A simple "Thank you" is waaay short of the gratitude I have for your excellent knowledge and teaching skills. You have just saved me tons of heartache and head scratching. These regulators have killed more trucks with spiders than we could ever know. Something else I must share is the oil pressure switch, located on the back of the block, can go bad causing rough idle, mysterious dieing, and no fuel pump voltage (improper voltage). They have a set if contact points inside and can either burn or internal spring failure. Its in a tough spot to service but a $21 pressure switch can save your truck.
I purchased this truck in a garage sale here in Forida for $800.00 four years ago. seller thought engine was blown. I bought as is. water in oil. I tested every cylinder perfect compression. intake manifold gasket failed. I replaced total coolant system and gaskets. flushed the engine. extended cab 4wd truck. Its been my daily driver for the last 4 years. ac was shot, 1k to fix. no thank you. overall excellent truck.
Hi Paul, thank you for these detailed diagnostic videos! Just made a quick buck with my scan tool and fuel pressure gauge for this exact internal leak issue on a 2001 Blazer. I am in the process of establishing my own shop here in central PA, specializing in automotive diagnostics. Keep up the awesome work, you are my inspiration to battle the parts changers!
Great video. Back when I was green, the ex wife had a 93 S-10 blazer with this problem. I chased it for a week before consulting someone with more experience, who told me this was a common issue. This video sure would have helped!
I know this is a 10 year old video, but it is exactly what i needed! About to tear into my 94 with the CPI. Looooong crank, running very rich. Thanks for this!
That was easily the most informative, well spoken and educational videos I’ve come across since I got my s10 blazer. Same exact condition on my truck so this helped me out a ton. Thanks!
I want to "plus 1" all of the positive comments below. The troubleshooting steps were awesome and spot on for my 94 S-10. I saw a few folks ask about changing the Fuel Pressure Regulator while still in the car but as I've completed the job, I'm not going to search for the answer at this time. If it HASN'T been answered, I would LOVE to suggest that as an option if its possible. That part was all that was wrong ($50) but I broke the plastic tabs on one very difficult popette. So, $240 later, I now have an all new spider injector assembly. My suggestion would be to squeeze the clips with one hand and wiggle / pull the plastic (not the fuel line) with needle nose pliers. I think the ring of plastic near the tip of the popette is more solid than trying to wiggle the clips. Anyway, thanks for giving me the confidence to tackle the job.
+searnhardt8 thanks man and nice job. Unfortunately those plastic tabs are brittle. I've done these with one broken clip and they hold, but not two. Sorry you had to change the whole thing.
Hi ScannerDanner. Because your videos over the years have been so helpful and because you've answered my questions in the comments sections of your videos, I have bought your ebook! Thanks!
This helped me figure out what was going on with the fuel pressure drop in my 2000 4.3. Also now I know I have a SCPI system which has a similar FP regulator. The test on the fuel lines are very helpful to know. I'm a premium member and have the book yet still find your perfect vid I need hand fed to me by UA-cams algorithm. Thanks for your years of compiling all this information. I love it!
Awesome video! You did a wonderful job explaining everything and you gave me all the information I need to tackle the same issue in my GMC Safari. I am very thankful for your efforts 🙏 bless you!
My son had me watch this video so I would know what he has to do to my Safari van. Same engine as this one. Very informative and it will help him get the job done. He is a good home mechanic. I am blessed by him and this video.
This is extremely helpful. Not much of a GM mechanic since I have only owned imports. My brother has a 92 Oldmobile Bravada that I have changed the Fuel Pump fuse and fuel filter, Cleaned the after market K&N cone filter. Ive put fuel treatment in it. Hasn't been able to start on its own, just long strung out cranks with foot to floor.
Step 1 is to definitely check your fuel psi. There is a service port on the intake area and you can buy that particular psi gauge to fit specifically your application for like $30? Or rent one from the parts store? Less than 50 psi on these things and they will not start. Then also major flooding from the regulator rupturing, which again can be determined with that same psi gauge
Great video, hoping to receive my copy of your book in the mail today. I was wondering why fuel pressure went up when you opened the throttle then a few minutes later you explained it, fantastic.
I would agree. As far as replacing the whole unit, I wouldn't do that. Your truck is a newer design and uses 6 separate electrical injectors as opposed to one. So it is called a Sequential Central Port Injection system. (SCPI) I believe the injectors are sold separately but I may be wrong, it's been a long time since I have been inside one of those. As for troubleshooting a leaking regulator. It would be the same steps I've shown in this video. Fuel pressure bleed-down test is the key.
