I just went ahead and used “lexel” it’s the best sealant on the market for everything literally. “It sticks to glass but don’t take my word for it “ right off the bottle.
My Friend, I have run what must be thousands of feet of calk due to my line of work. I can tell you not many people can run a "clean" bead of calk without a LOT of practice. Let me compliment you on your calking ability! I would suggest you stop by the next Sherwin Williams store you pass and buy a great calk gun. I can tell you, IT'S WORTH the $13 or so dollars!
During my 8-year part-time college career, on which I did graduate, I was a full-time waterproofing contractor and we used Albion caulk guns. Definitely nice, but overkill for occasional work. I agree with Kevin Loving that you caulked a nice uniform bead, and like Kevin Long, I've caulked a few thousand feet of caulk too. Kudos!
Lol can't get a long enough period of time without a downpour around here. If there is a sealant that works at below freezing temps that would be the stuff. Because winter is the dry season with weeks long stretches of arctic high pressure and sunshine. Summer is full of daily thunderstorms, hailstorms, and even days long deluges.
My roof membrane is a TPO material, not EPDM. It’s made by Alpha Systems, so I use their self-levelling caulk on that membrane. I use ProFlex RV for vertical seams.
Thank you for the tips. I’ve got a couple of lakes in my RV that I’ve got to get fixed today before these double hurricanes hit the Texas coast or I am in a doozy. Thank you again and God bless
I like your "repurposed" bucket. Dicor is available at WalMart so it is easy to get. I don't like getting on my roof because it is 13' 3" high and I ain't a small person. I do clean it and inspect it every 3-6 months.
I use Meguiar's G17748 Ultimate Wash & Wax to wash my TPO roof on my Jayco Travel Trailer. Then I let it dry then spray Armor All UV protectant on. Works quite well for me so far!
Another 2 thumbs up! Good video that shows a bit of the prep and caulking which is so helpful and stresses the importance of preparation. Visual learners need this kind of video. Thanks!
Excellent video! I loved the three scenes of you. I am looking forward to seeing more of these videos. Thank you so much for showing me how to do the chalking.
I'm bummed that Dicor isn't avail on Prime. I'm long over due for sealant, but I guess I wasn't going to do this on the road anyway. This will be my first project when we get "home" for a bit.
+Keep Your Daydream yeah you're right, we have always had to purchase it from rv stores. We do usually travel with a tube of it just in case we have a leak that needs to be taken care of right away. We always have lots of projects to take care of once we get back to Arizona. It is so much easier to do here than while we are on the road
The manufacturer wants you to use a detergent that has abrasives and optical brighteners becauee it shortens the lifespan of your roof. Period. The best product to use thats easy om both epdm and tpo is a simple cleaner like simple green and water. Persoanlly, i think dicor is an inferior prduct. Its alwo manufacturered by the rv industry and contains chemicals they instruct you not tonuse on the roofing. For the verticle surfaces and at any opening in the side i use a good sealant callee OSI quad. Lasts much longer than dicor and provides better protection. For the roof i use a product called sikaflex 715. Its about the same peice as dixor and soooooo much netter. Lasts longer and it doesnt contain mineral spirits, so no damage to the roof. And the adheaion is far superior.
I need to lap seal and do the membrane paint thaing. Problem is lap seal takes 30 days and membrane only 48hr's to cure and I might get rain in less than 20 days. Should I do the membrane paint first than lap seal ? Or cover with tarp and do it right during spring ?
Thanks for the info, as far as roof leak protection, I've seen on some of these other UA-cam RV sites, they put Eternabond tape on top and over the lap seal, on the vents, seams and fittings as a extra layer of protection, is that a good idea and/or necessary?
I have this exact question as well! Seems from what I’ve seen it’s a matter of preference by the owner- I just resealed my vintage camper vent / came with a known leak - from what I e seen on that some do just lap, some do lap then eterna bond/ I’m doing lap with eterna bond over it. Was wondering same with seams on roof. Glad to see someone else had the same question- not just me
I suspect the reason they are specific to powder Tide is the non-disolveable fillers. The little balls you find in your clothes are those fillers. They put fillers in just to take up space in the box so you think you get a lot of detergent. There are no solid fillers in liquids. The fillers act as little scrubbers in an application such as this.
