This has been debated a lot online for a little while right now. And honestly, yes or no. That's something that should be observed by someone who is changing their brakes. First, even the Nissan/Infiniti service manual makes no mention of doing that. I even have some other ones from other manufacturers and none say you have to, but I know some do out there. I have done hundreds of brakes on German, American, Japanese, Korean manufacturers, and never had an issue. But that doesn't mean nothing can happen. So when should you open the bleeder? The ONLY 2 times that damage can happen to the ABS unit or Master Cylinder is when there is a pressure buildup outside operating specifications, or if there is dirt/foreign contamination. If you open the brake fluid cover on the top, as long as you don't have a pinched metal line (which then you have another problem anyways), you should not ever have a pressure build up. As for contamination, that is for someone to observe. Brake systems are contained units, and if maintained and bleed at some point, should not have any dirt in the system. But if you have a busted caliper piston boot, leaking brake line, or anything like that where foreign material can be introduced, then you should absolutely open the bleeder screw to prevent damage, but then you should also be repairing the issue and bleeding the system anyways. And even then, since these videos are for do-it-yourselfers and not techs, opening the bleeder has more risk for introducing air into the system vs the chances of anything damaging the ABS or Master Cylinder. That being said, if you know what you're doing and feel comfortable with opening the system, there is absolutely nothing wrong with opening the bleeder to recess the piston. Sorry, I know this is a lengthy reply, but it comes up often, and this is MY OPINION on something that even manufacturers don't always recommend (and I don't even see trained techs doing).
@@NexusAuto We only opened the bleeder screw to ensure there was no air in the brake lines, then closed them again. Pushed back the brake pistons with it closed, resulting in a "ABS error" code on our next scan. However, we cleared all the scan codes, rebooted the code reader and no more "ABS error" code was reported. Success and we saved a lot of money. Thanks for your detailed response. You Da Man.
@thunderheart7072 no problem at all. Really awesome news that everything went so well (and you had a scanner handy too). Thanks for the great feedback!
Tell me, did you put pads from Opel on Chevrolet, as I understand it? Since the pads on the Chevrolet are a little different, as I see from the video, are they also suitable for the Opel?
What's your thoughts on machining or turning the rotors, if not replacing? i believe it is just more good preventative maintenance, also assuming there is no warping or pedal/steering wheel pulsating... I found it helps those new pad "break-in" procedures and for lower noise....ALL BRAKES CAN SQUEAK, EVEN WHEN ALL IS BRAND NEW, MUCH OF IT MATTERS ON HOW THE CUSTOMER DRIVES.... But most of these opinions are from when i was a Midas Man.... I've done lots of brake and exhaust jobs over the years... we always tried to sell rotor machining (if possible) but it is a slow time consuming process, especially for the DIYer... and many of todays' tophat style rotors there is NOT enough material to machine even once... but what's your thoughts on this @nexus?
You said it right at the end there...when I started in automotive, machining was very common. But rotors were heavier with lots of material. The materials in rotors have changed along with their efficiency, so there is not as much material to work with. I know shop machining is still out there, but I rarely see any of my local shops offer it anymore. Some small mom and pop shops don't offer it at all. I agree with your points. Pending there is no damage, warping, or hot spots, then machining is a good option. We still can check rotor thickness and runout, so it is still worth doing. However I haven't done it myself in years. It just doesn't even come up anymore. Additionally, rotors are cheap enough that people rarely consider machining. I feel like rotor machining is like carburetor tuning, cap and rotor replacement, packing bearings, etc...they are becoming a lost art. Not many people even know how to do those things these days.
@@NexusAuto ultimately (for me) its probably my OCD of doing things right... but i think i would only "pad slap" if I was getting rid of the vehicle or i could see doing a super cheap set of basic pads, if pay day was a ways out and needed to pass safety inspection.... other than that I would always machine or replace the rotors... rotors are so cheap nowadays anyway... Or do it all again right with new rotors and ceramic pads when payday rolls around. Its the OCD of knowing my brakes are as quiet as possible and should last long time... and before covid hit... I actually spent a few extra pennies and put all 4 dimpled race rotors on my Grand Prix... But i stopped Uber driving in March, not worth it, so I I may never know how quiet they are when they reach the heat of stop n go taxi style driving... but i like them none the less!
