This is the only UA-cam channel I subscribe to. Phil is great because he gets right to the point, does a much better job than the manufacturer of pointing out critical details, and doesn't play dumb background music. If multi-million dollar manufacturers could do 70% as well as Phil, Phil would be out of the video business.
Very helpful video. 1 tip for everyone that I missed, is that the nut on the handle is reverse threaded. The longest part of the install was figuring out the reverse thread. Beyond that, it was super easy to install this kit. One thing I would have liked to have seen in this video was how the handle itself worked to select the flush option. Thanks.
THAAAANK YOUU!!! You resolve my incredibly frustrating problem which was the quick flush. It wasn't working properly and had to be held down. The instructions are lousy at explaining what you made very clear which was, I simply needed to lower the Blue Float adjuster... That was it! Thank you so very much for taking the time to create this video
This video was very helpful. I could not get the quick flush to come even close to draining the bowl but based on the tips in this video, I tried increasing the height of the fill valve to be a bit higher than the top of my tank, while still fiting under the lid, and that fixed the problem.
I had set aside the morning to do this project and it only took 10 minutes thanks to your great video step-by-step process. Keep it up, your video was great.
This is by far one of the best DIY video's I have ever seen! I installed the unit in no time! Unfortunately the unit was faulty and did not work. The installation would have been more difficult had it not been for watching this video, and alerted me to the unit being faulty!
This was an easy fix, I just followed the instructions...and just like the video said it saved at least 30 min + the hassle mopping up the water that spills out the bottom of the tank - Thanks for posting this
I know nothing about fixing household items. You made my life easier. I bought the HYR451 from Home Depot and it was in an open box without instructions. Great price, but I thought I could figure it out on my own. I was wrong. Thankfully, your video was full of easy instructions and videos. I was able to replace the old toilet insides with the new insides without much trouble. Note that I was getting a little draining of the water from the fill tank into the toilet. A little nudge to center the fill valve in the opening and it worked. Thanks again!
This is really helpful. I installed the push-style flusher in the two bathrooms in my home about 7 years ago. Recently one has started to "ghost flush" and I can see a slow leak from the tank to the bowl. I disassembled it to try to isolate the leak and inspect the gasket (I'd heard that the material can blister) but the material still appear structurally sound. I don't have the old manuals but I think I can tell from your video that there are some adjustments I should make to the way I create the seal with the cam and adjust the flusher to my overflow tube that may solve my leak. That or I'll just need to install a new one. Thanks for posting!
You're welcome! Yep, I think I had to make some minor adjustments after it was a few years in service. Eventually a plastic piece broke in the fast-fill valve and I had to replace that part, but at least it was sold separately and I was able to get the same part from a big box store. Good luck with the repair!
So glad I found your video! Instillation was easy with great with step by step instructions. I almost gave up after looking at the instructions from the box but I’m glad I didn’t. Thank you!
Hi great video made it simple for me to understand ,though i have done the old style & directions were good i cleaned out the top as well took about 30 minutes mabey a little more ,i note how it set to use approx. 3 gallons 1 gallon less with #2 & the #1 is just a nice touch no need to waste water ,with the cost we pay for it now, this great video an install made my day ,now 1 more another day same set up 😇
The video definitely made it easier to install. What I am having a problem with is the adjusting the water level. I did push down and turn the blue top but nothing would happen.
Thanks so much for your very quick response, I’m also having a hard time trying to adjust the height of the fill valve. It’s seems to be stuck. Thanks again.
Hi thank you for the fabulous instructions. However I have a little problem with my thin water pipe that connects to the unit so the water leaks. What can I do?
Hm, usually 2-3 wraps of plumber's Teflon tape on the threads of the connection that is leaking will be sufficient to stop a small leak. Wrap the tape in a clockwise direction (same direction as you turn the connector to tighten it) and be careful no to leave any excess tape hanging off past the last thread. Using too much tape can also cause the threads not to catch and the connection to leak.
thats great...thanks for the video...i wasnt sure if the J tube came with the kit...the inside flusher mechanisms green lock was all by itself in the box, so no idea what to do there initially and the paper instructions sucked...so again thank you for posting this, very valuable!
You're welcome! Our unit is in its 4th or 5th year or so and we finally had to replace the fast fill valve mechanism. The replacement stand alone fast fill valve comes with the self-cleaning J-tube: geni.us/Qxcg [Amazon Affiliate Product Link] Not sure why they wouldn't include that with the full kit tho! 🤷
Thanks for the video mate! Much easier than deciphering the instruction manual! I just did two of my toilets in about 30 min. I will do the 3rd one later, as it isn't used much down in the basement.
The larger side of the handle only separates from the smaller side past a certain point. If you press down only on the outer edge of the handle and hold it down, does it still not separate from the smaller section? Try removing the handle and see if the pieces are somehow stuck, glued, or taped together. Mine weren't, but they should separate too when not installed, which could indicate a possible defect if it doesn't.
Good explanation in this video. I’m still not sold on why anyone would want a dual flush toilet though, since you proved it might not work. Water is a cheap and abundant resource.
True, in the US, water is inexpensive and averages out to less than a penny per gallon, so from a cost savings standpoint it may not seem like a great incentive. But viewing water as an unlimited resource ignores the fact that many parts of the US experience periodic or frequent droughts (roughly 30% of the country experienced some measure of drought as recently as last month according to the US gov't drought monitor) making water conservation essential in those communities during those times, which can last for months on end, or years in some states. Abundant may be the overall trend, but isn't always true for localized points in time in all places. Plus I think folks feel good about saving water to preserve the environment by way of reducing the energy required to process and deliver water, minimizing pollution vectors, and conserving related fuel resources. A quick note on why I think the dual-flush didn't work in our guest bath: we already had a water conserving tank on that toilet (hence its shorter height) and since it used less water than a standard tank (3.5 gpf), the dual flush wasn't really an appropriate modification because there wasn't enough water in the tank to make it function correctly and the conservation benefit was not as pronounced, though this was not realized until after I completed the installation. The conversion kits works quite nicely in our standard-sized toilet tank.
So every time I flush the flusher controller adjust and I have to readjust it how can I fix this it’s quite annoying the flusher doesn’t go back into position
Phil! I am stumped with one thing - I, for the life of me, am unsure how to remove the original base assembly for the flapper. I had one similar, installed ten years ago, and the assembly is wedged in there and not sure how to remove it.
Hm, once that top o-ring on the overflow tube section has been removed, you'll need to remove the gap cam first (2:30), then you should be able to pull up on the bottom of the base assembly, and it should slide out of the tank hole.
