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I have a 1995 Chevrolet c 1500, 2wd and I'm having some serious braking issues. When I press the brake pedal the truck attaches to the left then snatches to the right then kinda clears up. I cant figure out what is causing this. It has newer calipers on it those were done maybe 4-5 months ago
Hi Scotty, does the big fan count as an item used in this video? It's a lot like a small fan only bigger! (Seinfeld reference- the big salad vs. small salad at the diner scene). Thanks Scotty!
I had this problem with my Subaru, I just googled the issue and decided it was the warped rotors so I changed both front rotors and problem solved. I'm glad Scotty finally uploaded a diy video , haven't seen one in a while.
I love watching these tutorials and free advice videos! I don’t see why some people hate on you when you just give advice on how to make a car last longer. You’ve definitely helped me out since I just started driving and have to do most repairs or service on my own.
Scotty is legendary, from sense of humor to obviously his knowledge. I hope you read this and realize truly how much of an impact you've done for everyone who tunes in. Cheers from TX
You're my favorite mechanic to watch on UA-cam, BUT I noticed something you did not do that I always do and I NEVER have anybody come back saying something squeels, sticks, and rattles. And that is clean and relube the caliper slides. You could argue that it doesn't need done everytime, it's just preventative maintenance and a quick step above and beyond what 99 percent of mechanics do! Lol I can't tell you how many time I talk to people who got their brakes done and I meet them and they find out I do brakes and they always say they have a grinding and 9 times out of 10 it's caliper slides. Just something I do! And still a great video Scotty!
Oh yeah. Right on bruddah. If those sliders stick or jam -- especially on the Toyota -- you may find yourself with a dangerously low brake pedal. Clean and grease those sliders.
Don’t forget to depress the brake pedal a couple of times BEFORE driving off - it can be very embarrassing when you run to something or someone because you have no brakes
I haven't warped a rotor in over a decade, even with heavy duty use. Buy quality parts & USE A TORQUE WRENCH on your lugs EVERY TIME! If its going in the shop, insist they torque lugs to spec before they even begin. Oh & dont forget to "rev up" (pump) your brakes before you drive away after a brake job so you don't warp your car. Like this comment so more people hopefully see it.
ironyofshaun I would imagine it would be automatic to pump the brakes after replacement. Wouldn’t it be natural to do it when you first step on them and they go to the floor? How could someone not do it?
@@luptonpittman6520 Someone in a hurry, a porter at the dealership I worked at did it. It was a manual transmission vehicle. Porter got into the car, started it, released the hand brake & drove away never touching the service brake till he needed it at the other side of the shop.
@@MrSamadolfo Yes everyone has a version of good & tight, including a person with little experience trying to save a buck, perhaps like the core audience of this video. A torque wrench can be had for cheap & should be a staple for any beginner. People with experience can do just what you said.
Thanks Scotty, I had an issue with a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM GT. The front brake rotors would warp after a month or two service. After doing some research I bought a pair of drilled and slotted rotors and never had the problem again.
Good video. Only thing missing is that before compressing the caliber you need to open the brake fluid reservoir to allow for back pressure. It makes pressing it a lot easier when you aren't fighting the pressure. Also lubricate the caliber slider pin since it's out now, a lot of rotor damage happen when the pins aren't sliding properly and wearing the rotor unevenly.
@@GG-ml3vr Well actually it is Caliuper from the french word Kaluapour or Calpor coined in Plage de Saleccia Provence just after the treaty of Verdun in 843 which split the Frankish Empire into 3 parts.
Just a couple of pointers. One sometimes it isn’t necessary to replace rotors when they can be spun with a lathe so long as it does not exceed or meet its minimum thickness, however still highly recommend replacing brake pads. Next if your going to replace the brake pads when you plan on depressing the pistons inwards it’s a good idea to remove the brake reservoir filler cap as it can make pushing the pistons in a lot easier and minimizes the chance of damaging the master brake cylinder. Just my thoughts.
Already did all of this and will be replacing some rotors and got a mechanics dial to confirm it. It's just good to see I'm doing the same thing the same way as the guys who know what they are doing. You almost always seem to know what I need to do, either just after I did it or a few days before I have to go do it. Thanks for saving me a load of money on repairs!
Great video Scotty. As usual very well explained and educational. Your better off with a magnetic dial indicator. But you and most people reading this already know this. One other thing. If the Vehicle is equipped with rear drums . Even if you just installed new drums and shoes. If the star wheel adjuster isn't adjusted properly. When you apply the brakes, the pedal will pulsate. It's very easily missed. This is the same procedure for emergency parking brake shoes for vehicles that use rear disc with the parking brakes shoes located on the inside of the rotor . And I have to mention. I love your take on Lexus. New vehicles in general have gone down hill. I'm a proud owner of a 2003 Lexus GS 300 and it's an amazing luxury vehicle. Little maintenance will take you a long way. Also the GS 400 and 430 are also gems. These were almost 80k back in the day. Now you can find one under 200,000klm for under 7k. I could go on and on about these. Your getting a lot for your money.
This video is worked for my car. Turn the rotor cost $15 each., replace with new brake pad. It fix the steering wheel shake when braking. Thanks for the video.
It's Rotor time ! I used drilled and slotted replacement rotors, works great and last long time. Dad told me to take the top off the break master cylinder too because when you're pressing those calipers back in break fluid will be going back into the reservoir and depending how long since the last time you messed with the break system you may have some over flow.
I have had an instance where this guide would run me into never ending repairs. Repair shops took me through the cleaners several times to replace rotors. The shaking would go away but come back within 5000 miles. I was fed up with their solutions so I started looking into the issue. I wasn't racing so my rotors shouldn't have warped that quickly. I replaced 1 component deeper. It turned out that one of my driven hub bearing assemblies was slightly bent. This gave the illusion that the problem was fixed as your caliper will float a bit but the issue quickly returned. After replacing the hubs I had no issue for 20,000 miles when i sold the car. One thing to add is that this was a used car and i had no knowledge of any impact which may have damaged the hubs.
I also found it very helpful to grind down the surface of the wheel hub before the new brake disc comes on. Otherwise it could be that rust / dirt will lead to the same unbalance when the disc is heated. The surface of the wheel hub can be cleaned with a wire brush or fine sand paper to remove any dirt that may have formed.
