Many people have mentioned in other videos tips: use plastic ties to keep your area clear so you don’t have things dangling, put a washer where the bolts are apparently this keeps it from leaking, change spark plugs since your there even if it’s not needed to avoid the dismantling once again. Then again I’m not mechanically inclined lol I’ve been watching this bc I’m looking to buy a 2008 and it appears it’s common? Nice video great explanation.
MIL just showed up for a short visit and I noticed her Highlander was leaving a little oil on the driveway. I take a look and it’s definitely the front bank…thank God… I’ve done these on the Honda 3.5L and the rear is a real pain. I report back to her my findings and tell her I’ll fix the leak and she says “why not do both sideswhile you’re in there” … yea lady… sure lol
Well done Charles. I replaced our's this afternoon. Note to others, our existing gasket has been in place a very long time and has seemingly become hardwood. Very difficult removing the round pieces from the valve cover as they were both brittle and very stuck in place. Patience and prying go hand in hand.
Thank you. Appreciate the video. I'd never seen a torx male head before, and I'd have left off the form-a-gasket (gray permatex) on those seams. My rear gasket isn't leaking as bad, I'm hoping it will keep holding. I dread taking all that apart to get to it.
The OEM spark plug oil seals if never been done don't come out easy, they are phenolic bonded to an aluminum band and pressed in. The phenolic just chips away from the band trying to extract with a screwdriver damaging the aluminum cover. I bent the aluminum band over away from the cover and then used the seal puller to complete the job.
@@CharlesAndCars I know. I have searched for video as there is an extra wire harness on top of the front valve cover that I am having trouble removing and a 17 mm bolt I can't remove.
I have the same problem with the reverse torx screws, which are M6X1.0 fine threaded. I can't locate an M6X1.0 left hand fine threaded nut to lock in the regular nut so I can wrench it out. All the available nuts are course threaded. Can anyone please point me to a source?
Its annoying how they are front and rear but everywhere online calls them left and right. This makes no sense. I shouldnt have to order both if I only need to change the front one. I have no idea why they are labeled as left and right.
Please don't use or apply torque 69 It's wrong and will break the small cover bolts use your hand to feel the the pressure on bolt I just break two bolts because of your video said apply 69 ft pounds I hope your good work re do the video with out use torque
Sorry that happened. If you go back and look at the video again you'll see that I say 69 inch lbs, not ft lbs. I had to go check it because 69 ft lbs will definitely break the bolts...
@@CharlesAndCars you clearly say 69 inch pounds. I can’t imagine trying to put nearly 70lbs of force on such small bolts… or even thinking that was right.
Probably THE best auto repair video I've seen.
Clear, concise, zero unnecessary background information
Great video!
Many people have mentioned in other videos tips: use plastic ties to keep your area clear so you don’t have things dangling, put a washer where the bolts are apparently this keeps it from leaking, change spark plugs since your there even if it’s not needed to avoid the dismantling once again. Then again I’m not mechanically inclined lol I’ve been watching this bc I’m looking to buy a 2008 and it appears it’s common? Nice video great explanation.
My front one is leaking too, guess I'm lucky also. still nice to see you do the repair and walk through , thanks for the quality video.
Glad to help
Very helpful. Thanks for the "double nut" idea for the #5e stud.
MIL just showed up for a short visit and I noticed her Highlander was leaving a little oil on the driveway. I take a look and it’s definitely the front bank…thank God… I’ve done these on the Honda 3.5L and the rear is a real pain. I report back to her my findings and tell her I’ll fix the leak and she says “why not do both sideswhile you’re in there” … yea lady… sure lol
Well done Charles. I replaced our's this afternoon. Note to others, our existing gasket has been in place a very long time and has seemingly become hardwood. Very difficult removing the round pieces from the valve cover as they were both brittle and very stuck in place. Patience and prying go hand in hand.
Watch this video if you or anyone is having a hard time removing the circle tube seals. You will thank me. ua-cam.com/video/ptHtyQ3J2nk/v-deo.html
Thank you. Appreciate the video. I'd never seen a torx male head before, and I'd have left off the form-a-gasket (gray permatex) on those seams. My rear gasket isn't leaking as bad, I'm hoping it will keep holding. I dread taking all that apart to get to it.
Glad it helped
Thanks for posting, I was worried I'd have to remove the timing belt cover.
Glad it helped
The OEM spark plug oil seals if never been done don't come out easy, they are phenolic bonded to an aluminum band and pressed in. The phenolic just chips away from the band trying to extract with a screwdriver damaging the aluminum cover. I bent the aluminum band over away from the cover and then used the seal puller to complete the job.
Nice video. Is there a video for the same repair for the 2009 Toyota Highlander Sport?
The 2009 Sport has a 3.5L engine... not exactly the same.
@@CharlesAndCars I know. I have searched for video as there is an extra wire harness on top of the front valve cover that I am having trouble removing and a 17 mm bolt I can't remove.
Do you need to let the silicone dry before driving?
It's a good idea to let it cure before exposing it to oil. Look at the silicone that you're using. It'll state how long the cure time is.
7:11 you didnt even say what this product is. What are you using there?
use permatex ultra gray
Are you asking about the gasket, not the sealant?
Gasket set: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=917126&cc=1434461&pt=10710&jsn=1061
@@CharlesAndCars deleted my other reply since I think I got it mixed up with another thread. Thanks.
What’s the red styling called
I'm assuming you mean the red sealant? It's just RTV (Silicone sealant) that I had. If you have to buy some I would get permatex ultra grey.
I have the same problem with the reverse torx screws, which are M6X1.0 fine threaded. I can't locate an M6X1.0 left hand fine threaded nut to lock in the regular nut so I can wrench it out. All the available nuts are course threaded. Can anyone please point me to a source?
I'm having trouble finding the gasket set for my 2005 Highlander v6. Where did u get urs from?
rockauto.com
Hi did you forgot to go 2nd round of torque 69
Thanks I learned from your video
No, they were torqued.... glad it helped.
Totally INCH pounds torque
Its annoying how they are front and rear but everywhere online calls them left and right. This makes no sense. I shouldnt have to order both if I only need to change the front one. I have no idea why they are labeled as left and right.
Please don't use or apply torque 69
It's wrong and will break the small cover bolts use your hand to feel the the pressure on bolt
I just break two bolts because of your video said apply 69 ft pounds
I hope your good work re do the video with out use torque
Sorry that happened. If you go back and look at the video again you'll see that I say 69 inch lbs, not ft lbs. I had to go check it because 69 ft lbs will definitely break the bolts...
@@CharlesAndCars
Thanks for reply it's should be 8 ft pounds anyway use hand torque better
@@CharlesAndCars you clearly say 69 inch pounds. I can’t imagine trying to put nearly 70lbs of force on such small bolts… or even thinking that was right.
How about rear?😅
Rear was not leaking so didn't have to do it.
@@CharlesAndCars Wondering why, since the temperature is higher there and the rear head is tilted so bad so it is easier for oil to leak
Don't know why, but it wasn't leaking so left alone.