That's a great point about maintaining pressure to prevent fuel boiling on the rail. No doubt that's a point made as a result of unfortunate experience. The lighting is great in this video.
You r my fav. youtube channel.If your school ever makes a stink of you filming,you can say that if a student misses a day,he/she can watch what u filmed so that person does not get behind.I know that missing 1 day of Tech school,you miss ALOT.I look forward to your videos & hope to be as knowledgable as u someday.I will also click on all your ads to help u out everytime I watch your videosKeep up the awesome work.Thumbs up everytime too
Pinch pliers,not vise grips. Lol, had a guy that worked for me that used vise grips and cut 3 different lines until he bought some pinch tools. Great video and knowledge as usual.
that's great! thanks for the update. ill keep u posted on any new material. right now i am working on a page for page lecture of my book. it is about 50 hrs of material which i will most likely break up by sections. it would be in video format with my smartboard. in fact it will be like you are sitting in my class.
wow... just WOW... you're AMAZING. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise and I do mean EXPERTISE--this is fantastic info. And now, I'm gonna go fix my 1996 GMC K3500's problem. Every symptom you went over is what my truck is doing, including diagnostic codes (albeit it from my cheap little reader compared to yours). :) I can't thank you enough!
no problem and keep me posted on what you find. also I have some other videos on o2 sensor testing and short term and long term fuel trim if you need them
Just fixed one. Rich bank 2 code. Dropped 30 lbs fuel pressure in 2 minutes, koeo. Pinched return line, still dropped. Removed intake, pass side manifold washed clean from fuel leaking from the pressure regulator.
Thank you so much! My newer videos 2016 and up you can really start to see the production side of these videos getting to be almost as good as the content.
this video is the best i have seen yet, i have the same problem with a 1997 tahoe 5.7 when the weather breaks i am going to try this it is better than changing that spider.keep up the good work !
I've seen people use head mounted cameras, seems the amount of work you do on cars would be great for you freeing up your hands, always great videos anyway!
This is an awesome video man. I have at 95 ZR2 s10 with the same issues. Ive checked the fuel pressure and it hold, no leak down. So now im stuck, trying to figure out why its running rich and why it takes so long to start, with the gas pedal all the way down. The inside of the intake was all dirty, not clean like yours was in the vid. The person I bought the truck from has already replace a few parts. Map sensor, fuel pressure regulator, distributor cap and wires, plugs, And a few other parts. He couldn't get it to run right. Im thinking its the CPI or spider injectors, IT does have the new FPR on it though. But anyways... thanks for the amazing video man it must of took you some time. I appreciate it.
Nice. What you are describing is exactly the symptoms of a bad O2 (not a bad pump) on a Chrysler product. Watch this video "2003 Jeep Liberty O2 Bias Voltage Testing" and also "1997 Jeep Blown O2 Heater Fuse Case Study" which the 97 it had a blown fuse but a bad O2 itself will give you the same symptoms.
sounds like you know your stuff inside and out dude, bravo, more, these newer vehicles give this old man bad headaches, you make this look easy, which I am sure it is to you. Wanna be pals?
Safety glasses when disconecting the fuel lines don't forget,and would you need to stuff rags down the big open ports to avoid anything falling down them?,when dismantalling the injector assembly.Great video by the way.
@TheZenerDiode Your 2001 version is different as your design is a Sequential CPI system, meaning you have 6 electrical injectors as opposed to one in my video. Same regulator set up though and they have the same problem too.
Wonder how many of these were rebuilt or swapped after spinning a rod bearing from too much gas in the oil? I wasted a bunch of time & $700 on a non-running 94 Sonoma a few years back. Replaced the spider, starter, tune up. Got it running only to hear a knock once it warmed up.
What if you don't have a bleed down problem but 0 psi when key on position I also notice smoke coming from my throttle body when removed after truck is warmed up
IM about to do the same thing with my 1995 Blazer but I will replace the whole unit. The truck only has 60k original miles but, what many experience is the failure of the injectors and lines.....that is the lines themselves rotting. Excellent vid tho. thanks
Is it unusually warm where you are right now? If so, don't sweat this problem, it will go away when they switch over to the summer blend fuels sometime in late April or May. My truck is having the same problem and it is a vapor lock condition from the winter blend fuels.