As a machinist, it did my heart proud to see you doing the transfer of reference using the ol' outside caliper. I just did rotors, pads, and new bearing on the Aerostar.
@@DominiAeternumIt depends on your style of driving and braking really. The harder you tend to brake while driving the more wear there will be on your pads/rotors due to increased friction between the two causing them to wear away faster.
ClusterHeadSurvivor Many times I have seen rust under or behind the rubber slider sleeves. When the rubber is in place, it is being squashed by the rust bubbles, thus squeezing the pin while its inside the rubber sleeve. This will cause uneven resistance between the top pin and bottom pin which will cause a shutter.
🤓 yes i posted a comment on it, its so easy, dont b F lazy, pull off boots and pins, inspect clean replace, relube only with clear nonreacting 'Silicone Grease' and install, make sure when u finish that the pin slides freely in & out, thats how she likes it! 😍😂
When pressing the brake calipers don't forget to remove the top cover of the brake fluid reservoir temporary. This is to release the brake fluid pressure in the brake line when the fluid starts to flow back into the brake fluid reservoir. Put cover back on after all calipers have been pressed.
Great stuff. But you missed an in picture opportunity at 2:35 when you said "whack it from the back side". And you are heading for 2 million...go for it.
Wow, glad I came across this video. My rotors are definitely warped! Was on the highway yesterday going 70 mph, and as I started braking heading for an exit the whole front of my car was rumbling a lot! I thought the wheels were gonna fall off!😰
Slow down ahead of time so that you are already down to 50 mph when exiting. You are wasting gasoline. I don’t even brake to take the exit. Just make sure there is no car behind you.
I had to find Smokey Yunnick's post in an OLD Popular Mechanics magazine to fix this vibrating steering while braking on my1995 Ford Windstar. The dealership could not fix the problem for any longer than a drive home. It turns out that the stud nuts must be HAND TORQUED to 90 ft-lbs in at least 3 steps. Solves the problem every time. So I had to TEACH the local Ford Dealership since they were the only ones I would let touch my baby. The 2000 Windatar is not so sensitive but the effect is still there if they use their impact-driver brake sticks to torque the lug nuts. Lately I am driving a 2010 Fusion Sport and the problem is still there so if it acts up on a long trip I just pull into the nearest KalTire store and get the wheel nuts re-torqued evenly to 100ft-lbs. Makes a heck of a difference immediately. Many thanks to Smokey Yunnick and Popular Mechanics. I thought you needed to know.
Hey Scotty! I also want to point out. At times it can be your wheel pressure and alignment! Whenever my tires start to get lower that little shake can show up. But if I go a while without an alignment I definitely have the shakes at high-speed breaking. Just my 2 cents!
that was a smooth change, I am thinking of doing it to my car next time when I change the brake rotors and pads. that was the easiest and fastest brake change video I have seen, didn't see a lot but that was good enough to show you how to do it yourself....
Don't forget to pump the brakes until they firm back up with the car running BEFORE you drive off. A friend of mine forgot that simple thing and his wife drove through our other friend's shop garage door when the car wouldn't stop. $600 garage door repair. Expensive brake job there!
One of the big reasons why rotors warp is overtorquing the lug nuts and/or torquing them unevenly. Always use a correctly set torque wrench when putting on your lug nuts, and always re-torque the nuts if you ever have your car serviced/inspected by a mechanic and wheels had to be removed.
I used to go to one place they torqued them down by hand. The also balanced the tires on the car, they don't remove them, it makes for a really smooth ride. the place had a lot of old timers working there.
I second the brake caliper kit, best $20 I've ever spent and I just recently got it after doing brakes for 30 years !!! Some much easier than using a screwdriver and old brake bad, screwing ends up slipping and ripping the caliper piston boot - just get one!
You are the greatest Scotty!!! I've had my 2000 f-350 for 18 years now and I've gone thru 5 sets of front rotors. The Best set I got was 10 yrs ago at NAPA, they were made in Illinois I believe, "American Made" they were the BEST!!! But it's just hard to keep rotors on the front of these heavy trucks. As always GREAT VIDEOS my good friend, God Bless you always!!! ☆Jay.
For retracting the caliper we just take the brake fluid cap off, and use one of the old brake pads and a big clamp to clamp the brake pad to retract the caliper and that works great for anyone without the kit!!
THANK YOU! All these years I have diy my brakes I did not know , was shown by any source or read anywhere to put antisqueel grease on the mating ends of the pads. Now I know for next time.
Ah, yes, but something i think most DIY people forget is always check too if your rotors are NOT the same that rolled off the factory floor, had a buddy of mine still have his from 04, granted the car was a hand me down, low miles, but still took a good beating and CLR to get them suckers off
Important demonstration of what you're getting for what is often north of $700.00 at a service center, when getting brakes done. This process needs about 15min per side, when the mechanic is organized, and has the right tools and parts at the ready.
Having him saves her thousands and thousands of dollars so I bet she won’t care. Probably Scotty will find something while working that’s needs replacing and will do it on the spot.
Informative and entertaining...great video...I’ve been looking for an answer to my cars shakey brake syndrome...and as an Uber driver videos like this helps me save money...not to mention that you actually gave good advise on where to get the tools cheap...awesome video
Really good video, Scotty! Now off to convince the wife to let me replace the rotors in her car :) A couple of questions: 1 - Speaking of breaking, is it true that if you're about to hit a pothole, you should never hit the brakes? 2 - What do you think about the tools sold by Harbor Freight to work on cars? I see some of them so cheap, but I wonder about their durability. Thanks! William from Connecticut
Yes, release the brake pedal just before hitting a bump. It reduces stress on the front suspension and the rear. Some HF tools are durable. I have two 1/2" air impact wrenches that are probably 25 years old. I don't use them that often but they still work. I also buy impact sockets there.
@@julied915 Hi julie, I just saw the notification. I'm in NC so I can't recommend anyone. Don't go to the dealer. Go to a brake shop. Depending on what needs to be replaced it could get expensive. Many owners just change out the brake pads if there is no vibration when braking. If the rotors need replacing it will cost a lot more.
