Tubeless Made Easy! | How To Set Up Tubeless Road Tyres
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- Опубліковано 21 жов 2024
- Tubeless tyres are a bit like Marmite - you either love them or you hate them. Alex is a big fan of tubeless, and wants to help change it's reputation of being a messy, complicated system! In this video, Alex shows you how to easily set up your tubeless road tyres!
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Do you ride tubeless tyres on your road bike?
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Do you ride tubeless tyres on your road bike?
🤔
Hell yeah... Mavic yksions, hutchinson storm, michelin power road tlr, and next would be the pirelli p zero race tlr
Yup. Let my wheel builder talk me into it.
Now I wish I could convert my old wheels to tubeless as well, but that's not a good idea..
Nope, very happy with the Schwalbe Aerothans. Super light and fast tubes, and I haven't had a puncture in months 👍🏽
No, I learnt what to carry and how to act when I get a puncture with the tubular. What we gonna do if this tubeless gets flat... horror
My trick and tip was that I asked my LBS to set up my tires tubeless when I took the bike in for a service. I found it a real easy process :-)
I did this, then realized it was a ticking timebomb if I couldn't get the tire on and off to fix a flat.
@@yumyumhungryYou can use a tire plug instead of taking the tire off.
@@yumyumhungry I carry a set of Stans Darts to plug any holes, and figure that if I can't fix it with those then I'm just going to have to fit a tube at the roadside. That I can do as its what I'm used to doing before making the switch to tubeless... Plus anything that can't really be fixed with a Dart is probably curtains for the tire following the bodge to get home and so I'm then going back to the shop to buy a new tire - and while I'm there....
@@yumyumhungry I know I can get a tubeless tyre on and off, it's just nice if your LBS recognise it and are happy to troubleshoot any problems for little or no charge.
That's what I am planning on doing. I'm taking mine to my LBS to upgrade the groupset and I've been running tubes in tubless-ready wheels for ages now. Might as well get a new set of GP5000's and have them set the whole thing up right. I'll have them save the tubes for emergency use.
I put the tyre on fully, pump it up to seat the bead fully then insert the sealant by removing the valve core. Its much less messy than pouring the sealant in then seating the bead.
Exactly this. Get a 60ml syringe with a basic plastic tube which fits over (or in) the valve. Never make a mess again. Reinstall valve core, pump up and Bob's your uncle.
Exactly what came to my mind. "Or, you can set the tire, remove the valve core, and inject the sealant."
I do this also. Not only it less messy, but it is also a good idea to seat the tire without sealant anyway. You make sure that the tire and the rim are compatible, you seat the tire without sealant in the way (it does not get where it should not be or not needed). And if something goes wrong, you can remove the tire without any mess.
Exactly this again. I think the thing to know is that the tyre should seat and stay reasonably inflated WITHOUT the sealant. Certainly in my experience you need to remove core and use pump with tank to seat. But do it first without sealant to save mess if it doesn't seat. If it doesn't fit an inner tube and wait 24 hours. Then you can be reasonably confident that you can add sealant, and it will seat and inflate without mess. If it isn't going to seat or if something else is leaking (like the rim tape) then you're just going to get sealant everywhere.
@@JanTrenson Exactly!
I did my first ever tubeless setup today with success! Removing my old tyres, old rim tape and applying new rim tape took most of the time and effort really. Inflating the tubeless tyres with my regular Joe Blow floor pump went like inflating any regular tyre!
I was prepared for the worst though: I went into my bathroom, undressed, put the tyre behind the glass of my walk-in shower and inflated it from there in case it would blow. 😁 I was almost disappointed it wasn't more eventful... apart from the 'naked guy in bathroom inflating tyres as if it were bombs' part, but no one was watching as far as I know 😂
So funny....
classic
Thanks for sharing
Haha, I spent a hour trying to get the old tubeless tires off the rims so I could mount the new ones . What a pain!! All said and done I still prefer inner tubes .
When using Conti's in particular I always mount one ahead of time on a spare rim with a normal inner tube. Inflate to 100 PSI and store for future. When your ready for the new one, you now have a "pre-stretched" and round (not folded up) tire ready to mount relatively easily. For the ultimate install comfort, place the tire in the clothes dryer for 5 minutes immediately before install. Now you are installing a 1. pre-stretched, 2. perfectly round, 3. warm pliable tire. Easy Peezy Lemon Squeezy!