What if you don't have any codes? And it has a long crank time when it sits for awhile? But if I shut the vehicle off then immediately restart, it starts right up. I'm thinking either a leaky injector or bad throttle body fuel pressure regulator or diaphragm... I have a in-line walbro fuel pump and it holds a steady pressure of 12.5-13psi. Oh, it's on a 1988 s10 blazer 4.3 v6 with th700r4 combo. (but swapped into a cj7 jeep). Thanks for the video. 😎
Great video, specially the part about pinching off the lines. I'm troubleshooting one in which priming pressure rises to 30 psi and quickly goes to zero. I was thinking about pinch # 1; the pressure gauge (and fuel pressure) is in between the vise grips and the return side with the regulator still in the picture. To isolate the fuel pump/check valve, would it be a good idea to disconnect the fuel filter and connect the fuel pressure gauge there? Thks
Hands down one of the most thorough and informative videos ever!!!!! I learned a lot, liked and subscribed! Thank you! If I block off EGR will that eliminate all the mess shown on the driver side of your intake (opposite the leaking FPR side which was not black)?
don't worry about how black the inside of the intake is. Every car is like this and it is from PCV gases. it doesn't hurt engine performance at all. Thanks so much!
@@ScannerDanner I have a P1404 code and a P1416 cleared them then I got a P1415 and P1404 cleared them again but P1404 persists. What happens if I eliminate all smog, EGR, Secondary air pump etc , yet leave 3 OS sensors for closed course competition of course? Getting some misfiring especially around 1500 rpms, Also some high idle and occasional idle stumbling.
@@stuartmotorsports The P1404 may need the battery disconnected to clear the memory of the closed EGR valve position ua-cam.com/video/HT4OnP4U0to/v-deo.html
Thanx for the help man, just diagnosed I have a bad fuel pump check valve in my 96 chevy. I was just about to get the FPR valve changed but it holds pressure with the PSI line pinched
You can get scan data all the way back into the 80s with GM and Chrysler. It is not the Verus that enables this. Any good scanner can do this. (Not the few hundred dollar ones)
Yes once again a video that explains every aspect. I like how you expained drill holes to let out gas and the regulator repair. If money was not a concern which pico scope would you recommend to the professionals
ty for this vid, im currently in the process of diagnosing my 01 blazer, it has nasty13mpg :-( and a slight maybe minor rough idle at times... no long crank though. debating just going for the multi port injector as its more efficient anyways, but i will definitely be following some of these tips to make sure!
Excelente vídeo muy instructivo, pero la primera vez que lo vi fue con los títulos en español, ahora lo vuelvo a abrir y me aparecen los títulos en ingles, como haría para volverlos a ver en español, gracias.
Dose a 1997 k1500 suburban L31 vortec have this same connector you used on the truck to turn on the pump and if so were is it located ,trying to perform this test 🤔
I have a 1997 tahoe with a 5.7 Vortec that has the same issue. I'm getting ready to replace the regulator. I was going to say why only the p0172 code for the one bank and not the p0175 for the other bank if the regulator is bad? but watching the video answered my question. On this truck the intake is divided in 2 halves unlike my truck where the intake isn't divided. My truck has p0172, p0175 and p0300 and has all the same symptoms.
Hello mister Paul. I had a similar problem with one car with similar fuel system (Opel Astra). I wanted to test the fuel pump if the valve in pump is not holding the pressure so I connect my fuel gauges direct to the pump inlet (I remove inlet hose from the rail) and when I manually engage the pump pressure is coming but when I disengage the pressure it is coming down rapidly so I assume the pump inside is not holding the pressure. Fuel system have a pump and a rest pressure valve on the rail.
So if I had a fuel pump assembly were I could replace just the fuel pump would just replacing the fuel pump fix the problem if it's just the check valve?
I have a 99 Sierra with the 4.3L scpi (on my channel) and I think my spider or regulator is starting to go. The only symptom I am seeing is a rough start, (usually just takes longer than normal to start) only when it is warm. If the truck has sat over night it will fire right up but if i run it for an hour then shut it off, wait 5 mins and then fire it back up it has a hard time. truck hasn't thrown any codes. Is the beginning of a failing spider? Any ideas yall? Thanks.
