deal with it for a longer time.
Im planning to Add 2 Push fan on my front 240mm rads (custom-loop set up of 360mm+240mm for CPU).
But i will use Same exact Static Fans, PULL fan will be 15% higher RPM than PUSH fan since its located at the front Mesh To Create a Negative Air flow at the front ... Pull fans inside the case pulls air more efficiently while reducing noise since its Front Case Fan for Push Fan (obviously Push fan will get more restriction in a pull push config instead of push fan, push fan will help pull fan and higher pull fan RPM will be useless due to restriction of the fins will only increase noise while for nuetral same RPM push+pull will same effect push fan will is still restricted than pull so lowering push fan rpm will not really affect performance in terms of air going out of the rad but will greatly reduce noise).
Just like this vid temp difference is within margin of error 2 degree's same w/ other test i watch ..
I'm only doing so that front intake will get a lil bit boost of airflow going inside the case (rads reduces airflow after air passing through) its for the manually OC Samsung B-die RAM to increase cooling which is why i'm only uses 240mm rad+ 120mm w/o rad "3x120mm at the front" 1 120mm fan blows fresh air directly to the RAM to prevent error due to tight timings since samsung b-die are temp sensitive.
I hope to do the sp push fans and airflow fans as pull fans
Always mounted my aio at the front with a push/pull and always see lower temps, than mounting up top. I have two fans as intakes also under my gpu. It all really depends on your case and what you have to work with.
If I mount up top I get slightly better gpu temps, if I mount at front I get slightly better cpu temps.
I'm actually really curious about results with a smaller cooler if you tested. I have more fans than I know what to do with so I'd love to know if I'd benefit at all from ordering a second set of screws to do a push-pull config on my smaller radiator.
I installed a Corsair 360 mm AIO with the included ML120 fans and added 3 additional ML120 fans to create a push-pull situation and installed it at the top of the case. (5000D airflow)
The additional fans were not installed on the AIO radiator, but rather on the outside of the top section of the case. This was to minimize the space taken by the AIO on the inside of the case to allow clearance for the dominator DDR5 modules which are pretty tall.
Measuring the temps with the original 3 fan set up vs. the push pull set up, I noticed a 4 degree drop in temps across the idle-full load spectrum. All settings were left to "auto" to allow the system to do it's thing. Using a 12900-K i9, the idle temps were around 52 degrees in normal and47.4 with the push-pull. The CPU never surpassed 83 degrees with the push-pull and 89 degrees in normal installation. I'm using 3 ML fans in the front, 3 ML fans on the side, 6ML fans push-pull on the AIO (which also serves as exhaust) 2 ML fans on the back for exhaust and 2 SP elite fans on top of the PSU housing that blows directly into the GPU triple fans (Asus ROG Strix RTX 3080 OC white). (All white system)
The temp read out on the motherboard (MSI Force Z690) indicates a steady temp of 27 degrees at idle and 39 degrees at full load consistently. When I bring my hand close to the case, I can actually feel the cool airflow around the front and bottom edges. Using a EVGA T-2 1000 PSU to provide enough power. Using it for video/photo editing and content creation with no gaming.
My 5950X still gets pretty warm with this exact cooler on.
do you have a offset setup on it
It's good
You may not see this comment due to being a two month old video, and you are even coincidentally talking of those "rushing to the comments" at 6:14, but my concern is more about something I don't believe you mentioned. The push-pull method may not be a considerably significant benefit for CPU temps in the majority of the population's use. However, there are times where this push-pull method will actually help everything else in the PC.
I have three fans currently in the front intake of my airflow-oriented P400A. I have a fair strength CPU, 3700X and I don't even use it to it's max potential. I do use at the moment a single fan GTX1060 that only does well in my case because of the current high pressure airflow setup I have. Adding the radiator especially while changing the fans with those that came with the AIO, may suffocate the other components within the case. Such as the aforementioned GTX1060. I plan to also switch this out for a 3080. This 3080 will not only take in a lot of air, and will probably do so well with it's three fans, but it could easily heat up the other components in the PC if not the entire internal ambient temperature of the case. Push/pull method allows that lesser airflow to the case and rest of the components other than the CPU to be increased from the extra fans, whether that be to the same level as having three fans with no radiator, or even more which is the best case scenario.