We are going full time soon and I'm enjoying your videos. One question, though it may sound dumb. Living in our RV, where would we find a place to be able to wash it ourselves?
@@mattharper588 Not necessarily true. Many RV parks do not allow you to a) use their water supply for washing vehicles/RV or b) even allow you to wash with an auxiliary supply of water.
I really appreciate your time you put into your channel. Question: most of the seals seem to be butyl. Is that what you trim out and clean up with mineral spirits? Thanks
All About RV's I finally got up on top of mine, I just bought it used and it’s been icy here. It appears to be metal with some grey paint looking stuff that’s cracked on the edges and where there are any things sticking through. It’s built up thick around the air units and bolts but doesn’t look like tar. I videoed if that’ll help but I’m not sure my next step.
Hi! So happy to find your channel! I need to get this done but not sure how much sealant to buy. I'm an Senior (Lady) and will have to have someone do it and want to make sure they use the best product as well as having enough. I understand that you can't possibly be exact; not knowing the condition of my CAMPER. However, based on knowing it's 25 ft Fleetwood with small slide out could you give me an approximate on # of tubes I might need (normal wear/tear)? I'd really appreciate it so much. Won't hold you to it, just need an idea. Thanks so very much! Thanks also for the education on "how to". Well Done!!
Get rid of the caulking and put a gasket underneath it. Moving shaking twisting boxes of metal going down the road will always need new caulking if that is what you use to seal all things, but you do keep the caulking companies in business.
butly tape or make your own closed cell foam or closed cell neoprene gasket there are even sheets of rubber gasket you can buy to make your own if you can not find a actual gasket for the specific light. If it is "RV" specific chances are they do not make a actual gasket for it.
I just replaced a light for a customer using butyl tape sandwiched between the light and the unit, and finished off with clear Proflex. The Dicor non-leveling caulk would work as well.
@@mathewshoyt1763 Absolutely! Check out Love Your RV on UA-cam. He has perhaps gone a little overboard with it, but it seems to have held up well. He has several videos about his use of Eternabond.
Your channel is ALWAYS my go-to for solid RV questions, thanks!! The dicor non-leveling sealant that you recommend for the vertical seams...do you also recommend that for re-sealing around the windows? I was thinking of going with a UV resistant, flexible exterior silicone caulk. Is there a reason NOT to use a product like that?
I am new to the trailer world. I cannot believe these are designs this way.........I'm sure the most recent models aren't but I cannot believe the amount of caulk and upkeep needed to keep these things water tight. Talk about poor engineering and design. I cannot imagine the time, effort and cost it would take to reseal and entire RV. My mind is blown.
Welcome to the world of RV`s where the only priority in manufacturing is the speed in which the RV can be completed. Also the engineering is quite bad at best and sometimes horrible. The use the cheapest fixtures and connections throughout and they simply don`t last. If you own an RV - be prepared to learn to fix all kinds of problems. Examples: your propane regulator near the tanks will fail after 5 to 7 years or sooner causing partial or total loss of propane to the stove and heaters. You can get a loss of electricity over the kitchen sink outlet only to find after several hours searching that the Ground Fault on the outlet in the bathroom had tripped and they are connected somehow. The roof requires an annual cleaning - inspection and application of PROPER sealant at any sign of cracking or deterioration. That being said there is a wonderful socialization effect that occurs at any campsite and the friendships made are priceless.
The absolute truth...these are junk..this is why people are converting aluminum cargo trailers. Luan, garden hose and glue. The bonus ...worthless in 10 years
Henry's product is NOT (just) asphalt based (04:09). Mis-info is worse than no info! Henry makes literally dozens of coating and sealing products. I am researching the silicon coatings being offered by all of the big name RV maintenance product suppliers. Need to find: What type of primer is suggested and how to determine need. Can it go over existing sealants/caulks. Specific caulk/sealants are made for (after/subsequent) later. Can that sealant be used against standard RV type plastics, fitting, windows, etc...
The reflection in your sunglasses says there is no one standing around laughing at you about a bucket, just your camera and tripod. Maybe the camera's name is Chris?
You don’t use dicor on side seams roof only the caulk was to be flexible you guys need to quit listening to some body who thinks they know what is best I am a rv tech of 20+ years you use a good grade of silicone and it will last 4 to years if done properly that being said you still inspect all your seams and roof yearly
Sharon oddlyenough unless you really know what you are doing I don’t recommend proflex I have used it before but I find it really sticky for my taste I prefer temper 645 caulk
I just went ahead and used “lexel” it’s the best sealant on the market for everything literally. “It sticks to glass but don’t take my word for it “ right off the bottle.