My kit didn't come with the optional J-tube so I could not cover it in the video. The J-tube basically stirs up the water that settles at the bottom of the tank each time you flush in order to help prevent residue/sediment build up in the bottom of the toilet tank, so its purpose to to keep the tank clean.
Great video! I wish I had watched it 3 yrs ago when I installed my hydroclean hc630 / Great product! Now it's not filling up automatically like it did before. after flushing I need to shut off water valve and re-open valve to fill tank. I can't figure out why it's not refilling the tank automatically? any ideas??? thanks
Hm, for this issue, Fluidmaster recommends flushing the fill valve or replacing the cap assembly with a new one. You can find the detailed steps for that here: www.fluidmaster.com/toilet-problems/toilet-wont-fill-slow-filling-tank-remove-fill-valve-cap-replace-seal/
Hi Phil, thanks for this video super helpful. Wondering if you have any suggestions - my system as of this morning is gushing water into the tank and won't stop, I had to turn the water off so the tank didn't overflow. Any suggestions? Thanks!!
This video made the installation super simple. Thanks a bunch for making it. I couldn’t have done it with just the instructions that came with the product. I do have two issues though - 1) the flush is very weak and 2) I made a pencil mark at the water level as explained in the video, but I can’t seem to lower the water level after the installation. It’s about a inch above the pencil mark. Any help/ideas are highly appreciated.
To lower the water level in the bowl after a flush, you'll need to adjust the height of the float by turning the thumbscrew shown at 3:19 and lower it. The water level inside the toilet tank is directly correlated to the water level in the bowl after a flush, so lower the height in the tank should lower the amount of water in the bowl correspondingly. Hope this helps!
This is an excellent video! I watched it several times to familiarize myself with all the aspects of replacing the flush unit. The only thing I noticed was that at 2:53 when you put the flush converter back together you say to screw it in with a clockwise turn, but your video shows a counter-clockwise turn. At 2:18 you mention turning the base clockwise to disassemble the converter so it makes sense to turn it counter-clockwise to put it back together. Phil what do you do for a living? Your presentation and insights are awesome as shown in how you put this video together. I watched several videos from others, but yours is way better and concise. I've done two toilets so far with zero problems - thank you so much bro!
Hm, if you're still finding that there isn't enough water used in a "small" flush, even with the blue float pressed all the way down, it's possible that your toilet tank is a smaller size or is already a "water saving" type tank and uses less than the standard 1.6 gallons/flush. This dual flush converter isn't really designed for use with smaller sized tanks less than 1.6 Gal.
I have a tank liner and Model HC630C with the optional J-valve doesn’t fit. Do you know of a Danco fill valve with out the J-valve? Very good instructional video.
@@ReviewedByPhil However the small valve that connects to the J-valve seats on top of my 'Tank Liner'. Even if I were to cut a small piece out of the liner to allow for the valve, the water stream would go under the liner, and thereby causing sweating on the tank. All installations that I have seen so far, are tanks wit out the liners in the tank. So my question is the same, does Danco have other models available without the J-valve? Thanks for your previous timely response.
I did notice the boxes on the store shelves aren't sealed... so perhaps it "fell" out or someone needed a replacement J-tube and I got unlucky. Thankfully, it's optional and my unit works fine without it!
Hi Phil , great video bud . But after installed , I still have some leaking and the water refilled itself after 20 minutes or so . Where should I checked to stop this issue ? Thanks so much.
Leaking typically means the seal between the fill valve and opening in the tank is not watertight. This can be due to insufficient contact between the blue rubber seal and the rim of the hole (left a little gap) so pressing down a bit on top may help create a better seal. Just be careful not to overdo it because pushing the gasket in the hole too far can also cause leaking if the seal gets wrinkled. In this case the unit would have to be backed out slightly until the gasket is secure against the open but not forced down into it. I hope this explanation is clear.
Loved your video, but I have an old house with 3 large toilet tanks from 1954 that are 21" across, 7" deep and 17" wide. I've installed 2 Danco's alreadyThe water comes up to 4" below the overflow pipe! But everything works. I'm having trouble adjusting the fill valve. it doesn't want to higher or lower.
To adjust the valve height, grasp upper portion placing your thumb on gray side of the mini-valve and push clockwise ¼ turn. Then slide the upper body to adjust it up or down (see 1:21).
Hi Phil - not sure if you still check this but I had a question. If I hold the quick flush button down it will drain the entire tank. If I hold it for just a second it will only drain for that second. How do you get the quick flush to drain just the right amount no matter how long you hold it?
If you're finding that you need to hold the quick flush down (any amount of time) to get the quantity of water used just right, you'll likely need to adjust the blue "float" in the flush valve shown at 3:24. To use more water, push the float down and lower its position in the flush valve. If the blue float is already at the lowest position, you may need to adjust the water level in the tank so that the total volume available is greater. To do this, twist the "float leveler" knob, shown at 3:17 clockwise and the water level at cutoff should rise in the tank. If the water level is already at the top of the overflow pipe and you can't go any higher, then it's likely you have an eco-saver water tank on the toilet, in which case it's already using less water than a standard toilet (1.6 Gal/flush), and the Duo Flush may simply not be suited for further reducing the water usage in this situation. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the great video Phil. I recently purchased a house and one of the original MSJI Hydrorights was installed. It kept adding more water every 30 minutes and making a loud jet plane sound. I took the unit apart and there is a small bubble on the light blue seal the interfaces of the bottom of the toilet. I'm guessing that's where the leak is coming from as maybe the shape is too irregular to make a complete seal. when there was still water in the tank I tried wiggling the whole plastic cylinder on top of the blue seal every which way but the slow leak back into the bowl continued. Any thoughts?
Hm, without looking at what the bubble looks like I can't tell if maybe your rubber gasket is deformed or not. If so, perhaps you could exchange it and see if the new unit also has this "bubble." One thing I did notice once when installing one of these units is that if I pushed down too much when installing it, it would create a "wrinkle" in the seal that allowed water to leak down into the bowl. It may seem counter-intuitive, but lifting up on the unit slightly may eliminate the leak by allowing the gasket to meet all the edges of the drain hole for the tank. The unit only needs to be pressed down enough to create a good seal. Pushing it in further, past this point, for "a tighter fit" could actually backfire.
If I am understanding correctly, the split handle should be able to function with both parts together and also with the larger one functioning separately...but mine is not doing that. It is only working a solid handle. Is there a special step in the installation process that sets the handle to function separately?