Does the spare rim need to be tubeless ready (will it damage the bead if it isn't)?
@@playandteach No it does not. You will not be putting enough force( at 100 psi) to remotely damage any tire bead. Any clincher rim will do just fine! Thanks for asking and many happy installations for you in the future! Let me know how it goes.......
Continentals tubeless tires are some of the easiest to put on in my experience. Try Schwalbe if you want real challenge. Contis have very slick inside surface which makes it much easier to slip on.
The Faffing! It Burns!
Just finished swapping out a tubeless tire for the first time. Nowhere near as bad as I was expecting. Quite simple in the end. I only used my regular foot pump. No levers. Just following your video Alex. I did have one little blip. I had the old tire off and the new tire on and pumped up in about 5 minutes, but while it was holding air, I could see one little section that didn't want to seat properly and my foot pump wouldn't budge it. I jumped onto one of Simon's videos and he suggested using some soapy water. So, I let some air out... applied soapy water to the stubborn area... started pumping... and pop! In there! Having done it once, and now knowing the steps and tricks, I'm sure I could get the tire change down to a couple of minutes. Thanks for the video!
My experience. Even the last two years have seen vast improvements in tyres and rims. I now run Zipp 303 Firecrest discs, the new wide rim version, and Schwalbe One 30mm tyres. Easy to mount tyres, they pop into place with just a normal track pump and hold air better than previous inner tube setups. I'd also recommend Milkit valves. They allow you to extract sealant with the supplied syringe to measure amounts, then just top back up and squirt back in, all through the valve (core removed). On the road, I had countless punctures, none of which have resulted in a flat. A quick blast of CO2 and I'm off again.
perfect timing I just ordered my first set of tubeless road tires!
buy a compressor . a big one. the airshot pre loaded things are crap. the soapy water trick doesn't work on super tight tubeless road tyre beads. buy lots of tyre levers. you're gonna snap plenty. the metal ones by park tool are great but they need so much force to get some tyres on they dent the rim. it was fun until I need to change one. then I went back to tyres and tubes.
I have been running tubeless for quite awhile, road 35mm tyres and 2.1's on another bike. In all the years I've had tubeless, a regular old pump has never worked, not once. I've tried all the tricks then gave up and got a booster for my pump, that's done the job.
If you’re interested in running tubeless in London my experience hasn’t been great. After six months the glass and debris all over the streets have shredded my continental gp 5000s. I’ve tried plugging the holes with tubeless repair rubber but high pressure road tyres make it harder to repair than mountain bike tubeless. I’ve ended up with a bunch of slow punctures so I need to pump up the tyre basically every other day. I used to have gatorskins with inner tubes and never got punctures
I like to spray a little soapy water along the bead to make mounting just a little bit easier. I give them another spray after inflation to see if there are any leaks along the bead.
handy that when you have to put a tube in roadside. as they don't always seal. and can't always be plugged.
"Push the tires on with your thumbs". Man's never seated tubeless GP5000's before, has he.
Depends perhaps on your rim. I’ve done tubeless GP5000’s on my ROVAL rims with my thumbs. Also on a HED rim. Technique of finishing the bead seating at the valve core area allows the beads to set deeper in the rim valley giving more clearance over the rim.
Finishing the bead seat opposite the valve and the valve will hinder the tire beads not allowing them deeper into the rim valley and more resistance
50€ for the person who mounts gp5000 TL on Mavic cosmic pro Carbon only using (two) hands
@@pellme 1000€ for the person who mounts GP5000 on my Enve 7.8 using only using five hands
leave it in the sun or the oven trick. good luck!
@@ragethomas I want to put mine in the oven on broil and start a new hobby.
This video wasnt meant to change the minds of bikers who still use tubes... We all know tubeless RULES. This was instead to tease us with that TopPeak valve shenanigan thingy!!
Good show!