You're the only person who removes the old stuff. Only way I plan on doing it. Thanks for the reassurance
Nice that you give the option of jumping to the caulk type.
Your videos are so instructive. My kiddo loves watching your work.
My Friend, I have run what must be thousands of feet of calk due to my line of work. I can tell you not many people can run a "clean" bead of calk without a LOT of practice. Let me compliment you on your calking ability! I would suggest you stop by the next Sherwin Williams store you pass and buy a great calk gun. I can tell you, IT'S WORTH the $13 or so dollars!
Kevin, Curious exactly which caulking gun from Sherwin williams?
During my 8-year part-time college career, on which I did graduate, I was a full-time waterproofing contractor and we used Albion caulk guns. Definitely nice, but overkill for occasional work. I agree with Kevin Loving that you caulked a nice uniform bead, and like Kevin Long, I've caulked a few thousand feet of caulk too. Kudos!
Lol can't get a long enough period of time without a downpour around here. If there is a sealant that works at below freezing temps that would be the stuff. Because winter is the dry season with weeks long stretches of arctic high pressure and sunshine. Summer is full of daily thunderstorms, hailstorms, and even days long deluges.
My roof membrane is a TPO material, not EPDM. It’s made by Alpha Systems, so I use their self-levelling caulk on that membrane. I use ProFlex RV for vertical seams.
Dicor is what we just got done using for our Airstream Argosy renovation and it did amazing! Glad to know you used it as well!
Thank you for the tips. I’ve got a couple of lakes in my RV that I’ve got to get fixed today before these double hurricanes hit the Texas coast or I am in a doozy. Thank you again and God bless
I like your "repurposed" bucket. Dicor is available at WalMart so it is easy to get. I don't like getting on my roof because it is 13' 3" high and I ain't a small person. I do clean it and inspect it every 3-6 months.
I use Meguiar's G17748 Ultimate Wash & Wax to wash my TPO roof on my Jayco Travel Trailer. Then I let it dry then spray Armor All UV protectant on. Works quite well for me so far!
Prep is so important I always get impatient thanks for that reminder.I really liked the three Jareds.
Another 2 thumbs up! Good video that shows a bit of the prep and caulking which is so helpful and stresses the importance of preparation. Visual learners need this kind of video. Thanks!
+COgal H. Thanks!
Excellent video! I loved the three scenes of you. I am looking forward to seeing more of these videos. Thank you so much for showing me how to do the chalking.
+A Heart Beat thank you!
Great job on the "3 of you" scene. Your videography just keeps getting better and better. Sorry I put this in 2 comments.
What is the caulk or sealant they use inside the rv like around the walls and ac unit?
Very informative. Thanks! 🙂
Dawn liquid is the current Dicor recommendation for Dicor rubber roofs.
I'm bummed that Dicor isn't avail on Prime. I'm long over due for sealant, but I guess I wasn't going to do this on the road anyway. This will be my first project when we get "home" for a bit.
+Keep Your Daydream yeah you're right, we have always had to purchase it from rv stores. We do usually travel with a tube of it just in case we have a leak that needs to be taken care of right away. We always have lots of projects to take care of once we get back to Arizona. It is so much easier to do here than while we are on the road
Keep Your Daydream I just bought Dicor from Amazon Prime. :)
How many tube of chalking for the side would say I need for a 21ft TT? And for the roof?
The manufacturer wants you to use a detergent that has abrasives and optical brighteners becauee it shortens the lifespan of your roof. Period. The best product to use thats easy om both epdm and tpo is a simple cleaner like simple green and water.
Persoanlly, i think dicor is an inferior prduct. Its alwo manufacturered by the rv industry and contains chemicals they instruct you not tonuse on the roofing. For the verticle surfaces and at any opening in the side i use a good sealant callee OSI quad. Lasts much longer than dicor and provides better protection. For the roof i use a product called sikaflex 715. Its about the same peice as dixor and soooooo much netter. Lasts longer and it doesnt contain mineral spirits, so no damage to the roof. And the adheaion is far superior.
