I used my A1 at minus 45 degrees centigrade close to the Arctic Circle; I had to place it in a fridge to warm it up, to stop it becoming an ice sculpture, and the winters of 1991 and 1994 in Antarctica. I just used fully automatic, due to wearing gloves all the time, never a bad exposure. Never had a problem; not like others who had the latest and greatest of other Japanese makers cameras, the LCD liquid in the displays froze and exploded the displays. Wonderful Camera.
@@UAP23 Hello, sorry I don’t share my photos; but I do have some UA-cam videos taken by my Hitachi VHS recorder of my time in Antarctica at the Australian Casey Base. The following link shows a Leopard Seal stalking a Penguin then me. All the best. ua-cam.com/video/v6fd4krmRr4/v-deo.html
As mentioned in the video, the AE1 models can be fitted with an auto winder. The A1, on the other hand, can be fitted with a motor drive for even faster film advance and a better grip. The A1 also has the option of changing the focusing screen for various types of photography AND also allowing for cleaning any dust or dirt that may get behind the screen which can be distracting. Personally I’d go with the A1, but if you want more of an even better option, get a T90 which is considered to be the best manual focusing SLR ever made.
5:00 the optional grip piece also serves to protect the battery door from breaking so easily. Pretty nice example of Canon acknowledging a design flaw and improving in response to feedback.
The A-1 was practically a step before the Canon F series, their professional line. the A1 was a prosume/pro second body kind of camera, which is why it has so many different features + full manual.
I am a real estate Photographer, got this camera as a gift from homeowners I photographed their property and this was their way to say thank you. Camera is in mint condition I really dont think owner used it a lot before. Very grateful and honored he did that, will definitely be buying film soon. Such great videos informative, detailed and well explained.
It's not an exposure check. It's a depth of field check. When you push the tab in, it closes down the aperture on the lens so you can see what your depth of field will be according to what aperture you have chosen.
I noticed the camera suggests a different shutter speed with and without the aperture check enabled. Why is this? And does it affect the final image in some way other than changing the suggested SS?
@@aldorosaless Without the Depth of Field preview button enabled the camera will have the Aperture of the lens set to it's maximum opening (lowest f/stop number, in this case probably f/1.8) so that the image you see you through the viewfinder is as bright as possible. Most all SLR cameras operate like this. When you enable the Depth of Preview button, the camera "stops down" (makes the aperture go to whatever you set it to that is higher than f/1.8) then the amount of light coming through the lens is less, thus causing the light meter in the camera to adjust the shutter speed to something slower to get proper exposure. Anytime you change the Aperture you direclty effect the quantity of light coming into the camera and also the Depth of Field of the final image. Since the Shutter Speed (assuming the camera is in Aperture Priority Mode) will change to get proper exposure, this will effect motion in the final image. Faster shutter speeds will freeze motion while slower shutter speeds will show motion by causing blur in the image either from something moving in the picture or from the photographer not holding the camera still enough during the exposure. Simply put, Aperture and Shutter Speed both effect the expsosure of the image, but Aperture also determines Depth of Field while Shutter Speed deternines Motion in the picture. Hope this makes sense. One of those things that's much easier to show than explain.
@@phototipster oh ok, makes all the sense in the world. I’m familiar with the effects of each, I just didn’t get why the SS changed with the depth of field preview button enabled/disabled. Thank you!
I DO shoot sports with my film cameras, I actually really like using my Canon A-1 and F-1 for shooting motorsports. I try to preselect as many settings as I can- with the A-1 I’m usually in full auto with 1/3 stop overexposure selected, with the F-1 I’ll preset my shutter speed and play with the aperture to get an acceptable exposure. I have power winders on both, and prefer a 200mm 2.8. These are versatile cameras. Attack, attack, attack. They will achieve any task you set before them.
Hey Graham, I got what looked like a mint A1 from Japan off of Ebay, and it was advertised as mint. When I got it and tested it, it worked, but the shutter sounded the same if I set it at 1/2 a second or 1/1000 of a second, but the photos looked properly exposed. Sent it to a great Canon repair guy in N Dakota and he found that the inside had been doused with oil. He thought that someone had used a syringe like they do to get rid of the infamous Canon shutter squeal. He had to replace the inside of the entire camera because the oil was everywhere and gunking things like the mirror lockup. So it wasn't the shutter that was slow, it was the mirror being slowly moved out of the way of the shutter. Totally worth it though, it's a real sweet workhorse now and takes fabulous photos! Thanks!
Jeeze what a mess. Ya you have to be very frugal with that oil. Apparently someone was not before getting it to you. It can quickly become more negative than positive. Glad it’s cleaned up and working now though
The A1 is the "flagship" of the A range (aimed at amateurs), I still have the one that I bought in 1983. The professional Canon range was the F models. As far as which one takes the best images, that would be the one with the best photographer behind it.
Image quality won’t vary at all that’s a given. When it comes to film the body means nothing except for features and easy of use. Glass and film stock make the image. You sure it’s not the A-1 aimed at semi pro and ae-1 at amateur? More advances features in the a-1 and ae-1 is much easier to use.
Great video. Small suggestion. When showing the top down footage of the cameras you should invert the footage so that we are looking down at it as if it were in front of us. I know it may feel like a jump cut but I think it will make the viewing experience better.
Thanks for the break down it really helped. I honestly know what I want for my first film Canon. I currently own an EOS T7 and I took a camera course last semester -- Now the hunt begins.
@@graham_white I'm late to the party on this one, but from my understanding (I have one and used it a lot) it was to prevent bleed-back from LEDs up to the prism and out to the mirror. An SLR works both ways. In low light long exposures it could have tinted or edged certain exposures. Also partly useful to prevent red on infrared films. Almost always used in conjunction with the viewfinder cover-blades to keep any light from getting through the viewrinders and onto the film. I used it a few times on some long star trail exposures, myself.
Hi, Great video! I'm not sure if someone pointed it out, but what you call "exposure checker", by the side of the lens mount, is in fact the depth of field preview lever - it closes the diafragm to the set aperture prior to the shot. And the black button by the side of the pentaprism is the battery checker.
I have an ae1 program, I bought it for 20euros 10 years ago in a local French garage sale. The original strap and leather case were included. One of the Best deal I've made in my life.
As a general rule, early electronic cameras were far less reliable than the mechanical cameras. The AE1 was pretty good to be honest but people overplay this point. The Nikkormat ELW had an autowinder in 1975 a year earlier than the AE1 (at least according to Mr Google). Anyway an autowinder is a poor man's motor drive and there were plenty of motor drive cameras before the AE1. The AE1 was in my opinion over priced at the time and still is, and not particularly a great camera. The A1 was a very good camera. It was well built and produced excellent results in challenging conditions. Quite hard to praise it too much as unlike the AE1 it was constructed to very high standards and had features that Canon's competitors could not match. It was so good that at launch people were prepared to pay twice the retail to get hold of one without waiting. Yes, demand completely outstripped supply. I love the Canon EF, that was a brilliant camera, especially at the time it was launched. However, compared to the AE1 it was probably a very expensive camera to make. The real success of the AE1 was all the cost reductions which gave Canon a very profitable camera and that profit was invested into marketing making a virtuous circle of camera sales and profits. When all said and done, I did enjoy the video.
I know I come very late to the party but just want to comment that the A-1 was geared to professional work, mostly on a tripod and as a studio camera, hence the need for the viewfinder curtain and all that safety measures to avoid changing the settings, cheers and keep the good work
That’s just so not true. While these features might be useful in a studio, the camera was definitely used in the field for commercial and journalism too.
After using my A-1 for a month it’s easily my favorite in my collection. Best $40 I’ve spent. It’s a good looking camera also imo, slapped on a nice little red shutter button to give it a little personality lol
I own at least one of all "A" Canons, except the AT-1. You have to keep the lens on "A" on the A-1, AE-1, and AE-1 Program. I've fallen in love with the AL-1. The AL-1 lets you rotate the aperture ring, and it will set the shutter. The AV-1 will do the same, but the AL-1 has shutter speeds if you want a bit of "Manual". You can shoot aperture priority on the A-1, but you have to set the lens on "A" and set the aperture with the dial. I really need to do my "A" Canon video I keep saying I'll do. By the way, the T70 rocks too.
I’m really looking into the t70, they are interesting. For automatic mode yeah you have to leave it on A for all 3 correct. And yes the aperture is odd on the A-1 for sure. I honestly have never seen the al-1 or Av-1 in person, just in online searching. Not overly common I guess.