Folks, please DO NOT tighten the wheel nuts with an air gun or you run the risk of warping the new rotors. Always use a torque wrench set to manufacturer's specifications to tighten wheel nuts. Scotty is a professional mechanic and he knows how much to tighten wheel nuts with an air gun since he's probably done it thousands of times.
No one ever mentions how worn power steering rack bushings can also cause loose steering and vibration while driving. The entire rack floats side to side because of worn bushings.
What I like to do is open the master cylinder before compressing the brakes, so that pressure doesn't build up in the lines. Not sure if you just didn't show it or if you know something I don't know. I'm 1/1000 the mechanic you are, and I love watching your videos.
Brake rotors do not warp from heat, even when driven by the most aggressive driver. Instead, they wear unevenly. ... The problem of pedal vibration, incorrectly called rotor warp, occurs 3,000 to 5,000 miles after the brake or tire change
Scotty.....congratulations.....one of the few people that uses the OLD brake pads as a cushion for retracting the caliper piston. While the d rotor is off is the best time to clean up the rotor hub. I use a sanding wheel attached to end of a drill. Remove the rust, fort etc and make a nice clean, smooth surface for the new rotors to mate to. A small coating of brake cleaner will also help to remove dirt and rust. Different people might challenge this step but I put a small coating of Anti-Seize to the rotor hub especially the lip around the drive axle retaking but. Should make it a bit easier to remove rotors next time. This should go without saying and basic common sense but you would probably be surprised how many people forget this step. If you even remotely suspect that the vehicle might need new brake pads, rotors or both............... Buy the new equipment first. Keep the new rotors, pads and hardware close by to prevent another trip to the parts retailer...(A/Z, Advance Auto, O’Reillys etc.....especially. critical of the vehicle is your only mode of transportation. If the new pads and rotors are not needed return for refund, simple as that Don’t forget to check the caliper slide pins. For most vehicles this is what the caliper mounting bolt is threaded to. Only takes another couple of minutes. I personally remove the pin, clean off grease, check condition and put a new coating of fresh brake grease. For most vehicles at least the ones I have ever worked the grease is the same type that you apply to the brake pad. Spray some brake cleaner keep a Q-Tip or pipe cleaner to remove as much of the old grease as possible. The rust preventative coating applied to the rotor may be black. Only remove the coating for the part of the rotor where the new brake pads will contact. The rest of the coating is exactly that. Rust Preventative so you want the majority of the coating to remain. As usual Scotty.....another good informative video. Sometimes your videos get slightly long winded but you make the point. I After cleaning and
☺️ I was thinking, not everyone is in Houston, maybe we cud make meet ups in certain city to help the noobs out with their cars, its sometimes alot harder than what u see in videos, some people need mentors like an aprenticeship, i wish i had that when i was growing up 😇🤠
What about the spring/shock bolts that hold the calipers on?? U need to make sure they "spring" in and out freely before tightening them. They have small notches in them to let air out and prevent air locks.
I usually bleed and flush the brake fluid when replacing pads cause the wheel is off and easier to remember when it was done. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so the boiling point goes down with age. I do it every 2 years. Cheap insurance. Additionally if you have and it protects the sensors. Keep the videos coming Scotty. Very educational and saves me money.👍 Appreciate you🏆
You obviously havent watched to many of scottys videos. He rarley does anything right. but people watch his videos and he makes millions off them. I agree that you cant check runout the way he does. but he also says he has a 500 dollar micrometer.
Hey Scott, thanks for great knowledge. Please when next you have to spray something in front of the fan, it's best to back the fan when spraying so the fumes are blown away from you not towards you. Just a lil safety precaution. Thanks once again for the great work. Much love.
Scotty at 4:40 my Honda Civic manual (and perhaps others) says during brake pad replacement to swap the caliper hold pins so that they wear evenly over time. Also to ensure the boot is instact and fully greased (you kinda skipped over that part!).
Ha ha! That's a Pittsburgh jack from Harbor Freight. I hope you used a 20% off coupon to get it. If I didn't already have a floor jack, I would get one of those. And use a 20% coupon.
I had this problem with my Honda after my Rotors were turned, went to the Honda Dealer and they told me the correct way to fix this on my Honda was to turn the Rotors while they are on the car, they have a special machine for that.
There is some guy who races cars that claims 99% of brake vibration is simply an uneven spot of brake pad deposit on the rotor. He claims he's very seldom seen a true warped, out of shape rotor. Not sure wether this is in a racing setting but some simple high G force stops from say 50mph to almost stopping, like one does when bedding in a new rotors, would remove the deposit. Interesting and my current rotors are somewhat "warped", only really feel it under hardish breaking down some of our mountain passes here in CO so I need to see if his theory is correct :)
Scotty, from one old mechanic to another I have to disagree with you on this. First, you show measuring parallelism of the rotor. If the parallelism is out your get a brake pedal that pulses, moves up and down under foot pressure while driving. If you want to check for warpage you would need a dial indicator. Warped rotors happen when uneven lug nut tightening is done, even over tightening does not cause this but the difference in torque between lugs when putting on the wheel. At first this does not cause a problem but as the rotor heats and cools it hardens just like sword makers harden swords by heating and cooling the metal. Under normal conditions this hardening does not cause a problem but if the rotor is warped this causes the rotor to be hard in spots. As the brakes are applied the brake pads move from a hard spot to a softer spot in the rotor as this does the pads grab better the softer spots on the rotor and grab less in the harder spots. In other words the coeffiction of friction changes though out the rotor face causing the pads to grab and slide across the rotor face.
😒 In theory I agree with you, but for the noobs looking at this video i recommend they dont waste their time measuring anything, I recommend just going to the auto parts store and picking up premium rotors and premium ceramic pads, hardware, silicone lube, brake grease, etc, and get to work Chop Chop 😒🚗
I had my front discs replaced on my Land Rover Discovery 3 with the Chinese made discs. They squeaked from the start. I changed the pads, problem remained. Couldn't figure it out for months. Noticed my miles per gallon had dropped by 10. Then, out of the blue, Mr Google Algo , suggested your video. Yes, I had noticed ever so slight shaking in steering wheel when I breaked. So I got the genuine front discs instead and hey presto, miles per gallon went from 27 to 37.1! That means I will be making fuel savings of 15 yo-yos per week. Which means the cheap discs I had installed in the first place would have cost double the genuine discs had I not replaced them. Thank you Scotty!!!!