I think I'm having this issue, occasional check engine light and poor gas mileage I even smell fuel near the intake plenum. Any ideas? I'm going to change the oil and get a code reader I'd hate for this to lead to a blown up engine or any real bad issues.
a GM regulator would have FIT. I CAN understand using a "HELP" part if NOTHING ELSE is available. but that's not likely the case here. you could have gotten at least a good OEM brand. OTHER THAN THAT, GREAT diagnosis tips. shalom
Excellent video! My truck is holding fuel pressure fine but i think i may not be getting fuel to the 4 & 6 cylinder. Is there any way to check for a clogged line or poppet valve? My temperature gun tells me those two cylinders aren't firing. Spark and compression are good. Any ideas??
Thanks man! I don't think that's the issue because the truck has been doing this sense last July. I've had a shop take a look at it (when it first started doing it) and they said that its an issue with the spider/regulator. How long do you think I can get away with this? Also if and when I replace it, should I upgrade to the mpfi spider while I'm at it? I think I'm going to replace everything even if its just the regulator while I'm in there. It just needs to make it till this summer!
An also when you hit the gas the fuel trim number drop to zero! So whatever the problem is its affecting it at idle or when vacuum is high! An when driving at bout 5% throttle I can watch fuel trim number crawl up to -30% an then it will start hesitating like someone is flicking a switch for the fuel pump!
1994 s10 2.2 run rough when cold and stumble when warm and hot run fine. But when disconnect alternator runs good cold or hot. We replace three alternator tune up ect. What you think could be wrong? Please help
I have a 95 cpi and I thought it was gonna be the regulator or injector I hooked up pressure gauge and it’s at 48psi and when I hit gas it goes down 5psi but when I turn pump off it doesn’t loose pressure . Fuel pump you think ? Symptoms is rough idle no start in morning sometimes and dies out at red lights sometimes thanks !
Yes sir. Check pump powers and grounds to be sure. Change the pump and fuel filter. But do a dead head test first (pinch off the return line momentarily) psi should go to about 100 psi. If it does, your psi regulator is bad. If it doesn't, If it stays at 48, the pump is the problem. Continue then with the power and ground test before replacing
A simple "Thank you" is waaay short of the gratitude I have for your excellent knowledge and teaching skills. You have just saved me tons of heartache and head scratching.
These regulators have killed more trucks with spiders than we could ever know.
Something else I must share is the oil pressure switch, located on the back of the block, can go bad causing rough idle, mysterious dieing, and no fuel pump voltage (improper voltage).
They have a set if contact points inside and can either burn or internal spring failure.
Its in a tough spot to service but a $21 pressure switch can save your truck.
Thanks so much Michael. Just knowing these videos are still helping people is all that matters!
This is a great example of someone who truly understands the "why", not just the "what".
Excellent.
I purchased this truck in a garage sale here in Forida for $800.00 four years ago. seller thought engine was blown. I bought as is. water in oil. I tested every cylinder perfect compression. intake manifold gasket failed. I replaced total coolant system and gaskets. flushed the engine. extended cab 4wd truck. Its been my daily driver for the last 4 years. ac was shot, 1k to fix. no thank you. overall excellent truck.
Excellent presentation by a technician who truly understands the system at hand.
Well done, sir. 👍
Hi Paul, thank you for these detailed diagnostic videos! Just made a quick buck with my scan tool and fuel pressure gauge for this exact internal leak issue on a 2001 Blazer. I am in the process of establishing my own shop here in central PA, specializing in automotive diagnostics. Keep up the awesome work, you are my inspiration to battle the parts changers!
awesome man thank you!
This lad knows his onions, i love to see a proper diagnostician at work.
Great video. Back when I was green, the ex wife had a 93 S-10 blazer with this problem. I chased it for a week before consulting someone with more experience, who told me this was a common issue. This video sure would have helped!
Great video very well done. It's really nice to have someone that really knows what's going on and show how to do this stuff the RIGHT way. Thank you
Instablaster
I know this is a 10 year old video, but it is exactly what i needed! About to tear into my 94 with the CPI. Looooong crank, running very rich. Thanks for this!
Heck yeah, awesome. Thanks!
I'm 54, my life would have been different if I'd had the internet when I was 18 years old. Thanks for sharing you're knowledge Scanner Danner.
Me too my friend, thanks!