@Graham White The AL-1 is a delight. Mine still has its battery cover! My complaint with it is the wind lever is a bit floppy. This is a far better camera than the AV-1 for people who want aperture preferred. My favorite FD cameras are the AT-1 for manual exposure and the T-90 for automatic exposure.
Just picked up a dusty A-1 with a few lenses in a camera bag today at my local thrift for $40. After some meticulous cleaning it’s basically in mint condition. Excited to use it on my trip to Nola. It has the squeal though, so I have to figure out how to fix that without damaging anything on the inside. I saw someone used sewing machine lubricant on the gears so I may go that route but for now I don’t mind the sound.
Solid pickup! What a bargain. There are videos on UA-cam where you can remove the baseplate or the lens mount plate and dab a small amount of yes sewing machine oil or nyoil via a small syringe onto the affected gear. Pros would say it needs a complete CLA which technically is true. But I’ve tried this method and it does work to clear out and lubricate the gears needed
I know this video was uploaded 4 years ago but the price range is much bigger than that. In England if youre interested in a good quality for both 3 cameras you expect to pay between 200-315 bucks...but great video. Very well explained. Thanks
Thanks! Yeah pricing is tricky since it varies drastically by country and region as well as time. it can go up or down significantly in just a few months depending on trends and market as well as how high a quality you want to invest in.
My first one was in the early eighties, that never let me down, hard times and I had to sell it to finance my degree. Now I have digital 2, canon t90, canon EOS 1N, EOS 100, EOS 1000n, leica d-lux 7, canon 5D mark ii, but my heart always, always with my canon A1. I just found a reliable seller, camera fully serviced (actually the seller’s job) and new light seals, all optics and viewfinder are clean. Cannot wait for next week.
AE1+P - I had five, have given two away now. I never employ priority modes but prefer the metering of the AE1+P over the AE1. AE1+P has never let me down - coupled with a desirable lens results are fabulous.
1:15 The Canon EF (1973) was Canon's first electronic exposure shutter priority SLR camera. 1:42 That lever is the stop-down metering/ depth-of-field preview lever. 3:19 The original Canon F-1 (1970) was the first Canon FD camera with the ability to add an autowinder/ motordrive. 6:32 The "A" position is actually meant as "Active" in Canon's literature. - The Canon AE-1 Program also has the best focusing screen in terms of brightness of the other two because the focusing screen was shared with the professional Canon New F-1 model. 16:58 The Canon EF (1973) is not a fully mechanical camera. The slow shutter speeds marked in yellow are electronically timed, requiring a battery to operate from 1 sec - 30 sec.
My main film bodies for years were A-1, T70 and T90. I have also used AE-1P but was underwhelmed by it. The T70 is functionally similar but has an incredibly easy to use exp lock button which AE-1P/A-1 also has but is slow and inconvenient in comparison. The T70 also has a partial metering option which saved me on many occasions.
Great video. I own the AE1 Program, that I bought as my first SLR back in 1982, I still have it - on display in my shelf - but I wonder if I should pick it up again for at play with a roll of film - for the first time since its retirement i 2003.... (Yes I used my AE-1 P for 21years...) - lovely camera.
I used an A-1 for years. Got my first one about 35 years ago. A real Swiss army knife of a camera - five shooting modes if I remember right since you can shoot stopped down too.
I just recently picked up an AE-1 at a flea market for $85 plus tax. It came with the 50mm lens. He didn't know if it still worked so I was buying it on a chance. I bought a couple of batteries and a 3 pack of film and went out and shot a roll of film untruth l through it and dropped it off to get developed. I bracketed my exposures with the shutter speed too see the best way to shoot it and also checked for light leaks. The photos turned out fine. I just shot another roll through it today. I mainly want to use it for black and white street photography. I think I did ok on the price.
@graham_white it does have the Canon shutter wheeze though. I need to find a bottle of oil that has the long needle on it so I can get a few drops of oil in the right place and it will be a good as new.
I'm currently trying to get my Dad's old AE-1 program working again... I think my last step is opening up and cleaning up the lens, which I'm not extremely excited to do as until now I've only been an amateur camera fan
Don't forget the AT-1! The fully manual cousin. The old needle and loop setup. It was my first nice camera I got when I was twelve and just pretty intuitive. Ae-1 is a close second.
AT1 was my first camera. I bought it from a friend 40 years ago and it still works perfectly. Love it. Because there were no automated options, I had to learn about shutter speeds and f-stops and depth of field etc., which has stood me in good stead for any situation with any camera ever since.
Well what do you guys think I should go for my first SLR, here where I am A-1 goes for not much more than an AT-1, the option of auto for me as a begginer is great but would learn more and quicker if I had to do it all myself (AE-1 is so much more expensive here)
@@stefangrubesic2708 Both are great cameras and you won't go wrong with either of them. I used both of them for years. An AT1 will teach you about photography because you have no auto options at all. You can use the A1 in manual mode and it's great, but it's very easy to use the automatic modes all the time if you're not careful.
@@bountybar thanks for advice, I've gone to the rabbit hole of watching videos for hours now and I think it's gotta be A-1, for like 30€ more it's such a complete camera, but yeah I guess stop myself from keeping it in auto since it's apparently surprisingly good at it
They allowed you to turn off the viewfinder LEDs because some people maintain that info in the viewfinder is a distraction from their artistic creativity. Some still do, but more back then.
I just ordered an A1 as my first film camera. 250€ ish including the 50mm 1.8 in nice condition. I am very excited but also a little intimidated to shoot film. Photography in general is still new to me but I figured why shoot digital with film simulations and edits when real film is what got me interested in the first place!
sounds great! no matter how much you know I feel like those first few rolls are a bit intimidating because you still feel like you have no idea what to expect. It usually ends up working out ok and gets easier quick. Enjoy it!
@@mybenny8 Depending on what oil you use it will get sticky and the camera wont work. This happened to me and now the camera is basicaly landfill. Back then I used WD-40 because I didnt know any better. But in the meantime I got a Nikon FM2 and another AE1 Programm so its not too bad...
I just bought a Canon AE-1 from fleamarket with Tokina 35-70 mm 1:3,5-4,8 for just 35€. With auto winder. Im so exited to shot with it. Its in very good condition.
This video made me want to find an A1 and I got it for bout $130 with a 3rd party 135mm lens, camera bag, shutter cable and lens cleaner kit with the manual. I thought it was a good deal, but I was nervous that It wasn't going to work, but thank god it did. I just tested this with B&W film to see if it comes out nice. Still gotta get used to it a bit, but so far I'm in love with it.
The the first price of the AE- 1 on offer up where ever you’re located HE IS RIGHT ON the PRICE. You just gotta look. Got mine AE-1 program without lens for 100 bucks.. i also found another similar with no lens but it was the original AE-1 for 75 bucks
Hey! I found you at my job. I assess used cameras for a repair and resale company. This really helped me get familiar with the differences in these, so thank you!
The camera "rig" in the thumbnail looks like you're gonna do a benchmark test, whcih I'd really love to see. Exact same scene, different cameras, lenses, film comparison.
Ideally thats what I would have preferred to do. However These bodies haven't been serviced in who knows how long nor do I have the necessary tooling to make sure their shutter speeds etc are accurate so I can't guarantee the factory accuracy of any of them making a direct settings comparison very unreliable without spending a few hundred to have them all serviced and checked.
The Canon F-1 both original and New versions are the best Canon FD cameras. Professional build quality, all metal body, titanium shutter curtains and can last forever.
I just purchased a second F-1 body. More than four decades of pretty hard use and occasional carelessness was beginning to take its toll on the my first which was purchased new.
Both aperture priority and shutter priority are considered fully automatic exposure modes. Program mode makes certain assumptions about exposure that may or may not be true for certain subjects, and selects what if feels are optimum shutter and aperture. Unfortunately, the camera doesn't have a way of knowing whether you want a blurred motion effect, shallow depth of field, or maximum depth of field. What all three of these cameras lacked was a manual metering mode. It certainly was, in my opinion the A-1's greatest shortcoming. Yes, you could use it as a manual camera where you set both aperture and shutter speeds, but you either need to use a separate meter, or some rule of thumb like the sunny sixteen rule. The Canon FD lenses are excellent. They are light weight and offer excellent optical performance. They are inexpensive, readily available, and make it easy to build up a nice set of primes.