GP5000TLs (32mm) on DT470 rims no issues over weekend all done with hands and no tyre levers. Surprised how easy it was. Guess some rim/tyre combinations must be a lot easier then others. Took around 10 mins per tyre. Basic track pump sealed tyre rims and sealant put in through valve cores. Minor weep around one of the valves which was resolved by tightening locknut bit more by hand. After overnight check that pressure holding had first ride today. Super comfortable ride 70/75psi and whilst it might be psychological they seemed to roll faster with less effort. Let’s see how it goes.
Admittedly I don’t run tubeless so I’ve never tried it but I would be absolutely amazed if it really was that easy as shown here.
it's not. I've snapped every set of plastic tyre levers on the market just trying to get the tyre on the rim. then they are so tight the track pump can't even budge them . large compressor needed. the soapy water thing they do on mob tyres doesn't work on super tight road tubeless. if you have to get a tube in roadside it's phone the broom wagon time. impossible to get off .
This 100% - I've struggled like hell today with a track pump. Snapped 2 tyre leavers, had to go to halfords to buy more. Got the tyre over the rim... eventually. Would it seat? Would it heck. Now waiting for a tank pump to arrive. Total cost of unsuccessful tubeless so far = about the cost of 15 inner tubes + 3 hous. Worth it? Defo not.
I challenge Alex to fit 32mm GP5000 TL onto Bontrager Aeolus Pro 3 and make a video about how easy it is. The offer is there...
Thats the set up I am after. Are the Bontragers no good?
@@JFomo I've had absolutely no luck with my aura 5 tlr wheels, tubless tires and all I just can't get it to work. I have absolutely no problems with my mtb getting tubless
Same issues! Gp5000 are absolute bitches!
I have had better luck fitting non tubless tires onto non tubless rims
Just switched over one of my MTB tyres to tubeless, my first time doing this. As others have said I found it easy enough to seat the tyre first using a small CO2 cannister (wouldn't work with a pump) then deflate it, remove valve core, add sealant and then reinflate with pump. The only slight headache with this method is keeping the wheel off the floor whilst you add the sealant and reinflate..... though it may have made sense to put the wheel back on the bike whilst inflated following seating it, then added the sealant at that stage. The sealant seems to have repaired the small hole in the tyre that I couldn't see following the puncture (but which the sealant highlighted when it came out a bit), will be interesting to compare how this performs against the inner tube with added puncture protection strip in the front wheel!
One trick I find useful is to fit tyre on fully without sealant solution. Inflate fully to allow the beads to snap into place. Then deflate, remove valve core, use a syringe to apply correct amount of sealant through the valve and then re inflate.
Recently did four wheels with this method and no mess at all.
That's how I do it as well
you've been lucky with the rim tyre combination selected. I've tried Hunt wheels with Schwalbe and it's so hard to get the bead on the rim I snapped all my plastic levers then bought big metal park one and the force needed to get the tyre on the rim dented the rim. roadside repairs impossible.
@@barmouthbridge8772 think it depends... I have Hunt Aero Road (alloy) and Schwalbe One's went on with my thumbs and inflated without a charge canister
I’ve also seen demonstrations of the tyre fitted ‘dry’ and the sealant added through the valve (obviously with the core removed). This seems to be a ‘cleaner’ way to do it but are there any downsides to doing it this way?
No downsides - but removing the valve core is just another step in the process. Alex was keen to show the most straightforward way possible - even if it is a tiny bit messier.
After going through 3 GP5000 tyres due to cuts and typically 2 punctures a month I’m done with tubes. I’ve just ordered a tubeless set up
My next project for my road bike 🚴🏿♀️
Fancy new bike has tubeless tires -- duh, didn't realize this (in part because store salesperson tried to sell me a tube as an add-on). Probably didn't help things by overinflating. After several smooth endurance rides and near the end of a 50km jaunt, pop -- gash in tire deflated it quite quickly. When I separated the tire from the rim I finally realized I was dealing with tubeless. Fortunately not far from home so I got my son to pick me up -- off to the bike shop for a replacement. (Since I needed a new tire, might as well let the shop install it!) Not sure how I'll handle future problems as tubeless installation certainly is more challenging than the tube option.). I suspect there were a number of slow leaks that would have caused problems before the failure -- but the jury is still out on the relative convenience/value of tubeless.
