IF YOU HAVE A HUB MOTOR E-BIKE DO THIS NOW!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 сер 2022
- I never thought to check these bolts. If they were to come loose or like come off, the whole side housing of the motor would spin off itself causing a catastrophic failure.
Bonus: Another place you need to check is the bolts holding your disc on the motor. A lot of hub motors are designed where the wire is very close to those bolts. If they back out at all they could slice into that wire causing a short.
Shorts can be a simple fix where you literally just fix the wire and you're good to go, or it could be catastrophic where the short overpowers the controller sending a large amount of power to a component that's not designed for it. I've actually had the bolts back out off my disc before and short the motor wire. The only thing that broke on my system was the throttle so I have to replace throttle and fix the wire and I was good to go.
I got lucky. - Розваги
its a good idea to check every screw and bolt after first getting any new bike. electric or otherwise and check them after the first few miles ride esp if it's a heavy bike or do off-road riding being they can vibrate a lot more. and also good to check them at least once or 2 a year
My rule for checking bolts is the same for when to oil a new axe handle.
1. one a day for a week
2. once a week for a month
3. once a month for a year
4. once a year
my motor bolts have been perfect, but my brake rotor bolts were ALL loose from the factory. If you have rear suspension with the cantilever arm, check those as the middle bolt usually comes loose at some point. They should have used proper insert bearings instead of a pin bushing.
Dude I had mine back out too. Blue lock tight and all is well.
I mess about with my ebike all the time but never thought of checking them bolts nice one man I will check them today ✌👍
All bolts should be checked a few times a year or get it serviced.
Just like you would on a regular bike.
Use some Lock-tight on the threads before screwing them, so they won't get loose in the futur. Also Use a Torque Wrenches with 6.5 Nm max of tork to screw those. Otherwise you will stripped the threads and will have to make new ones with a Stripped Thread Repair Insert Kit that cost only 15$. Just the screwed and unscrewed them can stripped the threads. I tell you that from experiences on at least 2 hub motor.
You probably know all that already. I was just sharing my experience with those. The first time I did only one hole with an Insert than when I mounted it another stripped, than another one and another one. So when it happened again on another motor I did all of them at once. It makes them stronger and won't stripped anymore.
Absolutely. Also if you're buying a quality motor, they're probably already using loctite, so trying to tighten them more will just break the seal and be absolutely useless. So fully remove one bolt and check if it's already sealed
Thanks,
I'll check them when i order/get a kit - hopefully in 2 weeks, I'm so looking forward to building my bike into an ebike, great fun 'cos i had one about 6 years ago (Cyclamatic Power Plus 24v 250w rear hub/power assist with throttle, did max about 18mph) and back then I loved that bike..
I'm thinking of a rear hub drive kit from Amazon ('m UK) and I don't have a lot of money to spend, say £650 absolute tops.
If you guys have any advice on the best waterproof (too wet here in england) rear hub kit to buy it'd be greatly appreciated...
Im planning on...
1000/1500w 48v with controller (most probs get 1500) rear hub drive kit..
I will be getting a 52v battery (triangle) with as much 'Ampage' as possible (20ah im hoping for too many hills in uk, especially my area!)..
I really only have 600-650 I'm hoping to get the rear hub kit for about £250 - if it's a 'must need thing' then i'll buy a better controller (when more money) but i dont have much clue about what controller to get).
I'm expecting to pay around £350 max for a 52v high ampage battery, it's my understanding that the higher the amps in the 'battery'/and what the 'controller' can handle then you get more torque strength and better overall journey full distance..
I've sort of figured that a 52v battery will get the most out of a 48v kit (without overpowering it too much) and I know that controller heat and temps can be an issue and to keep checking for overheating etc).
I've looked into shunt modding cntroller too by adding extra solder to the shunt wire)...got a basic idea but id obviously look up the controller info etc before splashing solder everywhere😂
I know i'll also need a top quality torque arm -or 2- (£10-15 I've estimated) to stop the wheel tearing away from the axel/rear bike end (I measured it to be 135-140mm).
Please feel free to totally correct me if I've got it all wrong 'cos I'm new to building e-bikes but I worked on many a car engine (when younger) so mechanically I should be ok building it.
