Mint, I took mine apart to fix another one 10yrs ago and stole the return pipe. Lost the nuts and washers and hadn't a clue what I was looking at. Easy now thanks 😊
Fuel rails are a common rail injection thing. Lines in the top of the injectors are high pressure injector lines, line/couplers that connect injectors is the return line assembly
It's a good idea to hold the injector steady with a spanner when you undo the feed pipes. I went to undo the feeds on our Jensen wood chipper and the injector turned slightly too which put a hairline crack in the bleed pipe's connection to the collar. Cleaned it up and silver soldered it back on, but would have been a problem if it had happened on site.
Great video thank you, this really helps me. I am new to this and have the marine version of the Kubota D950 (Universal M25XP). It has a nasty what seems like vibration above 2k RPM and makes black smoke at that point. Someone on the dock said it sounds like a 'dead cylinder' caused by a bad or failing injector (comments/opinions are welcome and encouraged). I especially appreciated seeing that fuel rail come off in your video because I was looking at that on my engine wondering how in the hec those lines were fastened.
Glad I'm able to help. Hopefully I'll have a new video here in a while showing the close ups of removing injectors and such. I didnt have my camera gear that day so I had to hold the camera. It sounds like it to me, either a bad injector or a bent connecting rod.
Video was a great help of what to expect when removing the lines, EXEPT I cant get the lines of the fuel injection jump. It's like they are welded on (with rust) I've tried all the different penetrants for almost 2 weeks now. The fittings that goes into the pump are loose, but the injection lines won't budge. May have to cut the lines and remove the injector fittings to get a good grip on them to see if I can beat the lines off or heat would be safe to try then. Anyway, thank you for sharing how you removed your lines.
@@rosincore Thanks for the tip, but that's what I've been doing, using a mallet. They are stuck on the fittings that are part of the injection pump. The problem is they (the pump fittings) are turning ( and the stuck injection lines turn with them) and kind of hard to keep them from turning while holding and beating the line connectors. If I don't succeed I'll cut the lines and place the pump fittings in a vice, then I could even use some heat? Hard to believe the are that hard to remove, but I can see they have had some rough handling in the past. Thank's again.
Thanks for the vid. That gets me started. I've got to tare my d600 down. I've never messed with a diesel before. Mine is blowing oil & water out of the exhaust. 😔😒 I've got a lot more learning to do. 🙄
@speedbuggy7240 if your blowing water out of exhaust as well, most likely that's a head gasket. It's pretty straight forward. Just follow torque specs. I usually do them in about an hour or so.
@@rosincore That you for responding. I hope that's all it is. When I get time this fall/winter I'll pull the head and have it checked. If it's good I'll have it resurfaced, but I'm wondering if I should have the whole head redone. It's in a cub cadet 1572. I have another 1572 that I've got to see if it runs. I just got both these in the last couple weeks. Thx again for the vids. I appreciate it.
I came hoping to get the torque spec as I don't have the book. There is actually another part to the injector. It is a very small disc that sits on top of the spring in the upper half. I used carb cleaner, then tapped the upper on a wrench to get the disc out. Cleaned out that area completely.
Assemble the nozzle in clean fuel oil.• Install the push rod (4), noting its direction.• After assembling the nozzle, be sure to adjust the fuel injection pressure. Nozzle holder torque 34.3 to 39.2 N-m 3.5 to 4.0 kgfm 25.3 to 28.9 ft-bs Overflow pipe retaining nut 19.6 to 24.5 N-m 2.0 to 2.5 kgf-m 14.5 to 18.1 ft-lbs Nozzle holder assembly 49.0 to 68.6 N-m 5.0 to 7.0 kgfm 36.2 to 50.6 ft-lbs
Good video thanks for uploading it, much more intuitive than reading the manual. I notice diesel leaking some where near the injectors. I thought it was where the injector screws into the head but I think perhaps it may be higher up where the fuel line are tighten on to the injectors. Is it possible for a leak to occur in either of those locations?
@@jonathanfalkenberg6457 In my case I just tighten up the nuts above the fuel line that links across the injectors. That eliminated 90% of the leaking diesel. There remains a small leak where one of the injector threads into the head but its so minor I will leave it as is and only monitor it. I would recommend to start with tightening the most accessible nuts/components first, even if they appear tight, and see if that solves the leak. There is a lot of work to get a spanner on the injector proper and it may not even be leaking there,
@kevocos Sorry for the late reply, but normally, it's either the nuts came loose or the copper crush washers are leaking. I've had to replace them before and torque properly.
