I want to thank you for the excellent tips. I had hardened and dried silvered decals on a large medium grey aircraft, quite visible on the wings, under a sealing coat of clear that sat for months. To try to fix the decals, I began by poking numerous small holes in the decals with a xacto blade. I also poked numerous holes in the decals with a rivet wheel. I first tried micro sol on the silvered decals to no effect. I next tried Tamiya Mark Fit Strong to minimal effect. I finally resorted to several separate applications of Leveling thinner on the silvered decals on the same day I was going to enter the model in a local contest. The leveling thinner worked to greatly reduce the silvering. The same day I used the leveling thinner I ended up entering and winning a local contest with the model that night. The decals were very visible on the finished model so if the decals were silvered it would have been quite visible. The decals looked much much better after the Leveling thinner application.
one more tip: If the silvering appears after a coat of varnish, just sand the decal with a very fine 3000-4000 grit polishing cloth/paper, until the carrier film of the decal is getting really thin. Then spray a thin coat of leveling thinner onto the area and the decal will look like its painted on! Just be aware, don' touch the surface before it dries out completely. After finishing this procedure, you can apply a another coat of varnish to seal everything in.
I am a model railroader, have been for over 50 years. I almost exclusively have used Walthers Solvaset. However, I find that needle/pin/Xacto blade pricking or cutting the silvered areas BEFORE applying Solvaset allows the solution to penetrate to under the decal from the onset. Yes, it often takes multiple treatments, but the end results have always been really good. One word of caution - work slowly, allow the solution to do its job and dry before proceeding. Lastly, Solvaset has been known to remove factory applied lettering; old, incorrectly applied decals (before any final clear sealant) and, unfortunately even the paint itself ..... yeah, experience - I had to strip off the newly painted caboose, repaint and start over with a new set of decals. 😒😒
Excellent tips here. From my experience decal silvering is failure of decal adhesive and has nothing to do with applying gloss clear before decals. You still need smooth paint, but even on matte paint, Tamiya's decal adhesive, VMS decal set & fix, or any product with an adhesive additive work very well at preventing silvering.
I saw another modeler who is having a different technique. He is putting SolvaSet on the decal, and 24hrs later he is peeling off the decal support with a pair of tweezers. Very simple
That leveling thinner made it really hard for me to airbrush because it was so strong. People say it can be used with paints other than lacquers, but I found that to not be true. It's just too strong, it'll eat anything and everything. So I have a HUGE bottle sitting here unused, and I've got some silvered decals to fix. I never knew you could do this, so I'll start with the absolute smallest layer to see how it works. I'm not kidding about how strong this stuff is, it'll strip anything with small amount on qtip.
@@WasatchModeler Tamiya Acrylics. I did test this on a Gundam waterslide decal with just a tiny dab and it ate it alive, so.. Probably do not want to use this on very thin / delicate decals.
I thin tamiya acrylics, ak real color, gunze solvent based and aqueous acrylic with leveling thinner and never had any issues. Not even when I spray mr color clear varnish in a ratio of 4:1 (thinner varnish). The key is you need to apply really thin layers and not letting the paint/varnish build up in certain areas.
Hi,Where do you buy the holder for your models? And whats exactly the name for it. I wanna try to buy it in Europe or otherwise in the usa. Thanks! Nice channel!
I have run across an issue where the paint around a decal will turn white. Like something has bled from the decal or the MicroSol onto the paint and turns it white-ish. I use Future for my clear gloss coat. Could that be the culprit?
@@WasatchModeler thank you👍 I’m building the Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer and put a Mig Ammo glossy coat over the paint. Some decals silvere a bit after putting the Mig Anmo Matt coat over it. Would you recommend the Micro Sol to be put over these a couple of times or just one time?
I've seen several videos on decal silvering.....I have over 40 model airplanes, many over 20 years old and I've never seen any silvering. This must be a very very rare thing.
You probably use a brush instead of an airbrush. Brush coats generally are thick and wet when applied and thus produce a relatively smooth surface onto which the decals can stick due to surface tension. Airbrush finishes can get grainy due to paint drying before it reaches the surface of the model. This allows microscopic pockets of air to be trapped between the grains of paint, which will show up as silvering under the decal. This usually happens on matte finishes, which is why it is recommended to spray a gloss coat before applying decals, and only then applying a matte varnish. And no, this is not a very rare thing, it is relatively common.
I want to thank you for the excellent tips. I had hardened and dried silvered decals on a large medium grey aircraft, quite visible on the wings, under a sealing coat of clear that sat for months. To try to fix the decals, I began by poking numerous small holes in the decals with a xacto blade. I also poked numerous holes in the decals with a rivet wheel. I first tried micro sol on the silvered decals to no effect. I next tried Tamiya Mark Fit Strong to minimal effect. I finally resorted to several separate applications of Leveling thinner on the silvered decals on the same day I was going to enter the model in a local contest. The leveling thinner worked to greatly reduce the silvering. The same day I used the leveling thinner I ended up entering and winning a local contest with the model that night. The decals were very visible on the finished model so if the decals were silvered it would have been quite visible. The decals looked much much better after the Leveling thinner application.
So glad it worked out. Congrats on the win.
I like your comparative approach and the use of the clear base to see what happens underneath the decal.
