Nice practical repair and the main thing is you saved it. I use self tapping screws to cinch it all down, then you can remove one by one and weld the hole shut.
Back when I was a young driver, floor rust was a common problem in the 60s and 70s cars. In one car I paid a welder to weld a stout metal plate in the drivers area around the pedals. When the passenger side rotted out, I didn't have the money to pay them so I just got a double thick sheet of aluminum from the hardware store and formed it to the shape of the metal and used self-tapping screws. Held up just as well as the iron plate at a fraction of the cost! This repair you did looks solid enough, the gauge of the metal seems a little thin to me but that's pretty much the same with everything nowadays, nice job! By the way, the number one cause of all this floor rust back then was the windshield to body seals were terrible, and pretty much all the cars leaked, soaked the carpeting, and before you knew it... rust everywhere.
I've watched two of your videos. Gives me some confidence in my first floor pan repair job on my Vista Cruiser. I've done a lot of mechanical work, but not much sheet metal work. New subscriber here!
After the demonstration of the strength of the floorpan with rivet fasteners, and the flash of the boots, I was like - gonna have to sub.. lol good job man, made it look easy
Good job Jake! Glad to see you’re done with the floor pans. I’m almost done welding in the new pans on my ‘65 Mustang project, then it’s seam seal and epoxy prime!
Solid work! No need to take to heart what anyone says about the pop rivets. Typically the most vocal critics are posers or weekend warriors who think there is only one way to do something. Really enjoyed your video! Subscribed.
This is awesome man! I have a 1967 myself I bought for $300 back in August, but is in a lot better shape than yours. I’m really looking forward to see what you’re going to do with this thing! Maybe we can share some different tips we find. Im getting ready to work on the floor pans and the engine bay. I’ve just taken the car completely apart and the dash was a mess and I’ve taken the windows out. Your videos stand out with the amount that you show and explain keep it up!
Awesome it's funny I'm trying to repair the floor in my 77' Cougar. The passenger side behind the front seat rusted out. The rest of the car is clean so hopefully it's not to big of a process.
Let's see, not how the car was built, not perfect and if someday someone wants to made it perfect will need to be replaced. That being said, repairs you made will keep the car alive and on the road for years to come and that's a kool deal. Looking forward to more videos like this one.👌👌
I hear you on the pop rivets-they are super strong-I found 4-5 panels pop riveted in the floor of my 65 Chevelle only because I was upgrading the seats-had I not of pulled the carpet back I wouldve thought they were welded in-only thing that sucks is I cant leave them that way so im currently fixing it
@@CarGroves O for sure-I picked up the metal and floor pans today-Im lucky and have a National Parts Depot 30 mins from me-gonna be cutting and welding this weekend!
dude cool video. after seeing how strong that floor was with those rivets i fixes my floor pan im my 78 ford f100 with rivets. i spaced the rivets 1 inch apart from each other all the way around and dude its sturdy as hell
@@CarGroves i didnt caulk the seams but i bought some of that seam sealer from summit racing and went around it with that. i put 3 coats of good primer on it and under it. then i painted the floor with rustoleum gloss black.
I pop rivet all of my floor pan jobs and never weld them. On floor boards with the center rusted out I use roll galvanized metal you buy at hardware stores. The spot under the metal I pop rivet on I smear bearing grease, then on the top I use bearing grease for my seam sealer, then use RV rubber tape to tape over the seams, in where only the center of the tape will sat on top of the grease at that seam. Then use pickup bed liner paint over all the floor boards, and the same paint under the car. My way will outlast all the pros in the world. And for cars with rust all over the floor boards that arent rusted through, I smear bearing grease all over them and then put large plastic trash bags over them.
Planes are rivotted:) btw once you get an air powered rivot gun you NEVER go back. Also an electric or air hand metal sheer really work nice for cutting patches over a disk grinder . Great video
Anything can be fixed with enough time and $$$ :) Normally I wouldn't work on something this rusty, but that patina just looks so good. Good luck on your project!
Depending on your purpose for the build ofc. I’m taking this route because I just wanna run it already. In the future, if I want a show build, then maybe I’ll do it right next time. But for the money, you can’t go wrong
I still have yet to replace the floor on my '67 Cougar yet. I am curious as to why rivets instead of self tapping screws. I assume the rivets were left in place?