Hmmm, I’ve never seen Shimano wheels before on GCN - did GCN just leak a new wheel set 6 days ahead of Shimano’s 100th Anniversary product launch, or is Shimano GCN’S new wheel sponsor?
Oh Alex, Alex. I'd love you to pop round and do my Pro One TLE's onto my Hollowgram 35's. Two hours to get the first one on and then needed a tube to seat the other one and gently peel one side off, remove tube and then managed to get that side to seat. The above was all the tricks, warm tyres, tubes, lubricant, even Scwalbes Easy fit fluid, band around the outside and all with a compressor.... Great tyres and roll lovely but an absolute pig to fit. Before anyone says not all rims and tyres are compatible, the orignal Pro Ones went on just as Alex demonstrated but without putting sealant into the tyre, missus hates sealant on the kitchen floor
I've gone tubeless on my gravel bike where those lower pressures really are worth while, but honestly, the faff and mess of topping up sealant (valves always get clogged up, you've no real idea how much is still in there) and just getting the tyre over the rim (destroyed a new £65 tyre once during fitting), means I've zero plans on doing it for road. 28mm tubed tyres give ample comfort and unless you're at peak fitness looking to squeeze out every last watt, you're not going to notice that rolling resistance difference.
My setup is Zipp 404 hookless rims with Pirelli P-Zero tires. To seat the tire on the rim I have to remove the stem core and use a high-pressure canister to burst air, then I insert the stem core and fill the air with a floor pump. Way more maintenance effort with tubeless compared to tube setups, so be prepared.
Cheers for the video! im about to give this a go
At this point, “Alex The Tubeless”, EASILY earned his nickname. 3rd video in a week? And always the same message. I don’t hate on tubeless, but rather on the way it is presented in these videos. C’mon.
Top Tip!!!! Use MilKit Valves and the Milkit tubeless kit. No more messing around with the sealant. Easy to check the amount left in the tires and easy to replace old sealant. Perhaps you guys could do a video about them.
Good video but missing two key points:
1: carry an inner tube with you so that in the worst case you can fix a puncture that won't seal - NB: never happened to me so far in 5 years
2: Winter job - remove the tyre and clear out all the old sealant and then refit as described for the year ahead - 15 minute job
when removing the old sealant it helps to do it under warm running water using an old cloth you don't care about
*is the tire sealant heavier in weight or create more rolling resistance than inner tube?*
Sealant is lighter than a standard tube. Although it can become heavier if you don't clean out the tire occasionally and continously add more sealant.
Tubless are not easy just because GCN alone made like a dozen of videos of how-to set them up.... Yes, I tried it, even tried to convince myself road tubeless are better... but they are not. Too much mess. Changing a tyre takes 10x more time than with normal innertube. And benefits are marginal, if any at all. No weight gain because heavier tyre+sealant+valve weigh even more than tyre+innertube. Comfort and rolling resistance improvement? I really tried hard to notice it. And there is barely any. If not concentrating on it, could not feel the difference at all. But it definitely feels heavier. Just not worth it.
Had 2 punctures on 2 different tubeless tyres - none of them sealed properly! Even after adding lots of sealant - tiny holes, but they just didn't seal!!! (tried 2 different brands of sealent) Headache for many days, instead of changing an innertube in 5 minutes.
Don't forget that you have to change the sealant every 6 months or so and some sealants you can't use CO2 to re-inflate.
That was my initial thought when I went TL on my CX, and then on my MTB.
Swapping a tubeless tire doesn't take much more time when you've done it a few times.
You actually save a few grams on TL to inner tubes, unless you run super light weight inner tubes, or fill too much sealant, and there is a significant reduction in rolling resistance.
@@panzerveps MTB is a different story, I have set up MTB TL tyres many times - that's much easier and faster than road TL. But setting up road TL is painful even after repeating the process quite a few times. Haven't tried CX though.
And rolling resistance - that's quite subjective, I barely felt even tiny, marginal difference. I guess placebo effect plays bigger role than the actual difference in performance is.
@@denisdrc5836 I'm fully aware. I run tubeless on my road bike now, and after a few years of fuzzing about on my cx and mtb(s), it's not that hard to do on a road bike either, in my experience.
Running a custom built wheel with Vitoria Corsa, and it's a nice fit.