May I just say to the first timers or the inexperienced: Don't think because you viewed this video, you can just go and fix the brakes on your particular vehicle. This is only an example, performed by an experienced professional.
Absolutely right. This is a time consuming. Especially if you doing this for the first time. You have to learn how to take these brakes and calipers off. It does get challenging. One rotor might take you about 1hr., or 2hr.
I guess what we have here is your average Texas break job! In the Northeast when you have lots of road salt and calcium chloride eating away and swelling up your disc brake rotor and the hub getting the rotor off is going to be a new adventure. It usually takes a torch in a much larger hammer to get those rotors off. Once the rotors are off you have to clean the hub underneath which is usually heavily rusted. After cleaning the hub then use a dial-indicator to make sure the hub is straight before installing the new rotor and then proceed as the video goes. Scotty It may be a good idea for all of those people in the rest of the country in the salt belt to give them a heads up...
Check if your rims are bent or damaged. That happened to me I put the damaged rim on the back of the car took the back rim put it on the front of the car. Didn’t shake anymore it’s a quick fix until you get a new rim or rims. Hitting potholes or a curb will bend rims or damage them
Make sure you follow these steps quickly to give time to brake on time. Put your right foot in before braking. Then take your right foot out. Then put your right foot in, and then brake. Then do the hokey pokey
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I have a 1995 Chevrolet c 1500, 2wd and I'm having some serious braking issues. When I press the brake pedal the truck attaches to the left then snatches to the right then kinda clears up. I cant figure out what is causing this. It has newer calipers on it those were done maybe 4-5 months ago
YoDood: I just did, this is a repair video, and I have over 500 repair Videos on the channel covering almost everything related to car repair
Thank you Scotty. I've learned so much from your videos. Greetings from a non disclosed country in south America
Hi Scotty, does the big fan count as an item used in this video? It's a lot like a small fan only bigger! (Seinfeld reference- the big salad vs. small salad at the diner scene). Thanks Scotty!
The brake pads you linked are not the ones you used in the video
Scotty. Paint the caliper red. It will help and improve your braking. Also it will show others you mean business.
plus 10 hp per caliper
Add a spoiler and get an instant 30 Hp, the bigger it is the more you gain....this is common knowledge lol
A turbo sticker on rear trunk lid adds 350 extra horsepower.
@@thinkingimpaired5663 now you're talking! That's what up... mad gains.🤣
i know barely anything about cars and when he toko the caliper off im like hmm maybe i can paint mine LOL
I solved the problem by just not breaking anymore.
You can also just throw it in reverse
I just go off roading GTA style through my neighbors backyard. That way there's no traffic to break for.
When you're going 100kmph and your brakes don't work, just rip up the handbrake and you'll come to a stop really quick.
No response from you, so I reckon you've gone to live underground with The Resident.
deasttn OMG 💀💀
I had this problem with my Subaru, I just googled the issue and decided it was the warped rotors so I changed both front rotors and problem solved. I'm glad Scotty finally uploaded a diy video , haven't seen one in a while.
I love watching these tutorials and free advice videos! I don’t see why some people hate on you when you just give advice on how to make a car last longer. You’ve definitely helped me out since I just started driving and have to do most repairs or service on my own.
Scotty is legendary, from sense of humor to obviously his knowledge.
I hope you read this and realize truly how much of an impact you've done for everyone who tunes in.
Cheers from TX
You're my favorite mechanic to watch on UA-cam, BUT I noticed something you did not do that I always do and I NEVER have anybody come back saying something squeels, sticks, and rattles. And that is clean and relube the caliper slides. You could argue that it doesn't need done everytime, it's just preventative maintenance and a quick step above and beyond what 99 percent of mechanics do! Lol
I can't tell you how many time I talk to people who got their brakes done and I meet them and they find out I do brakes and they always say they have a grinding and 9 times out of 10 it's caliper slides.
Just something I do! And still a great video Scotty!
Oh yeah. Right on bruddah. If those sliders stick or jam -- especially on the Toyota -- you may find yourself with a dangerously low brake pedal. Clean and grease those sliders.
@@nicholasbeck7670 yes sliding pins should be lubricated, if they stick uneven wear and poor braking can occur.
Don’t forget to depress the brake pedal a couple of times BEFORE driving off - it can be very embarrassing when you run to something or someone because you have no brakes
I was going to say that, don't forget to press the brake pedal a few times until you get resistance! Scotty might want to add it to the video! :-)
I forgot that part once. I was doing a Pitstop style brake change. Whoops
What you said is embarassingly funny😅
@@bansheemania1692 that's how i do my brakes, just want it over with. I remember to pump them though before i drive off.
😂 yup i forget to do that most of the time! 😏🔥🔥🔥
Your use of graphics is friggin' magnificent as always. Perfect combination of funny and educational. You can't go wrong with Scotty!
I'm going to leave my warped rotors on my car, it's like a massage chair every time I slow down.
I haven't warped a rotor in over a decade, even with heavy duty use. Buy quality parts & USE A TORQUE WRENCH on your lugs EVERY TIME! If its going in the shop, insist they torque lugs to spec before they even begin. Oh & dont forget to "rev up" (pump) your brakes before you drive away after a brake job so you don't warp your car. Like this comment so more people hopefully see it.
😒 meh I just put em on good and tight, evenly, they dont have to be on that tight anyways
ironyofshaun I would imagine it would be automatic to pump the brakes after replacement. Wouldn’t it be natural to do it when you first step on them and they go to the floor? How could someone not do it?
@@luptonpittman6520 Someone in a hurry, a porter at the dealership I worked at did it. It was a manual transmission vehicle. Porter got into the car, started it, released the hand brake & drove away never touching the service brake till he needed it at the other side of the shop.
@@MrSamadolfo Yes everyone has a version of good & tight, including a person with little experience trying to save a buck, perhaps like the core audience of this video. A torque wrench can be had for cheap & should be a staple for any beginner. People with experience can do just what you said.