@@CarGroves I just thought that was a mistake, but yeah it would be nice to have an outro of some sorts, the rather abrupt end is kind of unsettling if you know what I mean
I take it the white Chevrolet Suburban you cut the metal template was a wreck, when I first looked it looked like you've gone out and cut a panel of a perfectly good car
El Camino has a frame, so glue the panels in place. Epoxy, urethane, special metal roof adhesive. Pop rivets will look UGLY every time you look under the car. They should be temporary only to hold panel in place till glue sets
Duuuuude! I have the same exact lamp in my garage as the brown 1 u have in the cab mine has a black n red button on the top right side of the lamp ontop where the bulbs go.
Good job on this often overlooked automobile..... Much classier than a Mustang.... I like using self drilling, drill point , sheet metal screws rather that pop rivets. What about the seat risers? Not going to use them because of your new seats? Will their absence weaken the floors? How about weld in subframe connectors? PS: I have a '68 Cougar XR7 that I have already done much of this same repair work to.... ....RooDog....
A bump shop bear doctoring up an ol' junk yard Cougar. Not Concours d'elegance just a direct and honest driver for the open road. Your channel will do well sir.
Unibody car you’ll have horrible body flex when the floor is the on my thing that tires your front and rear subframe together even planes have structural inside
What sort of welder is used for this type of work? I assume some sort of self feeding welder? I need to do this work; looking for advice on a 110/120 volt welder!
The way I understand it is that the weld through primer leaves the zinc in the weld to help protect the weld and will stay better than normal primer and not contaminate the weld like normal primer.
I've found old gas tanks have the right structural bends that's perfect for patching floor pans. I used to drill out spot welds but not since I bought a Steck 20015. But I suppose most any seam busting chisel will shear right through. I've been watching a guy that grinds through 'em with some sort of narrow belt sander and then uses a seam buster chisel if necessary. Another guy on YT seems to forgo respirators when using a cut-off wheel and I've never seen him don a welding shield either. I have no idea why his eyes aren't blistered and he isn't hacking out half a lung.
Right on bro!! I actually love 71-73, Cougars, I know you think there ugly. They drive great, when there right and tight, they were last Cougars to come down line at Dearborn plant, simultaneously, with Mustangs, and they all have 351C V8 power!! 2 and 4V. But no 250 I6, no 302, No 351W, either. Marti report says all 71-73 Cougars, had cleveland power. A handful of 1971, did have 429cj, power, but nobody, is going to stumble into one for 500 bucks. I'd love it though. So if you can find a 71-73, cat, you will have a stout deliberation to start with. 96 percent are FMX,automatic. All cats are floor shifted, through 1973. 3 percent have C6 automatic trans. And about 1 percent, have a toploader 4speed manual, or 3speed manual. All have bucket seats. All have cool rear sequential turn signals. When your done wrenching, Its every bit as fun to drive as a Mustang, and it's really sweet inside!! Please give Cougars a try people, there being crushed daily, and I think there pretty cool!! Sorry about the rant. Great down to earth repair video, for the home mechanic!!
Great video and gave me a lot of ideas for my grand wagoneer floor when I start replacing it. I'm new to welding. What size welder do you recommend for doing flooring? Thanks.
Considering being on a budget, any advice as to what might be best? I don’t have as big as a problem as this video but I don’t have a welder, would buying one, renting one, or just find a place to do it be best recommended? Enjoyed the video by the way man
What is your plan to address the steel you left under the floor pans? Guaranteed there is a gap between the original steel and the replacement panel that will allow water/dirt to accumulate and continue to rust.
Hello! So, I noticed that you patched some of the rust holes with metal sheets, but is it possible to just rivet on the floor pans, weld them, then call it good? (I'm looking at a 1958 Delray project, and I'm thinking about buying it)
Ok, there’s an auction coming up near me with a 72 nova but the reason I’m looking to get it is because it’ll be cheap. the floor is gone, the rear axel is gone, the only thing there is the body style and the front axel. I’ll likely get it for scrap price but would hate to loose such a cool car, what’s your take on repairing the entire floor?