Thanks for another great video ! You are a great teacher ! I have a question I hope you can get back with me on ! I have a 2013 GMC Terrain AWD needs front pads ! If I force the caliper piston back will the fluid forcing back through the line mess up any sensors on my abs from the reverse pressure
Thanks Gary. I really appreciate the feedback and support! The answer to your question is a controversial one, to be honest LOL. I have an official answer and an unofficial one. Officially, it could potentially damage the abs unit. Additionally, if you or a shop tops up the brake fluid with regular maintenance, then you have to be careful not to overflow the brake fluid reservoir. Unofficially, I have taken the 'risk' and have never opened the caliper bleeder to push the caliper back and have never had anything on the brake system fail. The chances of something going wrong is very very small. However, something could still theoretically go wrong. But honestly, I have never had anything go wrong with the ABS unit on any car i've worked on.
@@NexusAuto Thank you so much for giving me a quick answer back ! You are the man ,I really appreciate all of your great educational videos ! You just have no idea how much they help an old broke retired electrician! That spent most of his life with a screw driver and Klein’s. Never did spin those wrenches ,never had the talent or patience! You are a savior for all the DIY population! Great job AND THANK YOU 🙏🙏🙏 🤝🤝🤝
@@garylam6233 Gary, I can't thank you enough for what you said. Things like this is why I keep making the videos and always respond to people. I'm happy to hear the vids help out so much. I haven't made some in a bit, but I plan to start making videos again shortly. Thank you!
@@NexusAuto Thank you I owe you ,because if I wasn’t Using your knowledge ,it’s no way I could even attempt this project ! I don’t think you realize how much DIY people like myself , depend on you ! And most other videos aren’t done like yours ,you know how to convey your information. You’re the Best ,I will support you and Recommend your channel to everyone I know ! Hope to see more from Nexus In the future ! Thanks again
Thanks for sharing...nice video
@@carmenspina7967 thank you, I appreciate the feedback
Shouldn't the brake bleeder screw be opened before forcing back the brake caliper piston to prevent expensive damage to the ABS system ?
This has been debated a lot online for a little while right now. And honestly, yes or no. That's something that should be observed by someone who is changing their brakes.
First, even the Nissan/Infiniti service manual makes no mention of doing that. I even have some other ones from other manufacturers and none say you have to, but I know some do out there.
I have done hundreds of brakes on German, American, Japanese, Korean manufacturers, and never had an issue.
But that doesn't mean nothing can happen. So when should you open the bleeder?
The ONLY 2 times that damage can happen to the ABS unit or Master Cylinder is when there is a pressure buildup outside operating specifications, or if there is dirt/foreign contamination.
If you open the brake fluid cover on the top, as long as you don't have a pinched metal line (which then you have another problem anyways), you should not ever have a pressure build up.
As for contamination, that is for someone to observe. Brake systems are contained units, and if maintained and bleed at some point, should not have any dirt in the system. But if you have a busted caliper piston boot, leaking brake line, or anything like that where foreign material can be introduced, then you should absolutely open the bleeder screw to prevent damage, but then you should also be repairing the issue and bleeding the system anyways.
And even then, since these videos are for do-it-yourselfers and not techs, opening the bleeder has more risk for introducing air into the system vs the chances of anything damaging the ABS or Master Cylinder.
That being said, if you know what you're doing and feel comfortable with opening the system, there is absolutely nothing wrong with opening the bleeder to recess the piston.
Sorry, I know this is a lengthy reply, but it comes up often, and this is MY OPINION on something that even manufacturers don't always recommend (and I don't even see trained techs doing).
@@NexusAuto We only opened the bleeder screw to ensure there was no air in the brake lines, then closed them again. Pushed back the brake pistons with it closed, resulting in a "ABS error" code on our next scan. However, we cleared all the scan codes, rebooted the code reader and no more "ABS error" code was reported. Success and we saved a lot of money. Thanks for your detailed response. You Da Man.
@thunderheart7072 no problem at all. Really awesome news that everything went so well (and you had a scanner handy too). Thanks for the great feedback!
Tell me, did you put pads from Opel on Chevrolet, as I understand it? Since the pads on the Chevrolet are a little different, as I see from the video, are they also suitable for the Opel?