Yeah I regret not filming that part. Ill try to do a video on it when I have to pull them again. I used a 6 point socket and breaker bar to "break" them loose.
I think I would have cleaned that whole area first before the operation. Warm (not hot) engine plug Gunk plus either hose or pressure washer (used carefully). Really don't want to introduce crap into the fuel system or the cylinders.
I recently purchased a 463 with a Kubota D1005 engine. The previous owner had been putting gasoline in the tank, but I don't know for how long. He is elderly and has no clue how mechanical things work. His deceased wife was the brains of the operation. The engine only has 225 hours on it. I drained the fuel tank (still had some diesel mixed with the gas) and flushed it out. Filled with fresh diesel fuel and new filter. Machine fired right up and ran great with no smoke. Gave the machine a good wash in the morning and immediately went to start it and it would not start. What do you think?
@@rosincore When I crank it after sitting for a long period it gives a sputter as if it was about to start with a puff of black smoke. After that, nothing but cranking. We had loosened the top nuts on each injector and fluid did sputter out when cranking.
Heavy White smoke from a diesel engine is caused by the temperature being too low in the combustion chamber. This can happen when either there is raw diesel fuel that passes through to the exhaust, engine coolant is entering the combustion chamber, or the piston or other components are worn, damaged, or not correctly installed. Light white smoke could be due to A clogged fuel filter Low pressure in the fuel pump (Air in the fuel) Faulty or damaged injectors
Great video, well explained! Thanks! I own an old compact Antonio Carraro Tigre model. I had a runaway with it but luckily the engine haven’t seized. I was able to start it again after servicing it but the engine runs rough and clunks much more. It also make a bit of smoke. Not much and white, but it does. what I've read is that injectors might be the cause of it. So, I was wondering what was the cause on your Kubota that made you clean your injectors? Thanks!
I cleaned the injectors just for the video. The unit was rolled over while running. I pulled the injectors to get the oil out of the motor. It's easier to pull the glow plugs instead, but I wanted to check injectors.
What was happening with your Kubota to make you wanna clean your FI's? Mine is blowing out black smoke and wont turn off when i turn the key to off position. Should i start by cleaning the F.I's?
@bro_chacho the fuel injectors were actually out of a Bobcat mt85. Same engine though. It was rolled over and fixed. Had a little smoke after repair. Checked injectors just to be sure they were clean.
Crack the lines loose at the rail to get the air out. You may have to crack the nuts at the injectors. Only slightly loosen nut as there is extreme pressure. Crank until fuel comes out around nut
I was watching your video and thanks for doing it. My G4200 started with a leak on the manifold for the injection pump. I replaced the gasket but still had the same leak plus picked up a leak on one of the injectors. I replaced the two "O" rings on the injector and installed another gasket. I still have the leak, it loks like it might be oil with gas coming out. The motor tries to start a little but never does run plus the leak comes out at the gasket. Is there a chance that I am pressurizing the motor due to an injection pump leak and forcing the oil-gas out? Hopefully you will have the time to assist me.
Any idea why one cylinder has so much carbon? How is the thermostat? Asking: If thermostat is hanging open, could the cylinder closest to the radiator be running cool?
Not very often. I Only do this when a unit gets rolled over or there is a noticeable loss of power, or when the engine does not want to throttle up smoothly. Running diesel additives every once in a while helps keep them clean, as well as replacing your fuel filters regularly.
Great video! Just bought a RTV X1140 diesel. I have noticed that mine blows a little whittish smoke at start up and disappears in a few seconds. Just curios if it may be normal for little smoke at start up ? Mine has barely 7 engine hours.