One huge advantage of tubeless road is running lower pressures for comfort. I've never noticed a puncture while riding, but have been surprised to see several sealed punctures on the inside of the tire when changing out worn tires.
Literally setting up a tubeless tyre right now! Perfect timing :)
Hey GCN! I've recently discovered TIME pedals as i've dug up an old pair of Mavic zxellium pedals out of the shop that I work at. Ive done some research and most sources and reviews I have found have very few negative comments about them aside from cleat durability. I guess I'd just like to know why they aren't more well known? Bought them myself to test out and they are great!
Having just punctured the innertube on my Super73ZG this morning, I might consider this option.
Been on Sew-ups for 40 years and have no plan on switching .. tape/mount/ride .. no muss no fuss. Plus now that everybody is switching to tubeless I can pick up nice nice carbon sew-up rims for a dime 😬👍
watching this after my first tubeless puncture, small flint which the sealant failed to fix(it probably was a bit old ) , now tyre will not seal with a track pump with air chamber. Also it looks like the new sealant has not worked. gonna try the soapy water tommorrow . not a fan at present, the fact that one of the hacks is to insert an inner tube is kind of ironic!
Soapy water on the edges. Seat the tire fully both sides. Remove valve core blow up the tire till it "pings" on to the rim. Slowly release air. Insert sealant via the valve with a siringe or needle nose bottle insert valve core, give it a twirl and pump it back up. ZERO mess unlike the way shown in the video...
This guy is correct
100% correct way to do it ! Set up around 8 sets like this now and it's a standard process that works well
Nope, not a chance in hell with Stan's Race
Agree tubeless is great and easy. Decent pump or co2 cartridge makes it much easier
CO2 pump was a gamer changer for me too. I'm on Mavic and my track pump didn't have the volume to seat the tyres. CO2 does it first time every time. I also put sealant in after seating the tyre - no mess
@@simonthomson4034 yea I syringe the the sealant in through the valve. (Without valve core obv)
Wow you did that in jeans n t! I would defo need full boiler suit with heavy duty gloves!
wow a youtube video on how great tubeless are ! you dont see many of them !
How much sealant you recommend? I have mountain bike 29"x2.35...txs!
I had some Maxxis tubeless ready tyres. They sealed fine but when I put them in water I noticed very tiny bubbles coming from the sidewalls. In spite of trying to rotate the tyres to get sealant there I still haven't managed it.
Haven't tried tubeless. I like the idea of self-sealing small punctures, which have made up most of my flats over the years. Then again, sealant has been available for inner tubes for many years and I've never bothered with that either. It probably comes down to how often you're bothered by flats.
If you can't get a tubeless tyre to seat, try an extra layer of rim tape. Worked for me.
Managed to fit a Pirelli P Zero Race TLR on a Bontrager rim today - the fit is so tight, no matter what I do I can't get it to "pop" into place before putting sealant in. Tried soapy water around the edges, but the tyre is so firmly stuck to the middle of the rim it just won't move. I use a floor pump. Surely there must be an easer way?
You’ve demonstrated how easy it can be to fit tubeless tyres. What ‘intimidates’ me is the ongoing maintenance - could you show what sort of ‘mess’ there is should the tyre need to be replaced? Also, what’s other maintenance checks/tasks (sealant top up, etc) need to be considered. Thanks
Ollie did a video on this just over a year ago. ua-cam.com/video/aWdE7b_OwAA/v-deo.html
How about a video on how to re setup a tubeless setup after you've broken a spoke?
Exactly my thought. Had a hole that didn't seal on the ride and I had to use an innertube. Never got it to seat again after fixing the tire. Now I'm back to tubes. The mess was one thing, but having to use a new tire afterwards is a deal breaker.
Just put on tubeless tyres for the first time, GP5000s. Impossible to get onto my Fulcrum Wind 55s by hand. Used 3 tyre levers and they were on in 5-10mins.
having problems fitting tubeless tyre to my mavic ust wheels
i bought a goodyear eagle f1 700x25c
really struggled to get the tyre on the rim when i finally did it was that tight in the centre of the rim well i couldn't get any air in the tyre even using a large compressor
i since had to cut the tyre off the rim as I wouldn't come off evenwith tyre levers
any advice on which tyre to buy that are easier to fit would be appreciated
Does the wheel need to be tubeless ready? I’ve been tubeless on my MTB’s for years, including ‘ghetto’ tubeless where I’ve converted tubed rims - does it work with the smaller volumes and higher pressures of road rims?