Cost of extra fans is not a factor for me though, and I can definitely attest to not seeing as much of a want to do push/pull if I needed to purchase more fans for it to be an option. My case already came with three fans, and they would be unused if I were not to use push/pull.
Hopefully this is useful for anyone reading or for @TechteamGB
Thanks for the video, love seeing the data.
Hahaha! I loved the editing and humor in this video. Great work! :-D And good info! Good to know.
Rather than the hyper-details Steve gives, or extreme-overclocking and insane overkill like Jay might do (and don't get me wrong - I love those guys.) I love how you are more focused on info for the average and "casual enthusiast" users.
I think you underestimate how many people have extreme edition CPU's nowadays. My 10900k definitely needs 360mm setup. Loved the test though, it was the best one I've seen and gave me exactly what I needed.
I am hoping the Arctic Liquid Freezer ii 360 will keep my new i9 13900KF nice and cool...I hope.
@@thunkjunk For gaming it should be fine, but if using things like Cinebench etc it will rise above 95c pretty quickly and throttle the cpu, unless you delid the chip or go full watercooling, or both
@@thunkjunk It will keep it within safe operating limits at the very least. My friend has a 13900k on a older 360mm corsair cooler and hasnt had issues.
Great info and good video!! Seems like the only reason to go push pull is if you are running so hot you're in danger of losing performance from throttling, which I'm guessing is the vast minority of us?...
Not if you get the Gen 13 i9 13900KF.........muahahahaha
USing an ARCTIC LF II 280 AIO in a push-pull configuration. Agree that the reduced tempertures compared to only push or pull is small but it is present. I also do not notice the setup any more noisy then just push or pull. And they speed up for shorter periods to bring the temp down, etc. Overall, while it is not a essential mod, I am glad I added the two extra fans.
I too stuck some extra fans in my A and yelled AYE OH! Good real-world analysis, thanks for sharing.
I use an Oversteel 120mm AIO (aka an ultra cheap Amazon jobby) with a 5800X, it idles around 35 and gaming load is around 65, give or take 5....it seems to be doing the job, well....but I see that Arctic monster and for no good reason I want a new case with space for that beast!
Now throw on a row of 7 amp server fans on it and then watch in amazement as you gain a couple hundred MHz.
What you gain in CPU MHz you lose in hearing KHz.
Good tradeoff!
Push pull is superior and even his flawed logic confirms that. If you let pump and fans to slow down it’s not fair comparison like he himself noticed.
Then aside it the push pull configuration should be side mounted to utilise the air temperature outside of the case… when you pumping warm air thought the radiator it kills the purpose of having the most effective cooling.
The setups I did have run had complete radiator outside out the pc case so both sides of the radiator had a contact with colder air… You do completely ignore that the air is bounced back and pushed back trought the fans because the radioactive is restrictive to air flow, the turbulence of colder air on the radiator surface have better effect than any of those configurations you did have tested. My PC didn’t had any leds and it was old IBM BIG tower with hoses sticking out and a radiator screwed down outside, yes it was ugly but guess what? The OC was extreme on it, with the best possible configuration…
For my current setup I do have Noctua because i don’t really care for the most effective cooling possible. And it’s often better than most aios.
Get PHANTEKS D30 fans or T30 if you don't care about rgb and connectivity ease. Best fans, the T30s push 3,000RPM, and move over 100CFM.
I run a 280mm radiator and push and pull bec of my case maximum aio is 280 with 2 140 fans and in front i have 3×120 and the 2 fans are pulling on my aio and the 3 fans in front are sucking air to the aio and also my hardrives
I run a z790 and 13700k the cpu needs good cooling so that's why I went with push and pull
Love the presentation. Especially the cut to editor. NICE. And overall the video is quite useful to show how not useful the extra fans are :)
My aio didn't come with fancy RGB fans. Even though it is mounted in the top of the case as exhaust, I still did a pull config so it will be easier to clean the rad when I need to. Also since the rad is what is hanging down and can be seen through the case door I think it is a cleaner look personally.