These are Opel brake pads. I don't have a cross reference chart for Opel cars, so couldn't say for sure if these pads would also work on an Opel.
What's your thoughts on machining or turning the rotors, if not replacing?
i believe it is just more good preventative maintenance, also assuming there is no warping or pedal/steering wheel pulsating... I found it helps those new pad "break-in" procedures and for lower noise....ALL BRAKES CAN SQUEAK, EVEN WHEN ALL IS BRAND NEW, MUCH OF IT MATTERS ON HOW THE CUSTOMER DRIVES....
But most of these opinions are from when i was a Midas Man.... I've done lots of brake and exhaust jobs over the years... we always tried to sell rotor machining (if possible) but it is a slow time consuming process, especially for the DIYer... and many of todays' tophat style rotors there is NOT enough material to machine even once... but what's your thoughts on this @nexus?
You said it right at the end there...when I started in automotive, machining was very common. But rotors were heavier with lots of material. The materials in rotors have changed along with their efficiency, so there is not as much material to work with. I know shop machining is still out there, but I rarely see any of my local shops offer it anymore. Some small mom and pop shops don't offer it at all.
I agree with your points. Pending there is no damage, warping, or hot spots, then machining is a good option. We still can check rotor thickness and runout, so it is still worth doing.
However
I haven't done it myself in years. It just doesn't even come up anymore. Additionally, rotors are cheap enough that people rarely consider machining.
I feel like rotor machining is like carburetor tuning, cap and rotor replacement, packing bearings, etc...they are becoming a lost art. Not many people even know how to do those things these days.
@@NexusAuto ultimately (for me) its probably my OCD of doing things right... but i think i would only "pad slap" if I was getting rid of the vehicle or i could see doing a super cheap set of basic pads, if pay day was a ways out and needed to pass safety inspection.... other than that I would always machine or replace the rotors... rotors are so cheap nowadays anyway...
Or do it all again right with new rotors and ceramic pads when payday rolls around.
Its the OCD of knowing my brakes are as quiet as possible and should last long time... and before covid hit... I actually spent a few extra pennies and put all 4 dimpled race rotors on my Grand Prix... But i stopped Uber driving in March, not worth it, so I I may never know how quiet they are when they reach the heat of stop n go taxi style driving... but i like them none the less!
Thanks for another great video !
You are a great teacher !
I have a question I hope you can get back with me on !
I have a 2013 GMC Terrain AWD needs front pads !
If I force the caliper piston back will the fluid forcing back through the line mess up any sensors on my abs from the reverse pressure
Thanks Gary. I really appreciate the feedback and support!
The answer to your question is a controversial one, to be honest LOL. I have an official answer and an unofficial one.
Officially, it could potentially damage the abs unit. Additionally, if you or a shop tops up the brake fluid with regular maintenance, then you have to be careful not to overflow the brake fluid reservoir.
Unofficially, I have taken the 'risk' and have never opened the caliper bleeder to push the caliper back and have never had anything on the brake system fail. The chances of something going wrong is very very small. However, something could still theoretically go wrong. But honestly, I have never had anything go wrong with the ABS unit on any car i've worked on.
@@NexusAuto Thank you so much for giving me a quick answer back !
You are the man ,I really appreciate all of your great educational videos !
You just have no idea how much they help an old broke
retired electrician!
That spent most of his life with a screw driver and Klein’s.
Never did spin those wrenches ,never had the talent or patience!
You are a savior for all the
DIY population!
Great job
AND THANK YOU
🙏🙏🙏
🤝🤝🤝
@@garylam6233 Gary, I can't thank you enough for what you said. Things like this is why I keep making the videos and always respond to people. I'm happy to hear the vids help out so much. I haven't made some in a bit, but I plan to start making videos again shortly. Thank you!
@@NexusAuto
Thank you
I owe you ,because if I wasn’t
Using your knowledge ,it’s no way I could even attempt this project !
I don’t think you realize how much DIY people like myself ,
depend on you !
And most other videos aren’t done like yours ,you know how to convey your information.
You’re the Best ,I will support you and Recommend your channel to everyone I know !
Hope to see more from Nexus
In the future !
Thanks again