How many more times? The setup is easy. Puncture that won't seal out on the road is where that problems start. Been there done that and not going back.
You have to shake the bottle before putting it in the tyre because the crystals tend to stay at the bottom. Use race sealant and not normal sealant. I recommend sealant from Trek.
When parking the bike keep the valve at the top.
I use a compressor to inflate the tyres. With a normal pump impossible.
Marmite is great! And you do make tubeless tires seem easy but what about refilling them and maintainance? Are there any accidents that could happen with tubless tires where you dont have sealant ready?
Refilling them is quite easy: get yourself a valve core remover (costs a couple of quid), and pour sealant in through the now open valve. Many sealants come in a bottle with some sort of nozzle, which makes this job easy.
Maintenance: except for the occasional refilling (about once every three months or so, during winter you might even get away with a month or two longer), there is none :)
Accidents: You can puncture, but most punctures will be sealed by the sealant (unless you forgot to add fresh sealant every three months or so!). Those that won't can usually be fixed with a tubeless plug (again, those only cost a couple of quid and are very easily carried along on your rides). If that still doesn't work, you can always pop in a regular inner tube, so it's not a bad idea to carry one even if you're going tubeless.
It looks like you just release the air 1st but would advise to do that outside for obvious reasons then remove the valve core to refill and maintenance you just do your usual pre ride checks with the tyre inspection and always carry the necessary kit for the road side maintenance
interesting looking pump chuck. which topeak pump model is that?
great tutorial🤙🏽, how much sealant did you guys put in per tyre? and how much tire pressure? i currently have a conti 5000 TLR 700c X 28mm
And no risk of dribbling that onto your rotor or cassette? Why not recommend a dry seating then install sealant through valve? It’s just nonsense to pretend that everything ‘just works’ when doing tubeless maintenance.
Tbf sealant wipes off very easily, but I agree that these processes are never as quick and easy as slick videos like to make out.
Hi, I just bought a tubeless road bike I checked the tyres and inserted a cable tie to see if it has sealant inside but its all dry. Can i just top up sealant to the tyres or set up the tyres again?
Must I pump the sealant in while installing a new tires? Or can I only pump in when there is a puncture? From my horrible experience with my older tubular last time, the sealant can clog up the valve, making it impossible to pump air over time. If your valve is facing 6 O clock and the sealant can dry up there.
How often would you replace the sealant?
Every 3 to 4 months
I think ‘top up’ might be more accurate. Yeah, depending on the sealant, 3 or 4 months need to check the levels and/or top up. Not sure how often people will take off the tire, clean out sealant residue & re-install.
@@rplumb7697 how do you check levels without taking tyre off?
HELP! just tried mounting 2 new Schaller 700x28 on 2 brand new zipp firecrest 303 wheels. Used air compressor, replaced valve stem. Neither wheel will hold air. Can't imagine both wheels (tape valves) are bad. Shouldn't a tubeless setup be able to hold air before injecting sealant? Thanks for feedback!
My vittoria corsa s go on easy as. However, the air just escapes? Any ideas? Using a milk it to surge the pressure
Getting the Continental GP5000 TL on a pair of Campy Bora WTO was quite the task, as my neighbours can attest. I wish it had been as easy as shown here. Had to use two tyre levels and a lot force to get them over the rim.
The GP5000 TL are known to be tight fitting on certain rims. Some wheel manufacturers don't recommend them when setting up tubeless and Continental state they are for hooked rims only. There are now standards from ETRTO for new tubeless systems so we should start to see better compatibility soon.
lovely wheels but you should just have a nice easy life and use tubes
The more I read or videos I watch the more I'm convinced that I will never go tubeless. I see the value in competition where a flat could be a game changer but for a recreational cyclist I don't see it being worth the bother.
unless you like sitting by the side of the road in the middle of nowhere, don’t bother. A solution to a problem that isn’t a problem
@@DrJRMCFC This is why tubeless or not you should have with you, oh my, a spare tube and pump.