To me it looks like adding 3 fans to the Arctic cooler is like upgrading from a 3080 to a 3090 for 1080p low gaming. Of course you won't see a real different and that's because the bottleneck isn't in the fans.
I'd guess the bottleneck is probably the pump/block.
This comment... he should have tested 120/240 aio and in smaller cases. It's night and day
@@gabrielcollazo6835 That's what a smart person would do.
Love this review. You exactly provided a solid answer to what Gamers Nexus brought up in his EKWB AIO Elite review regarding Push-pull fans being needed use case in non EKWB AIO setups but he never went back to that point in his review. You did. So now I understand that due to the large massive 360 Radiator of the ARTIC as well as the EKWB ELITE, those thicker rads already provides the necessary benefit for reducing heat from the rad with just one sided set of fans versus a thinner 360mm, or smaller sized 240/120mm radiator.
You helped me figure out how I am going to tackle my current 360mm AIO's inefficiency. See, I'm one of those crazy users that use a AIO on to cool a Ryzen Threadripper and thus I deal with the other end of this matter which is not having enough cooling. My rad being a MSI MAG CoreLiquid, it's radiator is much thinner than these from ARTIC and EKWB, so I think that radiator would best benefit from additional fans added for a push / pull setup.
push/pull setup has a bigger cooling effect when using thinner radiators
Yeah my 240 benefits quite a bit with 4x120 rather than 2. Especially during extended gaming
great video. although I think given the extra thickness of the arctic radiator, the extra fans just make it insane, and even harder to find a case to fit it in. I think the more interesting/realistic scenario would be to see if you were to replace those low rpm/cfm fans that come with it, with something close to what you get on the EVGA CLC units. sure they're louder, but if you want to eek out all the thermal performance you can, then it would be interesting to see how much thermal improvement that buys you. I think linus or someone on youtube reviewed the corsair h80i v2 a few years ago, which not only came with a thicker radiator, but also dual fans. he tested that h80 with one fan, against a corsair unit with a thinner radiator that he put the h80 fans onto. the h80 with one fan outperformed the other unit with two fans.
nice one, Extra fans do indeed look to be redundant. Great to know!
Nice shout out to steve and his ocd. Love the work he does but also like the reasonable logic.
7950X + ALF ||| 360 + Titan X + 16x Phanteks T30 Server desktop case.
(I’m that one guy xD)
I just bought that Aio, and 3 Phanteks T30 to improve the cooling, hoping to keep the noise even lower.
I have done this exact test, and I found that the temperature difference between push and pull is negligible. The difference between push and push/pull was within tolerance, so basically nothing.
I have push/pull on my front rad that is intake, but only because I wanted the RGB to be visible from both the inside and the outside, otherwise push/pull makes at most one or two C of difference, not enough to bother with unless you are trying for overclocking records or something of that nature. Anyone who claims a higher difference with push/pull, I would love to see your literature and measurements because I don't believe you. Maybe (just MAYBE) on a thick rad you might see a difference.
All these test comes from the fantansy, the key as mentioned in video is given by the surface contac area between processor and pump
I love tech and tech videos.... this video had me catatonic almost from the start.
Going to be going with a push/pull 360 in the front of almost the same case as you (enthoo m pro, same case different front plate, better airflow) from a dual 120mm tower cooler. Upgraded to a 3080ti and it’s choking my cpu pretty bad right now.
i run a push pull set up and noticed 10 degree difference.
exactly the info what i was looking for.! thanks
This was awesome - Thank you! I have always done push pull setups on my 360 aios and was looking at a new case that did not have room for 6 fans - Nice to know I don't have much to worry about.