Without wanting to introduce any debate on brands and models, I want to add some experiences with other cameras of the same characteristics and time period as the Canon A series. From 1976 Minolta introduced the XD model (XD11,XD7,XD depending on the market) It was the first SRL camera to have both the aperture priority and shutter priority mode as well as a mode called green that without calling it that is a kind of program mode which worked as follows. When in S mode and setting the dial to 1/125s (green mode) the camera tried to maintain a shutter speed of 1/125 and chose the appropriate aperture but could make shorter time changes if at the time of shooting it registered an OTF variation in the measured light compared to that measured before the shot. If the lens diaphragm was not in the A (automatic) position and one was chosen on the lens, the camera would try to maintain that minimum depth of field while changing the shutter speed if more light was required for that shot. Which made that camera a programmable program mode. Later that program was used in the X-700. In manual mode the XD displays the recommended and chosen speed as well as the aperture. The same can be done by the Minolta X-500 and the cheap X-300, but not the more famous X-700.
The A1 was a professional camera back then, while the AE1 was a Prosumer option, costing 3 times less. The New F1 was the weather sealed brick you'd carry in a jungle in Borneo, the A1 was the electronic powerhouse for studio and jobs on the field, while the AE1 program was the capable camera that my kid could have operated, light but with enough function and professional lenses. Perfect second body. the AE1 was che cheaper older option working side by side with the F1
This is the first time seeing your video and have subscribed. Thanks for explaining for us dummies. Last week, I came across my AE1 Program and was well stored. Found battery dead and took two days to find a store that had it. However, my flash was non responsive. It still had film in it, likely 20 yrs old and partially exposed. Having it processed as we speak. No telling what;s on it, if still good. It has the std 50 mm lens, but I had bought a 28 mm Canon and a 200 mm zoom Sears lens. New bat and seems to respond as new. Shot up the rest of the old film on the Christmas tree and Jupiter/Saturn conjunction. Can't wait for the 2 weeks to have film processed. That will tell me if to invest in more film. Film and processing has gotten stupid expensive since the old days! I like your double exposure trick, but still don't understand the exposure button. The owner manual isn't that thorough. Thanks, Mike
Haha thanks Michael! Although if your shooting planets I wouldn’t exactly call you a dummy. It sounds like you have a solid setup, glad I could help a bit. What don’t you understand about the exposure button? Hopefully that film turns out. It’s hit or miss when it’s been sitting in there for so long.
@@graham_white Thanks for the prompt response. I got my Vivitar 3500 to work, bad connections, however, the camera does not show the flash in the view finder and does not trigger the flash. The flash charge light comes on and will flash by the button.
A funny thing about someone else’s film that they left behind in a film SLR. I guess depending on your pov, you can take two different approaches. Either develop it to see the photos, or open the back, and deliberately expose and ruin the photos. When I’ve come across this situation after purchasing a film SLR camera from a thrift store, I’ve opted to expose and destroy the photos because I am concerned that there may be something inappropriate, sordid, bad or even evil or criminal in those photos and I wouldn’t want my lab to think I took those pictures. Just me, I guess.
AE-1 program was the replacement of the AE-1. A-1 was a different high end model. A-1 was radical in that you could choose between shutter and aperture priorities. A-1 was very expensive. On other models the viewfinder cover was on the sling.
I've owned them all including an F1. And I'll tell you the A1 is my favorite. It's like a lighter version of the F1. The F1 was like a tank. Don't get me wrong. Great camera. But something about the A1 won me over. My A1 has been with me a long time now and it's a camera I will never get rid of
Great comparison, but a small correction, the buttons on the right of the lens are not exposure compensation, they are one for exposure check and the other is for AEL (auto exposure lock) The A1 is definitely superior than the hyped AE-1 program
Informative video. I just picked up an A-1 with a 50mm 1.4 lens in mint condition for $40 at a yard sale. I'm not familiar with Canons but when I looked more closely I noticed the 1.4 lens and knew the camera had to be a good model. Sure enough. Now I'm in the process of doing my homework. Which is why I'm checking out your video. I found a PDF of the owner's manual online so I have some reading to do.
@@graham_white Well, it looks like it might not be the deal I thought. The camera is in mint condition, but it wasn't showing any electronic info in the viewfinder. The battery was dead so I replaced it but nothing has changed. I didn't notice any issue like corrosion with the battery compartment so I'm thinking of getting it serviced but not sure if it's worth it. Any suggestions?
@@mrxman581 could be. A service for that could be cheap or more than what the camera is worth. Other option is sell it on ebay "as is" or for parts with the info on whats wrong. usually someone will buy and fix and then you can get a working model.
Wait what what? The Canon EF is an hybrid electro-mechanical shutter priority and manual mode camera. I just got another bone and I'm trying to figure out if the light meter works.
They will all produce good photographs, really the best for you is the one you like the handling of and you can get at a fair price. Personally, out of the three, I like the OM1, the AE1 is fine if you can get a good one at a fair price and I would avoid the OM10, but even the OM10 will produce good results and you really will not see any difference in the final photographs.
@@graham_white there's an easy fix for squeak, just a bit of machine oil via syringe will solve the issue. Yeah many have battery door cracked, but I am lucky that on mine they still work great on both.
Seven. The number of Canon A-1s I currently own. All of them purchased within price ranges of $10 - $40. You can find these cameras cheap if you really look.
Thanks for the great video. Serious urgent question. I need to choose one of the two: Canon A 1 and Nikon FE. What would you choose. I know it's not realistic question but I am newbie. Thanks again
If they are priced the same definitely the Nikon FE. more reliable, more lens options and overall I think a better camera. A 1 might have an extra feature or two (can't remember) but I think you will be much more happy with the FE
nice vid. I currently own the A-1, it's new to me as I haven't shot with it yet but it seems to be a great camera. However, I'm with you on the EF. I miss my EF, it's a tank. I always thought it'd be cool to stip the paint and just let the brass age gracefully on that body.
@@graham_white For sure. I would do it the A-1 I have but I hear its only "Metalized" plastic on the top and bottom covers and not solid brass like the EF. Apparently, you can strip the paint with a chem stripper, put the brass parts in a vinager bath for a bit just to get the "bright" off and then let mother nature take over from there. You can also use a toothpick and some model enamel to repaint the lettering, etc. I say go for it man, I'd love to see that video series.
I know you said to not get into a price war but I'm sorry, The AE-1P is clearly the most expensive out of the bunch as it is the most popular too. If you spend about 200-250 ish USD you can get a very mint example, the A-1 goes for a bit less and the AE-1 a bit less than that. If you find a AE-1P bundled with a 50 1.2 and with its original box, you're looking at 1000 USD or even more.
Did I saw the ae1p wasn’t the most expensive? If so I’m definitely wrong on that cause the program is the most expensive especially since it has that new beginner generation into it. THe A-1 I think is the best/ most features but yeah for sure the program is most. But again depending on condition you could find any of them more expensive or cheaper than the others. If you wanna go strictly by mint etc ya.
The Canon AT-1 was my first SLR back in the day. Solid manual exposure rig. Wanted an A-1, but as a high schooler, it was out of my price range. A friend of mine recently gave me one. So fun to shoot! If you’ve never shot a film camera, you may not appreciate, not only the conveniences of shooting different ISOs from one shot to another, you might also not appreciate the luxury of shooting a camera that has the capability of shooting in manual, shutter priority, aperture priority, AND program mode. LOL! Today’s digital cameras are just so advanced that they essentially shoot themselves.
I love the AT-1. It's SO much like the AE-1. Almost identical. And much better if you often want to over or under expose, the AE-1 is a pain and the AT-1 is great.
The A1 and the AE1 program should be a bit more reliable than the AE1 because the AE1 uses a long tungsten linkage wire that often frays and snaps with use and age. And once it eventually snaps the AE1 will stop functioning. Having that thread sized wire replaced is a very delicate and expensive repair!
Great video but to be honest when I first went into a camera shop in the late 80’s and tried Canon, Nikon, Pentax and Olympus. Out of the four I personally fell in love with the feel and handling of Nikon and apart from a little affair with Olympus Om1,2, 40 and 4 recently (2020). To be fair any of the big four manufacturers make great well proven cameras, Its just up to what you prefer. Another reason I have stuck with Nikon is that they made the decision when producing digital bodies to keep their F mount lens’. I still use plenty of my AIS manual focus lenses on my D800 and D600 DSLR’s, some great glass. Either way the body is purely a box to hold the film, its the photographer who makes an image! Keep up the work, you have a great and interesting presentation style! 👍🏻
I agree personally I’m my go to is the Nikon F2. Basically bulletproof and will never let you down. And I’ve been fortunate enough to gather a rather nice Nikon lineup. But it’s nice to experiment with the big 4 like you said and luckily they are at a price point where it’s easy to buy and sell without really losing money or taking a big hit. And agree! The body only gets you so far.