@Drlovemachine Agree again, but we used what was available. But it is a good lesson on using aftermarket parts and the trouble you can run into
That was easily the most informative, well spoken and educational videos I’ve come across since I got my s10 blazer. Same exact condition on my truck so this helped me out a ton. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I want to "plus 1" all of the positive comments below. The troubleshooting steps were awesome and spot on for my 94 S-10. I saw a few folks ask about changing the Fuel Pressure Regulator while still in the car but as I've completed the job, I'm not going to search for the answer at this time. If it HASN'T been answered, I would LOVE to suggest that as an option if its possible. That part was all that was wrong ($50) but I broke the plastic tabs on one very difficult popette. So, $240 later, I now have an all new spider injector assembly. My suggestion would be to squeeze the clips with one hand and wiggle / pull the plastic (not the fuel line) with needle nose pliers. I think the ring of plastic near the tip of the popette is more solid than trying to wiggle the clips. Anyway, thanks for giving me the confidence to tackle the job.
+searnhardt8 thanks man and nice job. Unfortunately those plastic tabs are brittle. I've done these with one broken clip and they hold, but not two. Sorry you had to change the whole thing.
Hi ScannerDanner. Because your videos over the years have been so helpful and because you've answered my questions in the comments sections of your videos, I have bought your ebook! Thanks!
Thanks man! I really appreciate that. More than you know.
This helped me figure out what was going on with the fuel pressure drop in my 2000 4.3. Also now I know I have a SCPI system which has a similar FP regulator. The test on the fuel lines are very helpful to know. I'm a premium member and have the book yet still find your perfect vid I need hand fed to me by UA-cams algorithm. Thanks for your years of compiling all this information. I love it!
Thank you so much Steve!
Great training I have a 95 SS CPI S-10. This video helped me get her running better than ever thank you
You are one of the best teachers of anything on UA-cam
Awesome video! You did a wonderful job explaining everything and you gave me all the information I need to tackle the same issue in my GMC Safari. I am very thankful for your efforts 🙏 bless you!
My son had me watch this video so I would know what he has to do to my Safari van. Same engine as this one. Very informative and it will help him get the job done. He is a good home mechanic. I am blessed by him and this video.
This is extremely helpful. Not much of a GM mechanic since I have only owned imports. My brother has a 92 Oldmobile Bravada that I have changed the Fuel Pump fuse and fuel filter, Cleaned the after market K&N cone filter. Ive put fuel treatment in it. Hasn't been able to start on its own, just long strung out cranks with foot to floor.
Step 1 is to definitely check your fuel psi. There is a service port on the intake area and you can buy that particular psi gauge to fit specifically your application for like $30? Or rent one from the parts store? Less than 50 psi on these things and they will not start. Then also major flooding from the regulator rupturing, which again can be determined with that same psi gauge
Great video, hoping to receive my copy of your book in the mail today. I was wondering why fuel pressure went up when you opened the throttle then a few minutes later you explained it, fantastic.
Thank You, Paul Great Detail. Love your work. Great Role model for us who really care about what we do. GB
Brother u got the best video I've seen about fixing something
Brother I just watch this video of you doing this job I want to thank you very much for the inside on this I have a 99 S10 LS
Thank you! Glad it helped
I'm not a mechanic but it helps to see what's involved.
I would agree. As far as replacing the whole unit, I wouldn't do that. Your truck is a newer design and uses 6 separate electrical injectors as opposed to one. So it is called a Sequential Central Port Injection system. (SCPI) I believe the injectors are sold separately but I may be wrong, it's been a long time since I have been inside one of those. As for troubleshooting a leaking regulator. It would be the same steps I've shown in this video. Fuel pressure bleed-down test is the key.
That's a great point about maintaining pressure to prevent fuel boiling on the rail. No doubt that's a point made as a result of unfortunate experience. The lighting is great in this video.