I am very sad i chose the AIO Artic Liquid Freezer II 240 mn for my 13700K, the cpu reaches 110C at 250watts. Will the 360mm be enough for my cpu?
the 13xxx series processors are hot, I have i9 13900k with AIO Corsair H150I LCD XT 360mm and when I tested it in cinebench it passes 100 degrees in some cores and in games it rises to 75 in 2k in rendering up to 90
@@cryby2608 Wow! So Ryzen cpus are cooler?
@@misterPAINMAKER Yes... Ryzen 7950x produces a max 170 Watts. The 7950X3D has a max 162 Watts.
Question when you mounted the AIO is it sucking hot air from within the case if so how does it expect it to keep your cpu cool am I missing something?
I have the same question
Lmfao 😂😂😂 if a cpu is 60-75c... do you think the temperature inside the case is that hott??? The ambient temp of the case is 30-50c.. the way radiators work as long as the temp is -10c then it will cool down. This also applies to car radiators and ac radiators
Awesome video!
More fans ≠ more better. A simple way to think of this is fan rpm is directly related to air flow through it. So 1 fan spinning at 1000rpm moves the exact same amount of air as 2 of those fans lined up with each other at 1000 rpm. The only difference is pressure. You’ll see a minor improvement since it is overcoming the friction of the radiator better, but you won’t necessarily ever be able to run the double fan set up at a lower rpm
Edit: not disagreeing with him at all, simply adding my thoughts
I have 60mm radiators and going push pull from pull allowed me to run fans at lower rpm.
@@greggreg2458 yes, simply because it’s such a thick radiator that you overcame the friction. The air speed through the radiator is identical between setups when the temps are the same
@@storms13 Also fin density matters, not only thickness. More fans can be more better, not always, sometimes fully populate the case can ruin airflow patterns. My main rig, 4 rads push pull (around 30 fans, fan curve tops out a 750rpm) is more silent than my prebuilt with 3 fans (1200rpm max) i have them both in my room and i want to chance the case so bad ahahaha
Push/pull might make a difference if your AiO doesn't have much...err... headroom. On my old system with a puny OG Corsair H60, adding a second high pressure fan and mounting the rad in the rear to suck in fresh air through the rad did make a difference (OCed i5-4670K).
On my current system, just removing the rather restrictive front-panel from my case for testing purposes (bequiet Pure Base 600) resulted in 3 - 5°C lower CPU temps under max load (OCed i5-12600K). I guess what I'm trying to say is that getting cooler air (and lots of it) onto your radiator is what you want to do - and I think the mounting spot and "ease of access to outside air" will be more important than the fan configuration. As much as I would like to top mount, I'm pretty sure that would bring CPU temps up no matter how many fans I'd use, since I'd be blowing warm air from inside the case into the rad.
I have front mounted 240 aio with a ryzen 5 5600x with the fans in a pull configuration.
thanks for the vid, thinking of doing pull up top, easier to clean
Haha, great video mate! Liking the fun in this one. Good information as well of course.
Thank's for the vid. Good to know before investing in more fans.
*What about one 360 AIO adding an extra radiator with fans??? Crazy Huhh!
I have that exact cooler on alder lake, the 12900k, and it runs hot! I can easily hit 100c and throttle when running cinebench. And at that temp the cooler is loud. I've downvolted as best I can so it no longer throttles but i'm still at 95c. So saving a couple of degrees here would be worth it to me. It's fine at idle, it's fine when gaming, but my main use case is video encoding for hours on end with the CPU maxed so I need more cooling here.
Hi, just replying as you commented recently. The fans on my Radiator are not running at all. One of them runs on boot up, but then will not kick in, was hitting 83c when playing RDR2 after 2 hours, and I don't like it (I5 10600k). Any thoughts?
@@Sum41rthe1 check the fan curve in the bios. It could be disabled. And of course check the connections. Both to the board as well as the fans on the radiator itself.
Interesting, i run 12900 @ 5.2p 4.1 e @ 1.3 with the arctic... i never throttle... check your lga 1700 mount. My chips also sp 96
@@sagerdood checked it many times. Are you running Cinebench r23 to check temps under load.