I’m going to try the Sikaflex 715
@@AllAboutRVs Any update on the Sikaflex 715?
I need to lap seal and do the membrane paint thaing. Problem is lap seal takes 30 days and membrane only 48hr's to cure and I might get rain in less than 20 days. Should I do the membrane paint first than lap seal ? Or cover with tarp and do it right during spring ?
Thanks for the info, as far as roof leak protection, I've seen on some of these other UA-cam RV sites, they put Eternabond tape on top and over the lap seal, on the vents, seams and fittings as a extra layer of protection, is that a good idea and/or necessary?
I have this exact question as well!
Seems from what I’ve seen it’s a matter of preference by the owner- I just resealed my vintage camper vent / came with a known leak - from what I e seen on that some do just lap, some do lap then eterna bond/ I’m doing lap with eterna bond over it. Was wondering same with seams on roof. Glad to see someone else had the same question- not just me
I suspect the reason they are specific to powder Tide is the non-disolveable fillers. The little balls you find in your clothes are those fillers. They put fillers in just to take up space in the box so you think you get a lot of detergent. There are no solid fillers in liquids. The fillers act as little scrubbers in an application such as this.
I’ll just scrub with Dawn in that case. Lazy man’s soap means nothing to RV people.
I'm so excited about your new channel!!! Congratulations!
+Tammie Stephen thank you!
We are going full time soon and I'm enjoying your videos. One question, though it may sound dumb. Living in our RV, where would we find a place to be able to wash it ourselves?
When your set up at the RV park people do it all the time
@@mattharper588 Not necessarily true. Many RV parks do not allow you to a) use their water supply for washing vehicles/RV or b) even allow you to wash with an auxiliary supply of water.
I really appreciate your time you put into your channel.
Question: most of the seals seem to be butyl. Is that what you trim out and clean up with mineral spirits? Thanks
Thank you, Yes it is.
To be clear, the EPDM rubber seal is only if your RV has a rubber membrane around the AC units and such, right?
Yes correct
All About RV's I finally got up on top of mine, I just bought it used and it’s been icy here. It appears to be metal with some grey paint looking stuff that’s cracked on the edges and where there are any things sticking through. It’s built up thick around the air units and bolts but doesn’t look like tar. I videoed if that’ll help but I’m not sure my next step.
Loved the triplets scrubbing!!! Haha.
good job
Thanks
Great video man! Question: at minute 6:08 are you using a self leveling product on a vertical surface?
I had 2 different kinds there the leveling and non self leveling.
Nice very helpful
Can I also use this product on a tent trailer roof that's leaking?
Hi! So happy to find your channel! I need to get this done but not sure how much sealant to buy. I'm an Senior (Lady) and will have to have someone do it and want to make sure they use the best product as well as having enough. I understand that you can't possibly be exact; not knowing the condition of my CAMPER. However, based on knowing it's 25 ft Fleetwood with small slide out could you give me an approximate on # of tubes I might need (normal wear/tear)? I'd really appreciate it so much. Won't hold you to it, just need an idea. Thanks so very much! Thanks also for the education on "how to". Well Done!!
I would get 2 tubes of caulking. If it’s not bad up there it might take just one.
All About RV's Thank you so much for your reply! I sincerely appreciate it! Continued successes on your channel!! ☺️
That's was a great job.
Keep it up👍
Question-why does our air conditioner freeze up while operating causing leaks? It doesn’t leak in the rain, so obviously a problem with the air.
Make sure your RV is level when using the A/C.
what do you recommend for re-caulking marker lights, tail lights, etc?
Get rid of the caulking and put a gasket underneath it. Moving shaking twisting boxes of metal going down the road will always need new caulking if that is what you use to seal all things, but you do keep the caulking companies in business.
butly tape or make your own closed cell foam or closed cell neoprene gasket there are even sheets of rubber gasket you can buy to make your own if you can not find a actual gasket for the specific light. If it is "RV" specific chances are they do not make a actual gasket for it.
I just replaced a light for a customer using butyl tape sandwiched between the light and the unit, and finished off with clear Proflex. The Dicor non-leveling caulk would work as well.
Have you heard of FLEX SEAL? If so, would you recommend it for say the roof area.
I would stay away from flexseal. RVs are one of the most tricky items to get a good seal on.
Thank you, we love your channel. Stay safe.
