Ford Explorer 5.0L Water Pump Replacement Procedure
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- Опубліковано 9 жов 2015
- The only water pump I trust is Motorcraft:
You can grab the new pump Here-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
If Ford is not available I go with AC Delco Professional version-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Radiator Hose remover I used-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005...
Pneumatic Fan Clutch Wrench I used-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Thread sealant used-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Medium strength Blue Loctite-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Any quality green coolant is ok but Motorcraft VC-5 is spec-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Most thorough cheapest way to refill and burp the cooling system-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001...
Here is the bolt locations-
i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b...
Serpentine belt routing-
i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b...
My method for cleaning gasket surfaces-
• My Best Method For Cle...
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Thanks for this great video. I had just got done replacing the pump in my wife's 11 durango when my 99 explorer pump started talking to me. Needless to say, I wasn't too motivated to do another pump, especially knowing how tight things are in there. This video and narration is much better than most out there, and a real confidence builder. Thanks again.
Sir... You're a god damn saint. I just got a 1998 Ford explorer and the water pump went out on it. Im going to have this video going in my garage as I do the job alongside you. Thank you!
Once again, you've produced a fantastically in-depth, professional and over all informative video from start to finish. I own a 2001 Ford Explorer 5.0L V8 Limited (AWD), and these things get rusty to say the least. I refuse to get rid of it, so videos like the ones you produce are truly a blessing.
Thank you so much for all your effort and time spent teaching us ( less informed folks ; ) ) how to repair our Fords. Wishing you and yours the very best, and a Happy Thanksgiving. Thanks again FordTechMakuloco!
I tried removing my water pump and the two long bolts were stuck just as you showed prior to 12:08. I wiggled one back and forth and was successful however the other one broke just below the head leaving the shank and threaded part stuck. I had to remove the timing chain cover which proved rather difficult because as I inspected the cover later, I found that a ton of corrosion had built up in the passage around the bolt shank. The bolt shank had belled out wedging it in place and holding the cover against the block. With some prying and a few choice words I was able to get the cover out a bit and wiggle it back and forth until the bolt broke a second time. I had to use a punch to remove the shank from the cover and fortunately the threaded part in the block came out rather easily. I had to drill out the corrosion with a drill bit. I believe the gasket had failed eons ago and flooded the passage around the bolt shank causing it to corrode. I also found quite a bit of pitting around the impeller housing. As you are reviewing the condition of the bolts at 15:30, my advice would be to also inspect the passage ways in the cover and remove any corrosion. I own a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer AWD with the 5.0.
Thank you, and yes this video definitely helped. I'm not excited about changing the water pump during winter; but at least my Husband won't have to do it alone. Thanks to you, I can make him a list of everything he needs to be successful at changing the water pump.
To keep the bolts in order, I use a piece of cardboard labeled for what part it is, and put the bolts in a similar position on the cardboard.
The 5.0L pushrod engines are easier than the modulars to work on.
The only reason why the 5.0 can be a pain in the ass to work on is when it's on the tightly spaced engine compartment of Gen 2 Explorer. But I do agree, very easy engine to work on overall.
Just wait till the timing chain guides break in the back on that 4.6 then say that comment
Sry I misread your comment. I thought you were referring to the 2nd gen 4.0 sohc
Would love to see a video on how to deal with common problems (like removing corroded bolts, broken bolts, stripped stuff, and thread repair). If you have the time and energy that would be great!!!! ;p
I remember back in the 70s a neighbor had a 73 Torino with a 302. That engine was tiny back in the day compared to the 351, 400 and 429. There was a ton of room under that hood with that engine. Things have certainly changed. Just did a water pump on my 94 Astro, similar idea. Only 2 years on an AZ pump which I usually don't gamble on items like this, had almost 10 years out of the prior ACDelco pump. Wised back up and put in an ACDelco pump this time which will last a whole lot longer.
You're video is absolutely awesome. When you look into the engine compartment the water pump replacement looks horrifying, but your step by step video took the terroir out of it. Thanks so much, keep up the great work
Great video! I just replaced the water pump on my 2000 Eddie Bauer Explorer and your video was the best reference I found anywhere. I only had to torch out one of those stubborn bolts, so consider myself very fortunate! Thanks for sharing your expertise with the rest of us.
I love doing 302 water pumps. Always keep those bolts in the old pump so you know where they go and it's not even a bad job.
how long does the job take?
how long would it take a shop to do it?
Now would be a really good time to change out your thermostat and fan clutch. Your new water pump and radiator will thank you.