Great video! thanks. I didn't even have to look at the instructions. FYI on Kohler toilets with the handle on the side (not the front like this one) the flushing mechanism/cable gets really close to the float setup. I got it to work but it is tight.
Excellent video. Much more helpful than the written instructions. I successfully installed one of these and it worked perfectly. I ordered two more and again followed your instructions to install them…but this time the Small Flush uses as much water as a full flush in both toilets. For both, I set the water fill levels set to minimum (moved them up) to try to fix the problem, but that didn’t help. Any ideas what could be wrong? Did I make a mistake, is there a setting I forgot, or are they both faulty?
So there are a couple things to try. It sounds like you've already tried adjusting the fill float level (see 3:14) by raising the float and allowing more water to fill the tank. If that hasn't worked, try adjusting the water usage floats (green and blue). Move the blue float up to use less water (see 3:24) during a quick flush and push the green float down to use more water for a full flush (see 3:34) and hopefully you'll be able to see a bigger difference in the volume between the two flushes.
What happens if the flush handle is not going back up after you flush it? I am trying to help my friend gets her to go back up. But the flush handle just stays down you have to put it back up. Hope you can help thanks.
This sounds like perhaps the spring inside the flush handle may have come loose, but that only way to tell would be to remove the flush handle and look at the underside to see what is happening when you press down on the handle.
@@ReviewedByPhil Ok thank you for your response. We installed a new flush kit so it worked out well in the end. However, we will look into that flush handle that got stuck. Thanks for your help. :)
Great video; however, at 3:43 you describe the mini valve backwards. Right/down is fully open and left/up is closed. I just installed this and as per the instruction manual, if the bowl isn't flushing and you have to hold down the button/lever for a second or two, then move the blue float slider down. I did that and it still won't flush properly. I was thinking of replacing the handle with the button style because I'm not sure how to correct this, but it's not acceptable.
Thanks, yes, you're correct. I got the orientation mixed up. So you're saying your bowl won't clear at all when flushed, neither on setting 1 (small) or 2 (full)? That's really odd. It may have to do with the size/capacity of your tank? The unit doesn't work well with tanks that are already designed to be water-saving or low-flow.
I tried raising the float so the tank itself would fill up a bit more. Then I adjusted the blue slider float and it has been flushing OK so far. It takes a few seconds before the bowl empties, however, almost like it's struggling to swirl down.
No, I don't think it would be compatible unless you completely removed the existing canister valve. There would need to be a 2" diameter valve opening between the tank and the bowl for the dual flush conversion valve to seat into.
Hey Phil really cool review! thanks for doing it. I just installed one last night and have to hold the handle down to fully flush. do you know of any adjustments to make? or is it because my toilet tank is too small? Thx again!
Yeah, it sounds like it's not getting enough water per flush. If you raise the float it'll allow you to get more water overall in the tank which might fix the problem (see 3:19 for adjusting the float leveler), but if you're already at or around the overflow tube level you won't be able to get more water in the tank which indicates the tank size is just a tad too small. The other option is to allow more water per flush, by adjusting the blue and green water meters (see 3:24 and 3:36, push them down for more water).
Dude. Thanks for posting this video. A demonstration is much better trying to read the instructions. Lol. Thanks again. Stay safe and healthy. Peace Note: Great video!
Hi Phil great video! Say I installed one of these today and the flush converter is too tall by about 1/2 inch. I have an angled rubber gasket the bottom of my tank. Can I swap that out with a flat gasket to buy myself a few extra inches of clearance? Thanks.
Hm, I'm not sure. Typically the flapper seat is part of the overflow tube assembly, so if you want to convert from an angled flapper seat to a flat one, you may need to replace the entire overflow tube (of course, if the flapper seat is separate, this is not an issue). I know the Duoflush is designed to be compatible with both styles, so it's possible that you'll get a bit more vertical room by making the switch, though I can't say exactly how much.
Thanks Phil!....I did solve my problem though. I simply removed the top of the plastic housing with a screw driver. There are a few notched clips that make this easy. I then clipped off the top of the blue low flush ruler by about 1.5" and that did the trick. Its been in and working now for about a week.
It sounds like water is draining from the tank into the bowl. There are typically two causes for this. If the water level is too high in the tank, it will drain into the overflow pipe in the middle (see 3:13), and if the float doesn't raise all the way (is set too high) water will continue to fill the tank. The solution here would be to lower the float, by twisting the float level dial counter-clockwise (3:18). Now if the water level isn't to the top of the overflow pipe, then it's likely to that's draining into the bowl from the main flush valve (where the old flapper was installed). When installing the rubber ring (see 2:23) be sure not to push it down too hard into the opening. There's a sweet spot here that you want to go for -- too loose and water will flow into the tank past the gasket, too tight and this can cause wrinkling in the seal and allow water to drain into the tank as well. Just press down hard enough that it has good contact and is snug and feel with your fingers around the seal to ensure that it is smooth and touching the sides of the opening without deforming or creating any ridges or bumps. Good luck!
Hi Phil, I pray you still see comments. I have a Fluidmaster Dual flush that I installed years ago. But, it's ghost flushing. I've spoken with their rep but no one sells what I need. I bought Danco HYR460 Total Repair Kit Dual Flush. My question is if it's ghost flushing isn't that caused from the seal? I'm not understanding how this is going to correct a leaking seal. Then I read one of the comments here stating a ghost flush could be corrected by tweaking some adjustment but I didn't follow his comment. At this point I've not started any installation only removing some the fluidmaster. 1. I'm curious will an adjustment in the Fluidmaster stop the ghosting? 2. Will this kit work to stop ghost flushing? 3. Am I right in thinking this is not replacing the seal?
Hi Barbara. Yes, ghost flushing is typically caused by a leaking gasket or seal. In the Duo Flush conversion kit there are two seals, so potentially two points of failure. The first is the curved blue gasket at the bottom of the flush valve that sits in the hole in the tank that drains into your toilet (see 2:26). The second seal is inside the flush valve; when you twist and split the unit apart, there's a blue flat washer/gasket as the bottom of the interior piece (see 2:20), and if this piece becomes warped or crusted with buildup/debris, it can cause an internal leak allowing water to slowly leak into the bowl and cause ghost flushing. Since you purchased the total repair kit, this comes with both the fill valve (part with the float) and flush valve (part that sits in the tank hole). You probably won't need to replace the fill valve, as this part usually doesn't cause any issues. Replacing the flush valve will provide you with both brand new gaskets which generally fixes the issue. If you want to try simply cleaning both seals, this may also remedy the ghost flushing if it is cause by buildup, though it's pretty much the same amount of work involved to drain the tank, and remove the flush valve to open it to clean both gaskets with soft sponge or toothbrush before re-installing it.