Going a little more in detail about the AE-1 Program ... If this camera is offering a Program-Mode - that tells us that the camera is looking for the right aperture and time - why is it NOT offering an aperture-priority mode ?? The electronic inside must be able to handle automatic time-changing because that in necessary in Program-Mode anyway !! Perhaps it's possible to shoot in aperture-priority by choosing "program" an time-wheel ... and setting your aperture manually ??
@@graham_white In that case i'll buy an A-1 instead of the AE-1 Program. Shame on Canon not being able to offer a mode that is already used internal on this camera !!
@@oliverweber6842 ha. It's just like companies today, they could easily incorporate all their features in to one product but instead they offer 5 products so you have to pick and choose and buy multiple.
I had the AE-1P and it was so weird (after all my Pentaxes) that I just sold it. I mean not seeing the actual shutter speed selected by the camera. I started looking into A-1, but after this review looks like I'm staying Pentax lol. How come Canon designed such an odd control for the Av mode? in Pentax and Nikon you just change the aperture on the lens and keep shooting.
Is is very odd, especially not changing the aperture on the actual lens but using a little dial attached to the shutter speed. Definitely not my favorite setup but I do prefer it out of these 3.
i have a canon AE-1 PROGRAM camera and i is in really great shape too and it also has a 50 mm lens to . i would love to get another lens for it but what would look for ? anything that would say canon ae-1 ?
🤔 interesting... I got a AT-1 AV-1 And a EF (big artillery) all Canon analog Cameras, i like them all . But if i had to chose only One i would take my Canon EF all analog ,NO auto, you make all the options and I like that.
The canon EF is not a fully mechanical camera, it has a hybrid copal shutter, it needs batteries for speeds from 2 to 30 seconds and also for its use in shutter priority mode 😉
correct. Went over that in my EF vid. I mean you don't need a battery to operate the camera unless you want added features or long exposure speeds which most people would never use.
Hi Graham! Been binge watching a few of your videos recently and wanting to get into film. At the moment I'm torn between a Canon EF and an A-1, both of which I've already found good offers for (especially the A-1), which is the better camera for a beginner like me?
Thanks for the support! For a beginner I would think the A-1 is the better option. it can be a bit confusing at first to figure out settings but it offers several automatic features so you can focus on composition and nailing focus. The EF is fully manual except for speeds slower than 1 second and personally my favorite of the two but you have to manually determine your settings for proper exposure.
how about AV-1, What do these three cameras look like? In another way, if I have AV-1 is it enough, and there is no need to buy any of these three units ?
Bought myself an AE-1 and an A-1, but also got myself an AV-1 and an AT-1. Honestly, I think the AV-1 and AT-1 are two models in the series that people often overlook. One's got full aperture-priority and the other's got full manual control. Both amazing alternatives.
For sure overlooked. They have basically no name recognition today in comparison to these three. Also much less popular to find thrifting etc since compared they sold a ton more ae-1 series
The program still goes for $200+ and technically the A-1 is the better camera. It’s a high price but it’s not outrageous. There are definitely still deals to be found under that price point depending on your location
There is an “A” on the lens aperture. When you rotate to that by pressing the little button in the same ring (If the camera has a compatible setting) it tells the camera to choose the aperture. Of course some older model lenses like the “A” setting I believe.
I suspect the viewfinder shutter is not for light leak on the film but for the potential of light entering the finder affecting AE metering when eye isn’t blocking viewfinder. I think daylight use of self-timer with AE would be a use case?
Very true. Although I could see it being useful for long exposures at night where you may have a flashlight or something behind the camera and that shutter is open for a long time. Probably useful for both I would think.
Very true. Although I could see it being useful for long exposures at night where you may have a flashlight or something behind the camera and that shutter is open for a long time. Probably useful for both I would think.
For long exposures on most cameras I’d think it would only matter before shutter is tripped when metering is being done as the exposure time had been determined by then. Exception would be a few camera like Pentax LX that measures light reflecting off the film during exposure. I think there may be an Olympus that can do this too.
I used my A1 at minus 45 degrees centigrade close to the Arctic Circle; I had to place it in a fridge to warm it up, to stop it becoming an ice sculpture, and the winters of 1991 and 1994 in Antarctica. I just used fully automatic, due to wearing gloves all the time, never a bad exposure. Never had a problem; not like others who had the latest and greatest of other Japanese makers cameras, the LCD liquid in the displays froze and exploded the displays. Wonderful Camera.
That I would like to see
Can you share some of those photos with us? That's amazing!
@@UAP23 Hello, sorry I don’t share my photos; but I do have some UA-cam videos taken by my Hitachi VHS recorder of my time in Antarctica at the Australian Casey Base. The following link shows a Leopard Seal stalking a Penguin then me. All the best.
ua-cam.com/video/v6fd4krmRr4/v-deo.html
The A1 doesn’t have an LCD display.
@@swampscott2670 He said other photographers used LCD screen cameras and those failed, not the A1
Just got the A-1 as my first film camera excited to start using it
Nice!
Where did you buy it from?
Best camera ever and a great first camera was mine at well 16 years ago 😂
As mentioned in the video, the AE1 models can be fitted with an auto winder. The A1, on the other hand, can be fitted with a motor drive for even faster film advance and a better grip. The A1 also has the option of changing the focusing screen for various types of photography AND also allowing for cleaning any dust or dirt that may get behind the screen which can be distracting.
Personally I’d go with the A1, but if you want more of an even better option, get a T90 which is considered to be the best manual focusing SLR ever made.
5:00 the optional grip piece also serves to protect the battery door from breaking so easily. Pretty nice example of Canon acknowledging a design flaw and improving in response to feedback.
aaaah. That makes a lot of sense and I definitely didn't know that. thanks for sharing!
Back in the day when manufacturing companies actually used to care 🙃
I had my AE-1 for 30+ years and it never broke, even being drunk at parties.
The A-1 was practically a step before the Canon F series, their professional line. the A1 was a prosume/pro second body kind of camera, which is why it has so many different features + full manual.
I am a real estate Photographer, got this camera as a gift from homeowners I photographed their property and this was their way to say thank you. Camera is in mint condition I really dont think owner used it a lot before. Very grateful and honored he did that, will definitely be buying film soon. Such great videos informative, detailed and well explained.
Thanks! enjoy that camera, they are great.
It's not an exposure check. It's a depth of field check. When you push the tab in, it closes down the aperture on the lens so you can see what your depth of field will be according to what aperture you have chosen.
Yeah I messed that up.
instaBlaster...
I noticed the camera suggests a different shutter speed with and without the aperture check enabled. Why is this? And does it affect the final image in some way other than changing the suggested SS?
@@aldorosaless Without the Depth of Field preview button enabled the camera will have the Aperture of the lens set to it's maximum opening (lowest f/stop number, in this case probably f/1.8) so that the image you see you through the viewfinder is as bright as possible. Most all SLR cameras operate like this. When you enable the Depth of Preview button, the camera "stops down" (makes the aperture go to whatever you set it to that is higher than f/1.8) then the amount of light coming through the lens is less, thus causing the light meter in the camera to adjust the shutter speed to something slower to get proper exposure. Anytime you change the Aperture you direclty effect the quantity of light coming into the camera and also the Depth of Field of the final image. Since the Shutter Speed (assuming the camera is in Aperture Priority Mode) will change to get proper exposure, this will effect motion in the final image. Faster shutter speeds will freeze motion while slower shutter speeds will show motion by causing blur in the image either from something moving in the picture or from the photographer not holding the camera still enough during the exposure. Simply put, Aperture and Shutter Speed both effect the expsosure of the image, but Aperture also determines Depth of Field while Shutter Speed deternines Motion in the picture. Hope this makes sense. One of those things that's much easier to show than explain.
@@phototipster oh ok, makes all the sense in the world. I’m familiar with the effects of each, I just didn’t get why the SS changed with the depth of field preview button enabled/disabled. Thank you!
The lever to turn off the LED display is for night time long exposure to prevent light to spill over inside the viewfinder.