You explained details others missed. Not break bolts by working in and out. Sealant on bolts. Flush block. Thanks. I have a leaking radiator to replace, and will replace the trans cooler, thermostat, and water pump while I'm in there. Hope it's a good idea to replace the water pump, broken bolts?????
Thanks for these videos
awesome video this will help my a lot i think my pumps bearing are bad. its making a high pitched squeal and kicking on the check engine light also notice a power lose
Great Video! Thanks for sharing these really good Tips and Tricks. I learn a lot each time I watch any of your videos. Really great videos with awesome Tips and Tricks. Thank You. -- I am thinking since this was a 1997 and some of the hoses look like OEM - I might spend a little more and replace all the hoses like you did. I think you did - not sure about the large bottom hose from the pump hosing --. Question - have you experienced fan belt noise or failures if old fan belts aren't put back on the same direction as they came off. Don't think it matters when using a new belt.
oh ok. just curious. btw I really enjoy your videos. I am a Ford guy myself. I have worked at a Ford dealer prior to my current job. I grew up around fords.
Very detailed step-by-step video thank you. I am surprised that the job did not require new hoses. This would be the time definitely to do the lower two hoses on the oil cooler and the water pump. Plus the upper hose just for good measure.
brother you incredible , you have passion and truly are a great teacher ,
+Chuck Thanks!
FordTechMakuloco hey bud where is the temp gauge send unit on the explorer 5.0?
Thanks for making a very good tutorial.
Very good your video, very enlightening, helped a lot. I wish successes friend!
Awesome video with clear and understandable instructions. Thanks for the time you put into it!! I had a little trouble getting that fan loose, but it's a 1997.
Dang - that 36 mm pneumatic wrench took that fan clutch right out…
lol... Oct 10 playing xmas music already???? good tutorial thx
Brian, I know how to do a oil change, most everyone knows I'm sure, but wouldn't it be nice if you did a video on a new 5.0L F150 engine step by step oil change, spark plug change etc. I think those would be popular videos. Most everything done now has to do with the 3.5L eco-boost, there is hardly anything on the 5.0L, what do you think? Enjoy all your videos, great videos.
As an owner of a 5.0 coyote motor in an F150 Platinum, I Think that would be a great idea!
You the man. Thanks this video helps a lot
Excellent walkthrough
Great work. 10 years ago i e
Would have done for sure. Older now.
now I'll just get the parts, it's a good video thanks
7:30 the music in my head when working on a Ford
Thank you!
Do you have any suggestions on replacing the lower water pump hose without taking the pump off? My hose literally exploded and trying to replace it without having to redo gasket etc.
Thanks a big help.
Great video man! Question-should I replace the thermostat too? Thx again
+QBANBELAIR Good timing to do one yes.
FoMoCo - Made with Pride in China!
I did a 5.0 Long ago and I'm pretty sure one of the long bolts snapped.
Surprised you didn't replace the thermostat, with something that age and in that position I would think its worth 15.00 bucks to replace but that's the customers call. Yeah that sucks working on OLD rusted vehicles and bolts frozen, I did the water pump a few years ago on my 96 Grand Cherokee 5.2 and while I was in there replaced the bypass hose, thermostat and all radiator and heater hoses, heater core hoses are factory formed and not cheap, Jeep has a few PITA brackets but fortunately no seized bolts for me, just used Permatex 2 for reassembly. A problem like you had can turn a 3 hr job into a 6 hr job. When I replaced the steering box on the Jeep I ran into a broken bolt problem with the air box so now it has 2 instead of 3, not going anywhere with only 2.
+jim dandy This is an old video but I am thinking it was done recently hence the nice green coolant.
Good video! I wish I had the time and money to grab up one of those era Explorer 5.0s The compact front accessory drives make an ideal engine swap canidate for my Ranger....lol. Oh well, never will happen.
All of the u-pull its around me here in northern IL usually have around 3-5 5.0 Explorers at one time. The complete engine cost $250-$300 depending on yard. I plan on doing a 5.0 Ranger one of these days too.
+CVTaxi yea, there's quite a few around here in the yards too. Just the time, space, and money factor and the thought of pulling a perfectly good running 4.0 pretty much puts the brakes on that project. Lol
Great video well one good sir but how did you get the fan off without everything turning ???? did you hold something to make sure nothing would spin ????
Could you list the torque specs for the water pump
Change the name of this channel to money saver. All you do is save me cash!
+Bigchuck678 That's the point.
how many bolts on the water pump housing 8 or 7??