Hi Phil your step by step instructions are awesome. I have installed mine last night,. It went pretty well except the fill valve keep on filling up every 5-7 minutes. I have tried to install the blue gasket into the drain so many times but nothing is working. Seems like there.is tiny leak somewhere. Do you have any advice?
Hm, sometimes I've found that some folks were pushing the blue gasket in too hard into the hole which was causing it to warp/wrinkle. Pulling it out gently to relieve the excess pressure allowed the blue gasket to form a better seal. You should be able to tell if it's leaking there into the bowl because you will see the water in the bowl moving/rippling after the tank is filled. If you're confident that the leak isn't around the blue gasket for the main flush valve, is it possible that the water is overflowing into the overflow pipe because the float is set too high?
I have an old American Standard toilet with a date stamp of 1933. I installed the dual flush and the quick flush uses as much water as the full flush. So I put the blue quick flush adjustment all the way up and no change. I am wondering if there is something wrong with the linkage so that no mater which handle is use it operates as a full flush. Any suggestions?
Hm, the quick flush is the inner "smaller" lever. If the blue float is all the way up and it's still using all the water in the tank, perhaps the handle is getting stuck on something? If the handle is held down or stuck and the flap stays open this would potentially use all the water in the tank every time. Perhaps the Danco techs can better help you out? www.danco.com/support/
I bought this kit then realized that the flush valve of my tank is 4-inch large while this one is only for 2-inch valve. Where to get a adapter to make them work together?
Hm, I couldn't find any information about adapting a 4 inch flush valve to fit a 2 inch kit. Unfortunately, I don't think this will work for that as the duo flush conversion kit is designed to fit 2" flush valves. You can try reaching out the Danco for further clarification on this.
Just installed one of these to fix a leaking toilet. Easy peasy to install following your directions, but still leaking. Any thoughts? In any case, thanks for the amazing helpful video.
Thanks for the compliment! But I'm sorry to hear ti didn't fix your issue. What I found with the rubber seal gasket on the Duo flush is that it can be either too loose or too tightly seated in the hole that empties into the toilet bowl. If you adjust its position while the tank is full of water it might be easier to determine when you have a good seal. Trying pushing the entire flush control assembly down a little more to see if the seal is simply a bit loose; if the water stops leaking into the tank, be sure to slide the rubber retention ring over the overflow pipe down so it maintains the downward pressure on the assembly. However, if the rubber gasket is seated too tightly, this could cause a "wrinkle" or slight fold in the seal with the tank hole which can also lead to leaking water into the bowl. You can check by sliding your hand around the seal and feeling for any bumps along the edge. In this case you'd have to lift the assembly up slightly and see if it stops leaking. The other thing to look for is whether or not the tank is over-filling and the water level is too close to the top of the overflow pipe and water is running into the tank from there. You can adjust that by lowering the float.
Great, still works fine in my toilet. We did replace the fill valve last year because a plastic piece in it broke, and it wasn't filling, but that piece only cost about $8 from Home Depot.
@@ReviewedByPhil Update. Installed mine 3 months ago and the float is getting stuck or is water logged and not floating. Nothing binding. I bought 3 of these and feel really bummed out now. I have not installed the other two and will be returning them.
If the water continues to run into the toilet after flushing, this could be for several reasons. Check to make sure the seal between the flush valve and the tank is completely solid, with no wrinkles or bubbles, as this can allow water to run into the toilet constantly. The other issue could be that the float is set too high, as this is what signals the tank to stop filling; if set too high, the stop trigger never occurs and the excess water simply runs into the overflow tube. To lower the float, turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise (to the left) as shown at 3:17.
Watching this 5 years later to adjust the water levels for quick and full flush. Extremely thorough and concise video. Thank you
You're welcome!
4 yrs later and still the best instructions...Danco should have paid you instead. Absolutely brilliant Phil.
This is the only UA-cam channel I subscribe to. Phil is great because he gets right to the point, does a much better job than the manufacturer of pointing out critical details, and doesn't play dumb background music. If multi-million dollar manufacturers could do 70% as well as Phil, Phil would be out of the video business.
Very helpful video. 1 tip for everyone that I missed, is that the nut on the handle is reverse threaded. The longest part of the install was figuring out the reverse thread. Beyond that, it was super easy to install this kit. One thing I would have liked to have seen in this video was how the handle itself worked to select the flush option. Thanks.
Tried to follow Danco's written instructions and we were stumped. Watched this video once and it all made sense. Thank you so much!
I just installed my second, installed the first one over a year ago and absolutely love it
Phil, thank you SOOOO much for this video. Your clear and calm voice and step by step video were absolutely perfect.
Thanks to this video, it took me 15 minutes to install from start to finish! Great job, Phil!
Thanks, glad the video helped!
THAAAANK YOUU!!!
You resolve my incredibly frustrating problem which was the quick flush. It wasn't working properly and had to be held down. The instructions are lousy at explaining what you made very clear which was, I simply needed to lower the Blue Float adjuster... That was it!
Thank you so very much for taking the time to create this video
You're welcome! Glad I could help :-)
This video was very helpful. I could not get the quick flush to come even close to draining the bowl but based on the tips in this video, I tried increasing the height of the fill valve to be a bit higher than the top of my tank, while still fiting under the lid, and that fixed the problem.
I had set aside the morning to do this project and it only took 10 minutes thanks to your great video step-by-step process. Keep it up, your video was great.
This is by far one of the best DIY video's I have ever seen! I installed the unit in no time! Unfortunately the unit was faulty and did not work. The installation would have been more difficult had it not been for watching this video, and alerted me to the unit being faulty!
This was an easy fix, I just followed the instructions...and just like the video said it saved at least 30 min + the hassle mopping up the water that spills out the bottom of the tank - Thanks for posting this
You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful!
I know nothing about fixing household items. You made my life easier. I bought the HYR451 from Home Depot and it was in an open box without instructions. Great price, but I thought I could figure it out on my own. I was wrong. Thankfully, your video was full of easy instructions and videos. I was able to replace the old toilet insides with the new insides without much trouble. Note that I was getting a little draining of the water from the fill tank into the toilet. A little nudge to center the fill valve in the opening and it worked. Thanks again!
You're welcome! I'm glad the video was able to help you :-)
Excellent video. Good timing, pronunciation, details, visuals, measures, everything. Fantastic.
Thank you kindly!
Wow. Just wow. Best review of any product. Ever.