@G Rossi A valued argument in support of tubeless but faced with your circumstances I would probably try a tire liner strip before going tubeless. In the interest of keeping things clean, particularly in the event of a roadside repair, I would be willing to sacrifice performance for reliability. If you've tried both methods and now prefer tubeless I would love to hear your thoughts comparing these two technologies.
I got on one tyre and it was easy the other the bike shop had to put it on and this always happens when I do tubeless everytime and I have gone through 4 sets of tyres. I will need to invest into a track booster pump for next time.
How often to top up with sealant roughly and do you need to have wheel re-tensioned when you go tubeless? Cheers
What's the weight differences in general?
You edited out the swearing and skinned knuckles 🤣 personally I think tubeless is a fantastic idea, never had them before, but have them on my new giant
I found the Schwalbe G-One Allround TLE very easy to get on to a Fulcrum Racing 900. However (!), the well in the rim allows the tyre to just sit loose inside it. Had to resort to a compressor and removal of valve core, and still then needed some luck. If this thing ever flats at the roadside I'll never get it back on again with a hand pump. I would have put a Vittoria Air-liner inside, but it will have to wait as nobody has them on stock (in Germany at least)
put on mine (mavic UST carbon pro and Yksion pro II) yesterday... took me 4 hour. once the beed is seated in the rim it's nearly IMPOSSIBLE to remove it.
Is there an advantage to pouring the sealant before seating both sides of the tyre? I’m about to setup my first ever tubeless wheels later and it looks easier to seat the tyres and then pour the sealant through the core of the valve? Or am I missing something?
I find that trying to squirt sealant though the narrow valve stem to be tricky, unless you have the correct size hose.
What pump are you using? Cheers.
So I just bought myself a new pair of carbon rims assuming they’d be tubeless ready ... well, they’re not! So is it really recommendable to make those rims tubeless ready afterwards? Or are there any downsides???
you had a lucky escape. If Julian Alaphilippe can win a stage and take the yellow jersey with clinchers, you’ll be just fine. And you won’t be sitting under a tree one day wishing you had a spare tube to get you home.
Alex spilt more sealant than I put in the tyre!!
Take valve out, Seat the tyre dry, pour sealant through the valve, reinstall valve. No need to make a mess or waste sealant!
Yeah that’s my method also...
It's time - a fine dem! 👌🏻
Can someone explain how a tubeless becomes more cheaper and cost-effective than other tire setups (if you consider that your wheels are tubeless ready)
Well put
My Trek checkpoint ALR5 came with tubeless ready wheels and G2 tubeless ready tires...why did the dealer say I needed to buy new tires and pay 100.00 fee to go tubeless when I bought the bike if tires are tubeless ready?
how long does it take for the sealant to dry out, and when to know to top it up? would it last a whole summer with just one go?
I use Stans No Tubes sealant, and it easily last the summer, or more. I check the sealant level maybe twice a year by taking out the valve core, and using a syringe.
Depends on a lot of things, but it usually lasts between 4-8 months. I just shake the wheel and listen for sloshing sound.
@@michaelmechex awesome, i can only ride outside here 5 months of the year in canada
Great for first application, but when you get a flat that just doesn't seal, it's time to call your better half for a ride home.
I've noticed from experience one aspect that doesn't get enough attention. On converting a set of Fulcrum Racing 900 DBs to tubeless (with Schwalbe G-One Allround TLE 40mm) the choice of valve is critical. I've used MucOff valves before, but I couldn't find them in stock for this job, so I used a SRAM kit for this dimension of wheel. The valve just won't sit flush and seal against the tape in the valve hole. It's the shape of the included rubber parts that's the problem. None of them so far fit the inner profile of the rim. Am about the try the 3rd one, and then I'll be cutting up an old tube if that doesn't work. Seems to me that the progress that we have seen with standardisation of rims/tyres needs to be matched by standardisation of the valve profile. Please highlight this crucial aspect in future videos
Got the tyre on. Removed the valve core and pumping flat out. No air staying in the tyreor seating of the bead. Glad I hadn't put in any sealant first. Fail.