I'm sad, my great granadpa had a 52 bel air.. after he passed.. his wife.. who has really bad Alzheimer's.. let my uncle convince her to give it to his friend. The friend said there wasnt enough material to weld new pans to.. so he sent it to the junkyard...
The piece you cut off suburban to patch with might be the best thing I've seen in a while! I'm subscribing. 👍
Thanks for the sub!
Caught me totally off guard. 😂
I was in shock 😂😂 I like it lol🤟🤟
instaBlaster
I gasped when i saw that lol
Nice practical repair and the main thing is you saved it. I use self tapping screws to cinch it all down, then you can remove one by one and weld the hole shut.
Thanks for watching!
Yes. Someone had the correct answer. 😊
Back when I was a young driver, floor rust was a common problem in the 60s and 70s cars. In one car I paid a welder to weld a stout metal plate in the drivers area around the pedals. When the passenger side rotted out, I didn't have the money to pay them so I just got a double thick sheet of aluminum from the hardware store and formed it to the shape of the metal and used self-tapping screws. Held up just as well as the iron plate at a fraction of the cost! This repair you did looks solid enough, the gauge of the metal seems a little thin to me but that's pretty much the same with everything nowadays, nice job! By the way, the number one cause of all this floor rust back then was the windshield to body seals were terrible, and pretty much all the cars leaked, soaked the carpeting, and before you knew it...
rust everywhere.
Thanks for this vid! Im about to replace the floor pans in my rusty 67 XR7.
Glad I could help
If you were in Texas, Id help you :)
@@CarGroves I’m in Texas do you have a shop if so how much you charge I suck at paint I’ll always botch it up
I've watched two of your videos. Gives me some confidence in my first floor pan repair job on my Vista Cruiser.
I've done a lot of mechanical work, but not much sheet metal work.
New subscriber here!
Thanks for watching! Take your time.
So Honest and Genuine person. Loved it.
Solid repair man, I'm excited to see how this turns out. Needs a roll bar for all that power you're adding
Thanks for watching! Roller might be in the works later down the line.
I love that baby blue color!
Antique Satin Teal
I don’t usually subscribe but you’ve inspired me to make me believe I can restore a old 60s car I will get one dsy
Love the product overview at end
Hey, no problem.
I've watched dozens of car rebuild shows , you my friend are the real deal . No fiddle'n or f.ing get er done . I'm in 👍
Thanks for watching!
Nice work. Ive always used self drillers, hadnt thought about using rivets.. Never been a ford guy but always loved those cougars. Subbed... 😉
Hi…for that extensive metal replacement I would certainly have put the car on jackstands and leveled it just to make sure everything went in straight.
After the demonstration of the strength of the floorpan with rivet fasteners, and the flash of the boots, I was like - gonna have to sub.. lol good job man, made it look easy
Thanks!
Good job Jake! Glad to see you’re done with the floor pans. I’m almost done welding in the new pans on my ‘65 Mustang project, then it’s seam seal and epoxy prime!
The seam sealing is easy but messy! Good luck and thanks for watching.
Yep, thats gonna be this weekend’s project.
Where did you find the floorpan? Ive been thinking about getting a '65 stang for a project car
Looks soooo much better. Great work!
Solid work! No need to take to heart what anyone says about the pop rivets. Typically the most vocal critics are posers or weekend warriors who think there is only one way to do something. Really enjoyed your video!
Subscribed.
I appreciate that!
You are genuine! Thanks for sharing.
Great job! Will be cool to see this car finished.
Thanks Tiny Garage! Hope to have it running and driving in a couple of months.
Great job 👏👏👏 sir!!! I like how you installed the pans keep up the great work and hold your head high!!! Got me motivated to get started on my floors!
Hell yeah dude, I'm gonna be following this straight up for my 86 Ranger. You've earned a subscriber lol
Thanks Harry
Nice job!
Great video Car Groves!!
Dalen Everson Thank you! It was a lot of work. Took me about 5 days to shoot this video start to finish.
Heck yeah! Keep at her! Can't wait to see the 5.3 in it. Build cars to drive!🤘
Can't wait to rip around in this bad boy.
looks great man, nice to see somebody restores a cougar
Thanks for watching!