This is really helpful. I installed the push-style flusher in the two bathrooms in my home about 7 years ago. Recently one has started to "ghost flush" and I can see a slow leak from the tank to the bowl. I disassembled it to try to isolate the leak and inspect the gasket (I'd heard that the material can blister) but the material still appear structurally sound. I don't have the old manuals but I think I can tell from your video that there are some adjustments I should make to the way I create the seal with the cam and adjust the flusher to my overflow tube that may solve my leak. That or I'll just need to install a new one. Thanks for posting!
You're welcome! Yep, I think I had to make some minor adjustments after it was a few years in service. Eventually a plastic piece broke in the fast-fill valve and I had to replace that part, but at least it was sold separately and I was able to get the same part from a big box store. Good luck with the repair!
So glad I found your video! Instillation was easy with great with step by step instructions. I almost gave up after looking at the instructions from the box but I’m glad I didn’t. Thank you!
You're welcome!
11/25/21 Watched your video, didn’t even open the directions. Installed with no problem. THANK YOU
You're welcome!
Hi great video made it simple for me to understand ,though i have done the old style & directions were good i cleaned out the top as well took about 30 minutes mabey a little more ,i note how it set to use approx. 3 gallons 1 gallon less with #2 & the #1 is just a nice touch no need to waste water ,with the cost we pay for it now, this great video an install made my day ,now 1 more another day same set up 😇
The video definitely made it easier to install. What I am having a problem with is the adjusting the water level. I did push down and turn the blue top but nothing would happen.
Thanks so much for your very quick response, I’m also having a hard time trying to adjust the height of the fill valve. It’s seems to be stuck. Thanks again.
Phil I just discovered you and love you already... thankyou for solid content!
U explained it alot better than the directions thanks for helping me to put mine togther!
The video made this installation a breeze. So glad I didnt have to read instructions because I would be force to make an outhouse instead. Thanks.
Hi thank you for the fabulous instructions. However I have a little problem with my thin water pipe that connects to the unit so the water leaks. What can I do?
Hm, usually 2-3 wraps of plumber's Teflon tape on the threads of the connection that is leaking will be sufficient to stop a small leak. Wrap the tape in a clockwise direction (same direction as you turn the connector to tighten it) and be careful no to leave any excess tape hanging off past the last thread. Using too much tape can also cause the threads not to catch and the connection to leak.
thats great...thanks for the video...i wasnt sure if the J tube came with the kit...the inside flusher mechanisms green lock was all by itself in the box, so no idea what to do there initially and the paper instructions sucked...so again thank you for posting this, very valuable!
You're welcome! Our unit is in its 4th or 5th year or so and we finally had to replace the fast fill valve mechanism. The replacement stand alone fast fill valve comes with the self-cleaning J-tube: geni.us/Qxcg [Amazon Affiliate Product Link] Not sure why they wouldn't include that with the full kit tho! 🤷
Great how to video. I followed it step by step and found no trouble installing the product. Thank you and more power to your channel.
You're welcome and thank you for the feedback!
AWESOME review and installation. I followed your direction to the tee and mine works like a CHAMP! Thanks for the help!!
You're welcome! Glad to help.
Thanks for the video mate! Much easier than deciphering the instruction manual! I just did two of my toilets in about 30 min. I will do the 3rd one later, as it isn't used much down in the basement.
Glad it helped!
The larger side of the handle only separates from the smaller side past a certain point. If you press down only on the outer edge of the handle and hold it down, does it still not separate from the smaller section? Try removing the handle and see if the pieces are somehow stuck, glued, or taped together. Mine weren't, but they should separate too when not installed, which could indicate a possible defect if it doesn't.
Thank you! Thank you! Your video cleared up the confusion we had from the instructions that came with our kit. This was very helpful!
You're welcome!
Good explanation in this video. I’m still not sold on why anyone would want a dual flush toilet though, since you proved it might not work. Water is a cheap and abundant resource.
True, in the US, water is inexpensive and averages out to less than a penny per gallon, so from a cost savings standpoint it may not seem like a great incentive. But viewing water as an unlimited resource ignores the fact that many parts of the US experience periodic or frequent droughts (roughly 30% of the country experienced some measure of drought as recently as last month according to the US gov't drought monitor) making water conservation essential in those communities during those times, which can last for months on end, or years in some states. Abundant may be the overall trend, but isn't always true for localized points in time in all places. Plus I think folks feel good about saving water to preserve the environment by way of reducing the energy required to process and deliver water, minimizing pollution vectors, and conserving related fuel resources.
A quick note on why I think the dual-flush didn't work in our guest bath: we already had a water conserving tank on that toilet (hence its shorter height) and since it used less water than a standard tank (3.5 gpf), the dual flush wasn't really an appropriate modification because there wasn't enough water in the tank to make it function correctly and the conservation benefit was not as pronounced, though this was not realized until after I completed the installation. The conversion kits works quite nicely in our standard-sized toilet tank.
So every time I flush the flusher controller adjust and I have to readjust it how can I fix this it’s quite annoying the flusher doesn’t go back into position
The shim is not thick enough to center the gasket to make a complete seal… is there a good fix or is this system just not compatible with my toilet?
Phil! I am stumped with one thing - I, for the life of me, am unsure how to remove the original base assembly for the flapper. I had one similar, installed ten years ago, and the assembly is wedged in there and not sure how to remove it.
Hm, once that top o-ring on the overflow tube section has been removed, you'll need to remove the gap cam first (2:30), then you should be able to pull up on the bottom of the base assembly, and it should slide out of the tank hole.
Don't know what the J-tube nozzle at the bottom of the valve for. You did not touch it in your video. Any idea what's it for? Thanks a lot.
My kit didn't come with the optional J-tube so I could not cover it in the video. The J-tube basically stirs up the water that settles at the bottom of the tank each time you flush in order to help prevent residue/sediment build up in the bottom of the toilet tank, so its purpose to to keep the tank clean.
Phil
Thank you that was awesome. i did not even read the instructions. Wow you really made this simple.
Hey i know its been 5 years, but i just cant figure out why my handle wont seperate for the quick and full flush, every flush is a full flush
I just purchased one and set it up this video helped a lot thanks
Glad I could help
Glad I found your video. I was looking for a replacement and just found it! Thanks for the in depth guide.
You're welcome!
Mine is acting up the water keeps flowing without flushing what could be wrong i have to shut the water off to stop it
This is precisely how you do a how-to. Thank you!
Thanks for the compliment! Glad it helped
That's an excellent illustration. Like how you gave the verbal instruction over the time lapse visual.
Question, if water is going down, do I have to replace the entire kit? Or do they sell the flapper separately?