I DO shoot sports with my film cameras, I actually really like using my Canon A-1 and F-1 for shooting motorsports.
I try to preselect as many settings as I can- with the A-1 I’m usually in full auto with 1/3 stop overexposure selected, with the F-1 I’ll preset my shutter speed and play with the aperture to get an acceptable exposure.
I have power winders on both, and prefer a 200mm 2.8.
These are versatile cameras. Attack, attack, attack. They will achieve any task you set before them.
This is actually one of the best channels ive come across. You've posted exactly what i was looking for, with this video and the olympus xa one.
haha wow thanks a lot man. glad I could help! let me know if you have any questions.
Hey Graham, I got what looked like a mint A1 from Japan off of Ebay, and it was advertised as mint. When I got it and tested it, it worked, but the shutter sounded the same if I set it at 1/2 a second or 1/1000 of a second, but the photos looked properly exposed. Sent it to a great Canon repair guy in N Dakota and he found that the inside had been doused with oil. He thought that someone had used a syringe like they do to get rid of the infamous Canon shutter squeal. He had to replace the inside of the entire camera because the oil was everywhere and gunking things like the mirror lockup. So it wasn't the shutter that was slow, it was the mirror being slowly moved out of the way of the shutter. Totally worth it though, it's a real sweet workhorse now and takes fabulous photos! Thanks!
Jeeze what a mess. Ya you have to be very frugal with that oil. Apparently someone was not before getting it to you. It can quickly become more negative than positive. Glad it’s cleaned up and working now though
Some people can’t comprehend “a drop” of oil lol
The A1 is the "flagship" of the A range (aimed at amateurs), I still have the one that I bought in 1983. The professional Canon range was the F models. As far as which one takes the best images, that would be the one with the best photographer behind it.
Image quality won’t vary at all that’s a given. When it comes to film the body means nothing except for features and easy of use. Glass and film stock make the image. You sure it’s not the A-1 aimed at semi pro and ae-1 at amateur? More advances features in the a-1 and ae-1 is much easier to use.
Great video. Small suggestion. When showing the top down footage of the cameras you should invert the footage so that we are looking down at it as if it were in front of us. I know it may feel like a jump cut but I think it will make the viewing experience better.
hmmm very true. never thought about it that way. thanks Jake
shut up
Absolutely true I was flipping my phone the whole time
I like the way you explain things clearly for every lil button functions. Great channel!
Thanks Jess! Glad it’s helpful
I have owned and used a Canon AE-1 Program since early May of 1983. Excellent camera 📷 👌
Even with all the hype it gets, it really is solid
Thanks for the break down it really helped. I honestly know what I want for my first film Canon. I currently own an EOS T7 and I took a camera course last semester -- Now the hunt begins.
Nice! Glad it was helpful, good luck on the hunt! Haha
I would love to see a video on your vintage Canon lenses.
10:00 If I'm right they also implemented the knob to compensate for the extremely battery draining seven-segment display. Great comparison!
You are probably correct. Thanks Patrick
@@graham_white I'm late to the party on this one, but from my understanding (I have one and used it a lot) it was to prevent bleed-back from LEDs up to the prism and out to the mirror. An SLR works both ways. In low light long exposures it could have tinted or edged certain exposures. Also partly useful to prevent red on infrared films. Almost always used in conjunction with the viewfinder cover-blades to keep any light from getting through the viewrinders and onto the film. I used it a few times on some long star trail exposures, myself.
I just bought an A-1 at my local secondhand camera store. Looking forward to running my first roll of B&W in years!
Hard to beat b&w
thank you for the information. i found this incredibly valuable. i was able to test my camera for sale and know which parts i had. thanks alot man
Glad to hear!
Hi, Great video! I'm not sure if someone pointed it out, but what you call "exposure checker", by the side of the lens mount, is in fact the depth of field preview lever - it closes the diafragm to the set aperture prior to the shot. And the black button by the side of the pentaprism is the battery checker.
ya I mixed that section up, had a few people point it out me haha. Thanks!
I have an ae1 program, I bought it for 20euros 10 years ago in a local French garage sale. The original strap and leather case were included. One of the Best deal I've made in my life.
Great deal for sure
As a general rule, early electronic cameras were far less reliable than the mechanical cameras. The AE1 was pretty good to be honest but people overplay this point. The Nikkormat ELW had an autowinder in 1975 a year earlier than the AE1 (at least according to Mr Google). Anyway an autowinder is a poor man's motor drive and there were plenty of motor drive cameras before the AE1. The AE1 was in my opinion over priced at the time and still is, and not particularly a great camera. The A1 was a very good camera. It was well built and produced excellent results in challenging conditions. Quite hard to praise it too much as unlike the AE1 it was constructed to very high standards and had features that Canon's competitors could not match. It was so good that at launch people were prepared to pay twice the retail to get hold of one without waiting. Yes, demand completely outstripped supply. I love the Canon EF, that was a brilliant camera, especially at the time it was launched. However, compared to the AE1 it was probably a very expensive camera to make. The real success of the AE1 was all the cost reductions which gave Canon a very profitable camera and that profit was invested into marketing making a virtuous circle of camera sales and profits. When all said and done, I did enjoy the video.
I know I come very late to the party but just want to comment that the A-1 was geared to professional work, mostly on a tripod and as a studio camera, hence the need for the viewfinder curtain and all that safety measures to avoid changing the settings, cheers and keep the good work
V true. Thanks for sharing!
That’s just so not true. While these features might be useful in a studio, the camera was definitely used in the field for commercial and journalism too.
I just inherited the A-1 from my grandpa. It's my second film camera and I'm very excited to use it ^^
Thanks for the video!
Nice! Hope it helps
After using my A-1 for a month it’s easily my favorite in my collection. Best $40 I’ve spent. It’s a good looking camera also imo, slapped on a nice little red shutter button to give it a little personality lol
A-1 is great, everything looks better with a fancy red shutter button lol.
Where can i buy a-1 camera?
@@howardratner4893 ebay is easiest place. otherwise check local marketplace apps
I own at least one of all "A" Canons, except the AT-1. You have to keep the lens on "A" on the A-1, AE-1, and AE-1 Program. I've fallen in love with the AL-1. The AL-1 lets you rotate the aperture ring, and it will set the shutter. The AV-1 will do the same, but the AL-1 has shutter speeds if you want a bit of "Manual". You can shoot aperture priority on the A-1, but you have to set the lens on "A" and set the aperture with the dial.
I really need to do my "A" Canon video I keep saying I'll do.
By the way, the T70 rocks too.
I’m really looking into the t70, they are interesting. For automatic mode yeah you have to leave it on A for all 3 correct. And yes the aperture is odd on the A-1 for sure. I honestly have never seen the al-1 or Av-1 in person, just in online searching. Not overly common I guess.
@Graham White The AL-1 is a delight. Mine still has its battery cover! My complaint with it is the wind lever is a bit floppy. This is a far better camera than the AV-1 for people who want aperture preferred.
My favorite FD cameras are the AT-1 for manual exposure and the T-90 for automatic exposure.
Just picked up a dusty A-1 with a few lenses in a camera bag today at my local thrift for $40. After some meticulous cleaning it’s basically in mint condition. Excited to use it on my trip to Nola. It has the squeal though, so I have to figure out how to fix that without damaging anything on the inside. I saw someone used sewing machine lubricant on the gears so I may go that route but for now I don’t mind the sound.
Solid pickup! What a bargain. There are videos on UA-cam where you can remove the baseplate or the lens mount plate and dab a small amount of yes sewing machine oil or nyoil via a small syringe onto the affected gear. Pros would say it needs a complete CLA which technically is true. But I’ve tried this method and it does work to clear out and lubricate the gears needed
I know this video was uploaded 4 years ago but the price range is much bigger than that. In England if youre interested in a good quality for both 3 cameras you expect to pay between 200-315 bucks...but great video. Very well explained. Thanks
Thanks! Yeah pricing is tricky since it varies drastically by country and region as well as time. it can go up or down significantly in just a few months depending on trends and market as well as how high a quality you want to invest in.
My first one was in the early eighties, that never let me down, hard times and I had to sell it to finance my degree. Now I have digital 2, canon t90, canon EOS 1N, EOS 100, EOS 1000n, leica d-lux 7, canon 5D mark ii, but my heart always, always with my canon A1. I just found a reliable seller, camera fully serviced (actually the seller’s job) and new light seals, all optics and viewfinder are clean. Cannot wait for next week.