Amazing. I always say if it’s been done it can be done again! Can’t wait to have my floors redone🫡🫡🙌🏽
this is the video what i am looking for, thank you.
No problem buddy! Glad you liked it.
GOOD job amigo, you inspired me to do mine
Awesome video. I have some patches in my vw bug I need to weld and you made it less intimidating
No problem, thanks for watching!
fun to watch your work!
This is awesome man! I have a 1967 myself I bought for $300 back in August, but is in a lot better shape than yours. I’m really looking forward to see what you’re going to do with this thing! Maybe we can share some different tips we find. Im getting ready to work on the floor pans and the engine bay. I’ve just taken the car completely apart and the dash was a mess and I’ve taken the windows out. Your videos stand out with the amount that you show and explain keep it up!
Thanks! Its going to take a while but it will be worth it.
Car Groves you’re welcome man! What did you use to remove the paint and surface rust on the floor?
@@eliterivals a flapper sanding wheel on a grinder works the best
Car Groves I’ll try it out tomorrow, thanks!
Helluva job bro keep up the great work
Thanks! Will do!
Very inspiring I just picked up a 64 Fairlane with Flintstone floorboards
No big deal, just order the floors and drop them in and trace :)
I have a 73 cougar I need to do this to. Thanks new subscriber!
Awesome it's funny I'm trying to repair the floor in my 77' Cougar. The passenger side behind the front seat rusted out. The rest of the car is clean so hopefully it's not to big of a process.
Let's see, not how the car was built, not perfect and if someday someone wants to made it perfect will need to be replaced. That being said, repairs you made will keep the car alive and on the road for years to come and that's a kool deal. Looking forward to more videos like this one.👌👌
Thanks for watching!
I hear you on the pop rivets-they are super strong-I found 4-5 panels pop riveted in the floor of my 65 Chevelle only because I was upgrading the seats-had I not of pulled the carpet back I wouldve thought they were welded in-only thing that sucks is I cant leave them that way so im currently fixing it
For a really nice car they should be welded in. For a turd or quick repair, pop rivets are great.
@@CarGroves O for sure-I picked up the metal and floor pans today-Im lucky and have a National Parts Depot 30 mins from me-gonna be cutting and welding this weekend!
dude cool video. after seeing how strong that floor was with those rivets i fixes my floor pan im my 78 ford f100 with rivets. i spaced the rivets 1 inch apart from each other all the way around and dude its sturdy as hell
Glad it worked out for you. If you don't have a welder, pop rivets are more than strong enough. Did you caulk the seams?
@@CarGroves i didnt caulk the seams but i bought some of that seam sealer from summit racing and went around it with that. i put 3 coats of good primer on it and under it. then i painted the floor with rustoleum gloss black.
I pop rivet all of my floor pan jobs and never weld them. On floor boards with the center rusted out I use roll galvanized metal you buy at hardware stores. The spot under the metal I pop rivet on I smear bearing grease, then on the top I use bearing grease for my seam sealer, then use RV rubber tape to tape over the seams, in where only the center of the tape will sat on top of the grease at that seam. Then use pickup bed liner paint over all the floor boards, and the same paint under the car. My way will outlast all the pros in the world. And for cars with rust all over the floor boards that arent rusted through, I smear bearing grease all over them and then put large plastic trash bags over them.
Planes are rivotted:) btw once you get an air powered rivot gun you NEVER go back. Also an electric or air hand metal sheer really work nice for cutting patches over a disk grinder . Great video
I really need an air chisel.
@@CarGroves I don't like mine, leaves a mess:)
Ahhh this gives me hope for my grandfathers 65 Mustang.
Anything can be fixed with enough time and $$$ :) Normally I wouldn't work on something this rusty, but that patina just looks so good. Good luck on your project!
Key words: "who cares, it's going to get covered with carpet?!" Facts
😎
Depending on your purpose for the build ofc. I’m taking this route because I just wanna run it already. In the future, if I want a show build, then maybe I’ll do it right next time. But for the money, you can’t go wrong
At least he won’t fall through the floor🤣👍
Great job bro, now you have a new subcriber!
That Dazor work lamp though! 😂👍🏽👍🏽
Right?!
Lots of work...great!!
It sure is!