You r my fav. youtube channel.If your school ever makes a stink of you filming,you can say that if a student misses a day,he/she can watch what u filmed so that person does not get behind.I know that missing 1 day of Tech school,you miss ALOT.I look forward to your videos & hope to be as knowledgable as u someday.I will also click on all your ads to help u out everytime I watch your videosKeep up the awesome work.Thumbs up everytime too
This was awesome. I’ve been going nuts trying to figure out where I was leaking fuel out of my 94 S10
Pinch pliers,not vise grips. Lol, had a guy that worked for me that used vise grips and cut 3 different lines until he bought some pinch tools. Great video and knowledge as usual.
had this problem on my 5.7 and updated to multi port injection while I was in there best thing I ever did for my truck !
that's great! thanks for the update. ill keep u posted on any new material. right now i am working on a page for page lecture of my book. it is about 50 hrs of material which i will most likely break up by sections. it would be in video format with my smartboard. in fact it will be like you are sitting in my class.
wow... just WOW... you're AMAZING. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise and I do mean EXPERTISE--this is fantastic info. And now, I'm gonna go fix my 1996 GMC K3500's problem. Every symptom you went over is what my truck is doing, including diagnostic codes (albeit it from my cheap little reader compared to yours). :) I can't thank you enough!
Paul, you are a walking, talking automotive repair manual. Wish I could retain half of what you do.
no problem and keep me posted on what you find. also I have some other videos on o2 sensor testing and short term and long term fuel trim if you need them
Yes, as the check valve is part of the pump itself.
Just fixed one. Rich bank 2 code. Dropped 30 lbs fuel pressure in 2 minutes, koeo. Pinched return line, still dropped. Removed intake, pass side manifold washed clean from fuel leaking from the pressure regulator.
You are a true professional this is the best video I've ever seen. I think you solved the problem for my 03 Blazer.
Thank you so much! My newer videos 2016 and up you can really start to see the production side of these videos getting to be almost as good as the content.
this video is the best i have seen yet, i have the same problem with a 1997 tahoe 5.7 when the weather breaks i am going to try this it is better than changing that spider.keep up the good work !
Very nice i have been debating trying not to throw parts at my blazer. Has been a test for me since I bought it
I've put hundreds of dollars n multiple mechanics n this is the 1st ive seen im sure this is the reason
Good luck! Do your pressure bleed down tests I showed before pulling the intake off
I've seen people use head mounted cameras, seems the amount of work you do on cars would be great for you freeing up your hands, always great videos anyway!
This is an awesome video man. I have at 95 ZR2 s10 with the same issues. Ive checked the fuel pressure and it hold, no leak down. So now im stuck, trying to figure out why its running rich and why it takes so long to start, with the gas pedal all the way down. The inside of the intake was all dirty, not clean like yours was in the vid. The person I bought the truck from has already replace a few parts. Map sensor, fuel pressure regulator, distributor cap and wires, plugs, And a few other parts. He couldn't get it to run right. Im thinking its the CPI or spider injectors, IT does have the new FPR on it though. But anyways... thanks for the amazing video man it must of took you some time. I appreciate it.
Double check all your grounds there are many. Clean them with sand paper or wire brush and use electric grease
Nice. What you are describing is exactly the symptoms of a bad O2 (not a bad pump) on a Chrysler product. Watch this video "2003 Jeep Liberty O2 Bias Voltage Testing" and also "1997 Jeep Blown O2 Heater Fuse Case Study" which the 97 it had a blown fuse but a bad O2 itself will give you the same symptoms.
sounds like you know your stuff inside and out dude, bravo, more, these newer vehicles give this old man bad headaches, you make this look easy, which I am sure it is to you. Wanna be pals?
Safety glasses when disconecting the fuel lines don't forget,and would you need to stuff rags down the big open ports to avoid anything falling down them?,when dismantalling the injector assembly.Great video by the way.
@TheZenerDiode Your 2001 version is different as your design is a Sequential CPI system, meaning you have 6 electrical injectors as opposed to one in my video. Same regulator set up though and they have the same problem too.
Wonder how many of these were rebuilt or swapped after spinning a rod bearing from too much gas in the oil? I wasted a bunch of time & $700 on a non-running 94 Sonoma a few years back. Replaced the spider, starter, tune up. Got it running only to hear a knock once it warmed up.
EXTREMELY useful video! Helped me out a bunch. You seem to be a really knowledgeable guy
What if you don't have a bleed down problem but 0 psi when key on position I also notice smoke coming from my throttle body when removed after truck is warmed up
amazing!! I see why they call it the spider..
Love your user name! A Father to the fatherless He is too!
IM about to do the same thing with my 1995 Blazer but I will replace the whole unit. The truck only has 60k original miles but, what many experience is the failure of the injectors and lines.....that is the lines themselves rotting. Excellent vid tho. thanks
Is it unusually warm where you are right now? If so, don't sweat this problem, it will go away when they switch over to the summer blend fuels sometime in late April or May. My truck is having the same problem and it is a vapor lock condition from the winter blend fuels.