@@ironyofshaun 🤓 yup sounds good
Don't be fooled, Scotty's wife still has to pay him to get her car fixed.
😅😅😅😅😅
That's a lot of sandwiches
Damn, I'm glad I'm not married !!
Yea, she pays him to fix her car with his money :))
@@tuyhoaphuyen3412 out one pocket into the other
Thanks Scotty, I had an issue with a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM GT. The front brake rotors would warp after a month or two service. After doing some research I bought a pair of drilled and slotted rotors and never had the problem again.
Damn Scotty, brake job in five minutes. You make these shops look bad. I spend all day waiting for them just to take the wheel off!
Wth? I didn't wait up to 15mins for that
I earned my ASE certification from Scotty Kilmer on UA-cam
Good luck proving that to your customer
sonyviva308 it was a joke lol
😍 yup Master Certified 😍
What?
@@vinsonho1837 Came back to see what's going on here. Oh I was a straight head before this lmao
Good video. Only thing missing is that before compressing the caliber you need to open the brake fluid reservoir to allow for back pressure. It makes pressing it a lot easier when you aren't fighting the pressure. Also lubricate the caliber slider pin since it's out now, a lot of rotor damage happen when the pins aren't sliding properly and wearing the rotor unevenly.
Don’t take your car to a UA-cam mechanic.
Not true. The brake fluid reservoir cap is not sealed. I agree lubricating the caliber slider pin.
You know its a calliper right?
So true, if your worried about back pressure, your compressing piston too fast causing damage that Scotty clearly warned about.@@cbrrebates
@@GG-ml3vr Well actually it is Caliuper from the french word Kaluapour or Calpor coined in Plage de Saleccia Provence just after the treaty of Verdun in 843 which split the Frankish Empire into 3 parts.
Scotty is the uncle I never had who knows every damn thing to know about car repair. Thanks uncle Scotty
This dude makes the best videos ever. Probably the only michanic I'd ever actually trust.
Just a couple of pointers. One sometimes it isn’t necessary to replace rotors when they can be spun with a lathe so long as it does not exceed or meet its minimum thickness, however still highly recommend replacing brake pads. Next if your going to replace the brake pads when you plan on depressing the pistons inwards it’s a good idea to remove the brake reservoir filler cap as it can make pushing the pistons in a lot easier and minimizes the chance of damaging the master brake cylinder. Just my thoughts.
Already did all of this and will be replacing some rotors and got a mechanics dial to confirm it. It's just good to see I'm doing the same thing the same way as the guys who know what they are doing. You almost always seem to know what I need to do, either just after I did it or a few days before I have to go do it. Thanks for saving me a load of money on repairs!
Great video Scotty. As usual very well explained and educational. Your better off with a magnetic dial indicator. But you and most people reading this already know this. One other thing. If the Vehicle is equipped with rear drums . Even if you just installed new drums and shoes. If the star wheel adjuster isn't adjusted properly. When you apply the brakes, the pedal will pulsate. It's very easily missed. This is the same procedure for emergency parking brake shoes for vehicles that use rear disc with the parking brakes shoes located on the inside of the rotor . And I have to mention. I love your take on Lexus. New vehicles in general have gone down hill. I'm a proud owner of a 2003 Lexus GS 300 and it's an amazing luxury vehicle. Little maintenance will take you a long way. Also the GS 400 and 430 are also gems. These were almost 80k back in the day. Now you can find one under 200,000klm for under 7k. I could go on and on about these. Your getting a lot for your money.
This video is worked for my car. Turn the rotor cost $15 each., replace with new brake pad. It fix the steering wheel shake when braking. Thanks for the video.
What do you mean turn the rotor
It's Rotor time ! I used drilled and slotted replacement rotors, works great and last long time. Dad told me to take the top off the break master cylinder too because when you're pressing those calipers back in break fluid will be going back into the reservoir and depending how long since the last time you messed with the break system you may have some over flow.
Or bust a line
Your Dad neglected to tell you how to spell brake. Break means something completely different.
🤓 usually the reservoir isnt full so there should be space to fill up, just in case put a bunch of rags around the reservoir 😏
I have had an instance where this guide would run me into never ending repairs. Repair shops took me through the cleaners several times to replace rotors. The shaking would go away but come back within 5000 miles. I was fed up with their solutions so I started looking into the issue. I wasn't racing so my rotors shouldn't have warped that quickly. I replaced 1 component deeper. It turned out that one of my driven hub bearing assemblies was slightly bent. This gave the illusion that the problem was fixed as your caliper will float a bit but the issue quickly returned. After replacing the hubs I had no issue for 20,000 miles when i sold the car. One thing to add is that this was a used car and i had no knowledge of any impact which may have damaged the hubs.
I also found it very helpful to grind down the surface of the wheel hub before the new brake disc comes on. Otherwise it could be that rust / dirt will lead to the same unbalance when the disc is heated.
The surface of the wheel hub can be cleaned with a wire brush or fine sand paper to remove any dirt that may have formed.
Okay Scotty won’t take you as a customer. You can do it yourself since you know about brakes. You are right about what you wrote.
As a machinist, it did my heart proud to see you doing the transfer of reference using the ol' outside caliper. I just did rotors, pads, and new bearing on the Aerostar.
Can rotors get warped in less than a year? From bad or stuck pins?
@@DominiAeternumIt depends on your style of driving and braking really. The harder you tend to brake while driving the more wear there will be on your pads/rotors due to increased friction between the two causing them to wear away faster.
Great pieces of advice Scott. Salute from Morocco! I'm a great fan.
hello and thanks for the support!
We love Morocco! Peace!
If you would only know how corrupt and sick the goverment and there dog of a king is you would be discusted of morocco.
Ilias Vamos You may be right, I am just talking about the people! I don,t know anything about the king!
Thank you for the information. My Toyota Camry started to shake at high speed when I brake.
Great time to inspect and lubricate caliper slider pins, Excellent video Scott
ClusterHeadSurvivor Many times I have seen rust under or behind the rubber slider sleeves. When the rubber is in place, it is being squashed by the rust bubbles, thus squeezing the pin while its inside the rubber sleeve. This will cause uneven resistance between the top pin and bottom pin which will cause a shutter.