Thanks for the video. What was the symptoms of the motor that made you clean the injectors. My motor when it’s in high idle it seems like it wants to cut off I have changed both fuel line filters but I have not clean the fuel injectors
sorry for the late reply... The unit was rolled over which requires in a diesel engine to pull all injectors and to rotate the engine to get rid of excess oil buildup in the cylinder so you do not bend a cylinder rod. Sames goes if you hydro lock a gasoline engine. You would pull the spark plug and rotate the engine. Hopefully the engine was shut off just before it sucked in any oil (water). I have saved many diesels this way.
i have a 2 cylinder Z430 Kubota Diesel. do you have or do you know what the drain thumb-screw type thing is supposed to drain, it's below the injector pump, it has 2 flat kinda things, like a flattened out straight wingnut ? to open & close. i only see some dust on end of it when i took it out. . looks like dried antifreeze maybe. is there supposed to be oil in bottom of an injection pump ? i cant't find info on it anywhere.
Sounds like thats the water drain cock. So dried antifreeze sounds right. That is to drain the block when doing a coolant flush or change. Please checkout www.dieselparts.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Z482-Z602-D722-D902.pdf and goto page 12. Does this look like what you are talking about?
The only reason i labeled them is because i re used the copper gasket. Ends up that i needed to buy new ones as the old washer leaked and caused blow by. It was bubbling outside around the injector. You should always buy new crush washers every time your remove and replace your injectors. the bobcat part number is 6655218
Great video 👍 I just bought a Small tractor, with have the same engine and I have to crank a LOT and after a lot of smoke it finally starts. Do you think it the injectors? I changed the fuel filter already.
Make sure if it has glow plugs to run them for 10-15 seconds. Make sure there is fuel getting to the injectors . Usually smoke would indicate that you are at least getting fuel in the cylinder, black smoke usually indicates an over-fueled or under-aired condition. I would pre-heat the glowplugs for 30 seconds or so. Make sure your battery is fully charged.. Most of the time this will get it to start if there is not another problem. After trying that method a couple of times if it still won't start I would go ahead and check the air filter and then crack the injector lines at the injectors to make sure they are getting fuel.
@@rosincore Thanks, I’ll check the glow plugs next, I usually run them for at least 30 secs. The air filter is new, and yes,there is a lot of black smoke when it fires. Then, I’ll check fuel at the injectors for sure. Thanks again.
@rosincore Yes I concur; Using the glow-plugs often despite that they are intended for cold-weather then keep battery up as best possible and replace filters as often as budget can allow … Messik's can provide branded Kubota parts an Eddie Kennell responded promptly MESSICK'S Parts Technician, Team Leader 187 Merts Drive, Elizabethtown, PA 17022 Direct Line: 717.361.4834 | 717.367.6662 fax → Anything that can be done to avoid knock-off imitation parts is needful despite any and whatever your mechanic ability ~ Currently older older tractors are "worth their weight in gold" so see Louis Rossmann on Right to Repair as he has taken the lead in this battle despite that his style is not mine
The workshop manual from kubota. They have everything you need for information. A copy for example www.kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Engines/&file=SM-E2B%20series.pdf
Well I will be. I am changing the injectors in a kubota 5 cylinder, they are stuck so I thought I'd check out this video to see how you pulled them out...... Um, you skipped the only part I wanted to see.
@@rosincore I got a question about the same issue you had here One of my employees laid my minix on its side and let it set thst way for 30 minutes he got it pushed back up right waited 30 minutes and tried cranking it He says it took 30 minutes of trying to start it to finally start Then he ran it pretty hard for a couple hours He never told anyone and failed to call me and report the roll over It now runs fine but puffs white smoke and it seems to have crank case pressure Is there anything I can do to stop the smoke Seems like it runs fine other than the white smoke and high crack case pressure This is a 2019 kabota K008-3
And setting the pop off pressure?? Video is a total con, the description of a vacuum line is totally wrong. No vacuum present there, it is a leak off pipe.
I was just showing removal and re installation. Not modifying pop pressure. That would be a whole different video explaining shims and pressures. Yes I know I mis spoke. You are correct with the pipe. Sorry I made a mistake.
Mint, I took mine apart to fix another one 10yrs ago and stole the return pipe. Lost the nuts and washers and hadn't a clue what I was looking at. Easy now thanks 😊
@@dasheddevelopments6125 glad it could help! Thanks
Fuel rails are a common rail injection thing. Lines in the top of the injectors are high pressure injector lines, line/couplers that connect injectors is the return line assembly
It's a good idea to hold the injector steady with a spanner when you undo the feed pipes. I went to undo the feeds on our Jensen wood chipper and the injector turned slightly too which put a hairline crack in the bleed pipe's connection to the collar. Cleaned it up and silver soldered it back on, but would have been a problem if it had happened on site.