Great video! I wish I had watched it 3 yrs ago when I installed my hydroclean hc630 / Great product!
Now it's not filling up automatically like it did before. after flushing I need to shut off water valve and re-open valve to fill tank.
I can't figure out why it's not refilling the tank automatically? any ideas??? thanks
Hm, for this issue, Fluidmaster recommends flushing the fill valve or replacing the cap assembly with a new one. You can find the detailed steps for that here: www.fluidmaster.com/toilet-problems/toilet-wont-fill-slow-filling-tank-remove-fill-valve-cap-replace-seal/
Hi Phil, thanks for this video super helpful. Wondering if you have any suggestions - my system as of this morning is gushing water into the tank and won't stop, I had to turn the water off so the tank didn't overflow. Any suggestions? Thanks!!
Thank you for this video Phil! Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Very clear and detailed explanation!
This video made the installation super simple. Thanks a bunch for making it. I couldn’t have done it with just the instructions that came with the product. I do have two issues though - 1) the flush is very weak and 2) I made a pencil mark at the water level as explained in the video, but I can’t seem to lower the water level after the installation. It’s about a inch above the pencil mark. Any help/ideas are highly appreciated.
To lower the water level in the bowl after a flush, you'll need to adjust the height of the float by turning the thumbscrew shown at 3:19 and lower it. The water level inside the toilet tank is directly correlated to the water level in the bowl after a flush, so lower the height in the tank should lower the amount of water in the bowl correspondingly. Hope this helps!
great explanation. took me 15 min to install it.
I am planning on getting this kit for my guest bathroom , will see how it works out .
This is an excellent video! I watched it several times to familiarize myself with all the aspects of replacing the flush unit. The only thing I noticed was that at 2:53 when you put the flush converter back together you say to screw it in with a clockwise turn, but your video shows a counter-clockwise turn. At 2:18 you mention turning the base clockwise to disassemble the converter so it makes sense to turn it counter-clockwise to put it back together.
Phil what do you do for a living? Your presentation and insights are awesome as shown in how you put this video together. I watched several videos from others, but yours is way better and concise. I've done two toilets so far with zero problems - thank you so much bro!
You are my favorite guy.
Aw, thanks!
Excellent video! It made installation quick and easy. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Great video and best product with more features and adjustments to fit your requirements.
I bought one and install it today. The quick flush still too quick even I move the blue tap all the way down. any suggestion? Thanks,
Hm, if you're still finding that there isn't enough water used in a "small" flush, even with the blue float pressed all the way down, it's possible that your toilet tank is a smaller size or is already a "water saving" type tank and uses less than the standard 1.6 gallons/flush. This dual flush converter isn't really designed for use with smaller sized tanks less than 1.6 Gal.
I have a tank liner and Model HC630C with the optional J-valve doesn’t fit. Do you know of a Danco fill valve with out the J-valve? Very good instructional video.
The J-valve is optional, even in the kit that it comes with. If the J-valve doesn't fit, just do the installation without it and it should work fine.
@@ReviewedByPhil However the small valve that connects to the J-valve seats on top of my 'Tank Liner'. Even if I were to cut a small piece out of the liner to allow for the valve, the water stream would go under the liner, and thereby causing sweating on the tank. All installations that I have seen so far, are tanks wit out the liners in the tank. So my question is the same, does Danco have other models available without the J-valve? Thanks for your previous timely response.
The J tube is included in the box set. I bought it. I bought the same one you did. The j tube was in there
I did notice the boxes on the store shelves aren't sealed... so perhaps it "fell" out or someone needed a replacement J-tube and I got unlucky. Thankfully, it's optional and my unit works fine without it!
Hi Phil , great video bud . But after installed , I still have some leaking and the water refilled itself after 20 minutes or so . Where should I checked to stop this issue ?
Thanks so much.
Leaking typically means the seal between the fill valve and opening in the tank is not watertight. This can be due to insufficient contact between the blue rubber seal and the rim of the hole (left a little gap) so pressing down a bit on top may help create a better seal. Just be careful not to overdo it because pushing the gasket in the hole too far can also cause leaking if the seal gets wrinkled. In this case the unit would have to be backed out slightly until the gasket is secure against the open but not forced down into it. I hope this explanation is clear.
You didn't cover adjusting the mini-valve to avoid extra water filling the bowl. Why not?
Loved your video, but I have an old house with 3 large toilet tanks from 1954 that are 21" across, 7" deep and 17" wide. I've installed 2 Danco's alreadyThe water comes up to 4" below the overflow pipe! But everything works. I'm having trouble adjusting the fill valve. it doesn't want to higher or lower.
To adjust the valve height, grasp upper portion placing your thumb on gray side of the mini-valve and push clockwise ¼ turn. Then slide the upper body to adjust it up or down (see 1:21).
Hi Phil - not sure if you still check this but I had a question. If I hold the quick flush button down it will drain the entire tank. If I hold it for just a second it will only drain for that second. How do you get the quick flush to drain just the right amount no matter how long you hold it?
And thank you in advance!
If you're finding that you need to hold the quick flush down (any amount of time) to get the quantity of water used just right, you'll likely need to adjust the blue "float" in the flush valve shown at 3:24. To use more water, push the float down and lower its position in the flush valve. If the blue float is already at the lowest position, you may need to adjust the water level in the tank so that the total volume available is greater. To do this, twist the "float leveler" knob, shown at 3:17 clockwise and the water level at cutoff should rise in the tank. If the water level is already at the top of the overflow pipe and you can't go any higher, then it's likely you have an eco-saver water tank on the toilet, in which case it's already using less water than a standard toilet (1.6 Gal/flush), and the Duo Flush may simply not be suited for further reducing the water usage in this situation. Hope this helps!
Answered my questions. Excellent video 👍🏻
Thanks!
Thanks for the great video Phil. I recently purchased a house and one of the original MSJI Hydrorights was installed. It kept adding more water every 30 minutes and making a loud jet plane sound. I took the unit apart and there is a small bubble on the light blue seal the interfaces of the bottom of the toilet. I'm guessing that's where the leak is coming from as maybe the shape is too irregular to make a complete seal. when there was still water in the tank I tried wiggling the whole plastic cylinder on top of the blue seal every which way but the slow leak back into the bowl continued. Any thoughts?
Hm, without looking at what the bubble looks like I can't tell if maybe your rubber gasket is deformed or not. If so, perhaps you could exchange it and see if the new unit also has this "bubble." One thing I did notice once when installing one of these units is that if I pushed down too much when installing it, it would create a "wrinkle" in the seal that allowed water to leak down into the bowl. It may seem counter-intuitive, but lifting up on the unit slightly may eliminate the leak by allowing the gasket to meet all the edges of the drain hole for the tank. The unit only needs to be pressed down enough to create a good seal. Pushing it in further, past this point, for "a tighter fit" could actually backfire.