🤓 yes i posted a comment on it, its so easy, dont b F lazy, pull off boots and pins, inspect clean replace, relube only with clear nonreacting 'Silicone Grease' and install, make sure when u finish that the pin slides freely in & out, thats how she likes it! 😍😂
Any other extremely useful tips?
When pressing the brake calipers don't forget to remove the top cover of the brake fluid reservoir temporary. This is to release the brake fluid pressure in the brake line when the fluid starts to flow back into the brake fluid reservoir. Put cover back on after all calipers have been pressed.
Rev up your shaky car! 🚗💨💨💨
Alpha Macho LMFAOOOOOO
Lol
That's DAMN FUNNY,LMAO.
Does your car shake when you fart lol
My 98 year old grandma has a shaky end
I just use a 10.00 C clamp from harbor freight to retract the caliper. It works just as well. Scotty still knows his stuff so people listen to him.
So glad to have you Scotty ! 🖖
Great stuff. But you missed an in picture opportunity at 2:35 when you said "whack it from the back side". And you are heading for 2 million...go for it.
Wow, glad I came across this video. My rotors are definitely warped! Was on the highway yesterday going 70 mph, and as I started braking heading for an exit the whole front of my car was rumbling a lot! I thought the wheels were gonna fall off!😰
This just happened to me
Slow down ahead of time so that you are already down to 50 mph when exiting. You are wasting gasoline. I don’t even brake to take the exit. Just make sure there is no car behind you.
I had to find Smokey Yunnick's post in an OLD Popular Mechanics magazine to fix this vibrating steering while braking on my1995 Ford Windstar. The dealership could not fix the problem for any longer than a drive home. It turns out that the stud nuts must be HAND TORQUED to 90 ft-lbs in at least 3 steps. Solves the problem every time. So I had to TEACH the local Ford Dealership since they were the only ones I would let touch my baby. The 2000 Windatar is not so sensitive but the effect is still there if they use their impact-driver brake sticks to torque the lug nuts. Lately I am driving a 2010 Fusion Sport and the problem is still there so if it acts up on a long trip I just pull into the nearest KalTire store and get the wheel nuts re-torqued evenly to 100ft-lbs. Makes a heck of a difference immediately. Many thanks to Smokey Yunnick and Popular Mechanics. I thought you needed to know.
Hey Scotty! I also want to point out. At times it can be your wheel pressure and alignment! Whenever my tires start to get lower that little shake can show up. But if I go a while without an alignment I definitely have the shakes at high-speed breaking. Just my 2 cents!
Every time i watch your videos i feel like working on my car even i don’t have to fix anything very energetic videos thanks Scotty
Every time he grunts I can't help but chuckle a bit😂😂
that was a smooth change, I am thinking of doing it to my car next time when I change the brake rotors and pads. that was the easiest and fastest brake change video I have seen, didn't see a lot but that was good enough to show you how to do it yourself....
I also changed my rotter back plate that comes with the abs system. The car doesn't wobble anymore.
Don't forget to pump the brakes until they firm back up with the car running BEFORE you drive off. A friend of mine forgot that simple thing and his wife drove through our other friend's shop garage door when the car wouldn't stop. $600 garage door repair. Expensive brake job there!
One of the big reasons why rotors warp is overtorquing the lug nuts and/or torquing them unevenly. Always use a correctly set torque wrench when putting on your lug nuts, and always re-torque the nuts if you ever have your car serviced/inspected by a mechanic and wheels had to be removed.
I used to go to one place they torqued them down by hand. The also balanced the tires on the car, they don't remove them, it makes for a really smooth ride.
the place had a lot of old timers working there.
I second the brake caliper kit, best $20 I've ever spent and I just recently got it after doing brakes for 30 years !!! Some much easier than using a screwdriver and old brake bad, screwing ends up slipping and ripping the caliper piston boot - just get one!
You are the greatest Scotty!!! I've had my 2000 f-350 for 18 years now and I've gone thru 5 sets of front rotors. The Best set I got was 10 yrs ago at NAPA, they were made in Illinois I believe, "American Made" they were the BEST!!! But it's just hard to keep rotors on the front of these heavy trucks. As always GREAT VIDEOS my good friend, God Bless you always!!! ☆Jay.
😍 yay The Land of Lincoln! 😍
For retracting the caliper we just take the brake fluid cap off, and use one of the old brake pads and a big clamp to clamp the brake pad to retract the caliper and that works great for anyone without the kit!!
Thanks for another great video always informative 👍🔧 🔧
Probably the best automotive maintenance video I've seen. Super informative, totally clear and concise.
There are better ones but I can’t name the other channel. Just search the topic and you will find one.
I brake for the Scotty channel everyday!
THANK YOU! All these years I have diy my brakes I did not know , was shown by any source or read anywhere to put antisqueel grease on the mating ends of the pads. Now I know for next time.
Scotty's torque spec: URGG, good video all jokes aside Scotty
Ah, yes, but something i think most DIY people forget is always check too if your rotors are NOT the same that rolled off the factory floor, had a buddy of mine still have his from 04, granted the car was a hand me down, low miles, but still took a good beating and CLR to get them suckers off
Just called Scotty and had a over phone diagnostic thanks
Important demonstration of what you're getting for what is often north of $700.00 at a service center, when getting brakes done. This process needs about 15min per side, when the mechanic is organized, and has the right tools and parts at the ready.
Your wife must be super cool with you using her car all the time as a test dummy lol
Test dummy? He's doing the favor for maintaining his wife's car to good running condition.
Having him saves her thousands and thousands of dollars so I bet she won’t care. Probably Scotty will find something while working that’s needs replacing and will do it on the spot.
Why is everyone so pissed off? It's a joke people!!
I hear you man but he actually replaced the rotors not just testing it.
The Lady has two pot calipers on Her daily. Super cool sounds just about right.
I had this on my 99 accord ex and i did the pads and rotor, it was super easy and fun to do and totally fixed the problem.
Thank you, my car always vibrates the steering everytime I brake & also when I drive fast
Informative and entertaining...great video...I’ve been looking for an answer to my cars shakey brake syndrome...and as an Uber driver videos like this helps me save money...not to mention that you actually gave good advise on where to get the tools cheap...awesome video
Really good video, Scotty! Now off to convince the wife to let me replace the rotors in her car :) A couple of questions:
1 - Speaking of breaking, is it true that if you're about to hit a pothole, you should never hit the brakes?