AE1+P - I had five, have given two away now. I never employ priority modes but prefer the metering of the AE1+P over the AE1. AE1+P has never let me down - coupled with a desirable lens results are fabulous.
Agreed!
1:15 The Canon EF (1973) was Canon's first electronic exposure shutter priority SLR camera.
1:42 That lever is the stop-down metering/ depth-of-field preview lever.
3:19 The original Canon F-1 (1970) was the first Canon FD camera with the ability to add an autowinder/ motordrive.
6:32 The "A" position is actually meant as "Active" in Canon's literature.
- The Canon AE-1 Program also has the best focusing screen in terms of brightness of the other two because the focusing screen was shared with the professional Canon New F-1 model.
16:58 The Canon EF (1973) is not a fully mechanical camera. The slow shutter speeds marked in yellow are electronically timed, requiring a battery to operate from 1 sec - 30 sec.
My main film bodies for years were A-1, T70 and T90. I have also used AE-1P but was underwhelmed by it. The T70 is functionally similar but has an incredibly easy to use exp lock button which AE-1P/A-1 also has but is slow and inconvenient in comparison. The T70 also has a partial metering option which saved me on many occasions.
The T series are great. super quick and easy.
very interesting lighting in this video! great work!
Thanks!
Great video. I own the AE1 Program, that I bought as my first SLR back in 1982, I still have it - on display in my shelf - but I wonder if I should pick it up again for at play with a roll of film - for the first time since its retirement i 2003.... (Yes I used my AE-1 P for 21years...) - lovely camera.
Haha. Probably still works! Can’t always say that about a lot of modern cameras . Should Definitely pick it up and shoot a couple rolls, why not
I used an A-1 for years. Got my first one about 35 years ago. A real Swiss army knife of a camera - five shooting modes if I remember right since you can shoot stopped down too.
it definitely has a lot to offer
I just recently picked up an AE-1 at a flea market for $85 plus tax. It came with the 50mm lens. He didn't know if it still worked so I was buying it on a chance. I bought a couple of batteries and a 3 pack of film and went out and shot a roll of film untruth l through it and dropped it off to get developed. I bracketed my exposures with the shutter speed too see the best way to shoot it and also checked for light leaks. The photos turned out fine. I just shot another roll through it today. I mainly want to use it for black and white street photography. I think I did ok on the price.
nice! 85 isn't a bad deal at all. well done
@graham_white it does have the Canon shutter wheeze though. I need to find a bottle of oil that has the long needle on it so I can get a few drops of oil in the right place and it will be a good as new.
I'm currently trying to get my Dad's old AE-1 program working again... I think my last step is opening up and cleaning up the lens, which I'm not extremely excited to do as until now I've only been an amateur camera fan
Nice summary, thanks Graham. I have the AE1 and am very happy with it.
Glad it was helpful!
Don't forget the AT-1! The fully manual cousin. The old needle and loop setup. It was my first nice camera I got when I was twelve and just pretty intuitive. Ae-1 is a close second.
Not as common but yes still very capable and available.
AT1 was my first camera. I bought it from a friend 40 years ago and it still works perfectly. Love it. Because there were no automated options, I had to learn about shutter speeds and f-stops and depth of field etc., which has stood me in good stead for any situation with any camera ever since.
Well what do you guys think I should go for my first SLR, here where I am A-1 goes for not much more than an AT-1, the option of auto for me as a begginer is great but would learn more and quicker if I had to do it all myself (AE-1 is so much more expensive here)
@@stefangrubesic2708 Both are great cameras and you won't go wrong with either of them. I used both of them for years. An AT1 will teach you about photography because you have no auto options at all. You can use the A1 in manual mode and it's great, but it's very easy to use the automatic modes all the time if you're not careful.
@@bountybar thanks for advice, I've gone to the rabbit hole of watching videos for hours now and I think it's gotta be A-1, for like 30€ more it's such a complete camera, but yeah I guess stop myself from keeping it in auto since it's apparently surprisingly good at it
They allowed you to turn off the viewfinder LEDs because some people maintain that info in the viewfinder is a distraction from their artistic creativity. Some still do, but more back then.
Great vid bro! I own the A-1 and love it. Sleek design and very well thought out. For me shooting in AV is a must so win win for the A-1.
Thanks! I agree, good looking camera with a lot of capabilities.
Just wish there was a silver top and bottom version similar to the ae ones
Bunndog really? I prefer the all black.
@@graham_white Yeah, was always a fan of the old school vibe of the chrome colorway
I just ordered an A1 as my first film camera. 250€ ish including the 50mm 1.8 in nice condition. I am very excited but also a little intimidated to shoot film. Photography in general is still new to me but I figured why shoot digital with film simulations and edits when real film is what got me interested in the first place!
sounds great! no matter how much you know I feel like those first few rolls are a bit intimidating because you still feel like you have no idea what to expect. It usually ends up working out ok and gets easier quick. Enjoy it!
@@graham_white this is solid advice for life in general I feel like! Thank you : )
Thank you so much for an amazing review! Just ordered my AE-1 program as my very first camera, I hope I have made the right decision. :)
Glad to hear!
I had a program for my first as well, really great. Just be sure NOT to put oil in it in case it has the squeaky shutter
@@hamilton3901 umm why not? i just recently did this..
@@mybenny8 Depending on what oil you use it will get sticky and the camera wont work. This happened to me and now the camera is basicaly landfill. Back then I used WD-40 because I didnt know any better. But in the meantime I got a Nikon FM2 and another AE1 Programm so its not too bad...
Thank you for the video, Graham! It was of great help
Glad to hear!
I just bought a Canon AE-1 from fleamarket with Tokina 35-70 mm 1:3,5-4,8 for just 35€. With auto winder. Im so exited to shot with it. Its in very good condition.
nice! solid pickup
This video made me want to find an A1 and I got it for bout $130 with a 3rd party 135mm lens, camera bag, shutter cable and lens cleaner kit with the manual. I thought it was a good deal, but I was nervous that It wasn't going to work, but thank god it did. I just tested this with B&W film to see if it comes out nice. Still gotta get used to it a bit, but so far I'm in love with it.
Ha, nice! Well done. Hope they turn out great!
Not sure what third party lens you have, but one of the big advantages of shooting with the FD series canon cameras, is the Canon FD glass.
This is off topic, but I'd like to know where the "Legacy shooters make every shot count" patch or banner might be available.
wish I could say it was mine. www.tapanddye.com/collections/all-products
Very comprehensive and super helpful. Thanks!
Glad to hear! Appreciate it
The the first price of the AE- 1 on offer up where ever you’re located HE IS RIGHT ON the PRICE. You just gotta look. Got mine AE-1 program without lens for 100 bucks.. i also found another similar with no lens but it was the original AE-1 for 75 bucks
also both were mint condition. no box or anything just the camera itself. No scratches if anyone wanted to know. From the pics and In hand
Hi! What's this "My favorite FD body is Canon EF." thing in the end is, when there's not even video about it? That's just mean. :)
haha, soon enough.
@@graham_white still waiting for, come ooon.
@@OcakVideoFilm haha that video has been up for a while! ua-cam.com/video/TJLJdDw_ZwI/v-deo.html
Hey! I found you at my job. I assess used cameras for a repair and resale company. This really helped me get familiar with the differences in these, so thank you!
sounds like a rad job! glad it was helpful.
Hello, great video. Cant wait for your Canon EF video!
Thanks Karel!
The camera "rig" in the thumbnail looks like you're gonna do a benchmark test, whcih I'd really love to see. Exact same scene, different cameras, lenses, film comparison.
Ideally thats what I would have preferred to do. However These bodies haven't been serviced in who knows how long nor do I have the necessary tooling to make sure their shutter speeds etc are accurate so I can't guarantee the factory accuracy of any of them making a direct settings comparison very unreliable without spending a few hundred to have them all serviced and checked.
The Canon F-1 both original and New versions are the best Canon FD cameras. Professional build quality, all metal body, titanium shutter curtains and can last forever.
I have no doubt you’re correct. Just got one and getting ready to put it through it’s paces.
I just purchased a second F-1 body. More than four decades of pretty hard use and occasional carelessness was beginning to take its toll on the my first which was purchased new.
Both aperture priority and shutter priority are considered fully automatic exposure modes. Program mode makes certain assumptions about exposure that may or may not be true for certain subjects, and selects what if feels are optimum shutter and aperture. Unfortunately, the camera doesn't have a way of knowing whether you want a blurred motion effect, shallow depth of field, or maximum depth of field.