I'm doing this for 1997 Ford Taurus - the shop manual says use [Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-1 9B508-AA (ES R-M 11 P17-A and ESE-M2G52-A ] but I'm not sure to put it now. Should I just use a little bit of motor oil to make it stick? If not what sealant should I use
What year Explorer was this done on and how many miles? I have a 1996 5.0L and I am worried about snapping the bolts. I can't afford that.
What are the odds of them snapping?
To remove the fan you need a 36mm wrench. Do you think a pipe wrench or adjustable wrench fit in the space? I don't have a wrench that large.
No they are too thick maybe a regular open end wrench with fan bolts removed but it's tight
good video, you get the replaced water pump from which supplier? I know a chinese supplier, named chogqing feilong jiangli, supply water pump, oil dipsticks.
I know this may sound silly. But my 2000 5.0 ford explorer's rad. fan has cracked all the around the hub. So I'm going to replace it. I see no video's on how to do this. I'm just wondering is there any thing I should know in particular before I attempt to pull it off? Do I need to remove the shroud? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've checked all over the web and nobody gives and example. Thanks for your time. Sincerely, Jack.
hey i know this is off topic to the video but i have a 2006 ford explorer 4x4. i went to change my rear differential fluid in my truck i used ramps to roll the truck back onto. got up into it and couldn't fit my 3/4inch drive to in between the differential housing and the plate that comes down. do you have any recommendations for removing the 3/4inch drain plug on my truck.
i have owned a 2003, different generations small changes were made but did not have the same problem.
I tried a couple months back to change out my water pump on my 98 mercury mountaineer and rented the tool from AutoZone to take it off but when I went to turn it off the pulley on the water pump would move with it. And I just watched the video and it was the closest one to my vehicle great video gonna go try to change it again lol. Any advice on that about the pulley spinning when I go to turn the clutch fan to get it off?
bro.... i just went through the same thing today. i gave up it's at the shop. lol
+Ronald Hartley Brake lose the bolt before you remove the belt?
Im trying to do the fan right now on this truck, but the WP pulley keeps moving and the tool kit I rented doesnt seem to help. any tips?
May you please tell me the product you used on the surface of the water pump? The black stuff is used to stick the paper gasket on. Is it RTV silicon sealant? Thank you
Just a small amount a few dabs here and there of this sealant- amzn.to/2nvtvcL
I have ONE question: I recently did a 4.0 swap on an explorer because the chain jumped a tooth or two. I see that this radiator is similar. does ford say remove all three radiators at once? or as I did, can you remove them one by one.
+Charlie Gates on the newer explorers they come off as a unit the older ones you remove them one at a time.
OK, what is the pipe that comes out of the part that the thermostat is in that the heater hose is attatched to? Mine crapped out and I had to use a hose spliter with some radiator sealent on it, had to mallet it in there. No one seems to know what it is called, nor do I know how it is seated in there. When I went to the parts store the picture they had of the part that you put the thermostat in to bolt it to the motor did not have the little pipe in it.
Good video. Are you back at the dealer now?
+GREG Feeney No this is some old old video I am finally getting to editing.
The delco pumps look to be same china junk as all the others. Are they really any better? Motorcraft is unavailable other than ebay for double price.
I don't see a link for the thread sealant you used. One of my 4 water pump bolts needs sealant, so I just used the Form A Gasket 2 (non hardening) on that bolt; same as I use on both sides of the gaskets. Done that for years on different cars and makes of cars with no trouble. But I'm curious about the thread sealant you used. Thanks!
+JRobert111111 This is the stuff I use on any bolts requiring thread sealant-www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEOP0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002UEOP0&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=FYW4ODO2H4A6TMLC
+FordTechMakuloco Thank you!
Hey man, I replaced the pump and there is still a leak coming from behind the pump base, not sure if there is another part between the pump and the block that has a broken gasket or seal. I think it's right on the area of the top long bolt, below the thermostat housing. Is there another piece between the pump and block? Any idea where this is coming from and a solution?
Same thing with mine, replaced pump, still had leak at top of pump near head gasket, welling up in area near top of pump, re-tightened bolts and leak ceased for 2 months, now running a steady stream...
Sounds like the timing chain cover gasket, that's what I'm currently fixing at the moment.
what if the pulley an fan spin when you try to loosen it an the belt still on ti create a lil resistance?
+treyvonnie1 Best way is to use the pneumatic fan clutch kit but otherwise you are supposed to use a holder tool and a fan nut wrench.
what size of socket do I need for that tensioner??
fan to water pump connection is a regular left hand thread?