2 - What do you think about the tools sold by Harbor Freight to work on cars? I see some of them so cheap, but I wonder about their durability.
Thanks!
William from Connecticut
Yes, release the brake pedal just before hitting a bump. It reduces stress on the front suspension and the rear. Some HF tools are durable. I have two 1/2" air impact wrenches that are probably 25 years old. I don't use them that often but they still work. I also buy impact sockets there.
Hi William. I need my brakes done also. But my mechanic is charging over $460. U know anyone in ct? I'm in the naugatuck valley
@@julied915 Hi julie, I just saw the notification. I'm in NC so I can't recommend anyone. Don't go to the dealer. Go to a brake shop. Depending on what needs to be replaced it could get expensive. Many owners just change out the brake pads if there is no vibration when braking. If the rotors need replacing it will cost a lot more.
Folks, please DO NOT tighten the wheel nuts with an air gun or you run the risk of warping the new rotors. Always use a torque wrench set to manufacturer's specifications to tighten wheel nuts. Scotty is a professional mechanic and he knows how much to tighten wheel nuts with an air gun since he's probably done it thousands of times.
No one ever mentions how worn power steering rack bushings can also cause loose steering and vibration while driving. The entire rack floats side to side because of worn bushings.
smithraymond09029 difference is this happens only when braking. Your problem shakes sll the time
Interesting that you mention it! I've changed my tires, brakes and rotors but didn't know about the bushing! I will have to give that a try. Thanks!
this week im replacing al mine on my mk5 gti. all the bushing on the frontside, plus subframe collar kit to
@@gfriedman99quick question do I have to change my brakes when replacing the rotors
What I like to do is open the master cylinder before compressing the brakes, so that pressure doesn't build up in the lines. Not sure if you just didn't show it or if you know something I don't know. I'm 1/1000 the mechanic you are, and I love watching your videos.
Do I need to change the brakes I was just gonna change the rotors do I still need to do what you said???
Brake rotors do not warp from heat, even when driven by the most aggressive driver. Instead, they wear unevenly. ... The problem of pedal vibration, incorrectly called rotor warp, occurs 3,000 to 5,000 miles after the brake or tire change
Lol you must have just watched "Warped rotor myth"
Scotty.....congratulations.....one of the few people that uses the OLD brake pads as a cushion for retracting the caliper piston.
While the d rotor is off is the best time to clean up the rotor hub. I use a sanding wheel attached to end of a drill. Remove the rust, fort etc and make a nice clean, smooth surface for the new rotors to mate to. A small coating of brake cleaner will also
help to remove dirt and rust.
Different people might challenge this step but I put a small coating of Anti-Seize to the rotor hub especially the lip around the drive axle retaking but. Should make it a bit easier to remove rotors next time.
This should go without saying and basic common sense but you would probably be surprised how many people forget this step.
If you even remotely suspect that the vehicle might need new brake pads, rotors or both...............
Buy the new equipment first. Keep the new rotors, pads and hardware close by to prevent another trip to the parts retailer...(A/Z, Advance Auto, O’Reillys etc.....especially. critical of the vehicle is your only mode of transportation. If the new pads and rotors are not needed return for refund, simple as that
Don’t forget to check the caliper slide pins. For most vehicles this is what the caliper mounting bolt is threaded to. Only takes another couple of minutes. I personally remove the pin, clean off grease, check condition and put a new coating of fresh brake grease. For most vehicles at least the ones I have ever worked the grease is the same type that you apply to the brake pad.
Spray some brake cleaner keep a Q-Tip or pipe cleaner to remove as much of the old grease as possible.
The rust preventative coating applied to the rotor may be black. Only remove the coating for the part of the rotor where the new brake pads will contact. The rest of the coating is exactly that. Rust Preventative so you want the majority of the coating to remain.
As usual Scotty.....another good informative video. Sometimes your videos get slightly long winded but you make the point.
I
After cleaning and
Scotty, what about:
1) Stepping on the brakes to make sure the pads engage
&
2) The bleeding of the brakes?
No need to if you don't open the brake lines.
the only other thing i do is take the cap off my brake fluid reservoir. Seems to let excess fluid from compressing the pistons flow back up easier.
So helpful man now ik why my car shakes when I brake .keep up the good work man
Shake up your engines!
Sangsin Brakes are the OEM supplier to Hyundai/Kia. Best quality brakes from Korea!
☺️ I was thinking, not everyone is in Houston, maybe we cud make meet ups in certain city to help the noobs out with their cars, its sometimes alot harder than what u see in videos, some people need mentors like an aprenticeship, i wish i had that when i was growing up 😇🤠
MrSammy great idea.
@@gigel99324 🙂 thanks 🚗🚙
What about the spring/shock bolts that hold the calipers on?? U need to make sure they "spring" in and out freely before tightening them. They have small notches in them to let air out and prevent air locks.
"whack it from the back side"
Grunt.... Ahh....
"You gotta wiggle them around till they get in the hole right."
DisgruntledEmployee i looked purposely through the comments for this..lol
That's what she said!!😳😂
"One on one side, one on the other"
You can also use a C-clamp to compress the brake pistons
Wheel alignment usually is the reason why a wheel shakes like that besides the rotary
I usually bleed and flush the brake fluid when replacing pads cause the wheel is off and easier to remember when it was done. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so the boiling point goes down with age. I do it every 2 years. Cheap insurance. Additionally if you have and it protects the sensors. Keep the videos coming Scotty. Very educational and saves me money.👍 Appreciate you🏆
"ABS brakes" autocorrect removed key word.😁
THAT'S NOT THE WAY TO CHECK WARPED ROTORS.... you need to have a dial indicator for that.
To do this accurately you need dial indicator and you need to tighten the rotor to the hub.
You obviously havent watched to many of scottys videos. He rarley does anything right. but people watch his videos and he makes millions off them. I agree that you cant check runout the way he does. but he also says he has a 500 dollar micrometer.