Very cool!, had a similar situation on a Safari Van with a similar system. Problem was all fuel lines are metal and couldn't pinch to verify.
What if you don't have any codes? And it has a long crank time when it sits for awhile? But if I shut the vehicle off then immediately restart, it starts right up.
I'm thinking either a leaky injector or bad throttle body fuel pressure regulator or diaphragm...
I have a in-line walbro fuel pump and it holds a steady pressure of 12.5-13psi.
Oh, it's on a 1988 s10 blazer 4.3 v6 with th700r4 combo. (but swapped into a cj7 jeep).
Thanks for the video. 😎
Great video, specially the part about pinching off the lines. I'm troubleshooting one in which priming pressure rises to 30 psi and quickly goes to zero. I was thinking about pinch # 1; the pressure gauge (and fuel pressure) is in between the vise grips and the return side with the regulator still in the picture. To isolate the fuel pump/check valve, would it be a good idea to disconnect the fuel filter and connect the fuel pressure gauge there? Thks
Thanks friend, glad you liked it
@TheZenerDiode Make sure your EGR valve isn't sticking open (it will set a code for this)
Hands down one of the most thorough and informative videos ever!!!!! I learned a lot, liked and subscribed! Thank you! If I block off EGR will that eliminate all the mess shown on the driver side of your intake (opposite the leaking FPR side which was not black)?
don't worry about how black the inside of the intake is. Every car is like this and it is from PCV gases. it doesn't hurt engine performance at all. Thanks so much!
@@ScannerDanner I have a P1404 code and a P1416 cleared them then I got a P1415 and P1404 cleared them again but P1404 persists. What happens if I eliminate all smog, EGR, Secondary air pump etc , yet leave 3 OS sensors for closed course competition of course? Getting some misfiring especially around 1500 rpms, Also some high idle and occasional idle stumbling.
@@stuartmotorsports The P1404 may need the battery disconnected to clear the memory of the closed EGR valve position ua-cam.com/video/HT4OnP4U0to/v-deo.html
Thank you and will do.
Love the knowledge dropped on this video.
@MiniFun92 that's great! did you like our last video? it was fun shooting with Eric.
Thanx for the help man, just diagnosed I have a bad fuel pump check valve in my 96 chevy. I was just about to get the FPR valve changed but it holds pressure with the PSI line pinched
Nice job man! Way to pay attention to detail. Even though everyone was probably telling you to put the injector assembly in it.
ScannerDanner no kidding, it is a very similar symptom, but I'm getting a TPS code, and the gas mileage is normal, thanks again for your help
@MrJgonzalez2 OBD1 half breed, since it is a 95 I don't think it is fully OBD II compliant but I could be wrong
Your video was the best ive seen so far i was looking for that valve to test fuel pressure thank you so much
You are very welcome
Yes! Great question
what a great presentation and teacher!
This video was super helpful! Thanks so much.
You got it wright all replay regulators are to be modified
You can get scan data all the way back into the 80s with GM and Chrysler. It is not the Verus that enables this. Any good scanner can do this. (Not the few hundred dollar ones)
You still mechanicing?
Very informative, excellent video. Thank you !
Yes once again a video that explains every aspect. I like how you expained drill holes to let out gas and the regulator repair. If money was not a concern which pico scope would you recommend to the professionals
The automotive 4 channel kit (4425 I believe). If you are interested in buying one, you can find it here www.scannerdanner.com/lab-scopes.html
ty for this vid, im currently in the process of diagnosing my 01 blazer, it has nasty13mpg :-( and a slight maybe minor rough idle at times... no long crank though. debating just going for the multi port injector as its more efficient anyways, but i will definitely be following some of these tips to make sure!
Ac delco regulator is the factory GM Brand and has exact specs to fit.
Excelente vídeo muy instructivo, pero la primera vez que lo vi fue con los títulos en español, ahora lo vuelvo a abrir y me aparecen los títulos en ingles, como haría para volverlos a ver en español, gracias.
very informative and with a great attitude! THANK YOU
@ScannerDanner I coulda swore they didnt have multi port with the injectors on the legs until 03' though, but ill look into it.
How do u do this test if u have braided hose?
Great Video... But...If I had to replace the fuel pressure regulator on this engine... I would just upgrade it to MPI while I was in there....
