How to solve Decal Silvering problems (MP Miniatures Quick Tip)
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Here is how I minimize silvering on decals. The kit used in this demonstration is an old 1:72 Ar-234 C-4, produced by Dragon.
You can find more information in my modelling blog:
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Music: "By the Fireplace" and "Home for the Holidays" by TrackTribe , from UA-cam Audio Library.
Excellent advice, it really works.
I find it best to be ahead of the game. Good gloss coat is #1. After that, use a Dremel with a polishing pad and polish the decal area (a piece of denim/soft cloth also works).
Absolutly! The gloss coat will help a lot, but it also adds to the paint film thickness. If your model has deeply engraved details, than that's a perfect solution, but if its details are shallow or just very finely engraved, an extra paint layer can start to overflow them. I like model kits with very thin engravings and that is why I try to avoid the extra gloss coat, usually applying the decals directly over the painted model surface. If the decals are new and of good quality, they almost fuse with the painted surface. Cheers and thank you for your comment.
@@marcopreto Good point. I used to skip the gloss and would just polish the flat paint with a soft cloth (old t-shirt)...that did help out a lot!
The cement trick I used to get a decal to conform over a dome that would nt any other way
Muito bacana mesmo!!! Valeu pela dica!!!
Very nice tutorial! Thank you
Não sabia o nome desse problema! Silvering!!!
Excelente Marco.
Muito bom Marco
Muito bom.
What I've done to a "silvered" decal (after application) is piece it many times with a fine needle and re-flood with setting solution
That helps a lot, but on some more "stubborn" decals, only a strong solvent able to "melt" the decal film can really fix the problem. The issue with strong solvents (like Tamiya's extra thin cement) is that it can damage the underlying paint, so special care is needed to apply very small amounts. Thanks for your comment and I hope you find the video useful.
Cheers
helllo Marco; I meant "decal setting" solution, not "solvents". Isn't sol-va-set considered strong? As far as "old" decals,( I just got an AMT sheet 61 years old), I "bleach them", overcoat and hope for the best. p.s. when I apply, I wet the area with Micro-sol. You have a new watcher.@@marcopreto
@@donwest5387 Thanks! I never tried Sol-va-set, as the strongest decal "softener" I have is Mr Decal Sol, which is quite strong, but sometimes, even this decal solution is not strong enough. Fortunately, it is not common, but with really "nasty" decals I use a chemical capable of "melting" (dissolving) the carrier film - it's really as last resort measure!
Cheers
Hi Marco; Sol-va-set used usually by "millitary" modelers does disolve certain decals.@@marcopreto
Great video,but had to play it with no volume,and subtitles as the music is awful
I'm sorry you do not like the music. Nowadays, we have to be careful not to abuse any copyright and the music library that UA-cam has available is a great resource, but somewhat limited. I hope the video helps you with your scale model projects.
@@marcopreto that’s ok,Like I said,I turned the volume off,some of the best model videos on UA-cam have no music,just the sound of the nips,or a description of what is being done,
A4 garage and the model shed are great examples of that.
Раствор уксуса размечает верхний слой лака и позволяет его снять полусухой кистью. С классической декалью так.