Good heads up! Thanks!
Your right I did the same thing but brazed it back together
Great video thank you, this really helps me. I am new to this and have the marine version of the Kubota D950 (Universal M25XP). It has a nasty what seems like vibration above 2k RPM and makes black smoke at that point. Someone on the dock said it sounds like a 'dead cylinder' caused by a bad or failing injector (comments/opinions are welcome and encouraged). I especially appreciated seeing that fuel rail come off in your video because I was looking at that on my engine wondering how in the hec those lines were fastened.
Glad I'm able to help. Hopefully I'll have a new video here in a while showing the close ups of removing injectors and such. I didnt have my camera gear that day so I had to hold the camera.
It sounds like it to me, either a bad injector or a bent connecting rod.
@@rosincore Thank you for the additional comment and reinforcement. Much appreciated !
Many thanks roll one of little diggers over and it lock had pull injectors out watch this went back out got the job done back up and running 👍👍👍
I've found its easier to pull the glow plugs. Same effect but easier
Video was a great help of what to expect when removing the lines, EXEPT I cant get the lines of the fuel injection jump. It's like they are welded on (with rust) I've tried all the different penetrants for almost 2 weeks now. The fittings that goes into the pump are loose, but the injection lines won't budge. May have to cut the lines and remove the injector fittings to get a good grip on them to see if I can beat the lines off or heat would be safe to try then. Anyway, thank you for sharing how you removed your lines.
@ibberman try to get your hands on "Line Wrenches" or fuel line wrenches. They grip and wont round. Tap one with a hammer
@@rosincore Thanks for the tip, but that's what I've been doing, using a mallet. They are stuck on the fittings that are part of the injection pump. The problem is they (the pump fittings) are turning ( and the stuck injection lines turn with them) and kind of hard to keep them from turning while holding and beating the line connectors. If I don't succeed I'll cut the lines and place the pump fittings in a vice, then I could even use some heat? Hard to believe the are that hard to remove, but I can see they have had some rough handling in the past. Thank's again.
thanks this helped me be more confident changing mine
Glad I could help
Thanks for the vid. That gets me started. I've got to tare my d600 down. I've never messed with a diesel before. Mine is blowing oil & water out of the exhaust. 😔😒 I've got a lot more learning to do. 🙄
@speedbuggy7240 if your blowing water out of exhaust as well, most likely that's a head gasket. It's pretty straight forward. Just follow torque specs. I usually do them in about an hour or so.
@@rosincore That you for responding. I hope that's all it is. When I get time this fall/winter I'll pull the head and have it checked. If it's good I'll have it resurfaced, but I'm wondering if I should have the whole head redone.
It's in a cub cadet 1572. I have another 1572 that I've got to see if it runs. I just got both these in the last couple weeks. Thx again for the vids. I appreciate it.
I came hoping to get the torque spec as I don't have the book. There is actually another part to the injector. It is a very small disc that sits on top of the spring in the upper half. I used carb cleaner, then tapped the upper on a wrench to get the disc out. Cleaned out that area completely.
Assemble the nozzle in clean fuel oil.• Install the push rod (4), noting its direction.• After assembling the nozzle, be sure to adjust the fuel injection pressure.
Nozzle holder torque
34.3 to 39.2 N-m
3.5 to 4.0 kgfm
25.3 to 28.9 ft-bs
Overflow pipe retaining nut
19.6 to 24.5 N-m
2.0 to 2.5 kgf-m
14.5 to 18.1 ft-lbs
Nozzle holder assembly
49.0 to 68.6 N-m
5.0 to 7.0 kgfm
36.2 to 50.6 ft-lbs
Good video thanks for uploading it, much more intuitive than reading the manual.
I notice diesel leaking some where near the injectors. I thought it was where the injector screws into the head but I think perhaps it may be higher up where the fuel line are tighten on to the injectors.
Is it possible for a leak to occur in either of those locations?
Dealing with same issue
@@jonathanfalkenberg6457 In my case I just tighten up the nuts above the fuel line that links across the injectors. That eliminated 90% of the leaking diesel.