Dose a 1997 k1500 suburban L31 vortec have this same connector you used on the truck to turn on the pump and if so were is it located ,trying to perform this test 🤔
I have a 1997 tahoe with a 5.7 Vortec that has the same issue. I'm getting ready to replace the regulator. I was going to say why only the p0172 code for the one bank and not the p0175 for the other bank if the regulator is bad? but watching the video answered my question. On this truck the intake is divided in 2 halves unlike my truck where the intake isn't divided. My truck has p0172, p0175 and p0300 and has all the same symptoms.
Thank you I've been wondering what the hell that wire connector went to
Good explanation... You Know Scannerdanner. I am right now purchasing your book. just to show you my sopport. thanks again
Hello mister Paul. I had a similar problem with one car with similar fuel system (Opel Astra). I wanted to test the fuel pump if the valve in pump is not holding the pressure so I connect my fuel gauges direct to the pump inlet (I remove inlet hose from the rail) and when I manually engage the pump pressure is coming but when I disengage the pressure it is coming down rapidly so I assume the pump inside is not holding the pressure. Fuel system have a pump and a rest pressure valve on the rail.
excellent video, thank you for the information
The question I have for you is what are you do you put on the new fuel pressure regulator but it will not let you get to the injectors
Awesome! thanks for the feedback
So if I had a fuel pump assembly were I could replace just the fuel pump would just replacing the fuel pump fix the problem if it's just the check valve?
I have a 99 Sierra with the 4.3L scpi (on my channel) and I think my spider or regulator is starting to go. The only symptom I am seeing is a rough start, (usually just takes longer than normal to start) only when it is warm. If the truck has sat over night it will fire right up but if i run it for an hour then shut it off, wait 5 mins and then fire it back up it has a hard time. truck hasn't thrown any codes. Is the beginning of a failing spider? Any ideas yall? Thanks.
I think I'm having this issue, occasional check engine light and poor gas mileage I even smell fuel near the intake plenum. Any ideas? I'm going to change the oil and get a code reader I'd hate for this to lead to a blown up engine or any real bad issues.
a GM regulator would have FIT. I CAN understand using a "HELP" part if NOTHING ELSE is available. but that's not likely the case here. you could have gotten at least a good OEM brand. OTHER THAN THAT, GREAT diagnosis tips. shalom
@blessedthelord possibly as long as the housing doesn't need modified like in my video
Really good video. Very informative. 👍😎👍
Excellent video! My truck is holding fuel pressure fine but i think i may not be getting fuel to the 4 & 6 cylinder. Is there any way to check for a clogged line or poppet valve? My temperature gun tells me those two cylinders aren't firing. Spark and compression are good. Any ideas??
if it is the check valve in the tank do you have to replace the whole fuel pump assembly?
Thanks man! I don't think that's the issue because the truck has been doing this sense last July. I've had a shop take a look at it (when it first started doing it) and they said that its an issue with the spider/regulator. How long do you think I can get away with this? Also if and when I replace it, should I upgrade to the mpfi spider while I'm at it? I think I'm going to replace everything even if its just the regulator while I'm in there. It just needs to make it till this summer!
An also when you hit the gas the fuel trim number drop to zero!
So whatever the problem is its affecting it at idle or when vacuum is high!
An when driving at bout 5% throttle I can watch fuel trim number crawl up to -30% an then it will start hesitating like someone is flicking a switch for the fuel pump!
1994 s10 2.2 run rough when cold and stumble when warm and hot run fine. But when disconnect alternator runs good cold or hot. We replace three alternator tune up ect. What you think could be wrong? Please help
What should the static pressure be on the SCPI System?
Como quisiera estar en una de sus clases. Excelente.
I have a 95 cpi and I thought it was gonna be the regulator or injector I hooked up pressure gauge and it’s at 48psi and when I hit gas it goes down 5psi but when I turn pump off it doesn’t loose pressure . Fuel pump you think ? Symptoms is rough idle no start in morning sometimes and dies out at red lights sometimes thanks !
Yes sir. Check pump powers and grounds to be sure. Change the pump and fuel filter. But do a dead head test first (pinch off the return line momentarily) psi should go to about 100 psi. If it does, your psi regulator is bad. If it doesn't, If it stays at 48, the pump is the problem. Continue then with the power and ground test before replacing