Hey Scott, thanks for great knowledge. Please when next you have to spray something in front of the fan, it's best to back the fan when spraying so the fumes are blown away from you not towards you. Just a lil safety precaution. Thanks once again for the great work. Much love.
U rock bro!
I always used a giant C clamp with the old brake pad to close caliper. I love your site!
How much have u spend on ur lexus after buying it then servicing it ?
As always, your channel saves me money and best of all keeps my stress levels out of the red zone. THANKS!
😒 When your done wash your wheels out really good, get the good PRO stuff that can remove 'Iron', it turns purple when it reacts 😒👍
Scotty at 4:40 my Honda Civic manual (and perhaps others) says during brake pad replacement to swap the caliper hold pins so that they wear evenly over time. Also to ensure the boot is instact and fully greased (you kinda skipped over that part!).
Ha ha! That's a Pittsburgh jack from Harbor Freight.
I hope you used a 20% off coupon to get it.
If I didn't already have a floor jack, I would get one of those.
And use a 20% coupon.
they're excluded from the regular coupon. got to have the no exclusions coupon that gets sent out a few times a year or a parking lot sale
Its very true... I experienced in my BMW.. I fixed it by changing the rotars...now it's fine after changing
i just use a c clamp for my caliper pistons..
Me too, worked great.
I had this problem with my Honda after my Rotors were turned, went to the Honda Dealer and they told me the correct way to fix this on my Honda was to turn the Rotors while they are on the car, they have a special machine for that.
Instructions not clear. now my engine is hydro locked. help.
Did you reset the flux capacitor?
Autovlog
Just drill hole inside of full cylinder to let out the water.
I didn't know Dennis Hopper could fix cars! Cool! Thanks for the video man....
“Wack it from the backside to get it off” 😂
There is some guy who races cars that claims 99% of brake vibration is simply an uneven spot of brake pad deposit on the rotor. He claims he's very seldom seen a true warped, out of shape rotor. Not sure wether this is in a racing setting but some simple high G force stops from say 50mph to almost stopping, like one does when bedding in a new rotors, would remove the deposit. Interesting and my current rotors are somewhat "warped", only really feel it under hardish breaking down some of our mountain passes here in CO so I need to see if his theory is correct :)
Scotty, from one old mechanic to another I have to disagree with you on this. First, you show measuring parallelism of the rotor. If the parallelism is out your get a brake pedal that pulses, moves up and down under foot pressure while driving. If you want to check for warpage you would need a dial indicator. Warped rotors happen when uneven lug nut tightening is done, even over tightening does not cause this but the difference in torque between lugs when putting on the wheel. At first this does not cause a problem but as the rotor heats and cools it hardens just like sword makers harden swords by heating and cooling the metal. Under normal conditions this hardening does not cause a problem but if the rotor is warped this causes the rotor to be hard in spots. As the brakes are applied the brake pads move from a hard spot to a softer spot in the rotor as this does the pads grab better the softer spots on the rotor and grab less in the harder spots. In other words the coeffiction of friction changes though out the rotor face causing the pads to grab and slide across the rotor face.
😒 In theory I agree with you, but for the noobs looking at this video i recommend they dont waste their time measuring anything, I recommend just going to the auto parts store and picking up premium rotors and premium ceramic pads, hardware, silicone lube, brake grease, etc, and get to work Chop Chop 😒🚗
Ha! You big time wrench slingers telling someone new not to forget to grease their brakes. Get a brain!
Let's all pitch in and help Scotty Clean Out that Garage!
You forgot to take the brake fluid cap off first, how many cases have y'all damaged?, some mechanics y'all are
That and bleeding the brake fluid if it aren't a automatic bleeding system which I highly doubt that car has.
Can you explain why please, thank you.
I had my front discs replaced on my Land Rover Discovery 3 with the Chinese made discs.
They squeaked from the start. I changed the pads, problem remained. Couldn't figure it out for months. Noticed my miles per gallon had dropped by 10.
Then, out of the blue, Mr Google Algo , suggested your video.
Yes, I had noticed ever so slight shaking in steering wheel when I breaked.
So I got the genuine front discs instead and hey presto, miles per gallon went from 27 to 37.1!
That means I will be making fuel savings of 15 yo-yos per week. Which means the cheap discs I had installed in the first place would have cost double the genuine discs had I not replaced them.
Thank you Scotty!!!!
May I just say to the first timers or the inexperienced: Don't think because you viewed this video, you can just go and fix the brakes on your particular vehicle. This is only an example, performed by an experienced professional.
😏 LOL let them find out how hard it is just to get a real rotor off! haha noobs! 😂
Absolutely right. This is a time consuming. Especially if you doing this for the first time. You have to learn how to take these brakes and calipers off. It does get challenging. One rotor might take you about 1hr., or 2hr.
@@slicaltimistic1 😱 the rear rotor might have an inner integrated brake drum to work on as well 😡
😂 sometimes u cant even get the lug nuts off! heehee 😇
Lmao I can do a brake job in 20 minutes flat
Wow didn't realize how something that looks so complicated to do can actually be very simple. Great video.
I guess what we have here is your average Texas break job! In the Northeast when you have lots of road salt and calcium chloride eating away and swelling up your disc brake rotor and the hub getting the rotor off is going to be a new adventure.
It usually takes a torch in a much larger hammer to get those rotors off. Once the rotors are off you have to clean the hub underneath which is usually heavily rusted. After cleaning the hub then use a dial-indicator to make sure the hub is straight before installing the new rotor and then proceed as the video goes. Scotty It may be a good idea for all of those people in the rest of the country in the salt belt to give them a heads up...
A pair of pairs.
Finally a new scotty video that is actually helpful. Been a while.
My car shakes like crazy when I brake
Check if your rims are bent or damaged. That happened to me I put the damaged rim on the back of the car took the back rim put it on the front of the car. Didn’t shake anymore it’s a quick fix until you get a new rim or rims. Hitting potholes or a curb will bend rims or damage them
Make sure you follow these steps quickly to give time to brake on time.
Put your right foot in before braking. Then take your right foot out. Then put your right foot in, and then brake.
Then do the hokey pokey
Beetle Juice lol. There’s always one lol
You put rims on your car??
If you don’t know much about cars, just go to a mechanic. You could be chasing that problem all day with no answer.