Thanks for the tips!
one more tip: If the silvering appears after a coat of varnish, just sand the decal with a very fine 3000-4000 grit polishing cloth/paper, until the carrier film of the decal is getting really thin. Then spray a thin coat of leveling thinner onto the area and the decal will look like its painted on! Just be aware, don' touch the surface before it dries out completely. After finishing this procedure, you can apply a another coat of varnish to seal everything in.
I am a model railroader, have been for over 50 years. I almost exclusively have used Walthers Solvaset. However, I find that needle/pin/Xacto blade pricking or cutting the silvered areas BEFORE applying Solvaset allows the solution to penetrate to under the decal from the onset. Yes, it often takes multiple treatments, but the end results have always been really good.
One word of caution - work slowly, allow the solution to do its job and dry before proceeding. Lastly, Solvaset has been known to remove factory applied lettering; old, incorrectly applied decals (before any final clear sealant) and, unfortunately even the paint itself ..... yeah, experience - I had to strip off the newly painted caboose, repaint and start over with a new set of decals. 😒😒
Thank you for an excellent presentation. Very well done and I like the fact you used several products. Cheers!
Excellent tips here. From my experience decal silvering is failure of decal adhesive and has nothing to do with applying gloss clear before decals. You still need smooth paint, but even on matte paint, Tamiya's decal adhesive, VMS decal set & fix, or any product with an adhesive additive work very well at preventing silvering.
Yup
great comment! gotta try it out
I saw another modeler who is having a different technique. He is putting SolvaSet on the decal, and 24hrs later he is peeling off the decal support with a pair of tweezers. Very simple
ua-cam.com/video/A6jeW_m0Qvg/v-deo.html
You can only do this with specific decals
Nice, useful video. I have had good results on very stubborn silvering by spraying MEK through airbrush.
Nice! Thanks for the tip!
Just fyi, anticipating comments NEVER works. It's better to not be hung up on what people will say and just go for it
I thank you for this information. I could not even think that decals are to blame. You use a knife in this case, and I use a needle.
That leveling thinner made it really hard for me to airbrush because it was so strong. People say it can be used with paints other than lacquers, but I found that to not be true. It's just too strong, it'll eat anything and everything. So I have a HUGE bottle sitting here unused, and I've got some silvered decals to fix. I never knew you could do this, so I'll start with the absolute smallest layer to see how it works. I'm not kidding about how strong this stuff is, it'll strip anything with small amount on qtip.
Yes it is relatively strong as a thinner. What were you mixing it with?
@@WasatchModeler Tamiya Acrylics. I did test this on a Gundam waterslide decal with just a tiny dab and it ate it alive, so.. Probably do not want to use this on very thin / delicate decals.
@@Philtho very true. I might buy one to test that
I thin tamiya acrylics, ak real color, gunze solvent based and aqueous acrylic with leveling thinner and never had any issues. Not even when I spray mr color clear varnish in a ratio of 4:1 (thinner varnish). The key is you need to apply really thin layers and not letting the paint/varnish build up in certain areas.
wow also the exact same decal I saw on my 109 it silvered
Sweet🤗 Love mr leveling thinner!
What is the source for the build stand shown?
I think you are referring to the masterpiecemodels.com/scale-model-jigs-now-available/
Great video! Where did you get that awesome aircraft jig from?
masterpiecemodels.com/product/scale-model-jig-72-48-scale/
Not sure if it's been mentioned but have you tried Decal Fixer from HIQ Parts ..been an absolute dream to work with especially on aircraft 😉
Do you have a link?
Hi,Where do you buy the holder for your models? And whats exactly the name for it.
I wanna try to buy it in Europe or otherwise in the usa.
Thanks! Nice channel!
masterpiecemodels.com/ tell John that Cameron sent you
Try pure acetone for the most stubborn decals.
Teeheehee
Try pure acetone. I'll try leveling thinner but acetone works the best so far.
Will give it a go. Sounds too strong.
@@WasatchModeler It is, I use it only as a last resource
I have run across an issue where the paint around a decal will turn white. Like something has bled from the decal or the MicroSol onto the paint and turns it white-ish. I use Future for my clear gloss coat. Could that be the culprit?
I would try a different clear coat. Solvent might be reacting
Can a flat topcoat spray be used directly on decals to seal them in? If so which spray?
They can. As long as it is not too hot like some rattle cans. People put a gloss them flat to try to blend the decal thickness in.
Is it still possible to de-silver decals after airbrushing one Matt Varnish layer over them? Thanks
Yes, just adds difficulty. You need to now get the solvent through two layers.
@@WasatchModeler thank you👍 I’m building the Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer and put a Mig Ammo glossy coat over the paint. Some decals silvere a bit after putting the Mig Anmo Matt coat over it. Would you recommend the Micro Sol to be put over these a couple of times or just one time?
I've seen several videos on decal silvering.....I have over 40 model airplanes, many over 20 years old and I've never seen any silvering. This must be a very very rare thing.
Why do you think that is? Any links to photos?
C'mon B, you have some silvering?
You probably use a brush instead of an airbrush. Brush coats generally are thick and wet when applied and thus produce a relatively smooth surface onto which the decals can stick due to surface tension. Airbrush finishes can get grainy due to paint drying before it reaches the surface of the model. This allows microscopic pockets of air to be trapped between the grains of paint, which will show up as silvering under the decal. This usually happens on matte finishes, which is why it is recommended to spray a gloss coat before applying decals, and only then applying a matte varnish.
And no, this is not a very rare thing, it is relatively common.
Probably some glasses are in order...Every modeler suffers silvering at some point