Would you use Eternabond?
@@mathewshoyt1763 Absolutely! Check out Love Your RV on UA-cam. He has perhaps gone a little overboard with it, but it seems to have held up well. He has several videos about his use of Eternabond.
Anyone else not happy with Henry’s??
Thanks for the great info!
Thank you!
New to your channel Love your posts. great job! Question though. When you say "Tide" @1:40 care to expand on that? just curious.
Why Tide ? And what about waxing ?
Your channel is ALWAYS my go-to for solid RV questions, thanks!! The dicor non-leveling sealant that you recommend for the vertical seams...do you also recommend that for re-sealing around the windows? I was thinking of going with a UV resistant, flexible exterior silicone caulk. Is there a reason NOT to use a product like that?
Do you always remove the old caulk first?
Yes, as much as we possibly can
Great info. Looks like your new channel will be great.
+Jean Decker thank you!
Good information!
+Mark Jones thank you!
Your roof caulking link is broken..
Why would you not use a clean bucket what is wrong with u need to start off with clean stuff
I am new to the trailer world. I cannot believe these are designs this way.........I'm sure the most recent models aren't but I cannot believe the amount of caulk and upkeep needed to keep these things water tight. Talk about poor engineering and design. I cannot imagine the time, effort and cost it would take to reseal and entire RV. My mind is blown.
Welcome to the world of RV`s where the only priority in manufacturing is the speed in which the RV can be completed. Also the engineering is quite bad at best and sometimes horrible. The use the cheapest fixtures and connections throughout and they simply don`t last. If you own an RV - be prepared to learn to fix all kinds of problems. Examples: your propane regulator near the tanks will fail after 5 to 7 years or sooner causing partial or total loss of propane to the stove and heaters. You can get a loss of electricity over the kitchen sink outlet only to find after several hours searching that the Ground Fault on the outlet in the bathroom had tripped and they are connected somehow. The roof requires an annual cleaning - inspection and application of PROPER sealant at any sign of cracking or deterioration. That being said there is a wonderful socialization effect that occurs at any campsite and the friendships made are priceless.
The absolute truth...these are junk..this is why people are converting aluminum cargo trailers. Luan, garden hose and glue. The bonus ...worthless in 10 years
Henry's product is NOT (just) asphalt based (04:09). Mis-info is worse than no info!
Henry makes literally dozens of coating and sealing products. I am researching the silicon coatings being offered by all of the big name RV maintenance product suppliers.
Need to find:
What type of primer is suggested and how to determine need.
Can it go over existing sealants/caulks. Specific caulk/sealants are made for (after/subsequent) later. Can that sealant be used against standard RV type plastics, fitting, windows, etc...
Can you buy these calking at home depot?
No. RV Stores or Amazon
Always clean from the bottom up! If you get those “clean streaks” on a dirty wall, you will NEVER get them off!
The reflection in your sunglasses says there is no one standing around laughing at you about a bucket, just your camera and tripod. Maybe the camera's name is Chris?
My wife Kris is farther than the reflection shows in the background😀
@@AllAboutRVs Good to know! I was worried about you for a minute! :)
Dicor will dry and crack. Why can't you use 100% silicone?
Silicone won't last as long as Dicor.
You don’t use dicor on side seams roof only the caulk was to be flexible you guys need to quit listening to some body who thinks they know what is best I am a rv tech of 20+ years you use a good grade of silicone and it will last 4 to years if done properly that being said you still inspect all your seams and roof yearly
@@donaldschultheiss4035 Proflex for side seams
Sharon oddlyenough unless you really know what you are doing I don’t recommend proflex I have used it before but I find it really sticky for my taste I prefer temper 645 caulk
That’s tempro 645 that’s what the oems use
I am subscribed to your other channel, now to this one. Keep having fun.
+Idaho Rider thanks!
RVs top is piling off 1985 pace arrow sorry can't spell do I use what on top 2 cover all of it
Thanks for update
Great video, but not sure you should be rubbing your thumb in mineral spirits. It's a solvent! :)
I thought the video was about fixing a leaky roof just wasted part of my life watching this
Less blah blah and more action please
You need to do some research , Dicor products are complete junk .
Wearing flip-flops while working on an RV roof is crazy stupid dangerous.
You talk too much, there's no info on how to actually fix a leak in this video