It’s a pretty common issue. Alder lake just runs really hot.
@@fandibus I changed the wiring. It was a pre build as that was the only way to grab a RTX3070, PC is 1 yr old. It was plugged into a modex at the back which should have had it running full RPM. I plugged both into MOBO headers, only 1 started. Swapped the other fan and now both are working. Thanks for the reply though :)
I run a push pull configuration on my aio and I can see and feel the difference
Good video. Might just try this :-)
hi, do you think an 240mm AIO like the Deepcool LE500 would be enough for the 5900X without any OC?
Ask chat gpt
Did I understand correctly that the push/pull config on the 360mm Freezer II has a reduced noise level because I can let the fans rotate to e.g. 500 instead of 700?
How about controlling pump speed at a constant 60-80% while controlling the fans with a nice fan curve?
Great analysis. Generally I've preferred a push configuration mounted in the front. That was because I though a pull configuration was not as effective. I have done push/pull thinking, again, it had to be much more effective, but apparently it's not, so that is good to know. I do appreciate the more nuanced analysis showing how this might be different for different sized AIOs. Generally I would not recommend or would avoid a 120 AIO, but it's good to know that one in push/pull would likely be more effective. I usually stick with a 240 minimum and it's good to know that push/pull, while it might be a bit more effective with a 240 than a 360, it's only by a degree or two, easily margin of error. Thanks gain, great video. Just goes to show that evidence often confounds out speculative or logical notions.
Hm that’s strange. I noticed a 3-4 degree difference in mine when I used push pull method. Maybe depends on fan rpm?
Thank you. Really useful.
I have an i7-12700k @ 4.8GHz / 1.18v on the core. I run push pull up top with an H100i elite capellix and I don't get above 70 Deg C in Cinebench R23 stress test. Room ambient temp is 68F / 20C. I may at some point go to a 280 up top (would need low-profile RAM) to get even more surface area, also in push-pull.
I do wish though, I could convert my RTX 3080 Ti STRIX to a hybrid GPU. This way I could really work on lowering the GPU temps and get some more boost out of the GPU.
Awesome work man!
Great vid! Do you know if there is any audible difference with Push vs Pull?
Have the same AIO and replaced the fans with Phanteks T30s. Can I use the original for the pull fans or does it have to be the same brand?
My custom water cooling push-pull is cooler by 10c, was expecting about 5c cooler. My rad needs a lot of pressure, its got a lot of small fins and is thicker than normal rads. Maybe this helps move air better through the rad. What is ignored here is the fan types. People state a different fan type for the push or pull side. One type of fan that is for air flow on one side and one for high static pressure on the other.
What rad do you have?
@@jimjames6287 Thicker 360mm rad but I am just talking about my experience. I replaced the fans which 6 cheaper cfm fans.
Agree with the front mount. It was a disaster if your long screw not long enough. Mine was disaster :(
full coverage block for a 300+ watt gpu?
You're using a radiator designed to optimize a 1 way fan setup. There's a reason fat cpu Air coolers make a huge difference with push/pull. A more interesting video would be testing push/pull liquid cooler radiators at average (the one used here) thickness, then incrementally increasing only radiator thickness. Then discuss/compare results. This data would be much more useful.
Don't all the usual AIO use the same patented equipment these days?
So I'll buy a thermalright aio with fans but the rest of my case will be the artic p12 so should I just remove the thermalright ones or should I just mount them on the top
I have a Thermaltake Core P1, so the push pull configuration helps exhaust more warm air from the compartment containing my HDD, which becomes quite hot. I'm also tired of listening to my PC ramp up to run process hogging background apps while idle. Asus' Armoury Crate constantly throttles my system, and it's annoying hearing the fans spin while listening to quiet music at night.
01:36 - 170 amps EDC, bro tryna light a fire
Thanks for the really informative video. May I know what case is that?
I can't connect my CPU because of the triple rad. All I needed to know is if having only 2 fans and not 3 will be bad. Just a yea or no 😒
In short, more funs is a waste of money 😂
How did you make these graphs?