Question, I have a 1997 mercury mountaineer with 90 k miles. The bearing in the water pump is bad. Since you have done this job and are a professional. What would be a replacement cost to put in a new water pump parts and labor 🤔? I do appreciate your time. Just wanna figure out the quote so I can decide to do it my self or take it Into the shop.
Well, I wouldn't do one for less than 2.5hrs at the shop labor rate. Then there is the quality of the part and its cost you have to consider, probably close to $500 with coolant.
I'm disappointed that your footage got corrupted. Those problems that you described make a video more interesting and educational. Where was this shot? Sounds like you are back in a shop with the hammering and music in the background.
+eldoradony It was very interesting actually but it is lost. I am not back at the shop this is some old old video I am finally getting to editing.
Great video Brian, but I would have replaced every single hose, just saying. Keep the videos coming. Thanks
+Roland Gutierrez As stated the one I clean was no longer made a very large size difference from one side to the other we looked no one had one aftermarket. Also this was a senior citizen on a budget.
Bet that rusty hose clamp would of broke the budget to replace
Are the 2015-ish f150 with 5.0L timing chain driven water pumps?
Personally I would use new hoses.
+srercrcr Yes me too but that particular hose I cleaned was an oddball size where one side was much larger than the other to fit onto the oil cooler and was no longer made by Ford and not available aftermarket in our area anyway.
+FordTechMakuloco Yeah, you know I go through some unavailable things now with my 96 Grand Cherokee, lots of mopar parts discontinued but I found an excellent Jeep dealer in TX named Berry Jeep and they have a great selection of NOS parts, fortunately hoses I can still get at Napa, just heater core are mopar custom formed
How does that wire connect on right side if at front looking at engine..I can't see it but it FEELS like it connects like the cap on a spark plug BUT it will not disconnect..someone please help
how do those long bolts get so rusty? where's the water?
+SilentServiceCode Oh it seeps over the years.
Will it work for my 1993 F150 5.0?
Brian it sounds like you are working in a shop. Did I miss something? I haven't watched anything for the last month or so.
+Jim Jones No this is some old old video I am finally getting to editing.
so how do u get the clutch nut off when pump is bad and belt is busted
See Here- amzn.to/2dZD7t1
do I have to lift the motor in order to change the oil pump
05 f150 5.4
+Immanuel blocker No on the ones I have done you simply unbolt it and slide it off, oil pan even stays on.
Is 1998 ford explorer 5.0 v8 4wd a good buy or has alot of issues
I have a 99 5.0 AWD that I bought about 8 years ago. It had 202K on it. Now it has 355K on it. Had to replace the front driveshaft on it so far and one ignition coil. Other than that it's been great
@@Flathead-fb5tk nice
@@Flathead-fb5tk bought my first awd 5.0 with 125k miles. Drove it to 260k when the timing cover rear gasket gave up. Wasn’t worth my time to fix knowing how bad that fix can be. Still drove just fine. Parted it out. Bought my second right after that with 99k on the clock. Old man owned it since new. This one will last me 10 years at least. I love the 2nd gen 5.0 explorers. They’re nearly bulletproof.
Are you working back in a shop, lots of back ground noise. Someone hammering on something?
+Steve Matthias No old video they were beating on a Dodge Ram for hours.
Sounded like someone was pulling off a rotor in the background.
+EarMode They were beating off a hub and bearing on a Dodge Ram for hours.
Ram tough till the end I guess.
I can't get the fan loose. Help
what do I do if I cannot get my fan off of the water pump
I’m having the same issue
seriously Christmas music must be in all the video from when you worked at the dealership just getting around to editing it for UA-cam I hope anyways are you're trying to rush Christmas since it's only October lol
+Mike Plants You nailed it old footage for sure.
I did fucked up one of my longe bolts and i can't take it out somebody can help me please
I can’t get my radiator fan off at all
it doesn't just spin and drop
I would have changed the thermostat while I was there
Good video
the hammering was a guy working on 2004 f350 due to frustration......
Nope a Dodge Ram 2500 actually
removing and axle?
hub and bearing they stick real bad on those.
makes total sense:)
My friend I’m going to need you help again. I replaced the fan clutch on my 07 Ford Explorer, because it was constantly on. Fluids are good and full, it doesn’t overheat. It’s like the clutch is stuck on..
what can I do?
Check out my video to see :
ua-cam.com/video/pX1fLxCBr0s/v-deo.html
Thanks
I did one today ragedy ass ford