What all three of these cameras lacked was a manual metering mode. It certainly was, in my opinion the A-1's greatest shortcoming. Yes, you could use it as a manual camera where you set both aperture and shutter speeds, but you either need to use a separate meter, or some rule of thumb like the sunny sixteen rule.
The Canon FD lenses are excellent. They are light weight and offer excellent optical performance. They are inexpensive, readily available, and make it easy to build up a nice set of primes.
very true, I can't believe I forgot about the manual metering. thanks for adding this info.
Without wanting to introduce any debate on brands and models, I want to add some experiences with other cameras of the same characteristics and time period as the Canon A series. From 1976 Minolta introduced the XD model (XD11,XD7,XD depending on the market) It was the first SRL camera to have both the aperture priority and shutter priority mode as well as a mode called green that without calling it that is a kind of program mode which worked as follows. When in S mode and setting the dial to 1/125s (green mode) the camera tried to maintain a shutter speed of 1/125 and chose the appropriate aperture but could make shorter time changes if at the time of shooting it registered an OTF variation in the measured light compared to that measured before the shot. If the lens diaphragm was not in the A (automatic) position and one was chosen on the lens, the camera would try to maintain that minimum depth of field while changing the shutter speed if more light was required for that shot. Which made that camera a programmable program mode. Later that program was used in the X-700. In manual mode the XD displays the recommended and chosen speed as well as the aperture. The same can be done by the Minolta X-500 and the cheap X-300, but not the more famous X-700.
Great review thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi, thanks! Appreciate the video.
The A1 was a professional camera back then, while the AE1 was a Prosumer option, costing 3 times less.
The New F1 was the weather sealed brick you'd carry in a jungle in Borneo, the A1 was the electronic powerhouse for studio and jobs on the field, while the AE1 program was the capable camera that my kid could have operated, light but with enough function and professional lenses. Perfect second body.
the AE1 was che cheaper older option working side by side with the F1
I just got a A1 in really good condition and 3 lenses and a data back
Dang. Solid pickup!
This is the first time seeing your video and have subscribed. Thanks for explaining for us dummies.
Last week, I came across my AE1 Program and was well stored. Found battery dead and took two days to find a store that had it. However, my flash was non responsive.
It still had film in it, likely 20 yrs old and partially exposed. Having it processed as we speak. No telling what;s on it, if still good.
It has the std 50 mm lens, but I had bought a 28 mm Canon and a 200 mm zoom Sears lens.
New bat and seems to respond as new. Shot up the rest of the old film on the Christmas tree and Jupiter/Saturn conjunction. Can't wait for the 2 weeks to have film processed. That will tell me if to invest in more film. Film and processing has gotten stupid expensive since the old days!
I like your double exposure trick, but still don't understand the exposure button. The owner manual isn't that thorough.
Thanks, Mike
Haha thanks Michael! Although if your shooting planets I wouldn’t exactly call you a dummy. It sounds like you have a solid setup, glad I could help a bit. What don’t you understand about the exposure button? Hopefully that film turns out. It’s hit or miss when it’s been sitting in there for so long.
@@graham_white Thanks for the prompt response. I got my Vivitar 3500 to work, bad connections, however, the camera does not show the flash in the view finder and does not trigger the flash. The flash charge light comes on and will flash by the button.
A funny thing about someone else’s film that they left behind in a film SLR. I guess depending on your pov, you can take two different approaches. Either develop it to see the photos, or open the back, and deliberately expose and ruin the photos. When I’ve come across this situation after purchasing a film SLR camera from a thrift store, I’ve opted to expose and destroy the photos because I am concerned that there may be something inappropriate, sordid, bad or even evil or criminal in those photos and I wouldn’t want my lab to think I took those pictures. Just me, I guess.
Hi ! Nice video! Thanks so much
Thanks a lot!
AE-1 program was the replacement of the AE-1. A-1 was a different high end model. A-1 was radical in that you could choose between shutter and aperture priorities. A-1 was very expensive.
On other models the viewfinder cover was on the sling.
Thanks for sharing!
Great video, I'm looking for either the AE-1 or Program but never considered the A1 as I thought A1' was pre AE's.
prices on these in nice shape they went up a bit still awesome video
Quite a bit ha.
I've owned them all including an F1. And I'll tell you the A1 is my favorite. It's like a lighter version of the F1. The F1 was like a tank. Don't get me wrong. Great camera. But something about the A1 won me over. My A1 has been with me a long time now and it's a camera I will never get rid of
Thanks for sharing!
The A1 was ace. I have a squeaky one upstairs bought in Spring 1982.
Nice video ! And what about the AV-1 (aperture priority version) ?
Thanks !!
Thanks, the av-1 is Less known but still very good! Same body and mechanisms for the most part if I remember correctly
Great comparison, but a small correction, the buttons on the right of the lens are not exposure compensation, they are one for exposure check and the other is for AEL (auto exposure lock)
The A1 is definitely superior than the hyped AE-1 program
Words are hard 🤦♂️ thanks for correcting that’s a obvious one. And yeah totally agree.
And the biggest one on the bottom is not exposure check but depth of field check ;)
Informative video. I just picked up an A-1 with a 50mm 1.4 lens in mint condition for $40 at a yard sale. I'm not familiar with Canons but when I looked more closely I noticed the 1.4 lens and knew the camera had to be a good model. Sure enough. Now I'm in the process of doing my homework. Which is why I'm checking out your video. I found a PDF of the owner's manual online so I have some reading to do.
Nice! Always solid to find a 50 1.4 for sure
@@graham_white Well, it looks like it might not be the deal I thought. The camera is in mint condition, but it wasn't showing any electronic info in the viewfinder. The battery was dead so I replaced it but nothing has changed. I didn't notice any issue like corrosion with the battery compartment so I'm thinking of getting it serviced but not sure if it's worth it. Any suggestions?
@@mrxman581 could be. A service for that could be cheap or more than what the camera is worth. Other option is sell it on ebay "as is" or for parts with the info on whats wrong. usually someone will buy and fix and then you can get a working model.
@@graham_white Good suggestions. Thanks.
super helpful! Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
Wait what what? The Canon EF is an hybrid electro-mechanical shutter priority and manual mode camera. I just got another bone and I'm trying to figure out if the light meter works.
Correct for anything below like 1 second it requires a battery
Hi, I’ve been comparing for canon ae1 and Olympus om1(and om10 for the optional). Do u have any advise or recommendation?
They will all produce good photographs, really the best for you is the one you like the handling of and you can get at a fair price. Personally, out of the three, I like the OM1, the AE1 is fine if you can get a good one at a fair price and I would avoid the OM10, but even the OM10 will produce good results and you really will not see any difference in the final photographs.
AT-1 ... Lol. But honestly - best build quality and quietest operation of the group.
Still have yet to come across one but good to know
A1 and AE1 here...still working solid rock.
A1 is the first camera in the history that introdiced Av and Tv mode.
Other than the squeak that pops up and the crummy battery door, they are very reliable.
@@graham_white there's an easy fix for squeak, just a bit of machine oil via syringe will solve the issue.
Yeah many have battery door cracked, but I am lucky that on mine they still work great on both.
Seven. The number of Canon A-1s I currently own. All of them purchased within price ranges of $10 - $40. You can find these cameras cheap if you really look.
Lolol nice. I’ve had about 6 programs, sold 4. Sold 2 A1s also but still have several. Every time I see one below 60 I buy
@@graham_white they are so easy to find. And i live in Kentucky of all places.
Thanks for the great video. Serious urgent question. I need to choose one of the two: Canon A 1 and Nikon FE. What would you choose. I know it's not realistic question but I am newbie. Thanks again
If they are priced the same definitely the Nikon FE. more reliable, more lens options and overall I think a better camera. A 1 might have an extra feature or two (can't remember) but I think you will be much more happy with the FE
@@graham_white Thanks a lot. God bless !
You may consider the color reproduction of both cameras.
Canon produces warm pictures while Nikon produces more cooler pictures.
I still remember the Canon theme at that time.. from photograph to commitments
The Canon AE-1 was my first ever 35mm camera. I think it is still the biggest selling SLR ever!
Mine too, Martin!
nice vid. I currently own the A-1, it's new to me as I haven't shot with it yet but it seems to be a great camera. However, I'm with you on the EF. I miss my EF, it's a tank. I always thought it'd be cool to stip the paint and just let the brass age gracefully on that body.