If I am understanding correctly, the split handle should be able to function with both parts together and also with the larger one functioning separately...but mine is not doing that. It is only working a solid handle. Is there a special step in the installation process that sets the handle to function separately?
The instructions were printed in a very small font; difficult for me to read. This video made it seem simple.
Great video! thanks. I didn't even have to look at the instructions. FYI on Kohler toilets with the handle on the side (not the front like this one) the flushing mechanism/cable gets really close to the float setup. I got it to work but it is tight.
Thanks for the tip!
Excellent video. Much more helpful than the written instructions. I successfully installed one of these and it worked perfectly. I ordered two more and again followed your instructions to install them…but this time the Small Flush uses as much water as a full flush in both toilets. For both, I set the water fill levels set to minimum (moved them up) to try to fix the problem, but that didn’t help. Any ideas what could be wrong? Did I make a mistake, is there a setting I forgot, or are they both faulty?
So there are a couple things to try. It sounds like you've already tried adjusting the fill float level (see 3:14) by raising the float and allowing more water to fill the tank. If that hasn't worked, try adjusting the water usage floats (green and blue). Move the blue float up to use less water (see 3:24) during a quick flush and push the green float down to use more water for a full flush (see 3:34) and hopefully you'll be able to see a bigger difference in the volume between the two flushes.
What happens if the flush handle is not going back up after you flush it? I am trying to help my friend gets her to go back up. But the flush handle just stays down you have to put it back up. Hope you can help thanks.
This sounds like perhaps the spring inside the flush handle may have come loose, but that only way to tell would be to remove the flush handle and look at the underside to see what is happening when you press down on the handle.
@@ReviewedByPhil Ok thank you for your response. We installed a new flush kit so it worked out well in the end. However, we will look into that flush handle that got stuck. Thanks for your help. :)
also, was that an after market Bidet on that Guest Toilet?
Yes, I made a video on that installation here: ua-cam.com/video/Tju9DSBnVtw/v-deo.html
Great video; however, at 3:43 you describe the mini valve backwards. Right/down is fully open and left/up is closed. I just installed this and as per the instruction manual, if the bowl isn't flushing and you have to hold down the button/lever for a second or two, then move the blue float slider down. I did that and it still won't flush properly. I was thinking of replacing the handle with the button style because I'm not sure how to correct this, but it's not acceptable.
Thanks, yes, you're correct. I got the orientation mixed up. So you're saying your bowl won't clear at all when flushed, neither on setting 1 (small) or 2 (full)? That's really odd. It may have to do with the size/capacity of your tank? The unit doesn't work well with tanks that are already designed to be water-saving or low-flow.
I tried raising the float so the tank itself would fill up a bit more. Then I adjusted the blue slider float and it has been flushing OK so far. It takes a few seconds before the bowl empties, however, almost like it's struggling to swirl down.
Can I install this over a canister style flush valve? I’m assuming no…
No, I don't think it would be compatible unless you completely removed the existing canister valve. There would need to be a 2" diameter valve opening between the tank and the bowl for the dual flush conversion valve to seat into.
Hey Phil really cool review! thanks for doing it. I just installed one last night and have to hold the handle down to fully flush. do you know of any adjustments to make? or is it because my toilet tank is too small? Thx again!
Yeah, it sounds like it's not getting enough water per flush. If you raise the float it'll allow you to get more water overall in the tank which might fix the problem (see 3:19 for adjusting the float leveler), but if you're already at or around the overflow tube level you won't be able to get more water in the tank which indicates the tank size is just a tad too small. The other option is to allow more water per flush, by adjusting the blue and green water meters (see 3:24 and 3:36, push them down for more water).
ReviewedByPhil thx Phil! I didn’t try to adjust the float!! I was just messing with the blue and green adjusters!!
Thanks for this you just saved my sanity
Exceptional demonstration!! 👍🏽👍🏽
Dude.
Thanks for posting this video. A demonstration is much better
trying to read the instructions. Lol.
Thanks again.
Stay safe and healthy.
Peace
Note: Great video!
Thanks! Hope you're staying safe and healthy as well in these uncertain times. Glad the video was able to help!
Great video, well recorded and narrated. It was a big help for installing the product and the tips are very helpful.
Thank you! I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Good job Phil! I watched and did mine and it was very easy and is working great.
💪👏
Great install and adjustment video.
Hi Phil great video! Say I installed one of these today and the flush converter is too tall by about 1/2 inch. I have an angled rubber gasket the bottom of my tank. Can I swap that out with a flat gasket to buy myself a few extra inches of clearance? Thanks.
Hm, I'm not sure. Typically the flapper seat is part of the overflow tube assembly, so if you want to convert from an angled flapper seat to a flat one, you may need to replace the entire overflow tube (of course, if the flapper seat is separate, this is not an issue). I know the Duoflush is designed to be compatible with both styles, so it's possible that you'll get a bit more vertical room by making the switch, though I can't say exactly how much.
Thanks Phil!....I did solve my problem though. I simply removed the top of the plastic housing with a screw driver. There are a few notched clips that make this easy. I then clipped off the top of the blue low flush ruler by about 1.5" and that did the trick. Its been in and working now for about a week.
This was awesome self fix. Thank you so much. Just installed mine
You're welcome, enjoy it!
Loved the video! Straight on point and i just installed it.
Mine must be broken. It has the same flush for both options full and quick. I'm going to return it.
How odd; maybe your set didn't come with the "optional" J tube, or maybe they just added it since, but it came with mine right out of the box...
👍Nice! This video is already 6 years old 😲 If they've changed the packaging and added the J-tube as an included accessory now, that's awesome.
Do you know why my toilet water in the tank keeps running. It didn't stop.
It sounds like water is draining from the tank into the bowl. There are typically two causes for this. If the water level is too high in the tank, it will drain into the overflow pipe in the middle (see 3:13), and if the float doesn't raise all the way (is set too high) water will continue to fill the tank. The solution here would be to lower the float, by twisting the float level dial counter-clockwise (3:18). Now if the water level isn't to the top of the overflow pipe, then it's likely to that's draining into the bowl from the main flush valve (where the old flapper was installed). When installing the rubber ring (see 2:23) be sure not to push it down too hard into the opening. There's a sweet spot here that you want to go for -- too loose and water will flow into the tank past the gasket, too tight and this can cause wrinkling in the seal and allow water to drain into the tank as well. Just press down hard enough that it has good contact and is snug and feel with your fingers around the seal to ensure that it is smooth and touching the sides of the opening without deforming or creating any ridges or bumps. Good luck!