I still have yet to replace the floor on my '67 Cougar yet. I am curious as to why rivets instead of self tapping screws. I assume the rivets were left in place?
Hey buddy good work.
For a minute I thought you were gonna use road signs to patch the floors , you did a nice job thought
Thanks for watching Stephen!
Thats what im gonna use on my 67 i been saving them for years..
Great video brother, now my question is, why are your videos getting cut off, it seems like the video ends rather abruptly
Scotts Speed Shop yeah, I need to add endings huh? I was thinking the same thing yesterday
@@CarGroves I just thought that was a mistake, but yeah it would be nice to have an outro of some sorts, the rather abrupt end is kind of unsettling if you know what I mean
Great video!
Thanks for watching!
Wow that floor pan looks exactly like my 2005 Wrx.
Thanks for watching.
Great work
what you do when they no longer make new floor panel
After this video, I'll be tackling mine which is not that bad I think lol. Great job
You can do it!
I take it the white Chevrolet Suburban you cut the metal template was a wreck, when I first looked it looked like you've gone out and cut a panel of a perfectly good car
Its my wife car, well ex wife now
I plan on using pop rivets and seam sealer on the floor of my "77 El Camino.
El Camino has a frame, so glue the panels in place. Epoxy, urethane, special metal roof adhesive. Pop rivets will look UGLY every time you look under the car. They should be temporary only to hold panel in place till glue sets
Duuuuude! I have the same exact lamp in my garage as the brown 1 u have in the cab mine has a black n red button on the top right side of the lamp ontop where the bulbs go.
Good job on this often overlooked automobile..... Much classier than a Mustang....
I like using self drilling, drill point , sheet metal screws rather that pop rivets.
What about the seat risers? Not going to use them because of your new seats? Will their absence weaken the floors? How about weld in subframe connectors?
PS: I have a '68 Cougar XR7 that I have already done much of this same repair work to....
....RooDog....
Not sure yet, might do some custom seats
A bump shop bear doctoring up an ol' junk yard Cougar. Not Concours d'elegance just a direct and honest driver for the open road. Your channel will do well sir.
Thanks George!
I wouldn’t freak out over pop riveting either big freaking airplanes are held together with pop rivets all aluminum
not pops
@@robertoler3795 not for permanent just to get it going...
Unibody car you’ll have horrible body flex when the floor is the on my thing that tires your front and rear subframe together even planes have structural inside
What sort of welder is used for this type of work? I assume some sort of self feeding welder? I need to do this work; looking for advice on a 110/120 volt welder!
The way I understand it is that the weld through primer leaves the zinc in the weld to help protect the weld and will stay better than normal primer and not contaminate the weld like normal primer.
Its a pain to weld
Aw I was hoping for a full panel make lol then came the pre made floor pans I cant get for mine 😂
Hey brother thank you for the video . That's awesome. I hope your having fun cruzzin real soon.
My 14 year old son is taking the project over this summer, more videos soon!
Yeah, I always go out and cut pieces from my Suburban too 6:20 LMAO!!
I've found old gas tanks have the right structural bends that's perfect for patching floor pans. I used to drill out spot welds but not since I bought a Steck 20015. But I suppose most any seam busting chisel will shear right through. I've been watching a guy that grinds through 'em with some sort of narrow belt sander and then uses a seam buster chisel if necessary. Another guy on YT seems to forgo respirators when using a cut-off wheel and I've never seen him don a welding shield either. I have no idea why his eyes aren't blistered and he isn't hacking out half a lung.
Be careful with gas tanks, thanks for watching!
I think you can get great panels at home depot in the parking lot too!
Right on bro!! I actually love 71-73, Cougars, I know you think there ugly. They drive great, when there right and tight, they were last Cougars to come down line at Dearborn plant, simultaneously, with Mustangs, and they all have 351C V8 power!! 2 and 4V. But no 250 I6, no 302, No 351W, either. Marti report says all 71-73 Cougars, had cleveland power. A handful of 1971, did have 429cj, power, but nobody, is going to stumble into one for 500 bucks. I'd love it though. So if you can find a 71-73, cat, you will have a stout deliberation to start with. 96 percent are FMX,automatic. All cats are floor shifted, through 1973. 3 percent have C6 automatic trans. And about 1 percent, have a toploader 4speed manual, or 3speed manual. All have bucket seats. All have cool rear sequential turn signals. When your done wrenching, Its every bit as fun to drive as a Mustang, and it's really sweet inside!! Please give Cougars a try people, there being crushed daily, and I think there pretty cool!! Sorry about the rant. Great down to earth repair video, for the home mechanic!!