Pulling cool air from the top through the radiator just seem logical and push the hot air out of the from and or back. Case maker put the smallest fans in the back for some stupid reason so that will always be limited
Is a Push Pull config compatible with Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 for 360mm and 420mm in a Fractal Torrent Case up front(intake) while the tubing is on the bottom? I need an official confirmation on this info! I need my AIO to last long and be efficient! even if running at low RPMs since im planning to get the 420mm rads
Disclaimer: The Fractal Torrent case does not have any headroom for AIOs at top mount only at front and the bottom which people commonly wouldn't even recommend putting AIOs at the button so the only option i have is the front as an intake.
CPU: Ryzen 5 5600x
GPU: XFX RX580 8GB GTS XXX
CASE: Fractal Torrent
System Fans: Arctic (140mm) P14 x7 + 3 for Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 420mm
I'm worried that the included screws might be not long enough to fit a push&pull config on a 420mm rad in a fractal torrent case up front.
Here's a curveball that I'm looking for someone to answer. I have a 280mm AIO in the front of my case for my CPU and also just got a 3080ti LC that is 240 MM. I can only fit the GPU radiator on the top of my case therefore it is in exhaust and I feel like due to the 280 rad in the front, the case and GPU radiator is not getting enough cool air.
So in this kind of scenario, would a push/pull on the front 280mm rad bring more cool air into the case and therefore keep the GPU rad cooler because of it? Or is it just a waste of money? Thanks!
You can't just subtract the difference in ambient temperature to correct for it. Test it yourself, a 5 degree rise in ambient can product say 7 degree higher cpu temps. In your graph you'd subtract 5 degrees instead of subtracting 7 degrees.
Any chance of similar with a zen 2 threadripper 🙂🙂
No offense but you should've installed a small exhaust in your build like a 80mm
why you speak like Walter White junior
Open ne noor!
lol just ordered arctic lf2 280 for my ryzen 5600x :D tho im about to swap the stone for something like 5800x3d at some point so im ready =)
Push+pull becos I use the rads as intake and a massive over pressure. Special case that relies on over pressure.
Cinebench23 at just above 50° for over 30 minutes? How ja that possible? I have an 7950x3D and NZXT elite 360 and it will run for sure above 80°
I think that is with ambient removed from the temp.
you can achieve the same results as push only with push pull but quieter
big fan got me fucked up ong
I think push pull works best in a scenario with 12th gen intel where you need every fan you can get too keep them cool lol 😂
wouldn't the fans spin slower with the push pull if you just left the fan speeds on the same configuration as the push? so, if you turn up the fan speed on the push pull to match then it should gain better tempts although be at a louder db level.
how was you able to mount another set of fans on the other side of the rad?
With screws.
@@bobbymoss6160 😂
push/pull
Doesn't the gpu benefit from having the radiator at the top?
But then the CPU radiator get warmer air and thus does not cool as good
@@fjalls so should I have my AIO on top or the front ?
@@itsyoboig3325 Does not really matter. Front = gets cool and fresah air. Top = gets warmer "used" air from the other components. Id put it on top to make the GPU as cool as possible, as Im a gamer and my GPU is more important.
@@fjalls so u have yours on top ?
@@itsyoboig3325 Yeah, I actually have a watercooled GPU with that AIO in the front. Its only after hours of gaming the GPU AIO starts to affect the CPU AIO. We are talking a few degrees so its nothing to worry about really. But you you mainly game, put the CPU AIO on top as exhaust
The more effective use for the space would certainly be simply a thicker radiator.
You might consider push pull if you have already exhausted the option of upgrading the size of your Aio for maybe an i9 139000k as those are known to actually be thermally performance limited as they suck alot of Watts and have generous OC capabilities even beyond that.
Maybe you would want the improved airflow with a front mounted configuration, or you might want more RGB possibilites on both sides of the Radiator.
I recommend using the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 420mm AiO, as it has been proven to be the most capable Aio water cooler out there and comes at a fair price.