There remains a small leak where one of the injector threads into the head but its so minor I will leave it as is and only monitor it.
I would recommend to start with tightening the most accessible nuts/components first, even if they appear tight, and see if that solves the leak. There is a lot of work to get a spanner on the injector proper and it may not even be leaking there,
@kevocos Sorry for the late reply, but normally, it's either the nuts came loose or the copper crush washers are leaking. I've had to replace them before and torque properly.
All good, except I didn't see how you got those injectors out. On older tractors, those things are frozen in there.
Yeah I regret not filming that part. Ill try to do a video on it when I have to pull them again. I used a 6 point socket and breaker bar to "break" them loose.
I wonder what a 'nozzle holder' is and why it has different torque as a 'holder' versus an 'assembly.'
No motor 4 cilindros é a mesma forma de manutenção? Eu tenho um V1505-TE
Yes it would be the same. You would just have one more injector.
I think I would have cleaned that whole area first before the operation. Warm (not hot) engine plug Gunk plus either hose or pressure washer (used carefully). Really don't want to introduce crap into the fuel system or the cylinders.
@cbrbimmer1 your 100% right. I didnt have the option when I took it apart. I definitely clean before I do this on all other stuff haha.
When labeling injectors, isn't #1 cylinder on the waterpump end?
What is the torque spec when tightening the injectors once new ones are in place?
Nozzle holder torque
34.3 to 39.2 N-m
3.5 to 4.0 kgfm
25.3 to 28.9 ft-bs
Overflow pipe retaining nut
19.6 to 24.5 N-m
2.0 to 2.5 kgf-m
14.5 to 18.1 ft-lbs
Nozzle holder assembly
49.0 to 68.6 N-m
5.0 to 7.0 kgfm
36.2 to 50.6 ft-lbs
Thank you very much!
I recently purchased a 463 with a Kubota D1005 engine. The previous owner had been putting gasoline in the tank, but I don't know for how long. He is elderly and has no clue how mechanical things work. His deceased wife was the brains of the operation. The engine only has 225 hours on it. I drained the fuel tank (still had some diesel mixed with the gas) and flushed it out. Filled with fresh diesel fuel and new filter. Machine fired right up and ran great with no smoke. Gave the machine a good wash in the morning and immediately went to start it and it would not start. What do you think?
Is it sputtering or anything or just cranking without trying? Any smoke coming out exhaust?
@@rosincore
When I crank it after sitting for a long period it gives a sputter as if it was about to start with a puff of black smoke. After that, nothing but cranking. We had loosened the top nuts on each injector and fluid did sputter out when cranking.
Will the Pvc valve cause my diesel engine to blow white smoke and burn alot of oil?
Heavy White smoke from a diesel engine is caused by the temperature being too low in the combustion chamber. This can happen when either there is raw diesel fuel that passes through to the exhaust, engine coolant is entering the combustion chamber, or the piston or other components are worn, damaged, or not correctly installed.
Light white smoke could be due to A clogged fuel filter
Low pressure in the fuel pump (Air in the fuel)
Faulty or damaged injectors
Working on a Vermeer 450 TX mini skid with this motor injectors are leaking on top, what could possible issue be?
Sounds like the top crush washers. I'll try to get a picture of the breakdown. They are not expensive.
Great video, well explained! Thanks!
I own an old compact Antonio Carraro Tigre model. I had a runaway with it but luckily the engine haven’t seized.
I was able to start it again after servicing it but the engine runs rough and clunks much more. It also make a bit of smoke. Not much and white, but it does.
what I've read is that injectors might be the cause of it.
So, I was wondering what was the cause on your Kubota that made you clean your injectors?
Thanks!
I cleaned the injectors just for the video. The unit was rolled over while running. I pulled the injectors to get the oil out of the motor. It's easier to pull the glow plugs instead, but I wanted to check injectors.
What was happening with your Kubota to make you wanna clean your FI's? Mine is blowing out black smoke and wont turn off when i turn the key to off position. Should i start by cleaning the F.I's?
@bro_chacho the fuel injectors were actually out of a Bobcat mt85. Same engine though. It was rolled over and fixed. Had a little smoke after repair. Checked injectors just to be sure they were clean.
@@bro_chacho usually that is a fuel shut off solenoid gone bad or needs the linkage adjusted. Look for the rod that moves when the key is on and off.