Thanks for watching Chris!
Where are you located dude
@@TWarren1485 Northern Wisconsin, USA
I feel like a boob for asking because it’s probably listed somewhere, but what kind of seats are those? They looks comfy
Great video and gave me a lot of ideas for my grand wagoneer floor when I start replacing it. I'm new to welding. What size welder do you recommend for doing flooring? Thanks.
I am using a 120v mig welder from harbor freight. Seems to work fine.
That looks pretty good.
It is!
Just found your channel man, good show eh and nice work !!!!!!!!!!!!!! and i dropped a Sub
Thanks for watching!
That was cool man!
Thanks for watching!
My dude, Safety glasses all the time!!
I wear safety glasses all day...
Considering being on a budget, any advice as to what might be best? I don’t have as big as a problem as this video but I don’t have a welder, would buying one, renting one, or just find a place to do it be best recommended? Enjoyed the video by the way man
You should just go ahead and buy a welder if you are serious about doing body work and building a car. Harbor freight is a good place to start.
Buy a welder
BOYYY HE CUT IT OUT OF A SUBURBAN😭legendary move
Thanks for watching buddy!
How long did this portion of the build take you?
Where did you purchase the floor pans to your 67 coug? Im recently working on my 67 cougar floors as well
Ebay
Now you have to use more seam sealer on all those pop rivets to seal them
Its cheap
Where do you apply the seam sealer-underneath?
On the seam
What is the brand of pop rivet gun you are using? And does it come with a kit ? That would make my life so much easier!!!
Thanks for your time!
Bought the best one they had at home depot
Where can we get that from?
Ebay
Where are you located?
How tf did you get a whole brand new pan
What is your plan to address the steel you left under the floor pans? Guaranteed there is a gap between the original steel and the replacement panel that will allow water/dirt to accumulate and continue to rust.
I think the rust inhibitor prevents that right? Or are you talking about under the car?
@@imacaryay7628 Under the car.
It will get welded and seam sealed
Hello! So, I noticed that you patched some of the rust holes with metal sheets, but is it possible to just rivet on the floor pans, weld them, then call it good? (I'm looking at a 1958 Delray project, and I'm thinking about buying it)
What they heck did you cut out that perfect quarter from the Burban??😲
Its a junk car
Nice video
Thanks
Really like your work. How did you deal with the pop rivets ? I'm new to this so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Good gun and steel rivets, cant use aluminum
What about the seat pan riser? Do you replace it, or fabrocate?
Fabricate new ones for my Miata seats
Thanks.
You're welcome
Why not do it once..
& do it right?...
Nice where did you get the floor pans from? Thank you.
google
Ok, there’s an auction coming up near me with a 72 nova but the reason I’m looking to get it is because it’ll be cheap. the floor is gone, the rear axel is gone, the only thing there is the body style and the front axel. I’ll likely get it for scrap price but would hate to loose such a cool car, what’s your take on repairing the entire floor?
Buy and entire floor section and weld it in.
I'm sad, my great granadpa had a 52 bel air.. after he passed.. his wife.. who has really bad Alzheimer's.. let my uncle convince her to give it to his friend. The friend said there wasnt enough material to weld new pans to.. so he sent it to the junkyard...
Where did you get pans for under $300?! I just got quoted $800 for the shipping alone.
Ebay
Thanks man!
Is it welded all the way around or just spot welded?
Spot welded
What size rivets do you recommend
Same size as the drill bit ;)
nice color blue
I love the Patina, thank you
What gauge of sheet metal did you use?
Not sure, didn't measure it. Its as thick as stock.
Did you cut the frame?
No, why would I ?
@@CarGroves It stood out to me. It just stops halfway through
@@jamesstutts1681 No that’s how all early mustangs and cougars are from the factory. They sell subframe connectors to strengthen the chassis
@@CarGroves Didn’t know that! Interesting