Also the Arctic P14 ARGB are great value just the same and perform excellently as both Radiator fans and for case air flow purposes also, making them perfectly suitable for a push-pull configuration.
Well i have this thing on my r5 3600. Mostly because of noice. Fans are running at 350ish rpm until 60°C, so i can idle it as quiet as possible. If you buy something with a radiator, might aswell be the biggest that fits. Especially because the II 360 costs less than other 240s while being a lot better.
Nice video . The only Thing i see is the cooling radiator mountet with the hozes high endstead of low . Its actually a Thing how u mount the radiator. Fittings should be Down not up. Check varius vids on UA-cam. Talking about the small clip with the corsair Cooler :)
Hose mounts can be up or down, that doesn't really matter. What matters is what the highest point in the cooling system is. If your CPU is lower than the mounts on the radiator (if they're on top) then you're all good. Air stays at the top of a liquid, and almost no AIO pump is strong enough to suck that air into the pump
Cant watch entire video, after hearing “more better” several times. 🤦🏻♂️
Never have the hoses at the top of a vertically mounted AIO cooler. Those systems have air in them, and you want to be sure the air is at the top of the radiator, and not being pulled towards the pump. It can have a catastrophic effect on cooling, depending on the cooler.
Having them at the top is fine, as long as your pump/CPU is lower than the hose mounts on the radiator.
No, this is an absolute fallacy. When you vertically mount your AIO, hopefully it's a 360. If it's a 280 for instance you want to mount it high. But I digress.
If you mount a 360 RAD vertically and the hoses run to the top of the RAD, IF the pump is located at the CPU/Cold Plate at not like the very few that have the pump in the hose or the RAD even, but in the cold plate/CPU, you are absolutely fine. The highest point is still the top of the radiator, NOT the pump. I cannot think of any motherboard where the CPU socket. hence the pump would be as high or higher than the top of the radiator. Thats what counts. It's not whether you run the tubes down low or up top, just be sure the pump is definitely NOT the highest point. The top of the RAD should be the highest point and the air bubbles would collect there.
tghere is NO SUCH THING as a ambient corrected char. 20c cools better then 25c you cannt just takes them temp and sibstract ambient and call it a day. it does not work that way. in summer my room temp is 10c higher as in winter but my cpu temps is 24c hotter! Hot air cools worse. sop for every degree the ambient goes up you lose more then 1 degree of cooling capacity.
I also bought the liquid freezer II 360 AiO and unfortunately I cant fit it in a top mount push configuration because there is not enough clearance to the Motherboard on my Corsair 5000D Airflow Case. I need to place the fans above the top panel in a pull configuration so it's nice to know that it doesn't effect my cooling performance by much. It's still a bit sad that I cant see the rgb fans inside the case 😔
Why not use one of the 2 front spaces?
I have the artic 360 also. I couldn’t top mount it because the fan was hitting the mother board power cable. I ordered the slim low profile artic fan for 8$ and it’s just fine. I see no difference in the heat at all. CPU runs 51c on my star citizen all day.
@@Loady420 I have bought same case and I have mounted arctic 360 on Corsair 5000d, I scratched my head like yourself but if you notice the top of the case you can offset and screw the radiator on side only and use mini cable ties to fasten the other side, enough clearance for motherboard. Let me know if you need a picture to see it.
I have bought same case and I have mounted arctic 360 on Corsair 5000d, I scratched my head like yourself but if you notice the top of the case you can offset and screw the radiator on side only and use mini cable ties to fasten the other side, enough clearance for motherboard. Let me know if you need a picture to see it.
@@UFPANZER2 Hi could you provide a picture? I would like to see how you did it.
What kind of graph is this. You don't even write what is on x axis and y axis. How can people with little knowledge understand the graph.
But... It was what I installed in my gaming PC 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Fans should be 100%. Methodology should include varying thicknesses of radiators. Noise should not be considered as it is irrelevant to performance as it is like considering the noise a car makes when running 1/4 mile.
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