Did you replace the injector cups like the manual calls for? If so, how did you get them out?
no i did not. I know the manual specifies that but i could not get them shipped in time. I re used the cups and have had no problems. 11/21
Is the injector cups same as the heat shield?
Hi sir how is the most common part couse a problem too killed all the machine everything about 2 --3 minutes after starting working on
Help: I have fuel to the injector pump but the rail is dry I replaced the fuel solenoid still no fuel in the rail
Crack the lines loose at the rail to get the air out. You may have to crack the nuts at the injectors. Only slightly loosen nut as there is extreme pressure.
Crank until fuel comes out around nut
Would you know where I can get a parts listing for my 2 cylinder Zexel pump?
injectionpumps.co.uk/
They have some good Information and parts.
Anyone know how to replace the glow plugs on these engines? Got a video of something?
yes going to upload a video here soon!
I was watching your video and thanks for doing it. My G4200 started with a leak on the manifold for the injection pump. I replaced the gasket but still had the same leak plus picked up a leak on one of the injectors. I replaced the two "O" rings on the injector and installed another gasket. I still have the leak, it loks like it might be oil with gas coming out. The motor tries to start a little but never does run plus the leak comes out at the gasket. Is there a chance that I am pressurizing the motor due to an injection pump leak and forcing the oil-gas out?
Hopefully you will have the time to assist me.
Check out this page as it has information that might help.
www.justanswer.com/heavy-equipment/4gq82-hello-1998-kubota-b2400-sitting-few.html
Is it possible to test the injector to see if its stuck open?
Thanks for the video. I have a bubble in one injector. it is a Kubota D722 same model. What do I have to do??
Any idea why one cylinder has so much carbon? How is the thermostat? Asking: If thermostat is hanging open, could the cylinder closest to the radiator be running cool?
unfortunately I'm not sure the answer of that question. The thermostat was working fine before this video and after.
How often do you find yourself having to do that amd what's the best way to prevent all that nastiness in there?
Not very often. I Only do this when a unit gets rolled over or there is a noticeable loss of power, or when the engine does not want to throttle up smoothly.
Running diesel additives every once in a while helps keep them clean, as well as replacing your fuel filters regularly.
How did you get the heat shield out after the injectors are out
Just used a pick and they came out
@@rosincore thanks
If you replace the injectors do you need to replace the heat shields
Great video! Just bought a RTV X1140 diesel. I have noticed that mine blows a little whittish smoke at start up and disappears in a few seconds. Just curios if it may be normal for little smoke at start up ? Mine has barely 7 engine hours.
Yeah thats normal. Especially when the unit is cold. Make sure you run the glow plugs before startup.
Cool video, you my struggle easier!👍👍
Thanks for the video. What was the symptoms of the motor that made you clean the injectors. My motor when it’s in high idle it seems like it wants to cut off I have changed both fuel line filters but I have not clean the fuel injectors
sorry for the late reply... The unit was rolled over which requires in a diesel engine to pull all injectors and to rotate the engine to get rid of excess oil buildup in the cylinder so you do not bend a cylinder rod. Sames goes if you hydro lock a gasoline engine. You would pull the spark plug and rotate the engine. Hopefully the engine was shut off just before it sucked in any oil (water). I have saved many diesels this way.
i have a 2 cylinder Z430 Kubota Diesel. do you have or do you know what the drain thumb-screw type thing is supposed to drain, it's below the injector pump, it has 2 flat kinda things, like a flattened out straight wingnut ? to open & close. i only see some dust on end of it when i took it out. . looks like dried antifreeze maybe. is there supposed to be oil in bottom of an injection pump ? i cant't find info on it anywhere.
Sounds like thats the water drain cock. So dried antifreeze sounds right. That is to drain the block when doing a coolant flush or change. Please checkout www.dieselparts.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Z482-Z602-D722-D902.pdf and goto page 12. Does this look like what you are talking about?
Would loss of power and engine stalling be a sign of a bad injector? There’s a 3 cup Perkins in my cat mini ex, wondering if I should try this
Yes that's usually a sign. Do you have a lot of smoke out of the exhaust as well?
rosincore no heavy smoke but sounds kind of like a miss fire. Thanks for the reply I appreciate it
Cover the open fuel valves or you're going to get dirt in them
Dirt has no effect on mine it lives in the dirt
@@YourMom-mq4zc good luck with that. You're obviously a professionally trained mechanic
На який тиск вприскування форсунок ви налаштовували?