#gcntech Hi guys. Any advice for how to get tubless tyer onto the rim when using a emergency inner tube out on a ride? I had a puncture the other day and using my hand pump a 1/4 of the tyer didn’t sit up on the rim so mad a uncomfortable wobble cycling home? Thanks
@/askgcntech - Shimano hydraulic break leavers - Why is that flat bar calipers dont work with drop bar leavers however drop bar calipers work with flat bar levers. What is the technology behind the drop bar & flat bar levers/calipers? eg. Ultegra 810 drop bar does not work with xtr 4 piston caliper however it works the other way.
I'm wondering about that Topeak pump, more importantly the presta adapter...
Anyone know where it can be found? I tried searching, to no avail.
What is maximum number of spacers that is safe to put under my stem?
I would try but I keep thinking of those slime inner tubes they are useless, I had green sealant spraying out the tyre the only thing they sealed was the valve so you couldn't pump it up, never again.
try that with a panracer gravel kong 38mm. that would be much more exciting ...
I love Marmite :-)
Mmmmmmmm salty brown sludge with a hint of burnt Guinness and gravy on toast, god only knows why some people don`t like it.
@@chris1275cc Have you tried Marmite Peanutbutter ... taste good
@@knightwish1623 Yes love it, but marmite popcorn is really where its at.
I hate Marmite but love Twiglets, go figure!
@@narcosis9842 I don't know what Twiglets are but if you say they're good ok
I got the local shop to set mine up. So far not good. First ride and the rear tyre lost pressure but no sealant leaking. Pumped it up next day completely flat. Returned to shop who refitted. So far still losing pressure but not so fast. Not a good start to my tubeless experience.
My experience has been crap. Had a set of mavic wheels which came with 25mm mavic tubless tyres. Noting but trouble. Puncture out on the road pump up tyre. Tyre goes down. Give it one more go. Sealant doesn’t do it’s job. Inner tube goes in. At home repair hole. Out riding again same thing happens. Use a tubless tyre repair gadget £20+! It’s a faff. Considering switching to 28mm tubless to give it one more go but At the moment I am thinking it’s just not ready for road bikes.
I've just mounted my tubeless tyres.... bloody right pain to actually get onto the rim in the first place.... manage to get them seated, only to let the air out to fit the core... and both tyres just come unseated again! Blinkin pain. Not a happy experience. I'm tempted to just inject, and reinflate. Why won't they stay seated?
The industry must pay you a lot of money for you to promote tubeless so much
Non stop recently
By the time he’s put half the back one on l’m already 10 miles up the road
@@DrJRMCFC you don't ride with tires on your bike? I gotta see this!!
They’ve had rim brakes binned, on to fresher pastures.
Mention what the offset washer is for. Many people may not notice not the whole is slightly off centered.
I stick to Tubes on Road. Same weight/comfort in total if using Latex and even less with tubolito or similar (though it is fragile I have not had more issues than standard light tubes).
- Similar rolling resistance. Latex means topping up every few days but I always check the pressure anyway.
- You still need to carry 1 spare tube+repair kit with tubeless to be sure of roadside repair assuming you can get the tyre off and on quickly.
So performance and weight is about the same but in summary imo -
Tubeless: < punctures overall + more faff with tubeless overall + more effort, risk, mess and delay to repair when a blowout does occur.
Tubes: > Punctures overall but with less faff than with tubelesss.
Both systems can work well and tubeless is probably the better bet if you do lots of bikepacking away from home on a road bike and go off tarmac often.
I run latex tubes in high thread count tires and the ride/feel is great and I run them a bit soft. Generally, I get about 1.5 year's worth of no flats (I weigh 150 pounds), even on our poor quality streets and roads, with this set up. I have found that as that 18 month time approaches, the tubes fail and I replace them.
Why not sitting the tyre first and then inject the sealant via the valve (with core removed)?
works with thin sealants but not with those with lots of really long fibres - you will never get Stan's Race to go through a valve
You can't fool us. You just wanted to show off that fancy new Topeak pump
The funny thing is that he didn’t used its new fancy feature.
Fancy looking pump....
What pump is this?
One of the advantages of tube tires is you don’t have to deal with the goop. Just install and pump up with air. EZ!