…. That brass idea has me thinking now. That would be pretty rad looking. Thanks for sharing!
@@graham_white For sure. I would do it the A-1 I have but I hear its only "Metalized" plastic on the top and bottom covers and not solid brass like the EF. Apparently, you can strip the paint with a chem stripper, put the brass parts in a vinager bath for a bit just to get the "bright" off and then let mother nature take over from there. You can also use a toothpick and some model enamel to repaint the lettering, etc. I say go for it man, I'd love to see that video series.
I know you said to not get into a price war but I'm sorry, The AE-1P is clearly the most expensive out of the bunch as it is the most popular too. If you spend about 200-250 ish USD you can get a very mint example, the A-1 goes for a bit less and the AE-1 a bit less than that. If you find a AE-1P bundled with a 50 1.2 and with its original box, you're looking at 1000 USD or even more.
Did I saw the ae1p wasn’t the most expensive? If so I’m definitely wrong on that cause the program is the most expensive especially since it has that new beginner generation into it. THe A-1 I think is the best/ most features but yeah for sure the program is most. But again depending on condition you could find any of them more expensive or cheaper than the others. If you wanna go strictly by mint etc ya.
@@graham_white Yeah i agree, i want an A-1 in my collection as well as the AE-1P
The Canon AT-1 was my first SLR back in the day. Solid manual exposure rig. Wanted an A-1, but as a high schooler, it was out of my price range. A friend of mine recently gave me one. So fun to shoot!
If you’ve never shot a film camera, you may not appreciate, not only the conveniences of shooting different ISOs from one shot to another, you might also not appreciate the luxury of shooting a camera that has the capability of shooting in manual, shutter priority, aperture priority, AND program mode. LOL! Today’s digital cameras are just so advanced that they essentially shoot themselves.
So true. It really makes you step back and appreciate it.
I love the AT-1. It's SO much like the AE-1. Almost identical. And much better if you often want to over or under expose, the AE-1 is a pain and the AT-1 is great.
The A1 and the AE1 program should be a bit more reliable than the AE1 because the AE1 uses a long tungsten linkage wire that often frays and snaps with use and age. And once it eventually snaps the AE1 will stop functioning. Having that thread sized wire replaced is a very delicate and expensive repair!
I have not heard this bit of info before. Much appreciated for sharing!
Great video but to be honest when I first went into a camera shop in the late 80’s and tried Canon, Nikon, Pentax and Olympus. Out of the four I personally fell in love with the feel and handling of Nikon and apart from a little affair with Olympus Om1,2, 40 and 4 recently (2020).
To be fair any of the big four manufacturers make great well proven cameras, Its just up to what you prefer.
Another reason I have stuck with Nikon is that they made the decision when producing digital bodies to keep their F mount lens’.
I still use plenty of my AIS manual focus lenses on my D800 and D600 DSLR’s, some great glass.
Either way the body is purely a box to hold the film, its the photographer who makes an image!
Keep up the work, you have a great and interesting presentation style! 👍🏻
I agree personally I’m my go to is the Nikon F2. Basically bulletproof and will never let you down. And I’ve been fortunate enough to gather a rather nice Nikon lineup. But it’s nice to experiment with the big 4 like you said and luckily they are at a price point where it’s easy to buy and sell without really losing money or taking a big hit. And agree! The body only gets you so far.
Going a little more in detail about the AE-1 Program ...
If this camera is offering a Program-Mode - that tells us that the camera is looking for the right aperture and time - why is it NOT offering an aperture-priority mode ??
The electronic inside must be able to handle automatic time-changing because that in necessary in Program-Mode anyway !!
Perhaps it's possible to shoot in aperture-priority by choosing "program" an time-wheel ... and setting your aperture manually ??
you would think so but unfortunately it doesn't work that way.
@@graham_white In that case i'll buy an A-1 instead of the AE-1 Program. Shame on Canon not being able to offer a mode that is already used internal on this camera !!
@@oliverweber6842 ha. It's just like companies today, they could easily incorporate all their features in to one product but instead they offer 5 products so you have to pick and choose and buy multiple.
thanks for your videos! they are very useful for me :D
Thanks! Glad to hear it
I had the AE-1P and it was so weird (after all my Pentaxes) that I just sold it. I mean not seeing the actual shutter speed selected by the camera. I started looking into A-1, but after this review looks like I'm staying Pentax lol. How come Canon designed such an odd control for the Av mode? in Pentax and Nikon you just change the aperture on the lens and keep shooting.
Is is very odd, especially not changing the aperture on the actual lens but using a little dial attached to the shutter speed. Definitely not my favorite setup but I do prefer it out of these 3.
@@graham_white I would have the same preference if somebody asked me which one of these three is better :)
A very useful video thanks !
Glad to hear it!
i have a canon AE-1 PROGRAM camera and i is in really great shape too and it also has a 50 mm lens to . i would love to get another lens for it but what would look for ? anything that would say canon ae-1 ?
You need FD lenses. That’s the mount type for most of canons line at that time
@@graham_white thank you very much
🤔 interesting...
I got a
AT-1
AV-1
And a EF (big artillery) all Canon analog Cameras, i like them all .
But if i had to chose only One i would take my Canon EF all analog ,NO auto, you make all the options and I like that.
100% agree
Nice video! Thanks man!
Thanks Chaco, glad it was helpful!
The canon EF is not a fully mechanical camera, it has a hybrid copal shutter, it needs batteries for speeds from 2 to 30 seconds and also for its use in shutter priority mode 😉
correct. Went over that in my EF vid. I mean you don't need a battery to operate the camera unless you want added features or long exposure speeds which most people would never use.
Great video man, thanks for all the info!
Hi Graham! Been binge watching a few of your videos recently and wanting to get into film. At the moment I'm torn between a Canon EF and an A-1, both of which I've already found good offers for (especially the A-1), which is the better camera for a beginner like me?
Thanks for the support! For a beginner I would think the A-1 is the better option. it can be a bit confusing at first to figure out settings but it offers several automatic features so you can focus on composition and nailing focus. The EF is fully manual except for speeds slower than 1 second and personally my favorite of the two but you have to manually determine your settings for proper exposure.
Do you think the ae-1 camera is teenager friendly? I’m not very tech savvy. But it seems pretty simple.
One of the friendliest you can get. Simple point and click features with options to advance settings as you gain confidence.
how about AV-1, What do these three cameras look like?
In another way, if I have AV-1 is it enough, and there is no need to buy any of these three units ?
No need to switch from the av-1 or at-1 unless there is a specific setting you want from one of these three
Bought myself an AE-1 and an A-1, but also got myself an AV-1 and an AT-1.
Honestly, I think the AV-1 and AT-1 are two models in the series that people often overlook. One's got full aperture-priority and the other's got full manual control. Both amazing alternatives.
For sure overlooked. They have basically no name recognition today in comparison to these three. Also much less popular to find thrifting etc since compared they sold a ton more ae-1 series
Would you recommend the A1 in 2022 for $150 usd?
The program still goes for $200+ and technically the A-1 is the better camera. It’s a high price but it’s not outrageous. There are definitely still deals to be found under that price point depending on your location
I’m a little confused on how the camera chooses the aperture? you don’t move the dial on the lens for aperture?
There is an “A” on the lens aperture. When you rotate to that by pressing the little button in the same ring (If the camera has a compatible setting) it tells the camera to choose the aperture. Of course some older model lenses like the “A” setting I believe.
@@graham_white thank you!
I have a question 🙋♂️ is the ae-1/ ae-1 program without the battery, only takes away the light meter like other cameras?
Unfortunately no 😒 without a battery you can’t use the camera at all
I suspect the viewfinder shutter is not for light leak on the film but for the potential of light entering the finder affecting AE metering when eye isn’t blocking viewfinder. I think daylight use of self-timer with AE would be a use case?
Very true. Although I could see it being useful for long exposures at night where you may have a flashlight or something behind the camera and that shutter is open for a long time. Probably useful for both I would think.
Very true. Although I could see it being useful for long exposures at night where you may have a flashlight or something behind the camera and that shutter is open for a long time. Probably useful for both I would think.
For long exposures on most cameras I’d think it would only matter before shutter is tripped when metering is being done as the exposure time had been determined by then. Exception would be a few camera like Pentax LX that measures light reflecting off the film during exposure. I think there may be an Olympus that can do this too.