Any advice is greatly appreciated
Thanks.
The nuts for bolts gave plastic inserts so the can't come loose plus a painted bolts with black paint to match in paint when dry is lock tight can't see how they should come loose
I managed to get my build done and before I put my rear hub motor on my bike I checked all the bolts both sides to make sure they were all tight and ok, thanks for the tip, always good to know what you're looking for when it comes to assembling an e-bike kit.
My build is a 1500w 48v Voilamart kit with a 52v 20ah battery and I love it, so much fun!
Also put the permanent loctite thread glue or whatever is called on there the permanent one because even those permanent after you riding it it will come loose but it will have a strong bond on it for a good while I do that and it's helped tremendously cuz I have the same situation where I actually had some of them missing.
Thanks for the heads up. I checked mine (only 2 months old) and a could were loose🤯
Most hub motor have split washers to keep pressure on the bolts
Or have bit Loctite on
Thid video will save me thousands
Add witness marks, draw a line over half the screw and a bit of the housing, if a screw is loosening then you can easily see it that way
Its how its done in automobile since a long time
I’ve had great luck with Loctite but that’s definitely a good idea.
Gnarly, bro. Like, full on
use a ball end allen keyto getthe hard to reach ones
That’s smart, my disc is so large, however that I have to remove the wheel and disc in order to get to some bolts.
Them heat sink blade do they slow bike down a little. Some people say using fins and fluid slows down by 3 mph is that true I've ordered some from Australia just Finns no fluid seller says still work with out fluid
I've gotten into the habit of checking for loose hex nut screws on mine, they go between 28 to 40 mph.
Duct tape works for me and my ride ✌️❤️
🔥
Where did you get your tires
someone doesnt know about threadlocking compound :D
Wut? Wuts dat? LoL
Do they actually work though? I don't want to take the plunge until I know for sure lol
I really think they do.
How efficient are those heatsinks
I don’t have any official numbers but I’d say least 20% across-the-board.
@@ErikKibbeedo you have ferrofluid in the motor? that would be like a cpu with no thermal paste, or a radiator in a car with no fluid, if not. also are there holes drilled in the housing?
@@thechenowth3406 before ferrofluid became the thing, people drilled vents. My guess is whomever had this motor him or other did that before ferrofluid became the go to coolant a couple yrs ago.
Just for any noobsnnot familiar with it - it's only for direct drive hub motors - not geared.
If you don't know which you have, find out first.
Ferrofluid in a geared motor is ineffective and can damage the gears
However, you _can_ use a little bit of ATF and improve the heat transfer a bit.
It will never be as tolerant of overvolt/current, but you can see a power gain of up to 50% without blowing it up.
Do add temp monitoring.
If you have a prebuilt geared.hub ebike, it probably has chintzy controllers.
You can always add a.temp.probe and display - just look around.
what brand is your bike
It’s a Hi-Power Cycles bike.
dude! Hold the camera still!
loctite
You could have had more trouble than just loose screws!!! Often loose items coming out of factories & even from repair shops!!! Workers joke around ,not taking their jobs serious enough, resulting in some
serious accidents!!
You locktite stuff like that on a mountain bike
It wont go anywhere if you lost them all
Luckily it didn’t get to that point. But it’s definitely something I didn’t really think about checking at 1st.
@@ErikKibbee When I say it wont go anywhere I mean LITERALLY the motor will still run fine because its clamped solid inside the rear triangle ,I've split plenty ,its impossible to separate the cover/stator from the magnets while it's in the bike so you're SAFE .
@@ianmangham4570 and watch ur fingers putting them back together lol😅
@@MikAnimal I sure do miss having fingers 😕 😫
Theres no more bolts to check
After almost every ride.
What motor is that?
Electric
Just lock tite them
I actually used to low strength, Loctite and that works pretty well. I definitely don’t recommend anything stronger because when it comes time to open the motor up for servicing, good luck.
If you rotate the tire ... .nevermind
I’m listening haha
@@ErikKibbee don't mind me I was having a Joe Biden moment.....my apologies sir .
Just put lock tite
this doesnt even matter