ReviewedByPhil exactly. I changed the filter and it run good now. Thanks for the video.
Hi Phil, I pray you still see comments. I have a Fluidmaster Dual flush that I installed years ago. But, it's ghost flushing. I've spoken with their rep but no one sells what I need. I bought Danco HYR460 Total Repair Kit Dual Flush. My question is if it's ghost flushing isn't that caused from the seal? I'm not understanding how this is going to correct a leaking seal. Then I read one of the comments here stating a ghost flush could be corrected by tweaking some adjustment but I didn't follow his comment.
At this point I've not started any installation only removing some the fluidmaster. 1. I'm curious will an adjustment in the Fluidmaster stop the ghosting? 2. Will this kit work to stop ghost flushing? 3. Am I right in thinking this is not replacing the seal?
Hi Barbara. Yes, ghost flushing is typically caused by a leaking gasket or seal. In the Duo Flush conversion kit there are two seals, so potentially two points of failure. The first is the curved blue gasket at the bottom of the flush valve that sits in the hole in the tank that drains into your toilet (see 2:26). The second seal is inside the flush valve; when you twist and split the unit apart, there's a blue flat washer/gasket as the bottom of the interior piece (see 2:20), and if this piece becomes warped or crusted with buildup/debris, it can cause an internal leak allowing water to slowly leak into the bowl and cause ghost flushing. Since you purchased the total repair kit, this comes with both the fill valve (part with the float) and flush valve (part that sits in the tank hole). You probably won't need to replace the fill valve, as this part usually doesn't cause any issues. Replacing the flush valve will provide you with both brand new gaskets which generally fixes the issue. If you want to try simply cleaning both seals, this may also remedy the ghost flushing if it is cause by buildup, though it's pretty much the same amount of work involved to drain the tank, and remove the flush valve to open it to clean both gaskets with soft sponge or toothbrush before re-installing it.
Hi Phil your step by step instructions are awesome. I have installed mine last night,. It went pretty well except the fill valve keep on filling up every 5-7 minutes. I have tried to install the blue gasket into the drain so many times but nothing is working. Seems like there.is tiny leak somewhere. Do you have any advice?
Hm, sometimes I've found that some folks were pushing the blue gasket in too hard into the hole which was causing it to warp/wrinkle. Pulling it out gently to relieve the excess pressure allowed the blue gasket to form a better seal. You should be able to tell if it's leaking there into the bowl because you will see the water in the bowl moving/rippling after the tank is filled. If you're confident that the leak isn't around the blue gasket for the main flush valve, is it possible that the water is overflowing into the overflow pipe because the float is set too high?
Appreciate your reply, it turns out my toilet is not compatible when I contacted Danko.
Great illustration. Thanks!
Very clear, very thorough.
Thanks
I have an old American Standard toilet with a date stamp of 1933. I installed the dual flush and the quick flush uses as much water as the full flush. So I put the blue quick flush adjustment all the way up and no change. I am wondering if there is something wrong with the linkage so that no mater which handle is use it operates as a full flush. Any suggestions?
Hm, the quick flush is the inner "smaller" lever. If the blue float is all the way up and it's still using all the water in the tank, perhaps the handle is getting stuck on something? If the handle is held down or stuck and the flap stays open this would potentially use all the water in the tank every time. Perhaps the Danco techs can better help you out? www.danco.com/support/
I bought this kit then realized that the flush valve of my tank is 4-inch large while this one is only for 2-inch valve. Where to get a adapter to make them work together?
Hm, I couldn't find any information about adapting a 4 inch flush valve to fit a 2 inch kit. Unfortunately, I don't think this will work for that as the duo flush conversion kit is designed to fit 2" flush valves. You can try reaching out the Danco for further clarification on this.
Just installed one of these to fix a leaking toilet. Easy peasy to install following your directions, but still leaking. Any thoughts? In any case, thanks for the amazing helpful video.
Thanks for the compliment! But I'm sorry to hear ti didn't fix your issue. What I found with the rubber seal gasket on the Duo flush is that it can be either too loose or too tightly seated in the hole that empties into the toilet bowl. If you adjust its position while the tank is full of water it might be easier to determine when you have a good seal. Trying pushing the entire flush control assembly down a little more to see if the seal is simply a bit loose; if the water stops leaking into the tank, be sure to slide the rubber retention ring over the overflow pipe down so it maintains the downward pressure on the assembly. However, if the rubber gasket is seated too tightly, this could cause a "wrinkle" or slight fold in the seal with the tank hole which can also lead to leaking water into the bowl. You can check by sliding your hand around the seal and feeling for any bumps along the edge. In this case you'd have to lift the assembly up slightly and see if it stops leaking. The other thing to look for is whether or not the tank is over-filling and the water level is too close to the top of the overflow pipe and water is running into the tank from there. You can adjust that by lowering the float.
Thank you! Your video helped for an easy install!
You're welcome!
I have done everything in the video but my toilet keeps running. It’s leaking out of the bottom
The bottom section won’t fit snug on my tank. Anyone else have this issue?
Mine toilet is an aqua source. The tanks hole is angled, and it will not work.
I'm sorry to hear that, but thanks for sharing your experience. I'm sure this information will help others!
SOOOOO AWESOME!! Helped a lot for my project too.
Great to hear!
Wow this is an incredibly well made instructional video. Great work :)
Thanks! Hope you found it useful!
This video is 2017. How well is it holding up?
Great, still works fine in my toilet. We did replace the fill valve last year because a plastic piece in it broke, and it wasn't filling, but that piece only cost about $8 from Home Depot.
@@ReviewedByPhil Thanks. I have ordered this and I'm awaiting shipment.
@@ReviewedByPhil Update. Installed mine 3 months ago and the float is getting stuck or is water logged and not floating. Nothing binding. I bought 3 of these and feel really bummed out now. I have not installed the other two and will be returning them.
How to fix the flush non stop flushed water
If the water continues to run into the toilet after flushing, this could be for several reasons. Check to make sure the seal between the flush valve and the tank is completely solid, with no wrinkles or bubbles, as this can allow water to run into the toilet constantly. The other issue could be that the float is set too high, as this is what signals the tank to stop filling; if set too high, the stop trigger never occurs and the excess water simply runs into the overflow tube. To lower the float, turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise (to the left) as shown at 3:17.