Тиск в форсунках не міняв. Я зберіг прокладки так само.
Probably a stupid question but why does each injector need to be labelled? Are they not interchangeable? Thanks!
The only reason i labeled them is because i re used the copper gasket. Ends up that i needed to buy new ones as the old washer leaked and caused blow by. It was bubbling outside around the injector. You should always buy new crush washers every time your remove and replace your injectors. the bobcat part number is 6655218
Great video 👍 I just bought a Small tractor, with have the same engine and I have to crank a LOT and after a lot of smoke it finally starts. Do you think it the injectors? I changed the fuel filter already.
Make sure if it has glow plugs to run them for 10-15 seconds. Make sure there is fuel getting to the injectors .
Usually smoke would indicate that you are at least getting fuel in the cylinder, black smoke usually indicates an over-fueled or under-aired condition. I would pre-heat the glowplugs for 30 seconds or so. Make sure your battery is fully charged.. Most of the time this will get it to start if there is not another problem. After trying that method a couple of times if it still won't start I would go ahead and check the air filter and then crack the injector lines at the injectors to make sure they are getting fuel.
@@rosincore Thanks, I’ll check the glow plugs next, I usually run them for at least 30 secs. The air filter is new, and yes,there is a lot of black smoke when it fires. Then, I’ll check fuel at the injectors for sure. Thanks again.
@rosincore Yes I concur; Using the glow-plugs often despite that they are intended for cold-weather then keep battery up as best possible and replace filters as often as budget can allow … Messik's can provide branded Kubota parts an Eddie Kennell responded promptly
MESSICK'S Parts Technician, Team Leader
187 Merts Drive, Elizabethtown, PA 17022
Direct Line: 717.361.4834 | 717.367.6662 fax → Anything that can be done to avoid knock-off imitation parts is needful despite any and whatever your mechanic ability ~ Currently older older tractors are "worth their weight in gold" so see Louis Rossmann on Right to Repair as he has taken the lead in this battle despite that his style is not mine
Did you fix it?
@@prevost8686 ,
Yes, found that there was no power going to the glow plugs. Thx for asking
Where did you find the torque spec for all the bolts removed?
The workshop manual from kubota. They have everything you need for information.
A copy for example
www.kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Engines/&file=SM-E2B%20series.pdf
Well I will be. I am changing the injectors in a kubota 5 cylinder, they are stuck so I thought I'd check out this video to see how you pulled them out...... Um, you skipped the only part I wanted to see.
I am sorry about that, I just used a 1/2" breaker bar with 22mm socket to break them loose.
Good should have be close today
Do you know the torque settings for the injectors ?
Nozzle holder assembly 37 to 50ftlb
@@rosincore Thanks for that
@@peter12266 ж.
Nice video. Is there a copper washer that goes on the bottom side of the injector in the injector bore of the head?
yes PN: 6655218 is considered a gasket and should be replaced every time you remove the injectors.
I need a new kubota 3 cylinder. Anybody here to help me fond one in Florida?
Was that a bobcat Mt52?
Mt85
@@rosincore I got a question about the same issue you had here
One of my employees laid my minix on its side and let it set thst way for 30 minutes he got it pushed back up right waited 30 minutes and tried cranking it He says it took 30 minutes of trying to start it to finally start Then he ran it pretty hard for a couple hours He never told anyone and failed to call me and report the roll over It now runs fine but puffs white smoke and it seems to have crank case pressure
Is there anything I can do to stop the smoke Seems like it runs fine other than the white smoke and high crack case pressure
This is a 2019 kabota K008-3
Fuel rail 🤣😂🤣 you mean fuel lines. Wrong fuel delivery system for a rail.
Its kind of a rail hahaha. haha your right
And setting the pop off pressure?? Video is a total con, the description of a vacuum line is totally wrong. No vacuum present there, it is a leak off pipe.
I was just showing removal and re installation. Not modifying pop pressure. That would be a whole different video explaining shims and pressures. Yes I know I mis spoke. You are correct with the pipe. Sorry I made a mistake.